Professional Documents
Culture Documents
written by
Rose Marie Burke
www.InternationalLiving.com
International Living’s Guide to Working and Living in France:
The Ins and Outs
ISBN 0-9547754-2-2
120R0014B4
No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means,
electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording or by any information storage or
retrieval system without permission of the publisher. While every effort has been made to provide
accurate, up-to-date information, the authors and publisher accept no responsibility for loss,
injury, or inconvenience sustained by any person using this book.
International Living’s Guide to
7
Working and Living in France
8
Introduction
by Rose Burke
You are reading this guide because of your interest in working and
living in France. Welcome to the club! France is home to an estimated
130,000 Americans and many more foreigners from other countries.
We are all here for the same reason. Once upon a time, we fell in love
with France. Our dream became to live, study, or work here some day.
Working and Living in France: The Ins and Outs is also designed to be
part of a broader community effort. It started as the website, AngloFiles,
co-produced by Stephanie Kidder and I, a pioneer site that provided
information for English-speaking foreigners in France. In the spirit of
AngloFiles, this guide directs you to the great resources of the expatri-
ate community, which are increasingly found on the Internet.
9
Working and Living in France
When I came here eight years ago, the adjustment was difficult.
Information was hard to come by in those pre-Internet days, and, as is
usually the case, I didn’t know what questions to ask. In writing this
guide, I give you my 20-20 hindsight so as to prepare you for a soft
landing in France.
10
Chapter 1
Adjusting to France
Everyone has heard of culture shock but few, on coming to Paris,
believe it will happen to them. That’s because the shock of a new cul-
ture is not just psychological––it’s also physiological. In those first few
weeks, the adrenaline flows. Everything is new. Your body is hit by
thousands of new stimulants a day. You’re on a high that you believe will
last forever. It’s the same high you experience as a tourist. Pretty soon,
you’re tapped out of adrenaline. Exhaustion sets in. You feel a little
down. You might even want to pack up and go home. The ups and
downs, if you survive more than a year in a foreign country, gradually
smooth out and life settles into a routine.
To beat culture shock, it’s helpful to realize that integrating into the
French way of life takes a great deal of time. Most Americans believe
that they’ll be fluent in French and French-ness in about a month or
two. Becoming fluent in the French culture can take a lifetime, espe-
cially if you come here with an attitude that the American way is better
and that the French are behind the times. Perhaps they are…but maybe
they like it that way. The longer my husband and I stay here, the more
we like the French lifestyle.
11
Working and Living in France
are going to live permanently in Paris head for Fluency 900. If you’re
only here for three months, set your sights at Functionality 101.
If you want a professional job, you’ll more than likely need a flu-
ency in oral as well as written French. Some U.S. job seekers believe that
their American skills will be such an asset that the French will tolerate
their learning the language on the job. That might be true if you are
high-powered, high-tech, or with a multinational company. Remember,
though, that you have a lot of qualified English-speaking competition
from Britain and Ireland and they, unlike non-EU nationals, have the
automatic right to work in France. There is also competition from the
multilingual Nordic countries, where people have impressive job, lan-
guage, and people skills. Even if you snag a job despite your weak lan-
guage skills, life outside the office will suffer as you’ll be cut off from the
culture: French newspapers, books, movies, theater, restaurants, and
ordinary French people. That would be a shame.
Yes, you can learn much through immersion, but that’s assuming
you know the basics first. We Americans tend to inflate our knowledge
of foreign languages. Those awful language-school placement tests are
certainly a wakeup call! You are a fledgling if you can order a baguette
in a bakery. You’re conversant if you can order an airline ticket over the
phone. Fluency is being able to discuss the drama of a Renoir film in a
noisy café with a group of French people. You want to hit the ground
running rather than spend the first year learning the basics and puzzling
over cultural differences.
That said, there are many ways to adapt to the new culture, ranging
from the laid-back to the hardheaded, 100% immersion technique. Check
out the following personal accounts about how it is actually done:
Donna’s story
Donna, a native Californian, has been living in Paris for over 20
years and works as a professional researcher. She adapted to Paris on
her own. As she says, “I did not go to a support group. There was good
reason for this. In 1965-66, there weren’t any… We first lived in
France for nine months… We arrived on Dec. 1, 1965. We did not
have to suffer jet lag––in those days transatlantic steamers were still
12
Adjusting to France
“On the advice of our concierge, I enrolled our five year-old daugh-
ter at the local école maternelle (preschool) cold turkey. I told her that for
the first few weeks she would not understand what people were saying
to her, but she would learn. We were somewhat concerned for most of
the year, because when we asked her if she was learning French, she
always told us no. It was only at the end of the year, when we met some
of the other parents, who were stunned to learn that we were not
French, that we knew she had been speaking French a long time. She
just didn’t realize it.
“I had no friends, but this did not really bother me a great deal. I
had had almost no friends in our California suburb. I did not really
enjoy the suburban housewife and mother way of life, which was stan-
dard at the time, and thus had never been able to make many friends.
Instead, I opened up my intellect. During that year I discovered, quite
by accident, French history and, in particular, the Second World War
period, the German occupation of France, and the Vichy government.
It was an interest that has continued to this day, only now I have turned
it into my profession. I never did adjust to American suburban life. In
fact, after living in Paris, I found it even worse than before…when we
got the chance to move to Paris permanently, I offered no objections.
