xO **C4, Division of Agric

UNIVERSITY OF

PROPAGATION
of AVOCADOS
R. G. Piatt

Edward F. Frolich

CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL
^ Experiment Station
Extension Service
 THE PROPAGATION
of avocado commercial production requires
trees for
attention to detail and extreme care at each step. The
avocado is a tree sensitive to weather and soil condition
and susceptible to certain pests, but the careful grower
can successfully propagate tree- with minimum trouble
by following the directions in this publication. This cir-
cular replaces the former Circular 463.

THE SEED AND SEEDLING

Selecting the seed . . . planting the seed . . . cart 1
of the
seedbed . . . the nursery . . . digging the seedling . . . care
of the nursery
page 3

BUDDED TREES
Budding the seedling . . . selecting the bu< budding
methods . . . digging the trees
page 7

TIP GRAFTS
Container-grown seedlings . . . grafting the seedlings
page 10

TOPWORKING
Reasons for topworking best time for topworking . . . . . .

the bark graft the notch graft . selecting the scion

. . . . .

tools for topworking care of the grafted tree . . .

page 13

THE AUTHORS
R. G. Piatt is Extension Subtropical Horticulturist. Riv-
erside. Edward F. Frolich is Technician IV, Department
of Plant Biochemistry, Agricultural Sciences. Los An-
geles.

JANUARY, 1965

In order that the information in our publications may be more intelligible it is sometimes necessary
to use trade names of products orequipment rather than complicated descriptive or chemical
identifications. In so doing it is unavoidable in some cases that similar products which are on the
market under other trade names may not be cited. No endorsement of named products is intended
nor is criticism implied of similar products which are not mentioned.
 AVOCADO PROPAGATION
Avoid root rot infection
A.vocados may be propagated in a num- In the production of avocado nursery
ber of different ways. Nursery trees are trees every precaution should be taken to

produced by budding or grafting selected insure freedom from infection with cin-

varieties on seedling rootstocks. Trees can

namon fungus (Phytophthora einna-

be grown from cuttings but the perform-

momi) . Infection of trees in the nursery

ance of such trees has not shown any

by this fungus has been a major cause of
spread of avocado root rot disease.
advantage over budded trees and most
Under a voluntary program of the Cali-
varieties are difficult to root and estab-
fornia State Department of Agriculture,
lish. Older trees may be topworked to new
avocado nursery stock may be certified if
varieties by various types of grafts or by
grown under certain conditions. The gen-
budding into vigorous new shoots. This
eral provisions include hot water treat-
circular describes the more common pro-
ment of the seed, growing the trees in
cedures for avocado tree production in
containers on raised benches or well-
California, and methods that are used
drained, unbroken paved areas, fumigat-
under special conditions. ing or steam-sterilizing the soil, and
Avocado trees grown from seed usually sanitation and isolation of the nursery.
come into bearing slowly. The tree varies
Details of the regulations and methods
extremely in yield and fruit type; the governing certification are available from
fruit is rarely of acceptable quality.Even your local University of California Farm
if the fruit were good would be difficult
it Advisor or County Agricultural Commis-
to market because each tree would bear sioner. Instructions for the hot water seed
fruit differing in size, color, shape, and treatment and soil fumigation are con-
quality. In cold locations where it is diffi- tained in University of California Exten-
cult to establish nursery trees, growers sion Circular 511, "Avocado Root Rot."
sometimes plant hardy seedlings directly Whether or not trees are grown for
in the orchard. After the seedlings have certification, by following the general
grown two or more seasons they can be procedures of the program the grower
grafted to the desired variety. Seedling will minimize the risk of infection in his
trees are occasionallv used as windbreaks. nursery trees.

THE SEED AND SEEDLING

Rootstocks ous trees when budded or grafted, the
In California, seedlings of the hardy Mex- stocks are more susceptible to disease and
ican varieties are preferred for rootstocks. injury from cold. Mexican seedlings are
Seedlings of the Guatemalan varieties are more resistant to lime-induced chlorosis,
notrecommended because although they dothiorella canker and verticillium wilt
make strong growth and produce vigor- than are Guatemalan seedlings.

