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Materials Today: Proceedings 4 (2017) 6105–6110 www.materialstoday.com/proceedings

STEMa2016

Development and characterization of nano-cream preparation


containing natural extract using nanoemulsion techniques
Kalyakorn Charoenkula and Darinee Phromyothina,b,*
College of Nanotechnology, King Mongkut’s Institute of Technology Ladkrabang,
a

Chalongkrong Rd., Ladkrabang, Bangkok, 10520 Thailand


bNanotec-KMITL Center of Excellence on Nanoelectronic Devices, King Mongkut’s Institute of Technology Ladkrabang,

Chalongkrong Rd., Ladkrabang, Bangkok 10520, Thailand

Abstract

The objective of this study is to investigate the formulation, preparation and characterization of nano-cream from squalene in
olive oil, virgin coconut oil and turmeric using nanoemulsion techniques. The ‘shock method’ via a phase inversion temperature
(PIT) was prepared the nanoemulsion which was kinetically stable system, comprised of oil droplets dispersed in aqueous media
using tween 80 and span 80 as emulsifier and stabilized by nonylphenol ethoxylate as surfactant, respectively. Characterization
and evaluation were generally carried out by preliminary characterization, pH, conductivity, determinations of particle size and
thermal stability. The obtained nanoemulsion from squalene and virgin coconut oil with the ratio 0.5:3.6 was cloudy white color
with an average particle size of 400 nm and stable without any phase separation. Nanoemulsions with the addition of turmeric
were opaque yellow and particle size is found to decrease to 200 nm.

© 2017 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.


Selection and Peer-review under responsibility of International Conference on Science and Technology of the Emerging
Materials.

Keywords: Nanoemulsions; Squalene; Virgin Coconut Oil; Turmeric; Phase Inversion Temperature

* Corresponding author. Tel+66-2-329-8000 ext 3133, FAX: +66-2-329-8265.


E-mail address: darinee.ph@kmitl.ac.th

2214-7853 © 2017 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.


Selection and Peer-review under responsibility of International Conference on Science and Technology of the Emerging Materials.
6106 K. Charoenkul and D. Phromyothin / Materials Today: Proceedings 4 (2017) 6105–6110

1. Introduction

Nanotechnology has been widely well known in a variety of fields including cosmetics. The use of cosmetics and
personal care products as a means to improve skin quality and an appearance is well accepted globally. The
nanotechnology has been applied to quality products in order to improve the stability of the substance absorbed into
the skin, as well as to enhance the quality of that cosmetic. The consumers have currently turned their attention to the
product, which use of various natural for their healthy and care. Probably that consumer feels more natural, safe and
healthy due to the market trend rather than the product that contains synthetic substances. This leads the case study
of the use of natural extract in emulsion.
This work is basically conducted the case study of preparation process and analysis on the feature of nano-cream
made from an extract of the squalene in olive oil, virgin coconut oil and turmeric using nanoemulsion technique.
Nano-cream was developed from nanoemulsion preparing by the phase inversion temperature emulsification process
(PIT) [1,2]. Phase inversion temperature was to heat and rapidly cool the system. The ratio of these substances is an
appropriate factor. Meanwhile the particle size of cream in nanoscale is influential to lead the rapid absorption into
the skin.
The squalene oil is an extract found in plants, animals and humans [4,5]. For the one found in humans, it can be
produced by the liver and circulates in human bloodstream. Nevertheless, human bodies will begin producing less
amount of squalene oil when become elder and elder. Normally the squalene oil is gradually decreased at the age of
20 years and over. The squalene oil is to seep into the skin quickly. It is also to reduce dryness of the skin and to
make skin more flexibility, retain moisture, smooth and soft. Squalene oil is not stable enough for use in products,
like skin care products. Squalane is derived from squalene, and is the more stable form of this molecule [6]. In this
case study, the use of squalane from the olive oil has been chosen. There is colorless and odorless. It has high
antioxidant found only in olive fruit and definitely suitable for all skin types.
In terms of virgin coconut oil, it will be extracted from the virgin cold pressed coconut oil cold. It has more
vitamin B which is important ingredients of the antioxidants and collagen to reduce wrinkle skin.
Extracted turmeric was then added with a nanometer scale into the cream for enhancement. Yellow color of
turmeric is a substance of curcumin that heals and nourish the skin to become shiny, smooth and natural. In the
process of preparation, the cream at the nanoscale level is to study the effect of particle size regarding
‘Homogenization’ and the appropriated aspect ratio. The main objective is to focus on the ingredients of the nano-
cream, which is definitely suitable and natural to human skin.

2. Experimental

2.1. Materials

Nanoemulsions were developed from natural extracts using the following cosmetic grade of: turmeric extract,
squalene in olive oil and virgin coconut oil were purchased from Chanchao Longevity. Tween 80 (AR grade) was
obtained from Acros Organics. Span 80 and nonylphenol ethoxylate (NP9) were supplied by Sigma-Aldrich.