Quite the opposite.”
Debby’s story
This freelance journalist came to Paris from the U.S. with her hus-
band and teenage daughter in the early 1990s.
“When we left Washington, ‘A’ (who would kill me if I used her real
name) was 13 and had long straight hair and a pleasant, forgiving
demeanor. Everyone rushed to tell us how lucky she was to be moving
to Paris at such an ideal age. It would give her a second language,
expand her horizons, and alter her awareness forever. No one warned
us that we might be creating a monster.
“These days at the breakfast table I confront a tall (well, taller than
me), thin, sophisticated Parisienne with masses of thick curly hair, a
13
Working and Living in France
P.S. Last year, Debby moved back to the U.S. after her daughter
merited a mention très bien (very high honors) on her bac (high-school
exit exam). This is very rare, even for a French student.
Joan’s story
Joan arrived on her own from the U.S. in June 1996. As a corpo-
rate librarian, she had begun to openly fantasize about moving to Paris
after life as a suburban housewife and mother. As she says, “Be careful
about your fantasies, or they may become a reality before you are ready.
“In Paris I checked into a small hotel and told the desk clerk I would
be there for five days or until I found an apartment. He said it might take
a little longer, but they would try to help me. After three weeks I was dis-
couraged enough to wonder why moving to Paris had seemed like such
a good idea. I missed my family and friends at home. I envied the
Parisians I saw casually coming in and out of their apartment buildings,
while I had only my tiny hotel room. Most of all, I worried about the
money, that seemed to be pouring out endlessly for this little room.
“Every day the hotel staff asked me how things were going, and I
14
Adjusting to France
My story
When I came to France with my husband, we formulated a one-
year plan with an option to stay for five. John secured a job at an inter-
national organization. He filed for visas and we received our residency
permits upon arrival, but mine didn’t allow me to work. (France is now
considering giving trailing spouses of employees at international organ-
izations working papers.) If I only had a year, it would best be spent
learning the language. So I did, but at the same time, I looked for a job.
Piece of cake, I thought, but after several failed attempts, I realized that
the opposite was true. So I decided I’d keep up my skills and make con-
tacts by freelancing.
15
Working and Living in France
Getting acculturated
The more you know about French culture, the less the shock. Learn
everything you can about France including its history, geography, and
current affairs. Did you know that France has a high, but declining,
unemployment rate? That labor shortages exist and are predicted to
deepen? North Americans live in countries that are short on history
whereas France lives in its past. Find out about the French and how
they differ culturally from Anglo-Saxons. Don’t assume that the French
will adore your native customs. Some studies show that business and
social interactions with the French are among the most complicated on
the planet! Books by Polly Platt (www.pollyplatt.com) like French or Foe
or her newest one, Savoir Flair, will put you on the right social footing.
16
Adjusting to France
though babies attract a lot of attention. It’s easier if you live outside
Paris, are a student, have children in a French school, have a job in a
French or French-speaking company, or even have a dog! Dog walkers
love to compare notes. One of the best ways to meet French people is
through organizations, clubs, or associations. Ask at your local town
hall about area activities.
Useful links
France-Amérique, website: www.france-amerique.com. The American
edition of Le Figaro, published in New York.
17
Working and Living in France
18
Chapter Two
The Three-Month Dip
Anyone thinking about a move to Paris should first take a fact-find-
ing trip. I recommend a three-month stay, especially if you plan to find
a full-time job, establish a business, or become some other kind of per-
manent resident of Paris.
You may be saying something to the effect of, “I’ve been to Paris on
vacation. I was there for one week, 10 days, a month. It was great! I’d
love to move there.” But there is a big difference between being on vaca-
tion and actually living here, day in, day out, through damp gray win-
ters as well as “City of Light” summers. I’m sure you know the phrase,
“It’s a great place to visit...” Before you become a permanent resident,
take a dip. Consider it reconnaissance. A sabbatical. A splash of cold
water to bring some realism to the situation.
19
Working and Living in France
After your trial run, you will come to one of three revelations: that
you want to move here immediately, in the future, or not at all.
To prepare for her three-month trip, Mable blitzed the Internet. She
corresponded with people who already lived here. She found a house-
sitting opportunity for her first weeks in Paris, which gave her time to
find an apartment. She found the apartment by running into a French
man on the street who noticed that she was studying a map of Paris. She
also got involved at a non-profit association, helping it to develop its
first website. She had a great time in Paris and left forever a Francophile,
with the dream still in her heart.
20
The Three-Month Dip
21
Working and Living in France
22
The Three-Month Dip
If you must change foreign bills for euro, the least expensive place in
Paris to do so is at Changes et Monnaies, 34 rue Croix-des-Petits-Champs
in the 1st arrondissement, across the street from the Banque de France.
23
Working and Living in France
age 30 minutes door to door. Trains and buses will take you to most of
the famous sightseeing spots outside of the city. To save money, pur-
chase a monthly or weekly pass, called a carte orange (orange card). On
your first purchase, ask the subway clerk for the card plus materials for
the ID card. You assemble the ID card yourself with a passport-sized
photo. You may even purchase transit passes online on the RATP site
(www.ratp.fr). If you choose to drive, your U.S. driver’s license is legal in
France for the three-month tourist period.