[3
Selecting the seed rotting cinnamon fungus or verticillium
Select seed from hardy Mexican
trees of a
wilt fungus. To insure freedom from dis-
ease it is best to treat the soil with a
variety known to produce seedlings that
recognized soil fumigant. Methyl bromide
make vigorous, disease-free trees. It is
and Vapam are currently recommended.
best to discard seed that is small for the
Sandy soil that has not recently been
variety. If possible, the tree or trees
should be isolated so that they will not
manured is best; some growers prefer a
mixture of half sand and half loam.
receive pollen from less desirable varie-
ties. Topa Topa and Mexicola are the A convenient and economical way to
grow seedlings for field planting is in
varieties most commonly used as sources
beds 12 inches deep, 3 to 4 feet wide, and
of seed. Ganter and a number of other
long enough to accommodate the number
Mexican varieties are also used. Certain
of seeds desired. It is often desirable to
selections of the Duke variety have shown
build a frame of 1- x 12-inch boards on
moderate tolerance to phytophthora root
rot fungus, but they are not immune to
the soil surface and fill it with soil spe-
the disease. Nurserymen have not used cially prepared or selected for the seed-
bed. If rodents are likely to be a problem,
Duke seed due to its rela-
extensively,
place a wire netting under the frame be-
tively slow germination and variation in
fore filling. It is sometimes necessary to
seedling uniformity.
screen the top of the beds until the seed-
Seed sometimes carries the virus dis-
lings are well established, to prevent their
ease, sun blotch. Since some trees carry
removal or damage by rats and squirrels.
the virus without visible symptoms, it is
important to know that seedlings from Seed can also be planted directly in the
field in nursery rows. This requires spe-
trees used as a seed source produce dis-
cial care and does not permit culling
ease-free trees when budded or grafted.
Seed can also carry the avocado root rot weak and offtype seedlings without leav-
ing blank spaces. In addition, some seeds
disease. Fruit that has lain on infected
sprout more slowly than the rest, causing
soil may be invaded by the fungus, and

many of the seeds will then infect the

an irregular stand. Some growers place a
nursery. Therefore it is wise to take seed
paper cup or a hot cap over each seed to
protect it from drying and to facilitate
from sound, mature fruit, avoiding the
windfalls. Your Farm Advisor can assist
weed control. Covering seed in this way
allows the grower to use contact weed-
you in locating reliable seed.
killing sprays in the nursery.
Plant the seed soon after it is removed
from the fruit. from drying.
Protect it
Plant seed with the large, flat end
Since fruit of the Mexican varieties ma- down, leaving the tip flush with the soil
tures in the fall it will, in some cases, be
surface. Germination can be hastened by

necessary to store the seed until spring if

cutting a thin slice off the tip and base of

the nursery be located out-of-doors.

is to
the seed. This is not necessary when the

If seed is packed in dry moss, sand, or seed is planted immediately after it is re-

>;iv\<lust and stored in a cool location moved from the fruit. Be sure that the

(40° to 45° F), it may be kept for sev- soil makes firm contact with the seed.

eral months. Spread a layer of clean sand, sawdust, or

ground peat moss over the beds, deep

Planting the seed for

enough to cover the seeds Y± to inch. %
This prevents formation of a crust over
standard nursery trees the soil after irrigation and will protect
Avocado seedlings should be grown in a the seeds from drying. Provide shade to
soil that has riexer been planted to avo- prevent sunburn of tender sprouts as they
cados or other crops which carry the root- emerge during hot weather.

[4]
 Seed spacing in the seedbed depends tion. Seedlings are ready to transplant
upon the method of transplanting from when they are 5 or 6 inches high.
the seedbed to the nursery row. If seed- It is neither necessary nor desirable to
lings are to be transplanted bare root, fertilize avocado seedlings at this stage.

that is without soil adhering to the roots, The seeds provide adequate nutrients.
seed can be planted at 2-inch intervals. If

seedlings are to be transplanted with soil The nursery

around their roots, plant them at 4-inch The nursery site should be as free as pos-
intervals to permit easy digging. Seed sible from frost, strong wind and ocean
planted directly in the nursery row breezes. The soil should be free from
should be spaced 14 to 16 inches apart. rocks and well drained but should con-
Some growers prefer to plant in 2- x tain enough clay to form a good ball
2- x 8-inch paper pots to facilitate mov- when the trees are dug. As with the seed-
ing the seedlings into the nursery. If the bed, the soil should not have been planted
grower has a hothouse or hot bed, he can to avocados or other crops that may have
plant seed as it becomes available. Seed- carried the cinnamon or verticillium fun-
lings grown in this way from fall or early gus. Avoid locations below established
winter plantings will be ready to line out avocado orchards or land formerly
in the nursery by spring. planted to avocados, where drainage
In warmer locations seed planted in water may carry disease to the nursery.
the fall out-of-doors, or in a lath or cloth It will save expense and trouble if the

shelter will also be ready to transplant by site is also free of noxious weeds such as

spring. Seedlings lined out in spring nutgrass, bermudagrass or morning glory.

should be ready to bud by summer. It is important to have an ample supply

Under favorable conditions seedlings of good water available at all times.

