Expedition Peru 2016

Cordillera Blanca (White Range)

Tocllaraju – 6.034 m Chopicalqui – 6.354 m Alpamayo – 5.947 m

06. – 28. August 2016

Program & Information

Status: January 2016
General Information

Cordillera Blanca – “White Range”, Peru

The Cordillera Blanca (Spanish for "White Range") is a mountain range in the Ancash
Region of Peru. It extends between 8°08' and 9°58'S and 77°00' and 77°52'W. It contains 722
individual glaciers. Part of the larger Andes range, it includes 33 major peaks over 5,500
metres (18,040 ft) high in an area 21 kilometres (13 mi) wide and about 200 kilometres
(124 mi) long.

The highest mountain in Peru, Huáscarán (6,768 m), is located here. Huáscarán National
Park, established in 1975, encompasses almost the entire range of the Cordillera
Blanca. The 5,947 m (19,511 ft) Alpamayo Mountain was declared "World's Most
Beautiful Mountain" by an international survey led by former climber Toni Hiebeler in May
1966 in Munich.

Huaraz, base for our expedition, is the main financial and commerce centre of the Callejón
de Huaylas and the main tourist center of Ancash region, moreover, is one of the
important cities in the Peruvian Andes. Huaraz is the main place of winter sports and
adventure. Many visitors from around the world arrived to the city for practicing sports as
climbing, hiking, mountain biking, snowboarding and also to visit the glaciers and mountains
of the Cordillera Blanca, mainly the Huascarán snow peak, that is considered the highest
mountain in tropics, all of them located in Huascarán National Park that is a nature
world heritage site by UNESCO. (Wikipedia)

Scheduled Ascents
Urus - 5.495 m

Acclimatization tour to one of the glaciers of

the Ishinca Valley from our base camp @
the Ishinca refuge, with first easier rocky
parts. 1.150 m difference in altitude to the
summit – the roundtrip will take
approximately 6 – 8 hours.

Ishinca - 5.530 m

Acclimatization tour from our Ishinca Valley base camp. Glacier with easier rocky sections.
1.200 m difference in altitude to the summit. Especially the approach to the mountain is long
and requires a good physical condition. In terms of technical difficulties the tour is still on the
easier side, although there is a tricky area with crevasses in the upper part. The roundtrip to
Ishinca summit and back to the base camp will take 8 – 10 hours.

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Tocllaraju – 6.034 m

Tocllarjau, picture on the right, is a (very)

demanding tour in terms of physical condition and
mountaineering technique to our 1st peak with
more than 6000 m. Good acclimatization is
absolutely necessary in order to assure a successful
ascent. The tour starts from our Ishinca Valley base
camp on 5.300 m with a high camp and is scheduled
for 2 days.

Chopicalqui – 6.354 m

Chopicalqui is a very demanding tour with steep

parts in ice and snow to another gorgeous peak with
over 6.000 m, which is often considered the third
peak of Huascarán. Prerequisites for this tour are
good physical condition and comfort in exposed
terrain / glaciers up to 65°. Chopicalqui summit is
not suitable for beginners. The ascent is scheduled
as a 4-day-tour.

Alpamayo – 5.947 m

Back in 1966, Alpamayo was elected “The World’s

Most Beautiful Mountain” as result of a photo
competition of the magazine „Alpinismus“. The
ascent - even via the standard route - is technically
highly difficult and demanding and therefore only
recommended for very experienced mountaineers.
In our program the ascent is scheduled as a 6-day-
tour.

Itinerary
The expedition is organized in 3 blocks:

1. Arrival, Urus, Ishinca and Tocllaraju

2. Ascent Chopicalqui (departure – in case of participation only in block 1 & 2)
3. Ascent Alpamayo and departure

Participation in our expedition is possible in 2 modalities: block 1 -3 or only block 1 & 2.

The journey to Lima has to be arranged on individual basis. Starting from Lima you will be
accompanied by a representative of Andean Summit Adventure.

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In case you want to do a previous acclimatization program in Peru, we offer an optional
acclimatization pack.

