Bulletin of the Chemists and Technologists of Macedonia, Vol. 23, No. 1, pp.

19–28 (2004)
GHTMDD – 435 ISSN 0350 – 0136
Received: March 10, 2004 UDC: 677.027 : 075
Accepted: April 30, 2004
Original scientific paper

STRUCTURAL CHARACTERISTICS OF COTTON KNITTED FABRICS AFTER

ENZYMATIC AND ALKALINE SCOURING

Biljana Mangovska, Goran Dembovski, Igor Jordanov

Faculty of Technology and Metallurgy, The ”Sv. Kiril & Metodij” University,
Ruger Bo{kovi~ 16, P.O. Box 580, MK-1001 Skopje, Republic of Macedonia
e-mail: mangova@ereb1.mf.ukim.edu.mk

Dimensional, pilling and abrasion properties of plain interlock, interlock 6:1 and single jersey fabrics were
tested after enzymatic and alkaline scouring, bleaching and dyeing as well as after several launderings in domestic
conditions. Structural characteristics of knitted fabrics after different ways of finishing such as loop shape factor,
cover factor and density were calculated. Enzymatic scoured bleached and dyed knitted fabrics have improved soft-
ness, higher thickness, better abrasion resistance, smaller tendency toward pill formation and structural characteris-
tics almost the same as alkaline scoured, bleached and dyed.