from fall plantings made directly in nurs- Before planting, the soil should be
ery rows can also be budded during sum- moist and worked to form a good plant-
mer. In cooler locations field plantings ing bed. If furrows are used for irriga-
are made in March or April and budding and tested
tion they should be established
can begin in the fall. for grades before Furrows
planting.
should rarerly be more than 100 feet
Care of the seedbed long. Adjust planting distances for equip-
Keep the seed bed moist at all times. This ment. The usual practice is to space the
will require sprinkling every two or three rows 3 feet apart and plant the seedlings
days. In cool locations germination is 14 to 16 inches apart in the rows.
hastened if the beds are covered with
plastic or black paper, which warms the Digging the seedlings
soil, loss, and discour-
decreases moisture When the seedlings are ready to trans-
ages weed growth. The paper must be plant,moisten the soil in the seedbed.
removed at the first sign of germination Begin at one end of the bed, draw the
to avoid injury to the tender shoots. soil away from the seedlings and remove
Germination requires about 30 days them with as many small roots as possi-
when seed is planted in a hothouse or ble. Use special care to leave the seed
out-of-doors in spring. Most of the seed- attached to the seedlings; otherwise they
lings will be ready to transplant 6090 to will not make satisfactory growth. Plant
days after the seed is planted. Seed the seedlings immediately and protect
planted out-of-doors in fall or winter usu- them from drying at all times. They can
ally requires 60 or more days to germi- be kept in moist burlap, moss or shavings
nate and the seedlings will be ready to for a short time. Discard all weak and
transplant 30 to 60 days after germina- ofTtype seedlings. They rarely produce

[5]
 .

good trees. Sort the good seedlings into Holes for planting are usually made
two or three sizes and plant the different with a large dibble, and should be deep
sizes in separate rows. This will give enough to accommodate the whole root
a more uniform and better-appearing system without bending. If the holes are
nurser) made deeper than necessary, the root can
Seedlings with four and five leaves can be inserted to the full depth of the hole
be planted w ithout reducing the leaf sur- and then lifted to the proper planting
face. Larger seedlings will do better if level to straighten the tender root tips and
half of each leaf is clipped off before prevent formation of crooked taproots.
planting. Do not clip or damage the grow- Plant the seedlings at the same level as in
ing tip of the seedling. the seedbed and press the soil firmly
It is I »est lo dig seedlings to be trans- around the roots and seed.
planted from the seedbed into large pots As soon as the seedlings are planted,
or other containers with a ball of soil water them to settle the soil. For late
around their roots. Seedlings grown in plantings when sudden hot spells are ex-
small paper pots must have the pot re- pected, provide protection from the sun
moved when transplanted to the nursery by placing a shingle on the south side of
each plant. Irrigate the seedlings again
the day after planting.

Care of the nursery

—fo**k* After the seedlings are established, they

PtPE need irrigation every week to ten days.

The success of the nursery depends on
careful irrigation more than upon any
other operation. Examine the soil at fre-
quent intervals to make sure it never
becomes dry. This keeps the seedlings
growing without interruption and pro-
duces the most desirable type of seedling
for budding or grafting.
It is important to keep the nursery free

of weeds they compete with the seedlings

;

A dibble
and retard their growth. Be especially
is easy careful to keep noxious weeds out of the
to make
nursery; otherwise, state regulations may
forbid moving the trees.

Fertilization is usually necessary. Use

1 pound of a chemical nitrogen carrier to
150 feet of nursery row avS needed. The
amount must be determined for each by
V.
seedling color and vigor. Seedlings lack-
ing nitrogen are pale green to yellow and
grow slowly, if at all. Those with ade-
—3/8 OR S// "
6 quate nitrogen have dark green leaves
and grow vigorously.
Except in cool coastal areas, most seed-
lings will be large enough to bud by fall
3" and the rest will be ready by spring.

[6
 ;

nii~*
BUDDED
Budding the seedlings leaves. For spring budding the best time
Budding can be done in the fall or in the
to obtain buds is in late winter before
spring as soon as the bark will Bud-
growth begins.
slip.
Since varieties differ in growth habits,
ding may also be done during the sum-
only experience will enable one to select
mer but it is difficult to get a good stand
the best buds for the various varieties.
the eyes of the buds tend to fall out.
Some varieties bear good buds at most
Seedlings should be at least % inch in
seasons. Others have acceptable buds
diameter where the bud is to be inserted
before budding. Discard those that have only during short periods. Buds cut be-

not made vigorous growth or that show fore spring growth begins can be kept in

diseased or ofTtype growth; they usually polyethylene bags at temperatures be-

produce poor trees. tween 40° and 45° F for one or two
Selecting suitable buds is the most dif- months. When suitable buds are located,
ficult part of the job. Buds will be found cut the leaves off % inch from the bud
on mature terminal growth which is not and keep the sticks in moist burlap until

producing new growth. Those nearest the used or placed in storage. Always protect
terminal end are usually best. Select them from drying. It is often best to em-
plump dormant buds on mature wood. ploy a professional propagator to bud the
For late summer or fall buds, select new trees. This insures a good set of buds and
growth with fully expanded mature saves time and money. However, with a

Scions selected for budding. Left: Fuerte. Right: Haas.

