Professional Documents
Culture Documents
c h a p r c rl G^l[RrNc...3
ckpr.r 7 S oc(Nc.. rrt
. opposile Eds. cRrhfti'g
Chaprer2-SETRRTNG ..r9
MiKr_G R!.tsl|l
M^(Nc FLorN.Es 67
APP!NDIX
chiprrg-{orDrNc .. ..la7
I N D . X .... . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . r 0 4
Controlled
Crushing
A R T $ f * . ir
f Gathenng
c i r r ' d n g M e r h o d s . . . . .....l. GATHERTNG
BAsrcs
luomdiccnh.nng .. .. 5 G.1TI'EIINGMrlrioDs
sRb'lL'4 cdhEedsdrctng..6
rhrousLchannelsH,trd, milure,
itrlomad!. rnd onc kind oI ct s!.
gilne'ng ar nanda.d.stfth.d
tr
\i
lr!]r].dlgil]rtriri].]tr{.,f
ih.rarLh! f ) r rh o d
rfr L r n t r $ r u s r ' r t L ) ll u r r t r !
ru nu (FLr r 3) ,!sd |n rrbn.
LN.trIn !\rs) i'rl nx &!
i 0 r I 0 ! ! $ B
ebsbseqna|Ly3e]ned!.dch
L!lg!DlLl'!|,i,I]l![Ll(!lu
Ftsln2eah'lirgskbl,edb'3
bbnc extenstn anada b) wth aD
!" iJDnr trr,aJ.J!bL n ft!o !I
rh an d rrhdnh; hfk
'I
hrir rorr! snbocd.rndau. r\&r
]!L](uld.iPclnudm]1.|
SNGLE-EDGE "aa'nenrs Me'nods"o! pagel).
GATHFRlNG
sr4r.dr4r?.z/ge 8drrrlg
do6tr har a nortnecdgr rhe
drmrnndnrrfoldsftLr6.d rbn &c
srhsr,g {n.hs dinbnl and drs
rrparn tuoppdst..dgc{hich Fs 1e2 la)cath€inertud byhe
5nrcrhed smoo and$cd ni appNfuedgehEhEs|ayed|lal
and stai4hL (b) ruba stibhad inb a
ro oainutu a naqrhishl, sb]€d Figl2lslasEad.eead@b|r
dQ||ingh|MtadgawdMa ered.@ rubetuyedoE;, isit
dnt@red adoa:la) ared d tu
'h. sids b.gin ro ddg the ner.d (a) s6hed hta tu.hh tti6 Nhnh
.dsc ou oI :ltnncnr. rdo ouch
c{h&,!8dn roc r !ry.d.dgr
patln (c) a'*tirc @titu tEtd b
naledjr a .urv. lh{ociErcs,lik.
'abrcbeiwei6eg.derededs*
PRocEDURES
ro g c 'lr oppdrirt ed8s oI a
hns'h ot faLnicadip, $e Ploe-
dtrftsd.slnb€dIol.shglt.Jg.
NorEs €r VARTATToN5
dpposi.edsen:biltin8 ro archor
borr, grln{Ed cdss ntd Mlruh
'lrc,duscdloLdi h ! dn(nonal
6 ddemircd b),rllc,ndmrol
s:rhsine on th. oubide edse.
srh hrv€ dep fords,.ollkEd
1rcurd a cminr axis, lhd dimh
Lh a lrn ndDre1owaid rhe
outr edsc(rjs 1 29).ro sathq
'hr ouErcdsc,$c srip nur b.
ronsd rhrn rhecircunfercnrt or
'l
fi** ,.:."---"-.
\ \,-:
s.\1";;7
/:.
]%._:
: il:
r:..-,d..-*1
1,r'.;$$
i
2, Gahg a|l Jou'\il th. cdg!or fab. l,rfi hsd a subltl or hxnil.
ALL-SIDES nc lur lDm rh€sarknngF\({!,
GATHERINc mdlq fte gathendlctrgrlr sids slhfhs Lo,n drct.s
ber!(n turh6 or iid6 Lothe
Itn$h betr\en ftLRrdiokha q
hui.h.d srhrE on lourdinonfalr
suy lur or oudhedfrerndrerF
b|a|lfubpanddawfuldesb
ebp ftu nusltered jnctid.s
I
sh s heringd6dib6 .h€
rvc6. sd€ oI pufl sdh{in8 shtn
n beohA lie nglt side Dinple
lik poin6suroundcd by nli6s
Ioldsreplace rh. pufis Tne ft.
cinultr ontlbs on the backol rh.
rabtu an'l pmeed 6 dcdb.d ro!
pnfg{h€nns roi Pi.ned nir
grftedn3" $. dnplG exPud hro
J#as
lound:do! (ris. 1-15) (Rels to
'EdgertnGhbg for Rum6" @
, {,,9!'i'3 . ho Li(hrL'nrd
: :: l - :
. !./-,
3
'=,?a
)hei.
.i 11
rY.€i
.'fLn
) Shirring
SHRRING ,Iel nrrclinglin6 sp1adouL
ovd rh. shidng srcR Markthe
whengatheredoimu|rip|elwsol .hins lnrc on ih. nvcM 5ide
* &hingsM *nisht eds rhe ot $e fabricwirh a hbricrar.
d*Emsd ,a h PqErhrow5 hdld oi hghl) pns.d folds,
or dcp.nd on a sclins nKhinc
PRocEDLTRES
halv6.qmir.r'nat * lbr
nea{rcnenL lor th. shtrrcd mdchedto corespondingses
fsbri. to n ch. D.cide how
ro PrePaErh€tabrn lor gdhd-
'nB,.oY* tht mrl<.d lin6 wrh
gnhenng *ir.h.s shoulddB'
puy-slisLr, modmt, s.nd
srikhs. n.chin+seM *nisht
os. ro 6rim.re de hnsrh ot
sdthlag'oiztgzagsdthulgryd
nnshirrcd l:'bft n.eded 'd pro'
du.c th. desind lullncs b d. ''6*heringMerhodconpss.r).
shirrtd fabdc. muldply rhe E.
g.' dc*ultEmr by 'ne aEouDr
thnid. sdng. dr .od i onc.nd
.'4r"1]urq.ar!i!!\riirr
ridaiDah rbtra.iadarrhe.enrar
lffii,ji:rT.r'-rl]ntr
.b ? 5 srn4 !a!r*r dh rale
Norr5 a- VARiArroNs
L hh, r r F , r r r t . r r L r , f i \
::J' rr,5 orsrLnid srr.hn,a
,i{r g ( F , Bl r a n d( f r r b
-|]rlr( s't|fflbn!l]tG
\trh radnntrgrul!15
!Drorr{rrr)
dutuE! \1'.rr(0,D$ n'ir s
A v,iiahn dl puff.d3hnnng
I,ufl.d tin .nbtl|ishs lounds
sns a 4,and5 ae *e@t ean 6
|@nchellwhm|hgskeMTangb
fuq'hhoshj|d.gsalE||@
Iabri.:(1) Pns 'ht nm nlo{- sfuingafuysnaww'mwng
|hedescendi.g9lfua|rE9kewed
anG on rl'c longelgs unds
ncarh(2) r mesurd NcNrls
sF.!d dd alonerh! l.nsrhor rhe
tnp. nt h icrc$ tlr nnp.nd No tabn!hrar A full or pfli'l
srhcr dghrlr:(r) Rcducnuft dr
bncldwro rhesdh.Rd inFr
s.rions rd pdfi 'h. 'nr^rr,!s Lalti(Fg l lr) Aho sl'imrsth.
hLft,blnr&dch r Iold.ddg.s Fie.23. dsq heaw2pdb{6 al 6l'i. b :i- on chnmdlcd.ods n
F a foundarion, shapi,,EscsLLorcdireitu kp$ (se ris. 211) Rtsd eds,noFd 'h. !nd5oI rht sds o.
mdsph.nl tb. SiLhd'ngfbn .or
hg uDdoncburauowdr gnhcnfs
(FiB 2.3) shonenrhedjshnE
sr.v.d slii,irs rq 5asdt
Th. rcladonshLp
b{we! rolds ct@d J,irn,s i5sr End on
andreNso{ gadcrednndng
thangGfmo PrPlndiculai h dirg
ona|{htn shtn4 G sk$lrd Ntrhodt onFse 6) lht foldsRi.
rl.s.d bcNe! qns sdrh€d in aubidefudinchanng|so|k@an
-Ee
r€irt i n1:r{3,1!'rii aL nF ir
siii € rFdrt ie /r' oi,€rf f! tii !d n r
ild-?ri.'ni.G'r'lqr..4ot:'gil,t€
lia@'[tl!L:de!ll]xr]fi'
H T (,NC
,. srekhhcs.ndrpinrhcccs sd.hirs{nd'g(h.nng rrcceed.