Key words: enzymes; scouring; bleaching; cotton; fabrics

INTRODUCTION

Apparel knit fabrics are normally prepared
and dyed in exhaust equipment such as winch dye-
ing machine and jets. Scouring, prior to bleaching
and dyeing is usually done in an alkaline process
by boiling cotton in sodium hydroxide. This proc-
ess is rather time consuming and requires large
quantities of chemicals, energy, and water. Addi-
tionally, the alkaline effluent requires special hand-
ing. Alkaline scouring at high temperatures for a
long period of time followed by bleaching can
abrade the fabrics and create an undesirable dam-
age and change on the fabric surface. The surface
is often fuzzy or in severe cases followed by pill
formation.
In the last few years there were several inves-
tigations about the possibility of replacing the alka-
line with a more environmentally friendly bio-
scouring process. Different classes of enzymes
were investigated such as pectinases, cellulases,
lipases and proteases but the best results were ob-
tained with pectinases [1–5]. Degradation of pectin
by the pectinase enzyme facilitated the removal of
the cuticle components. Therefore pectin is be-
lieved to function as cement in the fiber’s outmost
layer.
Various parameters, such as concentration of
enzyme, temperature, pH of the bath, bath ratio
and the level of agitation influenced the enzyme
activity. For alkaline pectinase Bio Prep 3000 L
were determined in our previous work [6]. The
main conclusion was that in general, the alkaline
scouring could be replaced by bioscouring. The
interaction between alkaline pectinase and the sur-
face of the substrate was tested on carded ring-
spun, worsted ring-spun and rotor spun yarns in the
form of cones or hanks [7]. Enzymatic scouring of
yarns in a cone forms and hanks, independent of
spinning process, was fallowed by lower weight
loss, better uniformity and twice lower pollution of
effluent than the alkaline one [8]. Knitted fabrics
made of enzymatic scoured yarns had a higher
weight, softness and stitch density and a lower pill-
ing tendency than the fabrics made of alkaline
scoured [8–9].
This study was undertaken to evaluate the
structural characteristics of tubular knits after the
bioscouring, bleaching and dyeing processes, in
winch and jet dyeing machine. The dimensional,
pilling and abrasion properties were studied and
compared to traditional alkaline scouring.
20 B. Mangovska, G. Dembovski, I. Jordanov
EXPERIMENT PART
Weft knitted tubular fabrics of various struc-
tures made of combed ring-spun 100 % cotton
yarns were processed under same conditions and
T a b l e 1
Parameters of greige weft knitted fabrics
Fabric designation Fabric Structure
Single Jersey 1 Plain
Single Jersey 2 Plain
Interlock 6:1 Striped Interlock 6:1
Interlock Interlock Plain
Interlock striped structure was processed by
setting 6 knit 1 miss arrangement of the needles of
the one needle bar, which resulted in one-sided
vertical stripped effect. Finally, a set of two inter-
lock and two plain weft knitted fabrics of the same
fiber type, same yarn count and similar fabric
weight were obtained.
Plain interlock, interlock 6:1 and single jersey
1 fabrics were processed in a winch dyeing machine.
The alkaline scouring was done in the bath with liq-
uor ratio 20:1 with 1 g/dm3 wetting agent Wetol NF,
2 g/dm3 surfactant Romapal 1496, and 3.2 g/dm3
NaOH. The fabric was loaded into the bath at 20 oC.
The bath was heated to 98 oC and the alkaline scour-
ing lasted for 60 min. Bleaching was done in the
same bath. The bath was cooled to 60 oC and
0.5 cm3/dm3 stabilizer Bystabile LF, 11 cm3/dm3
50 % H2O2, 0.11 % optical brightening agent
Tuboblanc HA-PP and 0.11 % Tuboblanc COL
were added. The bath was heated to 98 oC and the
fabrics were bleached for 60 min before dropping.
The scoured and bleached fabrics were rinsed at 80
o
C 10 min, twice at 60 oC 10 min and cooled
10 min.
Alkaline scouring and half bleaching of single
jersey 2 fabrics were done in jet. The liquor ratio
was 20:1 and the bath contained: 1g/dm3 wetting
agent Lavotan DSU, 1 g/dm3 NaOH (pH 10), 0.5
g/dm3 Contavan ALR and 1 cm3/dm3 50 % H2O2.
Bleaching was done 30 min at 98 °C. Half
bleached fabric was rinsed twice at 70 oC for
10 min, once at 40 oC for 10 min and finally neu-
tralized to pH 7.
subjected to a various finishing and laundering
treatment. The details of weft knitted fabric pa-
rameters are given in Table 1.
Yarn Count Fabric weight (dry relaxed) Machine gauge
tex g/m2
20 127 28
20 135 28
14 175 24
14 176 20
Plain interlock, interlock 6:1 and single jersey
1 fabrics were bioscoured 30 min at 55 °C in winch
dyeing machine in the liquor ratio 20:1 and the
bath that contained 1 g/dm3 Wetol NF, Na3PO4 (pH
9), 0.666 g/dm3 Bio Prep L (alkaline pectinase)
(Novozyme). 0.5 cm3/dm3 sequester Heptol ESW
was added and the material treated for 10 min at
the same temperature. 3 g/dm3 NaOH, 5 g/dm3
Bystabile LF, 0.11 % Tuboblanc HA-PP, 11 Tubo-
blanc COL, 11 cm3/dm3 50 % H2O2 were added,
temperature raised at 98 oC and bleached for 60
min. The rinsing process was the same as in the
case of alkaline scouring and bleaching.
Bioscouring and half bleaching of single jer-
