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Americade 2010 • Adventures of Madeleine • Dog Days of Summer

W H A T ’ S I N S I D E
M O N T H LY C O L U M N S F E AT U R E S
FREE WHEELIN’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 SHIRA’S SUMERTIME ICE CREAM RIDE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
AMERICADE 2010 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
WHATCHATHINKIN’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
DOGS ON THE DELAWARE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 THE MADELIENE ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
ON THE MARK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 TURKEY, BULGARIS AND ROMANIA ON TWO WHEELS . . . . . . . . 42
THE BIRTHDAY RIDE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
INDUSTRY INFOBITES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
MOTORCYCLING ADVENTURES IN THE PHILIPPINES . . . . . . . . . . 58
BACKLASH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
PRODUCT REVIEWS
GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
MYSTERIOUS AMERICA. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
WE’RE OUTTA HERE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
BIG CITY GETAWAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil ~ Publishers

Contributors: Ken Aiken, Ralph Angelo, Jr, Adrian Blake, Christopher Bowling,
Mark Byers, Bill Heald, Burt Richmond, Mike Stackhouse, Dr. Seymour O’Life
BACKROADS • POB 317, Branchville NJ 07826

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure Phone 973.948.4176 • Fax 973.948.0823 • email editor@backroadsusa.com • web www.backroadsusa.com
For Advertising Sales Information: 973-948-4176
BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2010. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the pub-
lisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient
postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the
sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear
and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.
TEST RIDES EVERY DAY

THE SUN SHINES
Come by today and take yours for a spin
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010 Page 3
Page 4 AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS
increased
from $10,000 to $52,000 from 1995 to 2009, and then in December 2009
they demanded $102,000, double the already outrageous amount.
FREE WHEELIN’
Why “outrageous”?
Brian Rathjen
Well, the lot is officially closed to the public Monday through Friday in
early June so they would derive nearly $0 from that property if Americade
AMERICADE WOES
At this year’s Americade we were bom- were not there. Furthermore, during Americade their campgrounds are all
barded by rumors about the rally and its full, so forgetting the $46 million economic impact, even Department of
future. Some said this was it - the last Americade. Others stated that the rally Environmental Conservation, the people in charge of the property, would be
would be moving to another location, possibly another state. Still others said hurting their own income if Americade had to leave.
the State of New York and Albany were gouging event founder Bill Dutcher Dutcher and Americade, in addition, have to spend over $100,000 mak-
and were making the event cost prohibitive to him to run. ing the lot into a tradeshow and then tearing it all down a week later. And
We went in search of Bill to get they have to totally indemnify NYS DEC as
the lowdown on the entire issue. well as post a damage deposit, and always
What we found out is truly repair any damage to the lot and surrounding
WHAT PART OF FILLING AN OTHERWISE
beyond the pale. park.

EMPTY TIME IN LAKE GEORGE
For those of you who have been It appears that New York State sees
DOESN’T THE DEC UNDERSTAND?
heading to Lake George as many Americade as their Cash Cow, but anyone
times as we have - this was our who knows the M/C biz, knows there are no
20th Americade - you know that cash cows left, including Americade.
things have evolved and changed This year’s demand $102,000 demand
over the years. “shrank” to merely $72,000 after a letter to
Back in the mid-’90s Dutcher DEC’s Commissioner which pointed out
approached the State of New York that the (lumpy, seagull-crap-covered,
with a proposal to utilize the park- drains in wrong direction) parking lot
ing lot at Million Dollar Beach for should be free to the convention which pro-
a giant outdoor vendor area. vides that $46 million shot in the arm, as
At this time of year the parking well as a pro-Americade editorial in the
lot was empty and they have never Albany Times Union. (Nonetheless, $72k is
derived any income from that park- still a 36% increase during an economic
ing lot, other than the people who park there in the summer to swim in the depression) Their fee is slated to rise to about $87,000 next year. A local
lake. Lake George is a deep and cold lake, so very few folks try to swim in motel owner has offered to cover the extra $15k but Americade still needs a
it before the end of June. fair, multi-year contract in order to stay in NYS. How can you plan when
In Bill’s words, “When I offered them $10,000 in 1994, they were you don’t know the price several years out?
delighted with this found money.” He went on to tells us how the fees (Continued on Page 24)
W H ATC H AT H I N K I N ’
SHIRA KAMIL
RIDING LIKE A VULCAN

Later on in this issue, you’ll read about a ride I had planned which went a bit awry. It certainly was noth-
ing earth shattering, but it was enough to set me seething. As much as Brian tried to calm me down, I was
going to be angry with myself until the cauldron bubbled out. From the moment I felt the heat rising, I knew
way back in my brain that I wasn’t concentrating as I should on the task at hand, and that was piloting a
motorcycle.
Having to ‘hit the highway’ when planning on meandering along the small country roads of NJ and PA, I
completely ignored the speed limit, racing to get off the large tarmac as quickly as possible. With Brian’s
voice in my helmet berating me for making bonehead passes and urging me to slow down, I just got angri-
er, all the time knowing that nothing good would come of this. Arriving at our destination, the balloon burst
with the sight of a ‘closed’ sign and the boiling water rushed out of my head.
Typically, I have a very even-tempered attitude. I try my best to look on the bright side of life, as Monty
Python puts it, and don’t get upset over things that I can’t change. Well, I obviously disregarded my own fol-
lowings on this occasion. For a short ten-mile stretch of less-than-desirable roadway, I put myself, and those
around me, in harm’s path.
Adopting a Vulcan demeanor while riding is a good thing. There are too many outside forces at work to
let them get into your head, disrupting your concentration or just your particular train of thought at that
moment. While stuck, on a hot steamy summer day, in a work zone while your body temperature is on the
rise, try to keep your inner self in the cool zone. If that Soccer Mom happens to pull a pinhead move in front
of you because she’s too busy talking/texting/disciplining her kids, be prepared by being aware and not get-
ting lost in a daydream mode.
Recently, I’ve found myself poking around on my Garmin while I should be paying attention to what’s
happening around me, simply because I’m at a slow pace on a very lightly traveled roadway and feel ‘at ease’
with the surroundings. I realize that for the past 20-30 seconds I have not been seeing what’s in front, behind
or to the sides of where I am. Stupid move; lesson learned. If I’m no better than the texter in the car, how can
I criticize?
Just as dangerous is becoming complacent with your surroundings. There are a number of byways and
small roads around Backroads Central that we use for a short hop or quick lunch/errand ride. As much as I’d
like to think that I know these roads like the back of my hand, there are always variables to be added to the
equation. The slow farm vehicle pulling out in front of you, the many critters around this time of year, the
impatient driver behind you sitting on your ass; Whatever the x-factor, if you are too busy in your own head,
having a bad day and fuming about it, or fiddling with something that’s best left for when the bike is stopped,
these things are ready and waiting to ruin your day. Take a deep breath, realize where and what you’re doing
and put yourself in the right frame of mind.
Let’s take a look at emotions and how they may affect your riding. Of course anger, in any form, can com-
pletely shut off your reasoning abilities. But what about depression or sadness? These surely can close your
eyes to what’s about you, as you are so caught up in your own funk that the outside world is a blur.
Happiness? I really can’t see anything wrong with riding while happy, other than your eyes may be closed
due to the huge grin on your face. Try not to do that.
Try not to wear your emotions on your riding jacket sleeve. If you find yourself angry, upset, depressed,
anxious or anything that might take your concentration away from your riding, turn the key to the left and
take a moment. If something happens while you’re riding, find a peaceful stop to regroup. Your riding will
be better for it and it might just stop something more awful from happening. To take some words from the
best loved Vulcan ever to live, ‘Live Long and Prosper’ • dif-tor heh smusma.
too slow, and a bit crude, yes, but still a start in the right direction I think. I
don’t know if AireTronics is around anymore, but there is a company called
POSTCARDS
Armored Air Jackets that looks to have a very similar product line.
FROM THE HEDGE
The Dainese D-Air System is a very different creature. The company
started experimenting back in 1995 with a system that was deployed from
BILL HEALD
the helmet, and while this was never put into operation it really was useful
LET’S GET SOME AIR
in showing how complicated the problem is, and how many different disci-
If you pay attention to the MotoGP
plines come into play on the engineering front to make this work. Key
Championship; that wild, incredibly exciting roadracing series that is truly
objectives include super-fast deployment (like the airbags in cars), and a
the pinnacle of the sport, you no doubt are aware of Multi-time World
compact design that in no way interferes with the rider’s mobility, comfort
Champion Valentino Rossi’s practice crash in Italy where he badly broke his
or aerodynamic profile. After it goes off it needs to be fast and easy to
right leg. Actually, even if you don’t pay attention to the series he still frac-
remove (but not until the rider or safety worker wants it removed), and most
tured his tibia, but he fortunately seems on the mend and will return to the
importantly it has to have a deployment system that is completely reliable,
saddle before year’s end. He’s a true competitor and a very charismatic
only goes off when it’s supposed to, and is physically independent from the
character, and is handling the situation with his typical good cheer.
bike.
I mention this incident because this particular crash not only had huge
As of now, Dainese has a competition system for their professional riders
ramifications for the ultimate points battle, but it also was interesting in that
that is completely self-contained and uses sophisticated sensors (including
Rossi was wearing some serious state-of-the-art protective gear. Obviously
accelerometers) to signal when the bag needs to pop out of the suit and do
he still broke his leg, but his Dainese leathers with an on-board air bag sys-
its thing. A similar street version has sensors that also have to be placed on
tem apparently helped protect him from further injury, primarily in the neck
the motorcycle, but to the best of my knowledge there’s still no physical
and upper back region. Valentino said as much in a Q &A session conduct-
tether to the motorcycle. While the technology is still in the early stages of
ed by his Fiat Yamaha Team communication’s manager:
real-world testing in MotoGP and other race series, the early incidents
“I remember everything perfectly,” said Vali from his hospital bed. “I did-
where these bags have been deployed have been quite promising. This will
n’t hit my head, I didn’t hit anything else. The airbag in my leathers worked
be a really fascinating thing to watch as over time the complexity, weight
very well and my helmet was just slightly scratched. I don’t have a single
and (most important for the likes of us) the cost should come down dramat-
bruise! The problem was that I landed on my leg, and it was stuck under my
ically and we should see street applications that are dramatically better than
body. If I had landed on my back it would have been different.”
what’s out there now. Dainese has pointed out that with all the considerable
The airbag system, which Dainese says they’ve been working on for a
engineering complexity of a viable on-body airbag system, there are even
very long time, is designed a bit differently than some street systems that
less obvious hurdles to overcome such as the fact that “there are laws and
have been out for a while. Back in 2006 I got to play around with a vest and
regulations to be respected, such as those governing the transport of explo-
jacket from a company called AireTronics, which had an airbag with a real-
sive materials, for example.”
ly simple deployment system. The airbag gets inflated by classic old CO2
Of course, when we have so many idiots who dress like they’re watering
cartridges, which do their thing if you leave the motorcycle without unclip-
the lawn instead of riding a motorcycle, that’s something we have to work
ping the jacket from its tethering cable (whether you crash or just forget to
on as well. Let’s do our best, brothers and sisters of the loyal order of
deactivate it when you get off the bike. Oops). If you are separated from the
ATGATT. The gear just keeps getting better if only folks would wear it.
bike, the tether simply yanks a cable that punctures the cartridge and the
vest/jacket inflates, hopefully before you hit the terra firma. This is arguably
sure indication I should have gone lower, but it was fair. I was in possession
of enough faculties to make it contingent upon a successful inspection and
ON THE MARK
test ride; however, I had high confidence it was a fine specimen because
Dangerous is not only a great rider, but an ace mechanic.
MARK BYERS
I could barely contain myself at work the next day. After a short trip to
the bank to make a substantial withdrawal from my wife’s account, I raced
DOCTOR Z
As the Pop Tart sang, “Oops, I did it again.” off to meet Dangerous, Tiny Tim,
For several months, I’ve been reliving my lost and South Park Josh for the 60-
youth on a Suzuki DR-200 dual-sport, and having a ball doing so. A couple mile ride to the dealer. DD and TT
Sundays ago, I was chatting with Dangerous Dan and a few of the boys after were resplendent in TT’s yellow
a ride. I was covered in the drying, glorious trappings of a trailside mud- EML sidecar rig attached to a
spa treatment applied by a cross-rutted lowside into a giant puddle. After a BMW GS, as the plan was for me
couple creek crossings, the sun-warmed muck felt really good and I had to to ride the new steed home while
resist the urge to wallow there like a fat elk, but I digress. During the post- Dangerous piloted my SV-650. I
mortem, the talk turned to bikes (surprise) and I complimented Dangerous was already armed with insurance
on his Suzuki DR-Z400, saying I’d like to have one some day. and a transfer tag, because when
“Well,” said he, “I looked at a really clean 2003 DR-Z400 a couple days we’re on a bike acquisition mis-
ago. Are you ready to stop talking smack and do something about it?” I sion, we have our logistics wired
really should have been more specific with that “some day” statement, but tight. In fact, if we knew there was a bike that we wanted stored in Bin
Dan’s words were the equivalent of a double-dog dare and no man can let Laden’s garage, we’d not only have his address, but he’d be dead right now.
such a challenge go unanswered. The next thing I knew, a trip was arranged A spirited ride over one of our favorite roads brought us to the dealership
to inspect the beast at a dealership with disgustingly convenient after-work and I went right to work with a flashlight, checking all the things that need-
hours that effectively quashed any of my excuses. ed to be checked and a few more. An effervescent test ride brought me back
It gets worse: massive research ensued through the “Oracle of Google” with a smile and a willingness to fork over the missus’ hard-earned for my
and various enthusiast web sites until I could quote the “FAQs” of several latest two-wheeled mischief machine. I don’t think the salesman ever had
verbatim. I knew which bits need sealing, which ones to Loc-tite, the ram- a deal go quite so quickly and we were soon off to a Greek place for the sus-
ifications of various cam-chain tensioners, the best gearings, the recom- tenance required to get us home. No pizza tastes better than one shared with
mended tires, and the specific gravity of the coolant. OK, I didn’t really riding buddies right after acquisition of a new machine.
know that last one, but I was in an information feeding frenzy that would The ride home was also spirited, with the added entertainment of seeing
have made a school of sharks envious. Most importantly, I was armed with Tiny “flying the chair” as the sidecar no longer had six-plus feet of
book values from several different sources. Dangerous for ballast. The contrast between the SV and the DR was readi-
But wait, there’s more. After doing exhaustive electronic research, I called ly apparent, as the DR felt like I was riding a skyscraper by comparison, but
the dealer and asked a few pointed questions. He supplied the correct the Trail Wings were up to the task and the thumper’s torque was a real
answers and before I knew it, a tentative offer erupted from my lips. “I’ll smile-maker. Now it’s time to “personalize” her with a few choice changes
have to talk to the sales manager” came the well-rehearsed reply. It wasn’t designed to make her a better woods-thrasher. Hopefully, they’ll be just
ten minutes before my cell phone delivered the acceptance of the offer, a what Doctor Z ordered.
INDUSTRY INFOBITES NEWS FROM THE INSIDE
Due to extenuating circumstances the

GOOCH’S GARLIC NONE? PBTF AWARDS 154 COLLEGE SCHOLARSHIPS
Gooch’s Garlic Run took a new turn of This fall, 154 students affected by brain tumors will attend college with
FOR 2010-2011 ACADEMIC YEAR
events this year. The Blue Knights NJ the help of a Pediatric Brain Tumor Foundation(r) scholarship.
Chapter IX had not been issued a parking One of those students is Jeremy, a rising sophomore at Washington
permit for New York City for the rain date University in St. Louis. “For me, college is not just the next step after high
of June 23rd. Although the run would not school, but the gateway towards achieving my passion,” he says. “From my
be riding into New York City, they did experience having a brain tumor, the way I see to truly live life to the fullest
gather at the Rockaway Townsquare Mall. is to give back to others.”
This event has always been to raise money Giving back is a common theme among scholarship recipients. Many of
for sick children and that is what we still intend them say they want to work in medicine, social work, public health or the
to do. With the help of all of members, the nonprofit sector.
Rockaway Townsquare Mall, Rider Insurance, This year’s recipients include students from 39 states, from Hawaii to
Hilton Garden Inn, many vendors and a DJ, they did the Maine, who plan to attend vocational schools, community colleges and uni-
best they could for an event that almost didn’t happen. versities across the United States.
There were vendors selling food and goods and the music was playing. The PBTF has awarded a total of 787 scholarships since 2002. The pro-
They introduced the children they are helping and there was plenty of time gram is funded in part by the Tim and Tom Gullikson Family Support Fund
to check out all the motorcycles on this side of the river. New York can’t at the PBTF. For more information or to donate, please visit
and won’t.... hold us back from helping those in need. The motto this year www.rideforkids.org.
was... come early, leave late.
Stay tuned for what’s to become of the Gooch’s Garlic Run.
9TH ANNUAL KILLINGTON CLASSIC MOTORCYCLE TOURING
The Killington Classic is a low cost, great way to

RALLY EXTEND AN INVITATION TO VENDOR
reach a highly targeted audience. With early signs of

big growth (registration is up 100% since last year)
and marketing plans just heating up, it’s expected that
1,000 riders, their families and friends to attend.
Event planners are seeking
vendors who want to reach
out and support the touring
lifestyle, providing rid-
ers with unique
goods and services.
The Killington
Classic will not be
charging a space
fee. In lieu of the
fee, they are requir-
ing that an In-Kind
donation in the form of
a product, good or service
totaling $50 or more be sub-
mitted. If you have any questions please email bran-
deekozlar@killingtontown.com or call 802-422-2105.
Make sure you visit the Killington Classic
www.killingtonclassic.com website to fill out a ven-
dor application.
CALIFORNIA LAWMAKERS BACK

EPA COMPLIANT REQUIREMENT
Long Island KAWASAKI On June 28, the Committee on Transportation voted
FOR RIDERS OF NEW MOTORCYCLES
8-4 to approve Senate Bill 435, introduced by Sen.