24
The Three-Month Dip
France. Also, I came to realize that no matter how well I had integrated
into the French way of life, I would never be accepted as French and
would, therefore, always face certain barriers. The same barriers I faced
on my first day, which then seemed like a challenge, began to aggravate
me rather than fascinate me. Paris was always special, but its specialness
began to fade with time. The only way I could continue to keep it spe-
cial, while pursuing my career dreams, was to leave it.”
Useful links
• French Foreign Ministry, website: www.france.diplomatie.fr
/index.gb.html. Living, working, and studying in France.
25
Working and Living in France
26
Chapter Three
Learning the Lingo
“It is easy to learn to speak English badly. It is hard to learn to speak
French well.” There is a lot of truth to this French saying. English speak-
ers, in the U.S. at least, tolerate bad English. As a land of immigrants,
we have to. Speaking for myself, I don’t correct my fellow Americans
when they make grammatical mistakes. That is not the case in France.
While I feel my French is pas mal (pretty good) after 10 years here,
I am corrected frequently. One recent Sunday, the sales girl in our local
bakery again corrected my pronunciation of palmier (a type of pastry),
as I don’t articulate the “l” enough for her. It was embarrassing, as I
headed a queue that went out the door. Perhaps she thinks this is our
private joke. I would have preferred that the joke had remained private.
27
Working and Living in France
You’ll most likely get mixed reviews about Alliance Française. Their
prices are reasonable and I found the teachers with the intensive (full-
time) program to be excellent and professional. I was somewhat less
impressed with those who teach the extensive (part-time) program. The
full-time program involves four hours of class and an average of four
hours of homework per day. Aside from the courses, the Alliance has a
good language lab, a stimulating series of lectures on grammar and cul-
ture, a jobs office with plentiful postings, as well as a cheap cafeteria.
On the other hand, Alliance probably isn’t the best way to become func-
tionally French rapidly. Its classical, academic style, with a heavy focus
on the written word, is more suited to the younger student who plans
to go onto university or professional life in France. The other well-
known programs of this type in Paris are at Institut Catholique
(www.icp.fr/ilcf) and the Sorbonne (www.fle.fr/sorbonne/ang/intro.html).
28
Learning the Lingo
I also tried two conversation groups in Paris and have concluded that
conversation groups are a good and inexpensive complement to language
classes as well as a good way to meet Francophones informally. Plus,
there’s no homework. I participated with an ongoing group at WICE (free
to members) regularly for a few months. At this conversation group and
at Parler Parlor (www.parlerparlor.com), half the time is devoted to French
and the other half to English. Parler Parlor, now in its sixth year, is housed
at two professional language schools, Coprom Langues (www.coprom-
langues.fr) on Tuesdays and Thursdays, and Eurocentres (www.eurocen-
tres.com) on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Parler Parlor is run by Adrian
Leeds, author of the Leeds Good Value Guide to Paris Restaurants and
Elisabeth Crochard, a past director of Berlitz.
Tutors
Next I tried a professeur particulier (tutor). Although I told her I want-
ed conversational French, she insisted I study more grammar. Although I
learned a great deal from this teacher, I found the experience to be some-
what of a struggle. She was, however, more effective for my husband, who
can’t abide a classroom atmosphere and was only available after work
hours. I found an ad for this teacher on the bulletin board at WICE. You
can also find French teachers through classified ads in FUSAC, the Paris
Free Voice (www.parisvoice.com), and bulletin boards. The fee for private
tutors is 15 euro ($18) an hour and up. Teachers may charge less, but may
be working without credentials or en noir (under the table).
Language vacations
My husband and I also spent a two-week vacation learning French
at a school practicing what is referred to as the “immersion method.” It
was hardly a vacation! We picked La Ferme (www.la-ferme.com), a small
school set in an old farmhouse on France’s west coast near La Rochelle.
There were lessons in the mornings. Afternoons were usually free, but
we opted for lessons in the afternoon as well. We found little time to
complete our homework let alone go for an outing. As for results, the
school seemed to work better for my husband, a faux débutante (begin-
29
Working and Living in France
ner with some experience) who was speaking the subjunctive by the
end, than for me, the perennial intermediate.
Useful links
• SOUFFLE is a consortium of French schools and universities offer-
ing French language instruction, website: www.souffle.asso.fr.
30
Chapter Four
Residency and Work Permits
According to a press release dated Dec. 11, 2003, the French Prime
Minister, Jean-Pierre Raffarin, organized a meeting among the other gov-
ernment ministers to discuss taking measures toward “enhancing the
appeal of France” among foreigners. Though initially somewhat vague,
this statement quickly led to the dawning of a new French policy in
which expatriates would be termed “impatriates.”
31
Working and Living in France
How do I apply?
If you are a U.S. citizen who wants to live in France for more than
three months, you must apply for a visa—advance permission from the
French government that is obtained at the closest French consulate in
your home country or current country of residence—before you move
to France. You need a visa whether you want to work, study, or just
hang out here. If you apply for a visa to work in France, you must show
proof of a job, and once you land here, you’ll need to register with the
police and obtain a carte de séjour (residency card).
If you peruse job ads, you may see references to the need for French
work permits or working papers. These terms are misleading. Your res-
idency permit, stamped or noted salarié (salaried), doubles as a work
permit, but the term “working papers” is the shorthand. Ads requiring
working papers mean that the employer is unable or unwilling to “spon-
sor” you and obtain working papers on your behalf.