sey 2 fabrics were done in jet. Parameters were the
same as in whinch dyeing machine. Half bleaching
was done in the same bath.
Single jersey 2 fabric was dyed with reactive
dye. The fabric was treated with 1 g/dm3 Dispergal
WD, 10 min at 40 oC, 0.15 % Bezactive blue
HERM was added, and the fabric treated 30 min,
30 g/dm3 NaCl added, again treated 30 min, and 5
g/dm3 Na2CO3 added, temperature raised at 60 oC
and treated for 30 min. The fabric was rinsed twice
at 70 oC for 10 min, then soaped at 98 oC for 20
min and again rinsed.
The fabrics were immediately dried. The fab-
rics dyed in winch dyeing machine were dried
open-width on pin tenter with over feed and stabi-
lized at 160 oC. Single jersey 2 fabric dyed in jet
was dried in the tubular drier and the compactor as
a finishing step.
Bull. Chem Technol. Macedonia, 23, 1,19–28 (2004)
 Structural characteristics of cotton knityted fabrics after enzymatic and alkaline scouring
Testing methods
All fabrics were inspected for uneven bleach-
ing and dyeing problems that may have occurred.
The greige fabrics were evaluated for weight,
stitch density and thickness. The finished fabrics
were tested as received for weight, stitch density,
thickness, Berger Whiteness for scoured and
bleached fabrics, visual rating of hairiness, pilling
and abrasion resistance. All scoured and bleached
fabrics were washed with detergent at 60 oC in
domestic washing machine and flat dried. Before
the laundering cycles the square of 300 × 300 mm
was drawn. Changes in the original area were cal-
culated after the fifth laundering cycle followed by
drying and conditioning. Two specimens of each
sample, washed in separate loads, were tested.
Wale and course density were measured using
a magnifying glass; ten measurements for each
dimension were made at different places on the
knit fabrics. The mean values of courses/cm and
wales/cm were then calculated and the product of
these means was used to determine the stitch den-
sity of the sample, which is usually considered to
indicate shrinkage.
To evaluate the surface appearance of the fab-
rics, a visual rating system was used. The visual
rating scale was as follows:
1. Very Severe Pilling
2. Severe Pilling
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
The results of measurements of weight, stitch
density, thickness and Berger whiteness of enzy-
matic and alkaline scoured knits are given in Table
2. To obtain good wettability of the material for
subsequent bleaching and dyeing, the removing of
the impurities during scouring is necessary. Alka-
line scouring was done in the presence of NaOH,
wetting agent and surfactant at 98 oC. Such a
treatment tends to remove the non-cellulose mate-
rial by turning pectin into sodium pectat, proteins
into soluble sodium salts of different amino acids,
solubilizes the ash and certain proportion of ligni-
fied substances and almost completely removes the
seed coat fragments. Parts of cotton proteins in
turn of protoplasmatic residues, that are thought to
cause cotton coloration, are hydrolyzed which re-
sults in higher degree of whiteness.
Pectinases break down the pectin in the cuti-
cle of the cotton and thereby assist in the removal
of waxes, proteins, oils and other impurities during
Glas. hem. tehnol. Makedonija, 23, 1, 19‡28 (2004)
21
3. Moderate Pilling
4. Slight Pilling
5. No Pilling.
A fuzzy rating was developed using the fol-
lowing fuzzy rating system:
1. Extremely Fuzzy
2. Considerably Fuzzy
3. Noticeably Fuzzy
4. Slightly Fuzzy
5. Not Fuzzy.
Shrinkage was determined by measuring the
samples before and after washing and the percent-
age area shrinkage was calculated as:
Sa = S11 + S12 – (S11S12)/100 (1)
Sa is area shrinkage (%), S11 widthwise-linear
shrinkage (%), S12 lengthwise linear shrinkage (%).
To evaluate the resistance to abrasion, the
fabrics were subjected to 20 000 rubs, material to
material, which is of commercial interest. The knits
were tested for abrasion resistance using the uni-
versal wear tester Rubster (Metrimpex) of 5 N
load. The number of cycles for the whole appear-
ance was followed.
The bleaching effects were characterized as
Berger whiteness measured on the spectrophoto-
meter Datacolor.
extraction. During this process part of the waxes
and seed coat fragments remained on the cotton
surface, which is the reason why enzymatic
scoured cotton, has lower value of Berger white-
ness.
Enzymatic scoured fabrics bleached with hy-
drogen peroxide, did not contain seed coat frag-
ments and showed lower whiteness than alkaline
one (results of half bleaching of single jersey 2,
Table 2). Bleaching in the presence of the optical
brightening agent resulted in obtaining fabrics of
the same whiteness as the alkaline scoured and
bleached (Table 2). Enzymatic scoured and
bleached knits had improved softness.
For each fabric type of the given stitch length,
as the finishing process progresses, the wale den-
sity increases, whereas there is little change of the
course density (Table 2). As a result of the com-
plete removal of cotton impurities, followed by
higher stiffness of the yarn [6], after alkaline
22 B. Mangovska, G. Dembovski, I. Jordanov

