Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Winter (-) 5 C
o
(-) 20 C
o
Rainfall:15cm(annual average)
Clothing :Cotton & light woollens in summer and heavy woollens including down-
filled wind proof upper garments in winter.
Geographical Introduction
Ladakh is a land abounding in awesome physical features, set in an enormous and
spectacular environment. Bounded by two of the world's mightiest mountain
ranges, the Karakoram in the north and the Great Himalaya in the south, it is
traversed by two other parallel chains, the Ladakh Range and the Zanskar Range.
In geological terms, this is a young land, formed a few million years ago. Its basic
contours, uplifted by tectonic movements, have been modified over the millennia by
the process of erosion due to wind and water, sculpted into the form that we see
today.
Ladakh lies at altitudes ranging from about 9,000 ft (2,750 m) at Kargil to 25,170 ft
(7,672m) at Saser Kangri, in the Karakoram Range. Summer temperatures rarely
exceed 27C in the shade, while in winter they may at times plummet to minus 20C
even in Leh. Surprisingly though, the thin air makes the heat of the sun even more
intense than at lower altitudes. It is said that only in Ladakh can a man sitting in the
sun with his feet in the shade suffer from sunstroke and frostbite at the same time!
Historical Background
For nearly 900 years, from the middle of the 10th century, Ladakh was an
independent kingdom, its ruling dynasties descending from the kings of old Tibet.
The kingdom attained its greatest geographical extent and glory in the early 17th
century under the famous king Singge Namgyal, whose domain extended across
Spiti and western Tibet right up to the Mayum-la, beyond the sacred sites of Mount
Kailash and Lake Mansarovar.
The famous pashmina (better known as cashmere) also came down from the high-
altitude plateaux of eastern Ladakh and western Tibet, through Leh, to Srinagar,
where skilled artisans transformed it into shawls known the world over for their
softness and warmth. Ironically, it was this lucrative trade that finally spelt the doom
of the independent kingdom. It attracted the covetous attention of Gulab Singh,
the ruler of Jammu in the early 19th century, who sent his general Zorawar Singh
to invade Ladakh in 1834 AD.
Like the land itself, the people of Ladakh are generally quite different from those of
the rest of India. The faces and physique of the Ladakhis, and the clothes they
wear, are more akin to those of Tibet and Central Asia than of India. The original
population may have been Dards, an Indo-Aryan race down from the Indus and the
Gilgit area.
The trail from Yarkand crossed five other passes, of which the most feared was the
glacier-encumbered Saser-la, north of Nubra. Travellers from Tibet could take one
of two main routes from the Central part of the country, the Tsang-po valley, they
could pass the holy sites of Kailash Mansarovar and reach Gartok, on a tributary of
the upper Indus, from where they followed the river down to Leh.
Trade with the 'Pashm' -producing areas of western Tibet flowed by a more
northerly route, taking the village of Rudok, a few miles into Tibet, and from there
across to Chushul on the Pangong-tso, up the length of the lake to Tangse, then a
cross the 18,300feet (5,578m) Chang-la to the Indus, and so to Leh.
Baltistan, joined administratively with Ladakh for 100 years, was linked to it either
via the Indus up to its confluence with the Suru-Shingo river, and on up to Kargil: or
by the Chorbat-la pass over the Ladakh range, the trail dropping down to the Indus
40 km below Khalatse, and following the river up to Leh.
The mails, carried in relays by runners stationed every four miles or so, took four or
five days. That was before the wheel as a means of transport was introduced into
Ladakh, which happened only when the Srinagar- Leh motor-road was constructed
as recently as the early 1960s.
RELIGION
Ladakh was the conduit through which Buddhism reached Tibet from India and in
the process it got deeply entrenched in the region from
the very beginning. There are ancient Buddhist rock
engravings all over the region, even in the areas like Dras
and the lower Suru Valley which today are inhabited by
an exclusively Muslim population. The divide between
Muslim and Buddhist Ladakh passes through Mulbekh
(on the Kargil-Leh road) and between the villages of
Parkachik and Rangdum in the Suru Valley, though there
are pockets of Muslim population further east, in Padum
(Zanskar), in Nubra Valley and in and around Leh. The
approach to a Buddhist village is invariably marked by
mani walls which are long, chest-high structures faced
with engraved stones bearing Buddhist mantra, and by
chorten (commemorative cairns)
Many villages are crowned with a Gompa or monastery, which may be anything
from an imposing complex of temples, prayer halls and monks'dwellings, to a tiny
heritage housing a single image and home to a solitary lama.
Fresco of Buddhist Deity
slam too came from the west. A peaceful
penetration of mainly the Shia sect
spearheaded by Islamic missionaries, its
success can be attributed to the early
conversion of the chieftains of Dras, Kargil
and the Suru Valley. In these areas, mani
walls and chorten are replaced by mosques,
small unpretentious buildings, or Imambaras,
which are imposing structures with a quaint
blend of Islamic and Tibetan styles,
surmounted by domes of metal sheet that gleam cheerfully in the sun. There are
also pockets of Sunni Muslims among which the Dards of Drass and the Arghons
of Leh are the largest groups.
Wedding Ceremonies
A visitor to Ladakh rarely has a chance to see a Buddhist wedding performance
according to the old customs and ceremonies. Today too much foreign influence is
likely to have crept in; European clothing is slowly replacing the traditional dress.
The celebration begins in the morning at the house of the bride. The all male party
celebrated with Chang, which, according to custom, one must take in three
consecutive draughts. As a special sign the host improved the ' Chang'by adding
butter. A celebration meal is served in the afternoon, but again only men partook.
The bride remains in her mother' s kitchen, symbolically indicating where her place
is! Clothed in a wedding gown with a silver embroidered cape, decorated with old
family jewellery, the bride is overwhelmed with lucky white ribbons and given gifts
of money by her relatives and friends. While the men sing and the mother laments,
the bride then goes to the family of the bridegroom, where
she is met, in front of the house, by Lamas.
The Celebrations
Now the celebration proper begins. In a long ceremony, in
which the bride must first of all refuse the food which is
offered to her, the bride is led from her father or a friend of
the family, to her husband, with whom she then
symbolically partakes of a meal. She is then shown the
house, with particular emphasis on the kitchen. By sunrise
the ceremony is concluded, but not the celebration, which
is a social occasion for the families with musicians, food
and much, much Chang.
Funeral Ceremonies
Near to the palaces at Stok, Shey and Leh one may notice a large number of
Chortens, the old ' pleasure gardens'of the kings of Ladakh. If one goes into the
side valley, to the north east of Leh, on whose eastern slopes the road to the Nubra
valley begins, one may find a Lare stone where a curious funeral practice was once
conducted. The bodies of the dead were hacked to pieces and ground up with
stones then left to be devoured by vultures. This practice was also followed in Tibet
and is still followed in the Mustang region of Nepal.
Today the site of dismemberment is used for cremations. After a ceremony in the
house of the dead person the corpse is tied up in a covered Sedan chair.
Accompanied by Lamas the procession makes its way into the side valley near
Leh. A few hundred metres northwest of the Chortens the procession halts and the
chair is placed in a walled oven. This is really only a vertical tube with fire hole
underneath. The fire is started with many prayers and during the long ceremony oil
is frequently thrown into the oven until the cremation is complete. The ashes are
scattered into a holy river or in the case of a person of high standing, placed in a
Chorten.
In Kargil and its adjoining regions on the other hand, it is only in the last few years
that women are merging from semi-seclusion and taking jobs other than traditional
ones like farming and house-keeping.
Religious Harmony
Of the secular culture, the most important element is the rich oral literature of
songs and poems for every occasions, as well as local versions of the "Kesar
Saga", the Tibetan national epic. This literature is common to both Buddhists and
Muslims. In fact, the most highly developed versions of the Kesar saga, and some
of the most exuberant and lyrical songs are said to be found in Shakar-Chigtan an
area of the western Kargil district exclusively inhabited by Muslims, unfortunately
not freely open to tourists yet.
Ceremonies.
Ceremonial and public events are accompanied by the characteristic music of
'
Surna'and ' Daman'(Oboe and drum), originally introduced into Ladakh from
Muslim Baltistan, but now played only by Buddhist musicians known as "Mons".
When a child is born the family usually holds a festival for their relatives,
neighbours and friends after the first 15 days, at age one month and after a year.
All are invited to come to the house and are given ' Tsampa' , butter and sugar,
along with tea to eat and drink all day.
A major polo tournament called the "Ladakh Festival Cup" is also held as part of
the festival in which polo teams
from different parts of the region
participate. Visitors to Ladakh
during this period will have the
opportunity of witnessing this
ancient sport of the western
Himalayas being played in its
original, wild style with fewer rules
and frenzied crowd involvement.
Yet another interesting programme
is the staging of a typical Central
Asian trade mart in Leh Bazaar, " ! #
complete with caravans laden with
traders’ goods, while skilled artists dressed in period-costumes play the role of
merchants engaged in trading, bartering and associated activities.
The monastic festivals are annual events of the major monasteries which the local
people eagerly look forward to attending, both for attaining religious merit and as a
means of social entertainment. These are generally held to commemorate the
establishment of a particular monastery, the birth anniversary of its patron saint or
some major events in the history and evolution of Tibetan Buddhism. People turn
out in the thousands to attend these festivals in their colourful best, making every
event a carnival of colours.
