MECHANICAL SUPPORT

MSF-H 2005
This guideline is based on the original from Benoit Dal, MSF-Logistique.

“SHAURI YA MUNGU”(Swahili for “God’s Advice” - and by default ‘God’s Problem’)

‘Shauri ya Mungu’ is one of many cultural themes in civilizations that for centuries have
had to cope with mass famines, and the insecurity posed by regular drought and conflict.
Something of a fatalistic cultural perspective they help populations cope with and
rationalise catastrophes. In MSF all spiritual and sensitive belief system(s) must be
respected and accommodated. However these belief systems have evolved over the
centuries and are at the other end of scientific rationalism and technical methodology in
the human thought process. There are many variations across different cultures and as
such the MSF Logistician needs to be aware of this cultural theme and to bridge it with
the help, knowledge, and support of his/her local staff. Failing to so when working with
the detailed scientific method employed in vehicle maintenance can be very frustrating
and also dangerous. It applies to all areas of technical support and can result in damage
being overlooked, caused, and explained. An inexperienced Logistician can easily fall into
the many traps that this type of cultural divide presents.

In MSF while we understand and respect different cultural and spiritual beliefs, there
can be no place for a “Shauri ya Mungu” philosophy in the organisation’s mechanical
culture.
Remember the most significant cause for injuries and death in MSF operations are
vehicle related. It is therefore critical for the Logistician to remove poor vehicle
maintenance at all cultural/spiritual levels from this terrible equation.

‘Shauri ya Mungu’ does not accommodate the future, as it is in a way, a survival mechanism
designed to cope with the dire problems of today – God looks after the future and God
will find away to deal with the well chiselled and rounded sump plug as it was ‘God’s
problem’ that the sump plug spanner could not be found. The way to bridge this cultural
and technical divide is by respecting and understanding it - yet keeping a very close
eye on attention to detail. It means keeping a close monitor of all maintenance, daily
checks, educating and skilling staff, and employing the right people.

“HAKUNA MUTATA”
This means nothing is wrong – in order to keep it that way here is some very
important in field mechanical wisdom.

Any faults, vibrations, different noises should be investigated as soon as possible

even if the driver does not consider it a problem. If a potential problem is detected
and this requires expert mechanical advice from MSF support, please provide details -
the sound, vibration, location, type of vehicle performance, its intermittence, the when,
where, and how. You must supply as much information as you can…….. Without attention
to detail - ‘Hakuna mutata’ can turn very quickly into a very big problem.

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 CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION p5

OPERATING PRINCIPLES p6

AIR SUPPLY p9

FUEL SUPPLY
Injection pump p14
Tank p15
Fuel filtering p18
Fuel solenoids p19
Pre-heating p21
Fuel supply diagnosis p22
Smoke guide p25

TIMING p27

COOLING
Operation p29
Thermostat p30
Coolant p32
Water pump p33
Radiator p33

LUBRICATION
Principle p38
Oil filter p39
Enigine oil p41

TRANSMISSION
Clutch system p44
Gearbox p47
Transfer gearbox p48
Differentials p50
Drive shafts p51
Axles p53
Wheel hubs p56

BRAKES
Principle p57
Master cylinder p57
Brake tubing p58
Drum brakes p59
Hand brake p63
Disc brakes p64

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TYRES
General comments p66
Structure p67
Load and speed ratings p67
Profiles and treads p68
Tyre pressures p70
Tyre wear p70

SUSPENSION
Leaf spring suspension p72
Coil spring suspension p75
Shock absorbers p77
Axle bump stops p78
Stabilising bars (anti-roll) p79

STEERING Principle p82

Steering wheel play p83
Steering shock absorber p86
State of steering knuckle bearings p87

ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT
Batteries p88
Alternator p90
Headlights p90

CHASSIS AND BODYWORK p93

CONCLUSION p94

ANNEXES
Workshop design and safety p94
Fuel management p98

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 INTRODUCTION

This document is a guide which aims to provide the MSF logistician on mission
with basic knowledge on managing and monitoring the maintenance of Toyota
Landcruisers. It is not a mechanical thesis but simply an aide-memoire of the
basic principles required to make it easier to supervise, manage and task the
vehicle’s driver and any local mechanic.

Why do we maintain the vehicles? Because this requires a minimal mechanical

resource and infrastructure eg. parts, tools and skills. It is better, simpler and more
efficient to maintain than to repair. Mechanical surgery is expensive, time
consuming, and often in the field the skills, the clean conditions, and specialist tools
do not exist.

PREVENTION therefore is better than CURE.

Additionally the vehicles the Logistician is responsible for are critical to mission
performance, security and safety.

This text supplements the Toyota technical documents (repair manuals). It does not
aspire to replace them but simply to amplify them in reference to the specific MSF
field requirements.

This document does not fully address concepts of fleet management nor driver and
mechanic team management. It is essentially the technical guide for supervisors,
drivers and mechanics to ensure proper maintenance and vehicle safety. The guide
therefore supports field performance and security.

Remember that a simple, and easily avoidable breakdown can put a team
member at some considerable risk, particularly if they are stranded in a
dangerous environment after dark.

The specific features of 4-wheel driving are addressed in another document.

WARNING, throughout the document, this symbol indicates precautions to be taken.

Reference documents:

- MSF order sheets for Toyota parts

- The Toyota owner’s manual
- Logbook
- Toyota repair manuals

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OPERATING PRINCIPLES
The Diesel Landcruiser engine’s operation cycle takes place in 4 phases/strokes
therefore the engine is commonly known as the Diesel 4 stroke internal combustion
engine. There are other engine types, but for the purpose of this guide we won’t go
down that complicated path.
The Landcruiser 6 cylinder engine is just that. It comprises 6 cylinders each with a
piston, and a set of intake and exhaust valves, each piston is in turn attached via a
rod and a bearing to a rotating crankshaft which in turn is attached to a
synchronised gear that operates the valves and an oil pump at the fore end, and
through the rear end to the clutch and gearbox which deliver the engines energy as
drive to the wheels. It is through this mechanical process that the thermal energy
of an engine (eg a piston fired down a barrel like a bullet in a gun) is converted into
the kinetic energy that drives the Landcruiser along the road. It is a very fine
precision mechanical system machined to the nth degree. It is fully coordinated and
balanced to the point where no 2 pieces of metal rub together. All moving parts in
the engine system are separated by the pressurised lubrication oil, without this
separation the Landcruiser engine by virtue of the friction and energy displaced will
self destroy. It is imperative therefore that all internal working parts of the
Landcruiser engine are kept clean through a regime of filters and regular oil
changes, as the oil itself breaks down under stress, becomes thinner, loses
efficiency and over time chemically decomposes with some acidic properties.

A description of the engine’s operational cycle is as follows :

1- A piston descends down a barrel initially serving as a pump sucking in air through
its intake valve that has been mechanically synchronised through the timing gear and
belt to open as the piston descends.
2- The crankshaft continues to turn, the piston goes back up and at the same time
the intake valve closes: this is the compression stroke (the air is compressed). The
temperature of this air rises as it is compressed. A throttle calibrated quantity of
diesel is injected at a very precise moment at the end of this the compression
stroke (when the piston reaches top dead centre - TDC). The quantity injected
determines the engine power/speed. When the driver presses the accelerator pedal

6
the quantity of diesel is determined according to the work load required. In an
ascent, for example, more power is necessary and therefore more diesel is sprayed.
The Injector sprays so that the diesel homogenises into a highly combustible mix
with the air in the combustion chamber volume. Heat+fuel+oxygen are the three
parameters necessary for combustion.
3- This combustion produces a strong rise in pressure and pushes the piston
downwards. This is the productive/power stroke.
4- The piston descends and once it reaches bottom its exhaust valve opens to
evacuate the residual pressure from the burnt gas; the piston then goes back up,
continuing to push the burnt gas outside. And as it comes back down the cycle starts
again.

A full cycle completes 2 crankshaft rotations (the piston rises, descends and goes
back up), twice 360° therefore. All the power strokes are staggered for an engine
with six cylinders: when one cylinder is idle, another is in compression phase at the
same time. This keeps the engine balanced with a relatively smooth power delivery

This operational engine cycle requires a number of support systems/circuits to make

it function and improve its energy efficiency:

Ø The injection system which sprays diesel accurately at the correct moment -
this is the fuel supply/injection circuit.

Ø A system to synchronise valve opening and closing at the correct moment: this
is called the timing cycle.

Ø The combustion produces not only energised pressure but also heat – the heat
cannot be allowed to build up otherwise terminal piston meltdown or engine
seizure occurs. The heat therefore must be transferred/conducted away from
the engine once the engine begins to exceed a safe pre designated operational
temperature. This is when the cooling system (only part of which is the
radiator) steps in.

Ø The parts are moving (some very rapidly) and are subjected to high
temperatures. Moving parts generate friction, heat, and abrasion. Therefore a
pressurised lubricating system delivers oil under pressure to all moving parts
in an engine. The oil’s viscosity (thickness) virtually removes friction and as a
liquid it does not compress there by lifting and separating all the moving metal
parts. The internal moving engine parts literally ‘float’ on pressurised oil.

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 BEAR IN MIND THE FOLLOWING PEARLS OF MECHANICAL WISDOM:

1. THE BEST MECHANIC AN ENGINE CAN HAVE IS GOOD CLEAN

ENGINE OIL.

2. A COOL ENGINE (WITHIN ITS OPERATIONAL PARAMETERS) IS AN

EFFICIENT ENGINE - A HOT ENGINE IS TROUBLE LOOKING FOR
SOMEWHERE TO HAPPEN.

3. ONE KILOMETRE OF DIRT ROAD GENERATES THE EQUIVALENT WEAR

AND TEAR OF 100 KILOMETRES OF BITUMEN ROAD.

4. 2000 REVOLUTIONS A MINUTE IS JUST THAT. IT IS THE NORMAL

WORKLOAD FOR AN ENGINE. TRY COUNTING TO 2000 IN A MINUTE
OVER A TEN YEAR PERIOD WHILE JOGGING FOR 200,000
KILOMETRES. - AND YOU WILL STILL BE NO WHERE NEAR TO
UNDERSTANDING HOW HARD AN ENGINE WORKS.

5. LIKE YOUR BODY, THE ENGINE IS A SYSTEM OF MOVING PARTS

POWERED BY FUEL AND KEPT ALIVE WITH CARE AND
COMMONSENSE.

6. LIKE YOUR PARTNER WHEN YOUR VEHICLE IS KNOCKING AT YOU

FOR ATTENTION – IT IS ALREADY EXPENSIVELY TOO LATE.
PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE IS THE BEST POLICY.

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AIR SUPPLY
Air filter

The air filter retains all the abrasive material such as dust and sand. For example,
without a filter, the engine will suck in directly any dust created by a vehicle you are
following.

In fact, the sucked air flow is firstly rotated upstream of the filter. Large
impurities and water stick to the internal casing wall through centrifugal force and
fall into a small cup located beneath this casing.

The air then passes through the filtering element which traps the finer particles.

As an indication of the volume of air that has to be filtered, a 6 cylinder Diesel Land
Cruiser will consume approximately 4.2 cubic metres a minute at 2000 rpm.

How do you mainta in an a ir filter?

A simple clean is to hold the filter vertically like a wheel and simultaneously tap and
rotate it so that any trapped dust falls out.

In extreme conditions, on sandy ground and/or if the driver is following other

vehicles, he should take the filter out and tap it with his hand every morning to clean
it. Advise him to do this.

Every week, as part of the weekly check, the driver has to clean the air filter from
the inside out, ideally with a blow gun. Otherwise the filter can be washed in water .

CAUTION! THE AIR GUN SHOULD BE KEPT AT LEAST 50 MM FROM THE

PAPER SURFACE TO PREVENT DAMAGING THE ELEMENT.

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DUST WILL FLY IN ALL DIRECTIONS! PROTECT THE EYES!!

ALWAYS CHECK THE FILTER FOR TEARS-ANY VISIBLE HOLES RENDER IT

USELESS!

If the filter is a yellow type as supplied by MSF Europe and is printed with the
appropriate instructions, it may be cleaned with water at each regular service. If
the filter is an orange type as supplied by Toyota, no attempt should be made to
wash it.

Using a soft cloth, clean the inside of the filter case taking note that any particles
left in the centre of the casing will be ingested by the engine. Also release the
spring clips to remove and clean the lower cup if necessary.

Reassemble the cup, filter, and cover being careful to ensure that each part is
correctly positioned. No undue force should be necessary to close the clips. Tighten
the wing nut with fingers only, making sure that rubber seal is intact.

