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Step by step painting of Dwarf Hero Avatars of War

Model
mousekiller #16
Posted 16 March 2007 - 10:42 PM

●
Chapter 8: Loin Cloth

● Godlike
Ok, so this stage is probably the most fun, because it gives us a chance to add some variety to the miniature.
●
Now, eventually we will do some tatoos on the body which will be in blue, so to tie that in my main color for
Group: Members the loin cloth will also be blue. I like to paint my dwarfs with a scottish type background, so my complimentary
Posts: 1112 color for blue is white.
Joined: 19-February 06
The Colours:
Blue - (all Reaper Master Series except the first one)

1. Midnight Blue (Citadel Paints)
2. Ultramarine Shadow
3. Ultramarine Blue
4. Ultramarine Highlight
5. True Blue
6. Sky Blue
7. Pure White
White - (all Reaper Master Series except the first one)

1. Bestial Brown (Citadel Paints)
2. Stained Ivory
3. Yellowed Bone
4. Creamy Ivory
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5. Linen White
6. Pure White
Stage 1: Base coat of Midnight Blue on the loin cloth and on the straps in the front under the armour. Once
that is dry run a stripe across the bottom of the loin cloth with Bestial Brown. First picture.
Stage 2: Leaving the Midnight blue in the deepest shadows, paint Ultramarine Shadow. Second picture.

Stage 3: Ultramarine Shadow and a 50% mix of Ultramarine Blue. Work up the bends in the cloth, leaving the
deep fissures. Third picture.
Stage 4: Ultramarine Blue. From here on out it is just a case of feathering up as we have discussed in a
previous chapter. First picture.
Stage 5: Ultramarine Blue and a 50% mixture of Ultramarine Highlight. Second picture.
Stage 6: Ultramarine Highlight. Third picture.

Stage 7: Ultramarine Highlight and a 50% mixture of True Blue. First picture.
Stage 8: True Blue. Second picture.
Stage 9: True Blue and a 50% mixture of Sky Blue. At this point you should be concentrating the paint at the
very top of the folds. Third picture.

Stage 10: Sky Blue. Really start concentrating on the upper portions of the folds. First picture.
Stage 11: Sky Blue and a 50% mix of Pure White. Just the very tips of the highest portions of the folds.
Second picture.

Stage 12: Ok, at this point we are going to highlight that brown strip. Go over it with a 50% mix of Bestial
Brown and Stained Ivory. First picture.
Stage 13: Leave only the deepest recesses, go over the strip with Stained Ivory. Second picture.
Stage 14: Back to feathering. Stained Ivory with a 50% mix of Yellowed Bone. Third picture.
Stage 15: Yellowed Bone. Fourth picture.

Stage 16: Yellowed Bone with a 50% mix of Creamy Ivory. First picture.
Stage 17: Creamy Ivory. Second picture.
Stage 18: Linen White. Just on the extreme folds.
Stage 19: Pure White. Just on the high points of the extreme folds.

And here is the overall picture:

Next up will be the armour and jewels...
Chaos Undivided Blog

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MK AT CMON
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sam500 #17
Posted 27 March 2007 - 02:10 PM

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THIS SHOULD BE STICKIED in painting tips and tricks when the thread is complete!!!!
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mousekiller #18
Posted 07 April 2007 - 08:34 AM

●
Sorry for the delay...

● Godlike
Chapter 9: Gems, jewels, and armour
●
Ok, the gold jewelry and armour will be painted in the same manner as the weapons so I won't be going over
Group: Members
Posts: 1112 that again.

Gems, however, are a whole different story, and really easy.
Here are the colors we are going to need (all are Reaper Master Series):
0= Black
1. Red Brick
2. Deep Red
3. Blood Red
4. Bright Red
5. Phoenix Red
6. Fire Orange
7. Pure White
8. Future Floor Polish (or a shiny gloss)

Stage 1. Recoat all of the areas you plan to do with black. Picture one below.
Stage 2. Fill 3/4 of the gem in a moon shape with Red Brick. Picture two below.