The ‘Rimpoche’ or head lama incarnate of the monastery conducts the rites and
ceremonies of the festival. He sits on a high throne placed in the centre of the long
veranda that runs along one side of the rectangular courtyard facing the huge,
elevated gates of the monastery’s main prayer hall or Du-khang. This room
actually serves as the green room for the artists during the festival.
The lamas of the monastery and the monk musicians in their full ceremonial attire,
sit on carpet-covered cushions on either side of the throne in the veranda,
according to their hierarchy.
The Rimpoche leads the lamas in the recitation of the mantras associated with the
‘Chhams’, thus creating the appropriate ambience for the dancers to enact the role
of the deities whose guise they adopt. For the lay devotees, however, seeing the
masked dancers serves to familiarise themselves with the kind of deities they are
to encounter during the 49-day- ‘Bardo’ or transition period between death and
rebirth in one of the six forms of existence, depending upon one’s karmic
existence.
The monastic festivals also provide the local people an opportunity for socialising,
trading and entertainment.
For the more devoted villagers, however, the event is essentially a pilgrimage to
the monastery and its various temples, for it is during this period only that they can
see all the images and figures, which are otherwise kept veiled.
The monastic festivals of Ladakh are governed by the Tibetan calendar which is
luni-solar. So the dates vary form year to year, requiring astrological calculations to
determine each year’s calendar. Traditionally, at the end of the year, the
astrologers prepare a new calendar of festivals so that it is available as the new
year ushers in. But in the absence of long-term calendars, visitors face problems in
planning trips to Ladakh to witness these events.
In order to address this problem, the J&K Tourism Department has had a 10-year
calendar of festivals, for the period 2000 AD to 2009 AD, prepared by an
astrologer, which is included in this site for the convenience of visitors.
Calendar of Monastic Festivals
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Arts And Crafts
There is little tradition of artistic craftsmanship in
Ladakh, most luxury articles in the past having been
obtained through imports. The exception is the village
of Chilling, about 19-km up the Zanskar River from
Nimo. Here, a community of metal workers, said to
be the descendants of artisans brought from Nepal in
the mid-17th century to build one of the gigantic
Buddha - images at Shey, carry on their hereditary
vocation. Working in silver, brass and copper, they
produce exquisite items for domestic and religious
use: Tea and Chang pots, teacup-stands and lids,
Hookah-bases, ladles and bowls and cooking pots
they need for everyday use.
Weaving
'Pattu', the rough, war, woollen material used for clothing is made from locally
produced wool, spun by women on drop-spindle, and woven by semi-professional
weavers on portable looms set up in the winter sunshine, or under the shade of a
tree in summer. Baskets, for the transport of any kind of burden-manufacture for
the fields, fresh vegetables, even babies-are woven out of willow twigs, or a
particular variety of grass. Woodwork is confined largely to the production of pillars
and carved lintels for the houses, and the low carved tables that are a feature of
every Ladakhi living room.
Thangka Paintings
The Handicrafts Centre also has a department of Thanka painting. These icons on
cloth are executed in accordance with strict guidelines handed down from past
generations. In the same tradition are the mural paintings in the Gompas, where
semi-professionals, both monks and laymen about to keep the walls decorated with
images symbolizing the various aspects of the Buddhist Way. The skill of building
religious statues is also not extinct. The gigantic representation of Maitreya was
installed in Thise Gompa as recently as the early 1980s.
New Areas
Even Rupshu' s bare hills support a sparse population of wildlife, and the animal
most likely to be spotted is the Kyang, the wild Ass of the Ladakh and Tibet
plateaux. More plentiful are Marmots (ubiquitous on mountain slopes all over
Ladakh), Hares, and an unusual tail-less rat. The lakes are breeding-grounds for
numerous species of birds. Chief among them are the bareheaded Goose, found in
great numbers on the Tso-moriri, the great crested grebe, the Brahmini Duck
(Ruddy Sheldrake) and the brown-headed Gull.
Ladakh is a high altitude cold desert with a low level of atmospheric oxygen. It is,
therefore, absolutely necessary that visitors reaching Leh from the plains of India
by air, give themselves sufficient time for acclimatization before engaging in any
physical activity. The rarefied atmosphere may cause high altitude ailments like
Acute Mountain Sickness, necessitating instant evacuation of visitors who are
unable to get acclimatized.
High Altitude Pulmonary Oedema (HAPO) and High Altitude Cerebral Oedema
(HACO) are very serious forms of acute mountain sickness. These are life-
threatening ailments and warrant immediate medical attention.
River Rafting
Ladakh offers many options for undertaking adventure activities amidst landscapes
of spectacular, rugged beauty. These mainly include river rafting, mountaineering
and trekking.
The most difficult but exciting rafting option is available on the Zanskar River,
along its spectacular course through a
gorge in the Zanskar Mountains,
between Padum and Nimu. This is
suitable only for well-organized white-
water expeditions, prepared for about
a week of rafting and camping in
absolute wilderness. Participants are ; B
required to be trained rafters
themselves while the arrangements should be assigned to a dependable
professional agency. Adequate arrangement for rescue back-up is an essential
prerequisite for embarking upon this white-water expedition.
Mountain Climbing
The area nearest to Leh is the Stok-Khangri massif in the Zanskar Mountains,
south of Leh. The base camp for the various
peaks of this massif is about two days'trek
from the Stok village. Among its known
peaks, Stok- Khangri (6,150 m) is the
highest. It offers a spectacular perspective
to the central expanse of the Indus Valley,
which it dominates. Other peaks in the area
include Gulap Khangri (5,900 m), Matho
; -% West (5,950 m) and Kantaka (5,275 m).
The much higher Konglacha Peak (6,700 m) lies southwest of Leh and is reached
via Rumbak on the first leg of the Markha Valley trek from Stok. Besides there are
many unnamed peaks in the altitude range of 5,500 m to 6,400 m available for
climbing.
North of Leh, across the Ladakh Range and the Nubra Valley, lies the
Karakoram Range. It soars to a number of known peaks which are, however,
within the restricted area and so not freely accessible to foreign climbers except
with special permission from the Government of India. The most prominent
summits in this range, which are accessible from various parts of the Nubra Valley
include, Saser-I (7,415 m), Saser-II (7,513 m) and Saser-III (7,495 m).
The climbing season extends from mid-May to mid-October, the ideal period being
from June to September because during this time only Ladakh remains unaffected
by the monsoon, which holds sway over most of the Himalayas.
Foreign climbing expeditions are required to
obtain permission from the Indian
Mountaineering Foundation for climbing all
listed peaks. A booking fee, based on the
height and popularity of the allotted peak, is
charged and a Liaison Officer is assigned to
every climbing team. The minimum period
required for processing applications for
permission is six months. A list of peaks
available for climbing and application forms
for booking along with other requisite
+
documents can be obtained from the
Director, Indian Mountaineering Foundation, Benito Juarez Road, New Delhi-
110021. For further details goto <www.indmount.com>
Trekking
The trekking options range from short, day-long walks up and down mountain
slopes to visit monuments or monastic settlements (or across a ridge to enjoy the
sheer beauty of the lunar landscape), or long, trans-mountain treks involving weeks
of walking and camping in the wilderness.
For example, the trek from Lamayuru in the
Indus Valley to Darcha in Lahoul, across
Zanskar Valley, takes nearly three weeks
and crosses 2 major mountain ranges. Most
of the established routes traverse the
Zanskar range, which separates the Indus
Valley from Zanskar. The 10-day Markha
Valley trek, the 11-day Lamayuru- Padum
traverse and the 4/5-day Stok-Khangri
round trek are the more popular ones. In
recent years, parts of the Ladakh range, % #
which lie between the Indus and Shayok
valleys, have also become available for trekking.
The trekking season normally extends from
early June to mid-October. But short, localised
treks within the central Indus valley can be
undertaken even in May. On the other hand,
some routes are suitable only for the late
autumn as during the summer the tracks are
submerged due to excessive flow of water, as is
in the case of the Hemis-Markha-Padum trek.
The winter access to Zanskar is actually along
the frozen surface of the Zanskar River called
Chaddar route. This route, though difficult and
! highly demanding in terms of arrangements, is
perhaps one of the most exciting and memorable foot journeys in the world.
TREKKING IN LADAKH
Ladakh offers very interesting trekking routes for trekkers. Trekking possibilities include short, day -long
walks up and down mountain slopes to visit isolated villages or monastic settlements, or across a ridge
to enjoy the sheer beauty of the lunar mountainscape. Or long, transmountain treks involving weeks of
walking and camping the wilderness.
Ladakh is rich in wildlife, you may come a across some rare species like gazelles, ibex, ammon or
shapo etc. You are sure to see Yak and Demos grazing on mountain pastures. The mountain river can
be the only sound in your solitude as it runs along your route. All these may go to make your trek in this
region a memorable moment, the experience of the life time.
The summer visitors to Leh will need basically warm- weather clothes, with a sweeter for evenings and
mornings when it may be chilly. Temperatures begin to fall around the 2nd half of August, and though
cottons continue to be worm during the day until mid September, a heavy sweeter or an anorak or coat
will be needed in the mornings and evenings. Form mid September it starts getting distinctly cold and
woollens are needed even during the day, though in the sun it is still hot. Winter visitors- which means
November to April- will need to equip themselves with heavy woollens, anoraks or tweed coats, gloves,
balaclave helmets or equivalent and warm boots.
Reasonably good trekking equipment can be hired from Private Tour Operators specialised in mountain
treks. All trekkers should remember that nights in the mountains would be chilly at any time of the year
and make sure that they should be fully equipped for the treks. They must carry enough food for the
whole trek, basic supplies- fruit & vegetables or the occasional villages enroute will be able to provide
local food if you run out of food stock. It is advisable to keep a good torch handy during treks and visit to
the monasteries because shrines are often found ill- lit.