Fran Pavley (D-Oxnard-Los Angeles), which would
67 North Broadway • Route 107 • Hicksville, NY
make it illegal to ride a motorcycle on the road built
www.LIKawasaki.com • 516-935-6969
on, or after, Jan. 1, 2011, that doesn’t display a feder-
al Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) label cer-
tifying the exhaust system meets sound emissions
standards.
Riders caught riding model year 2011 or newer
motorcycles without this stamp would be issued “fix
it” tickets by law enforcement officers.
The measure now goes to the Assembly
Appropriations Committee for further consideration.
“Many EPA labels are very difficult to locate on
motorcycles,” said AMA Western States
Representative Nick Haris. “This proposed law could
lead to a flurry of tickets for motorcyclists who have legal exhaust systems on their machines with EPA
labels that can’t be easily seen. It’s unreasonable to expect a law enforcement officer to easily locate an EPA
label, and it’s simply unfair to expect a motorcycle owner to partially dismantle an exhaust system along-
side the road to prove the label exists.
“Requiring that a motorcycle display a readily visible EPA label isn’t the correct way to address concerns
about excessive motorcycle sound,” he added. “The only objective way to determine whether a motorcycle
complies with sound laws is for properly trained personnel to conduct sound level tests using calibrated
meters and an agreed-upon testing procedure.”
Haris suggested that concerned California motorcyclists contact their state lawmakers and urge them to
reject Senate Bill 435. To do so, go to AmericanMotorcyclist.com > Rights > Issue & legislation and select
“CA” in the drop down menu.
This past issue of AAA magazine, AAA

THUMBS UP TO AAA
World, featured a two-page spread on motor-

cycle safety, learning to ride and how to be a
safer car driver around motorcycles. Thanks
for the nod, AAA, but you could have chosen
a better pseudonym than Alan ‘Rider’.
10TH ANNUAL POP’S RUN
In the ten years of this event, it’s managed

SUNDAY, AUG. 22
to raise over $37,000 for the Amyloid

Research Team at Boston University School
of Medicine. This money has allowed them
to purchase laboratory equipment and fund
research for the causes and treatment of
Amyloidosis.
Amyloidosis is a group of diseases in
which abnormal proteins accumulate in
organs of the body. There are several distinct
types of amyloidosis. One type is localized
in the brain and is known as Alzheimer’s
Disease. Other types affect the whole body
and over 3,000 persons are diagnosed with
those types each year. The most common
systemic type is a bone marrow disease that
can be treated with chemotherapy and stem
cell transplantation with favorable results; other types can be hereditary and new treatments are being devel-
oped for these. While great progress is being made in research toward finding more effective treatments and
a cure, more work needs to be done. Awareness is important as early diagnosis allows patients to be eligible
for the best treatment options.
Please join the run on Sunday, August 22, 2010. All proceeds from “Pop’s Run” go to the Amyloid
Research Team at Boston University School of Medicine. For more information visit www.popsrun.org.
BACKLASH LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

chapter of ABATE in North Jersey. For the next few months, this group will
be moving its meeting place to various North Jersey locations to give it a
Who’s Watching Out for Us
Brian,
greater exposure to the riders in the northern part of the state. The next
Ater reading your Free Wheelin’ columns in the May (The Raid) and June
monthly meeting will be held at the Chatterbox on Bike Night, at 7:30 PM
(Signs, Signs, Everywhere Signs) issues of Backroads, I couldn’t agree with
on Thursday, August 19. We would be very pleased if you and Shira and any
you more about the need for getting involved in motorcyclists’ rights. It’s
of your interested readers would come and visit with us. We’ll be happy to
already past the time that we can sit on the couch and do nothing. It’s not
explain our mission in detail and answer any questions about ABATE.
just coincidental that motorcyclists’ rights seem to be under attack, because
As I said earlier, it is past the time when we can all just sit back and be
they are. You correctly pointed out the great work being done at the nation-
passive about motorcycle rights. It is time to get involved to protect your
al level by the AMA (American Motorcyclist Association) to reign in fed-
passion! There is more to be discussed than there is room for here, so please
eral lawmakers and to advocate for riders’ rights. The AMA and also the
come on out to the Chatterbox on August 19. We’d love to meet you.
MRF (Motorcycle Riders Foundation) both do fantastic work to protect the
Regards,
rights we motorcyclists hold so dearly. They both lobby our federal law-
Jim Parker
makers for better and more fair laws affecting riders, and they both bring
Legislative Director, ABATE of the Garden State
lawsuits against those who discriminate against motorcyclists. I believe that
legislativedirector@gardenstateabate.org
we should all belong to and support both of these fine organizations.
I also believe that all politics is local, and that as motorcycle riders we all
Hi Brian,
need to take a proactive role in protecting our own rights. We are increas-
Having read your most recent Free Wheelin, I felt the inclination to write.
ingly coming under attack not only from the federal level, but also from
I have been riding for thirty-six years. I have never had anyone complain
state and local levels.
about the noise level emitted from my pipes (on any of the nine bikes that I
For any of your readers who may not be aware of how ABATE works; first
have owned). Why? Because I feel personally responsible to show motor-
of all, the acronym stands for American Bikers Aimed Toward Education.
cyclists as individuals in the best light, who care about the communities in
ABATE does the same kinds of work at the state level that the AMA and the
which they ride, the noise polution in their environment, riding safely and
MRF does at the national level. There is no national ABATE organization,
any other activity that is deemed disruptive by society.
so each state’s ABATE is completely independent of ABATE in other states.
I have total disdain for those in the motorcycling community who have to
Each state is autonomous, sets its own agenda and abides by its own set of
show-off their egos as being far bigger than their brains by riding with
bylaws. ABATE of the Garden State is dedicated to acting as a watchdog for
excessively loud pipes. The noise emitted by most aftermarket pipes just
all legislation coming out of Trenton that affects motorcyclists, and advo-
isn’t necessary! Loud Pipes DO NOT SAVE LIVES! They just piss ordinary
cating for better training and education for all motorcyclists as well as
people off! I am not suggesting that riders must go back to OEM pipes such
increased awareness of motorcycles by other motorists. We are working
as is now required in Denver and other cities. What I would like to see is
hard to be all-inclusive no matter what brand or style of motorcycle you
common sense used in the pipes that are placed on motorcycles!
may ride.
South Jersey has had a strong ABATE presence for many years, but a lot
of your readers may not be aware that there is now a growing and active
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Professional rider depicted on a closed course. ATVs with engine sizes of 90cc or greater are recommended for use only by riders ages 16 years and older. Yamaha recommends that all ATV
riders take an approved training course. For safety and training information, see your dealer or call the ATV Safety Institute at 1-800-887-2887. ATVs can be hazardous to operate. For your safe-
ty: Always avoid paved surfaces. Never ride on public roads. Always wear a helmet, eye protection and protective clothing; never carry passengers; never engage in stunt riding; riding and alco-
hol/drugs don’t mix; avoid excessive speed; and be particularly careful on difficult terrain. ©2009 Yamaha Motor Corp., U.S.A. Cypress, CA 90630.
If my noise is loud enough to bother my neighbors (either in a car or next from years back. Your publication was very helpful on planning the trip. The
door), then I am obviously being too loud! This also goes for people who Cabot Trail is a ride that everyone, especially in the Northeast, should com-
insist on driving with Base Speakers that can be heard more than 50’ away plete. The scenery was superb with winding up and down hills next to the
from their vehicle and the pieces of crap cars driven by wannabe suburban ocean where dolphin play. Lobster in any form is the highlight at dinner or
hoody daddys with altered exhausts! lunch. June is just before the “tourist” season begins so motels were cheap
During the last several years, municipalities all over the US have made and plentiful. The temperatures were 50 in am up to 73 in pm with not a
decisions to limit Motorcycle accessability to public and private property, cloud in the sky until the fog rolls in about sundown. We rode the trail both
severely fine those riding with loud aftermarket pipes (and demand OEM directions. Clockwise one day then counter clockwise the next. We returned
pipes be replaced), place regulations on Dirt Bike Exhausts within couty by taking the ferry to Prince Edward Island (no toll) for a slight change of
limits etc. This resentment, retaliation, regulation and discrimination is our scenery with farms and beautiful flowers everywhere.
own fault and due to a minority of inconsiderate assholes! It’s time to “Pipe Thanks again for the help. Your publication is fantastic. Customer service
Down!” as the old saying goes! is terrific!
The problem with loud pipes is that, as Pogo said years ago, “We Have Sincerely,
Met The Enemy and HE is us!” Harry Weber
Best Always to yourself and Shira
Sheldon Braffman
Reisterstown, Maryland
Harry,
We’re glad you had a great time. Nova Scotia is a great place to ride and
Brian,
it seems you covered a lot of it!
I just received your latest issue and I read with interest the letter from one
YOU OWE ME $$$
of your readers about the Chautauqua Institution. He and his wife had A couple issues back you did a little piece about Paint Bank, Virginia.
booked a B & B on the grounds and found out when they arrived that motor- Last month my wife and I were visiting nearby Alderson, West Virginia,
cycles were prohibited. He had quite a verbal battle with the B & B owner home of the federal lockup where Martha Stewart called home for awhile.
before he got his deposit returned. Chautauqua has a Facebook page and is We had a little spare time and decided to ride over to Paint Bank ( approx.
filled with all kinds of B.S. about what a welcoming place it is, and a great (Continued on Page 24)
source of spiritual renewal. Sounds like the kind of
place motorcyclists should be boycotting! If you are in
southwestern New York State, give this joint a wide
berth, folks!
Bruce Brown
Dear Brian and Shira,

Don’t know who wrote the “Riding with Kids” col-
WFO inc. Touring & Sport Accessories
umn, but it is good that someone decided to tackle it.
Luggage • Jackets • Pants • Boots • Rain Gear • Tools • Exhausts • Tires
For years, we have been fuming at the little kiddies on

Sprockets • Chains • Bar Risers • Brakes • Lines • Ramps • Lifts • OEM Parts
bikes with no gear on, pink toes sticking out of Barbie

sandals...
Sport ~ Touring ~ Cruiser
Even worse, what do you answer to a woman hold-
• Large Selection of Premium Helmets
ing a baby/toddler (the size that does not really hold
his own head up) who is asking if we make helmets in
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his size? Or the parent who wants his kid to try a hel-
• Track and Race Bike Set-Up
met on, but it should be something cheap, “because he
• Great Service and Reasonable Prices
will grow out of it in a year or two”? The kid’s head is
visibly not worth more than $100...
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If the parents can’t buy the proper gear, they should TRACK DAY HEADQUARTERS • NESBA Dealer
not have the kid on the bike.
If the kid does not understand that he/she will get
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skinned alive in case of a fall while wearing a little t-
Ph: 973-579-5103 • Email: wfomotosports@hotmail.com • Fax: 973-579-1806
shirt, he/she should not be on the bike...
Big hug,
Catherine Cycle Motion is your provider of
motorcycles, ATVs, scooters, snowmobiles,
Hi Brian & Shira, and utility vehicles by Kawasaki, Suzuki,
I stepped out of my office to get some lunch and to Polaris, and Yamaha. With a large parts
dig into the June issue. I have to say, Tony Lisanti’s department, qualified service technicians and
letter in Backlash is something alot of us have to agree a full shop full of parts and accessories, we're
with. Especially the part about what you do for us rid- here to meet all your power sport needs.
ers here in the North East. You guys are the best! Your
publication does make our sport that much more
enjoyable. Well said Tony!
I was very happy to see Jeffrey Kurtzman back in
the pages of Backroads. I, as well as others, have
missed his monthly column. What a great story 1269 DOLSONTOWN RD • MIDDLETOWN NY 10940
‘Decades’ is. Hope to one day find him again each 845-343-2552 • WWW.CYCLEMOTIONINC.COM
month.
Regards, For every rider - on or off road,
Mike Hoffmann
whether they like doing it in the dirt,
carving the twisties,
Dear Folks:
I just returned from a 6-day trip to Nova Scotia. This or cruising the backroads,
was prompted by an article which Shira provided me we have their weapon of choice.
G R E AT A L L A M E R I C A N D I N E R R U N tasty places to take your bike
But, before I knew it, it

was gone. “Isn’t that the
EVERYBODY MUST GET SCONED
way of things?” I mourned
Bill Heald
at the time. Little did I

292 ROUTE 169, SOUTH WOODSTOCK, CT know, they weren’t vanish-
MRS. BRIDGES PANTRY
860-963-7040 • WWW.MRSBRIDGESPANTRY.COM ing at all. They were just

One of the greatest pleasure about riding to lunch, is riding to moving to South Wood-
lunch to a place you found by accident. I first discovered Mrs. stock and ultimately getting
Bridges Pantry a few years ago when I was visiting Putnam, new ownership. Around
Connecticut, on a very mundane DMV errand (registering an Abarth 1992, Mrs. Bridges Pantry
Zagoto Double Bubble, no, wait: it was a Ford pickup). Putnam, nes- (named after the cook in
tled as it is in the quiet corner of NE Connecticut, is a really cool lit- the British classic Upstairs
tle town that had this amazing little shop at the end of Main Street. Downstairs) was created by
Mrs. Bridges Pantry was a source for all things British, including all Veronica Harris and Diana
kinds of cool trinkets, authentic food, some seriously dedicated knit- Jackson. Today, this excel-
ting practitioners, and most important of all: lots and lots of excellent teas. lent lunch stop is owned and operated by Pamela Spaeth and Susan
Swenson. Sue is originally from Staffordshire, England, and along with her
friend Pam was a regular customer of the Pantry and decided to go for it
when it was put up for
sale. They’ve done a terrif-
ic job of keeping the place
much as it was when it was
back in Putnam, and the
new locale is found in the
heart of some excellent,
picturesque riding country.
So, what’s for lunch?
The Pantry has a really
interesting menu, that
(obviously) put the focus
on U.K. cuisine but there
are American-style sand-
wiches as well. I have a
WASHINGTON CYCLE WORKS

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Town and Country Check us for Suspension Setups
CYCLE CENTER Gift Certificates Available
115 Route 23N • Hamburg NJ
973-875-2111 www.washingtoncycleworks.com
www.townandcountrycyclecenter.com
Serving the motorcycling community for 25 years
WCW
Washington Cycle Works
Junction of Rtes. 57/31 • Washington, NJ 07882
908-835-0043
Closed Sun-Mon • Open: Tues-Thurs 9:30AM-7PM • Fri 9:30AM-6PM • Sat 9AM-3PM
particular jones for the steak and kidney pie, but there are a host of very Anglo-centric
delights like Scotch Eggs, tea sandwiches, Spaghetti on Toast, Baked Beans on toast,
dang, I think they may put anything you want on toast should you desire it. If you are a
person who loves a proper British Tea (and I’m finding I am such a person-having a new
Triumph has nothing to do with it. Much.), they totally have you covered. Real scones,
real cream, real jams; a word of caution: I have overdone tea, and even with all the fine
caffeine I have been badly “sconed” after a visit and have required a brief nap before
jumping on the bike. I know I shouldn’t get so sconed, but. . .
Speaking of the tea, they have a vast menu of teas that is stunning to behold, and so
huge in scope that it’s a tough chore to figure out what is the perfect choice on the day.
I love this place. The tearoom itself is on the smallish side, which is fine as you can dine
al fresco as I always do on their porch. The food is unique as is the place, and the folks
are pretty fantastic. It’s also a great ride to get there, not matter which direction you’re
coming from. And a tour of the place with all the great British products available
(including candy bars that are delicious) is all part of the experience. Carpe Tea-um!
Mrs. Bridges Pantry is located at 292 Route 169, South Woodstock, CT (if using GPS
the address is 292 Somers Turnpike).
Rip & Ride® • MRS. BRIDGES PANTRY

292 ROUTE 169, SOUTH WOODSTOCK, CT• 860-963-7040 • WWW.MRSBRIDGESPANTRY.COM
DOWNLOAD 125 O/W GPS ROUTE HERE: www.sendspace.com/file/5bs72v
START: MARCUS DAIRY CROSS RIVER

5 SUGAR HOLLOW RD, DANBURY CT RIGHT ONTO RTE. 17
NORTH ON SUGAR HOLLOW RD LEFT - STAY ON RTE. 17
RIGHT ONTO PARK AVE RIGHT ONTO HOPEWELL RD
RIGHT ONTO W WOOSTER ST RIGHT ONTO CHESTNUT HILL RD
LEFT - STAY ON W WOOSTER ST STRAIGHT ONTO QUARRY RD
RIGHT ONTO RTE. 53 LEFT ONTO RTE. 83
LEFT ONTO TRIANGLE ST RIGHT ONTO RTE. 6/44 - MIDDLE TPKE E.
BEAR RIGHT ONTO NEWTOWN RD LEFT ONTO CEDAR MILL RD
BEAR RIGHT - NEWTOWN RD/RTE. 6 RIGHT ONTO VALLEY FALLS RD
LEFT-STAY ON RTE. 6/CHURCH HILL RD LEFT-THEN RIGHT ONTO HATCH HILL RD
LEFT ONTO GLEN RD LEFT ONTO CEDAR SWAMP RD
CROSS RIVER-LEFT ONTO RIVER RD STRAIGHT ONTO GEHRING RD
RIGHT ONTO PURCHASE BROOK RD LEFT ONTO GRANT HILL RD
BEAR RIGHT ONTO STILLSON RD RIGHT ONTO METCALF RD
LEFT ONTO RTE. 172 STRAIGHT ONTO ANDERSON RD
CROSS RTE. 67 ONTO TRANSYLVANIA RD STRAIGHT ONTO BAXTER RD
RIGHT ONTO RTE. 317 STRAIGHT ONTO ANTHONY RD
BEAR RIGHT ONTO HOLLOW RD LEFT ONTO S. RIVER RD
GET ON RTE. 6 SOUTH RIGHT ONTO RTE. 74
EXIT ONTO RTE. 64 EAST LEFT ONTO JARED SPARKS RD
LEFT ONTO RTE. 188 LEFT-THEN RIGHT ONTO TINKERVILLE RD
RIGHT ONTO WHITTMORE RD/RTE. 188 LEFT ONTO FERMIER RD
RIGHT ONTO RTE. 63 RIGHT ONTO RTE. 320
LEFT ONTO RTE. 68 - CROSS RIVER STRAIGHT ONTO RTE. 89
LEFT ONTO RTE. 70 RIGHT ONTO EASTFORD RD/TURNS TO WESTFORD RD
LEFT ONTO RTE. 71 STRAIGHT ONTO OLD COLONY RD
RIGHT ONTO GYPSY LANE RIGHT ONTO ROCKY HILL RD
LEFT ONTO RTE. 5 LEFT ONTO RTE. 171
RIGHT ONTO E. MAIN ST RIGHT ONTO RTE. 169 AND MRS. BRIDGES PANTRY
GET ON RTE. 66 NORTH/EAST
Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents

Dr. Seymour O’Life’s M Y S T E R I O U S AMERICA
THE JACKS AND WHITES
New Jersey is full of folklore and legend. From

THE RAMAPOUGH MOUNTAIN INDIANS
the Jersey Devil to the Hookerman; Backroads’ Eventually they made there way
home state has so much to wonder about. past what is now Oakland and into the
For years now I have heard tales of a group of Ramapo Mountains where they found
people - a community in the Ramapo Mountains a region that was free of hostility
that almost live in a world of their own. towards them and it was here they
Pejoratively called the Jackson Whites, they are settled down.
said to live along the border of New Jersey and At this time the British Army com-
New York, near Ringwood and Hillburn. mand at New York contracted with a
Much has been said and written about these Colonial sea captain named Jackson
folk, but I took it upon myself to take a ride up to bring some 3,500 prostitutes
along the border mountains to see just what real- recruited in the cities of England to
ly is up there. New York to serve the garrison.
I had read stories of dark-skinned people rush- The story goes that the original 20
ing the cars of strangers, of violence threatened ships floundered in a storm and many
and occurring. Tales of social oddities and other of the women were lost, but Jackson,
things not deemed the norm in today’s society. being a businessman simply sailed
But, maybe a little history is in order to clear up the remaining ships to the West Indies
fact from fiction. and brought in black women slaves to
The original people in these mountains were fill the missing ranks of prostitutes.
made up of Lenni Lenape and Tuscarora Indians. These women became know as
During the Revolutionary War, as battles raged in Jackson’s Whites and Jackson’s
Manhattan and surrounding areas, Hessian sol- Black - depending on the skin color.
diers and people of Dutch decent with no means They were kept in a pasture in what
of returning home and seeking a safe haven, head- is now Greenwich Village until the
ed across the northern part of New Jersey. British fled New York and the
Deemed British sympathizers they were constant- women, now suddenly free and fear-
ly harassed and took to raiding crops, doing what- ing for their lives, fled the city and
ever was necessary in order to survive. headed north towards the Ramapo
mountains where they heard there
was a haven for Tory refugees.
Here they mixed with and married the Hessian and natives and the result-
ing stew of humanity became known as the Jacks (freed women) and
Whites (Hessians). This eventually became the Jackson Whites.
Back then they were despised by the neighbors in the valleys either for
(Continued on Page 19)
Rip & Ride® • THE JACKS AND WHITES

DOWNLOAD GPS ROUTE HERE: www.sendspace.com/file/sze802
START: BRANCHVILLE, NJ LEFT AT RIDGE RD. STRAIGHT AT RTE. 17A

STOP BY GEORGE’S WINE SHOP FOR CROSS GREENWOOD LAKE
SOME WINE & CHEESE FOR LATER ON
LEFT AT CR 1
RIGHT AT RACKETTS RD. RIGHT AT TEN EYKE AVE.
TAKE CR 519 NORTH
RIGHT AT BERGERONS RD. RIGHT AT STERLING RD.
BEAR RIGHT AT CR 629
LEFT AT RIDGE RD. STRAIGHT ON EAST SHORE RD.
RIGHT AT CR 629
STRAIGHT AT SOUTH PLANK RD. LEFT AT CR 511
LEFT AT HYATT RD.
RIGHT AT CR 93 LEFT AT BEECH RD.
STRAIGHT AT KILMAS RD.
LEFT AT CR 12 BECOMES DIRT
BEAR LEFT AT DENNIS PHILLIPS RD.
RIGHT AT CR 37 (NOW YOU’RE GETTING THE IDEA)
RIGHT AT NEILSON RD.
RIGHT AT CR 42 U-TURN BACK TO 511
BEAR LEFT AT CR 519 NORTH
LEFT AT CR 6 LEFT AT MARGARET KING AVE.
RIGHT AT RTE. 23 SOUTH
RIGHT AT CR 68 LEFT AT MILLIGAN DR.
LEFT AT GORGE RD.
RIGHT AT RTE. 17A RIGHT AT VAN DUNK LN.
LEFT AT CR 651
LEFT AT ACKERMAN RD. HERE BE THE RAMAPOUGH
BEAR LEFT AT CLOVE RD.
LEFT AT CR 13 MOUNTAIN INDIANS
RIGHT AT MOORE RD.
RIGHT AT MT. SALEM RD. RIGHT AT WISNER RD. BEAR RIGHT AT CANNON MINE RD.
LEFT AT GOODRICH RD. BEAR RIGHT AT UPPER WISNER RD. RIGHT AT PETERS MINE RD
RIGHT AT MINISINK TPKE. BEAR LEFT AT PUMPKIN HILL RD. NOW SKEEDADDLE OUT OF THERE
Bergen County Harley-Davidson Presents

W E ’ R E O U T TA H E R E a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads
you’re spending the night there, correct?) the food really sets the pub apart
from others. Whether it’s traditional Bangers and Mash, fantastic beer bat-
Mike Stackhouse
tered Fish and Chips or English pub style Shepard’s Pie, everyone should be
THE JOLLY DRAYMAN PUB AT THE BRIAR LEA
able to find something that fits their tastes. The Wellies (filet mignon
150 MAYVILLE ROAD • BETHEL, ME 04217
wrapped in a mushroom sauce and baked in a crust) are one of our favorites.
877-311-1299 • WWW.JOLLYDRAYMANPUB.COM
Other entrees include curried dishes and pub sandwiches. Like I said, about
ROOMS: $99-$159/NIGHT INCLUDE FULL BREAKFAST
Character, ambiance, whatever you call the “thing” that makes a place anything you could want.
very special, the Briar Lea-Jolly Drayman has it in spades. The summer
found me with a new job and my vacation time down to zip from 7 weeks
off to ride. That meant I spent what riding time I had close to home. This
didn’t give me the opportunity to ride far and wide writing of exotic places
off the beaten path but figured out, as Brian and Shira have done with their
“Big City Getaways”, there are great places to write about in my own back
yard.
As good as all the food and drink are, it’s the comfortable atmosphere that
keeps me going back. At the 1840s inn, you can sit in the pub, the dining
room or on the couches in the sitting room. The couches are a favorite place
to hoist a pint and take in the Swamp Donkeys when they play there.
(Picture modern pop songs done Celtic style) An outside deck is also avail-
able to sit back and enjoy the
evening. Combine all this and a
This brings me back to my favorite haunt and all good time should be had by all.
around great place, The Jolly Drayman pub-Briar Lea So, should you find yourself in
Inn. Located on Route 2-26 in Bethel, Maine, The the Mahoosuc mountain region of
Drayman is run by husband and wife, Richard and Jenn Maine, be sure to drop by the inn
Fredricks. The Fredricks’ know what an English pub is and say hi. They’re motorcycle
all about as England is where Jenn called home and they friendly (haven’t kicked me out yet
ran a pub over there. anyways....) and there are tons of
great rides in the area.
The sign by the road says, “Guinness Is Good”. And it is. However, that’s
not the only thing they have on tap. The Old Speckled Hen, Smithwicks and
various others, including cask-conditioned ale are palette pleasers. While it
would be easy to say, “we’re only here for the beer” (the bike is parked and
(Contnued from Page 16)

having been British sympathizers, for their mixed blood, or for being Black, or Indian, or a combination of it all. From roughly 1800 on, the Jackson Whites
MYSTERIOUS AMERICA
had little to do with the world outside their Ramapo Mountains retreat and the few towns and villages they had managed to build.
Their largely Dutch surnames, de Groot, de Fries, van der Donck, and Mann, in all their variant spellings, are among the oldest in the countryside and pre-
date the Revolutionary War.
Today the state of New Jersey officially recognizes the Ramapough people to be Indians. “Be it resolved by the General Assembly of the State of New Jersey
that the Ramapough Mountain People of the Ramapough Mountains of Bergen and Passaic counties, descendants of the Iroquois and Algonquin nations, are
hereby designated by the State of New Jersey as
the Ramapough Indians.” New York has a bill
pending to recognize the Ramapough people as
Native Americans.
Personally I questioned some of this, so a ride
up to the area was in order.
Along this area, near Ringwood I found a few
roads that turned to dirt and along here a few very
old houses with Dutch names on the mailboxes.
Following a hunch I rode up Stag Hill Road
and Van Dunk Lane, and here I dare say I found
what I was looking for. A small closed off com-
munity, with small groups of people here and
there, mostly very dark and certainly not
Swedish.
I have ridden in a number of towns and com-
munities, but this time I felt all eyes upon me, as
if I was an intruder, which I guess I was. I certainly was not welcome, but other than some glaring
stares I was passed unmolested.
Perhaps years ago this burg was home to Jacks and Whites, but today I like to think of them as
just other Americans and the area is just like any other region in the United States. In a Hispanic sec-
tion you’ll see Hispanics. In an Asian section you’ll meet Asians. Here in the Ramapo Mountains
you just might meet the Ramapough Mountain Indians - it’s all part of Mysterious America.
Our Rip & Ride to this region starts in Branchville, New Jersey - where Backroads calls home and
covers miles of superb roads. Some might be closed due to recent flooding, but we simply rode
around the detours.
Please respect these people and tread lightly through their town.
B I G C I T Y G E TA W AY daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind
ied brands displayed historically therein.

George Barber decided to change that. George first opened his museums
It’s summertime and what’s better than a road trip. Ralph Angelo has a
doors in 1994, and then in 2003 his museum moved to a much larger, state
great destination to get you on the road for a few days to some great histo-
of the art facilities including not only museum space but a racetrack which
ry in motorcycling.
can be seen from the windows of the museum itself.

Ralph Angelo Jr
The entire facility is breathtaking! Motorcycles line racks from floor to

THE BARBER VINTAGE MOTORSPORTS MUSEUM
ceiling of five different floors.
An amazing array of motorcycles encompass every floor, with one floor
6030 BARBER MOTORSPORTS PARKWAY, LEEDS, AL
Have you ever heard the old saying, “I feel like a kid in a candy store?” covering the beginnings of motorcycling including a re-created representa-
205-699-7275 • WWW.BARBERMUSEUM.ORG
Well that couldn’t have applied better to me in any way, shape or form, tion of the shed the first Harley-Davidsons were created in.
especially if my candy of choice is motorcycles. I recently spent a day in the Make no mistake about it though; this is not a Harley only museum. Every
Barber Motorsports Museum, and was amazed at the largest private collec- marquee is represented here. Including Yamaha, BMW, Honda, Triumph,
tion of motorcycles in the United States, and some say the world. Moto-Guzzi, Kawasaki, Suzuki, MV Agusta, Ducati, as well as many, many
George Barber is a motorcycle enthusiast who realized that nowhere in more obscure brands. Some are long gone; some are still in evidence today.
the world did there exist a truly comprehensive and extensive museum that But understand this, no piece in this museum is in anything less then
captured motorcycling history from the past to the present, with all the var- museum quality shape. There are some motorcycles, such as Gary Eagan’s
Ducati that he crossed the country with in thirty-six hours that have been left
MOTORCYCLEMADNESS
8 State Hwy 94 • Lafayette, NJ • 973-579-6088 • 877-252-9828
New Jersey’s Largest Pre-Owned Bike Seller

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WE BEAT ANY INTERNET DEAL
Located 1/4 mile north of 206/94 intersection
and 1 mile north of Newton
Tues/Wed: 9-6 • Thurs: 10-8 • Fri: 10-6 • Sat: 9-4
Closed: Sunday and Monday
www.MadMotorcycle.com
Speaking of racing, one corner of the room has

a display of race bikes all leaned in a curve, start-
ing with older race bikes from days past and con-
tinuing through every decade up to the present,
culminating in modern bikes racing to a finish.
There are so many incredible motorcycles on
display here. A Yamaha R7 race bike, which were
produced in limited quantities for racing only a
decade ago. Not one, but two Honda Runes. A
Victory Vegas in gleaming yellow. A Honda NR
750 V-Four which was FAR ahead of its time.
There was also the famed Alligator, designed by
fellow Long Islander Dan Gurney only a few
short years ago.
One of the most interesting bikes on display
in ‘As is’ condition, but those are presented that way for historical signifi- was a Jawa Ice racer with spikes embedded in the tires as well as a left han-
cance. dlebar raised far up in a vertical position for as much lean as possible. Ice
Such is also the case with Jamie Hacking’s R6 that he rode to an AMA racing! What a concept!
world championship in 2003. What was my favorite motorcy-
One of the most amazing pieces to me was a custom chopper that was cre- cle on display? That’s easy, the MV
ated by a High School class. Usually I’m not a custom chopper kind of Agusta F4. I love that bike!
motorcycle enthusiast, but the attention to detail and sheer quality of this The museum does not only have
motorcycle overwhelmed me. It was truly beautiful, and for high schoolers motorcycles on display, but large
to have created it really says something about their eye for detail and com- displays of Lotus Formula-1 cars
mitment to this project. are impressively displayed as well.
There were motorcycles of every vintage including a brand new Triumph The Barber Motorsports museum
Bonneville in limited edition colors commemorating the fiftieth anniversary is one destination that should be on
of the Bonneville. every motorcyclist’s short list of
One of the most intriguing displays at the museum were huge metallic places moto-related to visit. It’s
trees made up of motorcycles stacked up to the ceiling in circular patterns. incredibly impressive and created with an enthusiast’s love of the sport. It
These appeared in several places in the museum, with many models of vin- has to be experienced to be believed.
tage motorcycles facing in all directions.
The military exhibit was awe inspiring, featuring motorcycles from the
Hours: Mon-Sat: 10am to 6pm • Sun: Noon to 6pm
thirties throughout the last century up until today.

There was also a wall display depicting the early days of the dangerous
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THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD Adrian Blake
COMPASS EXPEDITIONS TO USHUAIA
If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to ride

through Patagonia, the experience can best be
described as an adventure of a lifetime.
Patagonia is one of the world’s must-see destina-
tions, known for its breathtaking scenery and
unique ecosystem. And the best way to see it is
from the saddle of a motorbike.
Always ready for an adventure, I joined the
knowledgeable and friendly team who run Compass
Expeditions for a 17-day ride through Chile and
Argentina.
They call it the Patagonian Explorer tour for good
reason. Much of the countryside we rode through is
untamed. It makes you really feel like you’re blazing uncharted territory
aboard your BMW F650 GS supplied by Compass.
Our group gathered in Santiago, Chile to get acquainted. The ride started
in Pucón, about 450 miles south of the capital city. It ended 2,100 miles later
in legendary Ushuaia, recognized as the southernmost city in the world.
Patagonia is a region that covers roughly 260,000 square miles. It extends
from the southern part of Buenos Aires Province to the tip of Tierra del
Fuego.
As we discovered, it’s a land of desolate beauty and very sparse popula-
tion. To the west are the Cordillera de los Andes and vast expanse of the
Cuernos and the emerald lake beneath them.

For me, riding through the wildness of Patagonia was mesmerizing. I left
knowing that I’d go back in an instant.
For more information visit www.compassexpeditions.com
Southern Patagonian Ice Field. East of the cordillera is semi-arid plateau

that’s dominated by a low scrub called jarilla.
Patagonia’s climate is very changeable. But fortune smiled on us, as we
experienced near-perfect spring weather throughout our travels (the South
American spring is September to November). On average, temperatures
ranged from mid-70s F in the north to low 50s in the
south (although it did get cooler, at times dipping down
to 40 degrees.)
Wind is also a fact of life in Patagonia. It was an
almost constant companion as we rode across the
steppe. We saw many signs along the road showing a
tree bending in a strong breeze.
A large part of our ride was along Argentina’s famous
Ruta Nacional 40. This is the route that Che Guevara
took in 1952 on his Norton 500. He documented the trip
in his book, The Motorcycle Diaries.
Ruta 40 runs more than 3,000 miles, roughly paral-
leling the eastern spine of the Andes. A good portion of
the road surface is gravel, ideal for dirt biking. Long
straight stretches carve through sweeping vistas of stark
post-glacial landscape.
Once we crossed the Strait of Megellan from Chile
into Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, we followed Ruta
Nacional 3. Part of the Pan-American Highway, the
well-paved road cuts through mountain passes and
spectacular scenery for the last 60 miles into Ushuaia.
Along the route we were treated to a variety of spe-
cially hand-picked accommodations that added to the
enjoyment of the whole experience. We bedded down
in boutique hotels and unique hostels and spent a cou-
ple of nights in a classic estancia (ranch).
Of course, we all consumed a hearty share of South
American food and drink. Asado or traditional BBQ is
common fare and South American wines, especially,
are among the best in the world.
Highlights are too many to mention, but two in par-
ticular stand out. Parque Nacional los Glacieras is
located in Argentina’s Santa Cruz Province and Perito
Moreno Glacier is one of its star attractions.
That’s no mean feat since there are 47 glaciers in the
park. I wasn’t quite prepared for the blueness of
Moreno’s ice or its sheer size (3 miles wide and 20
miles long).
For a change of pace, we camped in geodesic dome
tents at Torres del Paine National Park. UNESCO
declared it a World Biosphere Reserve in 1978.
Arriving at the park, we were greeted by throngs of
grazing guanacos. These relatives of the camel are on
the protected species list and roam freely.
Only two of us embarked on an 8-hour roundtrip
climb to see the Paine massif up close. The long trek
was well worth the impressive view of the famed Los
(Continued from Page 13) What a great place to visit. The route sure lived up to your name as it took
us on some very backroads including some gravel roads. We did opt out on
30 miles ) and check things out. Big mistake on my part cause we both were
BACKLASH
riding the road with a sign stating it was a level 4 road and warned driving
smitten. What a great Moto-Inn destination. Been to the Depot Lodge three
at own risk.
times now and each time are treated like family by Ms. Mikell Ellison, gen-
Thanks again for all that you do for those of us that really enjoy riding.
eral manager. Your Moto-Inn logos are proudly displayed at both The Depot
Keep up the good work.
Lodge and across the road at the general store and Swinging Bridge
Thank You,
Restaurant. Our last stay was on a Thursday, which is blue grass night at the
David Donnamaria
restaurant. Good food and good times.
Problem is, now when I ask the Mrs. where she wants to go for a couple
days ride its always the same answer, “ Paint Bank, Va.” Since the impetus
Happy Anniversary to Us
came from your great publication, I figure you owe me a little help with the Hi Shira and Brian,
expenses. I’ll be watching my mailbox for your check. I just finished reading the 15th anniversary edition of Backroads. Wow!
Philip Eramo You really have come a long way, and your publication just keeps getting
Columbus, Ohio better. And thank you for the awesome Ride for Kids® PSA listing so many
events.
Dear Backroads, Thanks for everything,
I just returned from Americade and I had to drop a quick Thank You for Mary O. Ratcliffe, ABC
the great ride to the Bryant House & Vermont Country store that was in your Communications Director PBTF
June edition.
I am new at downloading the route to my GPS so I decided to try it out Brian/Shira,
on Friday which was looking like the best weather day. Congratulations on your first 15 years. I remember picking up that 1st.
The route was filled with beautiful scenery and great roads. We didn’t issue at the Ramapo in 1995 and thinking how great it was to have a local
have lunch at the Bryant House but we did spend time walking around the motorcycle magazine. Here we are 15 years later and it keeps getting better.
Vermont Country Store. Looking forward the next 15 and many more....
Mike Mosca (oh yea) Pam too...
Congratulations on 15 years at Backroads. Great

cover and great articles by you and Shira. We wish
ALL ROADS LEAD
you another glorious 15 years of writing, riding and
traveling. Happy trails. Best of luck.
TO RENEGADE
nw & mw
LARGEST SELECTION OF
RIDING GEAR IN ORANGE COUNTY
(Continued from Page 4)
It is almost impossible.
MOTORCYCLE CLOTHING FOR THE SUMMER ROAD TRIP FREE WHEELIN’
Still next year Americade will again be at Lake

BIKER COMMUNITY HEADQUARTERS
George, but after that - well that is in the hands of the
bureaucrats in Albany.
Are You Ready to Hit the Road?
If you are like us, you look forward to Americade
each spring and we know that we spend a great deal of
Saddle bags • Windshield bags • Tool bags
Tank bags • Sissybar bags • Gel seat pads
money in and around Lake George at each event.