Read on for more information about visas and carte de séjours. One
of my main sources of information was Ernst & Young’s publication,
Worldwide Immigration: An Executive Guide. A special thanks goes to
partner Jack Anderson for letting me cite this information as needed. In
addition, I quoted Jean Taquet’s e-letter, especially about the new law
regarding immigration, often called the “loi Sarkozy,” that was passed on
November 26, 2003. To sign up for the newsletter, send an e-mail to Mr.
Taquet at: qa@jeantaquet.com.
32
Residency and Work Permits
Tourist visas
U.S. citizens visiting France for 90 days or less do not need a visa.
Americans might say they are in France on a “tourist visa,” but this
notion is more virtual than real. Even if French passport control doesn’t
stamp your passport, it doesn’t mean you have an open-ended visa. If
you are stopped by the police, it’s up to you to prove you are in the
country legally and may be expected to present the return portion of
your airline ticket. Keep in mind that, in France, the presumption of
innocence is a new concept.
Carte de séjour
There are several kinds of cartes de séjour including: visiteur (visi-
tor), salarié (salaried worker), membre de famille (family member of carte
de séjour holder), étudiant (student), scientifique (researcher or universi-
ty lecturer), and profession artistique et culturelle (artists and people in the
arts). The carte de séjour is good for one year. Don’t let your permit
expire; reapply two months prior to the expiration date. When my hus-
band and I were applying for our most recent residency permit, we had
let the old one lapse. We erroneously thought that simply leaving the
country and re-entering would automatically give us tourist status for
three additional months. The clerk at the prefecture scolded us for this
illegality then went back to processing our new residency card. Whew!
At renewal, be ready to show proof that you’ve filed a declaration
(French income tax return). After three consecutive years with a carte de
séjour, you may be eligible for a carte de résident (permanent residency
permit), which is valid for 10 years and provides the bearer with the
right to work.
33
Working and Living in France
The paperwork
The path to obtaining a residency permit is strewn with a great deal
of paper. The most common documents requested are:
34
Residency and Work Permits
Within eight days after arrival in France, you must present your
documentation to the local prefecture or town hall in order to acquire a
carte de séjour. In Paris, you must first visit the appropriate Centre de
Réception des Etrangers (Center for the Reception of Aliens), of which
there are several, depending on where you live in Paris and whether you
are applying as an EU citizen, student, or businessperson. For the
appropriate center, see the website for the Prefecture de Police Paris
(www.paris.pref.gouv.fr). For basic information, you can also visit the pre-
fecture in Paris at 1, rue de Lutèce (place Louis Lépine) in the 4th
arrondissement. After entering through security, there is an acceuil (wel-
come desk) that can field basic questions and direct you to the right
place. If you live outside of Paris, inquire at the local police station or
mairie (town hall) about where to apply.
35
Working and Living in France
If you are already in France legally on one type of residency card and
want to change to another, go to your prefecture for more information.
36
Residency and Work Permits
him or her from the carte de commerçant étranger (foreign traders’ card)
requirements. After 10 years of residing in France with cartes de séjour,
the holder may respectfully demand a carte de résident. Unfortunately,
any years residing in France on a student visa will not be counted
toward the 10-year requirement. Also, keep in mind that France now
counts each year worked illegally against the applicant for the 10-year
card. “This provision makes it almost impossible for illegal aliens to get
legal status,” says Jean Taquet, “since almost all need to work, one way
or another, to survive in France.”
Carte de commercant
Foreign traders’ cards (cartes de commerçant étranger) are compul-
sory for non-EU individuals who do business in France and who hold
the positions of president or general manager of société anonyme (joint
stock companies) or société à résponsabilité limitée (limited liability com-
panies) regardless of whether they reside in France. The carte de com-
merçant étranger requirement also applies to non-EU commercial agents
and representatives of liaison offices. If such an individual wishes to
reside in France, he or she must apply for a visa de long séjour (long-term
visa) to be issued by the French consulate nearest his or her residence
abroad. The application must be made simultaneously with the appli-
cation for the carte de commerçant étranger. The procedure takes up to
three months from the date of filing with the French authorities.
However, it is possible to obtain temporary authorization within two or
three weeks after receipt of the application. If the applicant intends to
reside in France, the application is filed with the French consulate near-
est the applicant’s place of residence abroad. If the applicant does not
intend to reside in France, the application is filed directly with the rel-
evant prefecture in France. A carte de commerçant étranger is valid initial-
ly for one year and may be renewed indefinitely.
37
Working and Living in France
Becoming an EU national
If you, your parents, or grandparents were born in an EU country,
you may be eligible for a passport from that country. Ireland, for exam-
ple, grants grandchildren of Irish-born nationals an Irish passport. If
your spouse or common-law partner retains the right to live and work
in France, you may also be so entitled.
Thus, it is especially important that one follow the rules before coming
to France with one’s French spouse. It is advisable to apply for a long-stay
visa upon entering France and then apply for a carte de résident (permanent
residency card carrying the right to work), but you may also enter as a
tourist and then apply for the residency card. U.S. citizens intending to
come to France to marry and take up residence in France for more than
three months should apply for a visa de long séjour pour mariage (long-stay
visa for marriage). Those on a tourist visa may marry provided they comply
with French law. At least one party to the marriage must have resided in
France for 40 days preceding the date of the civil ceremony. In France, a
civil ceremony is required before any religious one.