PADAM - MANALI 8 DAYS TREK DETAILS.
Padam the head quarter of Zanskar Sub Division provides the facility of the refilling of fuel and food
provision etc. One can arrange pony, porters and guide for the trek and can visit the Karsha monastery
and Stakrimo monastery while in Padam.
The trek goes on to the south east of Padam and the trekkers have to follow the jeepable road almost
for 15 km from here in Lungnak valley. They should follow upstream of Zanskar River. The valley
promises one of its beautiful villages on both side of the river. There are bridges to cross the mountain
streams. The village of Raru provides a fairly big camping site at the lower end of the village. Drinking
water is available at a bit distance.
The trail almost goes to the South East of the Village having several ups and downs. There are several
small but peculiar villages enroute. Each village has a small monastery . A person of these villages
looks very cheerful. To your right on the other side of river is the village of Cha. One may camp there
near the bridge, again you have to descend down into the deep canyon for water.
The trail descend down and ultimately the ascend of the trail reveal you a tri -junction of the ranges
and the trail branches off. The trail which descends down takes you to a wooden bridge. On crossing
the bridge here comes Purney village and at a distance of an another hour walking, lies the famous
cave monastery of Phuktal. The trail runs on the right side of Zanskar river. There are several villages
enroute. One can see Yaks near the mountains of Testa. The upper end of the village provides a
beautiful camping site free of charge.
Your trail still follow the river up stream. The mighty river turns into a mountain stream here and the
trekkers have to ford the same twice or thrice. You can see Yaks in a every village enroute. Just before
the village of Kargiah a lake with clear water exists which adds to the beauty of the valley. Kargiah is
very cold during late autumn and early spring. Camping can be done in the heart of the village.
The windy place needs courage to fight the wind because it always flow to the opposite direction. Now
hundred s of Yaks and Dzos can be seen enroute. The mountain stream has to be crossed to your right.
During summer one must try to cross the stream early in the morning when the water is low. A steep
climbing leads your way to a mountain abode here, accommodation should be taken in one of those
abodes. The climate is very cold here . Woollen clothes and good sleeping bags with sleeping mats
recommended.
One should start the trek very early while the Shingkunla has lot of snow . 3 hours of hard climb take
you to the peak of Shingkunla 5100 Metres. On the other side one can see a lake of blue water or the
transit camp for the migrating water dwellers. The descend being a bit steep changes of skipping from
the snow covered route is there. It may take you another 3 or 4 hours of descending upto the last border
of Jammu and Kashmir State Zanskar Sumdo. The other side of river is the territory of Himachal
Pradesh State. The Himachal Pardesh border provides a green camping place.
Right from the camping site the route passes through sandy and among boulders which creates a lot of
problem for the beast of burdens. The mountain ranges are green a tress can be seen frequently. Trails
takes you to the other side of river now your trail has some trees by its side the first village of Himachal
Pardesh is Chaka very small village and the second village is Rari. The villages being adjacent to each
other the both are named as Chaka- Rari. A rough jeepable road leads you to the village of Darcha at a
Tri Junction. Here your trek comes to an end. Next morning very early a Bus can take you to Manali in
one day 7 hours drive. The shopkeeper should be consulted about the timing of the Bus service
because it is subject to change.
2) SPITUK - STOK 3 DAYS TREK.
This is a short and easiest trek for those who have very short time and needs sleeping bags, tents and
food provision for three days. Accommodation can be had at every halting point and there are camping
site at a nominal rent.
Transfer by jeep or by Bus to the nearby village, Spituk and same morning, one can start the trekking
down through the barren landscape after crossing Indus from Spituk bridge. The trail abruptly turns to
the east through a narrow valley when you come across a stream. While walking upstream, one has to
cross the water thrice to reach a wooded place. A mild ascend takes you to the village of Zingchan
comprising of two houses. The upper end of village offer a good camping place. One has to pay a
nominal rent for the camping place.
Immediately beyond the camp is a wooden bridge across a mountain stream. Thereafter you have to do
three or four more crossing but the water is not more than knee deep during the summer months. At the
junction of two valleys, the route goes turns east in the narrow valley and one can see the small village
of Rumbak. Camping is possible by the side of a stream.
It is recommended to start the trek early. The trail ascends gradually upto the base of Stok la. Now the
ascend is bit steep and continues for another 2 hours. While at the peak once can have a very close
view of the Stok glaciers and a panoramic view of Indus valley and the mountain ranges beyond Indus
river. The descend is as steep as the ascend on the other side, one can reach Stok in four hours.
Enroute to Leh, the capital town, one can visit Stok monastery, Stok Palace Museum. There is a daily
Bus service in the afternoon and in the evening.
3) MARKHA VALLEY TREK 9 DAYS.
This trek is possible from mid April to mid November. Trekkers should be equipped with tents, sleeping
bags, cooking equipment and food provisions for 9 days. The trek promises a Panoramic view of
beautiful mountain ranges and of small villages high up in the mountains .
One can avail the daily bus to Spituk which is just 9 Kms from Leh town, and start the trek on the same
day. A bridge takes you across the mighty river Indus to Farkha village. A walk through barren land -
scape takes you to the junction where you come across a mountain stream. After fording the stream
three or four times you reach a hamlet Zingchan consisting of two houses. The upper end of the village
offers a beautiful camping places at a nominal charge.
After walking 3 hours upstream, two valleys come to your site , one to east and another to the south
west . Rumbak a small village remains to your left. Those going to Markha have to follow the trail to the
south west. After a mild ascend one reaches Yurutse consisting of two houses. After 2 hours walking a
good camping site with clear spring water is available at the base of Kandala ( 4,900 Mtrs).
Having climbed the Kandala ( 4,900 Metrs) peak which commands a panoramic view of the surrounding
mountains, the descend from here to the base may take 2 hours to Shingo, a small village. Now the
gorge takes one’s route through thick groves of willow tress upto Choli Chikpo,almost descending to the
village Sku to your left in a valley to the south east. There is also a valley to the right, or south west,
which goes to Chiling, Sku, a fairly big village, offers a very good camping site in the heart of village
on rental basis.
Most times, the river remains to the right and has to be crossed a few times. While crossing the river
when in spate, trekkers should consult their guide or horseman. After pleasant walk through the wooded
valley you reach the biggest village on the trek, Markha. The village consisting of approximately 50
houses and has a monastery on a mountain spur at the lower end of the village.
An hour walk from this village, you have to ford the river first time and follow the river upstream. You
have to cross the same stream three or four times. The trail is a gentle climb upto the village of Hankar.
Here one can pitch tents without any camping charges.
To the south east of Hankar the trail continues uphill, ascending for the next high pass. The base of the
high pass is called Nimaling, an uninhabited place. Camping by the side of water is recommended . It
being the coldest place sometimes the temperature falls below zero degrees during the summer.
The trail begins to ascend right from the camping spot. One can have a beautiful view of the mountain
ranges and the wildlife around this pass . The summit of the pass, Kongmarula ,5,030 metres, reveals
different snow clad mountain peaks all around. The trail descend and at some points it is very steep
and narrow. Loaded animals need great care in traversing the trail and at some places the narrow
gorge . Follow downstream upto Shang Sumdo, a good camping place near water.
At a little distance from the camping place there is a valley to your left which takes you to Shang village,
but trekkers continue straight down the wider valley, following the stream down hill. During the summer
season, one should consult the guide or porter before crossing the water. The wider valley reveals the
panoramic view of Indus valley. One can pitch tent by the side of water in Martselang.
After breakfast, one should follow the trail towards the west which takes you to the famous monastery of
Hemis . You have sufficient time to visit the monastery, the place also offers restaurant facilities during
the tourist season. There is a daily bus service leaving Hemis for Leh by 12 noon. Bus timings are
subject to change from time to time. One can consult the restaurant owner for the departure of the bus .
Leh , the capital town is 47 Kms from here.
4) LEH - PADUM TREKKING VIA JUNGLAM 11 DAYS.
Leh Padum trekking via junglam is seasonal and is therefore practicable from mid April to mid June and
from mid September to November. This trekking demand a bid of endurance as it arduous and
mountain rivers has to be negotiated for scores of time. Trekkers should be fully equipped and food
provision should be carried by them.
One can go to Spituk by Bus or Taxi. At Spituk a bridge takes you across the river Indus to Farkha
village. You follow a trail which initially goes towards the south west and after wards turns to east where
a stream meets your routes to your right. After fording the stream for three times you reach Zingchan, a
hamlet consisting of 2 houses. The upper end of the village offer a good camping site at a nominal rate.
After 3 hours walk from Zingchan two valleys come to your site one to east and another to the south
west. Rumbak a small village remains to your left. People bound for Markha trek have to follow the route
leading to south west. After fording the stream for two times and having a mild ascending you reach
Yurutse, consisting of 2 houses. After two hours walking a good camping site with clear spring water is
available at the base of Kandala ( 4,900 Mtrs.)
Having climbed Kandala, its peaks commends a good panoramic view of the surrounding mountains.
The descending to trend of the routes continues up to Shingo, consisting 2 houses. The route pass
through a gorge with groves of willow tress. As the end of the gorge the lower end of Sku village can be
seen where the route branch off to opposite direction. The route to the Southeast leads to Sku, while the
route to the Southwest goes to Chiling. Sku also offer very good camping site in the heart of the village.