PATTERN or lne pdn mjhiftd hbnc b r viiia'idB in rM spr.in8 rnd nr.B
SHTRRTNG pdd.dsu reaDd non\tuh ubnnsh r stithingPalnPm
m non hdd abd{€fi. shtiins. dua dir6q in rh. nli* or nsn'
-6brn automr a t 3hh€d wnh dd shtring sftdr lcnsthud kn-
the sathedngrod IonN ry a dsisn $on adjunnmG 'hd frodiry ftc
lqhftir,4ishde$ oI rhegithdns
NoEs & YARTATToN5 ,dd mort dhcGion Thc loo.\
gaLh.iingktion .an b€ maDually
PRoclDURES rar $!el npq6 of rhe dds! nnucd by inhihidns l!. hbft
on a enPle of dre d*Ei,rd labd
fron movhg aslly bw,fti rhc m.
to ddemic Gr .ppbpnaE nith de Io inft* fu1ln6s.Fm th.
lmcG rrd rGion sdrins ror &b' frbrc by holdingit do\r Nr'h i
ndc ssrheringand ro 6sc d.i,ll 6nss a ir emel36behind&r
sidcot G. I:bft 6 the o'n{ d.sign cfledrrss. Ihe p .n
n,y b. dt(ittrlt to lolow il rh. sth. dr labn! buikls up in b&k or the
2. rEce tne daign onrorhcrmns dng n t@ tull or th. sl. ol 'lc
3id. dl Ac hbn. $nh e hbnc d6ign is roo s@[ ro $tuk 'h.
Bcrusc or tlre d€dry nd .on
.ihc appli€ton, msure : eFple
pl.xi1) dr rh. e hcKt $n.hiD8,
]'\Niththegathdlgloo'ilu.h.drc pikrn- and mrandsjhired rab-
$. frehtn. (dc b "6a&dn's oI rh. fahric bcfoE ard aIt! a t{
shirrins of rh. pircm and .quib
hc m rcldivcly sron3 Dd i,t
Mdnods on pqqct), sdrh and norr4d prcredion rDmsR$.nd
qd 'hc hqd n*sumenb
s,$.r e.h ih€ o{ d; d6isn sqv
slo l ndppdg 'o $t&c plss M.4zln inirg is inrreded
Ioound pivorihc hbric on $e lns*d ot touoFiu a pdrcrd, 'hc rtittr ssbilizin8 mayte quiftil
nedlc Ihflr sunline dtEdon d€d8n EDd{s rr!.\ ron.id md
BsE a sby b rh! shnftd hbnc
€quiE ddj6'frd' h e6.d. h,.k*nr, ndcwiys, rcrcs' aM
lishL'o mod.nk ga$dns $ib riound,,ivdoping conlisurarione funak ro tiE sarherednirhrie
ot puck$. rolds. ard prlE 6
i )r qqqli,
irit rt.rr.
PATTERN
S H i R RN 6
rirj .icansod!rnqtrtokno@su4roioliddae,
4 d€'otr. E$!Ei iiir riff' fcrcii!n$roioonoi
@l/F0![dhsoE@nrtrfurdg@Ern!l!e
Supplementary
Fullness
mIry * g
; * , , .
J Mahingk"tfJles
RUFFLE
BAslcs
EDGEFrNrsHtN6FoR
RurFrEs
Do$led.?bn... .. ..
nune desigrE
. .. 56
+4
s LDtsh(h..dge lhetnqfta
b)€cddoublctdg.J n8s7 Lr{ of lirdrd rnmd or *dhq
rull.d doubh.e4ed
rurl]c. t7 lxr{ of fahnc,noronlyp}orc6d.
rdst or ,he nJne bur ?lsorfi.cr dr
onrrmktd [dg.
Ronqro{rro.kedEd$ng .+e
sinslc.srdtnLm.
Lnltitd sidslrcdscdrun6 .51
Pufirdsingledg.drume 52
pdites d tua nu,in rufll* (sare
14" thh)tu|Jth dnrcary @h
non unnnll,ngrunhdwnh.ur
ror.,dnuh, 1orhc.dsc.
r snip
Lrncol sdrhtd rhread ri. obviors Ftr 33 F6ins a sirde bb edse
on borl,sid.sorrh. rum.rwrl, orlj lcngl[ (Fig ] l) Arrfs.rhqiq tinish:la) P'wte thetufltdlip as
shawnlb) Fad at he tus e@ al
d{plr frinsdnm6 rm,lrostr
cDiird.'r'. nrl|r,riri,!fi ,rs
m,!tr o/rtrl,r't.'h. rid,rDI,rl A loldturish$rlt flo nsd$
R l., 'h. /.mq ot l/l. s,n0 t's or
PJdir{, ,fti 'Jr Pr i.ft?l rit4ir ddrbhdJar'ir Doublnedn5 body
ij,ft ol rr..pr,J,raio Icr dtu d h rht rlFk rumtRndhnLkio rlr
nor edsrfinrhB or a nrap ol rlr huDch.d snrr o'pl.n lolds! rhc
l-r-- J
.r. iodPri rris I t) orNr5
rrt
rd b n G i n o t h . r o r dt ( { f ?
tr' (5Nnr h iu{n€ \1d'h Iu Lh
L
1t
r \!,.; s;b;;;(:.-
t
lir no,shr nkht,l ,ro,rk lord
l rd r {r!h{rtd r0'
.ri mrs\trhoft $inrlis ik
.l{tJJb!bln(l.lh..igl.
N-€{s 1 si,sreroLdhinrnx
{d) G) 1\'tlltlg.]\nLrfN,|hol'l'
F a 316. Satrsrb@ d9n9s: (a)se\|ndturtt oEt he dt e@e tb) sewn
otet an eneehnned ah{ 2iszassrbhedptIatztior tr) sewhare, ) ktded
edqewth thetuastestbwarcethned aro sth sribhinq.td) se,n avetan
enqelundqaskFtle'nataawrhfu
stbhi@.te)s,.wnow a try, stashtsrbh,edsinsretddhen tut dk:!p.4
. A, ,heedeeoI sDrrelftr ln
lill b. rPPliqu€dto a toundi
rhc ends ol rufi6 rla mdrk
rhe mds of ru{nc rhr ldp widin FA 83. rwo na, the uppet iunb
rl'.Idundarod rab.icslould rpa
applhdasfub|he|abicbedge
or &n ,nro rlr. $pktuo! sEn
rhc lo,ring urs. dfu pd./ rii
3r(.€d3!d ljfr. disrl)4f in '
rull1cshru $nh a dorhlrd.frbri
rumesdr lrtirr ro [dgc rinBhtr$
fo! Rufi6" o! rasc11) Xrh.
bffi6€kegalhaingedgea|ke
.'lg.sdld'!n'n.nriP{cUloD
A nsr.,nrrr ru.t. hn . g u
ing dg. rhap.d ii ascalloPPr nnlhing,h. cdss bsdherfo!
rm carlrnng inighrns our lhe s.dc.ng lr rherune 5dp L cut
{i.hhyaPPLnrion rinenn'ghr Donlrrts$eIoLdarhrfioa.ie
|dg. Af,{ sih€nng ald aPnLi'-
loped ro rnd |l[ ilhdud| onsi rion.pull r. rwohltE dfrheruf.
nill!.ur inr rhegrhftrng.de. neap* ropoulrh.bodyorlh.