 The wrapping can be removed from
spring buds in about six weeks and from
summer buds in about four weeks. Fall
buds may be left eight weeks or more
before the wraps are removed. Always
remove wraps before the stock is con-

W stricted.
may
With fast-growing seedlings
be necessary
about three weeks
to loosen the wraps
to prevent constricting
it

in

T the stock.
At the time of budding or shortly there-
after, remove the tip of the rootstock
I
seedling. This will retard growth and
help force the bud. When the wraps are
removed, examine the buds to see if they
have taken. Successful buds will be green
and the bud or eye will be firmly in place.
If the bud has taken, cut the seedling
stock back to 10 inches above the bud to
force growth.

Budstick with Bud

T-cut Bud tied Staking
bud removed inserted

When the bud has grown about 6 inches,

little practice most growers can bud suc- tie it to the seedling stock for support.
cessfully. Trees are sometimes dug at this stage
When the seedlings are ready to bud, and planted in the orchards as tied-up
use a sharp, thin-bladed knife with a buds.
rounded point. Make a T cut in the bark When the bud is ready for the second
of the seedling at a smooth place, about tie, the trees should be staked, using lath
3 or 4 inches above the soil. The T cut or 4-foot long, %- to %-inch redwood
may be either upright or inverted. When stakes which are available for this pur-
making the cut crossing the T, hold the pose. The buds grow rapidly and need
knife at an angle so as to raise the edge tying at frequent intervals. When the bud
of the bark slightly. This makes it easier has grown 12 or 14 inches the seedling
to insert the bud. stock can be cut off close to the bud union.
Next, cut a bud from one of the bud- This should be done not less than two
sticks with a single smooth stroke of the weeks before the trees are to be dug. Use
knife. It is important to have the cut sur- a coping saw or other fine-toothed saw.
face smooth. If the upright T is used, start Slant the cut down and away from the
about % inch below the bud and remove bud union so that the scar will heal
a shield-shaped chip about l 1/^ to 2 quickly. Cover the wound with a good
inches long. Cut deep enough to take a pruning compound, such as emulsified
sliver of wood under the bud. As the cut asphalt. Be careful to prevent all sprouts
is completed, hold the top of the bud on the rootstock from developing. Trees
against the knife with the thumb and as can be dug any time after they are 18
quickly as possible insert the bud down- inches high.
ward under the bark. Wrap all of the cut
surface but leave the eye of the bud ex- Digging the trees
posed. Various kinds of budding tape are Standard budded avocado trees are usu-
available but plastic materials are best. ally dug with a ball of soil about 10

[8
inches in diameter and 14 to 16 inches inches below the soil surface. Remove the
deep. A special balling spade is used. The ball with the balling spade and lay it on a
soil should be moist but not wet. Insert piece of burlap or material suitable for
the spade 5 inches from the tree trunk to wrapping the Burlap grain sacks are
ball.

a depth of 14 to 16 inches on all
sides.This will cut the roots on all sides
and make a ball 10 inches in diameter.
Next, remove the soil from one side of
the ball, leaving the balling spade in place
on the opposite side of the ball. Using a
shovel, cut the bottom of the ball 14 to 16
four commonly used; one sack will make two
wraps. Paper can be used if the trees are
to be planted immediately.
To tie the wrap slip the spade from
under the ball and fold the wrap around
the ball. Gather the wrap around the
trunk of the tree and tie it in place as

a. First cut on a budded seedling retards b. Second cut on budded seedling gives
growth and helps force bud. bud further nourishment.

* I - ;*.--..
close to the soil surface as possible. Next, Always lift the ball from the bottom,
make three half-hitches around the ball never by the tree. Trees can be handled
and pass the twine under the ball and up with less damage to the balls if they are

the opposite side to the trunk where it is kept in a shady place and watered lightly
then tied securely. Form the lower half- for several days. If trees are to be held for
hitch near the bottom of the ball to pro- some time after digging, the twine used
tect it from spreading when wet. The to tie the ball should be treated to resist

tree is then ready to plant. decay.