Finally, the filter should be cleaned with water at each service according to the
instructions on the filter itself (see photo). Though it can be washed, it remains a
consumable.

Is it possible for the a ir filter not to la st very long in extreme conditions of

use?

A filter should last for at least 25,000 kms in arduous conditions but should be
replaced every 50,000 kms even if used in good conditions. ALWAYS HAVE A SPARE
STOCK OF FILTERS!

If the air filter clogs up, a large depression can cause it to collapse. Paper, dust and
other material then gets into the engine and ‘dusts’ it. This will reduce performance
and increases diesel and oil consumption irreversibly. Repair requires major
mechanical surgery and is demanding in terms of money, time and skill.

10
 To prevent this, there is a small indicator lamp in the instrument panel that lights
up and warns of the danger should there be too great a depression inside the
housing. This indicator lamp (see diagram below) is located to the left of the 4-wheel
drive selection button. Warning - the location varies on different models of Toyota
4-wheel drive vehicles.
FUEL SUPPLY
Principle
A diesel engine fuel supply comprises a supply pump which sucks up the fuel
contained in the tank. This fuel is filtered and the water in suspension is eliminated
via a water trap. This takes place before the diesel reaches the engine.
The injection pump comprises the pump itself, the regulator and the supply pump.
The engine-driven injection pump compresses the diesel and distributes it into the
piping supplying the injection nozzles. The injection nozzles spray diesel into the
cylinders at a precise moment in the engine operation cycle.

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 A point of mechanical wisdom - There is little more critical to the reliable
operation of a diesel engine than good quality clean fuel. Being able to obtain this
and ensuring that it is not compromised between purchase and use is far more
effective than depending on the vehicle safety systems to ensure reliability of
operation. Make sure the vehicle goes to the fuel drum and not the drum to the
vehicle. The movement of the drum will mix up any sedimentation at the base of the
drum. (See the Fuel Management sheet at Annexe).

When you take fuel from barrels ; use the fuel pump station as supplied by
MSF

When you suspect fuel to be contaminated with water: use a water

seperating funnel (TVEAFUNNMAG)

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Injection pump
This is the very expensive heart of the diesel engine.
The injection pump must inject the correct quantity of diesel at the right moment
with sufficient pressure to overcome the pressure in the combustion chamber, up to
90 bar). To do this, it has to spray the diesel finely at an injection pressure of 150
to 180 bar.

To achieve these pressures, the pump has a piston which oscillates 6,000 times a
minute at 2,000 rpm, for a 6-cylinder engine. This requires mechanically perfect
tightness by the pump’s internal elements which are machined with an operational
play of less than 0.0025 mm.
Foreign bodies or dust entering the injection system cause rapid and abnormal wear,
in other words an increase in operational play. The required injection pressures (150
to 180 bar) are no longer achieved. Under these circumstances spraying and also
combustion are reduced in quality and starting the engine becomes very difficult.

These high-precision mechanics suggests that an injection pump can only be repaired
in very clean specialised workshops.

An new injection pump costs some $1500, including the discounts MSF obtains from
Toyota. Otherwise it is very much more expensive. Be carefull and check
beforehand the quality of local repairs on an injection pump.

In practical terms, the most significant, yet easiest precaution to take is to fuel our
vehicles with very good quality diesel. This can be a major concern for MSF
personnel in charge of vehicles in the field (refer to Annex “Fuel Management”??).

When arriving in a country on mission, it is important to be sure about fuel quality.

As a priority, make sure that:

- the fuel supplies are of good quality (no water, settling, storing, filtering)
before filling up;

- the equipment is in good condition as intended by the manufacturer (tanks,

filters).

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Tank
This is constructed from thin steel plate with its internal walls treated against
corrosion. It has a filling spout and a drain cock. Inside, the tank is divided into
several sections by baffles which serve to deaden diesel frothing during starting or
sudden halts of the vehicle.

Besides powering the engine, the fuel also lubricates and cools down the injection
pump. The engine only consumes one fifth of the diesel sucked in by the injection
pump. The surplus is returned to the tank. There is therefore inlet and outlet piping.

Impurities in the fuel can block the tank strainer. The end of the strainer is kept
away from the bottom of the tank to prevent water and sediment being sucked in.

How do you get rid of impurities covering the bottom of the tank?

Remove the tank and fill it with 4 to 5 litres of diesel fuel only and something hard
like small gravel, chain, etc. - but careful, not sand.

Shake it for several minutes before draining and repeat the operation several times
until you are certain that all the impurities have been lifted off. Ensure that
whatever has been used to clean the tank has been removed before re-
installation.

This is a very long operation which takes all day. Do not carry it out or have it
carried out if you are in a hurry.

If necessary, if the tank frequently has impurities, prevent the dirt from entering
the tank: indentify another supplier of better quality fuel or store/sediment an
filter the fuel yourself (see document “Fuel Management”).

15
Wha t else can ca use a tank to be filled with impurities?

Occasionally, certain dishonest drivers dismantle the filling piping above the wheel in
an attempt to steal fuel. This hose is very easy to dismantle and a garden hose can
be inserted and fuel siphoned off.

When diesel traces are found on this hose and it can be seen that it has been
dismantled, question the driver and make it quite clear to him that this must not
happen again. It is one way the tank can become contaminated.

CLEAN FUEL KEEPS THE VEHICLE OPERATING!

Wha t sha ll we do if we filled the ta nk with petrol instead of diesel?

CAUTION!

If the vehicule is inadvertently filled with petrol instead of diesel fuel, the tank(s)
must be completely drained and the fuel discarded before restarting the engine .
NEVER EVEN BEGIN TO CONSIDER THE POSSIBILITY OF MAYBE RUNNING A
DIESEL ENGINE USING PETROL AS A FUEL. THIS WILL RESULT IN THE
IMMEDIATE AND ABSOLUTE DESTRUCTION OF THE ENGINE!

However in cold countries when diesel starts to solidify it can be mixed with kerosene
at a mix ratio of 70% Diesel to 30% kerosene. See fuel management in the annexe.

Wha t sha ll we do when we run out of fuel?

Running out of fuel in a diesel engine vehicle can be problematic and may result in a
need to bleed parts of the fuel system before the engine will restart. The Landcruisers
have a manual pump integrated with one of the fuel filters the use of which in most
circumstances will be adequate to overcome the problem.

MSF Landcruisers are fitted with two fuel tanks but it is necessary to manually switch
between these to maintain the fuel supply. A switch for this purpose is mounted on the
dash. Remind inexperienced drivers not to run out of fuel. Once the fuel supply has
been restored either by the use of this switch or by refilling the tank, a short attempt
can be made to directly restart the engine. If it will not restart, operate the small
handpump on top of the fuel filter untill pumping becomes heavier.

IT IS FAR MORE SENSIBLE TO OPERATE THE MANUAL PUMP THAN TO

DISCHARGE THE BATTERIES TRYING TO START AN ENGINE THAT IS
RECEIVING NO FUEL

If after restoring the supply and operating the manual pump, the engine will still not
start after some attempts, it is very possible that the perceived lack of fuel was
actually not the cause of the engine failing and alternative faults should be considered
like clogged fuel filter(s).

16
Ca n a dented ta nk ca use a problem?

Continued shocks can cause the fuel gauge to break and supply incorrect information.
It may occasionally be necessary to repair it.

Watch out, however, for ill-equipped and unskilled local repairers: even when the
tank appears empty, there is still risk of explosion for fuel vapours remain.

Ask a specialised sub-contractor to perform the operation or replace the tank.

In some conditions, gravel or small stones can enter between the tank straps
and the tank. If they are not removed, they will finally pierce the tank. Check
this periodically.

Why has the manufacturer included an indica tor lamp for water in the diesel?

Water from condensation is naturally present in diesel.

When the tank is not full, a large amount of air is found above the level of the
diesel. The air contains humidity which condenses on the tank’s internal walls when
the temperature drops (in the night).

Ensure that both tanks (If fitted) are used in rotation to keep the system clean, and
are filled to the top each night to avoid the humidity condensing into droplets of
water thereby contaminating the diesel in the tank. In time this will lead to rust
scaling creating a further impurity.

As the water is heavier than the diesel, it accumulates at the bottom of the tank.
In the long term it may cause the tank to rust inside, this runs the risk of clogging
filters and piping in turn causing the engine functional problems.

How ca n we a void condensation as much a s possible?

Ideally, fill the tank s up every evening. Always make sure that both fuel tanks on the

17
 cars are filled and use them alternatively.

What is the problem encountered with the fixing stra ps on the a uxilia ry ta nk?

Unlike the 75 model Land cruiser, where there were few problems, the 78 has
several. The straps are placed under tremendous stress when the terrain is in a bad
state: the weight of the full tank (90 litres) pulls on the straps substantially. The
manufacturer, Toyota, has reduced the length and thickness of the straps when
changing from the model 75 to the 78.
Toyota has reintroduced the “good straps” on all its vehicles after June 2002.
For 78 vehicles prior to this date, check the straps regularly and re-order them if
necessary.

Fuel filtering
The internal working components of injector equipment are manufactured to
tolerances in the order of 2.5 microns or 0.0025 mm., which is considerably more
accurate than is required in the manufacture of watches.
Engine performance can be seriously compromised by impurities or water in the
diesel. The manufacturer has therefore installed a diesel pre-filter and filter
between the tank and the injection pump.

18
MSF-H installs an extra fuel filter. This filter is the third one and the last one before
the fuel goes to the injection pump. The filter should be only replaced at 50.000 Km.
Spare filters should not be needed as four replacement filters are sent with each vehicle,
catering for 200.000 Km.

How does a filter work?

The diesel passes through the middle then downwards into the bottom and rises
inside the accordion (the paper filtering element which catches all the impurities).

However, water does pass through this accordion/filter element. The manufacturer
has therefore included a water trap system.

As water is denser than the fuel, it tends to settle on the bottom of the filter
canister in a water trap tank.

The manufacture has provided a floater which triggers a mechanism when

there is too much water: an indicator lamp (see diagram) and a beep indicate
that there is water in the filter.

If the water filter alert is activated stop the vehicle immediately and
drain the filter water trap. CAUTION! The engine must be turned off to
perform this operation!

19
 At every C-service, check that the warning lamp and buzzer are functioning
correctly, for if there is too much water in the fuel, the injection pump could be
damaged when the water sedimenter tank is full.

Should precautions be ta ken when fitting the filter?

Absolutely, the level contact switch wire tends to snap easily. To avoid this problem,
disconnect this cable before fitting the filter. It is advisable to check that the lamp
is functioning correctly and that its cable has integrity at each service.

Ca n filters be purcha sed loca lly?

Buy original spares even if they are more expensive. Fake parts can damage your
vehicle. Be very careful that a local distributor is not supplying fakes. Should
the part be out of stock, always have the original quality part for comparison
purposes. Learn to recognise original. Under no circumstances should you run out of
stock of fuel filters.

Fuel solenoids

Fuel solenoids can malfunction due to dirt or just because. They are meant to
switch from the main (front) tank to the rear tank. There are two solenoids: one for the
fuel going to the engine and one for the return. The main one is the one likely to fail after
some years of service.

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Pre-heating

When starting an diesel engine from cold, air compression is not enough in some
cases to raise its temperature to a point where the injected diesel self ignites. For
this reason glow plugs must be used. They are fed by electric current and heat the
combustion chamber before the starter is activated. This allows the compressed air
to reach a high-enough temperature to cause combustion.
The pre-heating lamp on the dashboard tells the driver that the engine is ready to
be started. At this moment, the light goes out.

What a re the symptoms of defective glow plugs?

Anomalies with the glow plugs or the glowplug relay could be suspected if you have
difficulty starting from cold and none from hot. You feel that the engine is having
difficulty starting as not all the diesel injected burns.
Starting will take longer and the engine will “knock” and shake when starting, it
smokes more than usual and then the disturbances disappear.

How to test the glowplug relay?

Take a booster cable; connect it to the + pole of the battery and hold the other side
on the top connector of one of the glow-plugs (take off the plastic cap). Take care
not to touch the engine with the booster cable as this will spark! Start the engine
directly afterwards. If the engine starts O.K. after this procedure, the glowplug
relay is defective.

How do you test the glow plugs?

It could be that one or more glow plugs are defective. They can can be tested with
an electric tester (Resistance almost 0 Ohms = O.K.).

How often a re the glow plugs replaced?

When they fail!
As long as they are working, do nothing. Unlike petrol engine spark plugs which are
replaced regularly.

Do all six glow plugs have to be changed if there is a problem with one?
No. However, the others have perhaps become weaker and will no doubt need
changing later on.

Must the engine be pre- hea ted if it is a lrea dy warm?

