GMRspares

Orange Tiny Terror Effects Loop Mod Kit

Using Reverb and delays with your Tiny Terror can be a headache.
Using any of the gainy tones that the Tiny Terror provides so well
makes time based effects sound terrible. This is a problem addressed
in the Dark Terror but not the Tiny Terror. Now the Tiny Terror has
been discontinued it doesn't look as though it ever will be
addressed. Not to fear because GMRspares are here.

In your kit

2 x Neutrik Jack Sockets

4 x Lengths of wire
1 x Length of heat shrink
1 x 0.047uf capacitor (With sticky back tape applied)
1 x Solder Terminal

Things you need

Soldering Iron
Solder (60/40 solder is best as it heats and sticks better)
Wire cutters
Solder Sucker or De-soldering Braid
Screwdriver
Hair Dryer/Heat Gun/Cigarette Lighter
Small Adjustable Spanner
Drill with 2mm and 11mm drill bits
Masking tape

Things that are useful

A Digital Multimeter is very useful for testing and fault finding for
all your projects on maintenance. I'd be lost without mine so its a
wise investment but not essential for this project.

A Hoover for metal filing from drilling

Before we start......

Soldering Irons get very hot. They operate at temperatures of

anywhere up to 450°C, depending on which one you have. Treat them
with caution and treat components heated by them with equal caution.

Don't touch the tip of the soldering iron.

Use a Soldering Iron stand rather than leaving on work area/surface.
Don't leave unattended.
Remember to switch it off after use.
Use away from children, dogs, cats and nosey things.
Goggles and safety glasses are a good idea.
Wear shoes and trousers.

Nearly ready.....

Make sure you've set aside enough time to do the project before you
start. Depending on your ability and experience this could take an
hour plus to finish. Go and do anything you need to do before you
start, make yourself a cup of tea, visit the lavatory, pick a longish
album (music makes projects a pleasure)and make sure you have your
glasses on (if you need them).
Part 1: Drilling the holes

Attached with the disassembly instructions and these instructions you

should have receive a PDF document called "Drilling Template".

Open the file and print it out making sure your printer settings are
set to "Actual Size".

Cut around the dotted line.

Fig 1

The only place an effects loop will fit on the Tiny Terror is on the
side closest to the speaker outputs.

Fig 2
Take the template and using some masking tape attach it to the
chassis.

Fig 3

Using a 2mm drill bit drill a hole in both positions.

Fig 4

Remove the template.

Fig 5
Drill 11mm holes using the smaller holes as pilot holes. This stops
the larger drill bit from wandering. Take your time this can take a
while.
Fig 6

Part 2: Removing C13 and installing the new cap

Locate C13 on the PCB

Fig 7

Remove "C13"

Heat the solder of "C13" and use your solder sucker or de-soldering
braid to remove the solder.

If you have neither of these you can use an old piece of wire. Strip
the old piece of wire as in Fig 8
Fig 8

Heat the solder and old piece of wire together. The solder will run
into the wire.

Once most of the solder is removed, grip the body of "C13" and once
again heat the solder joints and pull the capacitor free.

Fig 9

Take the 0.047uf capacitor and place it with the sticky back tape
down and the numbers up,

Fig 10
Bend the left leg upwards

Fig 11

Cut the bent leg to around 10mm in length

Fig 12

Bend the other leg in the other direction.

Fig 13
Remove the white protective layer from the sticky tape and insert
into the PCB as in Fig 14. Make sure it is stuck down firmly, this
will stop the capacitor from moving and possibly becoming loose.

Fig 14

Solder the capacitor to the PCB. Add more solder and heat until the
solder has covered both the wire and the board terminal. Cut the
excess wire from under the PCB.

Take the long length red wire and strip both ends and add solder to
one of them.

Solder the red wire to the short leg of the capacitor as in Fig 15
using the end with solder on.

Fig 15
Cut 20mm of your length of heat shrink.

Slip it over the red wire so it covers the solder joint and the bare
leg of the capacitor.

Fig 16

Heat the heat shrink with your heat gun/hairdryer until it fits
snugly.

Fig 17
Take the length orange wire and strip both ends and add solder to
them.

Solder one end where the other terminal of "C13" was as in Fig 18.

Fig 18

Part 3: Installing the send and return jacks

Take the two Neutrik jack sockets and remove the nuts and washers.

Install them in the holes we drilled earlier. makes sure they are
facing upwards with the solder terminals facing towards you as in
Fig 19.

Fig 19

Add solder to the terminals shown in Fig 20.

Fig 20
Cut 20mm of heat shrink and slip it over the orange wire.

Solder the orange wire to the terminal shown in Fig 21.

The will be the send jack.

Fig 21

Pull the heat shrink over the terminal and solder joint.

Fig 22

Heat the heat shrink with your heat gun/hairdryer until it fits
snugly.

Take the short length of red wire and strip both ends.

Twist one end of the short length of red wire to the unsoldered end
on the red wire attached to "C13".

Fig 23
Add solder to the twist and slip a 20mm piece of heat shrink over the
end.

Fig 24

Solder to the terminal shown in Fig 25 and slip the heat shrink over
and heat it as you did before. This will be the return jack.

Fig 25

Fig 26
Add solder to the bare end of the short red wire and slip 20mm of
heat shrink over the wire.

Solder to the terminal shown in Fig 27.

Fig 27

Pull the heat shrink over the terminal and solder joint then heat the
heat shrink as you did before. This will ensure the signal passes
through when no pedals are plugged into the effects loop.

Take the long length of grey wire.

Strip both ends and add solder.

Take the solder terminal and add solder.

Fig 28

Solder the grey wire to it.

Fig 29

Slip 20mm of the heat shrink over the wire and heat.

Fig 30
Slip another piece of heat shrink over the wire and solder to the
terminal of the jack socket shown in Fig 31.

Fig 31

This ground the pedals in the loop.

When you reassemble the amp place under the screw on the PCB closest
to your new effects loop.

Fig 32

Done :)

If you have finished modding then follow the disassembly instruction

in reverse to re-assemble. Don't forget the ground wire from above.
Enjoy your new tones and thanks for shopping and Modding with
GMRspares.