Growing tip grafts choice of soil and the use of soil fumiga-

tion. Tip grafts require more care after

Many avocado trees are produced by
planting in the orchard but this is offset
whip-grafting (see illustration, p. 12)
by the lower initial cost and the reduced
seed innI rootstocks when they are ap-
hazard of soil-borne diseases.
proximately ]
/4 inch in diameter. This
Seedlings to be tip-grafted are usually
kind of tree is known as a tip graft.
grown in individual open-bottom pots
Field-grown seedlings can be tip grafted,
not common
practice. Tip
made of 30-pound felt roofing paper.
but this is
Some growers prefer 40- to 60-pound
grafts are usuallyproduced in a hothouse
roofing paper. The most popular pot size
where temperatures can be maintained
is 12 inches deep by 5 inches in diameter.
above 55° or 60° F. Some growers main-
tain a soil temperature of 70° or 80° by
Pots are made by cutting the roll into
three 12-inch sections. These strips are
means of bottom heat and pay little atten-
then cut into lengths to give the size of
tion to air temperature. Trees can be
pot desired. Eighteen-inch pieces make
grown more rapidly by these methods.
5-inch pots. The pots are made by rolling
Seed is planted as early in the fall as it
the pieces into cylinders, sealing the lap
becomes available and the seedlings are
with hot tar or stapling the seams to hold
grafted in late winter or early spring. The
them in place.
trees are usually ready to plant in the
orchard by spring or early summer.
Some growers, especially those who
produce trees without artificial heat, cut
In cooler areas where fruit matures
90-pound felt roofing paper rolls in half,
later and trees develop more slowly it is
and make pots 13 inches deep and 6
often desirable to store seed from the pre-
inches in diameter to allow for greater
vious season for summer planting. This
root development. Pots this deep tend to
gives the seedling an early start so that
buckle near the base unless given support.
the trees will be ready for spring planting.
This support can be provided by cutting
Tip grafts are also grown out-of-doors
the top and bottom out of gallon tin cans,
or in lath or cloth shelters. Cloth shelters
slitting the side, wrapping them around
are best because they exclude wind and the pots and tying them in place with
maintain more favorable temperatures. wire.
Seed planted in late summer or early fall It is important to choose soil for pot-
will usually be ready to graft in spring ting that has not been used to grow avo-
and the trees will be ready to plant the cados or other crops subject to cinnamon
following spring or early summer. root rot or verticillium wilt. It must drain
Since tip grafts are usually grown in readily and remain good condition
in
tar paper pots, greater control of soil- under frequent irrigation. It is a good
borne diseases is possible through careful idea to pot some of the soil and see how

i
10]
itworks before making large-scale plant- be necessary after the seedlings are 4 to
ings. A sandy loam is usually preferred. 6 inches high. A convenient method is to
Drainage can be improved by adding dissolve% pound of a chemical nitrogen
peat moss, compost or well-rotted ma- 10 gallons of water and give
fertilizer in

nure. (These materials sometimes contain each pot % One application

pint. usu- is

excessive amounts of salt and should be ally enough but it should be repeated if
checked for salinity before use. Avocados the trees do not retain a good green color.
are unusually sensitive to salty soils. Be
sure the soil has a low content of soluble Grafting the seedlings
salts and always irrigate the pots to get Seedlings are ready to graft when they
adequate leaching.) Clay loams can be are about ^ inch in diameter. The size
used to advantage if treated with a suit- must be determined by the scion wood
able soil conditioner. Krillium used at 1 available; the seedling and the scion
pound to 500 pounds of clay loam soil has should have about the same diameter.
given good results. Slow growing or offtype seedlings should
To fill the pots place about 2 inches of be discarded. Select wood for grafting as
moist soil in the bottom and tamp it described for budding but keep in mind
firmly so that it will not fall out when the size of the seedlings to be grafted.
the pot is handled. Then fill the pot to To make the graft, cut the seedling off
within 1% inches of the top, making the 3 or 4 inches above the soil, making a
soil firm but not too compact. To keep smooth slanting cut about 1 inch long,
the soil in the pots from being contami- depending on the size of the stock. Next,
nated by the cinnamon fungus, place choose a piece of graft wood 2 to 3 inches
them on a plank bench. If there is no long, with at least one good bud. This is
infected soil in the area, gravel or sand Make a sloping cut on the
called a scion.
beds are satisfactory. It is often best to base of the scion to match the cut on
fumigate the pots with a good fungicide the seedling stock.
after they are filled and in place, treating A second cut is sometimes made on
the whole bench. The seed may then be both scion and stock. Begin about a third
planted directly in the pot, leaving the of theway down from the tip of the stock
tip flush with the Because
soil surface. and the base of the scion make a cut a
avocado seed does not germinate uni- third as long as the first cut. This cut is

formly some growers prefer to sprout the not made with the grain of the wood but
seed in moist sand, moss or vermiculite. is slanted somewhat across the grain
This practice is especially desirable with toward the first cut.This cut is not neces-
seed of questionable germination. (Care sary but it is convenient because it holds
must be used in planting sprouted seed the scion while it is being wrapped.
to avoid injury to the tender root.) It Fit the scion to the stock as illustrated
insures more uniform development of and wrap firmly with plastic tape. Seal
seedlings and simplifies their care. The the end of the scion with asphalt emulsion
seed should be covered with % inch of or other good grafting compound. Under
clean sand, vermiculite or other suitable usual growing conditions the wraps can
material to prevent drying and to keep a be removed in four to eight weeks. Never
crust from forming on the soil. After leave the wrap on long enough to con-
planting the seed, irrigate at once. Ex- strict the growth of the tree. Tip grafts
amine the soil in the pots frequently and are ready to plant in the orchard when
keep it moist at all times. It is important they are 12 to 18 inches high. Trees in
to keep the seedlings growing vigorously 18-inch pots can be held until they are
without setbacks. larger.
With most soils some fertilization will Trees produced in a hothouse should

[in
 Scions for tip grafting. Left: scions selected for knuckles.
Right: scions selected for axillary buds.