Tour details are scheduled as follows:

OPTIONAL – ACCLIMATIZATION PACKAGE

In case you participate in the acclimatization package previous to the tour, august 6 is a rest day for
your individual disposal in Huaraz.

Day Date Description

02.08.2015 Arrival in Lima & bus-/night bus to Huaraz (3.052 m), accommodation in
hotel/hostel in Huaraz, no meals included (-/-/-)
03.08.2015 Hiking to and visit of the ruins of Wilcahuain (3.400 m), round trip: relaxed 4 –
5 hours (ca. 300 M altitude difference), accommodation in hotel/hostel in
Huaraz, no dinner included (F/M/-)
04.08.2015 Trekking to Laguna Churup (4.450 m), round trip: relaxed 7 – 8 hours (ca. 750
M altitude difference), accommodation in hotel/hostel in Huaraz, no dinner
included (F/M/-)
05.08.2015 Trekking to Laguna 69 (4.620 m), round trip: relaxed 7 – 8 hours (ca. 750 M
altitude difference), accommodation in hotel/hostel in Huaraz, no dinner
included (F/M/-)

Day Date Description

1 06.08.2015 Arrival in Lima & Bus-/night bus to Huaraz (3.052 m), accommodation in
hotel/hostel in Huaraz, no meals included (-/-/-)
2 07.08.2015 Huaraz - Ishinca basecamp (refuge - 4.350 m) / transfer to Cochapampa (3.400
m), ascent ca. 5 - 6 hours (ca. 950 m altitude difference), accommodation in
the refuge or camp, all meals included (drinks in the refuge as well as shower
service have to be paid separately), (F/M/A)
3 08.08.2015 Ascent Urus (5.495 m) / 1.150 m altitude difference – round trip ca. 6 – 8 h,
accommodation in the refuge or camp, all meals included (drinks in the refuge
as well as shower service have to be paid separately), (F/M/A)
4 09.08.2015 Ascent Ishinca (5.530 m) / 1.200 M altitude difference – round trip ca. 8 – 10
h, accommodation in the refuge or camp, all meals included (drinks in the
refuge as well as shower service have to be paid separately), (F/M/A)
5 10.08.2015 Rest day (4.350 m) - accommodation in the refuge or camp, all meals included
(drinks in the refuge as well as shower service have to be paid separately),
(F/M/A)
6 11.08.2015 Base camp – high camp Tocllaraju (5.300 m) – 1.000 M altitude difference, ca.
4 - 5 h, incl. porters for high camp equipment, accommodation in the high
camp (2-person-tents), (F/M/A)
7 12.08.2015 Ascent Tocllaraju (6.034 m) – base camp Ishinca (4.350 m) – ca. 700 M
altitude difference – round trip ca. 9 h, incl. porters for the evacuation of the
camp, accommodation in the refuge or camp, all meals included (drinks in the
refuge as well as shower service have to be paid separately), (F/M/A)