No, only when it does not start quickly enough it should be pre-heated.

The engine does not start good, even when already warm
The possible cause here is most likely a worn out injection pump (the hydrolic head);
When this is the case, the engine will run normally but will have difficulties starting,
even when hot.

21
Fuel Supply diagnosis

You should diagnose when there is a problem with a vehicle. Some implicate the
injection pump directly. Before that, check the following points:

- the supply circuit pipes are not blocked or kinked and that there is adequate
fuel in the tank. Never run a tank dry as this will ensure any impurities will enter the
system, and that the fuel system may need to have the air lock in the pipe bled of
- state of the filters
- injection circuit cleaner
- injection nozzles
- fuel solenoids
This avoids ordering an injection pump for a simple hose problem.

What does one look for firstly in the circuit?

Look at the entire supply circuit. Watch out for the air intakes, diesel leaks, the
tank filter screen and pinched piping. The roads are strewn with waste (wood &
rocks) which may damage the piping underneath the cars…

How do you tell whether there is a diesel leak?

Traces of damp on the connections is a good indicator of leaking diesel.

How do you check the sta te of the piping a nd the filter screen?

Disconnect the diesel intake pipe in the pre-filter and blow into it. If you can hear
bubbles in the tank, the circuit is intact. If not, start the operation again by
checking the ducting leading to the tank as far as the pinch.

If the circuit is inta ct, wha t do you do?

Start by replacing the pre-filter and the diesel filter.

Better prevent?

As you know, prevention is better than cure! A simple solution to problems like heavy
smoke is to add a cleaning additive into the injection circuit. This detergent can be
found on the order database. There are two ways of using it:

Curative method: disconnect the filter from the circuit and plunge the
suction tube into the additive drum. Then
start the engine which will suck in pure additive
in a few minutes.

Preventive method: pour the additive dose into the full tank. It is
advisable to perform this operation once a
year.

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And wha t about the injection nozzles?

A malfunctioning injection nozzle can be a cause of the problem. The injection nozzle
is of course the spraying element. In other words, the injection nozzle opens at a
certain pressure and closes at another.

The injection nozzle can clog or the needle can get stuck depending on the fuel
quality. It can be unclogged using the above-mentioned additive. If that does not
help, replacement is the only option left.

Ca n injection nozzles be purcha sed “ loca lly” ?

No if cleaning does not fix the problem, do not buy the nozzles only; have the
complete injectors overhauled (nozzle replacement and adjustment of opening
pressure) at a specialised workshop. Or order the complete injector through the
MSF supply system. Do not forget to replace the copper seal in the cylinder head
when replacing the injector.

Where do you disma ntle an injection nozzle?

At its base. Firstly remove the injection pipes.

If you suspect a defective injection

nozzle, for example the engine is firing
on five cylinders instead of six, you can
decide which it is by loosening each fuel
inlet in turn to see if the engine speed
changes (see photo). Everything is alright
if the engine speed changes during this
loosening process. When a loud knock is
present and the knock disappears when
one fuel inlet is loosened, you know that
that nozzle needs replacement.

If the engine speed does not change,

however, you can assume the injection
nozzle you have just loosened is defective
and remove it. Of course, all the
preceding precautions (additive cure)
should have been taken previously.

23
Can you add shims to repair an injec tion nozzle.

Not without having performed a true diagnosis. We have seen people changing the
“injection nozzle tip” in the field without having the necessary skills to adjust it
correctly. And as they did not have the right shims, they replaced all the injection
nozzle tips, whereas the problem lay elsewhere, with the nozzle holder.

You need to be a mechanic to totally dismantle and reassemble everything to clean

an injection nozzle and then special equipment (a pump to compress the diesel, etc.).

As a general rule, when faced with an injection nozzle problem, you must change the
defective injection nozzle/nozzle holder assembly. Manuals showing you how to do
this are found in the cars.

If you stil encounter problems, having checked all the before mentioned points, you
can suspect the injection pump. In this case, contact the Technical Manager in your
section.

24
Fault finding smoke guide

Bla ck smoke
A little black smoke, especially on full throttle, is acceptable. On higher altitudes it might
worsen. Under normal circumstances it indicates poor combustion and could be the result
of a number of faults:

• Dirty fuel flow : check and replace the fuel filter(s).

• Dirty Fuel nozzles or injector pump. – It is not recommended that these items are
disassembled in the field as it is very difficult to maintain a clean environment.
Instead use fuel additives such as “diesel fuel clean” in a high dosis (even pure!) to
clean out the system.
• Possibility of a blocked air filter – check and clean as required.
• Dirty piston rings: clean them with an additive like “engine flush” to clean the engine.
After using this type of additive, the engine oil must be replaced immediately!
If black smoke continues, it will result in black sludge (thickening of the engine oil).

Blue- white smoke

Blue-white smoke may be noticed at engine start-up whether the engine is at normal
operating temperature or not. Blue-white smoke can be observed at all ambient
temperatures and should not last longer than a minute or two after the vehicle has been
driven. If you see continuous Blue-white smoke while driving, then you probably have air
being sucked into the fuel system.

White smoke

White smoke and blue-white smoke share some of the same characteristics. White
smoke is fuel not being burned. One (unlikely) cause of this could be incorrect injection
pump timing. Coolant getting into the combustion chamber can cause white smoke also.
Possible causes are blown head gaskets, cracked heads cavitation, etc.

Blue smoke

Blue smoke is not normal and you do not want to be driving behind a truck that
produces it. Blue smoke occurs when oil is entering the combustion chamber and is burning
along with the fuel. Blue smoke usual indicates a condition which should be corrected
a.s.a.p. Blue smoke also smells like oil burning. Possible causes include valve seals or
cracked piston rings.

25
TIMING
Principle
Timing is the system for controlling the opening and closing of the valves at the
appropriate moment along with the synchronisation/rotation of the injection pump.

In a breakdown, the timing synchronisation is lost: the system which controls the
valve opening and closing has lost synchronisation with the crankshaft. This means
that the piston rises when one of the valves is still open. The valve can then bend
whilst the piston breaks…

A key reason that can cause this problem is a worn, defective, or perished timing
belt. Check it every 50.000 Km according to the logbook.

A timing belt costs €30 maximum whilst an engine overhaul if the belt breaks can
cost several thousand euros.

This means that belts must be kept in stock and that they must be changed by
genuine professionals, as the timing must be correctly synchronised.

How to change a belt is described in the engine manuals. There is in addition an

engine manual specific to post-May 1998 vehicles. Everything remaining unchanged
can be found in the previous manuals (pre-May 1998).

Timing belt

26
The timing belt is a consumable.

On our standard 1HZ engine vehicles, the timing belt can be fitted in two different
ways:

The engine changes can be seen on the housing from outside. The assembly, belt,
tensioning pulley, casing and seal are different after May 1998.

Screw-mounted casing, post-May 98 for Clip-mounted casing, pre-May 98 for HZJ

HZJ 75/78/79 75

When cha nging the timing belt, must the a ncilla ry pa rts (tensioning pulley ,
spring) a lso be cha nged?

No, not for the old models where preventative replacement is foreseen at 100.000
Km. It is essential to check the state of the tensioning pulley bearing, in other
words make sure that it turns consistently, without noise (a rough feeling rumble or
squeak) and without catching. Do replace the tensioner as a preventative measure at
150.000 Km.

If you suspect tension pulley bearing wear before reaching 150.000 Km, replace it
directly.

For the newer models (after may ’98), the timing belt preventative replacement is
foreseen at 150.000 Km and replacement of the tension pulley bearing is mandatory
at the same time!

A seized tensioning pulley can cause the belt to break immediately. If not
checked on a regular basis this is one area where you can have a diesel engine failure
with no warning

Wha t is bad for rubber a nd the timing belt in general?

Grease, oil, diesel, etc.

27
If ever there is oil on the belt following a n oil lea k, the belt must be cha nged or
it will perish . Make sure that the leak has been stopped. It is good mechanical
wisdom for the logistician to check the quality of the timing belt and the tensioner
every 50.000 Km.

Any seepage or leaking onto the belt is unacceptable. The perishing of an oil infected
timing belt can be very rapid causing it to stretch and snap with little to no warning.

Should the belt be cha nged every 1 00, 000 km?

Indeed, the manufacturer’s manual recommends for the old models HZJ75,78,79 (up
to may ’98) that the timing belt is changed every 100,000 km.

For the newer models (after may ’98), the timing belt preventative replacement is
foreseen at 150.000 Km.

However, in extreme conditions conditions - the Congo and southern Sudan where
the average is 10 to 15 km per hour - we can reduce this delay and change the timing
belt every 80,000 km.

Update the logbook with all events and paint on the timing belt cover: “timing belt
replaced at XXX,XXX kms”.

Must the belt be ta ut?

No, only when being replaced and following the indications in the Toyota Workshop
manual.

Under no circumstances should this tensioner be operated manually or with a tool

which otherwise risks premature belt wear and damage to the injection pump.

28
Cooling circuit
Principle
The engine burns fuel in the cylinders to convert thermal energy into kinetic energy.
However, only 25% of this thermal energy is used in work actually performed, 45% is
lost in exhaust gases and 30% is absorbed by the engine.

The calories absorbed by the engine must be dissipated otherwise the engine will
overheat and may seize up.

A cooling circuit is therefore built into the engine to maintain the internal
temperature constant.

This circuit comprises a water pump, radiator, thermostat (or heatstat), fan and
hoses through which the coolant flows.

Operation

The coolant is circulated by the water pump. When the engine is cold, the coolant is
also cold and the thermostat is closed.

The system is designed to bring the engine up to an optimum operational

temperature rapidly to reduce wear and then to maintain this temperature. In the
initial stages of warm up the coolant therefore takes the bypass hose towards the
cylinder head and returns immediately to the water pump.

29
As the engine temperature rises, the thermostat opens and the bypass closes,
thereby blocking the short ‘warm up’ bypass circuit.

The coolant, heated by the engine, is then directed to the radiator where it is
cooled through the radiator fins by transference of the heat to the air forced
through the radiator by the fan or by the natural airflow from the movement. Once
cooled, the coolant is returned to the engine by the water pump.

Thermostat
The coolant temperature is ideally around 80 °C. The thermostat keeps the coolant
within this ideal temperature range.

How does the thermostat work?

The thermostat is controlled by a wax capsule. The volume of wax varies with the
temperature and this change in volume causes the thermostat valve to open or close.
The thermostat is marked with the temperature when opening commences, for
example 78°C.

Why do thermosta ts show different temperatures?

It depends on the vehicle: whether it is designed for tropical countries or European

countries. The opening is faster –at a lower temperature- in a vehicle designed for
hot countries.

Wha t happens if you remove the thermostat?

In the Landcruiser engine the bypass circuit still remains open, the coolant does not
circulated enough in the engine. This results in the engine overheating abnormally.
A mechanical phenomenon is found frequently in West Africa and other hot parts of
the world, where many people believe that the engine cools better without the
thermostat. While this was the case with engines built EARLY LAST CENTURY with
a single effect thermostat.

Under no circumstances allow the thermostat to be removed from a modern

Landcruiser engine – or any modern engine for that matter. In the case that the
thermostat would fail, just remove the inner part (with force) or force the valve
open an insert an object (bolt) to prevent it from closing.

Wha t is the difference between a single- effect thermosta t and a dua l- effect
thermosta t?

Firstly, our standard vehicles are fitted with a dual-effect thermostat.

As illustrated in the next drawing, a modern thermostat -when it has reached its
opening temperature- opens at the bottom whilst closing simultaneously at the top.
The coolant is therefore then forced to pass through the radiator. The single-
effect thermostat functions like a single simple valve which in ‘warm up’ just

30
obstructed the path to the radiator. There was no engine bypass. It is impossible to
know what kind of thermostat is installed just by looking, you need to understand
clearly the system and have the appropriate technical manuals.
How do you check a thermosta t?

How do you bleed a ir from the cooling system?

This is done automatically on our standard vehicles. Just make sure that the heating
lever in the cab is set to “warm”. This will enable the heater to be filled as well.

31
Coolant
The coolant carries away the surplus temperature.

Coolant properties:

- Lower freezing temperature

- Higher boiling temperature

- Good thermal conduction

- Lubricant (anti-corrosion)

- Scale preventive

- Leak preventer (blocks leaks using a coagulant)

- Electrolytic phenomenon preventive: different materials generate

magnetic fields that can be
dangerous thanks to the coolant
action itself. This liquid
therefore neutralises this
reaction.

Is the coolant a polluta nt?

Yes, very much so!

How do you a void pollution?

There is no need to replace it.