(Fis r-12).rra sinsLc{l,dLrutd. En€ (.ja 3-3t).Ruf[6lcs un
n curr nddtrblcdf,b.. Gd' ro f,(2 t.b) wid. frunclEeffodsr
'EdseFinishing foi Ru r.r' o! *pan.ng dr. h)rs DoublednJ.
prgc{4), rh€5tu[s.ar bc pultd 116ot .nsp [,bir ]" (5.h) $ c dr
6drt nlf e irh th! mor bnor?n.r
8n|a|heedga:tih'gaw'and
oP!nid3.
flj'ro andb*r $ rhe
ris. e ,!fltepat
t4 strate.sndn
.|Ech|hefofljel'enfubbpe|ed
@d. (c) ra tan ad: PDnhe staioht donqabdve6b6 tb) at the2ad-
wnlhednd@bhkthesbfu\'
{| aPdndb! orr4)..d rngt.
wh€n a rufr]c 6lfd d rar.d rdg.d rujl{ n,hrcunds rh€dm
(dr ro t4e Fhishins ror Run.!
nNc efid or hrllr dg.! rvo {
on paseti), .onou!ry lne floding i,oft rums. srhscd *piiard), b
.d8E.a! oPdon.shilc rltc.4. sil aYoidnsrl.d tdl& a' thl sdhered
houdlc lbh nrli3hr o a dmp.d
ourrimdmr.ngrs ed curus rt ' rh. orhtr \idr sarrrrd &g!5
Lris or Iacirs G ,pprolirii't bur ,nrdtdg. and iNn ro dr lourdi
r shDll codourcd noRnne.dge L Fie.e. (a)DaMhbrc itr.
rrt d6ind pftnle. corbur ft g s|np.0|he'highlganan|l
dry €d3€.w'rh.rl[ ga'j.ft3 edse norug cdg.ofrheupFinft pLqins.lb) s@tatins thes2thercd
16
ldnbmd. Lheooadngcdgt or 'he taFE wh ttu heb d 3 dowet.
rum€sdp ntuE shighl tor ssy
rPPftrion ot rhcdc'ftd .d3. {innh
reiFi}:oadlaJfo!ltci!,ili':nll!i'j.*
4ie"-!'lr rr i 1! i[x ! j r4r b]..,l
dE ! 1 ,- ri- M+ q.r :," rri.i/ i,i€--
I 3 ! " ( { ! ' q r . , . r l i r : 5 r Di , jn
sdrhin3lnc bclotr8a'n.dnBrErdr
'o $e silhoudG oI dr. 0e!t$ eds6
F4ful'Layeid|l@Irgedqsso|
ogd.i oprn,pulldo*n,andri.k
I
_ir.!rloai4 ^rq!!rs lt! 4.!d) __-,/ in;a;;;
'lldrL\trLlll.fi(lnDindl
: l
i€
ffi
-.-1*;,€r.
i!
\'1.e. :.-t:
16
q4i .-?i!
il!
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:
PLEATEDSINGLE- shighrgnh or dler,bh., Ftcins
OR DOUBLE- rllow,ncs tor the *leded t4. sdir6 ro€.'n{ iI mcsry (crs 'o
Iinish:For a nneb.dg.n rufilc, Fl&I2r onlege50) For, sngh
EDGEDRUFFLE Erq ,o n3. l 22 on psgeJ9: lor .ds.d rulle, aplt &e *ldd
r doublcedscdrumq afF b ds. llnisho on. longt4c or&e
- srip ofhbfr. redled in hnsrh
rumesbs rorr dNble-d3ednr
ry sl*mdc roldinsaidorud wid'
dkhli8 ,lons oie eds. or den de ,+.Toclcula& the lmglh nqnncd
.4kin'e €dseor ed8* of i dac tora rum. sdp plcd.dro rh. M,ikinsfirh r disaPp€fbg p.n
en rufrefdr h Esuhi oderry toldr b4d nssunnmr Mzk. , or dElk o! tnc nghrdde of th.
lolding gau8elioE a 5hdi,nrip
of paperha*€d M'n dob (6nn) to ,." (l rcn) ,In{, as
PRocEDtRrs pn pl,nn.d. slorg lne unfin
r. c6e i pk{ing snrngemenr (l.ltn) spa , 6 aprrepddc Ioi ishededgeroi i single.d8€dro{.
Ior li. mc Gig 3.aq) DKide pl.rtins dePrhand Inpl.ncnk
wherherfte lolds wttl be pN.d do! rh. doB indi.at plar
folds:lnc d$rr. bcNEn doB ph* rherumennp. *cuing
z. &lkr d.dgc 6ntshL\at{ill a{{, equ,lsple* d.pr\ countddE to
lh. to16arfte nod ,ge6blt, o( 'I agular plEtsprtg. Mrtchins nrthin. strhins. II the dfllr
drcple6 a to bEpK.d, in do6. told ino ]Ic chcm rL€n rdp it side or rh. iibht ldp,
€dsellirsh tnit wilLaaeptshsa m,ngcnenr Applythe follo{ hanl to@. pin dd hind bste
cr.ig (nra b "EdgeFinishins rhe loldsbcrorchachin. sri&h.
I-llJ
l.
Fiq.3.50'rofup]eabwhire
n^edan|hesLpgihdEdpola
sbdln*dleilNinbdb6|P6hil
lnldedbdxp]abdfuflbabmbly
.:t=;
4€-
( MahingFlounces
R4nrlra nEi+r lh. dudng
CTRCULAR
FLouNcE Ri?i,6 ojn .@ins ndrdtr oI /
Fig+lciblsdi!@inbh|eei@
cu@ bat hecffi4 thetuttdened edseat he raw
rhe,li{rnnce beNrtn rh. .n
ofrheloanng.dgth.rsa,
funlbalCina|cu@a|i1fu14'
c:LculaE rc l.nclh ot ft cir
.urar fnrine on the Pdrem:
ro slun. a llouc, smpL In. b, mdiG olrheou inedcii
cfid of &nrEr cdou6 6n nry cks (G) in F8. 4'3).cut our
the cinhr noun.. p{rcn
'hesn. in d.pdrandshghkn€d
hng'n fieappli€rim sn 4. ro srin{e rhe febncnquin
ne ror a Prdcurar cirdhr
I Tod6ft a d(uLr noun( psc noun . applidddn (Fis +4):
nen6, oncIor rh. n&!! oI lne
..nkl cnde and : *cond tor
f
t Afretlnishlneths lsrre edeedus
(r€ I xn s.! rk Lnuat 'hr
1|q([ioidtlnrl0u((qljJ
Fie 4.s L) rwo.ndat torn.a
s,ewrbseths lb) aDda?Pte wth
PRCJcEDUtE5
Lonih€{Jj'L[!!d4.f
rl,. i!{o ! r0\.m(| ha Ddr
- \ -
ha $t he lasredindsirtad hb
(, ir rr|5 r r3 + ro.iid
I
s slrl involeG inlom.d guca
rclk Paddd.E lor tlE qid.dine
fi {ill prcdua dishr nppLs,
node€k w!v6. or lavBi Iolds i!
dr flodrs .dg. ,ie .{n$sd r
sln.hhriHln c, r vholc lot.
sonsh4e in berw{n addiion
rlly, rh. chanden{ns of thc
inknd.d f1btu .nd dr finnh
applid ro rh. no:dns.+.lill
afccr rh€ rypEErc dI iny sn'ounr
ot flared rulln6! Id bdoi€ final.
nins a lonhll.d flonn.e pdtfr
rlonrh.poinron rh€*n.
, ,\
$ Pleating
PrtsingPrlats............ 39 . Hmd-Fo@.d Aaonlion PLEATBAsrcs
sehmins Fkr .nd hd.l . MiniA(ordronPledns... lll
fleG .... . ..........
