Alligatoring - lots of wide patterned cracks in the paint film, resemblig alligator scales.

Usually caused by: multiple coats of oil based paints that have become brittle with age; topcoat
not bonding to a glossy undercoat; insufficient drying time between coats; or a hard coating over
a soft primer.

 Blistering - paint bubbles indicating loss of adhesion. Usually caused by: trapped moisture;
painting during high temperatures; using oil paints on damp surfaces; high humidity during
drying time; painting warm surface in direct sunlight; or painting over heavy chalk.

 Blocking - two painted surfaces sticking together when pressed together, such as doors and
windows. Usually caused by pressing newly painted surfaces together before completely dry;
excesssive paint; or recoat before the first coat is dry.

 Burnishing - spots of increased sheen where paint is rubbed. Usually caused by using flat
finish in areas subject to heavy wear and soiling; repeated spot washings using abrasive
cleansers; or objects rubbing against painted surface.

 Caulking Failure - loss of protective seal due to loss of initial adhesion and flexibility.
Usually caused by filling roo large an opening; wrong type of caulk; aged non-acrylic caulks; or
prolonged contact with water.

 Chalking - excessive, heavy powdering. Usually due to natural weathering; interior paints
being used in exterior applications; over-thinning; wrong product selection.

 Checking/Flaking - aging dried paint getting hairline cracks that eventually crack to the
surface. Usually caused by: poor surface preparation; old oil-based paint that becomes brittle;
applying paint too thin; delamination of unprotected wood; or substrate cracking underneath.

 Coalescence Void - paint not forming a continuous film when surface temperature is too
cold. Usually caused by: painting when the air or surface temperature is below 50°F.

 Dirt Staining - excessive collection of dirt and other debris. Usually caused by: air pollution
and flying dust

 Efflorescence - crusty, white salt deposits leached from masonry or mortar as moisture
passes through. Usually caused by: excessive moisture; inadequant venting of interior moisture
laden areas; pH level too high; or excessive lime in concrete mix.

 Fading - early loss of colour usually from direct sun exposure. Usually caused by: paint
colour that isn't light fast; overtinting; using interior grade paint outdoors; or tinting white paint
not intended for tinting.

 Flashing - uneven gloss with shiny or dull spots on painted surfaces. Usually caused by:
improper or lack of priming of porous surfaces; poor painting techniques; painting over fresh
paint or primer before it's dry; uneven film thickness; drying during excessive high/low
temperatures.
 Flow/Leveling Failure - excessive brush or roller marks causing non-uniform surface.
Usually caused by: using wrong type of roller or brush; poor painting techniques; repainting
partially dried areas; or painting non-primed surfaces.

 Foaming/Cratering - excessive bubbling that leaves craters or depressions in the paint film.
Usually caused by using wrong roller; rolling paint too fast; using old paint; painting over
unprimed porous surfaces; or painting when the temperature is over 90°F.

 Frosting - salty looking discoloration. Usually caused by: protected areas not receiving
cleansing rains; dark colours over paint or primer using excessive extender pigments.

 Galvanized Metal Peeling - an adhesion loss of the paint due to inadequate surface
preparation. Usually caused by no or improper priming; improper surface preparation; improper
choice of paint; not removing rust, oil, etc.; or painting too soon after cleaning metal surface.

 Gloss Loss - accelerated deterioration of the top coat causing rapid luster loss, usually in
reds, oranges and yellow paints. Usually caused by: use of gloss alkyd or oil based paint exposed
directly to sun; or thin paint film.

 Lapping - wet and dry layers overlap during painting. Usually caused by: inadequate stirring
and improper thinning; too much heat or wind during application; extremely porous surface; or
painting too large an area at one time.

 Leaching - blotchy glossy water soluble spots on latex paints. Usually caused by: painting in
coll humid conditions. If moisture collects on fresh paint before it has thoroughly dried, leaching
may appear.

 Mildew - areas of black, gray, brown spots, particularly in camp, shady areas. Usually
caused by: warm, humid conditions; poor air circulation and little sunlight; shrubbery planted too
close to building; painting over mildew without removal treatment; poor surface preparation; or
hidden moisture sources.

 Mud Cracking - deep irregular cracks in dry paint film. Usually caused by: applying paint
too thick; or allowing paint to build up in areas such as corners.

 Paint Incompatability - adhesion loss from top coat of latex over many layers of old alkyd
or oil based paint. Usually caused by: painting over 3 or more layers of alkyd or oil based paint
with a latex top coat; inadequate surface preparation; or not using a recommended top coat.

 Picture Framing - darker colour where ceilings, windows, doors and corner areas were cut-
in with a brush. Usually caused by: improper cutting-in technique using too much paint; not
maintaining a wet edge;or poor roller technique.

 Poor Hiding - failure of finish coat to cover previous coat. Usually caused by: not enough
paint; making severe colour change; wrong brush or roller; improper or no priming; or
overthinning the paint.
 Print Resistance Failure - marking of paint from weight of object. Usually caused by: not
allowing enough time for proper curing and drying of paint; applying finish coat before primer
has dried; or premature placement of weighty objects on painted surface.

 Roller Marks - stipple texture pattern from roller. Usually caused by: incorrect rolling
technique; excessive nap length on roller cover; overloading roller with paint; or painting over
slick surface without proper priming.

 Sagging - paint running down immediately after application. Usually caused by: inadequate
surface preparation; overthinned paint; applying paint too thickly; spraying with gun too close to
surface; painting when too cold or humidity is too high.

 Scrubbing Failure - excessive wearing away of paint film from repeated scrubbings.
Usually caused by: abrasive cleanser; using flat sheen paint in gloss sheen area; scrubbing before
paint has properly cured.

 Spattering (Roller) - a spray of paint droplets from roller cover a paint is being applied.
Usually caused by: economy roller covers; overloading paint on roller cover; overspreading the
paint; or wrong nap length of roller cover.

 Tannin Wood Staining

 Touch-up Failure - difference in colour and appearance between original and touch-up
paint. Usually caused by: poor technique; touching up with different batch number and
applicator; touching up at different temperatures; failure to reduce touchup paint by up to 25%.

 Wax Bleeding - migration of waxy additives used in reconstituted wood products to the
surface causing discoloration. Usually caused by: exposing hardboard to weather too long before
painting; not priming; using wrong primer; orinadequate paint film thickness.

 Wrinkling - rough, crinkled surface caused by drying interference and forming a wrinkled
skin. Usually caused by: applying paint too thickly; painting over insufficiently cured primer; or
painting during extreme hot or cool/damp conditions.

 Yellowing - gradual formation of yellow cast in aging oil based paints. Usually caused by
using alkyd or oil based paints in white or light colours; heat effect from stoves or heating ducts;
limited light exposure; or oxidation of oil based paints/varnishes.