If it is necessary to drain the cooling system during disassembly, you should still be
able to recover the coolant for reuse after filtering - a coffee filter is ideal for
this.

Drain the coolant into a clean container to enable its return back into the
system.

Which type of coolant is used in the MSF vehicles?

The MSF vehicles are delivered with a permanent Toyota coolant, ready to use and
suitable for all terrains.

Can wa ter be added to the coola nt?

In general no, for water reduces the protection. In an emergency, when the cooling
circuit is leaking badly, you should obviously fix the fault temporarily by using water
instead of coolant. However, once back at base and as quickly as possible, drain the
circuit and fill it with proper coolant fluid.

32
 Wha t is the difference between a nti- freeze a nd coola nt?

Coolant is anti-freeze diluted with water.

How do you find this coola nt in the field?

Ready-to-use coolants can exist locally but check that they have all the properties
listed above.

If not, MSF also has 2 additives which should be diluted in demineralised water (rain
water, for example):

- Additive for hot countries. Dilute 1 litre in 10 litres of demineralised water. This
liquid has all the properties listed except anti-freeze.

- anti-freeze for cold countries which is diluted with water. With 60% anti-freeze,
the circuit is protected against freezing down to -40°C. Be careful never to use
more than 60% anti-freeze, otherwise you fall below the maximum protection
temperature.

Dilution % 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70%

Protection -15° -20° -30° -35° -40° -35°

temperature

How do you control the effectiveness of the a nti- freeze protection?

In the workshops an anti-freeze meter, available on the MSF order sheet, can be
used to measure the density of the coolant already present.

This anti-freeze meter is graduated in the protection temperatures directly, for

example -15°C. If you are expecting temperatures of -20°C or -30°C remove a little
coolant from the circuit before introducing pure anti-freeze additive and measure
again with the anti-freeze meter.

Water pump
The water pump is included to force coolant to circulate through the cooling system.
It is installed in front of the cylinder block and is driven by a belt. If this belt
breaks, the pump no longer circulates the coolant, the fan is not driven, heat is not
transferred and the engine will overheat. Stop and replace the belt.

Radiator
The coolant passes through a radiator fitted with a ‘honey comb’ of fins and pipes

33
(the loom) which then conducts the heat away from the coolant to the air blown
across them. This is the heat transference from coolant to the atmosphere –it
happens via the array of small pipes and thin fins in the radiator loom. In fact, a
radiator is a heat exchanger. As it descends in the radiator, the coolant loses its

heat little by little and its temperature drops.

As the cooler air passes through the fins the volume of air captures the heat and
this produces the heat exchange/transfer. The greater the air flow, the greater
the amount of heat transferred to the atmosphere.

When the speed of the vehicle is not sufficient to pass enough air through the
radiator to cool the liquid the fan installed behind the radiator continues to force
air through its core. This enables a vehicle to stand still with its engine running or as
with a Landcruiser moving through rough terrain slowly in low range and high engine
speed.

The speed of saloon cars allows sufficient air to pass through the “honeycomb”. One
motor-driven fan only starts up when the radiator temperature increases. This
motor-driven fan is controlled by a temperature switch.

Toyota Landcruisers are designed for more difficult conditions, with slower vehicle
speeds. The manufacturer has a thermostatic fluid coupling that links a very heavy
duty fan via a shaft to the engine driven coolant pump. When the thermostatic
coupling heats up, the fluid inside expands like a clutch and gradually locks the fan
to the driven shaft. This means that the heavy duty fan does not operate needlessly
when there is sufficient air going through the radiator.

When does the ra dia tor no longer bring the coola nt tempera ture down?

In muddy terrain the air will circulate less well if the radiator is blocked (by mud,
etc.). Watch out for dirt (gravel, insect, seeds, grasses) which may be sucked in and
could end up blocking the loom. Watch out for how the radiator is cleaned as the

34
loom is made out of soft metal to enhance heat transference. The use of a ‘Karcher’
(high-pressure washer), can bend the fins blocking up the loom thus preventing the
air flow. Therefore do not use a high-pressure washer on the radiator.

How do you clean a radia tor?

This is the driver’s job. Use water (not a high-pressure cleaner) and a soft brush. If
any fins in the radiator are bent, they should be bent back using a toothpick or the
like.

Do I ha ve to use the ra dia tor mosquito net?

The radiator mosquito net, an inexpensive material which is very efficient and easy
to install, can also be used to protect the radiator – particularly from the clogging of
insects. A swarm of mosquitoes can easily block a radiator without protection. If and
when this happens it is advisable to clean the radiator fins as soon as possible
before the insects dry and harden in the loom.

Should the hoses be inspected?

The hoses should be inspected at least every C-service.
Having looked for possible leaks, marked by corrosion near the leak, check for
cracking/crazing or any abnormal swelling on the cooling circuit hoses.
The hose should be replaced if you find any of these defects.

35
 Expansion of the coolant

As the temperature increases and the volume of coolant expands, pressure also rises
in the cooling circuit.

When this pressure exceeds a given value, a regulating valve in the radiator cap
opens and releases the excess liquid through the overflow piping.

It is therefore essential to respect the radiator cap references recommended by

the manufacturer, in other words the opening pressure. No wooden plugs instead of
the cap…

Operation of pressure regulating valve (when hot):

When the engine is switched off, the temperature of the liquid drops and a partial
vacuum forms in the radiator. A vacuum relief valve, also in the radiator cap, then
opens automatically and allows the coolant in the overflow to return to the radiator.

Operation of vacuum relief valve (when cold):

This assembly prevents coolant loss and the necessity of continuous liquid
replenishment in the circuit. The cooling circuit level is therefore inspected when
cold, in the morning before starting up, by transparency on the coolant recovery
reservoir (min.-max.).

If there is a leakage in the cooling system, the coolant recovery reservoir will stay
full (as there will be no vacuum when the engine cools down) and the cooling system
will become empty. It is therefore necessary to check the radiator every morning by

36
opening the cap; it should be completely full.

What should you do when the level drops below the minimum?

Top up the reservoir with coolant to raise it above the minimum level and below the
maximum.

When cold, the coolant level must always be below maximum.

If you find yourself topping up frequently, check for leaks in the circuit and that
the radiator cap is functioning properly. If in doubt replace the cap.

Wha t pa rts should be kept in stock?

The following parts should be stocked: thermostat, radiator cap, coolant, mosquito
netting, radiator hose clamps and fan belts. Check with spare part sheet?

What is the best belt tension?

Be careful not to over tension the fan belt. This can cause undue bearing wear at the
pump or alternator. A squealing bearing is indicative of either bearing wear or over
tension or both. The best tension is one where the belt just grips the pulleys with
out slippage on acceleration. A loose belt also has the potential to squeal and is fairly
obvious.

The gradual loss of battery power is also the result of a subtly loose belt – check it
before further diagnosis.

37
LUBRICATION

Principle
An engine is made up of numerous metal moving parts that are in contact with each
other. At start up, these parts rub against each other, causing loss of power and
wear and almost even seizing up. To counter these drawbacks, the moving parts are
oiled continuously. This is the role of the pressurised lubrication system.

It is mechanical wisdom to allow a powerful engine like the Landcruiser’s to run

at idle for at least 30 seconds when hot and a minute when cold before
engaging gear. Do not warm up the engine longer, this is an old habit that is
increasing wear!

The oil has 5 functions:

- It forms a film to prevent direct contact between the moving parts. It lubricates.

- It cools the engine parts from inside the engine.

- It provides sufficient seal between the pistons and the cylinders.

- It helps eliminate engine impurities, i.e. carbon particles, combustion residue. It is

a cleanser.

- It protects the parts against corrosion.

38
 An oil “radiator” – also called the oil cooler is included to keep the oil at a constant
temperature.

This radiator is hidden, it is internal and cannot be seen as it is more an oil/coolant

heat interchanger. The oil passes into a radiator whilst all around passes the coolant
whose role is to keep the oil temperature constant.

Oil filter
As it is used, the engine oil is gradually contaminated by metallic residues, carbon
particles and impurities. Parts lubricated with dirty oil wear abnormally fast which
results in a loss of capacity.

An oil filter is therefore installed in the lubrication circuit, to trap impurities in

suspension in the oil.

How does the oil filter work?

The oil enters via a non-return valve, passes into a paper accordion which traps any
particles and then the clean oil can be injected into the circuit. When the engine is
switched off, this valve keeps the lubrication circuit filled.

WARNING, this valve is not necessarily found on fake oil filters.

39
What is the second oil filter va lve used for?

After a while, when the filter is clogged by impurities, the oil no longer passes
through and the filter can burst under the pressure. The manufacturer has
therefore included a means of letting the oil through if the oil filter is not changed

40
 regularly. This is the bypass valve.

When the bypass valve opens, the oil passes through without being filtered and goes
directly to the engine.

This prevents the filter bursting, but in the long term causes rapid wear to the
engine parts. The oil filter should therefore be renewed periodically.

Engine oil
You can encounter a variety of abbreviations on an oil can. Here they are explained.

Wha t does S. A. E. mea n? Society of Automotive Engineers, these are

internationally-accepted standards.

S. A. E. offers a definition of viscosity.

What do SAE 40, SAE 5W40 and SAE 1 5W40 mean?

40 is a monograde, in other words an oil which can be used in a small temperature

spectrum. The multigrade oils (with a “W” between the two figures) can be used for
a wider temperature spectrum. For example, a 5W40 oil is used from -40 to +45°C.
There is even a 5w50 oil used throughout the world and in all extreme conditions of
temperature. The price varies radically depending on the size of the spectrum.

For MSF and regions like Afghanistan, with its very high summer-winter
temperature span (+35°C to -35°C), an oil like 15W40 is more than enough.

Monograde oils should be avoided in MSF missions.

Wha t does A. P. I. mea n?

API stands for American Petroleum Institute - it is a quality standard.

The three letters API are followed by 2 letters:

- the first gives the engine type: S for petrol and C for diesel.

- for the second letter, the closer to the end of the alphabet, the better the
quality.

E.g.: a diesel engine oil CD is better quality than CC. The highest current quality
is CI.

For gasoline engines the highest current specs. Are SM.

We recommend using CF for our diesel engines. If not available CE or even

CD may be used.

41
 Warning, oils for use in petrol and diesel engines can be found with a 4-letter
code only. E.g.: SF/CE

Wha t does ACEA mea n?

ACEA is the French abbreviation for European Automobile Manufacturers

Association
They use the folowing codes:

Gasoline

A1 and A5 Oil intended for use in gasoline engines specifically designed to be capable of
using low friction, low viscosity. Oils unsuitable for use in some engines.

A2 General purpose oil intended for use in most gasoline engines with normal drain
intervals, although it may not be suitable for some high performance engines.

A3 Oil intended for use in high performance gasoline engines and / or for extended drain
intervals, and / or for year-round use of low viscosity oils, and/or for severe operating
conditions as defined by the engine manufacturer.

A4 Reserved for future use for gasoline direct injection engines.

Diesel

B1 and B5 Oil intended for use in car and light van diesel engines specifically designed to
be capable of using low friction These oils may be unsuitable for use in some engines.
Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.

B2 General purpose oil intended for use in most car and light van diesel engines (primarily
indirect injection) with normal drain intervals.

B3 Oil for use in high performance car and light van diesel engines and / or for extended
drainintervals, and / or for year-round use of low viscosity oils, and/or for severe
operating conditions.

B4 Stable, stay-in-grade oils intended for use in cars and light vans having direct injection
diesel engines but also suitable for applications described under B3

We recommend using B3, if not avialable B2.

If different oils are a vailable in the field a t the sa me price, which one should
you choose?

Provided that the API specs are the same, it is always preferable to choose a well-
known brand.

42
When cha nging the oil in some countries, diesel is used to clea n the engine. Is
this a ccepta ble?

No, for diesel has different properties from oil and does not resist the same
pressure as engine oil. It is normal that engine oil in a diesel engine is black very
shortly after it has been changed. Cleaning or flushing the engine is however not
needed. The only exception is when the old oil is very thick; use a special cleaning
additive in that case (engine flush).

Should I a lways use the same type a nd brand of oil?

In a breakdown, get the level back up with any kind of engine oil.
It is preferably to use the same type and brand for a longer period though.

Why do we not use an oil which needs changing every 1 0, 000 or 20, 000 km?
Because we fear that the vehicle will not be serviced on the other points (especially
the suspension and drive train) if the engine oil does not need replacement.
Secondly, you are never sure about the quality indicated on the oil can.
On the MSF vehicles, with the use we make of them, the services carried out
incorporate various inspection points and the engine oil change is only a small part of
these services. MSF prefers fairly frequent inspections and a good quality oil “no
more, no less”.