38
Residency and Work Permits
Becoming an au pair
France has special programs and procedures for people who want
to work as au pairs. They must obtain a visa de long séjour as a stagiaire
aide familiale (family help assistant) from the French consulate in their
home country. Au pairs should arrange a contract directly with a French
family or through an agency. This contract must be approved by the
Service de la Main d’Oeuvre Etrangère (Foreign Labor Branch) of the
French Ministry of Labor. After arriving in France, the au pair must
apply for a residency permit within eight days after which he or she
returns to the Service de la Main d’Oeuvre for a temporary work permit.
It isn’t possible to come to France as a tourist and then apply for au pair
status. However, those who have student status can switch to au pair
status after arrival in France. An au pair must be between the ages of 18
and 30. The length of stay is usually one year. Because an au pair is
looked on as a student who works, knowledge or study of French dur-
ing his or her stay in France is required. Work will be limited to 30
hours per week.
39
Working and Living in France
Détaché status
Individuals sent to France by companies located outside the coun-
try may obtain détaché status. These individuals must remain on the
payroll of the foreign company and may not stay in France longer than
60 months. This status is extended primarily to those seconded for the
purpose of providing technical assistance and auditing services, or for
performing reporting functions. Employees with détaché status should
receive an autorisation provisoire de travail (temporary work permit) valid
for nine months, as well as a carte de séjour temporaire (temporary resi-
dence permit) valid for the same period of time. However, in most of
these cases, an expatriate receives a carte de séjour, valid for one year,
and a temporary work permit, valid for nine months. Both are renew-
able for the duration of the assignment.
Becoming a student
Under certain conditions, foreign students in France who are not
EU nationals may obtain temporary work permits that authorize them
to work up to 19.5 hours per week. To work during the school year, stu-
dents must provide evidence of economic necessity. Students are only
permitted to work full-time during the summer and must prove their
registration at a qualified educational institution in France or elsewhere.
A student is defined as one who is currently enrolled at, or is a recent
graduate of, an institution of higher learning. (See the Education chap-
ter for information on enrollment.)
If you are a student in the U.S., the easiest way to find work is
through an agency such as the Council for International Education
Exchange (www.ciee.org), which assists participants in finding three-
40
Residency and Work Permits
41
Working and Living in France
42
Residency and Work Permits
Retiring to France
Yes, it is possible to retire to France. To this end, you would apply
for a long-term visa at the nearest French consulate in your home coun-
try after which you would obtain a carte de séjour visiteur. To prove you
have the financial means, statements from your pension plan should be
enough to satisfy the authorities. Be sure that your health plan covers
you in France, or obtain a suitable French plan.
43
Working and Living in France
“How You Can Lose Your U.S. Social Security Retirement Benefits:”
www.overseasdigest.com/odsamples/foreigntest.html.
44
Residency and Work Permits
Useful links
• Embassy of France in the U.S., website: www.info-franceusa.
org/visitingfrance. Information on full-time work, assistantships,
student part-time, and au-pair work.
45
Working and Living in France
46
Chapter Five
Job-Hunting in France
Now that you know a bit about the legalities of living and working
here, it’s time to find a job. Because you’re competent and well-educat-
ed, you’re probably thinking it won’t be too difficult. While I don’t want
to dampen your enthusiasm, I must warn you to be realistic. I came to
France, like so many others in my situation, thinking that it would be a
cinch to snatch a full-time job.
If you do have the right to work and live in France and your French
is excellent, your job search will be like any normal one. If you don’t
have the right to live and work here, first see if your situation lets you
take advantage of any special rules and exemptions to the work visa
rules mentioned in the previous chapter. If you don’t have the right to
work and live here, your job search may be long and difficult––though
not impossible. Take the three-month dip and network in France.
Realize that you may have an easier time finding a job in a high-demand
sector such as the high-technology or hospitality industries. Read on for
a few suggestions on maximizing possibilities in your home country:
47
Working and Living in France
Salaries
While salaries are generally lower in France than in the U.S., the
cost of living is lower and social services broader and deeper here. The
co-payments for such services are taken directly out of one’s paycheck
in the U.S. According to a survey by the magazine Courrier Cadres, an
annual salary of 80,000 euro ($98,000) nets 71% for a couple with
two children (before taxes). For that same family, an annual salary of
160,000 euro ($195,000) nets 64%. In France, people don’t usually
talk about their salaries as it’s generally considered bad taste. But when
they do, it’s usually talked about in monthly rather than yearly terms.
Also, the French tend to talk in either brut (gross) or net (take-home
pay not including income taxes), depending on whether they are brag-
ging about their job or complaining about taxes. According to the
Courrier Cadres survey, the median salary for a cadre (managerial or
executive position) is 45,700 euro ($56,000) per year. Approximately
62% of cadres receive a perk in the form of equipment, such as a com-
puter for home use, or a car. Nevertheless, a mere 8% report that they
are satisfied with their salaries. For the full survey, see Enquête
Rémunérations 2002 on the Cadres Courrier website
(www.apec.fr/index_infosmarche.html). For information on the compar-
ative cost of living in France see Finfacts Worldwide 2002 Cost of Living
Survey (www.finfacts.ie/costofliving1.htm).
