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I certify that this thesis does not, to the best of my knowledge and belief:
(ii) Contain any material previously published or written by another person except
where due reference is made in the text; or
Signed……………………………………..
Date…………………………………
Acknowledgement
Last but not at the least I would like to thank my parents for their constant
encouragement and full support.
Ojas D. Mogrey
i
Abstract
There is still further scope in this research process with specific set of
objectives which may lead to a concrete conclusion.
ii
Contents
iii
Chapter five – The Consumer
Consumer market segmentation (37)
Male Buying Behaviour (42)
Loyalty Drivers (44)
Newsroom (46)
Conclusion (63)
References (66)
Bibliography (70)
Appendices A (73)
Appendices B (76)
Appendices C (79)
Appendices D (81)
iv
List of figures & Images
Figures
Chapter two
Chapter three
Chapter six
Chapter seven
v
Images
Chapter four
List of Tables
Chapter Six
vi
Chapter One
Introduction
Chapter one - Introduction
Background
-2-
Chapter one - Introduction
However, still knitwear has been very important product for people &
for the retailers.
This report focuses on one of the most important yet neglected aspect
(in terms of academic research) of UK’s clothing sector i.e. Men’s
knitwear. The total menswear market has reached £9,135 million in
terms of spending in the year 2008. Based on UK Apparel and Textile
Confederation data (2006) and Key Note (2008) report, total market
for men’s knitwear could be around £116 million in 2008 as per the
trend of a 20% fall in production every year since 2006. Within the
scope of this dissertation, the focus will be to concentrate and
understand UK’s knitwear industry from the perspective of retailers as
well as the manufactures. It finally aims to understand the growth or
decline of an industry as a whole with the support with theoretical
information and collection of factual primary data.
-3-
Chapter one - Introduction
Since the past decade the UK clothing sector has always remained
under tremendous pressure from importers of low cost clothing from
developing countries. The total UK clothing sector will continue to
expand but the sales of UK producer’s are forecasted to continue
falling because the growing demands are met by low cost importers
(Key Note, 2007).
Beneficiaries
-4-
Chapter one - Introduction
-5-
Chapter Two
Research Methodology
-6-
Chapter two – Research Methodology
The strategy formulation began with the careful reading around the
topic. Keeping in mind the overall aim, a critical literature review had
been carried out from various sources like Journals, Magazines, Books,
Research papers etc. This had given a much clearer picture of the whole
market segment. Based on this overview of the market, research was
subdivided into 4 focussed objectives.
Knitwear
Supply chain / Consumer
Overseas Supply
market Behaviour
analysis in
UK
There are other research questions attached to this which have already
been mentioned in the previous chapter. Secondary research was
focused on these objectives. It was very important to get the
data/feedback from the market and people who are actually working in
the knitwear industry. Qualitative primary research techniques were
applied to gain first hand information.
-7-
Chapter two – Research Methodology
Some of the key issues like general product choice in different age
brackets, price v/s quality factor, and choice of retailer by particular
group of men on the high street are addressed by a non-participant
observation technique. As Judith Bell (2005:184) pointed out,
observation can reveal characteristics of certain group of people.
There were two technical visits arranged with medium level (those with
less than 20 flat bed knitting machines or 5 circular machines)
manufacturers including one Leicester based apparel manufacturer in
order to understand the existence of traditional or modern production
practices in UK‟s knitting industry.
-8-
Chapter two – Research Methodology
Literature review
The consumer
-9-
Chapter two – Research Methodology
Supply chain
- 10 -
Chapter two – Research Methodology
Interviews
Justification
Strategy
- 11 -
Chapter two – Research Methodology
Manufacturer/Suppliers of knitwear
in the UK
Value-Middle Upmarket
market level level
Value–Middle Upmarket
market level Level
- 12 -
Chapter two – Research Methodology
Observational Research
Justification
During this research, almost all the high street fashion multiples were
visited in different parts of the UK at different intervals. Along with this,
stores owned by individual knitwear brands were also covered under
this qualitative research method. The basic aim to adopt this approach
was to understand how the UK male consumer behaves when he shops
in the high street fashion multiples as well as for an individual knitwear
brand. Non-participant technique was adopted to catch natural
reaction/behaviour of consumer. This was helpful to support secondary
research findings on clothing purchased by men at different retail
stores. Further, it was also possible to compare men‟s knitwear
collection at high street fashion multiple v/s independent knitwear
brands in terms of product, quality, price and source of supply. Source
of supply could be found out from wash care label or the size label
where it is mandatory to mention country of manufacture. Aspects like
judging the product quality by touching fabric, influencing factors for
men to buy particular clothing product and choice of stores as per their
age could be studied in a better manner by doing observation.