For most of the time the streams remains flow to your right which you have to cross several times. After
a pleasant walk through the wooded valley you reach Markha, the biggest village in this trekking,
consisting of 50 houses and a monastery on mountain spur at the lower end of the village.
The trail leads Langrula ( 4900 Mtrs), from a top the pass, the route branch off, one in front is very
steep which is not advisable and the other to the left has a gradual descending, come across Kharnak
Sumdo. Valley runs to the Southeast and to the Southwest. The former valley is restricted. One should
follow the route to the south west. An hour walk bring you to Bairpa Kyanchik, a suitable camping place.
Between Bairpa - Kyanchik and Tilat Sumdo route pass through narrow gorges, Tilat Sumdo offers
good camping place. After the gorge trail turns to the east and ascends continuously upto the Tilat
Sumdo, the river has to be crossed after every half a kilometre. The route is very narrow, specially at
Nari Nartse. It is quite precarious for loaded animals. Ultimately you reach Stopdongsa which offer
camping place.
En route there are glaciers . Sta shong Gamishong offer camping place. It being the coldest place the
water freezes during night. Therefore water for morning use should be stored in the evening.
8th DAY STASHONG GAMISHONG - CHAR CHAR LA 6 hours.
Stashong Gamishong the trail is very narrow at the initial stage. The animal has to be unloaded at
certain places. After the gorge turns to the east and ascends continues upto the summit of Charcharla (
5030 Metres), from the top of the pass one can enjoy the panoramic view of the surrounding mountain
of Zanskar valley and descend to the south base camp of Charcharla for nearly 2 hours. At the base
water and wood is available.
The trail descend towards Zangla. En- route a river has to be forded for several times.
The trail passes through narrow gorges and the descending continues upto Zangla. Zangla is fairly a
big village with a monastery and an old palace.
It is almost flat walking. Villages like Tsazer and Shiling Skit can be visited enroute. Stongday has a big
and a prominent monastery.
From Stongday, Karsha on the right side of the river and Padum which is the Headquarter of Zanskar
Sub-Division can be seen. Accommodation both in Public and Private Sector is available. Food
provision can be purchase from the shops. A Tourist Office also exist in Padum.
A good number of buses ply past Likir village from Leh, right from 8 o’clock in the morning to 1 P.M .
These buses drop one on the road side about 1 Km. Away from the village. Start by the morning bus,
walk up to the village, visit the monastery, after your meals make all preparations for the next days
journey. Night halt at Likir in a guest house or a tented camp.
From the village the trekking path descends into a narrow gorge. Follow the trail along the bare hill
down the village upto Sumda in the next valley. Before you enter Sumdo village the path forks at a
stupa. Follow the path on the left side till you reach Yangthang village. Hire a guide to visit Rizong
Gonpa ( a secluded and a peaceful monastery) and back to the village for the night.
Continue your journey towards west to the village through a narrow gorge and then climbing a pass to
Hemis-shukpachan. There are guest houses and camping sites available in the village for night stay.
The path to Tingmosgang passes through a wide valley past several big stupas. Take the path sloping
down the south upto the bottom of the valley and again start climbing up from the valley along the
northern slope of the valley till you reach the top of the Maptak-la. Continue along a gentle slope down
to Tingmosgang. Visit Tingmosgang Palace and the monastery over a hillock. There is another small
Gonpa called Tseskarmo inside a valley extending to the North along a narrow valley up from the
village. This monastery is unique in its location and tranquil surroundings. Plan your night halt at a
camping site or in a guest house. The twin villages of Tingmosgang and Tia is continues up stream
along a beautiful clear water rivulet up to a centuries old small monastery called Khatsa Gonpa. A
rarely visited by tourists this monastery is worth seeing. You should plan to visit the monastery early in
the morning on the last day of your trekking. There is a daily bus service from Tingmosgang to Leh
at 8 A.M.
LAMAYURU - ALCHI 6 DAYS TREK
1St DAY LEH - LAMAYURU
Plan your trekking on this route by contacting guides, helpers etc. at Leh. Purchase food stuff and hire
trekking equipments before starting from Leh. Since availability of porters and pony at Lamayuru is
uncertain ensure that your porter or pony is arranged before hand . Proceed to Lamayuru by taxi or Leh-
Srinagar Bus along with your guide, food stuff etc. On reaching Lamayuru you have plenty of time to
visit the famous 11th century Lamayuru monastery and see some interesting landscapes around the
village. Night halt at Lamayuru in a guest house.
Follow the well mark path on the other side of the village along a slope which rises gradually to the top
of Prinkitila ( 3500 Mtrs) then the path descend down a very narrow gorge till you reach Wanla village.
The guide or the pony man can tell you the proper camping site. The duration of trekking is only 5 hours
so you have enough time to visit the monastery, go around the village and chat with local people.
Continuing up stream along the foot path proceed to Fanjila, a small village at the junction of two
streams. There is a good camping place near a spring at the upper end of the village.
Here one can see wild animals in abundance. The trail ascends gradually to the east and you may feel a
little breath less while climbing. The ascend becomes more difficult when you are near the Tarla Base.
The base is uninhabited and one can manage to pitch tents at this beautiful place.
5th DAY TARLA BASE - TAR( via TARLA 4900 Mtrs) 4 hours.
The ascend to the pass being very steep, the loaded animals can not cross this pass in early spring and
late autumn. Tarla, almost 4,900 Mtrs high and the trekkers walk over snow even in summer. The peak
offers very beautiful views of mountain ranges. The descend is also steep and continue down to the
village of Tar. Plan your night halt at a camping site.
Follow the well mark path sloping down gradually. Between Tar and Alchi village, there are some small
villages. Within a period of approximately 6 hours reach at Alchi Village. Visit Alchi monastery that is
very famous for its ancient wall paintings and wood carving. Night halt at Alchi in a guest house. In the
morning at 7 A.M. there is a bus service from Alchi to Leh.
LAMAYURU - PADUM 10 DAYS TREK.
Ist DAY LAMAYURU - FANJILA
Accommodation in a guest house or camping site is available in Lamayuru . It is a big village, horses
and porters are available in this village but purchase food stuff and trekking equipment from Leh. The
pony trek goes to the south east of Lamayuru, follow the well mark path along a slope which rises
gradually to the top of the Prinkitila 3,500 Mtrs high. Then the paths descend down a very narrow gorge
till you reach Shela village. The road traverse through the valley of Shela and Wanla can be seen from
here at the distance of 5 Kms. And can visit the monastery and a castle in ruin.
There is a beautiful halting place for lunch at the side of the stream and a good camping site. Continue
your journey towards the village of Tarchet by crossing the Hanupata stream. The well mark path leads
to another village at the meeting point of three ways the name of this village is Fanjila. Night halt at
Fanjila in a tented camp.
Approximate distance is 7 hours walking . Starting this trek early in the morning is recommendable cross
Urtse water and keep on walking on a broader trail on the left side of Hanupata stream for 5 kms. And it
comes a peculiar bridge built with the help of two wooden poles covered with stone slabs. Almost at a
distance of 1 Km. From the bridge is the trail of Dem-Dem Chan. The trail has been cut out of very hard
rock during the year 1978, to avoid Gyapopass, the ascend to this pas was very crucial. Those who are
with loaded animals should unload their luggage and adjust the loads on once own back just from the
first crue. In the month of October one can avoid this foot path Dem-Dem-Chan just by walking stream
side.
Now it comes a natural bridge -like formation of rocks. Here one can transfer the loads again on the
horse back. After a little distance from here two valleys comes as well as it is the junction of two streams
that is Photoksar to the left and Hanupata stream to the right side. Follow the Hanupata water
upstream.Before the proper village comes a chorten attached to a Mani wall. It is the village of
Hanupata 3,700 metres high. For accommodation there is a good camping site.
Follow the right side of the Hanupata stream, the trail is well marked and at the distance of another 1
Km.it start their ‘ Dok’ where the shepherds live in summer. There after the trail descends towards the
side of the stream and cross the Hanupata stream over the bridge. The foot path goes on left of the
stream and the water bottles should be filled here. It is the base camp for She-Shela. To cross the She-
Shela 4500 metres high it takes two and half hours.
The people who are interested in wild animals can see marmots just near the top of She-shela. After an
hour walk from the top Yak and Dzomos can be seen. At another little distance is a chorten attached a
Mani wall, from this shorten the village of Photoksar is seen. There is a camping site for night halt. For
edibles one should not depend upon the villagers.
From Photoksar your route ascends on the other side of the river of Photoksar for a small pass called
Bamiktsala. The descend of Bomiktsala reveals the whole route to the base of Singheyla through a
wider valley. In the evening you can reach at the base of Singheyla and pitch tents by the side of the
mountain stream for night halt.
5th DAY BASE OF SINGHEY LA - SKUMPATA.
The trail traverse a plateau like valley and walk to the east gradually leads to the famous pass known
as Singheyla 5400 Metres. high. While reaching the top one should not take much time here. Well the
descend from here not very steep. You reach a place of two houses is called Skumpa-ta. There is
beautiful camping site for night halt.
It would be recommend to start the trek early in the morning in order to reach the next destinations well
in time. If you take the walk easily you may reach the Lingshet village in the afternoon. You have a
enough time to visit the monastery.It is worth seeing you can pitch the tent near the monastery.