Riding glasses • Goggles • Rain gear • Gloves
We’re sure you do too.

JJ Cycle Pass • Bike cleaner • Over pants • Boots
For Americade to leave the Adirondacks would be a

Kruzer Kaddy • Chaps • Vests • Mesh Jackets
huge shame and shows an enormous lack of foresight

RENEGADECLASSICSMIDDLETOWN.COM
by the “powers that be” in Albany. These same “lead-
ers” offer millions of dollars to try to woo businesses
22 COUNTY ROUTE 78 MIDDLETOWN, NY 10940
to NYS but are killing a golden goose they already

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states offer $ incentives to move lucrative conventions
MAJOR CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED • GIFT CERTIFICATES AVAILABLE
like Americade.
CHECK WEBSITE FOR STORE HOURS
It seems that they want to sink the rally like the

YORK 23 TRAILERS Land Tortoise, the oldest Naval wreck in North
America that sits at the lake’s bottom.
Remember that some of these folks are appointed,
TRUCK ACCESSORIES & CAPS but others are elected and New York State riders/voters
can make a difference, especially with elections com-
SALES • SERVICE ing up this Fall.
Theirs are the voices that really need to be heard,
3-Rail Bike Trailers
but every letter written, e-mail sent and phone call
STRAPS • D RING
made by Americaders will force New York to open its
Toy Hauler Trailers TIE DOWNS
with or without eyes to what they could lose if Americade is forced to
another location or state.
We are now a TRUCK CAPS
Letters can be sent to:
Living Quarters
ACCESSORIES
SOFT TOUCH Lawrence S. Schwartz
Full Service and Parts Facility Cap Dealer Secretary to the Governor
WHEEL CHOCKS Executive Chamber State Capitol
Large Selection of Open and Enclosed Trailers TRAILER HITCHES Albany, NY12224
Pete Grannis Commissioner
973-492-0110
1212 Route 23 North • Butler, NJ 07405 NY State Dept of Environmental Conservation
625 Broadway, Albany, New York 12233-0001
WWW.YORKTRAILER.COM www.dec.ny.gov • 518-402-8013
Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully

A column dedicated to your riding survival
The Bunching Factor

Recently I got into a discussion with a friend of mine who has more
miles and experience with riding motorcycles than few I know.
He stated that, ‘The Argument for Space,’ caught his attention, and at
least, in his opinion, it was right on the mark. But he made an additional
point that motorcyclists of all stripes, riding in groups, need to remain
aware of the traffic bunching up behind them. Most groups he has seen,
whether on a freeway or backroads, don’t leave enough space between
them to allow passing, or conveniently enabling a car to slide into the
parade to make an exit.
He went on to say that a few years back, while he was riding with a friend Needless to say I could see that they were impressed with our riding skills
along a two-laner with no passing zones, a club was “cruising” at about 35 as many of them were holding one finger up, showing us they knew we were
mph, in a 50 mph zone. Not one would move over to allow them to pass #1.
without crossing the double yellow...why? How hard is it to move over a There was no need for any of this except for the fact that this particular
few feet to let a fellow motorcyclist pass? Well, they eventually got by, but group felt so important that they deserved the road, the entire road, to them-
if they had been in a car, they would have had to go at their pace for 10 miles selves.
or so... this is not exactly the best way of building good will among car driv- This sort of attitude only hurts us all in the long run.
ers. The “Bunching Factor” directly relates to what I was getting into with my
‘Argument for Space’ a few months back. When groups ride so closely
together, especially larger groups at slower than normal speed, they can ruin
everybody’s day on the road.
Big rallies such as Americade and Laconia have this problem on a con-
stant basis. Riders want to stay with their friends, and then sometimes end
up taking up a 1/4 mile of roadway in a solid bunch like a flock of tiny
Starlings moving as one entity.
If your group is guilty of this, might you consider this suggestion? Spread
it out. With proper spacing between your riders you will reap a number of
benefits, not to mention you will enjoy the ride much more than if you are
I totally agreed with him and told him of a similar situation at Americade right on the rear wheel of the rider ahead of you.
a few years back. Shira and I were riding up along Route 8, a very twistal- A group of riders spread out over a mile or so is far more manageable and
icious Adirondack road. We came around a series of S-turns and right into will also allow for others, who might be riding at a faster pace, to easily and
the back of a cruiser group doing 30 in a 50. safely pass through your group without any drama. You will be able to ride
We rode with them for at least 5 miles before the road opened up into one your own ride and at your own pace. If something happens you will have
of the few short straights with passing zones that you will find up there. room to move and, just as importantly, you will not have a large group of
Shira and I immediately went into pass em’ mode - and a legal one at that - irate riders and drivers behind you, some of whom are just about to try some
but then these guys and gals remembered the throttle as well and, even stupid.
though they saw us making the pass, they accelerated to keep us from com- Here’s a hint, if you or your group has three or more vehicles behind you,
pleting it. all bunched up, it is okay to, when safe, pull to the right and let them pass
As we were quickly approaching a blind left-hand sweeper we were and then you can continue on your own ride and at your own pace - and so
forced to do the “bone head” and sometimes just plain stupid Double Split can everybody else.
Pass; Shira on the left and I on the right around the last four bikes at a rapid The road is a marvelous place and with a courtesy it can be a better ride
pace. for us all.
So, how’s your summer going so far? Have you been getting your RDA of riding and ice cream? I cer-
OWOWCOW CREAMERY • 4105 DURHAM RD, OTTSVILLE, PA • 610-847-7070
tainly hope so, as I’ve given you plenty of opportunity. With that in mind, here’s this month’s addition
to the tasty list; OwowCow Creamery in Ottsville, PA.
This little gem was found by accident. We had planned on doing our annual Dog Days of Summer
Hot Dog Ride and I had plotted three tasty tuber stops and a full day’s ride. Somewhere along the way,
the route went terribly awry and put us on I-78. I was quite upset with myself and carried that with me
for the rest of the way. Upon arrival at Philly’s Hot Dog Café in Limerick, PA, we were confronted with
a ‘Sorry, Closed’ sign. Asking the neighboring stores, we were told that they just up and left about three
weeks earlier. My upset was transformed into anger, and Brian reminded me that it’s really not a healthy
thing to ride a powerful motorcycle while angry. I tried to shake it off and continued the ride. The return
trip was quite pleasant and, at one particular turn, the savior for the day was found.
OwowCow Creamery, as taken from their Facebook page, ‘produces premium ice cream using local-
Shira’s ly sourced, organic ingredients in small batches. They support local farms in Bucks County and deliver a
product that is wholesome and authentic.’ May I interject here - HOLY COW, THAT WAS THE BEST ICE
CREAM I’VE EVERY EATEN.
Summertime OwowCow opened about a year ago,
and I’m sure has developed a healthy
following from day one. They offer
Ice Cream almost 100 flavors (no, not all at once)
and are quite creative in their concoc-
tions. How’s this for a sampling: Sweet
Ride Honey Cream with Rum Walnuts, Banana
Brownie Madness, Nutella Hazelnut,
Organic Green Tea, Rose Water Cardamom,
Blood Orange Cranberry, and Meyer
Lemon. They always have three flavors
of vanilla - Tahitian, Indonesian and
Madagascar (you’ve got to eat it, eat
it...). Their seasonal flavors include
Just Peachy in the summer, Organic
Sweet Potato Wasabi in the fall and Candy
Cane Chip for your winter cravings. In addition, they will help to cleanse your palette
with their sorbet flavors such as Pear Ginger and Orange Mango.
Pulling into their lot, we saw a spattering of picnic tables with umbrellas and folks
Ride More, Stress Less
Bergen
Sport
Cycles
30 US Hwy 46 East • Lodi, NJ • 973-478-7711

www.bergensportcycle.com
enjoying their summertime treats. The young ladies serving up There are two routes for this ride. One
scoops inside are very helpful and will offer tastings of any fla- starts at the Chatterbox Drive-in in
vor before purchase (or after, for that matter, so don’t take Augusta, NJ (90 miles O/W) and the
advantage). With the abundance of flavors from which to other can be considered an Ice Cream to
choose, I was certainly hard pressed but opted for a double scoop Ice Cream ride with it starting at the
of Coconut and Garden Berries (which includes strawberries, Applegate Farms in Upper Montclair,
blueberries, bilberries and raspberries). They told me this was NJ (85 miles O/W). Here’s the rub,
their best seller and I certainly understood why. The berries were you’re just getting the printed R&R for
as fresh as could be with just the right amount of sweetness. The the one starting in Augusta. The other is
combination of berries and coconut was extremely refreshing only available in GPS format.
and was the saving grace of an otherwise disappointing day. Route found on page 44.
You’ll find OwowCow Creamery at the intersection of Rtes.
563 and 412 in Ottsville, PA, with the exact address being 4105
Durham Road. They are open Monday-Saturday from noon to
10pm and Sundays from noon to 9pm. If you need to call them
you can reach them at 610-847-7070. Of course we’ll give you
a sweet ride to get you there. Enjoy and have a scoop for me.
LEFT: THE GIRLS OF

OWOWCOW SCOOP
TO PLEASE
TOP: TAKE A SEAT AND

ENJOY YOUR TREAT
RIGHT: A SIGHT FOR SORE

EYES- ICE CREAM HEAVEN
OPPOSITE: IT’S A QUANDRY
WRAPPED IN AN ENIGMA
TRYING TO DECIDE
O’ Toole’ s-A-Palooza
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AMERICADE 2010
Return to the Lake Return toReturn
Return the
to the Lake
Lake
to the Lake
20 years ago Shira and I got hitched.

Back then we had less than the proverbial pot to whiz
in and with a new bride’s dreams of Hawaii or the Caribbean
quickly evaporating I felt the need to come up with something cool and inter-
esting to fill in the need to disappear for awhile.
Those days we were two up on a small Kawasaki 600 Ninja and for years we had
heard of this rally in upstate New York called Americade.
We grabbed some of the wedding loot and booked a B & B outside Lake George
and with soft luggage packed up we scooted north and to the Adirondacks.
What we found was two-wheeled nirvana. Thousands of
bikes; it was motorcycle heaven. We had found a
home - for at least one week a year.
We have not missed one since. Heck, we even
flew home a day early from South Africa a
dozen years back to get in one day of
Americade.
Canada Street was fairly crowded, but nothing compared to the throngs
that would be here in another day of so.
We easily found a spot and some flat bread pizza at one of the tiny bistros
that line the street. We sat down to take in the early Americade crowds.
Each year at Americade famed journalist and motorcycle tour operator
Fred Rau has his 7 am coffee klatch meeting up at Roaring Brook. For an
hour each day Fred and others field questions and generally discuss what is
happening in the motorcycle world.
Normally we’d do a pre-Americade ride on our way to Lake George but

this year we were shackled home as we made sure the July issue was safe-
ly to the printer and we didn’t get going until early Tuesday.
We met our friends Mike and Nuri, from Rising Wolf Garage, at one of
the rest stops on the Thruway and west of Albany we cut into the
Adirondacks along some tiny backroads we had plotted.
Sacandaga Lake is always a joy to ride and after a quick lunch in
Edinburgh we scooted past Roaring Brook and to the Holiday Inn where
we picked up our wristbands and then on to the Sun Castle, which has been
Backroads Central North for the last few years.
Go See
the Pros
that Know
How to
Ride!
www.HanoverPowersports.com
WE’RE MOVING TO 70 Route 10
The day that had been cool and cloudy morphed into a perfect afternoon
A NEW LOCATION
and we rode over to the Vendor Expo at Million Dollar Beach and did a bit
Whippany, NJ
of window shopping and spent some time with vendors and friends we
One Mile East of Old Location
973-428-1735
have from the industry.
Check our Website for Updates
As you probably know Americade has plenty to offer and the talks and
seminars are well worth attending. That Tuesday evening Mark Tuttle,
from Rider magazine, was giving a talk on 25 Years Behind Bars.
Mark has been a good friend for years so that evening we rode over to
Roaring Brook and took in his excellent state of the art PowerPoint show.
It is always a great way to start the day and something that I look forward beque at a wonderful 100 year old log cabin, just feet from the shore at
to each year. Beside, Fred is always kind enough to let me plug Backroads. Diamond Point.
In fact back in November of 1995 Fred’s MCN was the first of the big mag- Yes, there was a guitar and some very talented players. On the mantle of
azines to acknowledge us and for that we are forever grateful. the fireplace sat a small
Up and out that early gives you the jump on the breakfast crowd replica of a wooden
and that works for us. We had some things taken care of at the expo Hacker craft, the old-style
and then had a lakeside lunch with friends. boats that still ply these
clear waters. Mr. Happy
found it was just the right
size and ensconced him-
self there for the night.
With radar and satellite
showing that this could all
be a fading history come
mid-day on Thursday we
hung up wet riding gear
for the slow drip dry and
hoped the ever pessimistic
Weather Channel was
wrong; as they are apt to be so
many times.
For some reason I tend to rise
with the sun up here in the
Adirondacks and it was so this
week as dawn and I greeted each
The morning sun other every day on the porch
gave way to clouds and just as we hit the indoor expo overlooking the Queen of
at The Forum the skies opened up and Lake George America’s Lakes.
got a light soaking. With the skies tending towards
Still a little rain has never stopped Americade, nor clearing I hoped the demo rides
put a damper on it. were going to be in full swing.
The rest of the day some scattered moisture pelting Not that I needed to ride anything
the region, but Fred Rau’s seminar was packed, as specifically, but so many come to
usual and a number of our tribe went to see Fred Americade to ride new bikes and
while Shira and I joined some other folks for a grand bar- many a manufacturer has sold hun-
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dreds of machines after this rally each year. Glens Falls. It was here that
Still, that didn’t stop two of the major manufacturers to, once again, the famed writer James
ignore this rally. With the risk of insulting BMW and Honda I have to ask - Fennimore Cooper got the
What are you thinking? inspiration to write his great
While the other novel ‘The Last of the
manufacturers are Mohicans.’ The caves are still
showing up with a there but so is an incredible
truck and bikes to amount of industry. A power
ride your two spots plant and factories line the
have been empty Hudson along Glens Falls and
for two years. the bridge over the river here
Triumph and is the sixth one built since
Suzuki should pay Henry sailed up the Hudson.
attention too. We did our best to get lost
Americade is a but kept running into roads
superb chance to we knew and how we got
get hundreds of back to Roaring Brook in half
riders in and the time it took us to ride down the Northway earlier that day is beyond us.
around and on We rode around every little road we could find and only got turned around
your machines. just once or twice. Eventually we found ourselves in Stony Creek and
The money you spend on catering your race stopped at the Inn for a late lunch.
team for the weekend would pay for Americade. Okay maybe a couple of On cue the dark clouds rolled in and boomers drenched the town. We
weekends, but you should be getting my point. found out later these off and on heavy showers drowned a lot of riders
In the meanwhile Kawasaki, Yamaha, Star, Harley-Davidson, Victory, throughout the Adirondacks this day.
Spyder, Royal Enfield and others were packed all
week long. After all the years Americade has provided

a great platform for so many OEMs to highlight their
newest rides the folks so obviously absent should be
ashamed. Are riders in the northeast just not worth the
trouble?
C’mon Royal Enfield shows and Honda and BMW
do not. It’s embarrassing!
At the same time I had to wonder who would seri-

ously consider the $85,000 Bourget Chopper down in
The Forum. But, at least they made the effort; as did
Indian whose new “old” bikes really looked fantastic.
The rains drizzled on and off through the night and
my early morning run around the area was a bit on the
clammy side.
On a tip from O’Life, Shira and I went in search of
Cooper’s Cave, where the Hudson River tumbles down
Just as we finished our well received and it is obvious that our association has made an about face
meal, the sun returned and we and is heading in the right direction. The attendance was lighter than I had
spent the rest of the day hitting hoped and if you are an AMA member or thinking about joining please
more tiny roads that ran come and hear Rob speak if he returns next year.
through forest and farmland. Friday was a brilliant day and we made the best of it with a dozen or so
As we dropped back south of us heading north up Route 9N and
towards Lake George one then following a very
more band of showers floated circuitous route through
by but, according to the the Adirondack back-
Zumo’s radar, this looked to roads. This nearly 150-
be the last for the day. mile ride took most of
Just a few minutes after the day, and we cer-
returning to the hotel the skies tainly found some new
cleared and the sun warmed and exciting bits of
the region. This would not last Adirondack pavement
long this wet night. to entertain us that
Last year we had given our day. At ride’s end we
annual ‘Lifetime Achievement did manage to sneak
in Motorcycling Excellence’, into Warrensburg and
also called that LAME Award,
to the Pediatric Brain Tumor
Foundation’s Mike Traynor. the famed Oscars Smoke-
house to pick up some
meaty goodies for our annu-
al barbeque by the lake. In
truth I had heard much of
Oscars, but this was the first
time I had stopped in. It
once was a small and rustic
place; but small and rustic
places tend to burn and that
is what happened just a
short time ago, much to the
horror of many. But
Oscar’s is back and is
very impressive!
This year we wanted to give the LAME Award to the very person who had Warrensburg is not.
created Americade all those years ago and by doing so brought so many All these vendors that
smiles and good times to countless thousands of riders. are here have nothing to
Bill Dutcher. do with Americade and
Bill is everywhere during Americade, and tracking him down can be a are basically Klingons
Herculean task by itself. But, with AMA President Rob Dingman giving a selling biker crap.
speech at Roaring Brook Ranch on Thursday evening, we were pretty sure They will not get a
we could find Mr. Dutcher and pass along the Excellence Award. penny from us.
President Dingman was gracious enough to give up some of his time so This evening we
we could hand Bill the award and we just want to thank Bill once again for had friends and indus-
all he has done and for bringing us Americade every year. try homeys coming
Rob Dingman’s talk about the American Motorcyclist Association was
AIRPORT PUB & PACKAGE