Strategy
- 13 -
Chapter two – Research Methodology
Technical Visits
There were two technical visits made to the knitwear production units
based in Leicester. The purpose of these visits was to understand and
practically see how the garments are being manufactured in the UK
factories. This was also to understand how the production units are
geared up on technological front and avoids or supports labour intensive
practices. Having worked closely with the clothing factories in India, it
was possible to make comparison of production processes between
companies of similar scale and nature.
The first factory which visited in Leicester was Esprio Knitting Co.
- 14 -
Chapter two – Research Methodology
The year long journey of primary research so far was very interesting
and well-informed but at the same time had to tackle few hurdles as
well. Following are some of the best examples of it with the detailed
explanation.
- 15 -
Chapter Three
Knitwear market
analysis in UK
- 16 -
Chapter three – Knitwear Market Analysis in UK
The menswear market includes all garments made for men and boys. It
includes both outer and under garments, but excludes infants wear,
which is defined as clothing for children under two years of age (Verdict
research, 2008).
9000
8712
8800
8533
Value 8600 8399
8400
8200
8000
2004 2005 2006 2007 e2008
Year
- 17 -
Chapter three – Knitwear Market Analysis in UK
attract more number of people to visit their stores. Retailers like Gap;
Next & H&M displays „how‟ to wear a garment on mannequins. Some
retailers are trying to stretch their product prices upwards to
differentiate themselves from middle & value market players.
Positioning of
Menswear market
in the UK
- 18 -
Chapter three – Knitwear Market Analysis in UK
The clothing production industry has changed in the UK, with a global
sourcing from low wage countries reducing domestic cost of production
(Key note, 2009).
o Knitwear
o Shirts
o Tailored outerwear
o Hosiery
o Underwear
2500
2000
1500 Knitwear
Value Outerwear
1000 Workwear
Hosiery
500
Underwear
0
2003 2004 2005 2006 e2007
Year
- 19 -
Chapter three – Knitwear Market Analysis in UK
- 20 -
Chapter three – Knitwear Market Analysis in UK
„Knitwear‟ refers to any fabric which knitted (as opposed to woven) with
particular thickness of the yarn and being converted into garment
(McDonnell, S. 2008).
Market in brief
As per the latest data available, the total (including men‟s & women‟s)
UK market for knitwear accounted for £290 million at the end of year
2007. According to National Statistics, the women‟s clothing share in
the market by market value is more than 52.1%. Considering this fact,
the men‟s knitwear market could be around £145 million at the end of
year 2007. This is further decline as compared to year 2006 where the
UK market accounted for £181 million (Key Note, 2009).
- 21 -
Chapter three – Knitwear Market Analysis in UK
UK Retail
Market for
Men‟s Knitwear
Apart from above mentioned knitwear brands, there are many domestic
brands that were or still having their own production set-up here in the
UK. There is a good quality of knitwear also being produced in the
borders of Scotland.
- 22 -
Chapter three – Knitwear Market Analysis in UK
- 23 -
Chapter three – Knitwear Market Analysis in UK
Newsroom
- 24 -
Chapter Four
Technology and
Manufacturing
- 25 -
Chapter four – Technology and Manufacturing
There has been a great change in knitting technology over the years all
over the world including UK. Improvement in communication along with
usage of computers has enabled to exchange the knowledge in
technology. United Kingdom had begun to witness it’s improvement in
technology after the war years (1914-1918). The 50’s & 60’s were very
much about technological developments in knitting (Power, J. 2007).
In the 1970’s, UK saw the introduction of computer-aided design (CAD)
and computer-aided manufacturing (CAM). This made easier for
manufacturers just to create product design on computer and transfer it
on to machines. During the 1990’s and later, majority of the production
had moved outside UK and low cost producing countries gained a
momentum of entering into mass market production resulting further
advancement of technology in those countries. It would be interesting
to understand the latest developments in knitting technology impacting
on to the UK clothing sector men’s knitwear.