Stage 3. Fill 3/4 of the red brick moon shape with Deep Red. Picture three below.
Stage 4. Fill 3/4 of the deep red with blood red. Picture one below.
Stage 5. Fill 3/4 of the blood red with bright red. Picture two below.
Stage 6. Fill 3/4 of the bright red with Phoenix Red. This should be about a sliver by now. Picture three below.
Stage 7. Fill just a small part of the phoenix red with Fiery Orange. Picture one below.
Stage 8. Add a white dot to the 1/4 black. Picture two below.
Stage 9. Finally, coat all of your gems with Future Floor Polish. This will give them that extra bit of shinyness.
You should wait until after you dullcoat to do this though, I have done it here just to show you the result.
Picture three below.

And here is the overall figure...
Next up, leather...

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mousekiller #19
Posted 09 April 2007 - 03:25 PM

●
Chapter 10: Boots

● Godlike
Ok, this one is pretty simple and went by pretty quickly.
●
The colours:
Group: Members
Posts: 1112
Joined: 19-February 06 Leather -
1. Scorched Brown (Citadel Paints)

2. Muddy Brown (Reaper Master Series)
3. Earth Brown (Reaper Master Series)
4. Leather Brown (Reaper Master Series)
Fur -
1. Scorched Brown (Citadel Paints)

2. Vermin Brown (Citadel Paints)
3. Vomit Brown (Citadel Paints)
4. Bubonic Brown (Citadel Paints)

For the leather:
Stage 1.
Apply a basecoat of Scorched brown over the entire boot, to include the fur area. Picture one below. You can
also reference this picture when we start the fur.
Stage 2.
Muddy Brown. Begin picking out the raised areas, leaving only the deepest creases and a small amount
between the leather portion and the fur. Picture two below.

Stage 3.
50% Muddy Brown and 50% Earth Brown mix. Begin highlighting the raised areas of the leather. Picture three
below.
Stage 4.
Earth Brown. Continue highlighting the raised areas, leaving the lower areas Muddy Brown. Picture one
below.
Stage 5.
50% Earth Brown and 50% Leather Brown mix. Continue highlighting the raised areas, leaving the Earth
Brown showing at the bottom of the creases. Picture two below.
Stage 6.
Leather Brown. Highlight only the very tops of the creases. Picture three below.

Fur -
Stage 1.
Scorched brown. Reference Step one for leather to see a picture, but this will be your base color.
Stage 2.
Vermin Brown. Pick out all the individual hairs with this color, leaving the deep parts scorched brown. Picture
one below.
Stage 3.
Vomit Brown. Highlight the tips of the hairs, about halfway down each strand. Picture two below.
Stage 4.
Bubonic Brown. Highlight the very tips of each strand of hair. Picture three below.
And, finally here is an overall update.

Up next, tattoos....

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fieldarchy #20

●
very nice.
● Goddess of Pastels and Nekkid Chicks

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Meg's Miniatures and Studio Art---> Currently taking commissions!
Become a fan! Meg's Miniatures & Studio Art is on Facebook!

Group: Members
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Joined: 24-May 05
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mousekiller #21
Posted 15 April 2007 - 11:53 AM

●
FA: Thanks Meg. Love your stuff by the way, so a compliment from you means a lot.
● Godlike
Chapter 11: Tattoos.
●
Ok, some of you may be a little disappointed with me on this chapter, but I couldn't bring myself to do an
Group: Members
Posts: 1112 elaborate tattoo, I just did not want to cover up any more skin than I had too. Plus, I am severely lacking when
Joined: 19-February 06 it comes to two dimensional art, I just don't have the talent to do intricate designs. So, what I did do was a
couple of runes that mirror the runes on the axe.
The coulours:
1. Dragon Black (Reaper Pro Paint)

2. Ultramarine Shadow (Reaper Master Series)
3. Ultramarine Blue (Reaper Master Series)
5. True Blue (Reaper Master Series)
6. Sky Blue (Reaper Master Series)

Stage 1. Darken in the design that you want with Dragon Black (or a suitable black color). In this case I have
gone with a simple design using the runes from the axe. Picture one below.
Stage 2. Using the Ultramarine Shadow, I have blocked in the black runes, leaving just a small amount of
black around the edges. Picture two below.
Stage 3. Using Ultramarine Blue, I have filled in the Ultramarine Shadow, leaving only a small edge showing.
Picture three below.
Stage 4. Using True Blue, I have hit only the raised areas of the tattoos. Picture four below.
Stage 5. Usine Sky Blue, very sparingly, I have hit all the corners and extreme raised areas. Picture five
below.