Sussex NJ County Rd 639 • Next to the Airport
Open 7 Days • 973-702-1215
We have New Jersey Lottery & Scratch Offs
We accept cash, credit cards & ATM on premise
WE’RE LOCATED IN SCENIC SUSSEX COUNTY
A POPULAR NEIGHBORHOOD PUB
FRIENDLY SERVICE • ICE COLD BEER
AND ALWAYS SOMETHING TO DO…
ENJOY THE RIDE

TWO POOL TABLES • JUKE BOX • DARTS
OUTDOOR SEATING FACING THE AIRPORT
“WATCH THE SKY DIVERS”
Stop by and We’re Sure to Become One of Your Favorite Stops
PLUS … WE SERVE A SIMPLE PUB MENU
FREE BBQ on Sundays SUPPORT OUR TROOPS
weather
‘ You Cook ‘Em…’ The Summer’s Here!
It’s Always Bike Night at
permitting
Stop by for some great

tire-kickin’ and hangin’
AIRPORT PUB!
by. The folks from Nolan brought in barbeque for Corinth. Olympia brought
We didn’t. In fact they had closed it all down earlier that afternoon. Damn,
a huge salmon and all night people dropped by to enjoy the food and fun. and I had a feeling this would be my year.
In the mean time Americade carried on without us with the closing cere- The rain didn’t stop folks from filling Canada Street that night and as the
monies complete with a starry night sky painted with brilliant colors from the evening slipped by so did Americade 2010.
huge fireworks show. As always we had a great time up in Lake George. So did about 40,000
Nothing is worse than a rainy Saturday at Americade. Fortunately it doesn’t other riders. And, unlike last year where disaster and bad luck seemed to be
happen often, but did this week. riding pillion with us; this year was just dandy.
Exploratory rides into the mountains were scrapped and the Tour Expos at Things are brewing up in Bill Dutcher’s offices in Lake George and the
both Million Dollar Beach and The Forum were packed with folks looking for future of Americade hangs in the balance. We hope to continue going to
those last minute deals. Americade - in Lake George - for a long time to come. But, only time will
Begrudgingly we donned riding suits and did a final few laps of the vendors; tell. (see page 4)
more looking for anything we missed than to buy anything. With that said - we hope to see you at Americade next year for their 30th
The rain hit on and off all day and if there was ever the perfect lazy day then Anniversary.
this was it.
I took a spin around Americade and up to Roaring Brook just to see if we
won any door prizes. Each year I do this and each year I win bupkis.
138 Orange Ave (Rt. 202), Suffern, NY 10901

845.357.1190
Home of Triumph of Rockland
www.locomotionpowersports.com
re
Each year we like to celebrate the old fashioned Frankfurter, more commonly called
a
the Hot Dog. This annual sausage soirée began a few years back after watching a
elaw
cable show on the history of the delicious dogs and their place in Americana.
D
Our first year we organized a little day ride for a number of readers and followed
he
Shira from the Hudson to Delaware hitting a number of great New Jersey Hot Dog
nt
joints along the way. Last year we did a storm-soaked ride that brought us to some
s o
even odder dogs. The bar had been lifted. Over time we have learned that some of the
Do g
better Frankfurterers can and will be found in some odd places.
It is rare that you find a Great All American Diner Run-esque establishment. Not
every Hot Doggery has the feel of Hot Dog Johnny’s out on the foresty banks of the
Pequest River; nope many will be found in semi-urban areas and, heaven forbid, tiny
shopping malls.
The secret here is to overlook this and follow the local crowds. Where they flock
you will find Dogelicious excellence.
Keeping our love of the open-road minds
open, we went in search of this year’s Hot Dog
Run - which we’ll call Dogs on the Delaware.
Our first stop was easy, and close for us.
You’ll find PJ’s Dog House at 8 White Deer
Plaza in Sparta, New Jersey. Part deli as well -
delectable Doggies are not only what they serve
up here; in fact they will most likely be on Man
vs Food soon as they have a killer pancake that I
know I could finish - in a week!
Here’s the deal gobble down a 12 inch
Pancake, 8 Scrambled Eggs, 8 Pieces of Bacon,
Ground Sausage, Home Fries, smothered in
Cheddar Cheese! Eat it in half an hour and it’s on
PJ’s. You’ll get a PJ’s T-Shirt and your face on
the Wall of Fame!
We’ll pass, as it was for the Dogs we had
come. The Dogs here are deep fried,
ripped and split and there are nine styles
from which to choose. Here are just a few:
‘The Barney Dog’- Bacon & Cheese, ‘The
Discovery isn’t a channel.

It’s a way of life.
MONTGOMERYVILLE CYCLE CENTER

2901 Bethlehem Pike, Hatfield, PA
215.712.7433 • www.montgomeryvillecc.com
Say Cheese Dog’- self explanatory and, what River Hot Dog Man has expanded to much more than hot dogs! They have
I sat down for, ‘The Soprano Dog’, Two something for everyone, including delicious chicken sandwiches, kosher hot
Dogs, Peppers, Onion & Potatoes! Yikes and dogs, nachos and cheese, and veggie burgers.
this was just the first Frank of the day. But... you knew that eventually there would be a but - you’re going to
have to get wet to partake in this culinary endeavor with the River Hot
Dog Man. Enter the people at Delaware River Tubing
(www.delawarerivertubing.com).
Here you can safely park your motorcycles, get into your swim trunks
and float around the cooling river on a smokin’ hot day.
Stay on the Jersey-side and follow the signs to the “man” himself (or
herself depending on who’s
cooking). Now this is
something you won’t find
in the glossy nationals!
After our little river voy-
age it is time to move on
and this time cross the river
right at Frenchtown and
head north on scenic Route
32.
We like alot about PJ’s, All too soon you’ll ride
but like it even more that into Easton - here the semi-
it’s so relatively close to urban part of the Hot Dog
Backroads Central. Lipitor, anyone? Run comes into play.
As per her way Shira had put together a scrumptious
route for her Dog Run and, following along we even-
tually came out on Route 46, just east of a place we
had stopped by on our first Hot Dog Run a few years
back - the famous Hot Dog Johnny’s.
Not wanting to miss out on the Jersey Classic we
pulled in and chowed down on their classic dog. I had
a diet soda (I know, I know!) - no Buttermilk for me,
thank you.
1 Year Open House Celebration • Saturday July 31st

Special Events and Activities 11am to 4pm • Check web for details
Earlier I said that many great Hot Doggeries can be
Chicken BBQ • Special savings storewide and demo rides
found in small shopping malls. Well, not this one. Let
us introduce you to the Delaware River legend - The
RIDE THE GOLD STANDARD
River Hot Dog Man, just outside Frenchtown, New
Honda Gold Wing Customer Loyalty program. Get an additional $500
Jersey. Are you ready to ride? With Honda’s 0.99% fixed APR financing offer, there’s
bonus when you trade in any year/model Gold Wing on your purchase.
Yes, we know this sounds like something Seymour never been a better time to buy a new Honda Gold Wing. And the rate is FIXED
O’Life or the guys from Weird NJ would cover, but I for the life of the load. Mavrix Motorsports has a great selection and right now
am here to tell you he’s real. you can take a test ride on America’s Gold Standard of touring machines.
Just outside of Frenchtown, on the Delaware River -
floating around the river itself - you will spot the River
Hot Dog Man on a small floating Hot Dog restaurant
- NJ Boat registration #NJ2938GS. Hey - GS - I like
that.
For almost 25 years the Hot Dog Man has been
floating around feeding hungry canoers and tubers
and, although hot dogs are his specialty, the Famous
0.99% Fixed APR financing available for customers who qualify for super preferred credit tier for up to 36 months through Honda Financial Services. Payment example: 36 monthly payments of $28.20 for each $1000 financed. Offer good on all model year new and unreg-
istered Gold Wing models. Not all buyers may qualify. Higher rates apply for buyers with lower credit ratings. Check with participating Honda Dealers for complete details. Offer ends 9/30/2010. $500 Loyalty Bonus. Customer must purchase a new and unregistered qualify-
ing model during the program period and apply the certificate to accessories, riding gear or other purchase at a participating dealer on the same day the vehicle is purchased. Customer is responsible for all related sales tax. Certificate is not transferable and has no cash
value. Redemption value not to exceed the amounts indicated on the certificate. Limit of one (1) certificate per unit purchase. American Honda reserves the right to amend, cancel or revoke this program at any time without prior notice. In all matters pertaining to the inter-
pretation and application of any phase of the program, the decision of American Honda shall be final. Restrictions apply. Offer applies only to U.S. models sold in the United States. See dealer for details. Offer ends 7/31/2010.
Follow the route to the 25th Street Mall and search

out Jimmy’s Hot Dogs. It’s easy to find; as there might
be a line out the door. But, no worries the line moves
as fast as a Hyabusa.
We sat down and had four dogs with everything,

which means mustard, fresh onion and a sliced dill
pickle spear along with two sodas for under $6.
Their Hot Dogs, which are wonderful, cost you just
$.95 cents each. Talk about value! Yes, you have to
stand around and eat them in a mall parking lot - but
what do you want for less than a buck?
High Alpine Tour with

Backroads and Edelweiss
From Easton we kept on heading north along the
river. Past the Water Gap and along its banks to the
July 17-24, 2011 • If Not Now - WHEN?
tiny burg of Matamoras, Pennsylvania.
Staying on US 6 and Route 209, in the direction of
Head off with Backroads’ publishers
Port Jervis you will find our final stop for the 2010 Hot
Brian & Shira for a tour of a lifetime as
Dog Run - Cats!

we join up with Edelweiss for their High
Alpine Tour.
Cats? Don’t you mean Dogs?

Ride the roads you have dreamed of in
Nope we’re talking one of the most serious Hot Dog

the past - Paso Del Stelvio, the
places we have ever found - Cat’s Incredible Dogs!

Grossglockner, the famed Dolomites.
We’ll even have a day’s ride to Venice.
Take note that Cat’s is closed on Sundays and

When: July 17 -24, 2011
Mondays - for all you “On Any Sunday” riders. But
Tuesday through Saturday they are open for lunch
Yes, 2011 – that gives you two years to
get ready to come on Backroads most
(11:30am to 4pm) with a staggering 35 different styles

exciting event ever!
of Dogs! Here are just a few: the Texas Dog, the Philly
There’s only room for so many, so make
Fido, the Paisano Dog, the Loch Ness Monster, the

your plans now! Prices start at just
$3360/rider and $2920/passenger.
Spud Missile, the Mount Fuji and new to the menu the
For more information email Doris:
Hellish Relish (why go there?) and the Big Cat.

doris.waldegger@edelweissbike.com
You get the idea.

or call us at 973-948-4176.
Ride the Alps, if not now, when?
Now, if you have followed this ride all day long this is your last stop. Your last chance to follow in our foot steps, or tire tracks. Go for it... pick just one of
the 35. Oh, you can’t? No, problem just spin the wheel.
Yes, Cat’s Incredible Dogs has an arcade-style spinning wheel to make the choice for you. This way when
Doc Gonzo, the heart surgeon, asks you why you’re in to see him you have, what we in the letter agencies call,
“Plausible Deniability.”
We hope you enjoyed the 2010 Hot Dog Run. We know it covers a lot of ground, but we think it’s worth it.
You might consider breaking it up over a few days and really enjoying what the terrain and Dogs have to offer.
Woof! ( Route on page 45)
PJ’s Dog House The River Hot Dog Man

8 White Deer Plaza, Sparta, NJ Delaware Tubing
973-729-6900 2998 Daniel Bray Highway (Route 29)
Frenchtown, NJ
Hot Dog Johnny’s 908-996-5386
Rte. 46, Buttzville, NJ www.riverhotdogman.com
908-453-2882 • hotdogjohnny.com
Cat’s Incredible Dogs!
Jimmy’s Hot Dogs 505 A Rte. 6/209 Pennsylvania Ave.
2555 Nazareth Road , Easton, PA Matamoras, PA
610-258-7545 570-491-5870
www.catsincredibledogs.com
The Madeleine Islands: Quebec’s Secret Island Paradise
words and images: Ken Aiken
R ising from a vivid blue ocean off the port side of the ship were emerald-green hills atop red sandstone cliffs a hun-
dred-foot-high and a finback whale was swimming parallel to our course. My first view of Entry Island was unlike any
other part of the Appalachians I’d ever seen.
Even with my research they remained a mystery and, despite stories heard, I’d never met anyone who had actually been
there. Basque fishermen had been voyaging to this archipelago to hunt “sea cows” since the early 1500’s, but then, as
now, the best-kept maritime secrets rarely appear on maps. Yet, when the Traversier
docked at Souris on Prince Edward Island, nine bikes rolled out; when it left, it carried four.
Debarking at Grindstone (Cap-aux-Meules) my first stop was just outside the gates of
the ferry terminal at the tourist information center. The local tourist board is happy to
do all the hard work in setting up an itinerary and booking lodging. It appears that
tonight I’ll be sleeping in a convent.
The island of Havre-aux-Maison (House Harbor) is difficult to describe rus, or “sea cows,” once hauled themselves ashore to sunbath) or perhaps
without poetic license. The sea is really blue and the grass is emerald green, it’s because these islands offer a total of 196-miles of pristine sand beaches
but laced by millions of dots of color from the profusion of wildflowers that to choose from. The bike can be parked anywhere: stealing a motorcycle just
grow on these islands. isn’t feasible when the only escape is by boat.
Orange sandstone The highway ends at the quay in Grande-Entrée. Today most of the fish-
cliffs give way to ing fleet is docked and the boutiques and restaurants seem to be moderate-
beaches the color of ly busy. I take some photos, but since I’ve managed to cover less than 30
HAVRE-AUX-MAISON
aged ivory. Further- miles this morning, I want to keep riding. La Grave is at the other end of the
more, imagine a place road so, pulling a U-turn, I head in the opposite direction.
where every home is The southern end of Route 199 terminates at another fishing pier,
although the island of Albert’s Harbor
ENTRY ISLAND (Île du Havre-Aubert) continues for
many kilometers as Sandy Hook, a
long, thin dune that stretches towards
Entry Island. The village of La Grave
was the first settlement in the islands,
established in 1755 by refuges escap-
ing the Acadian Expulsion by the
painted a different color. Originally an Acadian British in Nova Scotia (others sought
tradition developed as identifying beacons for refuge in New Orleans and created
fishermen returning home, it has survived and Cajun culture). The Acadian flag -
matured into a cultural art form that’s actively vertical red, white, and blue stripes
embraced by the Madelinots. Varied hues of pur- with a gold star in the blue - is flown
ple, red, blue, orange, green, and yellow intermin- throughout the islands, but, under-
gle with houses painted pastel turquoise, pink, standably, it’s most prevalent here.
lavender, mint, and mauve. Trimmed in contrasting or
complimentary colors, each differs from their neigh-
bors and it’s a photographer’s dream.
Route 199 is only 54.6-miles (88 km) long and,
despite a few sharp corners, it doesn’t offer any tech-
nical challenges. Its entire length, from the docks in
La Grave to the harbor in Grande Entrée, can be easi-
ly ridden in an hour and a half. The total mileage of all
roads, both gravel and paved, on the archipelago totals
less than 186 miles (300 km). However, all the time,
effort, and expense required just to get me to this high-
way proves to be justified.
ROUTE 199
Live Entertainment and DJ throughout the Summer

Check our website for full schedule
Our Famous Lobster Bake Sunday, Aug. 15
One 12-mile segment of Route 199 runs from

Havre-aux-Maisons to Pointe-aux-Loups and along
North Dune to Grosse Île. On this long, straight stretch
of highway utility poles line each side of the road only
to converge in the distance with heat waves adding a
bit of surrealism to the already gentle undulations of
an asphalt surface built on a foundation of loose sand.
The ocean lines both sides of the highway only to dis-
appear behind a long ridge of grass-anchored sand to
my left. In places the powdery sands of transverse
dunes crest above the road and spill onto its asphalt
shoulders while blue herons stride through the lush
saltwater marshes to my right.
One of the top-ranked beaches in the world arcs
around the East Point National Wildlife Reserve on
Grosse Île. Except for two short stretches on either
end, these 13-continuous miles (22 km) of gorgeous
sand beach are deserted. Perhaps it’s due to the name,
Grande Échouerie Beach (an échouerie is where wal-
SOUTH LIGHT L’ETANG-DU-NORD
La Grave has become an

artist community. Its tiny cedar-
shingled fishing sheds date the work of a contemporary metal sculptor.
from the 19th and early 20th It turns out that an unusually large percentage of the
centuries, but rather than hous- residents are directly descended from the survivors of
ing lobster traps and fishnets, over 400 shipwrecks and many buildings on these islands
they’ve been transformed into were constructed from salvaged ship timbers. One such
small boutiques and galleries example is the Church of St. Pierre in La Vernière (c.
that feature the work of local 1876), which also has the distinction of being the second-
artists and artisans. Café de La largest wooden church in North America.
Grave is in the old general
store, and it’s the place to order
the local specialty, a seafood pie called “pot-en-pot.” I’ve arrived too early
for the small boat-building contest (a hippie soapbox derby for boats) or the
international sand castle competition (anyone can enter, but only castles can
be constructed) that take place during the Acadian Festival during the first
two weeks of August and so set off to explore the rest of the island’s roads.
Spitting stones from my rear tire it was too late to turn back and besides,
even if I could turn around I wouldn’t be able to descend the steep rutted
road. Called Chemin des Appenteurs it turns into a beautiful rarely traveled
dirt road across the peak of the island. Every road has something special to
offer: this one has a rockslide that has exposed beautiful crystals and I
greedily stuffed my tank bag.
In the town of L’Étang-du-Nord on Cap-aux-Mueles Island a cluster of
colorful clapboard-sided boutiques face the sea. The yellow one turns out to
be Café la Côte, where salt-cod pizza is the house specialty. From here the
angular hulk of Duke of Connaught can be seen resting against the rocks of
Savage Head (Cap a Savage). Having rusted to the same red color as the
cliffs, I can’t figure out what it is and have to ask. The locals joke that it’s
delion and berry wine called “bagosse.” The local veal is exquisite, seal
sausage turns out to be quite tasty, and seafood is so abundant, varied, and
VIEW CAP AUX MEULES
inexpensive that you wonder how fisherman manage to make a living.