How do you change the engine oil and check the level?

Make sure that the vehicle is perfectly horizontal.

The oil should be drained whilst the engine is warm. If necessary, start the engine
and let it run for a few minutes.

The oil level is also set with the engine warm. Turn it off and wait 5 minutes before
checking the level with the gauge.

43
TRANSMISSION

The transmission groups all the mechanisms that transmit the power developed by
the engine to the drive wheels of the vehicle.

Clutch system

The clutch is located between the engine and the transmission. Its role is to allow
the isolation of movement between the engine and the transmission. This is done by
activating the clutch pedal during changing gear. In a sense pressing the clutch pedal
releases a type of ‘reverse brake’ that locks the engine crankshaft/flywheel to the
gearbox drive shaft.

The smooth operation of the clutch then ensures the gradual transmission of engine
power to the drive wheels, thereby allowing the car to start moving gradually.

44
 The clutch comprises a certain number of components illustrated below. The clutch
mechanism, fixed on the flywheel, rotates at the same speed as the engine.

By pressing the pedal a piston compresses an uncompressible liquid (brake fluid is

used) which pushes the “fork”. The clutch fork compresses the springs located in the

clutch mechanism which then releases the ‘brake’ effect of the clutch plate.
Once the springs are compressed, there is no more pressure compressing the clutch
disk between the flywheel and the clutch mechanism. The disk is no longer connected
to the flywheel/clutch mechanism assembly. The gear box is released from the engines
energy enabling the gear to be changed.

45
For how many kilometres does a clutch la st on the 4- wheel drive vehicles used
by MSF?

150,000 to 200,000 kilometres is normal. In the field, the clutch that only lasts only
50,000 km is either defective, not the right replacement quality or suffering from
poor driving skill. For example drivers using the clutch and accelerator continuously
in bottlenecks and on uneven terrain to brake rather than using the hand brake. It is
therefore essential to survey driver practices and to remind them of the cost and
lifespan of parts. Normally a clutch should last a minimum of 100,000 km. Bear in
mind however that heavy off-road driving accelerates clutch wear, especially if the
clutch is ‘slipped’ when negotiating difficult terrain when there is no need.

Is it wise to replace only the disk?

This can only be done by professionals and it is recommended to replace the disk,
mechanism assembly and release bearing.

46
Gearbox

The torque developed by the engine remains almost constant whereas the power is
proportional to the motor revs. However, when starting or going uphill, the vehicle
requires greater torque. A torque increasing mechanism is therefore necessary: this
is the role of the gearbox.

The oil - API GL5 - 80W90 – (also used for the transfer gearbox and axles) is
used to maintain the gearbox. If not available, API GL5 90 may be used.

47
Transfer gearbox

The transfer gearbox, specific to 4-wheel drive, serves to adapt the type of
propulsion to the type of terrain. It is a shifting mechanism whereby engine drive
can be transferred from just the one axle to both axles, converting 2 wheel drive to
4 wheel drive

On rear-wheel drive vehicles, the “front” transmission has to be connected to the

rest of the transmission to move into 4-wheel drive. The transfer gearbox performs
this role when passing between H2 and H4.

Another function, L4, (low Range) further increases the torque transmitted to the
wheels for difficult terrain by providing lower gear ratios. (See “Using and driving -
wheel drive vehicles). In short engaging L4 converts the Landcruiser into a tractor.

Checking the transfer box oil levels

The same oil - API GL5 - 80W90 - as used for the gearbox and axles is used.

48
Can problems occur between the gea rbox a nd the transfer gearbox?

There can be a problem between the shaft oil seals between the transfer gearbox
and the gearbox.

As the gearbox is higher than the transfer gearbox, oil passes from the gearbox to
the transfer gearbox in the event of a leak.

How do you ascertain this?

The gearbox oil level drops with a corresponding rise in the transfer gearbox level.

49
 Monitor this during each service as you risk driving without oil and destroying the
gearbox.

There is also a “gearbox” breather vent and a “transfer gearbox” breather vent.
Should the vehicle ever be forced into extremely deep water (where the headlights
are submerged) as soon as the vehicle is back at the workshop check both gearbox
oil and transfer box oil. Water can be sucked through the breathers due to the hot
gases in both boxes rapidly cooling as each box gets submerged.

THERE IS A MANDATORY RULING IN MSF THAT DEEP WATER CROSSINGS

(WATER DEEPER THAN THE TOP OF THE RIM) ARE TO BE AVOIDED AT ALL
COSTS, EXCEPT IN A LIFE THREATENING DIRE EMERGENCY.

While the landcruiser has a formidable capability - any MSF vehicle damaged in such
a situation will require an immediate, detailed and well rationalised report.
Remember that muddy water acts as a fine sandpaper that damages seals and
bearings. Additionally if water is sucked into the engine via the air intake, it can
destroy the engine.

Refer to the guide on 4WD driving in the appendix.

Differentials
The differential is a bellcrank. When you go round and round in a courtyard, the
inside wheel turns less than the outside wheel (because the radius is different). The
“torque” calibrated by the transmission is distributed and balanced through the
helical gearing of the differential and then delivered to wheels the balancing enables
each wheel its rotating speed.

The differential is the mechanism that

distributes the torque in a balance thereby
allowing the inside rear wheel on the bend to
turn at a different speed from that of the
outside rear wheel, each time the vehicle
trajectory changes. This device thus
prevents the wheels from slipping on the
ground. If there was simply a fixed axle as
on a Go-cart, the wheels would skid and lose
their grip.

In the Landcruiser there is a front

differential and a rear differential. On some
permanent 4-wheel drives, but not our
models HZJ 75/78/79, there is also a
differential between the front and rear
axles at the transfer gearbox exit to
balance the torque over the 4 wheels.

50
 When a wheel locks, the opposite wheel turns twice as fast for the differential
enables the torque takes the route with the least resistance to friction. For
example, on a muddy path, if the 2 right wheels are slipping in the mud, the torque
will be transmitted towards these right wheels and not to the left wheels on firm
ground, which means that you are stuck with a 4-wheel drive in mud.
However Toyota has included a system to compensate for this: the Limited Slip
Differential, fitted to the rear axle, which prevents that all torque will be
transmitted to the wheels without grip. It will always transmit 25% of the torque to
the other rear wheel.

This Limited Slip Differential can get you out of difficult situations, particularly on
a bank where all the weight is on the lowest inside wheel.

It is important to note that the differentials are at the lowest part of the
Landcruiser and are therefore subject to terrain damage particularly from large
rocks; this is one reason they have been ‘offset’ on the axle. This in order to enable
the cruiser to penetrate deeply rutted tracks with a high centre ridge. Remember
the differential casing can get cracked if it suffers a hard impact and subsequent
weeping of oil will result.

A note of mechanical wisdom – familiarise yourself with the different scent

between engine oil and transmission oil, that way at a ‘sniff’ you know where the
fresh oil slick under the vehicle is coming from.

Drive shafts

There are 2: one going to the “front” axle and the other going to the “rear” axle.

They are made of light, hollow steel tubes, sufficiently sturdy to resist twisting and
bending under load. They are each a single entity and have two joints, one at each
end, these are called the universal joints. So named as they can transmit torque on
from a shaft at any angle.

The drive shafts transmit uniformly the transmission force to the differentials. In
dusty, dirt road conditions they become a hard working part of the transmission and

51
do require a regular lube with grease, particularly if regularly immersed in water.

Be alert to any play or slackness in the universal joint, as this can rapidly increa se
once it commences, replace the worn universal joint as soon as possible.

- Where are the grea se points?

There are 3 on each shaft: 2 universal joint greasers and 1 splined shaft greaser.

How do you grea se them?

Using a grease gun, with the vehicle in neutral to be able to turn the drive shaft.

Grease the cross until the grease itself appears at the 4 tips of the cross.

A single application of the grease gun at each service is enough to grease the
splined shaft. If there is too much grease, it can act like a jack pushing the drive
shaft, making the protective cap jump off and letting the dirt in through the freed
hole.

Wha t type of grea se should be used?

We recommend lithium-based grease NLGI No. 2. It is best to order it using the

MSF order sheets.

52
Should a nything importa nt be checked before removing a sha ft?

Yes, always trace a position mark on each coupling flange so that the same angular
orientation is maintained when reassembling. Incorrect reassembly can result in
imbalance, vibration and abnormal noise. The drive shafts are a balanced mechanism.

A note of mechanical wisdom – when removing any part on the Landcruiser mark it
in line with its surrounds so that in reassembly it is relocated to its original
postion, this helps reduce the wear and annoyance of vibration due to any
potential inbalance on a hard working part.

Axles
Both the front and the rear axle are fitted with breather vents which enable the
axles and differentials to operate at atmospheric pressure. When driving the axle
will heat up and needs a vent to evacuate the hot gas pressure in the cases. Check
that these breather vents are not blocked.

The breather vents are connected by a pipe from the axle to a higher position in the
vehicle. They are located as such in order to enable the axles to be immersed in
water, thereby allowing some fording ability without the risk of water being sucked
into the casings as the hot gasses inside cool. However breathers still tend to clog
under intensive use. This results in overpressure in the axles and oil leaking from
the axle towards the wheel hubs. These leaks can have unfortunate consequences as
the hot oil distorts the seals under pressure, it then dilutes the wheel bearing
grease and the wheel rim becomes covered in oil. Unchecked in hot sandy
environments this can lead to rapid wheel bearing wear, brake failure and the
potential loss of an entire wheel at speed.
This is a weak spot in the Land cruiser and -in server working conditions- therefore
the breather vents need to checked and cleaned on a weekly basis by the driver.
A recent modification by the French, likely to be followed by the sections is raised
axle breathers: the front one end near the inlet manifold; the rear one near the fuel
cap.

53
How do you know if the axle breath er vents a re blocked?
When you check the axle oil levels, by removing the level plug, if there is a
pressurising or depressurising noise (whistle) this means the breather vents are
blocked, and the oil seal has not blown (lucky) if the wheel is covered in oil you are
too late (unlucky) as this will require mechanical surgery to remove the axle and
replace the seal, and it needs to be done in a clean environment.

Unblock them by turning the top

valve cap and blowing in breather
hose (disconnected from the axle).
Check also that the valve is working
correctly.

How do you know if there is a lot of water in the axles?

The best way of finding out if there is water in the axles is when you check the
level: unscrew the level plug. It there is a significant flow of oil or an oil/water
mixture (mayonnaise or milky mixture), this means that water has entered the axle
and should be drained. This applies to both front and rear axles.

54
 The oil level is checked by putting a finger into the filling hole - the level should be
5mm from the lower edge of the thread or at the same level. Do not allow any
transmission casing to be overfilled with oil as this can create additional internal
pressure in the casing which can blow shaft oil seals. The oil level is the most
accurate measure to ascertain whether there has been water intake, although this
can be easily seen as the mix of water turns the oil in a white ‘mayonnaise’. (The
same applies to the gearbox and transfer casings).

Which oil is used in the axles?

MSF recommends the oil API GL5 - SAE 90. If not available, API GL5 80W90 may
be used. This oil (grade API GL5) alone is of sufficient quality to maintain a film of
oil on the metallic surfaces of the gearwheel teeth.

The rear differential is a LSD differential. LSD stands for Limited Slip differential.
It will cut in when one of the two rear wheels looses traction. The LSD prevents
that the other wheel also will loose traction. LSD differential need officially a
special extra high grade oil. As we recommend to use only one type of oil, you better
be sure about the quality GL5!

Wheel hubs
How do you check play in the front and rear wheel hubs?

Firstly, place the vehicle on blocks. Without removing the

wheels, move them from top to bottom in the vertical plane.

If there is play, it can be caused by either the wheel

bearings or the knuckle arm bearings. To diagnose this have
someone else press the brake pedal whilst you move the
wheel in the vertical plane. If the play is gone, the wheel

55
bearings are the cause. If then play stayes, the knuckle arm bearings are the cause. If
the wheel bearings are the cause, dismantle the wheel hub bearings to adjust them and
grease them with lithium-based grease NLGG No. 2. If the knuckle arm bearings are
the cause, replace them (check out the chapter on steering) For further detail on
these operations refer to the Toyota workshop manual.

How do you grea se the 2 drive ha lf- sha fts (a xle swivels).

Using a grease gun filled with lithium-based grease NLGG No. 2 in the grease hole,
having wiped the mud and dust away from around the axle swivel plug. Ten applications
of the gun per swivel at each B-service should do; the compartment should be approx. ¾
full (which is hard to check from the outside). Some vehicle might have a swivel joint
nipple; do grease them, having wiped the mud and dust away, every A, B or C service
(four applications of the gun per swivel should be enough).