A
y A common
splice graft
Whip and
tongue graft

•:4» A tip graft. Note

slanting junction and
careful wrapping of
joined area.

(*
be hardened before planting. This can be shade each other. Planting can begin in
done by moving the trees to a lath house 10 days or two weeks. After planting, the
or a location providing light shade. Allow trees should be staked and cared for in
enough space so that the trees do not the same way as standard nursery trees.

TOPWORKING
Avocado growers frequently have reasons the grafts are placed but can be cut ahead
for topworking trees that are unprofitable of time. Within a day or two after the cut
because of their low production or poor is made the bark begins to tighten and
fruit quality. If the trees are thrifty and will not slip again for several weeks. For
free of disease they can be topworked to this reason if a bark graft is used the cut
more desirable varieties. The resulting is made at the time of grafting or four
trees are entirely satisfactory and will to six weeks in advance. If the trees are
come into production more quickly than cut some time before grafting, a fresh cut

nursery trees put in as replants. Varieties is made when the grafting is done.
suited to the area will usually bear fruit After the tree topremoved, the bark
is

in two to five years after topworking. It is susceptible to sunburn. On hot days

is not difficult to topwork avocado trees injury may result in a few hours. For
but if a large number of trees are in- this reason the stump should be white-

volved an inexperienced person will usu- washed or provided with other suitable
ally find it less costly in the long run to protection from sunburn immediately
employ a commercial propagator. after the top is removed.
Avocados can be topworked at any Scions for topworking should be se-

time, but late winter or spring is best. lected from mature growth. Choose thick
Grafts made at this time have a full grow- wood with plump buds. Some propagators
ing season in which to develop before prefer scions with a ring of buds, com-
winter. Late grafts are more susceptible monly called a knuckle, that develop
to cold injury. where growth was retarded between
The two methods of topworking most flushes of growth. Avoid immature wood
commonly used for avocados are the bark near the terminal bud. Always protect
graft and the saw kerf or notch graft. scion wood from drying. It can be stored
Some growers prefer to top the trees and for several weeks in polyethylene bags at
bud or graft into the vigorous shoots that temperatures of 40° to 45° F.
develop. This method is not commonly
used; it requires more time and is not The bark graft
recommended. This graft is easy to make and can be
Most propagators place the scion di- used at any time when the bark will slip.

can be
rectly in the tree stump. Grafts In early spring the bark may not slip
placed in the frame branches but this until the buds are too far advanced for
requires more work and the sprouts are grafting. For this reason, it is wise to
difficult to manage. With avocados it is select scions for early bark grafting be-
not necessary to leave a nurse limb. fore spring growth begins and store them
Trees to be topworked are cut off at a until needed. The three most commonly
convenient working height where the used methods are described below.
bark is smooth. If there is a poor bud To prepare the stump, make a single
union, or if for any reason the trunk is 2V2-mch vertical slit bark at each
in the
damaged, the cut can be made below the point where a scion is to be placed. On

bud union. The trees are usually cut when small stumps there should usually be two

[13]
scions and on larger ones the scions How to prepare scion for bark graft
should be placed at 4- to 6-inch intervals.
They may not all be needed but the\ will
keep the bark from dying back until the
scions selected to form the new tree are
ready to take over.
\\ocado bark is sometimes too thick
and stiff to fit snugly around scions. In
such cases it can be thinned around the
slits to about % inch.
The -(ions are prepared as illustrated.
A sloping cut 21/) to 3 inches long is made
on one side of the scion. Be sure the cut
surface is smooth so that it makes good
contact with the wood of the stump. It
may be desirable to make a second cut
about y<2, inch long on the opposite side
of the scion. This cut removes the soft
Hexible bark at the base of the scion and
makes it easier to insert without dam- Face toward Face toward
aging the bark. Leave at least two good wood surface bark surface
buds on the scion but do not make it un-
Scions selected for topworking are
necessarily long. If too much of the scion
heavier than scions used for budding.
is exposed it may dry out and fail to take.
Bottom left: scions selected for knuckles.
The scions are pushed down under the Bottom right: scions selected for axillary
bark, leaving only a little of the cut sur- buds.
 face exposed. The cut surface must face
inward and fit close to the wood of the
stump. The scions are held in place by
several turns of stout tape or by driving
one or two flat-headed nails through the
scion into the stump. The bark may be
held in place by a nail on each side of
the scion. Number 19 and 20 nails are
usually about right; nails are preferred
on very large stumps.
A slightly different way to make a bark
graft is used by some propagators. The
bark is slit and the scions are prepared
as described above. The scion is then
inserted by raising the bark on one side
of the slit only. This gives close contact
between one side of the scion and the
undisturbed bark of the stump. The scion
is nailed or tied in place.
A third method is also used. The scion
isprepared as before. Then two slits are
made just far enough apart to admit the
scion without raising the bark. The
tongue of bark between the cuts is raised
and the scion is inserted. The tongue of
bark remains on top of the scion. The

Bark graft. Left: thinning bark. Right: inserting scion into vertical cut in bark.