OR
Smoking fish is an island tradition and Fumoir d’Antan on Île du Havre-

aux-Maisons is a place I want to visit. They’ve created an excellent little
museum in the original smokehouse and the story is clearly presented in
both French and English. Besides the traditional herring they also smoke
mackerel, eel, and scallops. I purchase vacuum packages to bring home and
a couple of “snack-packs” to munch on while riding about—this probably
explains why my tank bag smells a little fishy.
Prior to the creation of Route 199 in 1956, Madelinots had to boat from
island to island. This created very diverse communities unique to their par-
ticular patch of land. Today this remains evident on Entry Island, the only
inhabited one not connected by road. There is a local pedestrian ferry, but
I choose to make the six-mile (10 km) trek across open water in a rubber
boat (Zodiac) operated by Excursions en mer.
ALRIGHT CAPE
Among the grassy dunes, people are obviously searching for something.
It’s wild strawberries season, but this same scene takes place when blueber-
ries and native cranberries are ripe. “Le bon gout frais des Îles (the good
fresh taste of the islands) is a term used to proudly identify local fish and
produce. Pied-De-Vent is a dairy making non-pasteurized cheese from their
own cows; microbrewery À l’abri de la Tempête produces five different
brews from locally grown barley; and Le Barbocheux winery creates a dan-
After circumventing the island and looking at the nesting sites of local
seabirds, including those of the Razorbill Auk, a couple hours remained to
hike up Big Hill for a panoramic view of the archipelago.
The air is incomparably fresh and ocean stretches to the horizon. It’s a fit-
ting goodbye to these islands.
Despite their small size, four days wasn’t long enough to take advantage
of all that the Maggies have to offer and I never tired of going back and forth
on the same roads. Now it’s time to return to Grindstone where I’ll load the
Ducati onto the CMTA Vacancier for a three-day trip up the St. Lawrence
River to Montreal, but somehow I’ll find an excuse to return to the
Madeleine Islands next year.
LODGING
Domaine du Vieux Couvent on the island of Havre aux Maisons (House Harbor) turned out to be a boutique hotel in the old convent. It’s one of
those rare places where everything has been done right in the restoration and the ultra modern décor of it’s ten upper rooms and six apartment
suites somehow works with the austere late 19th-century rooms on the ground level. I learned the details of the entire project - from gutting the
interior to building furniture - that was designed and carried out by local craftsmen with a no-expense spared do-it-right attitude. This locally
owned property is the finest boutique motel I’ve encountered anywhere. It was my introduction to the pride and attitude of island residents. The
view from my windows, stretching across Plaisance Bay to Entry Island, seemed like a fantasy.
I would stay in other properties, each quite different, and in the morning would feel a tug of resistance in having to move on. I easily could have
spent a season ensconced at Havre sur Mer on Havre Aubert writing my novel. Maison des Falaise on Havre aux Maisons is the most-often pho-
tographed house on the islands. The view was extraordinary. The list goes on and includes campsites, inns, and hostels. I highly recommend
using the tourist board to book your stay. Just tell them your needs and let them make the arrangements.
For tourist information: (877) 624-4437 www.tourismeilesdelamadeleine.com

For ferry information and reservations: (888) 986-5101 www.ctma.ca Departs from Souris, PEI at 2 PM on most days. Arrive an hour in advance.
Domaine du Vieux Couvent: (418) 969-2233 www.domaineduvieuxcouvent.com
Havre sur Mer: (418) 937-5675 www.havresurmer.com
Léon LaPierre: (888) 818-4537 (418) 986-6565 Rent a motorcycle or, if you have problems with yours call to have him pick it up.
LOCATION
The Madeleine Islands (Îles de la Madeleine) are one of those rare “in” places to ride, but few have heard of them. Located in the Gulf of St.
Lawrence approximately 134 miles (215 km) east of the Gaspe, 65 miles (105 km) north of Prince Edward Island, and 60 miles (95 km) west of
Cape Breton, the “Maggies” are considered to be a northern segment of the Appalachian Mountains and belong to the province of Quebec.
Authoritative sources can’t even agree on the extent of their land area (somewhere between 77 and 88 square miles), but there are seven inhab-
ited islands and all but one are connected by a single highway.
Turkey • Bulgaria • Romania on Two Wheels

The EU has helped to re-build the roads in both countries, which has
The expectation of going to Third World Countries was one of over- resulted in good roads with lots of twisites that are now comparable to the
words and images: Burt Richmond
cooked gray mystery meat, boiled potatoes and second-rate hotels. Boy, best of the Alps and the Dolomites. However, when they are bad, they are
were we in for a big surprise as the beef, lamb, chicken and fish were all really potholed and slow going. Evolution will eventually bring all of them
fresh and cooked to temperature as ordered. The vegetables, fruits & salads up to EU standards.
were brightly colored, succulent and juicy. Fifty years of Communist While this was never
oppression has been quickly overcome to bring Bulgaria and Romania into promoted as a pure
the 21st Century with ambition, gusto and entrepreneurial spirit. motorcycle riding
As Svetlana, our Sofia guide, trip, we had many
explained the colors of their long stretches that
flag, we began to get a feel of were moto nirvana.
the Bulgarian mind set: “White Romania uses the
is for our freedom, red is for French kilometer
the blood that was spilled to monuments system,
achieve that freedom and the which made naviga-
green represents the fertile hills tion much easier.
Riding through centuries of history is very stim-

ulating and enriching. Yes, we had two weeks of
serious intellectual, visual and aural enrichment.
Between the historic Byzantine period and the
influence of the Ottoman Empire we had abundant
examples of Greek Orthodox churches & monas-
taries with their brightly colored murals painted on
and valleys that produce abundant the exterior walls. There are also the Russian
fresh food that we enjoy.” Then she Orthodox structures, with their ‘onion dome’ char-
said that these colors are best visual- acteristic steeples. In Istanbul, we toured the Blue
ized with their traditional Shopska Mosque, Hagia Sofia, Topkapi Palace, the Spice
salad of grated white cheese over Market and the Grand Bazaar before we boarded a
sliced tomatoes and cucumbers. boat for a Bosporus cruise past stately palaces and
But, back to putting our foot in the private mansions.
waters of the Black Sea and the Third World cultures and history of
Romania and Bulgaria. Their admission to the EU two years ago has dra-
matically changed their patriotism and pride in being part of the bigger
European Community. The EU has helped change the infrastructure with
new roads, improved rail systems and telecommunications. These two coun-
tries have thrown off the yoke of Communism with great vigor that is truly
refreshing.
C Y C L E P R O D U C T S, N. A.
No Competition.
Precise. Lightweight. Comfortable. Essential.
Seats available for late model Ducati motorcycles.
P E R F O R M A N C E S E A T S www.SargentCycle.com Call 1-800-749-7328.

The countryside was alive with farmers toiling away in the colored buildings. Town squares had
fields. We shared the road with their horse drawn carts of all fountains, flowers and happy people
descriptions hauling people and produce to market. We passed enjoying their surroundings.
miles of sunflowers contributing their brightness to our rides. Bucharest is a modern city of 2
In Romania we could feel joyous people in brightly colored million that easily shares historic
traditional clothing. Even their homes echoed the radiance of architecture intertwined with avant-
Nature’s palette. The Medieval villages were alive with pastel garde structures. Hotels tended to be
very upscale. In Bucharest it was an
elegant 4-star former politico man-
sion. We spent a day touring historic
sights, including the Romanian
Triumphant Arch located along a
wide boulevard that gives the city the
title of Paris of Eastern Europe. The Ceau-escu Palace has become the
Romanian Parliament building after his execution in 1986, the second
largest building in the world after the US Pentagon. It is huge and opu-
lent with inlaid marble floors and magnificent crystal chandeliers.
Modern shops and restaurants lined narrow cobbled streets. Churches,
synagogues and mosques were abundant for all faiths.
Brasov, the nearby ski town of Poiana Brasov and Bran, brought us
SHIRA’S ICE CREAM RIDE - AUGUST 2010 • OWOWCOW CREAMERY

4105 DURHAM RD, OTTSVILLE, PA • 610-847-7070
HOURS: MON-SAT: NOON TO 10PM • SUNDAY: NOON TO 9PM
GPS ROUTE FROM CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN: WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/FILE/2PPG5V • GPS ROUTE FROM APPLEGATE FARMS: WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/FILE/O8DXR1
STARTING POINT - CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN, LEFT ONTO CR 626

RTES. 15/206, AUGUSTA, NJ
LEFT ONTO BUCKHORN ROAD
SOUTH ON ROUTE 206 LEFT ONTO CASTNERS ROAD
RIGHT ONTO PRICE ROAD LEFT ONTO CR 647
LEFT ONTO AUGUSTA HILL ROAD RIGHT ONTO MONTANA ROAD
STRAIGHT ONTO CR 519 RIGHT ONTO ALLENS MILLS ROAD
RIGHT ONTO CR 626 RIGHT ONTO FOX FARM ROAD
RIGHT ONTO OLD STAGE COACH ROAD LEFT ONTO UNIONTOWN ROAD
LEFT ONTO CHURCH ROAD RIGHT ONTO LIBERTY ROAD/CR 637
LEFT ONTO CR 626 RIGHT ONTO CR 639
LEFT ONTO PARSON ROAD RIGHT ONTO MUNICIPAL ROAD
RIGHT ONTO JUNCTION ROADRIGHT ONTO CR 622
LEFT ONTO CR 519
LEFT ONTO RIDGE ROAD RIGHT ONTO CREEK ROAD
BEAR LEFT - STAY ON RIDGE ROAD LEFT ONTO MOUNTAIN ROAD
LEFT ONTO WEST END DRIVE RIGHT ONTO PINCHERS POINT ROAD (MAY BE GRAVEL)
LEFT ONTO RTE. 94 LEFT ONTO RIVER ROAD
RIGHT ONTO WILLOWS ROAD/CR 618 RIGHT OVER RIEGELSVILLE BRIDGE
RIGHT ONTO RTE. 206 SOUTH LEFT ONTO ROUTE 611
IMMEDIATE RIGHT ONTO CR 611 LEFT ONTO RIVER ROAD
BEAR LEFT ONTO HUNTSVILLE RD RIGHT ONTO NARROWS HILL ROAD
RIGHT ONTO PEQUEST ROAD LEFT ONTO KINTNER HILL ROAD
RIGHT ONTO KENNEDY ROAD
LEFT ONTO LONELY COTTAGE ROAD
LEFT ONTO HAMILTON ROAD RIGHT ONTO MARIENSTEIN ROAD
LEFT ONTO SOUTH ST LEFT ONTO ROCK RIDGE ROAD
RIGHT ONTO CR 612 RIGHT ONTO GEIGEL HILL ROAD
LEFT ONTO BEAR CREEK ROAD RIGHT ONTO DURHAM ROAD
RIGHT ONTO SHADES OF DEATH ROAD ARRIVE AT 4105 DURHAM RD/OWOWCOW ON RIGHT
RIGHT ONTO SOUTH TOWN ROAD
LEFT ONTO HELLER ROAD
LEFT ONTO STATE PARK ROAD
RIGHT ONTO SHILOH ROAD Disclaimer: As with all Rip & Ride Route
Sheets, we recommend following the
LEFT ONTO JENNY JUMP ROAD ride first on a map. This way you’ll
have a better idea of where you’re
LEFT ONTO CR 519 going and have more fun doing it!
LEFT ONTO LAKE JUST IT ROAD
LEFT ONTO RADER ROAD
RIGHT ONTO FREE UNION ROAD
RIGHT ONTO US 46 WEST
LEFT ONTO RTE. 31
RIGHT ONTO BELVIDERE AVE/CR 624
LEFT ONTO BUCKLEY ROAD
RIGHT ONTO CR 623
to the mythical Dracula Castle overlooking a major north-south former toll road that the Hapsburgs’
controlled. This was recently ceded back to a Hapsburg heir living in the US and is operated as a pop-
ular tourist site. One could easily imagine life in medieval times in the Bran Castle, as it is known
®
Rip & Ride
locally.
A strong bond between Russia and Bulgaria was created centuries ago when the Czar sent troops
DOGS ON THE DELAWARE
south to help the Bulgars repel the advances of the Ottoman Empire. Interestingly, the Patriarch of the
Greek Orthodox Church sent Friar Cyril and Friar Dmitri to convert the Slavic-speaking Thracians and
DOWNLOAD GPS ROUTE HERE:
Bulgars, who did not have a written language. They developed a new alphabet that was of Greek ori-
WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/FILE/MVA7KH
gin for the Slavic sounds, ergo the Cyrillic alphabet evolved, which was subsequently adopted by the
Czar’s court. Navigating our way in Bulgaria was a bit challenging at 100kph once we were off the
major highways where signage was only in Cyrillic.
START: PJ’S HOT DOG HOUSE, SPARTA, NJ
This was a fun trip full of history, warm friendly people, great local cuisine and wine plus those
wonderful mountain twisties!
SOUTH ON WHITE DEER PLAZA
CR 613 ALONG LAKE
LEFT AT LENAPY RD If you’d like to explore this part of the world, Kazoom Moto Adventures can take you there. Kazim
LEFT AT MAIN ST. CR 517 Uzunoglu, owner/tourguide, is a licensed Turkish History guide, who put himself through the
University of Virginia by running bus tours for American/British, Canadian and German tourists dur-
RIGHT AT CR 667 ing the summers. Then went on to get his MbA in Economics in Istanbul. He is the most competent
RIGHT AT CR 612 guide I have ever worked with, who provides incredible insight into the history and culture of the
region, including Romania and Bulgaria. Actually, he has run tours that circumnavigate the Black
LEFT AT CR 615 Sea and the Caspian Sea. He speaks English better than we do, and has a great sense of humor. You
RIGHT AT CR 613 can find him here: www.kazoom-moto-adventures.com.
RIGHT AT ALPHANO RD Kazim Uzunoglu • Kazoom Moto Adventures

100/1 Mesrutiyet Cad. Beyoglu Istanbul 34430 Turkey • kazim@baltactours.com
RIGHT AT RTE. 46 WEST
TO HOT DOG JOHNNY’S
LEFT AT TITMAN RD
LEFT AT CR 519 Cycle Insurance Agency Inc.
IN ALPHA RIGHT AT CREEK RD Recreational Vehicle Specialists
LEFT AT RIVER RD
RIGHT AT CR 627 Agents who ride and understand
your Motorcycle Insurance Needs MEMBER
LEFT AT BRIDGE ST MEMBER
RIGHT AT CR619
Ask about our Tour Cycle Program – the Ultimate in Coverage
RIGHT AT RTE. 29 TO RIVER HOT DOG MAN
AND DELAWARE TUBING Passenger Coverage • Accessories Coverage
CROSS BRIDGE TO PA
Medical Payments Coverage
NORTH ON RTE. 32
BEAR RIGHT AT RTE. 611 TO EASTON 448 Lincoln Ave • Hawthorne NJ 07506 • 973-427-2246
LEFT AT NORTH HAMPTON ST / RTE. 248 www.CycleInsuranceAgency.com
RIGHT AT NAZARETH RD
JIMMY’S HOT DOGS IN 25TH STREET MALL Serving New Jersey, New York and Pennsylvania • ATV • Jet Ski • Snowmobile
Oh Sullivan’s Woodport House

BACK TO RTE. 611 NORTH
BEAR RIGHT AT MARTINS CREEK
BELVIDERE HIGHWAY
LEFT AT RIVERTON RD. BEFORE BRIDGE 125 State Route 181 • Lake Hopatcong NJ • 973-222-1128
HARD RIGHT TO RIVER RD www.woodporthouse.com
P/U RTE. 611 NORTH
LEFT AT BROAD ST
Every Thursday Night
Rain (inside) or Shine
TAKE SR 2028 NORTH ALONG RIVER
POSSIBLE DETOURS Sign Up
Special Food and Drink Prices for a
RIGHT AT COMMUNITY DR Entertainment with DJ Kathy FREE
RIGHT AT RTE. 209 NORTH TO MILFORD Waverunner
RIGHT AT US 6 TO CAT’S INCREDIBLE DOGS!
Disclaimer: As with all Rip & Ride Route Sheets,

Boat and Bike Night
CHESTER’s SOUTHERN FRIED CHICKEN in addition to our regular menu of great food
we recommend following the ride first on a
Legs, Thighs, Breasts, Wings, Biscuits, Gravy, Potato Wedges, Mac n’ Cheese, Corn Dogs, etc.
map. This way you’ll have a better idea of
are always available. Burgers, Steamed Clams, Cuban Sandwiches, Hot Italians, BBQ Ribs, and more.
Check our website for Specials and for Weekend Bands
where you’re going and have more fun doing it!
D
Birthday Ride
rifting off the night before one of my last thoughts was, ‘I’m getting up tomorrow for a sunrise birth-
day ride’.
This wasn’t a big birthday, no milestone this time around the sun, but still worthy of observing and
this day always deserves respect.
My eyes fluttered open at 5:30 am - right on schedule and giving Shira a little peck on the cheek I quietly slipped out of
bed and into my riding gear.
Rolling the bike out of the barn I fired the quiet R1200GS up and rolled out of the drive into the early morning light that
was just flittering through the forest.
Riding down into open farm land Sol, my good morning friend, had just arrived over the horizon to the east and the fog
that had draped this part of northern New Jersey the past few nights hung heavy on the fields.
The first rays of the day pierced through the mist, giving the landscape an almost ethereal feel.
A Motorcycle Is
The Ultimate Toy,
Vermont Is
The Perfect Playground®
TRAMA’S
MOTORCYCLE
We put it together…
The Gray Ghost Inn