scouring and bleaching, the increase in wale den- than after enzymatic. Alkaline scouring and
sity was higher than after enzymatic. Stitch density bleaching of knits were characterized with a higher
increased from 11 to 30 %. The increase is 4 to 7 decrease of fabric thickness than enzymatic.
% higher after alkaline scouring and bleaching

T a b l e 2
Dimensional Properties of Greige and Finished Knit Fabrics
Wales Courses Stitch density loops Fabric thickness Weight Whiteness
Samples
cm cm s/cm2 mm g/cm2 (%) Berger

Single jersey 1
Control 12.33 18.77 230.07 0.598 126.8 21.37
Enzyme scoured 14.66 19.33 283.37 0.598 151.3 38.96
Enzyme scoured bleached 15.66 18.66 292.21 0.589 147.3 120.02
Alkaline scoured 16.00 18.00 288.00 0.576 150.2 54.71
Alkaline scoured bleached 16.33 19.33 315.60 0.561 147.8 119.90

Single jersey 2
Control 11.00 19.66 216.26 0.680 135.1 19.27
Enzyme scoured half bleached 14.33 18.66 267.39 0.697 158.0 69.15
Alkaline scoured half bleached 14.66 17.33 254.05 0.626 145.2 75.11
Enzyme scoured half bleached dyed 14.00 18.33 256.60 0.604 138.8
Alkaline scoured half bleached dyed 12.66 19.00 240.54 0.610 158.2

Interlock 6:1
Control 13.13 16.00 210.08 0.969 174.9 19.17
Enzyme scoured 14.73 15.33 225.80 0.896 185.1 35.87
Enzyme scoured bleached 16.63 15.00 249.45 0.899 197.2 123.82
Alkaline scoured 15.70 14.30 224.50 0.870 187.2 54.43
Alkaline scoured bleached 17.16 15.30 262.50 0.857 190.6 128.03

Interlock plain
Control 10.00 19.30 193.00 0.905 175.9 21.25
Enzyme scoured 12.66 16.66 210.91 0.803 191.2 34.58
Enzyme scoured bleached 13.66 16.60 227.50 0.820 183.4 125.55
Alkaline scoured 13.33 17.66 235.40 0.882 205.4 54.84
Alkaline scoured bleached 15.66 15.00 234.90 0.803 197.2 128.57

The values of weight, thickness, stitch density
and Berger whiteness after five launderings are
given in Table 3. During all wet treatments as well
as laundering, cotton fibers swell about 40 % by
volume, longitudinal swelling accounting for only
about a 1–2 % increase in fiber the length. This
markedly anisotropic swelling behavior is ex-
plained by the fact that the crystalline, microfibril-
lar structures in cellulosic fibers are not penetrated
by water. Swelling therefore occurs only between
microfibrillar structures and consequently their
orientation in the fiber determines the swelling ani-
sotropy. During this process in knitted cotton fab-
rics the shape and orientation of the loops change

Bull. Chem Technol. Macedonia, 23, 1,19–28 (2004)

 Structural characteristics of cotton knityted fabrics after enzymatic and alkaline scouring 23

as the fibers swell and relax towards their mini-
mum energy conformation. The loops usually be-
come rounder in shape causing shrinkage in the
wale direction, especially when the fabric has been
previously dried under tension. In order to release
the stresses imposed by bending twisted yarns into
loops, the loops themselves tend to twist out of the
plane of the fabric. This causes shrinkage in the
course direction and often produces significant
differences in twist level in the two legs of the
knitted loops. Course density after laundering, in-
creases 7.5 % for single jersey 1, around 8 % for
interlock 6:1 and is almost unchanged for the inter-
lock plain. Stitch density also increases 27 % for
enzymatic and 22 % for alkaline scoured and
bleached single jersey 1.20 and 19.5 % for inter-
lock 6:1 and 26 and 25 % for interlock plain. In-
creasing of the fabric thickness and weight fol-
lowed laundering.