And an overall picture:
Ok, so not what some of you may have been expecting, but if you have an aritistic nature you may have still
learned something and can hopefully apply it with your abilities.
Up next, the ORC HEAD...

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mousekiller #22

●
Chapter 12: The Orc Head

● Godlike
Alright, a change of direction. We are going to paint that pesky little orc head that has been underfoot all this
●
time.
Group: Members
Posts: 1112 To begin, we will paint the skin.
Colours (all are Citadel Paints)
1. Dark Angels Green

2. Snot Green
3. Goblin Green
4. Scorpion Green
Stage 1: Dark Angels Green.

At this stage give the orc head a base coat of Dark Angels green. Picture one below.
Stage 2: Snot Green

Leaving only the deepest recesses, apply a layer of Snot Green. Picture two below.
Stage 3: 50% Snot Green and 50% Goblin Green mixed

Begin highlighting the higher areas at this stage. Picture three below.

Stage 4: Goblin Green

Further highlight, again working up the natural folds of the skin and the tips of the nose, ears, etc. Picture one
below.
Stage 5: 50% Goblin Green and 50% Scorpion Green mixed

Start hitting the really high highlights at this stage, especially the area around the neck. Picture two below.
Stage 6: Scorpion Green.

Final highlight, so make sure to limit this to only the highest portions of the orc head. Picture three below.
Alright, moving on to the teeth and the piece of neck bone sticking out of the back side of the head.
The Colours (all are Reaper Master Series paints)
1. Bone Shadow
2. Aged Bone
3. Polished Bone
This one is pretty easy, since they are so small I opted to do only three stages.
Stage 1. Bone Shadow.

Apply a base of Bone Shadow to the teeth and the piece of neck bone in the back. Leave a bit of black
showing (not too much though). Picture one below.
Stage 2. Aged Bone.

Highlight the teeth and neck bone, working your way up the teeth and bone. Picture two below.
Stage 3. Polished Bone.

Highlight even further, doing the tips of the teeth and the edges of the bone. Picture three below.
Ok, finally the tongue and eyes.
Colours:
1. Blood Red (Reaper Pro Paints)

2. Dwarf Flesh (Citadel Paints)

Stage 1. Blood Red.

Apply a base of blood red to the tounge and also to the area beside the neck bone where the had has been
severed. For the eyes, my trick is simple. Dip your brush into your water, wiping the brush against the
container to get rid of all the excess water. Then dip your brush (I use the 4/0 Kolinksy Sable Brush) into your
paint. Once you are ready, wipe the excess on a paper towel or the back of your finger and guide the tip of
the brush to the inside of the eye. It is ok if you are not precise, as long as you don't get it all over the place.
We are going to revisit the orc eyes in the next chapter when we do eyes. Picture one below.
Stage 2. 2/3 Blood Red and 1/3 Dwarf Flesh.

Begin highlighting with this mixture, leaving some of the blood red exposed. Picture two below.
Stage 3. 1/3 Blood Red and 2/3 Dwarf Flesh

Continue highlighting, moving down the tongue and more the the center of the meaty stuff in his neck. Picture
three below.
Stage 4. Dwarf Flesh.

Use this for the extreme highlights, particularly the upper edge of the tongue. Picture four below.
And finally, a full view.

Up next, eyes...
Stage

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Voladilk #23

●
Looking great! Keep up the great work. This WIP is fantastic!
● God of Ionising Radiation

BL AU004 - Victoria, Australia

WWVD?
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Group: Black Lightning

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Posts:
Joined: 12-January 06
● Reply
JoeGKushner #24
● Enlightened Posted 27 April 2007 - 07:30 AM

●
Group: Members Thumbs up. This is great stuff.