& AUTO SCHOOL
Motorcyclist-Friendly Destination Lodging

Located on Scenic Route 100 in Southern Vermont
290 Route 100 • West Dover, VT

800-745-3615 • www.grayghostinn.com
TRAMA’S
AUTO SCHOOL INC.
87-15 Jamaica Avenue
Woodhaven, NY 11421
PHONE
(212) 874-6333
(516) 541-1119
(718) 847-2015
Full breakfast cooked to order. BYOB bar, hot tub, EMAIL
outdoor firepit, pool and game room. Free Maps TRAMAS847@AOL.COM
and Suggested Rides. Group Special Packages. WEB

WWW.TRAMAS.COM
5 restaurants/bars within walking distance.
Stopping for that digital moment a car rolled up alongside me; Heidi, a friend from the gym and
what we call a neighborhood up here in Sussex County. She was out early and we both agreed it was
a lovely way to start a birthday.
I took a small road I know of that would bring me around the Paulinskill, one of the more pristine
parts of New Jersey. The only ones out this early besides me were wishful fishermen. Some in boats,
others sitting outside their trucks and cars, poles jammed into braces and lines running out from shore.
Heading south a pair of doe ran alongside me through the forest as the GS sang through the twists
and turns that make up this region.
Crossing over another bridge
the fog and sun mixed it up once
again and I was compelled to
stop and shoot.
Crossing near Swartswood
Lake I headed up into the hill
and a large rafter of turkeys
crossed the road - the Godfather
of the American bird and once, almost, our nation-
al symbol. I prefer the bald eagle.
Mr. Rabbit bounded across my path, but a slight
tap on the brakes and we missed an unfortunate
situation.
Near the top of the ridge that makes up the
Kittatinys, which border Walpack Valley, I glanced
to my right to see a good sized black bear hugging
a tree.
I stopped. He
stopped. I began
to roll on and he
ran along the
forest too - not
liking the BMW
much at all.
Not much further on a nide of pheasants, all sorts of
purples and reds blocked my path. Early morning rides
here in northwestern New Jersey allow for all sorts of
critters.
By this time I could feel the warmth of the day arriv-
ing and I course corrected towards home.
Passing near the Stillwater Firehouse, a pair of deer
- mom and speckled baby - stopped to watch me pass,
the little one bounding back and forth unsure what to
do. She followed her mother’s lead back into the fields
while I stopped for one last birthday picture.
The sign at the firehouse simply read, “Have a Safe
and Happy Fourth of July.”
Rollin’ Fast
Cycle Sports
104 Main Street
Lebanon, New Jersey 08833
STORE HOURS: MON, TUES, WED, FRI 9-6
THURS 9-7 • SATURDAY 9-5
www.rollinfast.com
908.236.9000
UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR What’s Happenin’
E V E RY M O N T H - W E AT H E R P E R M I T T I N G 200, 5 door prize tix. More info: www.carolinasbmwmoa.org/rally.html

Saturday • Bergen County H-D/BMW Saddle Up Saturdays and BBQ • 124 Essex St, 13-15 • Ride the Roof of North America with the 21st gathering of the BIG DOGS.
Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenharleydavidson.com Ridgway, CO. Hobnob with Pikes Peak, Paris Dakar and Baja 1000 finishers, enjoy mul-
timedia shows, devour famed Mike Landry Cajun Gumbo and 2” thick T-bone steaks.
Second Sunday • Philadelphia Breakfast Ride. Meet at Silk City Diner - 5th/Spring FOR EXPERIENCED OFF-ROAD ADVENTURE RIDERS ONLY! Hosted by BMW of Denver
Garden, Philadelphia PA - 8am • 215-922-2214 and Bob’s BMW. Limited entrant invitational. For more info • Clem Cykowski at 303-
Every Sunday • Eastern Suffolk ABATE Breakfast Run. Crossroads Diner - Calverton 755-6400 • bigdogbmw@yahoo.com • www.horizonsunlimited.com/bigdog
NY. 10:30am. Eat and Ride After • 631-369-2221 15 • Ride for Kids - New England • www.rideforkids.org
First Sunday of the month • Layton Meet at the Layton Deli, corner of 15 • Cedar Rapids Annual Legendary Lobster Bake. Rte. 97, Barryville, NJ. Advanced
Dingmans/Bevans Rd, CR 560, Layton, NJ. Meet around 8am – breakfast available. Join tickets only. Live outdoor entertainment all riverside • 845-557-6158 •
others for a ride or head out on your own www.cedarrapidsny.com
Every Tuesday • The Ear - Spring St, NYC. Come meet some fellow riders and do some 21-21 • 9/11 Memorial Ride. Largest Police-escorted motorcycle ride to all three sites.
benchracing or whatever. 8pm-ish Starting locations in Connecticutt, Ohio, Pennsylvania, NY, NJ and Virginia. For com-
Third Tuesday • 7:30pm ABATE of the Garden State, North Jersey chapter. Black River plete information please visit www.Americas911foundation.org • 877-771-0118
Barn, 1178 Rt. 10 West, Randolph, NJ. 7:30pm. New members and all mc brands wel- 21 • Orange County Choppers End of Summer Charity Poker Run. Sign in: 9am @ OCC,
come. Help fight for rights as a motorcyclist in NJ! Alex Martinez 973-390-1918 14 Crossroads Ct, Newburgh, NY; $25/rider; $10/pass. To benefit Literacey Orange -
First Wednesday of the Month • Bergen County H-D/BMW Hump Day MusicFest. Open Books Open Doors. Scenic ride to local Orange County historic sites. More than
Free concert from 6-9pm • 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • $1000 in prizes for best three poker hands. Includes lunch, vendors and more. •
www.bergenharleydavidson.com www.orangecountychoppers.com
Every Wednesday • Country Bike Night at the Airport Pub sponsored by the American 21 • Liberty Harley-Davidson Kids Day with yard sale, refreshments and more. Blood
Legion Riders Post 132, Franklin, NJ • 6pm - ? • CR 639, Sussex, NJ - next to the air- Drive from 1-5pm. Call ahead for appt. • 12 W. Milton Ave, Rahway, NJ. 732-381-
port • 973-702-1215 2400 • www.libertyharley.com
Every Wednesday • Bike Night at Tramontin Harley-Davidson, Exit 12 of I-80, Hope, NJ 22 • 38th Foggy Mountain Reliability Run. Timed Road Run. Call or send email address
• 6-9pm • 908-459-4101 • www.tramontinhd.com for notification • fwspeeryamaha@aol.com • 973-778-6256
Every Thursday • Bike Night at the Chatterbox Drive-in sponsored by Tramontin H-D 22 • Joe Pitt Benefit Memorial Ride. Sign in: Dog House, 17 N . Midland Ave, Nanuet,
and Rider Insurance. Corners of Rtes. 15 + 206, Augusta, NJ. Great food, outdoor seat- NY 9-11am. $25 Pre-reg/$30 DOV.Scenic ride through Orange/Rockland Cty, NY with
ing, DJ spinning tunes • 973-300-2300 • www.chatterboxdrivein.com route sheets. Incl. food, refreshments, music, door prizes and more.
Every Thursday • Red Knights XX PA at the Dairy Queen, Route 209, Marshall’s Creek, 22 • 10th Annual Pop’s Run hosted by the Nassau Wing MC to benefit the Amyloid
PA, exit 309 off Route 80 • 6-9:30pm, weather permitting Research Team at the Boston University School of Medicine. Sign in 9-10:30am at
Every Thursday • Bike Night at The Old Schoolhouse Restaurant, Rte. 206, Yamaha/Suzuki/Victory of Mineola, 336 Jericho Tpke, Mineola NY. $20/pp includes
Downsville, NY • 607-363-7814 ride, music, food, door prizes and more • www.popsrun.org • 516-680-0178
Every Thursday • Bike and Boat Nite at Woodport House/Sullivan’s Marina, 125 Route 24-31 • Carolina Motorcycle Rental and Tours …to the Races Tour to benefit the Ride for
181, Lake Hopatcong, NJ. 6-10 pm starting May 22. DJ, music, food and drink specials. Kids®. You can be a part of the action at the Red Bull Indianapolis GP this August! Join
Partial proceeds to benenfit ASPCA • www.woodporthouse.com us on the …to the RACES TOUR and take a parade lap around the GP track on Saturday,
Aug. 28, 2010. The Lap of Champions is limited to 300 motorcycles, so reserve your
Every Friday • Bike Night at O’Toole’s H-D. Open until 8pm. Food available. 4 Sullivan spot on the …to the RACES TOUR before it sells out. A portion of the tour price will be
St, Wurtsboro, NY • 845-888-2426 • www.otooleshd.com donated to Ride for Kids. 866-997-3305 • www.carolinamotorcyclerentals.com
JULY 2010
22-25 • MountainFest Motorcycle Rally, Morgantown, WV. 4-day pass includes access
to all bands, attractions and entertainment. For details: www.wvmountainfest.com
23-25 • Carlisle Bike Fest is the Mid-Atlantic’s premier motorcycle event! Thousands of
two-wheel fanatics will converge on the 102-acre Carlisle PA Fairgrounds for non-stop
entertainment, an unbeatable motorcycle shopping experience, breathtaking and his-
RISING WOLF GARAGE NYC
toric local rides, giveaways all weekend long and the chance to ride the latest models EXCLUSIVE MOTORCYCLE PARKING FACILITY
from manufacturers. The ride to the Carlisle PA Fairgrounds, located less than 200 miles
from five metropolitan areas throughout the East Coast, is almost as much fun as the
event itself. For more details: www.carsatcarlisle.com/ce/events/bikefest W e p r o v i d e a f r i e n d l y, c l e a n a n d s e c u r e
23-25 • Empire BikeFest, Oswego Speedway, Oswego, NY. Taking place during environment for the motorcycle enthusiast
Harborfest. For full details please visit www.empirebikefest.com
24 • Ride for Kids - Marysville, OH • www.rideforkids.org
25 • Wurstboro HOG and O’Toole’s HD St. Jude’s Cancer Run. Sign in at 4 Sullivan St, Service Area
Wurtsboro, NY • 845-888-2426 • www.otooleshd.com
Personal Storage
31 • Bergen Sport Cycle Bikini Bike Wash/Raffle. Noon to 4pm. FREE - donations wel-
come • 30 US Hwy 46 East, Lodi, NJ • www.bergensportcycle.com • 973-478-7711 Air Compressor
31 • Sport Honda Bike Club Day and Bike Wash. 911 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ •
732-906-9292 • www.sporthonda.net Battery Charging
31 • One Year Open House Celebration at Mavrix Motorsports, 21 Dunning Rd,
Middletown, NY. FUll Throdle Promotions Stunt Riders 11am to 4pm. Great Chicken
BBQ, specials and demo rides • www.mavrixmotorsports.com • 845-344-2453
31/Aug. 1 • O’Toole’s HD has the Factory Demo Truck on-site. Dem rides 9am-4pm. 4
Sullivan St, Wurtsboro, NY • 845-888-2426 • www.otooleshd.com
AUGUST 2010 Monthly Parking

1 • Ride for Kids - Hudson Valley, NY • www.rideforkids.org
Long & Short Term
5 • COG Northeast Regional Summer Rally. The annual ‘Summer Bash’ rally returns to
Vermont in lavish style at Mt. Snow Resort. Come ride the gaps of the Green Mountains 24 Hour Access
and experience ‘sport-touring at it’s finest.’ Check the Concours Owners Group
Northeast calendar of events at www.cog-online.org • 978-459-6275 Video Surveillance
7 • Curtiss Class Motorcycle Celebration. SR 54, Hammondsport, NY • 607-569-2160
• www.glenncurtissmuseum.org
8 • Ride for Kids - Pittsburgh, PA • www.rideforkids.org By Appointment Only
12 • 5-8 pm • Bike Night at Cliff’s Cycle Revolution, 485 Federal Rd, Brookfield, CT • East Village NYC
203-740-1279. Food, fun, DJ, door prizes, Giveaways, 50/50, car & bike awards and Ph: 212 475 5858
more • www.cliffscyclerevolution.com
Fx: 212 505 5205
12-15 • 33rd Annual Daniel Boone Rally & Vintage/Classic Ride-in. Three states, one
rally. KOA Campground in Boone, NC - rain or shine. Ride Blue Ridge Parkway and High
Country, Southwstern VA and NE TN . On-site rally fee: $40/pp. Pre-reg by Aug. 7: save
risingwolfgarage@aol.com
10%. Incl. 2 nites camping, catered BBQ dinner Sat., donut/coffee Sun., rally pin first
UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR What’s Happenin’
28 • O’Toole’s-A-Palooza Battle of the Bands at O’Toole’s Harley-Davidson, 4 Sullivan St, 19 • 3rd Annual Ride for the Pride Poker Run to benefit Belvidere Lions Club. Sign in:
Wurtsboro, NY. 20 bands starting at Noon; $25 reg. fee. Winner gets $500. Call Tom Tramontin H-D, Exit 12 I-80, Hope, NJ. 9:30-11am. $20/rider incl. picnic/bbq with live
for full details at 845-699-3169 • www.otooleshd.com music at Hotel Belvidere, Belvidere, NJ. Unescorted 80-mile scenic ride through
28 • 2nd Annual Schenectady Thunder ARTBIKE Festival. State St, downtown Sussex/Warren Ctys. Cash prizes, door prizes, 50/50 drawing • 908-475-3418 •
Schenectady, NY. 11am-6pm. 3 live bands, photo exhibit, food, vendors, more • 518- www.belviderelionsclub.com
464-8933 19 • Ride for Kids - Philadelphia, PA • www.rideforkids.org
29 • Ride for Kids - Asheville, NC • www.rideforkids.org 19 • 3rd Annual Pony Express MC Poker Run to benefit American Cancer Society. Sign
31-Sept. 3 • Curve Cowboy Reunion, Killington, VT. Gathering of K12LT, but open to all in/endsite: My Place, 911 Little Britain Rd, New Windsor, NY. 9-11am. $20/rider; $35
brands and models of motorcycle • www.curvecowboyreunion.com two up. Food, door prizes, live music. Non-riders welcome at endsite at 1pm. $20/pp
• www.ponyexpressmchv.net • PEMCHV@gmail.com • 845-361-4133
SEPTEMBER 2010 23-26 • Rolling Thru Maine. All the magnificence of Americade but the size of a fami-
3 • AMA Superbike Championship, New Jersey Motorsports Park, Millville, NJ. The ly reunion. Tours, lodging and special activities. www.rollingthruamerica.com
most popular event in the short history of New Jersey Motorsports Park was last sea- 25 • Cliff’s Cycle Revolution Vintage Days • www.cliffscyclerevolution.com • 203-
son’s debut of the AMA Pro Superbike Championship. Already one of the favorites on 740-1279 • 485 Federal Rd, Brookfield, CT.
the series calendar, the event establishes a Labor Day tradition at NJMP for the series
26 • AMT Children of Hope Mystery Tour. Sign in/Endsite: Cedar Creek Park, 3340 E.
and Mid-Atlantic motorcycle race fans. www.njmotorsportspark.com
Merrick Rd, Seaford, NY @ 10:30am. $20/bike+rider; $15/passenger. Chicken Wing
3-6 • Rolling Thru Vermont. All the magnificence of Americade but the size of a fami- contest, food and music. Prize for best poker hand. For more info:516-781-3511 •
ly reunion. Tours, lodging and special activities. www.rollingthruamerica.com www.amtchildrenofhope.com
9-12 • Killington Classic Motorcycle Rally. Town of Killington. Vermont’s Premier 26 • Ride for Kids - Baltimore/Washington, DC • www.rideforkids.org
Motorcycle Rally. For more info: www.killingtonclassic.com
12 • Lost Wheels MC 35th Annual Poker Run. Sign in: Dutchess Stadium, Rt. 9D, OCTOBER 2010
Fishkill, NY. 9-11:30am. AMA: $23; non-AMA: $25; Under 15: $10. Endsite: Canopus 7 • COG Northeast Regional Fall Rally. Natural Bridge, Virginia offers first class accomo-
Lake Beach Area, Fahnestock St. Park, Carmel, NY. Live entertainment by Guys Night dations and great sport-touring riding. For more information check the Concours
Out, vendors, food, 50/50, door prizes, trophies, games, ride-in bike show. Awards for Owners Group Northeast calendar of events at www.cog-online.org • 540-582-9414
Best Rep Club, games, bike show and poker hands • www.lostwheels.com 17 • Ride for Kids - Knoxville, TN • www.rideforkids.org
12 • 2nd Annual Poker Lime Run to benefit Multiple Sclerosis. Sign in: Baer Sport 24 • American Spirit MC Annual Tombstone Tour to benefit Hicksville Post of the
Center, 330 Grandview Ave, Honesdale, PA or Masonic Harmony Lodge #8, 519 Rte. Veterans of Foreign Wars. Sign in: VFW Hall, 320 So. Broadway, Hicksville, NY – 9 to
206, Andover Twnshp, NJ. 9am-Noon. $20/pp. Scenic ride through the Delaware 10am. $20/rider; $10/pass. Food, music, prizes • www.americanspiritmcinc.com •
Valley/Kittatiny Range to Walpack Inn for a fantastic meal. Live music and prizes for top 516-485-8270
hands and best times • 570-253-2000 • 973-948-3890
12 • Larz Anderson Classic European Motorcycle Day, Brookline, MA JULY 2011
17-19 • 3rd Annual Boxer Shorts at Snow Farm Rally. Limited to 40 private double 17-24 • Head off with Backroads’ publishers Brian & Shira for a tour of a lifetime as we
rooms, this spouse-friendly artist retreat center near the Berkshires at Snow Farm in join up with Edelweiss for their High Alpine Tour. Ride the roads you have dreamed of
Williamsburg, MA. Great roads and legalized off-roading in nearby October Mtn. State in the past - Paso Del Stelvio, the Grossglockner, the famed Dolomites. We’ll even have
Forest. $140/pp includes full breakfast Sat/Sun and fancy dinner Sat. Pre-reg deadline a day’s ride to Venice. For all the information you’ll need to book this great trip, please
Rider Education
Aug. 15. For more info and mailing address email vcruz@mediapr.net email Doris at Edelweiss Travel: doris.waldegger@edelweissbike.com
17-19 • MotoGiro USA. Finger Lakes Region, NY. Headquarters TBD. For more info: Karl
Smolenski and Alia Howard • ksmolenski@yahoo.com • www.motogiro-usa.com
Of New Jersey Inc.
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*Rider Education of New Jersey, Inc. has been approved by the Motor Vehicle Commission
to offer the New Jersey Motorcycle Safety Education Course.
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS
Z900.US ACCESSORIES FOR THE FANS OF THE
LEGENDARY KAWASAKI MUSCLEBIKE
Which slogan could better describe the first real musclebike of all times which was introduced
by Kawasaki back in 1972? The high-quality black T-shirts and hoodie shirts with white letter-
ing are available exclusively from the www.Z900.us online shop. The shirts are available in
sizes S through 3XL. Retail prices start at 20Euros plus 5Euros for shipping and handling. The
accessory range also contains Z1, Z900 and Z1000 BOULEVARD street signs and a US-Style
“Z1 PARKING ONLY” sign.
SUMMER CATALOG FROM WHITEHORSE GEAR

Just recently we spent some time with Dan, Judy and crew at Whitehorse GEAR’s very large
factory store in Center Conway, New Hampshire. The place is a virtual candy store for riders
and if you are ever in the region you must stop
by. For those of you who can’t this summer we
recommend the next best thing; simply give them
a call and they will send you their Summer 2010
catalog. You can reach them by phone at 800-531-1133 or on the web at whitehorsegear.com.
Ask Jeff for the secret Steely Dan line of the day and if you guess the album Jeff will personally wash your ride!
NEW H-D TOURING RUBBER FROM AVON

The new Cobra has been designed to sustain heavier loads over
long distances as a result of a triple-belted, six-ply construction.
For improved handling and stability, the new Cobra utilizes an
advanced sport touring tire technology with a solid rubber block
tread design that virtually eliminates irregular wear and also
extends tire life. For improved reliability and responsiveness
when braking in wet conditions, the new Cobra features an
Inverted Front Groove (IFG) tread design, while the unique
“snakeskin” sidewall design delivers the ultimate style. For more
information, visit www.avonmoto.com/products/cruiser-touring-
custom/cobra or call (800) 624-7470.
BACKROADS gladly accepts press releases.