T a b l e 3
Dimensional properties of knitted fabrics after five launderings
Wales Courses Stitch density loops Fabric thickness Weight Whiteness
Samples
cm cm s/cm2 mm g/cm2 (%) Berger

Single jersey 1
Control 12.33 18.77 230.07 0.598 126.8
Enzyme scoured 15.30 20.30 310.59 0.597 161.5 66.62
Enzyme scoured bleached 15.60 20.30 316.68 0.588 160.9 104.02
Alkaline scoured 15.00 20.00 300.00 0.587 159.16 81.02
Alkaline scoured bleached 14.60 20.30 296.38 0.573 159.10 105.39

Single jersey 2
Control 11.0 19.66 216.26 0.680 135.1
Enzyme scoured half bleached 12.60 19.30 243.18 0.627 143.4 82.04
Alkaline scoured half bleached 14.00 18.30 256.20 0.600 151.56 86.87

Interlock 6:1
Control 13.13 16.00 210.08 0.969 174.9
Enzyme scoured 16.10 17.00 173.70 0.921 223.2 67.62
Enzyme scoured bleached 14.90 17.60 262.24 0.913 207.7 111.59
Alkaline scoured 15.03 18.00 270.54 0.914 207.7 85.94
Alkaline scoured bleached 15.10 17.30 261.23 0.902 199.1 113.82

Interlock plain
Control 10.00 19.30 193.00 0.905 175.9
Enzyme scoured 14.60 19.00 277.40 0.880 222.3 67.30
Enzyme scoured bleached 14.00 18.60 260.40 0.860 217.6 112.45
Alkaline scoured 14.60 18.30 267.18 0.890 225.8 87.13
Alkaline scoured bleached 14.60 17.60 256.96 0.840 214.2 116.01

Comparing the results from Table 3 it can be weight than the alkaline scoured and bleached
concluded that enzymatic scoured, bleached and ones. An increase of whiteness on enzymatic and
laundered knit fabrics have higher thickness and alkaline scoured fabrics after five launderings is

Glas. hem. tehnol. Makedonija, 23, 1, 19‡28 (2004)

24 B. Mangovska, G. Dembovski, I. Jordanov

due to the bleaching and optical brightening com- Abrasion resistance, dimensional changes and
ponents in the washing detergent. The decrease in virtual rating after finishing and after five launder-
whiteness of the bleached fabrics did not depend ings are presented in Table 4.
on the way of scouring.

T a b l e 4
Abrasion resistance, dimensional changes, visual rating pilling and fuzziness
Abrasion resistance Shrink. Visual rating pilling (1)
o
/hole (%) and fuzziness (2)
After finishing After 5 launderings After finishing After 5 launderings
(1) (2) (1) (2)
Single jersey 1
Enzyme scoured bleached 2558 1682 –11.54 5 5 4 4
Alkaline scoured bleached 1612 1273 –4.5 4 4 3 3
Single jersey 2
Enzyme scoured half bleached 20 000 (no hole) 2934 7.6 5 5 4 4
Alkaline scoured half bleached 20 000 (no hole) 1614 –3.1 4 4 3 3
Interlock 6:1
Enzyme scoured bleached 12 227 3005 14.4 5 5 5 5
Alkaline scoured bleached 1572 1500 19.63 5 4 4 3
Interlock plain
Enzyme scoured bleached 12 278 3458 7.6 5 5 4 4
Alkaline scoured bleached 1678 1733 –3.1 4 4 3 3

Alkaline scoured and bleached knit fabrics
showed low resistance to abrasion, the holes
showed up at 1572, 1678 and 1612 abrasion rubs
for interlock 6:1, interlock plain and single jersey
1, respectively. The number of rubs after five laun-
derings was similar. Removing the cuticle in an
alkaline scouring process followed by bleaching at
high pH resulted in a decrease of the DP of cotton
[10] and higher degree of damage. Enzymatic
scoured and bleached knit fabrics showed higher
resistance to abrasion. The best results were ob-
tained on interlock 6:1 and interlock plain over 12
000 rubs and 2558 for single jersey 1. But after 5
launderings abrasion resistance dropped on 3000
rubs for interlock and 1682 for single jersey 1.
During the washing cycles with the detergent that
contained bleaching agents, TAED, additional
damage occurred resulting in lower resistance to
abrasion but still twice higher on enzymatic
scoured and bleached fabrics than on alkaline
scoured and bleached ones. Half bleached knit fab-
rics showed the same behavior after laundering.
The visual surface pill rating of enzymatic
scoured knit fabric after finishing was 5. Lower
visual pill ratings were found on the alkaline
scoured and bleached fabrics 4. After five launder-
ings enzymatic scoured and bleached fabrics were
rated as 4 while alkaline scoured and bleached fab-
rics as 3. All alkaline scoured and bleached fabrics
had visual fuzziness rating of 3.
The ratio of fabric constants kc/kw gives the re-
lationship between the course and wale density i.e.
the ratio between the loop width and length, which
is called a loop shape factor [11]. This factor gives
information about the geometry of the loop. Fig. 1
and 2 represent loop shape factor values of dry re-
laxed (D), enzymatic scoured (ES), enzymatic
scoured and bleached (ES+B), alkaline scoured
(AS) and alkaline scoured and bleached samples
(AS+B) before and after laundering.