Posts: 484
Joined: 28-November 03
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mousekiller #25
Posted 05 May 2007 - 04:03 PM

●
Chapter 13: Eyes.

● Godlike
Ok, first and foremost, I want to apologize for the really crappy pictures. I just could not get them to come out
●
well.
Group: Members
Posts: 1112 So, first off, the colours. Pretty simple:
1. Walnut Brown (Reaper Pro Paints)
2. Linen White (Reaper Pro Paints)

Stage 1: Walnut Brown.

This is basically a touch up stage if you need it, darken in the area around the eyes. I use a 4/0 brush for this.
Stage 2: Linen white.

Ok, I use the 4/0 brush, dip it in water, then in paint, brush the excess paint off, then I brush the tip of the
brush against my fingertip to get a nice point. From here, I just apply the white in the areas that I want it,
leaving one small dark spot in the middle to represent the pupil. It may take a few applications, but the
patience is worth it.

Ok, using the 4/0 brush again and the same technique as above, I fill in the pupil until i am satisified.
Stage 4: Touch up.

If you need to touch up either the white or walnut brown, do so. Or, if you look at the model and are not
satisfied, go back in and redo them.
So, that is it for eyes. Again, sorry about the pic, but it was near impossible to get a decent one.


Night Goblin Blog
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mousekiller #26
Posted 05 May 2007 - 04:12 PM

●
Chapter 14: Colour the Base.

● Godlike
Ok, this chapter is actually a lot of fun.
●
The colours (all citadel paints except Linen White):

Group: Members
Posts: 1112
Joined: 19-February 06 1. Scorched Brown
2. Bestial Brown
3. Vermin Brown
4. Vomit Brown
5. Codex Grey
6. Fortress Grey
7. Linen White (Reaper Pro Paints)
Stage 1: Scorched Brown.

Ok, using an old brush, I apply a nice basecoat of Scorched Brown. You can leave some black peaking
through if you want.
Stage 2: Bestial Brown.

Same old brush, drybrush the entire base area. You can be pretty generous on your drybrushing, meaning
you can apply a bit of pressure to the brush.
Stage 3: Vermin Brown.

Continue drybrushing, same brush. Let up a bit on the brush though.
Stage 4: Vomit Brown.

Final brown highlight, so be stingy with it. Hit only the extreme edges, and be really light on the drybrushing.

Stage 5: Codex Grey.

Apply a generous drybrush (it is Ok to leave a little brown in some of the recesses) to all of the areas that you
want to look like rock.
Stage 6: Fortress Grey.

Drybrush the rock edges.
Stage 7: Linen White.

Really light drybrush (very light) to the extreme edges and high places of the rocks.

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mousekiller #27
Posted 05 May 2007 - 04:27 PM

Chapter 15: Adding Snow and blood.

●
Ok, this is a really simple process. For this job you will need the following materials:
● Godlike
1. Snow Effects (I use the one from Woodland Scenics)
●
2. Glue (I use Elmers)
Group: Members
3. Water
Posts: 1112 4. Eye dropper - not shown in pic.
4. Bottle Top
5. Bamboo Skewer (or similiar object, you want blunt end and one pointy end) - not shown in pic.
6. Red Ink (Reaper Master Series) - not shown in pic
Stage 1: Combine the ingredients.

Ok, take the bottle top and dip it into the Snow Effect container, filling the top about a quarter of the way or
less (all depends on how much snow you need). Then, squeeze some glue into the cap. Take the eye

dropper and get some water (about a quarter of the way on a small eye dropper) and add it to the mix.
Stage 2: Stirring the mix.

Use the blunt end of the bamboo skewer to stir the mix together. The consistency should end up being
somewhere between chunky and milky, if that makes any sense. I want small chunks, but I also want a little of
it to be milky. If the consistency is not to your tastes, add more of whatever you need. In this case, mine was
a bit to watery, so I used the back of my skewer and dipped it into the Snow Effect container, stirring it into the
mix.
Stage 3: Apply the snow.

