080 // 081 The Science of Fish and Seafood

Is it better to buy fresh or

FROZEN FISH?
Freezing fish halts the growth of bacteria and microbes,
and muscle-digesting enzymes in fish are stalled.
FLAVOR TRANSFER
Fragile fish oils quickly turn rancid crystal damage is negligible,
F L AV O R M O L E C U L E S F R O M
and natural bacteria that coat them and texture and taste are almost PA R C H M E N T- B A K E D F ISH
breed well in the fridge (see p68). identical to a fresh fish. But S E E P O U T IN T O T H E L IQU I D
Fish can be frozen with more low-powered home freezing will B R OT H A N D CA N B E K E PT
FOR A SAUCE BASE.
success than other meats as their damage delicate fish proteins.
flexible muscle membranes suffer So, if fish has been caught very
less damage from sharp ice crystals. recently and kept on ice, fresh is
If “flash frozen” (see below), ice best, otherwise buy it prefrozen.
KNOW THE DIFFERENCE
KNOW THE DIFFERENCE
Parchment
Flash-freezing fish Home freezing fish Baking fish in parchment, en papillote,
Industrial blast freezers freeze fish Low-powered home freezers freeze traps in moisture and gives a similar
rapidly to limit ice crystal formation. slowly, allowing ice crystals to form. effect to slow-poaching fish (see p83).

Freezing often starts on board The liquid in fish is a salty mix

ships to halt spoilage, with fish
cooled to around –22ºF (-30ºC).
Once on shore, industrial freezer
chambers blast fish with –40ºF
(–40ºC) air to finish freezing rapidly.
of proteins and minerals. The salt
lowers the freezing point, which
slows home freezing even further,
increasing damage to muscle proteins
from slowly expanding ice crystals.
What is it? Fish is baked in a
tightly sealed parchment or foil
pouch. Parchment typically has
a nonstick silicone coating, giving
insulation that slows heat transfer
from the pan. Most foil isn’t
nonstick and transfers heat
more rapidly.

Best for: Ideal for cooking fillets.

Herbs, spices, and vegetables can

Can I cook fish be added to suffuse the outer layers.

FROM FROZEN? Uncovered

As with oven roasting meats, the outer layers
Cooking from frozen increases cooking time, but has benefits, too. of fish baked without a covering can dry, but
this can be a good method for whole fish.

Cooking smaller fish from frozen
works perfectly well. Large cuts of
fish, and whole fish, run the risk of
being uncooked in the center and
burnt on the outside, so should be
thawed before cooking.
Thin- to medium-thickness
fillets cooked from frozen can
rival fresh fish in taste and
texture, and may even surpass
them if a crispy skin is called for.
Ice crystals melt slowly in fish,
increasing cooking time, but this
delay can help to achieve crisp skin
without the center overcooking.
If you do thaw fish, do this
either on a rack in the fridge with
a drip tray beneath, or put fish in
a sealed bag in a bowl of icy water.
Water speeds thawing, and
keeping it very cold helps
prevent bacteria from breeding.
How the fish cooks: Fish is baked
in the oven without a covering, with
added oils and flavorings. Cooking is
slow and the outer layers dry as heat
moves into the center.
Best for: This is ideal for whole fish.
Although the outer layers of the fish
dry, as the surface temperature soars,
the skin is crisped and browned while
the center cooks gently.