It is a gentle climb for an hour from the village. Here the trail ascend up for another pass called
Hanumala which is 4700 metres high. The ascend to this pass is not very steep while you are at the top
of the pass you can see Debring la to the North. It is an easy descending for half an hour where you
meet a spring water on the way. After a little walk from here the route turns quite rough for loaded
animals. Here the loaded animals has to be unloaded because the trail is so narrow and one has to
transfer the load on one’s own back. The route traverses through a wooded place and leads your way to
Omangschu. Near the water you can pitch your tent and spend the night easily.
Now the route ascend directly just at the chest of Parpila (4700 metres) high and once you are at the
summit of pass it reveals the whole valley of Zanskar. The descend is gradually and one can enjoy the
descending towards a wider valley. After that the flat walking starts till the first village of Zanskar named
Rinam. At a short distance there is another village called Pidmo. There is a camping site for night halt.
At a distance of an hour’s walk on the right side of Zanskar River from Pidmo one can see Zangla
village and after walking for two hours from Pidmo there is Pishu village. A little above this village cross
the Zanskar river through a rope bridge. Visit Zangla Gonpa and Palace. From here it takes two hours to
reach the village Rinam.
Before starting from Rinam one should carry enough drinking water as you don’t get water for then two
hours before reaching Karsha. Continue your journey through a vast plain. Before reaching Padum the
path forks in two directions. Follow the right trail to visit Karsha village. Visit the monastery and continue
to walk towards Padum crossing the river through a bridge. There are guest houses and hotels for stay.
LEH
LEH
Leh Town and around
Leh town offers a number of sightseeing options for the visitors. A historic town that
served as the royal capital of the Old Kingdom, it is
dominated by the nine-storey palace built by King
Singge Namgyal in the grand tradition of Tibetan
architecture, which is said to have inspired the famous
Potala in Lhasa built about half a century later.
Or one can strike off away from the bazaar, past Zangsti and the Moravian
Church to the Ladakh Ecological Centre and appreciate the work being done by
this NGO in applying folk technology to meet the demands of modern life in
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Ladakh. From here a footpath across the fields leads to Sankar Gompa, which is
half an hour’s walk away.
Or one can leave the main road from the bazaar near the Moravian Church and
turn off to Changspa, an attractive suburb of Leh, lying below the hill on which
stands the imposing Ladakh Shanti Stupa, which can be reached by a winding
road. Down past the Tourist Information Centre in the old dak Bungalow, follow the
Fort Road to Skara, another pretty and prosperous suburb of Leh town, and admire
the earthen ramparts of Zorawar Singh' s fort, now housing army barracks. This
road continues onward, swinging around the village to meet the main highway near
a crossroad, where the roads from Srinagar and Manali meet. A branch of this road
turns southward and traverses the interior of Skara to meet the main highway near
the airport, an excellent drive through the heart of the sprawling village.
There are also several attractive sightseeing and walking destinations within a 10-
km radius of Leh. Sabu, a charming village with a small gompa, nestles between
two minor spurs of the Ladakh range, about 9 kms away from the town. In the
same direction, but nearer town is Choglamsar, with the Tibetan refugee
settlement including a children’s village, a handicrafts centre devoted largely to
carpet weaving and the Dalai Lama' s prayer-ground, Jiva-tsal. And in the opposite
direction, about 8 kms on the Srinagar road, is the turning for Spituk village and its
imposing monastery.
Monuments
village with which the deposed royal family was compensated for the loss of the
throne. Stok Palace, where the royal family now lives, houses a museum of
artefacts associated with the dynasty.
Monasteries
The central area of Ladakh has the greatest concentration of major Buddhist
monasteries or gompas. Of the twelve situated on or near the Indus, the oldest
monastery is that of Lamayuru, which is believed to have been a sacred site for
the pre-Buddhist religion known as Bon. The monasteries of Phiyang, Hemis and
Chemrey were all founded under the direct patronage of members of the ruling
Namgyal dynasty. Phiyang represents an act of penance by the 16th century King
Tashi Namgyal for
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the violence and treachery by which he reached the throne. Hemis monastery,
together with that of Hanle near the Tibetan border, was established at the
instance of King Singge Namgyal, while his widow founded Chemrey as a
posthumous act of merit for him. Stakna, dating from a slightly earlier period, was
endowed by the Namgyal kings at various times. All these belong to the Red Hat
(Kargyud-Pa) sect of Tibetan monasticism.
!
Tak-thok and Matho gompas represent the
smaller but much older Nying-ma-pa and
Saskya-pa monastic sects respectively. Tak-
thok, situated at the foot of the Chang-la
pass, incorporates one of the many caves in
the Himalayas where the Indian Buddhist
apostle Padmasambhava is said to have
rested and meditated on his journey to Tibet.
Matho gompa is famous for its festival of the
oracles, which is held early in the year, Likir Monastery
usually in the first half of March.
%
Most of the region’s principal monasteries are open throughout the day and a
caretaker lama is there to show visitors around. Some of the less visited
establishments have special opening hours as in the case of the Namgyal Tsemo,
Shey Palace etc. Check the timings in the Tourist Office before proceeding to these
places. Also, most monasteries charge a small entrance fee.
! "
The Leh-Manali road is also open up to one mile east of its general alignment.
Although the northeastern and northern regions of Ladakh are now partially opened
for foreign tourists, there are required to obtain permission from the Deputy
Commissioner, Leh. This is only subject to several condition of travelling along
certain identified tour circuits in groups of four or more. Permission to enter to other
restricted areas can be sought from:
Down the Indus, between Khalatse and the Shayok-Indus confluence, live a
people, known as Drok-pa, who are Buddhists by faith, but racially and culturally
distinct from the rest of the Ladakhis. Two of the five villages inhabited by them,
Dah and Biama are now open to foreign tourists. The route follows the Indus river
down from Khalatse, past the villages of Domkhar, Skurbuchan and
Achinathang, along a fairly good road.
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The Nubra Valley Circuit
The name Nubra is applied to the region comprising the valley of the river Nubra
and that of the Shayok, both above and below their confluence, where they
meander in many shifting channels over a broad sandy plain, before flowing off to
the north-west to join the Indus in Baltistan. The Shayok and Nubra rivers drain the
east and west sides of the Saser sub-range of Karakoram. The route from Leh
crosses over the Khardung-la, the
highest motorable road in the world.
The line of the road is different from that
of the old pony-trail, longer and actually
higher (18,300 ft 5,578 m). The view
from the top is amazing. One can see
all the way south over the Indus valley
to the seemingly endless peaks and
ridges of the Zanskar range, and north
to the giants of the Saser massif. For
several kilometres, on each side of the
pass, the road, covered by deep snow
A Bactrian camel in Nubra valley
in winter, is rough. For the rest of the
way the road is good. At the confluence of the two rivers there is no dearth of
water, but the sandy soil is not suitable for agriculture, which is confined to the
alluvial fans where side streams drain into the main valley. The valley floor itself is
covered with dense thickets of a thorny shrub, which the villagers use for fuel and
for fencing, though there is now less need for this than there was in the days of the
caravan trade with Central Asia when up to 10,000 horses a year are said to
traverse the district. The villages are large and prosperous, and have thick
plantations of willow and poplar. The altitude is a little less than that of Leh, varying
between 10,000 ft (3,231 m) at Hundar, and 10,600 ft (3231 m) at Panamik.
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Summer temperatures vary between 15 C and 28 C. The main village is Deskit,
which has a bazaar comprising of single line of shops, and a gompa situated on a
rocky spur above the village with a commanding view.
From Deskit, the route follows the course of the Shayok to Hundar, past an area of
rolling sand dunes, with their contours liable to shift with every gale. There is a
small population of the shaggy double-humped Bactrian camels, which in the old
days were used as pack animals on the Central Asian trade route. During the past
50 years, they have been bred for transport purposes in Nubra. Today visitors to
Nubra can use these animals for going on camel safaris.
The other circuit proceeds up the Nubra River, taking in the pretty villages of Tirit,
Lukung, Tegar and Sumur. Nubra' s other major monastery. Samsta-ling is
situated on the mountainside just above Sumur. This was the route taken by the
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trade caravans. Panamik, the last village on this circuit, was at that time a busy
centre, being the last major settlement before the caravans entered into the
mountains of Karakoram and the Kun-Lu.
Here they halted for a few days to make
final preparations for the journey across the
mountains, or to recuperate on the way
back. The Government maintained a
granary to sell food grains for the men and
even for the horses. But this arrangement
was insufficient for the amount of the traffic,
and the villagers made huge profits, selling
grain and fodder and letting out their fodder-
fields for the horses to graze in. Today,
Panamik is a sleepy village, its inhabitants
quietly going about their work in the fields. Bactrian camels among the sand
On the mountainside above the village, hot dunes of nubra
water bubbles out of the earth in thermal springs, reputed to have therapeutic
qualities. Across the river, clinging to the mountains, are a few trees rooted among
the rocks surrounding the tiny Ensa gompa.
Pangong Lake Circuit
Leh-Karu-Changla-Durbuk-Tangtse-Lukung-Spangmik and return.
This route proceeds past the picturesque
villages of Shey and Thikse, and turns into
the side-valley of Chemrey and Sakti. The
Ladakh range is crossed by the Chang-la
(18,000 ft / 5,475 m) which is one of the
easier passes remaining open for much of
the year even in winter. Tangtse, just beyond
the foot of the pass, with an ancient temple
and a Tourist Bungalow, is a convenient
halting point on this circuit.