48
Job-Hunting in France
49
Working and Living in France
50
Job-Hunting in France
51
Working and Living in France
The basic tools of the job hunt, the resumé and cover letter, are the
same here in principle but different in form. Curiously, the French word
resumé isn’t used to refer to a summary of job qualifications; the coun-
try prefers the Latin term CV for curriculum vitae. French CVs are usu-
ally more classic in style than U.S. ones. Look at French CVs on the Web
for pointers. Cadres Online (French Managers Online) (www.cadreson-
line.com) has good tips. You may be surprised to learn that you must dis-
close your age and marital status––even affix a photo––on the CV. You’ll
also find that your lettre de motivation (cover letter) is preferred hand-
written in fountain pen.
If you get an interview, be well prepared before you cross that cul-
tural threshold. Realize that the average French person is more formal,
52
Job-Hunting in France
Tracy’s story
“During my first year in France I was on a tourist visa. Every three
months I left the country long enough to get a stamp in my passport.
During this time I worked illegally doing odd jobs, such as nanny or
sales clerk. My situation changed when I got married to a French man.
The week after the wedding, I got a récépissé de demande de carte de
séjour. I had this paper, a receipt good for six months proving my
request for a carte de séjour. At the end of this period I received my carte
de séjour from the Departement de Travail.
“On this card, as many people will tell you, it was marked that it
was not an authorization to work. This causes many misconceptions.
With this card you have the right to work if you can find a company
who is willing to give you a promesse d’embauche. This is just a paper
that says the company is willing to hire you if the Departement de
Travail will issue the correct papers. With this promesse d’embauche a
work permit is issued, usually within a week.
“One catch that I encountered is that this work permit is issued for
a six-month period with the name of the company wishing to hire you
indicated. If you decide to change jobs during this six-month period, as
I did, you need to get a new promesse d’embauche. Although this is per-
fectly legal, many companies don’t know the procedure and are a bit
skeptical about doing it. It is my experience that large foreign compa-
nies are more used to dealing with this and much more willing to go
through the process. For employers who are a bit unsure, all you need
to do is convince them that it’s a very simple formality.
53
Working and Living in France
“After one year of being married I was able to request a carte de residence,
which is good for 10 years and allows me to work without restrictions.”
Veronica’s story
“I came to Paris on a tourist visa to study French at a language
school in Paris. Having no stamp in my passport that proved the date of
my arrival, I was not forced to leave the country every three months for
a stamp. Although I suppose this could have caused problems, I never
encountered any.
“The mother of a friend worked at the Paris prefecture and she told
us what she thought was the best solution. My employers posted an
announcement at the ANPE (French unemployment office) for my posi-
tion for two months. At the end of this period, having found no suitable
French candidate, a demand was made for work papers. The usual
round of paperwork was dealt with and, about two months later, we
received a positive response.
“My carte de séjour is subject to renewal each year but, after paying
taxes for three years, I will have the right to ask for a carte de résident.
Of course actually having this little card entitled me to many experi-
ences with the French bureaucracy to get my social security card,
renewing my carte de séjour, etc. If I’ve learned one thing it’s to never
54
Job-Hunting in France
throw anything away; save about 10 copies of every scrap of paper that
you receive during your stay in France. No matter how illogical it may
seem you will probably need them.”
Andrea’s story
“I first came to Paris in 1990 with my boyfriend. I had to work
because we were broke…I did so illegally, teaching English. I was
enrolled at the Sorbonne to learn French, but that doesn’t allow you to be
a student in the real sense of the term, and get the authorization to work
20 hours a week. So the following year I enrolled in Nanterres in English
literature. I continued to work for the same place, but this time, legally.
“For me, the most important thing was to be able to live in France
legally, then get the right to work. Although I wasn’t supposed to, I came
back to France with him on a tourist visa while he made a demand for
a regroupement familial.
“The company hired a lawyer to help us out with the process. The
lawyer was difficult and very expensive, but good because she had
connections. The process took about 10 months. During that time, I
had to leave the country every three months. My lawyer advised me
not to put my name on anything. After I got my working papers, it
took me a while to find a job I really wanted. I could have easily gone
back to teaching English.”
Pamela’s story
“I came to Paris in ‘95 to escape corporate America and with the
hope that I could find a good job here and a more balanced lifestyle. I
had heard that CIEE (Council International Educational Exchange) was
a great resource if you’re a recent graduate, which I was not, but I was
55
Working and Living in France
“I hit the pavement and went to several restaurants and bars with
not much luck. It was February and most places wanted someone they
knew they could keep on staff for more than three months. I was con-
stantly told to come back for the summer season. Then, by chance, I
heard there was a data-entry position for an English speaker at an inter-
national organization. I saw this as an opportunity to stay in France
legally (international organizations are authorized to give cartes spéciales
for their employees as they are not obligated to conform to French hir-
ing laws) and with a salary, giving me the time to keep looking. At first,
I had only three-month contracts that were never certain to be renewed,
but after the first nine months, I was given a six-month contract.
“At this point, I had been in Paris for 17 months and made the
decision to devote all of my energies outside my job to finding what I
really wanted—something in marketing or communications in a pro-
fessional capacity––and if I didn’t find anything by the time my con-
tract expired, I’d go back to the States. I had not been very serious
about my professional job search prior to this decision and knew that,
if I returned to the U.S. without making a substantial effort, I’d never
forgive myself.