56
BRAKES

Principle
The brakes are intended to slow the vehicle down and halt it or to maintain it parked on
slopes. The braking system is an essential component in vehicle driving safety.
The brakes convert the vehicle’s kinetic energy into thermal energy by the friction of a
fixed element pinned against a revolving element.

The service braking system on our vehicles is hydraulic in operation and is broken
down into components as shown in the diagram.

When the brake pedal is pressed down, the hydraulic pressure from the brake fluid
is transmitted to each cylinder on the front disk and back drum brakes.

Master cylinder

Its role is to convert the brake pedal travel into

hydraulic pressure. It comprises a reservoir containing
brake fluid.

Check the fluid level regularly, which should be

between the MIN. and MAX. marks.
If the level is too low (below min.), check the
circuit for leaks.

WARNING: If there is no leak, this lowering of the level could come from wear on
the brake pads and shoes. Check the thickness of these parts, therefore.
Additionally in a tropical environment brake fluid has a tendency to absorb water

57
and as such this can introduce oxidation on the linings of both master and slave
cylinders and generate leakage in the hydraulic system. Ensure all brake fluid
containers are tightly sealed in storage.

Toyota recommends brake fluid SAW J1703 ‘DOT3’. You can however top up the
level with a higher quality product ‘DOT4’. Replace the brake fluid every 100,000
kms or 3 years, whichever occurs first. In very humid conditions this period should
be 2 years.

Brake tubing
Check the state of the rigid and flexible pipes periodically. A leak means that
the fluid is no longer reaching the brake cylinders under pressure, resulting in less
efficient or defective braking.

Check in particular:

for rigid pipes for flexible pipes

58
 Drum brakes

These brakes operate by the rubbing of fixed shoes pinned to the inside of a
rotating drum connected to the wheel. When the brakes are applied, the friction can
generate temperatures of 200 to 300°C.

When you press the pedal, the shoes move away through the action of the brake
cylinder and the linings then press against the drum.

This causes wear on the brake linings and drum, the linings wearing quicker than the
drum. Using them beyond their wear limits reduces braking efficiency and wears
down the drum quickly. The linings and drum should be checked periodically.

How do you inspect the linings and drums?

Firstly, remove the drum by starting to

ltake off the safety screw (see photo).

Then, move the brake shoes away from the drum as described above.

59
It’ s so difficult a nd time consuming to remove the drum, isn’ t there a n ea sier
way?

Yes, to facilitate the drum to be taken off, grid off the little raised rim at the
edge. Use a small angle grinder to do so (the rim builds up over time as the drum
weares down and the outer part of the drum is not in contact with the lining and
does not).

60
The drum can be removed once the linings are moved away from it.

Once removed, check drum state and wear, and change them if they show irregular
and/or extensive wear.

Ca n you rectify the drums in turn?

This should be avoided as it requires too high a degree of accuracy. Replace the drum
when need be.
Also measure the thickness of the shoe linings:

The standard thickness is 6.5 mm and the minimum is 1.5 mm.

61
If the measured thickness is less or wear is irregular, replace the brake shoes.

Make sure that the contact is good between lining and drum. The linings and drum can
be cleaned with sandpaper to eliminate oil stains. Avoid oil, grease or brake fluid to
come in contact with the linings. If oil, grease or brake fuid has spilled for an
extended period or in ample quantity, replace the brake linings

Before inserting new shoes, check the wheel (slave) cylinders for leaks. Raise the
dust trap. If there are traces of brake fluid, replace the cups or the brake
cylinders. Prevent dust and dirt to enter and never use normal grease or oil; only use
special brake-grease (lithium soap base) or brake fluid.

How often should the brakes be clea ned?

It is advisable that the driver removes the drums once a week for a clean up in
countries with frequent deep mud or regions with sandbanks with deep ruts. The
more often this level of service is done the easier it is as the system will not suffer
from the seizing effect of oxidation. A word of warning: do not breath in the brake
lining dust as this may have possible carcinogens. It is advisable to use water when
cleaning the brake systems rather than blow them with compressed air. Do not use
detergents to clean brakes – just clean water.

How do you a djust the bra ke shoes?

These are adjusted automatically by the hand brake on MSF Landcruisers. The
automatic adjusting system will stop functioning when the brakes full with mud!
Another cause for non functioning of the automatic adjustment system is inproper
removal of the brake drums!

62
Hand or parking brake

This brake is used to keep the

vehicle stopped. It comprises a
hand lever and a control cable
which transmits the lever
movement to the rear drum
brake. The force is transmitted
inside the drum by a little cable
(this picture is from an 78/79
series; the 75 series have a
slightly different pivoting guide
cam for the small cable).

The hand brake

cable is anchored
to the hand brake
lever and the
force applied on
the brake lever is
transmitted by
the cable.

63
Disc brakes

On disk brakes, the disk which revolves with the wheel is pinched by pads
controlled by the brake cylinder. The friction between the brake disk and pads cause
the disk to stop rotating.

This friction causes wear on the pads more quickly than wear on the disk .

If the pads are used beyond their limit, there is a risk of direct contact between the
pad supports and the disk.

Check the disk and pads periodically, therefore.

How do you inspect the pads?

They must be removed for inspection. Make the most of this to clean their housing as
mud very frequently is baked on by the temperature of the brakes. Use a metallic
brush and water for this cleaning operation. Take care not to damage the rubber
protection on the calipers.

Measure the pad using a ruler (see diagram below). Generally, the minimum thickness
should never be less than 1.0 mm.

If the pads are close or less to 1mm thick or if they show irregular wear, replace them.
Some pads have a groove which allows admissible wear to be assessed.

The squeaking of a wear indicator fitted on the pads alerts the driver.

64
How do you inspect the disk thickness?

Using a slide caliper and 2 drill bits of

identical diameter (see photos), having
cleaned the disk with a rag and paying
attention to the rim caused by wear.

If the disk is deeply worn or

scratched and is below the minimum
thickness, it is advisable to replace it.

Type Min. dimensions

PZ/HZJ 75 18.0 mm

HZJ 78/79 30.0 mm

HZJ 80 23.0 mm

Consult the manufacturer’s

documentation for other vehicles.

Be careful not to allow any oil to come into contact with the brake linings, disks
and the rubber protection on the calipers.

65
TYRES
First a comment on wheels:
if you encounter frequent wheel bolts breakage; it is very likely that the
wheel nuts are overtightened! Recommended torque is 200 Nm

General comments

The choice of tyres (with or without inner tubes) is even more important than in Europe
in the majority of countries where we work. The choice is made difficult by the
tremendous variation in terrain encountered by our vehicles.

The tyre dimension is fixed by the vehicle manufacturer according to its road holding,
load and speed constraints. The safety and reliability of your vehicle depends on
complying with this choice.

Tyre markings

The full, standardised description of a tyre defines its dimensional, use and application
characteristics.

Example: 7.50 R 16 C 8PR 112/110 N Tube Type

7.50 = section width in inches

R = Radial structure (by default diagonal structure)
16 = Inside diameter of tyre and rim in inches
C = Commercial vehicle tyres (reinforced)
8PR = Former structure resistance rating (8 ply rating)
112 = Load capacity rating of tyre fitted singly
i.e.: 1,120 kgs at 4.5 bar (2,240 per axle)
110 = Load capacity rating of tyre fitted as one of a pair
i.e.: 1,060 kgs at 4.5 bar (2,440 per axle)
N = Performance rating (of max. speed) N = 140 km/h
Tube type = Fitted with inner tubes (never install without)
Tubeless = Fitted without inner tubes (possible to fit with inner tube**)

Example: 235/85 R 16 C 114/111 N Tubeless

235 = Section width in mm

/85 = % ratio between the height of the sidewalls and the section width
R = Radial structure (by default diagonal structure)
16 = Inside diameter of tyre and rim in inches
C = Commercial vehicle tyres (reinforced)
114 = Load capacity rating of tyre fitted singly
i.e.: 1,180 kgs at 4.75 bar (2,360 per axle)

66
111 = Load capacity rating of tyre fitted in a pair
i.e.: 1,090 kgs at 4.75 bar (4,360 per axle)
N = Performance rating (of max. speed) N = 140 km/h
Tubeless = Fitted without inner tubes (possible to fit with inner tube**)

**A tubeless tyre must be fitted on a tubeless rim, otherwise it should be fitted with
an inner tube.
A “tube” tyre must always be fitted with an inner tube regardless of the rim type.
NB: It is strictly forbidden to fit a tube tyre without an inner tube!

Structure

Although the tyres used on the European road network are all radial structure, this is
not the case in the all terrain field where many more diagonal structure tyres are
found; they must no longer be used as they are outdated in terms of safety.

Never use diagonal structure tyres.

A radial tyre is identified by the letter “R” in the dimension indicating its size.

Example: 7.50 R 16. or 235/85 R 16.

PR = Ply ra ting

Former resistance rating for the carcass, now replaced by the load rating linked to the
speed rating. Identified on the tyre by a figure followed by the letters PR.

Example: A “12PR” tyre has a more resistant carcass than the “10PR”, it can be
inflated and therefore loaded more!

Load and speed ratings

Shows the load and speed for which the tyre is designed.

Example: 110 N the figure 110 corresponds to 1,060 kg per tyre

the letter N corresponds to a maximum speed of 140 km/h.

When two load ratings follow, separated by a stroke, for example 104/102, this means:

The first is the load rating for a single-wheel assembly: 104 = 900 kg
The second is the load rating for a wheel as one of a pair: 102 = 850 kg

67
 LI: load index

LI KG/wheel LI KG/wheel LI KG/wheel LI KG/wheel LI KG/wheel Code Speed

Speed Km/h

75 387 96 710 117 1285 138 2360 159 4375 A8 40

76 400 97 730 118 1320 139 2430 160 4500 B 50
77 412 98 750 119 1360 140 2500 161 4625 C 60
78 425 99 775 120 1400 141 2575 162 4750 D 65
79 437 100 800 121 1450 142 2650 163 4875 E 70
80 450 101 825 122 1500 143 2725 164 5000 F 80
81 462 102 850 123 1550 144 2800 165 5150 G 90
82 475 103 875 124 1600 145 2900 166 5300 J 100
83 487 104 900 125 1650 146 3000 167 5450 K 110
84 500 105 925 126 1700 147 3075 168 5600 L 120
85 515 106 950 127 1750 148 3150 169 5800 M 130
86 530 107 975 128 1800 149 3250 170 6000 N 140
87 545 108 100 129 1850 150 3350 171 6150 P 150
88 560 109 1030 130 1900 151 3450 172 6300 Q 160
89 580 110 1060 131 1950 152 3550 173 6500 R 170
90 600 111 1090 132 2000 153 3650 174 6700 S 180
91 615 112 1120 133 2060 154 3750 175 6900 T 190
92 630 113 1150 134 2120 155 3875 176 7100 H 210
93 650 114 1180 135 2180 156 4000 177 7300 V 240
94 670 112 1215 136 2240 157 4125 178 7500 W 270
95 690 116 1250 137 2300 158 4250 179 7750 Y 300

Profiles and treads

Choosing a tyre profile, that is the arrangement and depth of the tread, depends on
the terrain the vehicle will be driven on; distinction is made between tyres intended for
very different terrains.

Mud profile:

Very cut out tread and straight profile to facilitate

getting rid of the mud. (And avoid going in up to the
knees). Use as little as possible on made-up roads!

68
 Sand profile:
Shallower tread and round, wide profile (to avoid digging
under the wheels and dehydrating without reason by
shovelling away in blazing sun!).
Reserved exclusively for desert environments. Warning
this type of tyre is easily ‘staked’ by tree roots, timber
and sharp rocks if used in an ‘other than sandy’
environment.

Road/rock profile:
More versatile, as originally installed on our vehicles, for
made-up roads, hard and rocky tracks, to resist the worst
bumps.

All terrain profile:

It is also the most versatile for all kind of tracks. Also very
suitable as winter tyre for cold regions.

Heavy load profile:

Reserved for our pick -ups for use with heavy payloads
(reminder: max. load = 900 kg), road/rock type treads,
very long life.

69
Retreaded tyre:
By this term is understood rebuilding of the tread rubber and sidewalls up to the bead.
The bead is the part of the tyre in contact with the rim.
NB: Warning, in many countries the tread alone has been rebuilt and we strongly advise
that these tyres are not used.

Tyre pressures

Tyre pressures are set legally by car manufacturers for maximum safety. (Behaviour of
the vehicle on straight roads and in bends). It is primordial to respect these pressures
to avoid damaging the tyres and thus ensure their long life and your safety.