[15]
'
scion held in place by two nails driven
is Instead of paper shading, a latex-base
through the tongue of bark and the scion white paint can be used for protection
into the wood of the stump. from sunburn. When the grafts are in
As soon as possible seal the upper end place, cover all cut surfaces with asphalt
of the scion; next, seal the cut surface of emulsion. As soon as the surface of the
the stump and cover the thinned bark. emulsion is dry, apply a coat of latex-
I se an asphalt emulsion, grafting wax or base white paint. The scions and buds
any good grafting compound for this pur- should also be covered with white latex
pose. Some materials shrink and crack paint for further protection. This treat-
after a time so it is a good idea to check ment reduces damage to the buds by
the work in 10 days or two weeks and mealybugs and worms which often flour-
seal any cracks that may develop. As an ish within the protection of paper bags
added protection in warmer areas, some in the coastal areas. Use only water-
propagators cut a circular piece of white thinned polyvinyl latex-base white paint.
paper and place it over the cut surface of Paints which contain oils, thinners, or
the stump to reflect the heat and protect turpentine injure the stump and usually
the scions from sunburn. kill the scion.
When the scions are in place, tie or nail
three or more light sticks to the stump Notch graft
so that they extend about 12 inches above The saw kerf or notch graft requires
it. Then place a paper sack over the end more skill than the bark graft but it can
of the stump, using the sticks as a sup- be made any time of the year because
at
port. Tie the sack to the stump and tear it is not necessary to have the bark slip.

a few holes in it to prevent accumulation
of excessive heat. Whitewash or shade
the trunks promptly to protect the bark
from sunburn, as a few hours' exposure
on a hot day will cause damage.
Another way to protect the grafts is to
wrap heavy white butcher's paper around
the stump, extending it a foot or more
above the stump. The larger the stump
the higher the paper must extend above
it. When tied firmly in place, the paper
is supported with three or more thin
sticks pushed down vertically between it
and the stump. Draw the top together and
pin it with nails, leaving openings to
admit light, prevent accumulation of
heat, and to permit the scions to grow out
into the light without further attention.
When the scions begin to grow, enlarge
the openings in the sack or paper to let
in more light. When scions are about 6
inches high, tear the bottom or upper
part off the sacks, or if paper is used, open
the upper end and let the scion grow out
into the light. Leave the paper or sack in
place to shade the top of the stump until
the scions provide adequate shade.
A single cut is made with a saw for each
scion. The cut should extend inward
about 2 inches on the cut surface of the
stump and down the side about 3 inches.
With this method it is especially impor-
tant to choose thick, well-matured scion
wood with a greater diameter than that
used in a bark graft. The scion is pre-
pared by making a sloping cut 2% to 3
inches long on each side to make a wedge
with one side thicker than the other. The
saw cut is then widened to fit the scion.
Most propagators prefer a wide chisel or
a sharpened putty knife with the bevel
on one side for this purpose. The thick
side of the scion faces outward and the
scion is driven into the notch so that the
cambium of the scion matches the cam-
bium of the stump. The cambium is a
thin layer of cells between the barkand
the wood stump and scion.
of both the
These are the cells that produce growth
and it is for this reason that the two
cambium layers must be brought together
in placing the scions into the cut in the
stock. Because of differences in thickness
of bark the scion will not be flush with

[16
 Saw kerf or notch graft. Left: sawing the notch. Right: widening the notch with
a chisel (or specially prepared putty knife) and inserting scion.

the bark of the stump. The scion may be Care of the grafted tree
placed at a slight angle to insure that the
The new sprouts will need support for
two cambiums make contact at least at
several years to prevent the wind blowing
one point. The scion does not need to be
them out. One or more stout stakes ex-
nailed or tied but it is a good idea to wrap
tending 4 or 5 feet above the top of the
the top of the stump with tape to protect
stump provide such support. Except with
the upper edge of the bark. The scions
small trees it will be best to nail the
are sealed and the stump prepared as
stakes to the stump. As the new shoots
described previously.
develop they should be tied at frequent
intervals. Use soft twine and them
Scion for
£=^ loosely.
tie

kerf graft Pinch back growth from the old stump

so that it never shades or interferes with
the scions. When the scions are about
2 feet tall, select the best graft to make
the new tree. It should have a strong
union with the stump and it will be less
be blown out if it is on the wind-
likely to
ward side. All other scions should be re-
tained but they should be pinched back
occasionally so that they do not interfere
with the growth of the new trunk. The
extra grafts can be used to replace the
outside edge must main graft if it is accidentally broken off.

be thicker than This growth which shades the stump and

the inside edge '
keeps the bark from dying back should
be eliminated gradually as the new tree
develops.
In windv areas it is often desirable to