Bull. Chem Technol. Macedonia, 23, 1,19–28 (2004)

 Structural characteristics of cotton knityted fabrics after enzymatic and alkaline scouring 25

Interlock 6:1 Interlock Plain The cover factor represents a measure of fab-
Single Jersey 1 ric tightness and is expressed as a ratio of the yarn
2.00
count square root and the stitch length. Weft knit-
1.75 ted fabrics of the higher cover factor have tighter
1.50 structure. The plot Fig. 2 shows a cover factor val-
ues relating to the type of treatment for interlock
k /k

1.25
6:1 interlock plain and single jersey1 samples.
1.00
a)
0.75 Interlock 6:1 Interlock Plain
1.80 Single Jersey 1
0.50
D ES ES+B AS AS+B 1.70

K / tex1/2mm–1
1.60
a)
b) 1.50
Interlock 6:1 Interlock Plain
2.00 Single Jersey 1 1.40
1.75 1.30
1.50 1.20
kC/kW

1.25 D ES ES+B AS AS+B

1.00
0.75
Interlock 6:1 Interlock Plain
0.50 Single Jersey 1
1.80
ES ES+B AS AS+B
1.70
K / tex1/2mm–1

1.60
Fig. 1. Loop shape factor of enzymatic and alkaline coured
1.50
and bleached samples before (a) and after laundering (b)
1.40
1.30
It is noticeable that dry relaxed fabrics reach
higher loop shape factor than the finished ones. 1.20
Compared to other samples, the interlock plain ES ES+B AS AS+B
possesses the highest value of the loop shape fac-
b)
tor. The high value of this factor could suggest
widthwise shrinking, which is confirmed in the Fig. 2. Cover factor of enzymatic and alkaline scoured and
case of the interlock plain. After finishing the loop bleached samples before (a) and after laundering (b
shape factor value drops for all structures. Sug-
gested values for stable weft knitted fabrics are
There is a slight rise of fabric cover factor af-
about 1.2–1.3. However, a broader range of this
ter scouring and scouring and bleaching for enzy-
factor is 1.18–1.53 [12]. So the interlock plain and
matic and alkaline treated fabrics compared to the
the single jersey1 attain expected loop shape factor
dry relaxed one. The cover factor values of single
values, while interlock 6:1 has lower values than
jeresey1 were higher compared to the interlock
expected. After 5 repeated cycles of laundering
fabric. Both interlock fabrics have cover factor
there is a less difference of the loop shape factor
values of about 1.4, which is expected for weft
according to the way of finishing all samples (Fig.
knitted fabric. The cover factor of single jersey1 is
1b). There is no substantial difference of loop
about 1.7, that is somewhat higher than expected,
shape values between enzymatic and alkaline
but is still inside the expected values for this kind
treated samples, which suggests that all the sam-
of structures (1–2 tex1/2mm–1) [11]. Regarding the
ples have similar geometry regardless of the way
kind of treatment there is no remarkable difference
of finishing.
between enzymatic and alkaline treated fabrics be-

Glas. hem. tehnol. Makedonija, 23, 1, 19‡28 (2004)

26 B. Mangovska, G. Dembovski, I. Jordanov

fore and after five repeated cycles of laundering. modulus of interlock 6:1 interlock plain and single
The comparison of cover factor values of enzy-
Interlock 6:1 Interlock Plain
matic and alkaline treated scoured, half-bleached 26 Single Jersey 1
and dyed single jersey2 fabrics, shows that the type 25
of treatment does not affect the fabric cover factor, 24
and almost all treated samples obtain cover factor 23
values of around 1.54 (Fig. 3a). This remains the 22
same after five repeated cycles of laundering (Fig.