Ok, using the pointy end of the skewer, add a small amount of the mix to the tip. Then, transfer it onto the
base. If you have to put it in a tight spot, set it on an open spot first, and slowly pull the snow into the tight
areas (i.e. next the the goblin head). Continue in this fashion until you are satisfied.
Stage 4: Apply blood.

Allow the snow mix to dry overnight. Then, mix some red ink and water together, it can be thick if you want,
but remember the thicker you let it be the more extreme it will look when you apply it. On this model, I added
some to the severed head piece, and (another reason I really like this snow) allowed the brush to drain where
the head met the ground. What happens with this snow is that it sucks the color into it, sort of like a sponge,
so in the center it is dark and on the outskirts it is lighter. I also added a few drops to the axe blades.

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MK AT CMON
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mousekiller #28
Posted 05 May 2007 - 04:35 PM

●
Chapter 16: Finishing touches.

● Godlike
Ok, lets finish this guy up, I think it has been long enough. So, what you are going to need is:
●
1. Walnut Brown (Reaper Pro Paints)

Group: Members
Posts: 1112 2. Dull Coat (I use Testors)

3. Future Floor Polish

Ok, you can use whatever color you want here, but I like to use a dark color. You want to paint the sides of
the base. Try not to use too thick of paint, or you may leave brush strokes.

Stage 2: Dull coat.

Give the base about 30 minutes to dry. Once it is, take it to a well ventilated area, and using the same
procedures that we did when we primered the model, you will apply the dull coat. If this is for game play, you
may want to add a gloss coat, followed by a dull coat as this will offer extra protection. I add to layers of dull
coat (about an hour between coats).

Stage 3: Future Floor Polish

Go back and hit the gems, the back of the severed neck, and anywhere you want to be shiny with the future
floor polish as we talked about in the gem chapter.


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mousekiller #29
Posted 05 May 2007 - 04:41 PM

Chapter 17: Be proud of yourself.

●
Ok, this chapter is all about being proud of what you have achieved. The way you can do this, is post your
● Godlike finished work on a forum like this one. Ask what people think, what improvements can be made for the next
●
mini (if you are a painter). If you are a gamer, get this guy on the table and have him crush your opponent.
Group: Members
Posts: 1112



And, of course, check him out at CMON: Slayer at CMON

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Step by step painting of Dwarf Hero - Reaper Message Board - Page 2

● You cannot start a new topic

Step by step painting of Dwarf Hero Avatars of War

Posted 16 March 2007 - 10:42 PM

Chapter 8: Loin Cloth

Blue - (all Reaper Master Series except the first one)

White - (all Reaper Master Series except the first one)

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previous chapter. First picture.

Stage 6: Ultramarine Highlight. Third picture.

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Stage 8: True Blue. Second picture.

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Stage 15: Yellowed Bone. Fourth picture.

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Stage 17: Creamy Ivory. Second picture.

Stage 18: Linen White. Just on the extreme folds.

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And here is the overall picture:

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Next up will be the armour and jewels...

Chaos Undivided Blog

Posted 27 March 2007 - 02:10 PM

Posted 07 April 2007 - 08:34 AM

Sorry for the delay...

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Gems, however, are a whole different story, and really easy.

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And here is the overall figure...

Next up, leather...

Chaos Undivided Blog

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Posted 09 April 2007 - 03:25 PM

Chapter 10: Boots

1. Scorched Brown (Citadel Paints)

1. Scorched Brown (Citadel Paints)

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For the leather:

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And, finally here is an overall update.

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Chaos Undivided Blog

Posted 12 April 2007 - 07:28 PM

● Goddess of Pastels and Nekkid Chicks

Become a fan! Meg's Miniatures & Studio Art is on Facebook!

Posted 15 April 2007 - 11:53 AM

1. Dragon Black (Reaper Pro Paint)

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And an overall picture:

Up next, the ORC HEAD...

Chaos Undivided Blog

Posted 24 April 2007 - 12:41 PM

Chapter 12: The Orc Head

1. Dark Angels Green

Stage 1: Dark Angels Green.

Stage 2: Snot Green

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