.............s0 PRrssNc hEAr5
. (nife Pl.tu . Bd Pls6
Nor6 & \'.riarioB... .. . ....112
Prcclduro...... ..........
. .. . S1 6€ntid toor sonerrmB het,
nsn, rnd prG$r iE 6 muchs
psi dl plar prpennon * n*dle
Pl6r bpnikhinc . ......... 9, md rhnd ai othd dna, 3rah-
bs rinishd 'n. Jdb,Pr6dins I
pka.ng . ..........
........
9,t dErul am'sm.nL dI EUins rotds.
unddlays.......... .....94 Thc! mon ro pEdry rh. toltls
PeiL.rP1a8.... .............94 oI n't plnial ])leb db dElP,
lsrins"nd
.Ma dranpDpd $hs df
dE coturs on r rbh. Aftq hsdns
' se.In Pl.a6 .'.''.'.''.''',','',','',s3 lh. plar amnsmenr, , gdde
prusing d,h 5ten nek6 $. pE,
lmhly c6a For fi. ffnrl hsrd
pr6h3. s bud sud,e i5 doE
.m.idt fo! tal!. apptodons ftd
N..dlefom.d plc,rins .ns $e ffiw surtc of r nguLr h-
. IIF+Fold rnd a{r.Fold in8 bqd. PhpaEa abl. ropMd1
elefuqg',..'.'.'''''',','',',tt3p./r,-g-hy6 of btihk r d brels
covmd \1lh shding, undqDrd
sirh dutuun roir.lI sing i ngu-
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r carridc. Pkac... ............r03 i hbl. or ch.n ro strppd @fisns
Prc@dursfor b4 Pinch,
ToeE[ihPrinting.rnN.
ertridSrPlE6................101 ,[ piE,nd b3sds lnEds frcd
rhe fi6i snup of plac b b.
cobtetplas.. .. . ..........106 p6ed. Aense rh* pleib d! lnr
hxngiIg.oi,iEn8c'h.foldswl'iL€
phd,g rh€€ds$ ro x P.dd.d
Load iab pLnn'ngraclor rolds,ir
!ed!r( sddc t]t xEo8cmdtr b!
HfMMiNG F!,4T I
P,4nrrArPrE4rs
whci rrl!:hs lmgdrv 6bnc,
ronnirr nn PhaG,plRrtjoinins
ssn dn rsu Iolds,or cmrtEd
rh a{ d ifipdrh! hsh
fLA T TLEAIS
E-ilri
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L ! i n L n L dh n rhn Llffhrj
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lirlr rosdhrL b.'!.k (ri)
sid. rd ph (Ndr 'h{ r rL
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btr\*o'|dldsdplkdi.Nllnts
soirdivo (t rr rrs 6t
pain|'andlh|aughfua]ayx|a
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d snn rnD'kngrhr{,
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o) F,rs+rir.h d'!i P{hal Plcdi u, p!3. sol
mcs as h,d lrtr oe ti!:r of
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Grturedsfuhtri{ oo prBr6
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PLr.A.Ts PrNcH,PiPr Olt6aN,
AND ROIA/1CK
C,{RTRD6E
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rdrc.rprr5,r!sliLq
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(r) For s.h pLta flaren rh!
lin6 ontnhersideoIu.h
p{rl.l,h.lold (2) Pushins'h.
c{rD& nnLgl,tilNn toN dr
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lo{s .dgcot rhe|kn hadrog
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creaseat he sides.tb) fuh 'rE sde cBA hstdab k3 qimry ean
t be bas at bP Ph-w 6 @t^a^d
Fig6.^t"awedqdrp|@6'
pls6 oD hc dplcd Ior laish Iull. loo$ly wappedan,l pinled rcund oeJ l!bn. { long6 rht ta'$r
o$ h 'hc hrnshc fabri. b.lo{ rhc thehmglglJbdcs6Ewhd
cho*n dqnh ol rlrepl.d hcd
j.crins plcb sn bc .oDbinedin
rhesme h.a,linsro Er) d. nruc-
r h6dLn3s {i,lc s $. sby br_
ro bc hompnuos, sams Fh-
'rhing 'lt rol, ro rh. backrreis
ins lenghsof Lbric shoull hll oo
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PRoCEDURESFoR
Th. pkar elloNinrt.an bt subdi lidrh srre or the narr*!{drd
CARTrrDGaPr,EATs
idcd inro 6 ,nmy roLdsasr|r rab-
ft {ill sunah, aDd rhc folds can be (rd rdllbrtk aairidB. adc, dr mnch N'h dnl|ll.ariq!pln
!a&d Lndtp'h a \dl s'lmng ro"Prcftdurcsor plgt l0r)
duDs6 rhr. fold pinchpls6 inro
p.rpcndicuhrinnlin$ on dE
nay Dnr! p.rpendi.ulxrnnlhLne
3orl.! Phn6 \xrh rhe slo in!, hbn. b mnch aller ir js plakd
Idlds bdve! 'he plRE u!,rtuhed
d rhc rop. polyc{d lib0n fora
rhe pleft dur n$ Irom tht pimh lo{s cdgcor iht tunlrck (u*
aodrnglr,Tddnlhcp|66.
0 ) md rhela oI dr fsbri. on th.
hsd,ng rrbalk d$ nrc unironr
s$ ol lrrridR'anrly,Fted do6.
Thetlishre bd{en rncdoEets
&Ed€plnoI r]t plsb {2) tun{u
dy 'nud ii andourof $. do6 in
ech w Gig.ell) md saftci Fd!
ins $c tabncdo J.ely r,y.rtd
rolds G) sundingrh€pke6 on tntl
sri . {ill. rqq n}: tuk 'heEn
ot och loll rd,rE 3ry 116raroosrhe
l
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rq@rinms arrdl.Pt(6,
dr spk h.ed Plss shnnk b lne
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t! 1f t! '
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qa{lh.|oLdlthljluo
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r/ (1r..t or sulL.r D dtp(hs
Ds Lhr rcp ol rh. pk&d rai- f.n m,Lrhelt @rc nid noni
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o f r h .r l , r ! l r r r n r nr r
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t!I(b.[oAlshsmdkhg.oo
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WRINKLED
PLEATING
|ab,jcliqh|lyarcurdabnaml&
PRocEDLTRES
and opposi@rdsecarhdne,_
Nors ard v{i'idc, on pag.17) rlrclolds.r-inn rl,c lmsln od
Pnlscdfoldr,.cr!ftiion plcft, and
To dnpq rtu lol& ofl,q.s:I. or l(N tolds,lxing pushspLaGin rhro{h 'h. rld'{ lRlfr b Uri,ts
aPplidions mus b. lDtonhl rcn-plerlik djrcdioc.Forqam. r sno.king Phrd on pasr D6)
D O I J B L EC O N T R O L L E D
P LF A T S
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sp{.d tr'(6nr)!pn1.Lurhrdc
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iLonsrr r.rsrhofrhrrr.rs
r|t rulri dn(lioul pulloL
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r$ft l.qLrr ind rhm for hh,n r,-ddr
dell.,di,s on rhlnurlLdtrq
orlk Prar. Al,o drlr.,dFgon
la'lzbxien65b4ightsil$
on Fs$ 17Iffdtrtdnns iP c
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CRUJHED TJ TLATIENED
PLFIIS
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hennededgeald'e.|ly-snackd
h.ney.fubp]aarna'sarn4fuhellat
be orsdh{ nsnfdns o hasdns
nn I pdind !!!drr (Fis 7 r t) hsid. r|t Qd rno\N€ $'irh rigtr(
PRocrDLrRrs
t. ro $rimd. $e ,mounroI fabric
nquird, tri& ro "Fibi. tu+dd
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tqctheL ot tb) Mrdnq parc ol
th'eads ,qtte 3 !/e ataDrdpns
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(r ) Nidr cYd,l)-
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DrREcr (referh "smocliiruEnbrciderr virh rhedorI)dEm.alisrhgftt
SMocKTNG s'irh6- on PasEt27) Eeh do' rc$5 fr'h 'ne nGish'Ciin dr
npro.nb tu pdk dr a fururc eovd labLn.B.Ior clDosns
Iotd anduil be d.ted up br a oneof rheIollo n3dolmi*ing
sdrh rhe 5pe€beN€€ndob
I on gnddedpapE(prEpre a dd rhroush
fie Lbric Usealigh'
prrm ro suppoi,lh. snorlhg
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ba*etranltandssue h a tiry.