δ
21
3b). 20
19
1.60 18
Single Jersey 2
17
–1

1.55
K / tex mm

D ES ES+B AS AS+B
1.50
1/2

jersey of different finishing mode.

1.45
a)
1.40
Interlock 6:1 Interlock Plain
D

27 Single Jersey 1
+H

+H
B+

B+
ES

AS

H
+

+
ES

AS

25
a)
23
1.60
δ

Single Jersey 2 21
1.55 19
–1
K / tex mm

1.50 17
1/2

ES ES+B AS AS+B
1.45
b)
Fig. 4. Linear modulus of enzymatic and alkaline
1.40 scoured and bleached samples before (a)
ES+HB+D AS+HB+D and after laundering (b)

b)
Fig. 3. Cover factor of enzymatic and alkaline scoured half
bleached and dyed samples before (a)
and after laundering (b)
Compactness or fullness of the weft knitted
fabric could be expressed through several coeffi-
cients such as linear modulus, square modulus and
volume modulus. These coefficients express filling
of the empty space in the fabric, i.e. space that is
occupied by the stitch or space between neighbor-
ing stitches. The linear modulus of the fabric (δ) is
expressed as a ratio between the stitch length and
the yarn diameter. This coefficient determines
physical and mechanical properties of the fabric
such as density, stretchability, elasticity, tightness,
thickness and weight. Fig. 4 represents linear
Both interlock samples obtain linear modulus
of about 24 and 25, which is somewhat higher than
the expected values of 23 for the interlock cotton
fabric. Single jeresey1 has linear modulus of about
20, which is close to expected values of 21 for cot-
ton plain weft knitted fabrics [13]. So, all of the
structures obtain realistic values of linear modulus.
The same is true for laundered samples (Fig. 4b).
There is no significant difference of linear modulus
between the enzymatic and alkaline scoured samples.
Fig. 5 represents the linear modulus of enzy-
matic and alkaline scoured, half-bleached and dyed
single jersey2 fabrics, before and after laundering.
We can see that enzymatic scoured samples have
slightly higher values of linear modulus before
(Fig. 5a) and after (Fig. 5b) laundering than the
alkaline ones. All treated samples obtain a linear
modulus between 22.3 and 22.5, which is some-

Bull. Chem Technol. Macedonia, 23, 1,19–28 (2004)

 Structural characteristics of cotton knityted fabrics after enzymatic and alkaline scouring 27

what higher than the theoretical of 21 suggested for where again alkaline scoured, half-bleached and
the cotton plain weft knitted fabric. dyed fabric retains the higher density (Fig. 7b).
24 0.28 Interlock 6:1 Interlock Plain
Single Jersey 2
23 Single Jersey 1
0.26
23

ρ (g/cm3)
0.24
22
22 0.22
21
0.20
D
B

D
B
D

+H

B+

B+
+H

0.18
+H
ES

+H
AS
ES

AS

D ES ES+B AS AS+B
a)
a)
Interlock 6:1 Interlock Plain
Single Jersey 1
Single Jersey 2 0.28
23
23 0.26

ρ (g/cm3)
22 0.24

22 0.22

21 0.20
21 0.18
20 ES ES+B AS AS+B
ES+HB+D AS+HB+D b)
Fig. 6. Density of enzymatic and alkaline scoured and
b) bleached samples before (a) and after laundering (b)
Fig. 5. Linear modulus of enzymatic and alkaline scoured half
bleached and dyed samples before (a) and after aundering (b) 0.27 Single Jersey 2
0.25
ρ (g/cm3)