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 Day Date Description
8 13.08.2015 Base camp - Huaraz (3.052 m) – ca. 4 h descent to Cochapampa (3.400 m),
Accommodation in hotel/hostel in Huaraz, no dinner included, (F/M/-)
9 14.08.2015 Rest day in Huaraz (3.052 m), accommodation in hotel/hostel in Huaraz,
Dinner and lunch not included (F/-/-)
10 15.08.2015 Huaraz - Quebrada Llanganunco (3.850 m) / Moraine camp (4.800 m) ca. 950
M altitude difference / 6 – 8 hours tour time, accommodation in camp with all
meals included (F/M/A)
11 16.08.2015 Moraine camp – Camp I (5.300 m) / ca. 5 hours ascent, 500 M altitude
difference, accommodation in camp with all meals included (F/M/A)
12 17.08.2015 Camp I – Chopicalqui summit (6.354 m) – Moraine camp (4.900 m) / 9 – 11
hours round trip, ca. 1.100 M altitude difference, accommodation in camp
with all meals included (F/M/A)
13 18.08.2015 Moraine camp - Base camp – Huaraz / descent to Quebrada Llanganuco ca. 5
hours, accommodation in hotel/hostel in Huaraz, no dinner included (F/M/-)
14 19.08.2015 Rest day in Huaraz (3.052 m), accommodation in hotel/hostel in Huaraz,
dinner and lunch not included (F/-/-)
15 20.08.2015 Huaraz – Cashapampa (2.900 m) - Camp Llamacorral (3.900 m) / 4 – 5 hours
ascent, ca. 1.000 M altitude difference, accommodation in camp with all
meals included (F/M/A)
16 21.08.2015 Llamacorral – base camp Alpamayo (4.300 m) / 4 – 5 hours ascent, ca. 400 M
altitude difference, accommodation in camp with all meals included (F/M/A)
17 22.08.2015 Base camp – high camp Alpamayo (5.350 m) – 1.100 M altitude difference /
ca. 6 – 7 hours ascent, accommodation in camp with all meals included
(F/M/A)
18 23.08.2015 Ascent Alpamayo (5.947 m) – base camp / ca. 14 hours round trip, ca. 700 M
altitude difference during the ascent, ca. 1.700 M altitude difference for the
descent, accommodation in camp with all meals included (F/M/A)
19 24.08.2015 Base camp - Camp Llamacorral (3.900 m) / ca. 4 hours descent,
accommodation in camp with all meals included (F/M/A)
20 25.08.2015 Llamacorral – Huaraz / descent to Cashapmapa ca. 4 hours, transfer to
Huaraz, accommodation in hotel/hostel in Huaraz, no dinner included (F/M/-)
21 26.08.2015 Extra day in Huaraz - departure night bus to Lima, no lunch and dinner
included (F/-/-)
22 27.08.2015 Departure Lima – home destination, no meals included (-/-/-)

Services included:

 English – and German speaking tour leader & guides during the whole trip (from/to Lima
– Huaraz in case the acclimatization package is booked as well)
 Transfers & transportation (from/to Lima) for the scheduled program
 Certified mountain guide – ASEGUIM/UIAGM (f. Tocllaraju, Chopicalqui and Alpamayo
max. 2 persons / mountain guide, other acclimatization summits and tours in bigger rope
teams)
 Accommodation as per program in simple hotels / hostels in double rooms or 2-person-
tents on the mountain
 Food as per program
 Camping- and cooking equipment (except isolation mat and sleeping bag)

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 Kitchen- and eating tent
 Porters for the high camps (for high camp equipment, private equipment incl. sleeping
bag and isolation mat have to be carried by the participants themselves)
 Donkeys and donkey drivers for transport of the equipment to the base camp
 1 information event before the expedition (might be via Skype)

Not included:

 Travel to / departure from Lima (from home)

 Entrance fee for the National Park (ca. 20 – 30 USD for the whole expedition)
 Private equipment (climbing equipment, isolation mat, sleeping bag, boots etc.)
 Porters for private equipment (can be ordered if required / ca. 80 USD per day incl. food,
transportation and accommodation)
 Accommodation fees in case of program changes
 Drinks on the refuge in the Ishinca Valley (week 1)
 Food in Huaraz (except breakfast in hotel / hostel)
 Travel-, accident-, health-, cancellatoin or any other insurances
 Tips

Confirmed and guaranteed tour & participant maximum:

The tour is confirmed and guaranteed.

Maximum number of participants: 10 persons

Term for application:

Applications / bookings for / of this expedition are possible until May 10, 2016.

Prices:

In order to offer the most competitive pricing we offer in USD and convert to EUR at the time
of booking if payment to an Austrian account in EUR is desired.

Total tour (06.08. - 27.08.2016): from USD 4.190,--

Only block 1 & 2 (06.08. – 20.08.2016): from USD 2.590,--

Acclimatization package (02.08.-05.08.2016): from USD 370,--

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Mode of payment: Bank transfer (EURO-account in Austria or USD-account in Ecuador) or
services like Western Union or MoneyGram. All transaction and foreign exchange fees related
to the payment are on the participant’s account.

Surcharge for single room: USD 20,-- / night (only in hotels/hostels in Huaraz possible)

Estimate for not included services: ca. 200 - 300 USD (not included meals, tips, park entrance
fee), depending on arrival and departure of the participant as well as personal preferences.