Circular knitting
The search for eliminating the side crease on the tubular knitted fabric
started almost ten years ago. There was an introduction of synthetic
man-made yarns into the large diameter circular knitting machine
sector eventually brought about the development of open width knitting
machines.
The world leaders in circular knitting machines Mayer & Cie (Germany),
have introduced high speed open-width knitting machine. The main
feature of this machine is their frame capable of speeds of 40 rpm
(revolutions per minute) in continues operation in comparison with the
conventional speed of 32 rpm of other existing branded machines. This
innovation allows increasing almost 25% of the production. Further, it
gives a fabric take-down in an open width form which avoids crease
marks in tubular way of take-down of the knitted fabric (Anon, 2009).
- 26 -
Chapter four – Technology and Manufacturing
Flat knitting
Seamless technology
- 27 -
Chapter four – Technology and Manufacturing
- 28 -
Chapter four – Technology and Manufacturing
- 29 -
Chapter four – Technology and Manufacturing
There are such several fabric finishes which have new functional
characteristics as well as aesthetic. This has been introduced by many
big companies like DuPont, Nano-Tex etc.
- 30 -
Chapter four – Technology and Manufacturing
STAGE 1
Choosing the
Fibre
e.g. Wool/
Cotton
STAGE 7 STAGE 2
Packing & Fibre processing
Delivery
KNITWEAR
PRODUCTION
STAGE 6
PROCESS STAGE 3
Sewing & Spinning of Yarn
garment
finishing
STAGE 5 STAGE 4
Dyeing & fabric Knitting of fabric
finishing
- 31 -
Chapter four – Technology and Manufacturing
Before any fibre goes into spinning for the yarn, it goes through this
process. At this stage, fibre cleaning takes place. It also prepares to
ensure highest quality and consistency of the fibres before turning it
into the yarn. Only ‘acceptable quality level’ (AQL) fibres are being
separated by combing from the entire bale.
After fibre processing, the clean and good quality fibres are then spun
into yarn. It is possible to give range of blends to the yarn to change
the value or quality. Generally there are two types of techniques being
used, woollen and worsted. At every sub-stage yarn quality is being
checked before it goes on to the next process which is called as
knitting.
STAGE 4 – Knitting
Grey or dyed yarn is being used from the previous process and fed into
the knitting machines. The conventional way of processing is producing
front and back body panels and sleeves separately which are then sewn
together to produce a whole garment. Recently, some companies in UK
(as mentioned before in this report) have adopted seamless technology
which produces the whole garment in one piece, three dimensionally on
the knitting machine itself.
- 32 -
Chapter four – Technology and Manufacturing
Grey fabric is taken from the previous department and dyed into the
dyeing vessels according to the requirement of shades. Normally, there
are different sizes of vessels available to adjust the shade lot. For
example, for making sample set of garments there is no need to dye
the fabric in bigger vessels, small dyeing vessels of 5kg or 10 kg are
also kept to meet that amount of requirement. Later, finishing is done
to the fabric to give required hand-feel, performance characteristics. It
is also very crucial process as end customer can feel it directly and
make his buying decision.
Processed knitted fabric gets enter into this stage and panels are being
sewn together as per the size specification. Every company has
different system of assembling a product. For example, there is single-
hand system where one operator is responsible for sewing an entire
garment but on the other hand there is progressive bungle system one
operator is responsible for either one or two construction steps on each
garment in the bundle (e.g. couple of dozen garments). After this step,
required accessories like wash care label, swing tickets, hang tags etc.
are being attached to the garment. Following step is ironing of the
garments.
Those companies which do not have their own spinning, knitting and
dyeing units, together along with CMT (cut, make & trim) activity are
considered as non vertical integrated units. Most of the production
companies in UK imports yarn or fabric from overseas to produce
garments. Small scale producers procure it locally through importing
agents or domestic stock suppliers.
- 33 -
Chapter four – Technology and Manufacturing
Once the goods are packed and get delivered into the stores, then
actually it starts the real test of the product in terms of saleability. The
end consumer plays a crucial role in the market place for success or
failure of the product. Some products do fail to generate volume sales
into the market in spite of having used latest technology or branding.