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one of the bikes broke down. Motorbikes are common in the Philippines so
we could always find someone to fix a bike, but they wouldn’t be accepting
credit cards. It wasn’t a lot of cash, maybe $100-$150 each, but to some
poor shagger it could be 6 months’ salary. No need to tempt anyone by
flashing cash.
A bike was delivered to my hotel the next morning. There are few big
bikes in the Philippines. There was the occasional 200cc dual sport bike, but
Motorcycling Adventures most are under 125cc. People in the USA would call them scooters. My bike
was a Honda XRM, a dual sport bike with a 110cc 4 stroke air cooled
engine. It is built and sold only in the Philippines and designed for their
in the Philippines rugged roads. The XRM had a step through frame and a clutch-less 4 speed
rotary transmission. The shift pattern was the reverse of what I used on my
bike at home. Out of habit I
occasionally found myself
The Philippines is a chain of 7,000 tropical islands in Southeast Asia that downshifting when I wanted to
Words and images: Christopher A. Bowling
conjure up images of palm trees and white sand beaches but I thought it up shift and vice versa. The
would be a perfect place for motorcycling. An internet search lead to XRM is lightweight, comfort-
Motorcycle Adventure Tours Philippines (adventuretoursphilippines.com). able and durable, all desirable
For a single rider, they suggested a series of day trips from their headquar- qualities because as Greg said,
ters in Dumaguete City in the Negros Oriental province. For $115 a day, the Philippines have some fan-
MATPI provided a bike, fuel, third party insurance, entrance fees to attrac-
tions, a helmet, and a guide with knowledge of the area.
Once in Dumaguete, I met with my tour guide Greg. After the paperwork,
we reviewed the schedule. We would start out the next day and drive South
to Tambobo Bay. The second day we would take a ferry to Siquijor Island
and spend two nights. Then back to Dumaguete to ride north to Twin Lakes. tastic places to see but you have
he final day would be a ride to a geothermic area called PNOC. Greg to take some really crappy roads
stressed to always be on our toes. Though we were sticking to known safe to get to them.
areas, the Philippines can be dangerous. Greg, who is Australian, and I It takes a while getting used to
would stick out like sore thumbs. The idea was to be low key and never tell driving in a new country on an
anyone where we are going. Poverty is common in the Philippines, especial- unfamiliar machine. Filipinos
ly in the provinces where we were heading. We had to carry cash in case drive on the right side of the
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road but there is a lack of traffic lights and traffic rules. Intersections are After riding for an hour, we
chaotic because vehicles just mesh together. Dumaguete isn’t that big, but turned onto a nondescript look-
there were a lot of vehicles hap- ing dirt road. Greg said we
hazardly squeezing through nar- would take this road to
row streets. There were an Tambobo Bay, which he
excessive number of bikes rid- described as a place where “rich
ing through a canyon of parked guys parked their yachts.” It
scooters lining either side of the was a fun ride as the road
street. Right before I arrived, the snaked through open fields and
area experienced some unsea- jungle and eventually ending up
sonably heavy rains which at Tambobo Bay, which indeed
caused severe flooding and had some yachts anchored it in.
The road turned parallel to the
water and went through a bamboo hut village. We stopped at a bayside
restaurant and had a delicious lunch of chicken adobo, a famous Filipino
damage. We had to make dish. Tambobo would have been a great place to stay, as the entire village
detours as we encountered sec- was very laid back with a relaxing atmosphere. After lunch, we backtracked
tions of road that were missing to the main highway. From there we took back roads through the country-
or had debris and mounds of side to Dumaguete. Our journey ended at my hotel. The plan was to meet
mud lying about. This created the next morning to ferry over to Siquijor Island.
traffic bottlenecks. Once out of The weather was cloudy and overcast in the morning. Greg rented some
the city, the main highway bikes on Siquijor so we didn’t have to take ours on the ferry. The Port of
south was decently paved and Dumaguete was a quick taxi ride from the hotel and once there, we were
informed the Coast Guard
grounded all ferries due to a
showed little effects from the typhoon in the north. There
rain. Traffic was light and I was were only two ferries running to
treated to a great view of the Siquijor Island each day so we
Bohol Sea to the left and some were hoping the afternoon ferry
tropical mountain peaks to the would go as scheduled. Then we
right as we rode through small did what most Filipinos do
towns and villages. The sky when they had time to kill...we
looked threatening, but rain had ate and drank. Dumaguete has a
been minimal. It was hard to seaside boulevard near the port
concentrate on the road with so with quite a few places to eat.
much scenery. Greg and I killed a couple of
hours at a Mexican restaurant, ascend up some hills which pro-

drinking cold beer and checking vided fantastic vistas. The XRM
out the parade of traffic and peo- performed admirably and had
ple before our patio table. The enough power to take the hills,
Coast Guard cleared the after- as long as you remember the
noon ferry for departure but by reverse gear pattern and didn’t
the time we got to Siquijor and do anything stupid like shift to
4th gear when you wanted to
downshift to 2nd gear.
The next destination was
checked into our hotel, we Bandilaan Nature Park. The higher up we got, the worse the roads were but
would not have time to do any they were still two track jungle dirt roads that didn’t have a lot of rocks or
riding that day. mud. Greg located the trail that lead to the island’s highest point where there
Siquijor is a small island off was a small observation tower at the top. The trail was quite slick and it
the coast of Dumaguete. A fast took some huffing and puffing to get to the top. The view was disappoint-
ferry takes about 45 minutes to ing because the sky was over-
get there. Siquijor Island has a cast and visibility wasn’t that
reputation among the Filipinos good. We spent several more
as being a placed filled with miles driving the mountain jun-
witches and shamans. It is gle road and eventually
called the Isle of Fire due to fireflies giving the island a mysterious glow in descended onto a plain filled
the fading light. It has some fantastic beach resorts and traffic was minimal. with rice paddies. Water buffalo
Our hotel was the Coco Grove Beach Resort and its seaside-wooded facili-
ties were absolutely beautiful. Due to the late start, Greg and I spent the bal-
ance of the day at one of the ocean side bars regaling each other with sto-
ries of motorcycles and international travel.
The next day we started out early to explore the island. I was now riding
a 125cc XRM. It was a pleasure riding on the island with its minimal traf- were tethered by the side of the road
fic and good roads. Our first stop was the town of Lazi, at a Catholic church and the rope had enough slack to let
that was built by the Spaniards some 300 years ago. The next stop was them wander into traffic. Looking at
Cambugahay waterfalls for a refreshing swim in a nice lagoon of clear blue the size of those buffalo, I think the
water. Then we rode through some winding jungle roads and began to bike and I would get the worse end
of any collision! It began to rain but
I had on quick drying clothes and
waterproof boots, so I skipped the
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rain gear. The cool rain would of island villages. We took

be refreshing in the tropical paved roads winding through
humidity (though the Filipinos groves of coconut trees and
were commenting on how hard packed roads that ran
“cold” it was!) It was getting along the coast line and ended
dark so the day ended with us at hidden picnic grounds.
taking the long way back to the Every turn contained extraor-
hotel and getting some more dinary tropical sights. The day
views of regular village life on went by quickly and before
the island. That evening we long we had to return our bikes
checked out a local band play- and catch the ferry back in
ing at a nearby bar and had a Dumaguete. I turned in early
fun evening. The Filipinos know looking forwarded to more great

how to party and have a good riding in the Philippines.
time! The next day the coast had
Our last day on Siquijor blue sky but the mountains had
brought sunny and pleasant dark, menacing looking thunder-
weather. We started early to ride heads. Guess which direction we
as much as possible before the were heading? The plan was to
4pm ferry. Greg suggested we ride to a place in the mountains
explore some unknown roads to called Twin Lakes. The only
see what they were like. He said way there was a 8.5 mile road
characterized by Greg as being
a few may be “a bit challenging” “a little bit difficult” with a few

which meant they were filled “rough patches here and there”
with bone jarring rocks and which meant we would be ham-
loose gravel. We headed to the mered by rocks and ruts. We
island interior and began to rode out of Dumaguete and fol-
climb some mountains. An XRM lowed the coastline north. After
will never be challenging any a few miles we came to the Twin
Lakes road and there was a
squad of Army soldiers sta-
tioned at the entrance. Greg
located the commander and
speed records, but you can tack- asked if we would be permitted
S
le the rugged uphill climbs at a to go up to the lakes. We were concerned about any political groups look-
steady and determined pace. It ing for a couple of Western hostages to hold for ransom. The soldiers
was nice not worrying with a assured us the road was safe and we could head up if we wanted.
clutch or stalling the bike when Initially, the road up the mountain was paved and smooth. On the ascent
you are concentrating on not we stopped for picturesque vistas of the mountainous valleys and the Bohol
falling over. We took whatever Sea. The mountains in the background were very steep and green with peaks
road looked interesting. We rode
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covered in clouds. The closer we got to the park, the rougher the road was. levels were so high, all the trails were submerged which scuttled our hiking
It would alternate between patches of smooth pavement, hard pack dirt road, plan. An impromptu planning session resulted in deciding to head back
rock strewn trails, and some really thick mud. The recent rains caused land- towards Dumaguete. Greg suggested that we do some exploring. He had a
slides that deposited a thick layer of sticky mud in places. We passed some map and there were a couple of roads he wanted to take to see if there was
workers who had the job of repairing the road and they did it the old fash- anything interesting on them. I was up for it. It was a good way to see things
ioned way, with a sturdy back and a shovel. No heavy equipment was avail- most tourists don’t see.
able out in the provinces. After a bone jarring and messy ride we arrived at Once on the coastal highway, we pulled over for some gas. Greg said
the lakes. I was thankful it wasn’t raining because it would have been one there was a side road ahead that he was never on and that it might be “a bit
dangerous and slippery mess going up or down that road. The lakes’ water challenging,” which meant I was in for some heavy duty off-roading. For
several miles it was a nice cruise through the
Philippine countryside, encountering little traffic and
the occasional village. The further we drove, the
rougher the roads. We stopped on a curve and Greg
indicated the direction we wanted to take was a muddy
goat path running through some farmer’s yard. A local
resident confirmed the “road” would lead us to
Dumaguete, but no one ever uses a motorbike on it. In
hindsight I knew why. It was a sloppy, muddy and nar-

row trail with big hidden rocks that could stop your
front wheel and send you flying over the handlebars.
We spent over two hours slowly making our way down
the trail. Going fast down such a mess was asking for
a trip to the hospital. We were in remote country as we
didn’t pass any huts for quite some time. On a rest
stop, Greg made the comment that “if we had a
mechanical out here, we would be in a bit of a spot.” I
was thinking more like we would be royally screwed.
A few places I had to get off and push my bike through
a maze of muddy rocks. We passed a field of grazing
cows and even they looked at us like we were crazy.
It took a while to go down the path but the road got
easier and we were heading back to civilization. We
pulled over to get our bearing on the map and it
appeared Dumaguete was a short ride away. Before
long I would be back at the hotel having a beer. But
once again, things don’t always go as planned in the
Philippines. We rode a few miles, turned to cross a
river and we ran into a problem. The bridge spanning
the river was missing a huge section. We guided our
bikes to the edge of the bridge to assess the situation. There were quite a few locals
milling about, the bridge wipeout was probably the most interesting thing that hap-
pened in a while. One of them said the recent rains caused the bridge to give way. The
bridge was at least 40 feet above a rocky river bed with a wide section of hard flowing
rapids. There was no way to walk the bikes across the river. Some wood scaffolding
was set up to support two narrow boards that connected each side. This makeshift repair
was used to walk from side to side.
The locals said the only options to Dumaguete were back up the goat path or to walk
our bikes across the makeshift bridge. Neither option looked too appealing. It was get-
ting close to evening and Greg said we definitely did not want to be caught out in the
countryside when it was dark. There were recent reports of people being robbed on
back roads at night. Going back up the goat path would involve riding in the dark on
the muddy, sloppy, rock filled trail. Walking our bikes across the boards would be a lot
quicker and we would be back in Dumaguete in no time. It was not risk-free as a tum-
ble off the side would guarantee a trip to the hospital or possibly the morgue. We ended
up paying a couple dollars to two experienced men to walk the bikes across. Soon we
were cruising down a nice paved
highway to Dumaguete. The day
ended with a drive through rush hour
in Dumaguete. It was a smoky ride,
as many residents had fires burning to keep mosquitoes down. Overall, it was a very satisfying but tiring day.
I was amazed at how physical off road riding is. I slept well that night.
The last day of riding brought sun-
shine, heat and humidity. We were
riding to the Filipino-American-
Japanese Amity Shrine, then ending
the day with a ride to PNOC, an area
near a geothermal power station
operated by the Philippine National
Oil Company, hence the PNOC
moniker. Once outside the busy
streets of Dumaguete, we were on nice paved roads leading to some impressive look-
ing mountain peaks and the Japanese shrine. During World War II, in order to monitor
ship movements, the Japanese occupied a strategic mountain point that gave them a
sweeping view of the sea of Bohol. Greg said to expect some “rough patches” on the
way up to the monument. If he thought they were rough, I knew a spleen-bruising ride
was ahead. Initially, it was a peaceful and smooth ride through some jungle but it soon
turned into a very rocky trail. The roads don’t look that rough in photos but we were on
scooters with a bit of a beefed up suspension. The road would have been no problem
for a dirt bike with 12 inches of ground clearance and 18 inches of travel on the front
forks. An XRM doesn’t have that and you tend to feel every bump. We began the climb
to the Shrine and it became an effort in trying to find a passable line through the loose
rocks while still trying to stay up straight. A few times I was nearly bounced off my bike. Validating
what Greg stated earlier, these crappy roads did lead to some impressive scenes. From the Shrine were
great panoramic views of the steep mountain peaks, green valleys and the expansive blue waters of the
Bohol Sea. We then saddled up and headed down the mountain to make our way to PNOC for a swim.
After several miles of jungle road riding, we
came to an exposed ridge that had steam shooting
out. It looked like riding through hell, in fact it
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was hot enough to be hell! We pulled over to examine the crosscut. enjoyed taking in the last views
The area had the unmistakable odor of sulfur, which is always pres- of the impressive mountain
ent around naturally occurring geothermal activity. There was a small peaks and the dirt roads winding
stream of boiling water running alongside the road and a quick finger through the jungle. Before long
stuck in it verified that it was indeed hot water. Hanging out by a we were in Dumaguete and I
steaming mass of dirt that seeped boiling hot water in the hot tropical turned my bike in and that was
sun gets old quickly. After snapping a few pictures, we were off in the end of my riding adventure.
search of the waterfalls for that refreshing swim. As far as the Philippines
experience, all I can say is if you
have a chance to go there, take
it. If you can do some riding
there you will love it. The
Philippines can be as off road as
you want it to be. The XRM is a
fine machine, but it isn’t a full-fledged dirt bike. Don’t write it off as a toy
scooter, you can still have a lot of fun on it and it will take you where you
want to go. If you prefer paved roads, there are plenty of them too, though
the natural scenery may not be as impressive as the off road sites. There is
a lot to see in the Philippines. The scenery is fantastic, the beaches are like
paradise, the food is good, the beer is cold, the prices are favorable, and the
people are very friendly and polite. The Philippines can be dangerous,
almost every business in
the city had armed guards.
But I always felt comfort-
able in Dumaguete and
never felt I was in any dan-
ger but it is always good to
have what Greg called
We arrived at the waterfalls, but once again our plans were altered as the “situational awareness.”
recent rains wreaked havoc there as well. The rain forced a lot of rocks and No matter what country
mud to slide down the falls into the pool at the bottom. There was no swim- you are in. Happy riding.
ming that day or any day in the near future. So we saddled up and hit the
road. It was getting late in the day, so we took a leisurely-paced ride on
some back roads to Dumaguete. I relished my last miles of riding in the
Philippines. Passing through small villages and groves of coconut trees, I

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u re AUGUST 2010

Americade 2010 • Adventures of Madeleine • Dog Days of Summer

WE’RE OUTTA HERE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

BIG CITY GETAWAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil ~ Publishers

BACKROADS • POB 317, Branchville NJ 07826

TEST RIDES EVERY DAY

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RIDING LIKE A VULCAN

INDUSTRY INFOBITES NEWS FROM THE INSIDE

Due to extenuating circumstances the

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(Contnued from Page 16)

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ied brands displayed historically therein.

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The entire facility is breathtaking! Motorcycles line racks from floor to

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THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD Adrian Blake

COMPASS EXPEDITIONS TO USHUAIA

If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to ride

Cuernos and the emerald lake beneath them.

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