Payment and cancellation terms:

100 % payable at the time of booking

Cancellation:

Up to 90 days before tour start – total amount less handling fees is refunded.

89 - 30 days before tour start – 50 % les handling fees is refunded.

29 and less days before tour start – no refund.

Effecting payments or partial payments, participants accept the terms and conditions
mentioned in the present program.

Prerequisites for participation:

Participants have plenty of experience in alpine tours as well as moderate knowledge of

techniques required in ice and snow (comfort in exposed glaciers without rope up to 35°).
Furthermore participants count with a physical condition which allows daily trip times of more
than 10 hours (as per program), carrying their own equipment including sleeping bags and
isolation mats.

Tocllaraju, Chopicalqui and especially Alpamayo are technically highly difficult climbs.

The equipment for the high camps (food, kitchen equipment, cooker, ropes, etc.) will be
carried by the porters starting from the base camp. Personal equipment (incl. sleeping bag,
clothing etc.) has to be carried by the participants themselves (porters for personal equipment
can be booked for an additional fee). The ascent involves moderately steep snow and ice
climbing to 65 degrees and expedition members will require a background on this type of
terrain. For Alpamayo, previous ice climbing experience is required.

andean summit adventure reserves the right to decide about participation in the expedition
based on the applicants experience. Therefore, applicants have to provide respective
information about their experience in the application form.

An indispensable prerequisite for the participation in the tour is the proof of respective travel,
health and accident insurance coverage.

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Insurance:

Our recommendation – applicable for Europe: Besides joining your national Alpine or
Mountaineering Club (which often includes insurances covering evacuation cost) we
recommend the products of Allianz group. In any case please make sure that your insurance
covers expeditions / mountaineering up to at least 6.000 m. Many providers of coverage have
their altitude limit at 5.000 m.

In case assistance is needed regarding the selection of your insurance, let us know, we are
pleased to help you.

Recommendations:

The proposed program hardy includes time for acclimatization. Due to this, participants have
to arrange their own acclimatization and training programs in their surroundings (alpine tours
in the Alps or other high mountain ranges). In case you want to acclimatize directly in Huaraz,
we are pleased to assist you with scheduling and organizing your acclimatization program OR
you simply book our acclimatization package (subject to a minimum of 4 participants for the
mentioned price).

A detailed equipment and packing list will be provided to the participants once the application
term is closed.

List of abbreviations:

F – Breakfast (on the mountain with tea/coffee/cacao/water)

M – Lunch or lunch box (on the mountain with tea/coffee/cacao/water)

A – Dinner (on the mountain with tea/coffee/cacao/water)

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Our Team:

The team of Andean Summit Adventure has its headquarters in Ecuador and operates
expeditions in the South American Andes range.

Responsible for our Peru expedition are Jaime Vargas (certified ASEGUIM mountain guide) and
Elisabeth Gschösser (tour leader), they will accompany you starting form Lima / Huaraz,
depending on your booking modalities.

Jaime Vargas Elisabeth Gschösser

ASEGUIM Mountain Guide Tour Leader

Expedition Assistant Germany:

Lukas Nußbaum

Contact details:

Email: info@andeansummitadventure.com | www.andeansummitadventure.com

Skype: andean summit adventure

Viber: +593 968 9595 33

WhatsApp: +43 664 501 2049

Tel: +593 9959 21241 | +593 968 9595 33

In case you want to schedule your individual information call, please drop us a message in
order to fix date and time.

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Application form

Name: Surname:

Street: Postal Code:

City: Country:

Email: Tel. Number:

Date of birth:

Limitations catering / others:

(e.g. vegetarian, allergies etc.)

Proof of experience / tours:

(max. 5 years, only relevant alpine tours – glacier, rock, ice)

Date: Target: Route: Comments:

Other information:

Passport No. Nationality:

Signature:
(With my signature I confirm the correctness of my indications and the acceptance of the mentioned terms and conditions
for this expedition.)

For internal use:

Tour proofs sufficient: O Yes O No Comment:
Insurance coverage: O Yes O No Comment:
Payment: O Yes O No Comment:

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