The main attraction of this circuit is the The Pangong Lake
Pangong Lake, situated at an altitude of
14,000 ft (4,267m). It is a long narrow basin of inland drainage, hardly 6 to 7 kms at
its widest point, and over 130 kms long, and bisected by the international border
between India and China. Spangmik, the farthest point up to which foreigners are
permitted, is about 7 kms along the southern shore from the head of the lake. It
presents a spectacular view of the mountains of the Chang-chenmo range to the
north, their reflections shimmering in the ever-changing blues and greens of the
lake’s brackish waters. Above Spangmik are the glaciers and snow-capped peaks
of the Pangong range. Spangmik and a scattering of other tiny villages along the
lake' s southern shore are the summer homes of a scanty population of Chang-pa,
the nomadic herdsmen of Tibet and southeast Ladakh. The Pangong Chang-pa
cultivate sparse crops of barley and peas in summer. It is in winter that they unfold
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their yak wool tents called rebo, and take the flocks of sheep and pashmina goats
out to the distant pastures.
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Despite its barrenness Rupshu’s hills support a
sparse population of wildlife, and the animal
most likely to be spotted is the Kyang, the wild
ass of the Ladakh and Tibetan plateaux. More
plentiful are marmots (ubiquitous to mountain
slopes all over Ladakh), hares, and an unusual
tail-less rat. The lakes are breeding grounds for
numerous species of birds. Chief among them is
the bar-headed goose, found in great numbers
on the Tso-moriri, the great crested grebe, the
9 Brahmini duck and the bar-headed gull.
La vallée de Markha.
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Les enfants de Markha, chef-lieu de la
vallée, attendent au soleil le moment
de rentrer à l'
école.
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Road Journeys
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villages with their terraced fields and neat whitewashed houses, the roofs piled
high with neat stacks of fodder laid in against the coming winter. Here and there
one notices the ruins of an ancient fort or palace or the distant glimpse of a gompa
th
on a hill. And at last Leh is visible, dominated by the bulk of its imposing 17
century palace.
The Zanskar Range, which lies next on this road, is crossed through two more
passes, the Lachulung-la (16,600 ft / 5,059m) and the Taglang-la (17,469 ft /
5,325rn). Between these two, there is nothing but rock and sand, rolling hills and
broad plains scoured by dust devils. An occasional pasture here and there provides
nourishment for the flocks of the nomadic Chang-pa herdspeople who are the
region's only inhabitants, apart from the seasonal entrepreneurs from Leh and
Lahoul, who erect tents and shacks at various points along the road, to cater to the
needs of travellers. Once over the Taglang-la, the descent to the Indus starts, and
soon one passes the first village, Rumtse. The road follows the Gya River down to
the Indus at Upshi, from where it is plain sailing to Leh, past the Indus valley
! # $
villages of Karu, Stakna, Thikse, Shey and finally the Tibetan village at
Choglamsar, before entering the town.
Transport Facilities
The J&K State Road Transport Corporation (J&K SRTC) operates deluxe and
regular buses between Srinagar and Leh, with an overnight halt at Kargil. Taxis
are also available at Srinagar and Leh for the journey. Groups can charter deluxe
and A-class buses from the J&K SRTC at Srinagar. On the Leh- Manali route, J&K
SRTC and H.P. Tourism operate deluxe
and ordinary buses. The bus journey
between Leh and Manali takes about 19
hours or two days, with an overnight
halt in camps with basic facilities, at
Serchu or Pang.
Tips Taxi
Air Travel
The flight route to Leh presents the visitors with a spectacular panoramic view of
snow-capped ranges spread out below, and the thrill of identifying particular
landmarks. The twin peaks of Nun and Kun stand out high above the others. Tso-
moriri lies intensely blue among bare brown hills. The Zanskar River snakes
through the mountains, and one route of flight takes you directly above the Zanskar
valley, with villages and gompas clearly visible. Far to the northwest, the giants of
the Baltistan Karakoram dominate all the other peaks and ranges. Indian Airlines
operates regular scheduled flights to Leh from Delhi, Chandigarh, Jammu and
Srinagar. Jet Airway, a private airliner, also operate daily flights between Delhi and
Leh.
! (
Tips Avion
L'ALLER
S'il fait beau*, tous les jours depuis Delhi et tous les deux jours depuis Chandigarh; et quand
la situation le permet depuis Srinagar.
Le prix : 117 Dollars (plus 50 Dollars de bakchich si l' on n'a pas quelqu'un sur place qui prenne
le billet à l' avance). Aux bureaux d' Indian Airlines, il n'
y a jamais de place avant 15 jours. Les
agences de voyages proposent des billets à 117 dollars pour 2 semaines plus tard, et pour le
lendemain avec 50 dollars de bakchich.
Le vol : 1h30 avec un survol de l' Himalaya d' une beauté époustouflante en hiver et un
atterrissage acrobatique.
Le départ est programmé pour 7h. L' embarquement commence 2 h avant et il vaut mieux ne pas
être en retard car les candidats en liste d' attente sont nombreux et présents.
*Le ' s'il fait beau'
, n'est pas un canular, mais la réalité : La descente entre les sommets
himalayens et le vol dans la vallée de l' Indus jusques et y compris l' atterrissage se font à vue.
L'été, à cause de la mousson et l' hiver à cause du gel, les vols sont souvent reportés ou
annulés.
(Les prix sont ceux de 2002)
LE RETOUR
Il faut absolument penser à confirmer son retour le plus tôt possible après son arrivée. Si l'on
n' a pas de billet de retour il est très peu probable d'
en avoir un avant fin Septembre.
En 2002, une nouvelle compagnie, Jet Airways, dessert le Ladakh. La qualité de ses services
fait l' unanimité des passagers.
Le vol : 1h30 aussi beau dans ce sens, surtout en hiver.
Le départ est programmé pour 8h, et peut se faire dans l' après midi ! C'est l'
avion de Delhi qui
fait l' aller et le retour.
Il faut absolument connaître le rituel des bagages enregistrés : Après le dépôt et l' étiquetage du
bagage au moment de l' enregistrement, il est emmené devant la salle d' embarquement côté
piste. Une fois en salle d' embarquement, chaque passager doit sortir et venir reconnaître son
bagage, qui sera alors transporté dans la soute de l' avion. Les bagages "non reconnus" ne sont
pas embarqués ! NB : Ceci est valable pour tous les aéroports indiens.
Internal Transport
The cheapest way to travel within the region is by public buses, which operate on
various routes according to fixed time schedules. However, the most comfortable
and convenient, though expensive, mode of travel is by taxis, which are available
for hire on the basis of fixed point-to-point tariff. For visits to the newly opened
areas of Nubra, Changthang and Dah-Hanu, it is necessary to engage the services
of a registered / recognized travel agency for making all requisite arrangements
including internal transport. Detailed information about bus schedules, taxi tariff,
travel agencies, etc. can be obtained from the tourist office. For the current taxi fare
to various tourist destinations inquire at the Tourist Office. For hiring taxis contact
President/Secretary, Leh Taxi Union, Telephone No. 252723/ 253039.
Leh offers many kinds of accommodation to suit almost every pocket and
preference. Most of the hotels are family-run establishments and, therefore, service
is more personalized than professional. Hotels are classified into A, B,C and
! (
D/economy categories while guest houses are divided into upper, medium and
economy class. Tariff for A category hotels generally include all meals, offering a
choice or combination of Continental, Chinese and Indian cuisine, with one or two
local fares thrown in for variety.
During the peak tourist season i.e. early June to mid-September, it is advisable to
book hotel rooms in advance. By late September, hotel rooms are easily available
as the tourist rush declines. However, tourists planning winter trips may have to
book accommodation in advance so as to ensure provision of heating
arrangements during the period of their intended stay.
For a detailed list of the registered hotels and the current tariff structure in different
categories of accommodation in Leh area, refer.
A number of tour operators and travel agents offer their services to the tourists.
These include local operators as well as representatives of national - level travel
agencies. Visitors are advised to look for the operator with the best service record
! (
because their inclusion in the list does not confer any official recognition upon them
or any recommendation. For a detailed list of these firms go to Travel Agencies
The main centre for health care in Leh is the SNM Hospital, which is well equipped
and staffed by specialists to handle all problems. Elsewhere in the region, there are
sub-district hospitals at block headquarters and medical dispensaries in major
villages, which are staffed by qualified doctors. In addition, services of the following
private clinics and associated facilities are also available in Leh:-
Kunfan Osting Clinic, Tele 53699; Consultant: Dr. Tsering Norboo, Physician;
Soway Clinic: Consultant: Dr. Tsering Norboo, Surgeon Specialist
Siachen Chemist: Consultant: Dr. Nurboo Tsering: Tele No. Res.: 53229/ 52758, 52329
Ladakh Medicate Chemists and Druggists: Consultant: Dr. Nurboo Tsering.
Indus Clinic, Choglamsar: S. Dawa Lonpo / Dr. Stanzin Punchok
Nurboo Optical, Chemdey Labrang, Near I.T.B.F Headquarters.
Alamdar X- Ray, Balkhang: Consultant: Dr. P.T Angchok.
Dr. Shoukat Ali, Gompa Complex. 1000 hrs to 1600 hrs.Ph 44088
Noble Medical Hall Lingshet Labrang 53865 9AM -10AM and 4PM - 6PM.
Meditation Facilities
Foreign Exchange
The State Bank of India and the J&K Bank have branches at various places in
Ladakh, with main branches in Leh and Kargil, where foreign exchange facilities
are also available. The State Bank of India also operates an extension counter at
the Tourist Information Centre located in the Dak Bungalow Complex, Leh. Some
hotels in Leh are also licensed to deal in foreign exchange, though these mainly
service in-house clients. There is no foreign exchange facility outside these two
towns.