[17]
graft two or three scions together. After necessary to loosen it occasional!} to

they have grown enough (12 to 18 avoid constricting growth.

inches) so that they can be drawn to- Ample moisture must be provided, but
gether, two or preferably three
select since the top has been reduced the tree
scions from opposing sides of the stump. will use less water than formerly. It is

Slice a 2%- to 3-inch strip of bark with important to avoid over-irrigation fol-

a little wood off the side of each scion in lowing topworking operations.
a position so that the cut surfaces can Fertilization is not usually needed until
be brought together. Bind the scions a new top has been established. The new
firmly together with budding tape, mak- top will need some training as it develops
ing sure their cambium layers touch each but unnecessary pruning will delay fruit-
other. When the scions have grown to- ing. The principal need is to prevent
gether, select the strongest one to make upright-growing varieties becoming too
the new tree and pinch the others back tall. As far as possible this should be done

so that they will not interfere with its by pinching new growth back before it
development. Do not remove the wrap- gets out of bounds. If the tree becomes
ping until the union is strong. It may be too tall, cut it back to a lateral branch.

Avocados can be grown from cuttings, poor. The Duke, Mexicola, and Topa
but the resulting plants are more difficult Topa, and all Guatemalan varieties are
to handle than are those on seedling root- very difficult to root. Some rootstock
stocks. Trials have shown that there is no suckers are readily rooted, but others are
particular advantage in this method of difficult. Varieties that root most readily
propagation so far as fruit production is can be rooted under mist or in an ordi-
concerned. Since most varieties are diffi- nary cutting box where humidity can be
cult to root by cuttings, it is doubtful that held at saturation.
this method will replace the use of seed- To make cuttings, select mature termi-
ling rootstocks for commercial propaga- nal growth. Make the cuttings 3 to 6
tion. inches long, with three or four leaves on
Propagation by cuttings has the ad- each cutting. Bottom heat is beneficial.
vantage of making it possible to produce 70° F gives good results but the best
genetically identical rootstocks or trees, temperature has not been determined.
in contrast to the wide genetic variation Any of the common rooting media can be
found in seedlings. Thus, the cutting used, provided drainage is good. It takes
method would provide a means of multi- two to four months to root the cuttings
plying superior rootstocks, if such root- and togrow enough roots to permit trans-
stocks are developed. planting. The rooted cuttings are trans-
Some varieties can be rooted by ordi- planted to pots and handled as other
nary methods; others require special trees. They must be hardened by slowly
treatment. Among those that root easily reducing the humidity. This can be done
are Zutano and Ganter. Fuerte can be either in the cutting bed before trans-
rooted but results are only medium to planting or after transplanting to pots.

L8
 For varieties that are difficult to root described, with vermiculite or peat and
it is necessary to grow a shoot the base sand.
of which has never been exposed to light. The tip of the new shoot is then allowed
This is accomplished by first budding or to develop normal leaves in the light
grafting the variety to be rooted onto a above the covering medium. When three
suitable stock, preferably in a small pot to five leaves have developed, the shoot
or a 1-quart can. If grafted plants are can be detached at its junction with the
available they can be cut back near the original stem and rooted as described
graft union. When buds on the scion start above. It can also be rooted in place by
to grow, these buds are covered to a depth girdling at the base of the shoot to be
of 2 or 3 inches with vermiculite or a rooted and surrounding it with moist
mixture of peat and sand. This can be rooting medium. It is sometimes possible
held in place by a cylinder of black build- to grow and root two to four shoots from
ing paper or by a cylinder of tin. The a single plant at one time. Four to eight
new shoots are then allowed to push weeks are required for roots to appear.
through this medium and develop three When the shoots are removed for root-
to five leaves in the light. The same results ing, additional shoots usually develop and
can be obtained by covering the stub with the process can be repeated. It is often
an inverted tin can or by placing the possible to use the same plant twice, and
plant in a dark chamber. After the new vigorous plants may be used as many as
shoot has made 2 to 4 inches of growth five times.
in the dark, it must be surrounded, as

15m-l,'65(E9786)L.P.
Well, not exactly —you can't grow auto-
mobiles on farms, but farm products are
essential in manufacturing them. Consider
the annual agricultural needs of just one
major automobile company.

900,000 bushels of corn

736,000 bushels of flax-
seed
74,000 bales of cotton

or, in terms of approximate acreage:

15,000 acres of corn

80,000 acres of flax
78,000 acres of cotton

During the same period this company used products derived from
364,000 sheep and 36,000 cattle —plus many other items such as hog
bristles and beeswax. In all, produce equivalent to the output of 1,000
good-sized farms is needed yearly. No wonder a top executive in the
automotive industry has said: "Our plants, here and throughout the
world, would have to close their doors in a few days if their flow of

agricultural materials were to stop."

Supplying America's countless industries — and feeding the nation

bountifully —makes agriculture America's biggest and perhaps most
important business. That is one reason why anything which affects
agriculture affects everybody.