Pressure table for MSF vehicles for use on a road or drivable track:

Pressure in bar HZJ 75/78 Station HZJ 75/79 Pick-up

wagon

Heavily-loaded Front 2.5 to 3 2.5 to 3

vehicle
Rear 3to 3.5 3.5 to 4.5

Unloaded or lightly- Front 2 to 2.5 2 to 2.5

loaded vehicle
Rear 2.5 to 3 2.5 to 3

This pressure is measured when cold, having driven less than 5 kms.

On very sandy or muddy terrain, these pressures can be lowered to 1 bar, provided that
speeds remain below 25 km/h.

Task the driver to check the pressures regularly every fortnight, including the spare
wheel. Inspect the tyres when cold for the pressure increases as they heat up in use.

Always check the calibration of the pressure gauge with a second apparatus. A cheap
gauge can give erroneous information.

Tyre wear

Tyre wear is measured against the wear indicators on the tyres. These are small bosses
that stand proud of the bottom of the groove by 1.6 to 1.8 mm. These indicators,
which are moulded at 4 or 6 points spread over the circumference, become closer to
the tyre surface as the rubber becomes worn. When they are finally flush, then the
time has come to change the tyres. These indicators allow the wear limit and
replacement schedule to be determined.
They can easily be found on the edge of the tyre by the wear indicator markings used.

70
These indicators vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and will be Bib, the letters
PSI, TWI or a triangle.
Tyre rotation

To ensure even tyre wear and encourage long life, it is recommended that the tyres are
rotated when they are identical in size and ply rating or have identical load ratings.
How often you rotate the tyres depends on the state of the roads driven over.
In particular, if the vehicle is often driven in 2-wheel drive, a more frequent rotation is
recommended, as the rear wheels wear more rapidly than the front ones.
Bear in mind that the less tread a tyre has subjects it to hotter temperatures as the
treads also act to transfer heat to the surrounding atmosphere. This is critical in hot
regions where the temperature of road surfaces in the middle of the day are very high
and have been known to cause blow outs. Additionally a thinner tyre loses traction in
soil and is subject to increased punctures.
Some rotation diagrams:
excluding the spare wheel: including the spare wheel:

71
SUSPENSION
Principle

Placed between the chassis and the wheels, the role of the suspension is to absorb
the unevenness of the road surface and improve grip, comfort and stability. The
suspension plays a part in the vehicle’s good rood behaviour in conjunction with the
tyres.

It groups springs, shock absorbers, stabilising bar, etc.

The 75 has leaf spring suspension at the front and the rear, whereas the 78 and 79

now have coiled spring suspension at the front and leaf spring suspension at the rear.

Leaf spring suspension

These leaf springs are in the form of curved,

flexible steel leaves.

They are joined at both front and rear to an axle whose differential, wheel shafts and
wheel hubs make up a rigid assembly.
The pack of leaves connects the axle to the chassis via flexible bushes (silentbloc)

72
and bracket clips.

Be alert to the vehicle ‘sagging’ in one corner or the front or rear being lower when
unloaded. This can be an indication of a broken or worn (loss of tension) spring. In
Leaf springs a broken leaf blade can remain hidden by the others in the assembly
and so a careful inspection and clean will be required. A defective spring should be
replaced as soon as possible as it seriously compromises the stability of the vehicle,
and in leaf springs a chain reaction can occur where the now additional stress on the
other blades cause them to break too.

73
How do you inspect the lea f spring bushes/silentblocs?

Use a tyre lever to lever the bracket clips apart and see if there is any play. If so,
remove and replace the worn out silentblocs.

Why has MSF modified the front leaf packs on the 75 series?

Originally, the springs were too weak and collapsed too quickly. For a longer life time
and improved efficiency in our conditions of use, we have modified the arrow of the
leaf pack. We have also put a bush in the leaf loops to avoid too rapid wear on the

rubber spring bushes.

74
Coil spring suspension

These springs are manufactured from a special rolled steel rod. They offer
improved comfort on the road as they have graduated flexibility.

Unlike leaf springs, coiled springs do not retain the axle. The axle is connected to
the chassis via 2 lower arms.

One end of each lower arm is fixed to the chassis, the other to the axle. 3
bushes/silentblocs are used as connectors on each arm.

The arm is easy to remove and all major towns have workshops with presses capable
of changing the silentblocs. These silentblocs will hold for at least hundred
thousands kilometres.

75
What is the Pa nhard rod used for on coiled spring suspension systems?

The Panhard rod keeps the axle in position with the lower arms by working
transversally.

The strut is fixed to the

axle by one end and the
chassis at the other by 2
silentblocs. Test these
silentblocs every C-service
with a tyre lever.
If there is play change the
silentblocs, always using a
press. The part no is
48706-60030.

76
A bent lower suspension arm due to a loose panhard rod.

Shock absorbers
The springs oscillate vertically and the shock absorbers are designed to dampen
these oscillating movements to guarantee a comfortable ride.
The shock absorbers also give the tyres better road holding and improvement
steering behaviour. Additionally they also ease spring wear and enhance the life of
the vehicles springs.
Various points should be inspected on the shock absorbers:
- the fixings and the state of the shock absorber bushes/silentblocs,
- possible leaks and both shock absorbers should always be removed and
replaced,
- signs of knocks (impact of stones, etc.)

77
 A broken shock absorber support (lower support for the front shock); an
indication for fast driving!

Axle bump stops

When the springs contract and extend beyond the permitted limits, the
manufacturer has installed bump stops to avoid damaging other components. These
bump stops protect the axles, shock absorbers, etc.

With the vehicle empty and level, check the spacing between the axle bump stop and
the chassis, which should be 50 mm minimum. Otherwise, change the spring.

If these bump stops are changed too often, it means that the driver is driving too fast
and braking too late when meeting an obstacle. Think to monitor the replacement
frequency for these suspension bump stops.

78
Stabilising (anti-roll) bars

An anti-roll bar is necessary for both leaf and coiled spring suspension systems. Its
role is to limit vehicle tilt caused by centrifugal force which is apparent in the roll
of the body in bends.

Anti-roll bars are used extensively in our vehicles, which causes the bushes/silentblocs
which hold them to wear quite fast.
The bearings and double-conical rollers should be tested frequently and replaced if
there is a large amount of play.
To the front: 2 bearings and 2 double-conical rollers, to the rear: 2 bearings, 2 double-
conical rollers and 4 cushions.

can I ta ke off the anti- roll ba r in hea vy terra in?

Yes, you can. The precondition is that the average speed is not higher than 40
Km/hour.
In difficult terrain the anti-roll bar has very little effect but wears down very
quickly.

Front anti roll bar/Anti sway bar

79
Rear anti-roll bar

80
81
STEERING

Principle

Steering control is achieved using a steering box, which in turn transmits the turning
force to the steering linkage via a counterpart strut (or Pitman arm). This then
causes the front wheels to pivot.

The main problems encountered in the field are with the steering linkages becoming
worn due to poor maintenance and steering rods getting bent due to aggressive/poor
driving or minor accident under vehicle accident. Vibration of the front wheels,
caused by imbalance is another important contributer to wear. Balancing is often
impossible to have done at field level. Buying good quality tyres (with less imbalance)
and frequent djustment of the wheel bearings might help out here.

All pre-1996 models were without power steering, but since then our vehicles have
power steering.

Wha t type of oil is used for the power steering?

ATF type Dexron II oil.

The steering box is extremely expensive, particularly when it is power assisted. It
costs around €1,000.
Do not play around with removing the steering box as soon as there is a little play,
for rebuilding a hydraulic steering box can only be done by experts.

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However, think about checking the power steering oil level in the reservoir.

Steering wheel play

Check this with the vehicle
stopped, the wheels
perfectly aligned straight,
moving the steering wheel
gently from left to right.
With the wheels not moving,
the play in the steering wheel
should not exceed the limit
of 30/40 mm at its
circumference.

Play in steering linkage

The steering linkage is made up of struts and arms which transmit the movement of
the steering box to the front wheels.

This involves making sure that there is no play in the linkage joints.
There are 4 joints, 2 can be adjusted and greased, 2 cannot.

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It is advisable to also check the state of the joint dust shield sleeves (cracking,
damage): these can be changed on the adjustable joints, but the complete joint (tie-
rod end) has to be replaced on the non-adjustable ones.

Adjustable and greasable steering joint:

These joints should be greased with lithium-based grease NLGG No. 2.

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Non-adjustable and non-greasable joint:

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 Steering shock absorber

This shock absorber is placed betw een the linkage and the vehicle chassis and is
intended to absorb the jolts and vibration transmitted to the steering wheel by the

wheels.

This is a dual-effect shock absorber: it must be equally hard when compressed and
when extended. If this is found not to be the case after its removal, replace it.

Make sure that there is no accumulation of sediment between the cylinder and the
shock absorber piston.

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 State of knuckel bearings

The vehicle has to be placed on a stand and the front wheels removed to check the
state of the steering pivotor knuckle bearings.

Having disconnected the steering linkage from the steering arm (or swivel arm), turn
the pivot casing from left to right transversally to measure the play. If the
movement is not clear and is jerky, replace the knuckle bearings.

Extensive oil leaks between the casing and the joint mean that it is necessary to
change the bearings and the seals.

The detailed procedure to replace steering knuckle bearings is found in the Toyota
Repair Manual Supplements:

RM 730 E page SA 22 for the HZJ 78/79,

RM 183 E page SA 38 for the PZJ/HZJ 75.

In any case this job is best done by a competent mechanic if possible.

87
ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT
Batteries

How many ba tteries are there initia lly on the electrica l circuit?

Initially a single battery on our standard vehicles.

A battery’s capacity is dramatically reduced on low temperature (optimum is 20-

25°). If the temperature drops so does the capacity. In extremely cold countries
such as Tadjikistan (temperatures go down to -40°), the engine is very difficult to
start as all the components are cold and the battery power is reduced. In these
circumstances, MSF sends a special cold country battery or adds a second battery
to double the battery capacity.

How do you ma inta in a battery?

A new battery is put into service with electrolyte. This is a mixture of sulphuric acid
and distilled water.

As the battery is used, the distilled water making up the electrolyte can evaporate.

The electrolyte level should be checked regularly therefore (level read directly on
the translucent battery container or by opening all the plugs on the non-translucent
containers) and if necessary topped up with distilled water.

In hot heavy duty environments the driver should be tasked to check the electrolyte
level every C-service.

WARNING, using ordinary water will reduce battery performance and life. Rain
water that has not touched any surface but has been trapped directly from the sky
using very clean plastic buckets and stored in a very clean plastic container is in fact
pure distilled water and can be used to top up battery cells. Never top up with
battery acid or have the battery acid renewed!

88
How do you mea sure electrolyte density?

Make sure that the battery is firmly fixed and clean.

Remove any corrosion from the battery container and terminals with hot water then
rub the terminals carefully with sandpaper. Grease the terminals with parafin gelly
or grease.

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Electrical circuit maintenance also includes regular inspection of the lighting,
indicators and indicator lamps.

Alternator

Like all the electrical equipment on our vehicles, the alternator is not an amphibian.
Avoid submerging it, therefore.

The alternator is driven by the same belts as the fan and the water pump. If
squealing is detected from the alternator, it could mean that its pulley bearing is
dry. Just a drop of oil where the pulley shaft enters the generator at the bearing
should fix this. If the problem continues have the problem assessed by a
professional and the bearing replaced if questionable. A broken alternator bearing
will either throw or snap the fan belt with little to warning other than the squeal
that draws your attention to it.

A broken fan belt will disable the cooling (waterpump and fan) as well!

Headlights

Check that they are working properly and are adjusted correctly so that they light
the road as far as possible without blinding other drivers coming towards you.

90
 CHASSIS AND BODYWORK
Components are fixed to the chassis and bodywork using screws and nuts. Damage
can result if they become loose. It is therefore absolutely essential to retighten the
screws and nuts fixing elements to the bodywork and chassis periodically (every C-
service)

• Check in particular the screws and nuts on the suspension.

• Check the elements fixing the bodywork to the chassis:

Assess the play on the door hinges, bonnet and boot lid as well as the presence of
door
and lid end stops (the bonnet end stops are adjustable):

Don’t forget the tank straps:

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Also inspect:

- possible crack s in the bodywork

- the state of the seat sliders (grease),

- fixing of the spare wheel and the Hilift jack,

- windscreen washer operation and level (top up if necessary with a mixture of

water (90%) and alcohol (10%)) and the state of the wiper blades.

• Finally, on the exhaust line, check the state of the bushes/silentblocs and
fixings by shaking the assembly.