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t'1\tV.,','r''e \i |l. tri/
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endoldoEllltlclqlthDd
CoNToLREDITAUAN
Sn ocKJNc
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EXTENDTNGIHf
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TucKs
snndxdtu**ansxe*ci8l[a|d
5E1M5 PEIIENDICL'LAI{
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1 En,blish mssuftnmb for Fi$rc de tobl anoutu oI ht
r. Erimderheamou of fabric th€ riAi or a tuck (he specc
nqdrd ror ruckiDglnd dn ba,{n ru.kilmanl tuk
ApFl) oneoI rhefollowing
nd onunMllyfrd.to.ks
Fg33Band9filg||Ck'fuha
Ddbled..nd{edced 0cls p@* and b irdtaE 11)th"
neEdso nnlhing lin.s Mtu d the tu.k and (r) he e
l l ' ' . ' , (F1gs11). Ford,pp.ryI:E
|aldo||hep|evla6lysewnfuck'
For nrhire s$ing. (dtrtor
n€edledGune Imn rh.Iold-
FIga6'|h|Dcksbeb|eseng pitv.nt hbn. fter rnd cd .dgc by aljgning rh€ Iold
6suE r.uGsr who 5s ing frrh m*kinss on $. irtdl.
mrkrrgs*hrd {}iry rI
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PRocEDURES
Prls berocPmccdbsrorhc
Nde Pr r.I .rr.,&P o pir t:
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roLd.{hthhrlp3ld B,Lh hr
sn(.h .nd pin 'lte Eds$ of 'Lr3
sh.U rtrckd l,bh!. iisbrsid. up, 'h! oYsedse nir(h$:, e roodort
Loa p:dded su,-f.c., and ntxn 'o8dh{ fo! tu dd'h of rheruck.
\r,h the non hcld jun rbov. rtr
rulkf8 Alotr ro cootmd dr
levdrhn. ltn b hndrlupptu
CoNToURED
TUCKS I .
'"(irm)wdio&dedsssr t:
PRocEDUTES t.
Lh! tulr 6 fdJd n{ 'Ni'g)
Fige24'conlfunngheedgeala
$am|ortrLfifringaftcNtrd
rig.s.23Dlanond8hpedkeyndes
Mbdbybow.|yihgllbpahtso|
lwDzEzas.arM tuk beethel
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?djacnrtud6 ro o\d'lL
(i nm) w& co$.(a! reguar
(r rr)\i.oinrdninLo
vrry rth shark! tdh obnsdy sl,:h6 mar nop shod dr rh. ltr.k
s6n. and lne Dgl.! dr 'h. poin6
th,nrwli@$rud! drhx|]]n.
EnNr v'ihrpdl {edC* ol labft
Isr tu ru.h. rnd fol{l s usull
(Fis.3-ze)Innsd oI zisa&ing.
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ro cool $xl dry beiort uip'n
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lrun &. sndry panllct and ngidly
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Dal. loo$r app|natioEoI ro$-
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PRocEDURTS d rtt( I r oblcd. rh€ 5bnd oI a
bgdhei (l) Tr.k .si'n 6bled rudr .quals a l['1. l6s 'lmn
1. R?{r* thr pio.tdufts lor
sundid li.ks rhl bcginon dNnsh rh. enrer ot thc rorholh kiids oI!tu$ kc[.d
trtrks !m Rndlr*h $th h.k b
th. s,n n oNrncs r rhc bqin
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r]t rhErd-u arry the
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((b)'n Fis 3 rr).
posn,on kking
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andalloqh.ool
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su'rd,il Tutk 'n{ b.gh on
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PRoCEDLTRE5
FoR
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FoR TIEDTucKs
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i i i
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n,,l,ldndLedorn b ndlh'rs
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Cannechga@no|bb||ilh@t
rhrcu8h b 'he nghl ndt rl't thtd$ so ({) rvhlo nNhd pin
ourdr?rc6bdlcco,hc,u!rc[d
'u.r'Dg ro . peddcdboaid
srnn Nnh,n nor hcrdiun dry h.lo. upimhs (5) Rtau5r
oondd!* ftd r!d( d!5iqn! .hatrgt
th!!'rgsoIfufubLi.l[nnnigh
and rnr io dnron.n fin Lhr frbrn
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PRocEDURES
ca!3u.hirgqnrg|hereee@a
swt \{n ,nh) ta the tetuat the
|he|h6adhulfuJa|e@n|ihDirg
rngdE hLn. reqnnmcnt.or
dn crion.olc'rding {nh
i.{*dqllt L G ddjl|]h' Lhrcadtmbo$$ rh. dsien
*rh thr ndg$ 'hd h e a
ju* rLrod of rhcn(dr. 3nd
tup. lLk..dsc (Fu 31r)
io noR dran ,r/ ( r tnn) inic d rhr kdnil0. Anex(p
rFr rh. ford For dshr dr{s
P A R , TF O U R
Q Cording
BASlcs
CORDTNG
CoRDi foR CoRr)Nc
arrnrrNc
PRocEDuRrs
nop5d. prosns0n df r
dhe( rnd ddr dranntlilier
nens(Fig.9 l).Th.eI|widd
. rn b,.k.sdr(h€d co.ded
quilling, tri!. rhcdaign dnb d6ien Nirh rinl uniaom nrch
rhEsu.fee6bncrsjDs. lan s. AL PofB vre (o${!s
tsh,q n sn\, Emoubrc dunncls intnup' d. I'nc bdDe
rhelineco{irucs,hkinS. linr
bekdrh on dch sid. or tr
t s4 N D 5 E W NC O P D E DA ! I T I N C
F{ I-qi). pdlql Lh (!h 'lr
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,{ffii
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r|t lLnhs 'de (r) Ttr rhttuc
Fltrdnsdinlnats.oin{nim s
a npznt xlnit cLEnud srthLnB *ms proenls th ud ao h!
heschingwil]fuable|awaprhe
(Ii sin Nih rnim! n.lnhad hf 'rh.
humpLdrds6 a'uid b\ laat nak6 a @saqew4 tot the
taj cad insetu afret swi@ he hannets atu lb) cad bsed.d thte
T. 1. 1
Ii
i
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t' : i t . ] A C HN a a E W : !
aoriJ:f) QL|LTtL.
u''.,il I
|ilil
UflryIlir{.ar-s\
I
SURFAcE
CoRDTNG
PRocrDLnE5
@.\J..J.!'.'
r.Lhn((s{ (ii !r r rs e it
c o L t r go n p r g . l a 7 ) P d k m s &
as ene. la)PlTs/weanebt ir
san awratb tb)P,p)nctuenihs
b{{PiPhghlldngiIreifli.
br' rct qhdr agai,s' rr,! or,r ^L,hc up rsah{ rh. hhn. nomrnds
n$'h codeddbingsrn rpfropn
rgrnn 'ht .o.d,q of rr I o! tun
tt J
:
I
: JII
J ;
fi
i,J
tt,
Iit
,ill
1li1)
/!t1
ltlll
1t\lr
11\l
s L rf (i A c r : c o A D N G
lQ Quilting
aurLlNc BAsrcs
QurrnncBsrcs
I&ANifERxtNGDfstGNs
'ltoughlqjovsla${lrsa|
jouri'g \6rlLlsu'i\
NrA.r
u\r aurlrrNc. .. .. .:17 dle ord uo rh,od or.lh. LDG
VrirrLn$on rhr ighL 5d. or
,h. rq) ilrr rh. rrbr! h6 b{!
dunigmtidsUaafaLn!{f.