! (
Communication
Leh and Kargil towns have worldwide direct dial telephone facility and there are a
number of public call offices operating in Leh town for the convenience of the
tourists. There is also a General Post Office and a Telegraph Office in Leh.
The State Tourism Department has its own wireless radiophone network linking its
offices at Leh, Kargil and Padum, with those at Srinagar, Jammu and Delhi. This
facility is mainly used to monitor the movement and welfare of tourists in the State.
It is especially useful in ensuring timely rescue arrangements for tourists falling ill
or injured in accidents.
! (
KARGIL
Introduction
The western parts of Ladakh comprising the river valleys, which are drained and
formed by the Himalayan tributaries of the high Indus, constitute Kargil district.
Prominent among these are the spectacular valleys of Suru and Zanskar, which lie
= &
nestled along the northern flank of the Great Himalayan wall. The smaller lateral
valleys of Drass, Wakha-Mulbek and Chiktan constitute important subsidiaries.
This region formed part of the erstwhile Kingdom of Ladakh. In fact it is believed to
be the first to be inhabited by the early colonizers of Ladakh, the Indo-Aryan Mons
from across the Great Himalayan range, assorted Dard immigrants from down the
Indus and the Gilgit valleys and itinerant nomads from the Tibetan highlands. Also,
being contiguous with Baltistan, Kashmir, Kulu etc. these valleys are believed to
have served as the initial recipients of successive ethnic and cultural influences
emanating from the neighbouring regions. Thus, while the Mons are believed to
have introduced north-Indian Buddhism to these valleys, the Dard and Balti
immigrants are credited with introducing farming and the Tibetan nomads with the
tradition of herding and animal husbandry.
About 15,000 sq. kms. in area, Kargil
district has an agrarian population of
approximately 120,000 people, who
cultivate the land, along the course of
the drainage system, wherever
artificial irrigation from mountain
streams is possible. About 85 % are
Muslims, mainly of the Shia sect,
Islam having been introduced to the
original Buddhist population around
the middle of the 16th century by
B A missionaries from Kashmir and
Central Asia. Their descendants,
locally titled Agha, are mostly religious scholars who continue to hold sway over
the population, even as the age-old traditions of Buddhist and animistic origin are
discernible in the culture. Many elements of the ancient supernatural belief
systems, especially many traditions connected with agricultural practices, are still
followed with subdued reverence.
Kargil town (2,704 m), situated midway between Srinagar (204 Kms) and Leh, (234
kms) on the Srinagar-Leh highway, is the second largest urban centre (approx.
8,000 inhabitants) of Ladakh and headquarters of Kargil district. A quiet town now,
in the past it served as an important trade and transit centre for the Central-Asian
merchants due to its unique equidistant location (about 200-230 kms) from
Srinagar, Leh and Skardo, all well known trading outposts on the old trade route
network. Numerous caravans carrying exotic merchandise transited in the town on
= &
their way to and from China, Tibet, Yarkand, Kashmir and Baltistan. Since 1975,
travellers of various nationalities have replaced traders of the past and Kargil has
regained its importance as a centre of travel-related activities.
= &
= B B
Kargil also offers some interesting walks through the suburban villages nestling
along the rising hillsides of theriver valleys. The best among these is the walk
towards Goma Kargil along a 2-km long winding road that passes through some of
the most picturesque parts of the town, offering breathtaking views of the unfolding
mountainscape as one ascends alongside a tumbling mountain stream. It is best
taken in the afternoon as the setting sun plays magic with the changing hues and
shades of the hills. A shorter walk across the bridge, over the Suru River, takes you
through the ancient village of Poyen, and up the Wakha-chhu valley.
A very good view of the tiered and terraced township, sweeping down the hillside
across the river can be had from here.
! & !
A stroll in the bazaar might lead to shops selling flint and tobacco pouches,
travelling hookahs and brass kettles, handcrafted items of every day use that find
their way into the marts as curios.
= &
The showroom of the Government Industries Centre has pashmina shawls, local
carpets and local handicrafts on display and sale. Apricot jam produced here is a
rare delicacy, while Kargil'
s famous dry apricots
can be purchased from the market.
This area is now open for foreign visitors up to
*
Dah village from the Khalsi side. However, Indian
nationals can also approach the area (with the permission of the local authorities)
along the Kargil-Batalik Road, which connects Batalik, Darchiks and Garkon
villages and leads onward to Khalsi, via the other Brokpa or Drokpa villages of Dah
and Biama, along the course of the Indus.
Getting There
The J&K SRTC operates regular buses (including deluxe coaches) between
Srinagar and Leh/Kargil. Taxis of all types, including 4-wheel drive vehicles, can be
hired at Srinagar and Leh, for visiting Kargil. Local buses, including mini coaches
for Mulbek and Drass, leave Kargil every morning and afternoon.
Sankoo, Panikhar and Parkachik are connected with Kargil by regular bus services.
The bus ride from Kargil takes 2 hours to Sankoo, 3 hours to Panikhar and about 4
hours to Parkachik. Rangdum is serviced by the buses proceeding to Padum,
which increases in frequency according to demand. Trucks plying on the Kargil -
Padum Road also offer a lift, in the cabin, for the price of a bus seat. Car and jeep
taxis can be hired from Kargil for visiting different places in the area.
Where to stay
Kargil: Hotel tariff in Kargil ranges from Rs. 100/- to Rs.2000/- per day depending
on the quality of accommodation and services offered, which range from barely
basic to reasonably comfortable, with attached bath and running hot water. Hotels
are classified into "A", "B", "C"/ Economy classes depending upon the standard of
the establishments and services available. Kargil also has two Tourist
Bungalows, which jointly provide 3 suits and 15 furnished rooms with proper
catering facilities. Tariff for the suites ranges between Rs.80/- and 120/-per day,
while for the rooms it is Rs. 50/- per day. Advance reservation can be sought from
= &
the tourist office, Kargil. There is also a circuit house with 6 furnished rooms.
These can be reserved through the office of Deputy Commissioner, Kargil. For list
of Hotels in Kargil goto List of Hotels of Travel Agents in Kargil
Mulbek/ Shergol: The Tourist Bungalow at Mulbekh, which has attached catering
arrangements, provides 4 furnished rooms at Rs. 50 /- per day. Dormitory
accommodation at much cheaper price is available with some guest houses
attached with the teashops located near Mulbek Chamba. Alternatively, tourists
can return to Kargil for the night. The Tourist Bungalow at Shergol also provides 4
fully furnished rooms at Rs. 50/- per day.
Drass: The Tourist Complex here provides furnished rooms and suites at Rs. 100/-
per day and rooms at Rs. 50/- per day. Advance reservation can be done through
the Tourist Office at Kargil or its branch at Drass. Some private hotels also provide
rooms equipped with basic necessities.
Supplementary Information
Banks: The State Bank of India (with money changing facility) and J&K Bank have
a branch each in Kargil.
Communication: Kargil has worldwide direct dial telephone facility, besides post
and telegraph offices. J&K Tourism operates its own wireless radiophone network,
connecting its offices at Kargil, Padum and Leh, with those at Srinagar, Jammu and
Delhi. This facility is mainly used to monitor the movement and progress of
adventure expeditions in the region and for arranging and coordinating rescue of
tourists in distress.
Health: The District Hospital at Kargil is fairly well equipped and staffed with
doctors. In addition, there are medical dispensaries at Drass, Mulbek, Trespone,
Sankoo, Panikhar and Padum, each headed by a qualified doctor and equipped
with basic healthcare paraphernalia.
= &
ZANSKAR
About 20 kms south-east of Rangdum stands the Panzila axis, across which lies
Zanskar, the most isolated of all the trans-Himalayan valleys. The Penzila pass
(4,401m) is a picturesque tableland surrounded by snow-covered peaks.
>
As the Zanskar road winds down the steep slopes of Penzi-la to the head of the
Stod valley, the majestic " Drang-Drung" glacier looms into full view. A long and
winding river of ice and snow, "Drang-Drung" is perhaps the largest glacier in
Ladakh, outside the Siachen formation. It is from the cliff-like snout of this
extensive glacier that the Stod or Doda tributary of the Zanskar River rises.
+ ! ! +
It remains inaccessible for nearly 8 months a year due to heavy winter snowfall
resulting in closure of all access passes, including the Penzi-la. This geographical
isolation and the esoteric nature of Buddhism practised here have enabled its
inhabitants to preserve their identity, so that to-day Zanskar is the least interfered
with microcosms of Ladakh.
>
Closer observation of the lifestyle evokes admiration for
a people who have learnt to live in perfect harmony with
the unique environment.
Sightseeing in Zanskar
+ D
Once the capital of the ancient kingdom of Zanskar,
Padum (3505 m) is the present-day administrative centre of Zanskar Sub-Division
of Kargil district. Its older section, comprising of inter-connected adobe houses and
several high-rise chortens, surround a boulder-strewn hillock, site of the erstwhile
palace and fort.
The new, upcoming township is fast encroaching upon the cultivated expanse, and
a small market is coming up along the newly built road. With a population of nearly
2000, Padum can be described as the most populous settlement of Zanskar, which
is otherwise a very scarcely inhabited valley.
@! ! B ! 9
A B
+
>
The nearest site is a set of ancient rock carvings on a huge boulder near the bank
of the Lung-nak river, just below the old township. These date from the 8th century
and provide epigraphic evidence that the region was under the influence of Indian
Buddhism since ancient times. The Stagrimo monastery, with about 30 resident
lamas, clings to a tree-covered ridge above the old town, at an hour's uphill walk
along flower-strewn green hill slopes.