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CONCLUSION
Slow and steady wins the race.
THE MSF POLICY IS TO KEEP ITS VEHICLE FLEET
OPERATIONAL AND IN THE FIELD SUPPORTING ITS MISSIONS.
TO ACHIEVE THIS THE VEHICLES REQUIRE A LOGISTICIAN
WHO IS RESPONSIBLE FOR AND CAN MANAGE AN EFFECTIVE
AND TIMELY MAINTENANCE REGIME.
REMEMBER - POOR LOGISTICAL MANAGEMENT IS
REFLECTED IN THE LENGTH OF TIME A VEHICLE IS
REMOVED FROM THE FIELD FOR MECHANICAL SURGERY

See you soon in the field.

93
ANNEXES

Workshop layout

Everyone has his own ideas on how to set-up a workshop. We give some standards from
extensive field experience..

The pit

Indispensable, it should be surrounded by a large concrete apron, and covered with a

high roof to allow trucks to enter if need be.

The recommended dimensions are:

length : 6 m + 1,5 à 2 m for the stairs

width : 0,80 m

depth : 1,50 m

Take care with mud aprons and pit constructions: they should be reinforced with steel
bars and protected against water.

An alternative to a simple pit:

94
The building

Two or three rooms:

• the first room holds the spare parts, and should be kept locked. Spares will
only be given out by the responsible store keeper. It goes without saying that a
proper administration must be kept
• the second holds the tools, auxiliary equipment
• the third will serve as the office in the larger workshops.
Combinations of functions are possible, and one of the rooms should be available for the
personnel as a canteen and/or changing room. Proper washing facilities should be made
available. A good infrastructure will motivate the staff.

95
In emergency, a container could be used with the following design:

The tools

• Each mechanic has his personal toolbox with standard tools. These are
locked by the mechanic at the end of each day and locked away by the store
keeper.
• Special tools will be given out on demand by the storekeeper, who keeps
records of where they are.

For small workshops you can combine tasks, and have the special tools on a central place
without records.
Good quality tools for a workshop are indispensable, and motivating to work with.

See the Logistics Catalogue for suggestions on tools.

96
WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR THE INEXPERIENCED

There is no good reason for anyone to suffer injuries caused by unsafe work practices
regardless of who and where they are!

NEVER ALLOW ANYONE TO TRANSFER FUEL WHILE SMOKING OR IN THE

PRESENCE OF NAKED FLAMES.

ALWAYS ENSURE A VEHICLE IS SECURELY SUPPORTED BEFORE ALLOWING

ANYONE TO WORK UNDER ANY PART IT. JACKS ARE NOT SECURE SUPPORTS! AT
THE VERY LEAST, REMOVE THE SPARE WHEELS AND STACK THEM UP UNDER A
RAISED VEHICLE SUCH THAT IT CANNOT POSSIBLY FALL.

MAKE SURE EXTREME CARE IS TAKEN WHEN WORKING ON ANY MOVING PARTS
OR A RUNNING ENGINE.

MAKE SURE ALSO THAT NO ONE CAN TRY TO START AN ENGINE OR OPERATE
CONTROLS THAT MAY ENDANGER ANYONE WORKING ON THE VEHICLE. IF
NECESSARY, REMOVE THE KEYS, LOCK THE DOORS AND/OR DISCONNECT THE
BATTERY.

CONTACT WITH EXHAUST PIPES WILL CAUSE EXTREMELY SERIOUS BURNS AS

WILL CONTACT WITH HOT ENGINE OIL OR COOLING FLUID. NEVER REMOVE THE
RADIATOR CAP FROM AN OVER HEATED ENGINE UNTIL IT HAS BEEN ALLOWED TO
COOL DOWN AND EVEN THEN PROCEED TO DO SO WITH CARE.

BATTERY ACID WILL BURN THE SKIN AND DO IRREPARABLE DAMAGE TO THE
EYES.

SHORTING OUT THE BATTERY WILL CAUSE SPARKS, BURNS AND POSSIBLY FIRE.

BE VERY CAREFUL WITH HEAVY PARTS WHICH CAN TRAP FINGERS AND DAMAGE
BACKS.

CONSIDER WHERE SHARP TOOLS LIKE SCREWDRIVERS WILL END UP IF THEY SLIP
OR WHERE YOUR KNUCKLES WILL GO IF A SPANNER SLIPS OR THE BOLT RELEASES
MORE EASILY THAN YOU EXPECT.

THERE IS AN ENDLESS LIST OF WHAT NOT TO DO.

THINK! BE CAREFUL! LOOK OUT FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY AND THAT OF OTHERS!

TAKE YOUR TIME!

97
 Fuel management

Fuel types
Petroleum hydrocarbons: this table shows the different petroleum by-products,
classified in order of distillation

ENGLISH ENGLISH
FRENCH SPANISH USE Peculiarities
(US) (UK)
COMBUSTIBLE FUEL FUEL COMBUSTIBLE
(Carburant) (Motor fuel) (Motor fuel) (Carburante)

METHANE METHANE METHANE METANO Town gas Gas

ETHANE ETHANE ETHANE ETANO Gaz

Bottled gas for

PROPANE PROPANE PROPANE PROPANO fridge, heating, Gas
etc.

BUTANE BUTANE BUTANE BUTANO ditto Gas

Liquefied Gas used for car fuel

G.P.L. L.P.G. L.P.G. G.P.L.
Petroleum Gas (adapted engine)

AVGAS AViation Very volatile, fluid, blue colour, same smell

AVGAS AVGAS AVGAS GASoline: as petrol. Very flammable, explosive. Can be
LL100
LL100 LL100 LL100 for piston engines used in apetrol engine with 3% oil added
Essence Avion

ESSENCE GASOLINE GASOLINA Volatile, fluid, colourless (or almost). Very

PETROL German: Benzin flammable, explosive. Cannot be replaced by
- SUPER - PREMIUM - SUPER - SUPER oct. ind. 95-99 diesel, but can replace Avgas in some aircraft.
- NORMALE - REGULAR - REGULAR - NORMAL oct. ind. 90-95 Various octane indices between regular and
- SANS PLOMB - UNLEADED - UNLEADED - SIN PLOMO super

KEROSENE KEROSENE KEROSENE KEROSENO Turbine engined Same as for Paraffin but with aeronautical
JETA1 JETA1 JETA1 JETA1 aircraft specifications: filtering, packing and storing.

PETROLE KEROSENE
(Lampant) KEROSENE (Lamp oil) KEROSENO Lamps, fridges, Colourless, specific smell. Fuel for so -called
PARAFFINE (Lamp oil) PARAFFIN PETROLEO burner, etc. “lamp oil” equipment
(Canada) (Oil)

Greasy, yellowish, frequently coloured, heavy

GASOIL, GASOIL GASOIL GASOLEO smell. When pure, solidifies at -5°C and
Cars
GAZOLE DIESEL DIESEL DIESEL requires an additive (or 20% lamp oil). This also
acts as the injection pump lubricant.

FUEL, FIOUL, FUEL OIL FUEL OIL, Same as diesel without additives for low
MAZOUT PARAFFIN FUEL Heating temperatures and lubrication

HUILE OIL OIL ACEITE Lubrication Greasy, different viscosities for different uses

PARAFFIN PARAFFIN
PARAFFINE WAX WAX PARAFINA Candles

PETROLE HEAVY HEAVY Heavy combustible for marine engines and

LOURD FUEL FUEL Slow engines power plants

ASPHALTE,
BITUME ASPHALT ASPHALT ASFALTO Road surfaces

PETROLE CRUDE ROCK OIL

(BRUT) PETROLEUM PARAFFIN CRUDO Natural state
KEROSENE
What is a good quality fuel?

A good quality fuel is first and foremost the appropriate fuel!

Filling up a diesel vehicle with petrol has irreversible consequences such as destroying the
engine.
Good fuel quality will be achieved by paying special attention to protecting it against
all accidental or intentional contamination (no impurities, dust, other liquids or chemical
additions).

Fuel quality should be checked throughout the supply chain:

• Container(s) purchases
• Fuel purchases
• Transport
• Storage
• Distribution.

Especially fuel from barrels should be checked that it contains no water!

WARNING!
Filling up with dirty fuel or full of water can cause serious, irreversible mechanical problems
and considerably reduces the vehicle’s lifetime.

Containers:
One of the first things to check in terms of fuel quality is the cleanliness of the drums
or tank where this fuel will be stored.
A secondhand drum or tank previously containing an acid liquid is out of the question,
however clean it may be on the outside.

Purchase:
Local traders can attempt to sell you fuel previously mixed with water. It is preferable
to contact a national or well-known petrol company, although checks are of course still
required.
The easiest way of checking that there is no water is to use the water detection paste
(MSF code TVECPAST1CO)
- let the fuel settle for a few moments, before inserting a rod coated with this
paste to the bottom of the container; any water will turn the paste dark purple.
- if the end of the rod does not change color, this is good news; if on the other
hand the last 10 cm turn purple, you should tell the salesman that you wish to purchase
some fuel from him, not water!
Transport
Transporting the fuel is the most likely cause for contamination.
To avoid potential theft, the contents of the drums should be checked before departure
in the presence of the carrier before being sealed. On arrival at destination, and still in the
presence of the carrier, check again that no water has been substituted for fuel using the water
detection paste.

Storage:

Two storage types: drums or tank. Both types of container should be watertight and
dustproof.

The contents should always be correctly marked on the container. Don’t hesitate to
use several languages, for example French, English and the local dialect. Distribution
mistakes can be very serious. When drums are re- used for another fuel, remember above
all to remove the previous markings.

The fuel is decanted during storage. As water is heavier than the hydrocarbons, it
will naturally settle on the bottom with the dirt. Here are found all the impurities,
dust and materials in suspension.
This natural decanting over time will give us an acceptable quality.

To avoid canceling out this first filtering process, the container (even a drum)
should not be moved subsequently to the distribution centre. The impurities would once
again be mixed into the fuel.
In simple terms: the car goes to the drum, not the drum to the car.

Given the flammable, even explosive nature of fuels, certain precautions should
be taken regarding storage premises:
- The building should be distanced from offices or dwellings
- It must be well ventilated
- Display: “Danger - fuel” “No smoking”
- Place a powder extinguisher at the entrance to the building (9 kg
extinguisher)
- and a sand bucket with a spade at the building exit

The storage building should also be protected from the sun and finally fairly well
concealed so as not to attract thieves.
A tank should be drained on a regular basis and a tap should be provided at its
lowest point for this purpose.

Distribution

Regardless of the distribution method (gravity or pump action) the tube of the
plunger pipe or fuel outlet must be at least 10 cm above the container bottom.

Never pump the bottom of the tank and distribute it.

Regardless of your storage method (tank or drums), use a “Hydrosorb” filter (MSF
fuel station, code KPROKPUFH01). This filter contains cellulose particles. Cellulose is
coalescent, in other words it removes the slightest water particle found in the fuel. It also
holds the impurities.

Replace this distribution station filter at least once a year. In any case, it will not
hold large quantities of water, therefore the more water there is in the diesel, the more
often the filter needs changing. When the filter is full it clogs up and it is more and more
difficult for the diesel to pass through it.
Tom remove large amounts of water from fuel, use the special water separating
funnel (MSF code TVEAFUNNMAG)

Instructions for use of the MSF fuel station

- firstly, calibrate it using the screw located on the side (pump a known volume with
as regular a pump movement as possible);
- use the pump smoothly and regularly
- be careful not to suck up air.

The diesel salvaged from the bottom of the tanks can be used to clean garage parts, start up
incinerators, etc.
Winterization

Diesel fuels contain paraffin.

At low temperature (for example, diesel stored at -30°C), paraffin contained in the
fuel will separate in the form of flakes. This paraffin will clog the filter or strainer in the
tank of the vehicle and the engine will certainly stop.
In most countries diesel fuel has a different composition in the winter and is made
suitable by the manufacturer or supplier for the se cold conditions. If this is not true, or if
you have bought diesel in the summer and the winter is starting………what should you
do?
For use in very cold countries, a fuel heater can be installed between the tanks and
the diesel filters. The heated paraffin therefore melts and once again mixes with the diesel.
Additives –that avoid paraffin deposit- can also be added to the diesel. These anti-
freeze additives are most likely available locally or can be ordered from HQ.

Another solution: the aircraft fuel kerosene JetA1 which is close to diesel and lamp
oil, but which does not separate at low temperatures.
30% kerosene or JetA1 can be mixed with diesel. They can be added to diesel as
anti- freeze.
Above all, avoid mixing petrol with diesel, even though it does improve the diesel
anti- freeze property. An amount of gasoline over 5% creates detonations in the engine,
which can cause damage. In addition, the injection pump requires lubrication which petrol
does not provide.