*ud b!rll.hernd.dopd
. ro qurLr
lo"c.nric] l[d*rh hn!e or rr0rd-hddr(drc aiion
vsha,iLjll Prohr!ms.
riurrrr
E\ilirD'.Ind qnilFL,k.conono(
0,ddlurJb.(nsd fromrh.
ror iG PoruL ,! Lo\ roft rcsuhL !l\ 'mnlrn !ir. !ilI hddDsn
\rho, bPl J( rJL!. ur dr
Dor h 'N ftiiq! G @nihuos
h L L l l l sq. u i l k L l
,i,s' surh, n( iron\ onorr of
aftn oghlhs
THEDoL'arE-BrNDrNG
EDGEFrNrsH
e m r nr h d L r s i F g t i i t r F o f l J r q
]if.lolBr]1uo|i*c\\on
r,s q rB or l].g! \\r) ri! qdrh
r l ! 4 J j !o t i r o r d r r i!drr
JorNrNGMoDUL R
UNr s
croo* of. oLlhrrolroqtrg
.ONCL{LTD CONNTCTION5
(6nN)rropquiLri,sr' (25!m)
olhn$rs\id..,onsh ro hlL,nrh.
.t
Fa la5 Sdppcdcanr@lar 13)Jdr
thehhs shp bTe lb)Fttth.sla.e behhd|he|ap!|ipwrhfud'njlackdd
H,rro Qt trrtnc
-.t'l
-:l:
i. ..I :.ii::
ii ir- t:
''
:.'i :l "*:
',:)iit;'f;;rt
', ','
,l ,f,.
-.': :1.:
sPr€ad.
s'iu.ft d( lmodh. rnd
t. Follo! 'nc [n6 oI rbr qtr'lnng
-)-_-f_1_
J_-ai
Ei\i-fl',r':' lhud insEd imo a 3hon,
Xllitt,i" i bd$ren $w rhioughall rh€l,r.
$f:ii'l'jill
t ) L t --l- I i-.,t#i;+iri.iii {n.hs ,nrodr radd.drabncb
nE.nbc rhcdsisn ino tne 5u.
h.e (Fjgsroir. 10rz,,nd
ii-i i-
l-i-i-i-
ii-i i-
,_,_j j_l
ffii:l.
l\/ti)\::l
I
)
li
N'l*;lg;;;a#
bpa[hMhD8 F rqdr--ro.
qn' r losiion trul Lheqal'
ins i5 rbGhcd (Iig L0l{)
@Fe@4q&
><--
do* bsftrs Enr r&.s,!'
/tr-F-"-,
( ( . . )
Fiq1a13hs{U@qun4rda9
at a qufti@ rne: (a) Knat tha th.ead
th" (1.3m) tm tb tuna6. tb)
lfuneefu|hrcugh|hebatipand
8:bnngradhahE'lenglha||a!,
(c) rus he knd inb he tuttu| cul
the thead fiere t entu6 td) ro
M|ha|hybackgibnsbb|hefu*
|h.a@h|hebathq'b|ingnoha||.
nvdy rM phhd rhed3$. rf nushwirh tht in.d up r4. of lic lih unbrmpd nkh6.
thebP A$€obh quilrd mod
ultsrdSdh&lehs oDeor Lhe pu.k.ry txrufl I'r dGLirgunhd
wnh danPhs Prcr oDeside ncrhodsdacibed h !oiri!8
uid 6 rhconlyquiklnsnir.h
covr rheedg$ol? ffnishtd bdryh\.|sftncd+ilttngIurc.
mdrtu {wn. doubLdbhd,dg
(reb ro '1 hc DoubkdBinding s ufd ro quiLt,hc nejonry of a
fdee..in!h- on Posc207).o.
w
b.gd]i'EnlhoJundE@do|'lt quilEd hsdhr w'$or . lilq ot
h4dns in b{N{n .a i Es'Lr rh.
trph b dd id idrrhbr. ro wndr- {rklr rl'.fdt $c runftsjdrh€d
I ' T\ D Q] LT \
l
Fts. 1o.2o Batdet dsigre: la. b c) tuchhe
FiE 1a 1e eeqhund at owQn tusisn sude qJtuitq ld, e) Free mtd qunihs
edquttuE la, b, c) staisht ald srshtryeufrire het ate
ha saead b dbp {d e t) 4ndedanddeeplt.wed
elly movinsrheroFTbdring/rin
norcment of rheroP4driienti
in8 und- the ddtus needr
a.o!.all, b:.kbund. andbor
d( daigB frrh sftighr lir6.
.rG.lnhLglanlhlnh
|aqDs|adbve|a@jnalaraw2
b6trdbP/nltrlg/|Ld!]s
crPotrrn dr o/ofurt
alrlr NC , e
Lr"|6s rht b/hihgrhi'r8
bn$bs $. norftN oI hrs suppon.i6 Lleish,ndll
rhelalnic roa gn lMl nop. hhdslhr ProBrc\Ycmdrr
trnu'ng
'o iLdlr clipil rorhrnghroirh.qnrrringliNr
scun drcroll $rh 'mDr hnr.
nuiocquilKl r,PA hs/
v--a d! dirs orer{r ph5 .dld
,n3.hnmdbesEn rhercll
fufundn'dlol'ftdop/bll
thg4hmgb'htpr:CNhe]e
(l)su( by holdjngon 'o rl'. quL'hgGbh.gnAlihe
endof rhemedlerhR:d
Fig1023'Fa||reelalanquhng'
handsdie.l|he|aplEnirglirirg
ftps clt tnn tutuat otorestutp ti rhrcuehthr rop/bartr'p/
(ts1g.10
nq).R! pkkrg. s
drhbn.undctun*dk
nnn.iornnmg/LhgD
FimoRrb/6rdng4h Hit
r,
rhe LnrirF (r) rEnd$! rrr
F-,
{ndK; G) Lft dr rtrr Iti::
r$ tu{dhq rod (r) quilL
|]'h.frl(bp/bdn4'1D'
LrI rdLs$fll.[ngl'oL.pirtd
ffi')
,hs ro ,he r,nirs. o) $v
Lh!b[i'B/li!4nnlq)
la) DMe he bP, banhe, and rdne i,g/LiDns , {tNmds a f,!s&
b,h| *nrn n]Rdrqurlr hta two s@.iansandjojn l@thsf
ahet quttu$ the tid sedm. (b) cul
he barirq tnta tutva (at thnd, and n'ddrl! Ll" (:105on) qurr
.]glhrD.lhlnov.f]on<lgi
bihnanrnnrs. Nd (+) quil,
Ja}dJogl'ng]hQdnal!lLa'
nurghr lN filtE bc,w&n rrguri
,ir.,lErd rr nkn,s.Ir,uL dr
n
nnch.s rDL,n"irnnl bcfoc ifL-
irrlnd dtrr io riis ()) oi 'rtr
p4
r.pdrlLrhslJe 't r r.nls olllr
ffi
Ns m,l \ ci+r. n bnh mDrlh I
qUhg3hj6o|]irinqandbp|ab|ic'
stbhi@|ha|rsInceabdanfu|h
SIL"ID APPLIIU!
ru.nd lolDLtiri5os rlnalkd
NoIIs €r V-aRrATroNs
Nr.rdlN autlls on
rc rr mrkdn?prao iLJIrd
5 T U F F E DQ U L T N G
l!