Therefore, the next obvious objective comes as to understand ‘The
Consumer’ in the market. In this dissertation, the focus is given only on
male consumers and their clothing shopping behaviour.
- 34 -
Chapter four – Technology and Manufacturing
Newsroom
- 35 -
Chapter Five
The Consumer
- 36 -
Chapter five – The Consumer
Importance
- 37 -
Chapter five – The Consumer
65 +
3775
45-64
6621
Age 35-44
4076
25-34
3508
16-24
3356
The second largest age bracket is men between 35-44 years. Men in
this age bracket are generally price conscious but shopping
experience along with family is the key factor which can be observed
quite often (WGSN, 200).
- 38 -
Chapter five – The Consumer
The least populated age bracket is 16-25 years old men. This is the
most favourable consumers for retailers in the UK as „price‟
importance is very low for this group. Visual impact of the store and
fast fashion products attracts them the most (WGSN, 2008).
18-21 280.1
22-29 416.4
30-39 565.7
Age
40-49 598
50-59 563.7
60+ 462.1
- 39 -
Chapter five – The Consumer
The above data (Figure 10) clearly indicates that men between the
age brackets of 40 to 49 are the highest per week earners in the UK.
Majority of the premium men‟s knitwear brands in UK have this age
bracket as their target audience as they seem to afford exclusive
knitwear range, e.g. pure cashmere jumper. This finding on the
market is also backed by the primary research (Interview) activity
with the retailers and manufacturers. Alan Paine knitwear Ltd. of
surrey is a premium men‟s knitwear brand in the UK. ‘We have a
main target age bracket of men in between 45-65 years old (Beattie,
C. 2009)’. This interviewer was also emphasising on targeting this
age bracket for men‟s knitwear products because of the fact of their
earning potential. Peter Gribby Ltd. is a Nottingham based budget
level knitwear brand in the UK. The meeting was arranged with the
managing director of the company to get their and an overall
feedback about the current market in the UK. The interviewer had
expressed that, ‘our both the labels are targeted towards 45+ age
bracket (Gribby, D. 2009). Medium level manufacturer like Crystal
Knitwear from Mansfield – Nottingham also manages to produce
classic knitwear for men above 40 years old.
- 40 -
Chapter five – The Consumer
North east
464.1
North west
489.3
Yorkshire
485.3
East midlands
488.7
West midlands
488.7
East
513.8
Region
London
676.7
South east
555.8
South west
488.4
Wales
464.9
Scotland
504.6
Northern Ireland
438.8
- 41 -
Chapter five – The Consumer
There are many other factors which are important as men in their
buying decision. 1) Successful man who has “made it” in the big
working world and would like to show the status symbol to prove it.
2) Quiet self reliant man who has succeeded where others have
failed in performing particular task. 3) Something which endorses
with the “macho man” look (Otnes and McGrath, 2001).
- 42 -
Chapter five – The Consumer
- 43 -
Chapter five – The Consumer
Loyalty drivers
- 44 -
Chapter five – The Consumer
they visit stores. Layout of the stores also plays an important role in
attracting consumers. It provides comfort, space and better
movement area for the consumers. For example, changing rooms in
the store should be located in quieter areas so that consumers using
those do not feel that they are changing on a motorway. The last but
not the least driver is store facilities. Good facilities like
return/exchange of goods, catering to disables and having good
cafeteria or restaurant brings back the consumer to shop once again
(Key note, 2008).
Key findings
- 45 -
Chapter five – The Consumer
Newsroom
- 46 -
Chapter five – The Consumer
suits, Gucci, Lanvin and Bottega Veneta all had cobalt blue in
their spring/summer menswear shows, and even Giorgio
Armani (who notoriously lives in navy T-shirts and perpetuates
beige suits) has branched out into purples and pinks. What can
it all mean? “There is definitely a feeling that colour is more
acceptable, and attitudes are beginning to change; it‟s no
longer confined to the barbecue Hawaiian shirt, thank
goodness, instead it can be worn every day, at work and at the
weekend,” says Nick Thomas, menswear designer at classic UK
label John Smedley. “Colour can be quite medicinal, I think.