“From my experience, I can say that being willing to accept all types
56
Job-Hunting in France
Useful links
• JobUniverse, website: www.jobuniverse.fr. For high-tech jobs in France.
• IKEA, website: www.ikea.fr.
• Initiatives Emploi, website: www.init-emploi.tm.fr. A French jobs website.
• Cadre Emploi, website: www.cadremploi.tm.fr. French jobs site for
managers and executives.
57
Working and Living in France
58
Chapter Six
Creating a Business
Setting up a business can mean many things, from being self-
employed––that includes freelancers and consultants––to creating a
corporation. As unemployment is still high in France, the country is
keen to attract companies, which are seen as investment and job cre-
ators. France does an excellent job of attracting multinational compa-
nies but largely ignores the power of small business to create jobs.
Consultant or company?
Many expats get stuck in the belief that becoming a consultant or
self-employed travailleur indépendant (independent worker) is the best
avenue to securing legal and profitable work status in France. It is for
some, especially those serious businesspersons who intend to remain in
France for at least several years and can count on pulling in revenue that
is about double their living expenses. However, many people don’t fully
realize that a consultant must, as do all self-employed persons and busi-
nesses in France, pay burdensome French social charges, health insur-
ance premiums, pension payments, as well as professional, income and
value-added taxes. Also, small-business people are often seen as poten-
tial tax cheats. It’s a different mentality than in the U.S., for example,
where freelancing is fairly common. Thus, becoming an independent is
not always a viable solution. To illustrate that point, we offer the fol-
lowing case study.
Stuart’s dilemma
When Stuart, a Paris-based TV producer, realized a few years back
that being a travailleur indépendant had been a big mistake, he found
himself so inextricably tied to the French system that it took him
59
Working and Living in France
months to win back his freedom. “It’s like putting yourself into the lion’s
den,” says Stuart, a native of Britain. Forming a company may be more
appropriate for some self-employed people.
There is at least one drawback for U.S. citizens who choose to cre-
ate a company. Such individuals must report their business earnings to
French tax authorities as well as to the U.S. Internal Revenue. “In addi-
tion, owners of foreign companies have to attach to their U.S. individ-
ual tax return a form that essentially presents their corporate financial
data in U.S. terms,” Mr. Okoshken says. “It can be expensive, but there
are penalties for not doing it.”
60
Creating a Business
Independent status may well suit you for the short-term, but you’ll
most likely want to start a proper business at some point. After several
years as a travilleur indépendant, Katherine, a translator, “finally decided
to incorporate myself, to save on taxes and social charges. However, that
is only because my business is going so well, so I can hardly complain.
I still think it was a good idea to start as an indépendant, as I had no idea
whether I would actually make any money or not. In addition, I’ve
acquired personal assets (a house, car, etc.), and I need the protection
of a limited liability company.”
Once you have your carte de séjour, signing up is the easy part.
URSSAF takes applications directly for non-commercial independents,
61
Working and Living in France
Keep in mind that your payments into the French social security sys-
tem start immediately. The bills will start coming one to three months after
the application is filed. It’s difficult to generalize how much the average tra-
vailleur indépendant can expect to pay out in charges and taxes as many
depend on net revenue (i.e. earnings after expenses). Some independents
suggest a budget of approximately 2,900 euro ($3,500) for the first year,
even if income is zero. As a simple rule of thumb, independents should set
aside 40% of total earnings to pay charges and taxes other than income tax.
Should they earn no income, independents will still be expected to pay sig-
nificant flat or minimum charges. Those considering becoming travailleurs
indépendants are advised to project their charges and taxes and to be aware
of all bookkeeping requirements beforehand.
62
Creating a Business
Madelin” (Madelin Law) that came into effect in 1994. If net is greater
than 9,500 euro, the charge is 12.85% of net less 30% for those in the
second year of business. There are four caisses maladies to choose from,
but all tend to offer similar services: a 50% reimbursement on routine
medical services and 100% on maternity and long-term hospitalization.
Last but not least are the tax collectors. The Direction General des
Impôts collects income tax as well as value-added tax (TVA) and audits
travailleurs indépendants.
63
Working and Living in France
Creating a company
There are a variety of corporate structures in France of which the
most common are:
64
Creating a Business
France has tried to trim the red tape with the creation of Centres de
Formalités des Entreprises (Business Formalities Centers)
(www.ccip.fr/cfe/sommaire/sommaire.htm). It’s almost a one-stop shop for
creating a business. The CFE handles all necessary registrations with
governmental agencies. There are still some formalities you must han-
dle yourself: registering with the tax authorities; and depositing the
share capital. Dealing directly with a CFE shouldn’t be a problem if your
French is good and you have time for the paperwork. Otherwise, there
is no dearth of advisers, lawyers, and agencies who can help you for a
fee. We recommend Jean Taquet, who is the author of the Insider Guide
to Practical Answers for Living in France. For personal consultation, con-
tact Jean Taquet, e-mail: taquet@insiderparisguides.com. Contact infor-
mation for other lawyers is available in the Guide for U.S. Citizens
Residing in France published by the U.S. Embassy in Paris. The Agence
pour la Création d’Entreprise (www.apce.com) maintains a multi-lingual
website and is a valuable resource for basic information. Two outstand-
65
Working and Living in France
Creating an association
Creating a non-profit association is relatively easy in France.