*
STUFFED dnon.,ndd,i,s r& ?tl)li$e
APPLIQUE
Ran:llonifc ro rr [{[ rlll)
PRocrDL,Rrs
s u d t . f o r . u r o u 6 ( r r sl L 8 )
s'nh : hLri. sfc mrlci hcc
nutths.nnnLi?.rhclortrdr,on
illona!( nouDdrrrctrx.d
or rrrbrlqiN r {rriqurvLLh
,i?9,
p"Nn7z-q
Fig'114DesilE|Usfuledapeliqu1
app]ywlhs|tfrifuhda,relh
, '
s%#%
srbhinaanaprrbu6:ta) fun car
fusea|ch$ae,lhebujldqo|
\|hehtains a canet at b) an
ircitu anste.ld) Bandsuitu thenee
iEezrgle'al,aysB|Uni@|aa
l€) swivd ||h tu needten the
tundaid tat otu& rutues 0 wlh
,s 1112 Optiaretq mhtu 4ptique (a) satk Jrh r(r) f Fis rr Lr)
ehb'a)derytooLlb) stbh Mh a Maow zi4s. (c)
xpplLqut'hrcushasliLlur tnro
NorEs & VARIrloNs
ftd1) .x(ud whdr tu nlrGhd
shaPslorafP|i]]u.F]y|j.* ondud Juplisrrs,h orisnul
appriqu.(b) i'r ILg ll lt. d.lrcatrd itrri.ft aik ikh'
HaDd$s ,hEoFnin!ds.d andpoinllor po,rtiwhN all m!.d
lury shrrP sr.rd( poin6 rDd odrh* m rn!*iLlqdn dntads
'lc$mrdv0816gihmtnu.
$maLtollRncptrs tu sEi.
$tdD||cng.sinplll.dlhrpa ufdrmerh rhr nt ynn.h.d
$'nh iJlqu{l fam ,lo\"n.* nL !dg$ or rlr arpliqu6i and!l,cn
t|tfl{nddoo|rcuDJ1h{$I1ly
Jndk{L'drclainslsdign
dhEsnFs I|,n ?rf liqueis too
t rzd d!{ n,!ir,ryLqr. trr.
prcrcnbl)
simple. rnLsh'.+ed
5haP5 onro fab,n \!n[ i ldd!. haDdld Alr, $ins a hlgt
s$yq and cDr4. ill nound whri Qpl\ui r rhe foundrion. dnide
l{.}
|h '+rt! 0rr!L nult ishtL\
trmlL:ld {{tqu. Gr nLtrli (rr
-w-
looa appliqaI E ror n]l.rli rll
rppl{f . {trllrns,lrougr orni,sr
S T U F F E DA P P L I QiT J
ongndnue!rd,!PqlB(Llr
GATHER.ELEVATED
APPLIAUi
EdrsoNm ods (ris r ! 22)
rb q/ salhe is ih nlfr nto ert-
GUSSE'ELEVATEDAPPLIAU.
Fi|11.22'rgered'end!fien||fu|
PnocEDr,Rrs
ho3hL!otrrt+,r simPl,i'hc
/ / --\
L-l t
\ -ll,/
r Lhcrrc(F,! | lr)
a'r tl \ .;.;i;.;; l
,/ at
L/ \!
/'\
I I -,,---<
;-<-
L i -
I Gwe,
Figll19Arargennsa|stean
oltr.ll i r b! 'h€ dficrcDc
ds 1126 la) Ap|iqte b 6e dev2.
e\prnd dE sid!(n h r dc
Fig1l27D,4hhgaquselfu|eb
skshnq and spteadt4 ih't side al
he tian4e la mabh the stevated
edgea|lheg6se|.alhal|hefoo
( F i sI r . i n d i r s o , . r - b
ofrouDdriorhb'ir Llrtrlr blor
.'lrqsrheTprqb.aulinebils
ca'hFleL€bd awliqu6 ofird
nul hlgh{ L\an th. nnicipftd d.
urion prd.dir\ if $e ruffins ts
houndd in rhe corti An iPpriqli
8arh.ftd all areund Ni nuf nno r
mundrJ rom ro LeePfie middlc as lcn3d ol the comour on rrr nnp
nn 6 posibl. push &e nutrls
cu$c .lldN lon fo| cd vrn, rionr ,ndsfd lersrl oLr]]. rt.vftd
in thenu[.d rtrip..]od srhenng Li'c cu$cl. sn be dnlied rlm'
{ill elsr en ipplqui o! a nanr.
olnk aP-[ or,rth. *trh PE.
r]t d6n d [.ig[r afr- nutlbs
Figll.BHar.nfufuiEEnem|b
ittLnultinsn rvilsrpohr
u Forrhefoundadon
dt: Pi&e
HALF-RouNDs
%/(l r,nn) Iron rlf n?rro{
*ltchd5ldebyside6tfomd:toi
with *lffnsercofd beseen the cr prp. hmrbo .drcrh.
bek. {nh L}Phsrdshl
p,Pd or.odft(ul nab,lE{
PRocEDURES
aroundrheedss or by hali
brs rla ift p*ilkl nrdrupr
Ed,oY{laPPi!8, o! sk$v.d. Add b snh , Iahncgi. ndkhg
:.ul 6 I a n I R P s c do r f i
s.w iLN nsr . tu n,n
i rornrc (d) ir ris rr 16)
6. stuftrlt h?ltuDd' \,I'rr (rdq
b !trfiils olpqr:/s).unn!
,Nndh,hrIN a,in
lr ) so! rlf ftn 'dE ol Lh(
h,trcu'dilb'lt&tgt r,i[:r! i,rL&! (]) EsL
nm hrr , {rnd :r nsh,ndl
rk n'llncs{ r]I um..,d
orrl( hrlt rcuDd Nhi c siD*
,h.nrdL.Jdlni ii(h
nrps.lollDsins
rhl rumbfr&l
{qum(ol:pplir or (b)
NorEs & VARTATToN5 GrliDe rhe*s haLfmuM hhi. ro
dresPlE benED rhcbtsddrd sa,
rhsftdlnry tne rourdnb! and,ncffi ,rrL{tuE rheseDd
$dr[oraru.h'lfrouMLiB sidetodr loundadon(Fis rl r9)
diih{.( 50addjnB hru rh€,liamt
ft (tu ndilt b $€ hrlr-round
durinssewingan,l discoungs
ul half round A.tually rhd nu.h Hallmunds atu$(.d bd ftrll
deyadoni5 too ouch lor a tn[ Nh.n rh. und.6idc ofthc loundR
rion b+ns to buls€and curl up
oi r 'rsign kriunn8 hnl Dulds
tni sEduallr indes ro rha,
hcigh! $'1r! sevinghalr rounds
roo mudr nuffing shcn $3 nuuhu
*rh non rhnnjz rh€roundadon imPed6nirchins,irh r asubr
Fig11.93sinv||aneo!<||sewnu vidr[ ddtn td rhc hilf mund nnP.
.r rh..ndsoI $e nnpsin ar our
7. Rcnor rhr rnporry nabiue. rDishr nnch s.\ins Ioor or dr
nlltils ro build ul in hcishr.
rhe $aro b.6!(n IEUnunds
Ratu.dnrip?iig E a Io$ rtld
rcu s, *witrg l]1t lining h rhe b.ne 'lj. d.dioE on eirho side v.sior ofh,lf rcundsrr G siniltr
b hllLruds in allr6p-c bur
Nc An indnr for he8h' afhr
mft, oared by rhecoDstudon
stumngis not iddrd td rhc*ips or
smin'oabruade!chun€LAflr rbnsl$ nir.h.d h rhr foundadoi.
ssins lhc lKt sideof i hill tuund
b plre, u. firt *.nlinloldlm ro
g,ugei dnde for thc bpnidrins
1 .
Fb 11.1o (a) Paten ta, a eraup ot rc
hat tE seM t@th,q. 16)se||ira qn
ordunrgnrd,L.<nEr od
CoNNDCIED
RoLLS
r rrfcdi dc ora.h rdF
PRocrDURrs $LhqlliLofLh!rdhli!'{L
FA 1113.stutrednt Enatbs
la) rcpstibhactassth6prgatddas.
na. @ r@Ibh downtheeentetal
$\ ,h. trtrnnffdalDsino,h.
lthbd[dhDd(jftrnull: $rE iohnr*hn Pkc5 ofhhnc
: i ( )X
c1 It
gr.s.mddhlLmgkLnlps'
PRocTDUREs
(6om). dn!! anorlr otrdLn. bdNs arjrNr orhN fo
D.nr or rdjoill3sqndn! 11l(r rmr) ouFiderh.
q;ruchnnh d6 coDnd
nnth'.ndcdPil|or*xnhfts.
r kb5 (Fis r-51)
r,ggdrdtrg.