Even if the weather is dark and gloomy, wearing colour rather
than blending in with the clouds is much better – escapism
even. A great colour can help lift your mood” (Pool, H. 2009)
- 47 -
Chapter Six
- 48 -
Chapter six – Retailer and Supplier Brands
Comparison overview
- 49 -
Chapter six – Retailer and Supplier Brands
- 50 -
Chapter six – Retailer and Supplier Brands
- 51 -
Chapter six – Retailer and Supplier Brands
There is a clear indication that price for the same type of product
from fashion multiple is lesser as compared to independent retailers
in the UK‟s men‟s knitwear market. There is a price difference of
£30-£40 or more between these two types of retailers. Certainly with
the demand for more premium products growing, albeit still at good
prices, more and more retailers would like to invest in developing
this premium knitwear ranges.
- 52 -
Chapter six – Retailer and Supplier Brands
Sourcing cost
Overseas Stagnant
expansion market
Issues for
Fashion
Multiples
and
Location Declining
strategy Independent densities
Demographic
trends Advertising
shift
- 53 -
Chapter six – Retailer and Supplier Brands
- 54 -
Chapter six – Retailer and Supplier Brands
specific (high or low) quality garments and also maintains the standard
product ranges which is appropriate for the consumers of targeted age
bracket (Verdict research, 2008).
It is clear from the above chart that most of the retailers are targeting
twenty five and above men for knitwear products. It might be different
types of consumers shopping at different stores but their target
audience is inclined more towards mature men.
- 55 -
Chapter six – Retailer and Supplier Brands
cities. Generally all high street fashion multiples has located around the
city centre. Very few have out-of-town presence. On the other side,
most of the independents including premium brands like Pringle and
Harley are located in outside the town or in the less frenetic area.
Researchers also feel that there is going to be greater development of
such independent stores in the rich residential areas as consumers are
trying to avoid trips to big shopping malls where usually there is a
problem of car parking and long queues at the till. There is also an
emerging opportunity for upmarket knitwear brands to open and
establish good sales volumes at the Heathrow airport terminal 5 where
there is a big shopping arcade for passengers (Verdict research, 2008).
Key findings
Fashion multiples are having the capacity to source garments from low
cost countries at cheaper rate as compared to the independents. This
cheap sourcing makes possible for them to offer low price products with
the same quality to consumers as compared to the independents.
Fashion multiples and independents are implementing new and
improved methods to maintain the consumer loyalty though future of
independent knitwear brands does not look promising in terms of
growth into the market share.
- 56 -
Chapter six – Retailer and Supplier Brands
Newsroom
- 57 -
Chapter Seven
Supply Chain in
Knitwear Industry
- 58 -
Chapter seven – Supply Chain
- 59 -
Chapter seven – Supply Chain
1) Marketing
Research 2) Design with Pre costing
cost
estimation
3) Present
CAD print-
Customers, Technical out to team
Merchandisers designers
,Designers, specify and
Sales dev make samples
Concepts Reject Accept
Discard/remake 4) Sample
making Check sizing
Focus on end measurement
consumer’s
need
o Yarn Designer
order and sales Accept
o Knitting reps
o Laundry present
o Cut and samples
sew Becomes
o Assembly an order
line
Reject
Final Production
approval costing
5) Production
line
Packaging and
Figure 13: Process of overseas supply chain shipping to
Source: Clothing and Textile Research Journal the port of
destination
- 60 -
Chapter seven – Supply Chain
Following were the top knit apparel exporting countries of the world in
the year 2005-2006. This was the latest comparative data available of
major clothing supplying countries especially for knitwear products.
Top Knit Apparel Exporting Countries of the World in the year 2005 - 06
Values exported Values exported Annual growth in Share in World
Exporters
in 2004 (US$ bn) in 2005 (US$ bn) 2004 - 05 (%) exports (%)
World 117.36 124.79 6.33 100.00
China 25.80 30.87 19.65 24.74
Hong Kong 12.20 13.32 9.18 10.67
Italy 6.83 6.71 -1.76 5.38
Turkey 6.26 6.35 1.44 5.09
Germany 4.44 4.44 0.00 3.56
Bangladesh 2.39 3.48 45.61 2.79
India 2.47 3.20 29.55 2.56
France 3.03 3.19 5.28 2.56
Belgium 2.39 2.69 12.55 2.16
USA 2.70 2.58 -4.44 2.07
Top 10 Total 68.51 76.83 12.14 61.57
Source: Apparel Export Promotion Council, India
Table 7: Top knit apparel exporting countries in the world
- 61 -
Chapter seven – Supply Chain
Following were the top knit apparel importing countries of the world in
the year 2005-2006.