0.23
The density of the fabrics is calculated from 0.21
fabric's weight and thickness. The plot in Fig. 6a 0.19
represents changes of fabric density against the 0.17
0.15
type of finishing treatment before (a) and after (b)
laundering.
D

B
D

D
+H

+H
B+

B+
ES

AS
+H

+H

As expected, fabric density rises after finish-

ES

AS

ing all knitted structures. Alkaline samples (inter-

lock 6:1 and single jersey1) show higher density a)
than enzymatic ones. On the contrary, the interlock 0.27
Single Jersey 2
plain structure shows higher density after enzy- 0.25
matic scouring than after alkaline one. However,
0.23
ρ (g/cm3)

regarding scouring and bleaching, the same sample

has higher density after alkaline bleaching. In gen- 0.21

eral, alkaline scoured fabrics have a higher density. 0.19

After laundering all samples increase their density. 0.17
The interlock plain sample reaches almost the same 0.15
density regardless of the type of finishing, while ES+HB+D AS+HB+D
alkaline scoured interlock 6:1 has lover density
compared to enzymatic one (Fig. 6b). b)
Fig. 7. Density of enzymatic and alkaline scoured, half
In the process of scouring and half-bleaching bleached and dyed samples before (a) and after laundering (b)
(Fig. 7a) the enzymatic and alkaline samples reach
almost the same density. Regarding the process of
scouring, half-bleaching and dyeing, the alkaline
scoured sample shows a higher density than the
enzymatic one. This is not changed after washing,

Glas. hem. tehnol. Makedonija, 23, 1, 19‡28 (2004)

28 B. Mangovska, G. Dembovski, I. Jordanov
CONCLUSIONS
Enzymatic scoured and bleached knitted fab-
rics have improved softness, lower stitch density,
higher thickness and almost the same whiteness
compared to the alkaline scoured ones.
After several launderings, enzymatic scoured
and bleached knitted fabrics have higher thickness,
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[1] M. Hartzell, Y. Hsieh, Enzymatic scouring to improve
cotton fabric wettability, Textile Res. J., 68, 233–241
(1998).
[2] Li Yonghua, I. Harding, Treating cotton with cellulases
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[3] Li Yonghua, I. Harding, Enzymatic scouring of cotton,
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Rezime
STRUKTURNI KARAKTERISTIKI NA PAMU^NI PLETENINI PO ENZIMSKO
ILI ALKALNO IZVARUVAWE
Biqana Mangovska, Goran Dembovski, Igor Jordanov
Tehnolo{ko-metalur{ki fakultet, Univerzitet „Sv. Kiril i Metodij“,
Ru|er Bo{kovi} 16, p.fah 580, M.K-1001 Skopje, Republika Makedonija
Klu~ni zborovi: enzimi; izvaruvawe; belewe; pamuk; pletenini
Dimenzionalnata stabilnost, pilingot i posto-
janostite na abrazija se sledeni kaj interlok, inter-
lok 6:1 i desno levi pamu~ni kulirni pletenini po
enzimskoto i alkalnoto izvaruvawe, belewe i boewe
kako i po nekolku perewa vo ma{ina za perewe vo
doma{ni uslovi na rabota. Presmetani se struktur-
nite karakteristiki na pleteninite kako {to se
higher weight, better abrasion resistance and
smaller tendency toward pill formation.
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dyed knitted fabrics have almost the same struc-
tural characteristics.
[7] I. Jordanov, B.Mangovska, Enzymatic scouring of yarns
for towels, 1st Internatioal Textile, Clothing & Desing
Conference – Magic World of Textiles, Dubrovnik, 2002,
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Textiles, Dubrovnik, 2002, pp. 301–305.
faktor na formata na kotelecot, pokrivniot faktor
i gustinata. Enzimski izvarenite, belenite i boe-
nite pletenini imaat zgolemena mekost, pogolema
debelina, podobri otpornosti na abrazija, pomala
tendencija kon sozdavawe na piling i sli~ni struk-
turni karakteristiki so alkalno izvarenite,
belenite i boenite pletenini.
Bull. Chem Technol. Macedonia, 23, 1,19–28 (2004)