\j.w*rc .a Faat 4 ,. 4r6.t(.qa'a @..po1a 1f;o>na
lht tN a|Lo\qn(s ]nd dI |.d
:T| oFrinss lnib. ir ir ]rk rr[
!LLll,-
difiqcn, u':' Glmsn.d .!r out insidcrh. *rn diplh. prcrn d n ds-ih.d ror lir. piL
'dingks, ransl.! ild olaln. 5qn iroran(, rnd rm nshrsnk
orr G) ![hhs ru dBs a\ rhe
rdd ,h. snourr erioinrcd fro 'ht rc-|rann.drnns.ntnr For
tr-tr
fvins rosdln orrrrlr d .dgs
orllr lorslds (frg n 5t) nnrkd d rlE lhLr*! G,s rrrs)
(5) s,rrrsd Nkhoh throngh
(l),\rurmLo8'L.ssinsbur
t6) uol*! iand{J ln,l. rillo$.
EredbfIaDfrEh*uieddev'1]6
G
o
0n
Fs 11a la) D8i9ntat rdte prk$ h peehdes. (b) paneth will ssdr
tu)rhe @hlet tc) P€ekhotette
LT T PLLC\']
@ o
i o
j rJard r., i.,: jid e !: !=i::i
Brscurrs
PRocEDURES
hlcargthcf€o'$ch15.b,r$.
. .tr3Lisdtrlf,e.rur)li4q
*cdonss b. rd,ncd..nd
{urr
An,rkrnareardsP-dier
ainnlemss.hrq!a6edby6e
PnocEDLiRE5
lamlfu4l$i&onredhg
s q u r k s ( F i g . 1 1 6 Ls )d L l r
asqnm i l l h . d . n g d D E I i1
nohcr'ddLea.f\lloruntr
l [ r b N i F L gl l 6 7 ) i o . d ' !
plh!trl|nqorfinull
,\n0u!Pa|\Lll{(lDNlUj
,"Lti:':
Structured
Surfaces
72 UsingDarts
r do$k']rircd drL. rcllk
DART BASICS
SEau&NcDARr5rIMs
G) Brgu{trlhn8vih1ludr.
rhLh5LrouLdLr.dDstr lrrl(
,haa,rsk gdhr i,r tronr r,DL{i!h 'ht Lh'{d nn \rar
mouthor$eVwhth s alw:y3
*
PRocEDURES
o r r r r d r b ( F , sr : 6 ) r h . s .
n.'rrQi+r.sidcdPdr,, hb !Js!) 15).oFp{. Llrrj11,0, I'o$ oDrlr rsh, rdt orrr hl)
Lhnr$uDdflllom$L
aE Lhenoi
'rt dc
ry\L
lul .ddi.{hi!hlPfus
I rr'-ir!tf!! i Itf i
DouBl E-PoINTED
DART
r h r r r r r r r L r r d r L { r o r i n th
$n!hl]]llhLo|$*l!Nncd
(rLg lr L|.drqtrtr,gp!:nbn1
!k.?l.rrsd,naourrr( [n 1
scuu*clipping rdatu hrdrir Th. bctorcdd msurm.d rnd
prurD lakens rhenrms$ of rhe fie zfGrdai merurementreld a
$Er! the dnn€nsionariq,of dr rh. wbng sid. oLlhc tabff pull rlr
l,bh..dtr{rudioi r..rt&, dln tabdcdovn ar fte ends.w]ren a ursd mqsumd. Afiri nnchins
panm', u{ gridd.dFp?i 'o d.!be snlhed on lnEdshr side.th€ridbk
tuldssuppdnh.igtu a, 6rh .nd
ddublcpohrd dar6.combined (Rdd ro's(unng D:n sea'ru' on
Nrh nngL.poinkd datu d rhe ab. P4€ 267) ro €varuft a dan pn- non h.ld jun abovc r fibnc
ndcdccc(od{.h'lanoniB Allor b coolanddry b€foremor
squ,rcol hbric Lo.k ( bolh sida ing.Tdlibil'zr ioddY,llr a.k
orlncsd.hcdioplq rhq willb. r][loNpoinboL r rchctb r nrti
rhc dcigr dr 'hc 4shr d wruns qunr dificrcnl M!6uE drehbric Unrsurl fonnarions rtsuh
sid. olrhelabric(Fis. 12 lr) whcn5l€ndqdansre *Ich€d
o:o:oVZA\V
sulp€d &bricrhn undrrlirsrh.
++ A\v7x
VZA\V
A\ l^\ l^\
\VZ
++
!r, kirn !ri ji I , r , i,.1,i , {l
rini rcFo., re +,iii,?!r. rt I it ! Gi
d.,rrNrir{ ii! ne,!l Di,l! i I i .d, ,jdi r:!,,f i..,
rlrjir::aoiTLili:!''{T(roiNxl!i,.]'rdll
t'
t Vrt
:tt l H
finH.tlJ.ri
1.
+
+
+
+
t
I
* l
*.
*
-t
*.
'#
*
Manipulations
73 Combinrrtions
TEcHNreuE
VARTATToNS
ffi,,,W
a
rEiNJlo6 ./ r4de.tshrd
5i!-.@rr.uiiri(r Mr il
:aa.}8, : \
.'RJ'
\$.
7
j:l
,
illrl
s l;tit plli
-znS
)r*"'
-1 .
i'+r.'l
'^.
t1 r
tf iI
'1"
'*-t-
, --j,' '.r'
i" ,==
Appendix
HAND STITCHES
BAcKsrrrcH
becinningrcPhcingaLiotitheeid
BASflNG
br n3 r of y/ (rmm)h iron. Eri
rlgme.eightstyeod$e5ijfrh
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lengih I b&kas n rront (h) n
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LADDTR
sttrcH /'" lrmm) bcow se ar edge;
mow ahad !" l6mn)for $e rc{
BrIN:DirrrcH n]tchn€trcdicdlom'3htbeft
(re86e a dredotrir €t.hmded).
sed rc aPPl46 a folded edse rc
righrrc err(rsss:rrdr4bN ir
reit.hmded).Br is se ned e !P bke a i rch Ln" (3mm) ong N de
nd r,,(rrm) on3hsidethe
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Fis A.4.Laddet*hh la) ct6ns
,/t" (3mm)ahead.
reepis rte
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ededseolthe!pP|iq!aAit{ir
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(b) h Fg.Ar).aid refer6 (oh
OVERHAND
SrrrcH S PSTITCE TAIoR TAc(s
co*,firn hind nrh 6ed ro
io i No folded or fiikhed ed8es.d.
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r d reldos r hft haided). dd ihe
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GLOsSARY Gn.trN
e 5 ( 5 ) A n e m e b cm d w c c
qe q a tuer' 3r P.d$iqred to
FAcJNc
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sem|hewiththelabl.ishride4
FoL DATIoN
FArRrc-SAEMAru<rar
nsier^rrr,5 r! hP p&m,nen,
ren4o6/i./ ot' atnorc oi ,re
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hdude:(r) Pii4d dht/rsEd
fordr (2) s! $o, nips md rcrh* in
*an a6hi.s (r) B*.n8 md 6i
ror 6.ks. t4J Bhckb@i chak da k
NPs SIABILEE SrAYsflTcHrNG
-(r)ro aarc eadeGd*itd n3 shghtsdthhgbymachhe
PREis
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whkh
areftlly bm aq/ nom the ( rhs Drrc[
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rnied bl aurr PubrLhq LDitrd,
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ng wovef moleros-ore seem'ng v ende$ Io nes.rbe
them orlwo! .i be ro descrbe ilre ent LAh n.rY 01selr n9
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