+ A B
Across the expanse of cultivation lies the old village of Pibiting, dominated by its
hilltop monastery, which is built in the shape of a chorten or Stupa.
Sani
This picturesque village is 6 kms west of Padum, on the road to Kargil. The main
attraction here is the castle-like monastery, which unlike other monasteries of
Ladakh, is built on level ground. By legend its origin is associated with Kanishka
(Kushan ruler of 2nd century AD) on account of the Kanika Stupa, which stands in
the backyard of the walled complex. The main building comprises a huge multi-
columned central prayer hall housing an array of statues of popular Buddhist
divinities and Kargud-pa high lamas, while the walls are covered with frescoes and
adorned with Thangkas. The most interesting frescoes, however, can be seen in a
small, neglected chapel, at the back of the main building whose walls are adorned
with stucco murals depicting landscapes and floral designs based on the life of
Padmasambhava. Immediately outside the monastic complex is an old cemetery
surrounded by a ring of ancient rock-carvings, which reflect Indian artistic influence.
Sani is also associated with the famous Indian Yogi Naropa, who is said to have
sat in meditation for some time under the Kanika Stupa. This site is now occupied
by a small room housing a veiled bronze figure of the Yogi, which is unveiled once
a year in late July on the eve of the Naro-Nasjal festival. People from all over
Zanskar valley participate in this festival during which lamas from Bardan
Monastery perform masked dances as ritual offering.
>
Karsha
Karsha can be approached from Padum by the 9 km long link road, across an iron
bridge over the Stod river. It can also be approached directly from the Tungri
bridgehead along a 17-km link road that branches off from the Kargil-Padum road
at Tungri, about 12 kms before Padum.
>
Stongdey
Zangla
Situated 35 kms further ahead of Padum in the northern branch valley of Zanskar,
Zangla was ruled by a titular king till his death about two decades back. The old
castle, now in ruins except for a small chapel, occupies a hill overlooking the
desertic valley below. Nearby is an old Buddhist nunnery worth a visit to observe
the austere lifestyle of the small community of nuns. An old monastery situated in
the nearby village of Tsa-zar, midway between Stangdey and Zangla, has
exquisite frescoes that should not be missed.
Zangla is the take-off point for the Padum-Lamayuru and the Padum-Markha treks,
as well as for the '
Chaddar'trek over the frozen Zanskar river to Nimu, which
becomes feasible only during the middle of the winter.
Bardan
>
The large assembly hall, around which all
other structures are organised, contains
beautiful statues of Buddhist divinities and
small stupas in clay, bronze, wood and
copper. Perched atop a rocky crag rising
vertically from the Lungnak riverbed, Bardan
falls right on the trekking trail to Manali.
Nearby is the smaller monastery of Muney,
also worth a visit for appreciating its art
treasures.
+ !
Phugthal
Zongkhul
The other spectacular cave monastery of Zanskar, Zongkhul falls on the Padum-
Kishtawar trekking trail, just before the ascent to the Omasi-la pass begins. Built
like a swallow'
s nest on the rock face in the Ating gorge, the monastery is
>
associated by legend with the famous Indian Yogi, Naropa, who is believed to have
used for meditation the two caves around which the monastery has been
developed. A footprint on a stone near the ingress of the lower cave is highly
revered as that of the yogi. The frescoes on the cave walls are very old and reflect
a high degree of artistic achievement. These are believed to be the original murals
executed by Zhadpa Dorje, the famous scholar-painter of Zanskar who was active
in the same monastery about 300 years ago.
Supplementary Information:
Getting There
The 240-km long Kargil-Padum road remains open from early July to mid-October.
The J&K SRTC operates a "B" class bus service between Kargil and Padum. But
tourist groups can charter deluxe buses to visit Zanskar, including sightseeing
within the valley.
Travel tips :
Zanskar experiences drastic fluctuations in the daily temperature even during the
height of summer. While the days are pretty warm, even hot at times due to the
desert effect, the evenings can become quite chilly and require additional clothing.
It is advisable to be prepared with a pullover and a down jacket. Other essential
items include a sturdy pair of walking shoes (with strong rubber or synthetic soles
for grip), a good sleeping bag and a pair of woollen socks or some thick cotton
socks. It is also essential to bring along a good quality tent if one intends to travel
or trek around by oneself, and a good rucksack for back packing. It is also
important to carry provisions from Srinagar, Leh or Kargil if a longer tour of the
adjoining villages is intended.
Tourist Information
The main centres of tourist information in Ladakh are the J&K Tourist Offices at
Leh & Kargil; the Kargil office also has a branch at padum (Zanskar). These offices
help tourists prepare detailed itineraries to suite different pockets, preferences and
time-frames. Tourists going on climbing expeditions, hard trekking, white water
rafting etc. are advised to keep the nearest Tourist Office informed of their travel
plan and routes:-
Leh
Dy. Director Tourism, Leh-(Ladakh) 194101
Tel: 01982-252297, 252095
Kargil
Tourist Officer, Kargil (Ladakh) 194103
Tel: 01985-232721, 232266 Fax: 01985-232266
New Delhi
201-203, Kanishka Shopping Plaza,
19, Ashoka Road,
>
Tel: 23345373 Fax: 23367881.
Mumbai
25, North Wing, World Trade Centre,
Cuffee Parade, Colaba, Tel: 22189040.
Fax: 22186172.
Kolkata
12, Chowringhee,
Tel: 22285791. Fax: 22281950.
Chennai
II Floor, 36/36-A
North usman Road,
Tel/Fax: 044-28235958
Ahmedabad
Airlines House, Lal Darwaza,
Tel/Fax:25503551.
Hyderabad
5th Floor, Left Wing,
Chandra Vihar Complex, M.J.Road,
Tel/Fax: 24734806.
or write to
>
Prime Attractions of Ladakh.
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List of Registered Hotels & Guest Houses in Leh Area
A Class
Name of Hotel Capacity Location Telepne E-Mail / Website
9
Thongsal (24 Dbl.) Yurtung 252735,
252227
B Class
C Class
9
Kangla (8 Dbl.) Old Road 252506
D Class
Guest Houses
Upper Class
9
White Lotus (2 Sgl. 8 Dbl.) Yurtung 253352
Medium Class
Economy Class
9
Lhasa (8 Sgl. 1 Dbl.) Choglamsar -
9
Hunder Moonland (4 Dbl.) Hunder(Nubra) -
(Note-The following tariff was fixed by the authorities for the year 2002-2003.)
Type of accommodation
B-Class
9
01 Double Room 1550/- 1300/- 1050/- 950/-
C-Class
01
Double Room 1000/- 800/- 600/- 525/-
D-Class
Upper Class
Medium Class
Economy Class
02 Single - - - 100/-
9
List of Hotels, Travel Agents, Excursion Agents In Kargil
B'Class Hotels
1 Greenland Main Bazar 22 Double bed rooms Nil
Near Taxi
2 Tourist Margina 22 Double bed rooms 32381
Stand
ECONOMY Class
1 Crown Near Public Park 14 Double bed rooms 32243
2 Ruby Near Taxi Stand 08 Double bed rooms 32343
3 Shashila Main Bazar 04 Double bed rooms Nil
9
RESTAURANTS IN LEH
Description: walking thought the streets in Leh, i met a wonderful lady and she invited me to have a
nice tea at her place. it was a wonderful occassion to see a typical Leh house inside!.
There were a hight, narrow stairs, and up there are the main rooms, very warm, full of carpets,
photograps, and it was full of light!
we were watching pictures of her wedding (the typical Ladakhi "hat" full of turquoises)and her family,
she was very nice. I tried the salted tea, made with butter yak and salt! an expirience!
Type: Bakery
Description: The German Bakery... not "real" food, but still... a place worth going. Much as I like Indian
food, sometimes the rich combination of spices was too much for m... my belly screamed for something
blander. I found all I needed at the German Bakery
Favorite Dish: Cakes... delicious, sweet, yummy cakes. But the real best was the Yak cheese: just buy
some, add a roll of bread... and you have made yourself a most delicious sandwhich
Prices: less than US$10
Comparative Price: less expensive than average
Customer Satisfaction: A Great Experience.
Address: library road
Directions: around the corner from Main Bazar road
Best know for German Bakery products, Very good continental and Chinese cusines. The kinda place
where you sit in the sun, meet fellow travelers. 2-3 $ for a complete meal.
BADHSHA INN
Good Indian Mughlai cusines about 2-3 $ for a complete meal for one person.
AMDO RESTAURANT
Well known for Curry in a Hurry and Tandooris. (Hay! I used to run this restaurant....bar and barbecue
that time...)
? !
DREAMLAND RESTAURANT:
Indian, Chinese and Tibetan cusines. One of the well furnished restaurant.
ZOMSA
Spic n Span
Type: Other
Description: Fresh Lime sodas in the garden.
Tibetan Kitchen
Monalisa.
dont miss at all.....
Type: Diner
Prices: less than US$10
Comparative Price:
about average
Customer Satisfaction: Satisfied.
Address: monalisa, chanspa road, leh...
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Links
http://www.jktourism.org/cities/ladakh/index.html
http://leh.nic.in/
http://ladak.free.fr/ladakest/html
http://www.jetairways.com/
http://www.pugmarks.com/d-india/index.htm
Travel Health Online https://www.tripprep.com
" (