Top Knit Apparel Importing Countries of the World in the year 2005 - 06
Values imported Values imported Annual growth in Share in World
Importers
in 2004 (US$ bn) in 2005 (US$ bn) 2004 - 05 (%) Imports (%)
World 120.14 124.22 3.40 100.00
USA 33.04 33.29 0.76 26.80
Germany 10.68 10.40 -2.62 8.37
Japan 9.19 9.79 6.53 7.88
UK 8.83 9.26 4.87 7.45
Hong Kong 8.81 9.24 4.88 7.44
France 7.11 7.59 6.75 6.11
Italy 4.79 5.15 7.52 4.15
Belgium 2.99 3.26 9.03 2.62
Spain 3.58 2.76 -22.91 2.22
Netherlands 2.69 2.50 -7.06 2.01
Top 10 Total 91.71 93.24 1.67 75.06
Source: Apparel Export Promotion Council, India
Table 8: Top knit apparel importing countries in the world
As we can observe from the above mentioned tables China was leading
the chart in exporting highest volume of knitwear products to the entire
world. As per the latest data mentioned in the first paragraph of this
chapter, China still leads the position of top exporting nation to the UK
for knitwear. On the other hand USA tops the chart of importing the
highest volume of knitwear products in the world followed by Germany.
United Kingdom was the fourth largest knitwear importer in the world
with total share of 7.45% (AEPC, 2007).
- 62 -
Conclusions
Conclusion
- 63 -
Conclusions
Recommendations
- 64 -
Conclusions
their strategies. And also further research can be carried out to find
out reasons for companies who withdraw their existence from the
market.
- 65 -
References
References
- 66 -
References
Job Cut, 2009. Knitwear firm confirms fresh cuts. BBC News, Available
at: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/south_of_scotland/7948214.stm (last
updated: 17 March 2009).
Key Note, 2008. ‘Clothing and Footwear Industry’ Key Note Ltd. p.77-
93
Key Note, 2009. ‘Top Markets: Clothing, Personal Goods & Home
Goods’. Key Note Ltd. p.7-16
Key Note, 2008. ‘Men & Women’s buying habits’ Key Note Ltd. p.43-53
Knox and Denison, 2000. ‘Store loyalty: it’s impact on retail revenue’.
Journal of retailing and consumer services, p.-1-13
- 67 -
References
http://www.printwearandpromotion.co.uk/news/fullstory.php/aid/1368/Garment_Co
nstruction_-_Knitwear:_it_92s_big_business.html (accessed 17 April 2009).
Pool, H. 2009. Today’s a loud day. Guardian News and Media Limited,
Available at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2009/jun/08/dandies-
fashion-men-bright-colours (accessed on 13 June 2009).
Product sales and trade, 2007. Machinery for Textile, Apparel and
Leather production PRODCOM, Available at:
http://www.statistics.gov.uk/StatBase/Product.asp?vlnk=7162&Pos=1&ColRank=1&
Rank=272 (accessed on 29 May 2009)
- 68 -
References
- 69 -
Bibliography
Bibliography
Books
Karaminas and Mcneil, 2009. The Men’s Fashion Reader. Oxford: Berg
Reilly and Cosbey, 2008. Men’s fashion reader. New York: Fairchild
Articles
- 70 -
Bibliography
Journals
Draper’s record
Fashion Business International
Knitting International
- 71 -
Bibliography
Web sites
www.deloitte.com
www.fabriclink.com
www.emaraldinsight.com
www.guardian.co.uk
www.just-style.com
www.knittinginternational.com
www.knittingtogether.com
www.mayercie.com
www.mintel.com
www.sciencedirect.com
www.telegraph.co.uk
www.wgsn-edu.com
- 72 -
Appendices
Appendix - A
Web – www.ap-outlet.co.uk
Company Introduction –
“Alan Paine” as a brand founded 100 years ago. It has a solid reputation
as a premium knitwear brand in the UK. The Paine family sold their
business in the year 1990 but Mr.James Hilton is the proud owner of
this British company and still continuing with the same brand name.