2.2. Preparation and characterization of nanoemulsion

Nanoemulsions were prepared from turmeric, squalene and coconut oil. Span80 and Tween80 were used as
hydrophilic emulsifier in the oil phase and lipophilic emulsifier in the aqueous phase, respectively. NP9 was added
as nonionic surfactant and deionized water was used for a sample preparation. The ratios of squalene and coconut oil
were examined to find the stability of nanoemulsion as 0.1:4.0, 0.3:3.8, 0.5:3.6, 0.7:3.4 and 0.9:3.2, respectively. Then
0.05% of turmeric extract was added to the best ratio condition of nanoemulsion.
K. Charoenkul and D. Phromyothin / Materials Today: Proceedings 4 (2017) 6105–6110 6107

In this experiment, the emulsions of oil in water were prepared by stirrer for 30 minutes under ambient temperature,
then homogenization process at 0, 10, 15, 30, 45 and 60 minutes was examined at 4000 rpm. The thermal stability of
emulsion was measured under processing conditions at low temperature (4◦C), high temperature (40◦C) and under
ambient temperature. Conductivity and pH were measured every day. The particle size was determined using
dynamic light scattering method at 25◦C.

3. Results and Discussions

3.1. Preparation of nanoemulsions

The ratio of squalene and coconut oil was as 0.1:4.0, 0.3:3.8, 0.5:3.6, 0.7:3.4 and 0.9:3.2 that examined to find the
stability by conductivity.

Table 1. The ratio of squalene and coconut oil and conductivity


Formulation The ratio of squalene and Squalene (%)* Coconut oil (%)* Conductivity (µS/cm)
coconut oil
i 0.1:4.0 0.1 4.0 69.7
ii 0.3:3.8 0.3 3.8 54.5
iii 0.5:3.6 0.5 3.6 29.3
iv 0.7:3.4 0.7 3.4 47.2
v 0.9:3.2 0.9 3.2 58.4
*Note: The total of emulsion was 100 ml (100% v/v)

From table 1, conductivity depended on the ratio of squalene and coconut oil which the formulation iii) had a
stability emulsion (0.5:3.6). Other Formulation had high conductivity that cannot stable after a day.
The optimized ratio for the preparation of emulsions from squalene and coconut oil was 0.5:3.6 with the average
size of 3,000 nm. The pH and conductivity of emulsion was 5.33±0.1 and 29.3±0.2 µS/cm. After that this emulsion
was then sonicated at 4000 rpm by homogenizer at 0, 10, 15, 30, 45 and 60 minutes. The smallest droplet size was
400 nm when homogenized 60 minutes after 14 days’ preparation.

Fig. 1. Droplet Size of emulsion at 0, 10, 15, 30, 45 and 60 minutes by homogenizer of squalene and coconut oil
6108 K. Charoenkul and D. Phromyothin / Materials Today: Proceedings 4 (2017) 6105–6110

From fig. 1, the particle size depended on time of homogenization and time of leaving the emulsion, which was
decreased after long homogenization and after leaving for 14 days that lead to the destruction of bonds in molecules
and unstable and brakes down of emulsion. So we choose the short time to the optimum condition of nanoemulsion
that also remains the stabled nanoemulsion within 14 days.
The optimal pH of human skin is 5.5. The pH of nano-cream that suitable is 5-6. In this experiment, the range of
pH was 5-5.5. Considering the conductivity, the results lead to stability of nanoemulsion with the range of 0-14
µS/cm as shown in fig. 2.

Fig. 2. Relation of conductivity in emulsion at 0, 10, 15, 30, 45 and 60 minutes by homogenizer

From fig. 2., conductivity was increased that shown stability of emulsion after 14 days of preparation. For the
process condition of nanoemulsion, it was stable for 27±2 days under ambient temperature, 20±2 days at low
temparature and 15±2 days at high temperature.

3.2. Developed size of nanoemulsion by turmeric

A 0.05% of extracted turmeric powder was added to the ratio 0.5:3.6 of squalene and coconut oil. The emulsion
was then homogenized at 4000 rpm by at 0, 10, 15, 30, 45 and 60 minutes. The results show 45 minute of
homogenizer provided the smallest droplet with average size 200 nm after 14 days of preparation. The added
turmeric power lead to decreased size of nanoemulsion due to the turmeric nano particle (200 nm) might be inserted
between emulsion molecules.
K. Charoenkul and D. Phromyothin / Materials Today: Proceedings 4 (2017) 6105–6110 6109

Fig. 3. Droplet Size of emulsion at 0, 10, 15, 30, 45 and 60 minutes by homogenizer of turmeric, squalene and coconut oil

From fig. 3, the particle size of emulsion was decreased after adding turmeric powder in emulsion and leaving 14
days. Turmeric had let to broken down bonding in molecules that the result of emulsion was smaller than no adding
turmeric. Droplet size of 45 min by homogenizer of mixture presented the smallest size.

4. Conclusion

The ratio of nanoemulsions from squalene and virgin coconut oil that remain stable formulation and provide the
smallest droplet size was 0.5:3.6. The size of emulsion was decreased from 3,000 nm to 400 nm when homogenized
at 60 minutes after 14 days. Extracted turmeric was added to optimum ratio of squalene and coconut oil and presents
the decreased droplet with the average 200 nm when homogenized at 45 minutes.

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