The purpose of this interview was to understand the viewpoint of the
retail side of the men’s knitwear market. Being with the company for
almost over four decades, it was worth attempting to get insight the
industry from Mr.Colin Beattie.
The Store which I visited had opened in 1993 when the original
company sold out and taken over by Mr.James.
- 73 -
Appendices
The main target age bracket is between 45-65 year old people.
Those youngsters has got the classic taste of knitwear, they do come
and visit the stores. Overall store has a fantastic range of products
to offer for men in different varieties and sizes.
5. Do you have your own designing team? How you create it?
The company has their own team of designers who keeps working
and creating designs throughout the season.
Most of the products are getting sourced from the countries like
China & Bangladesh but still small proportion of its production is
done within the UK.
Lyle & Scott, Smedley’s are the main competitors for them. They
don’t see any threat from these players but certainly they have
covered a large market share because of their advertising strength.
- 74 -
Appendices
10. Do you feel whether brand image attracts men in their buying
decision? Or the quality of the product which speaks?
- 75 -
Appendices
Appendix – B
Web – www.petergribby.co.uk
Company Introduction –
1. How did you get into this profession? What is your professional
background?
The company sells its goods under two brands. One “Peter Gribby”
which comes under mid-market segment & the other one is “Winter
Beck” which comes under value market segment. Besides this,
company also works as a contract supplier for brands like Farah plc,
Toggy and retailers like Next plc, Bhs. However, Mr. Daniel’s own
experience dealing with UK retailers was not very good. Company
- 76 -
Appendices
has also started selling products on the internet where Mr. Daniel is
quite happy in terms of margins. Company’s annual turnover is
between £1-2 million.
The company has nice range of quality products to offer for male
consumers.
Mr. Daniel said that there is no growth since last 4-5 years. The
business is quite static. In fact he mentioned that this year it is 12-
13% down till now.
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9. Are you able to maintain enough margins & sell the product?
As far British 45+ age men is concerned, Mr Daniel feels that the
quality of the product which actually becomes a key driver of brand
loyalty.
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Appendix – C
3. What type gauge you normally use for producing fabrics? Make of
the knitting machine?
They own only one unit in which there are 12 Shima Seiki lower Gauge
knitting machines. They produce fabric on 5, 7, 10 & 12 Gg machines.
Unit operates in only 1 shift per day and 6 days a week.
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70% of their production is only for Men & rest for kids. The unit is able
to produce on an average 30-50 dozen pcs per month.
8. Have you observed any kind of growth in your sales since last 2
years? How much? (%)
Mr. Chris was disappointed with the industry performance and felt that
there is very slow growth for them since last 2 years in this business.
He feels that end of year 2009 should bring better prospects to the
business. Sales should go up 20%.
This company focuses mainly to the niche market rather than volume
business. But he personally feels that demand in the market is
increasing but it becomes difficult for smaller firms to make large
margins in competition with overseas suppliers.
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Appendix – D
This is multi national company & supplier of all kinds of garments to the
world renowned labels & retailers. Their annual sales are over US$ 800
million. It is a Hong Kong based group having their UK headquarters
along with huge warehouse in Ashfield. They do not manufacture
anything in the UK but does all the sourcing for UK retailers. Mr.Paul
has been associated with this company since 5 years.
2. Do you supply & manufacture for any retailers in the UK? If yes,
which one?
This company supply mostly to all major high street retailers in the UK.
They are the exclusive suppliers of Men’s knitwear to Marks & Spencer
and produce all range of products.
Majority production takes place in China but there are many other sub-
suppliers from the countries like Bangladesh, Srilanka.
4. What type gauge you normally use for producing fabrics? Make of
the knitting machine?
For the classic Men’s knitwear, 3, 5, 7 & 12 Gauge machines are used.
Maximum fabric is been knitted on Shima Seiki & Santoni knitting
machines. Though company is engaged in producing all types of fabric &
garments.
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