Because non-profits enjoy substantial tax breaks, there are many abuses
of the classification. We’ve heard of expats who have formed associa-
tions for the sole purpose of ensuring themselves a job. Sam Okoshken
strongly advises against the practice and says, “It is not intended to be
used by a commercial or other profit-seeking enterprise. In any event,
directors or officers of the association may not receive a salary or any
other form of remuneration from the association.” We don’t want to
scare people who have a legitimate reason to associate. Many educa-
tional, sports, religious, cultural, and philanthropic organizations oper-
66
Creating a Business
ate legally as nonprofits. Keep in mind that you cannot become eligible
for a residency card by creating an association as a for-profit business.
Here are the basics: People can organize into nonprofit associations
freely and without declaring themselves to the government, even if
some or all of their members are foreigners. However, to exist legally, be
eligible for aid, buy or sell in its name, or seek justice, an association
must be declared. Making a declaration by dossier to the local préfecture,
is simple, fast, and free. The dossier should include basic information
on the association, its officers and administrators, as well as copies of
the association’s statutes. You may also need to declare your association
at a CFE if you have employees or if your products or services are tax-
able. If your dossier is in order, the préfecture will issue the association
proof of your declaration within five days, after which you can request
publication in the Invest in Journal Officiel (www.journal-officiel.gouv.fr),
the French government journal that makes it all legal. Inclusion in the
journal will cost approximately 45 euro ($55).
Useful links
• CCIP, website: www.ccip.fr. Chambre de Commerce et d’Industrie de
Paris (The Paris Chamber of Commerce).
• Centragest-Libéral, website: www.centragestliberal.com. An association
agréée for professions libérales (non-regulated self-employed workers).
67
Working and Living in France
68
Chapter Seven
Making the Move
If you are moving to France permanently, the general rule is that
you may bring your “personal and household effects” without incurring
duties. Of course, there is paperwork involved, particularly with respect
to pets and cars. Please see the Embassy of France in the U.S. website
for conditions: www.ambafrance-us.org/intheus/customs/1000.asp. The
general idea is that you are going to use these items for personal use,
rather than sell them for profit, and that you’re not going to bring in
drugs, firearms, and other dangerous products. The rules are entirely
different if you are importing new goods for sale. For those coming
into France on a carte de séjour visiteur with a substantial number of
personal effects, legal adviser Jean Taquet recommends requesting a
demande de franchise (waiver of customs) from the French consulate
that issues the visa.
69
Working and Living in France
Lamps purchased in the U.S. will work here with a change in the
plug and a French light bulb; no transformer is needed. Newer PCs and
other computer electronics sold in the U.S. are dual voltage and gener-
ally don’t need transformers. You will, however, need French plugs and
cables. A surge protector purchased in France is recommended. Of
course, battery-powered items will work just fine here. As one reader of
WLIF noted with respect to power tools, “For some, the charger worked
with the transformer. For others, I found the equivalent local charger,
which still was less expensive than the tool. For the power tools, I
bought new ones. Just as with kitchen appliances, things are made dif-
ferently here, and it has been a joy to experience European tools. U.S.
tools will work with a transformer, [though] slightly slower” (due to the
difference in cycles).
70
Making the Move
of the item or ask the manufacturer. Newer devices may tolerate a range
of volts and cycles that work in both the U.S. and Europe. Also visit the
following informative websites about buying transformers, multi-sys-
tem TVs and VCRs, dual-voltage appliances, plug adapters, and tele-
phone conversion jacks:
Finding a mover
Unless you have few belongings, most people opt for contracting
with a moving company to ship their goods abroad. We recommend
71
Working and Living in France
Keep in mind that the moving company will not insure items you
pack yourself. A good moving company can offer advice on customs
and the required French paperwork, such as the inventaire detaillé
(detailed inventory), which is a list of all your items going into France.
Also see the section below on pets.
Relocation companies
Relocation companies offer services, which range from finding
accommodations to assisting in car, appliance, and furniture purchases.
These companies can also provide information on schools and the com-
munity. Some well-known relocation companies are:
72
Making the Move
The company, for an additional fee, can also set up cable TV, a
maintenance contract for the furnace, a neighborhood orientation tour,
and a school search. Ms. Morales says very few individuals contract with
the company. It’s mostly companies who provide the service for employ-
ees moving to France. One little known service that Cocitra provides for
certain clients is “Loca-Pass,” the rental guarantee and the security
deposit that is usually equivalent to two months’ rent. The service is
geared for employees of companies, people under 30, and students.
(Note: Diana has moved onto another job, but we’ve retained her com-
ments because they describe the process so well.)
73
Working and Living in France
Finding accommodations
Finding a rental is difficult in France because there is no single real-
estate market and no central information service as such. We suggest
you search the Internet, scour the classified ads, and make the rounds
of the real-estate agents. With regard to Paris, look at the classified ads
in the following publications: Le Figaro (www.lefigaro.fr), France-Soir,
(www.francesoir.fr), FUSAC (www.fusac.fr), and De Particulier à Particulier
(Person to Person) (www.pap.fr).
Reading a classified ad
Here’s a typical ad that we’ll decode for you.
3-4 pieces meuble metro exelmans dans un bel immeuble ancien avec
ascenceur, digicode, bel appartement compose d’une entree, d’un sejour, d’une
salle a manger, d’une cuisine entierement equipee lave et seche linge, lave
vaisselle, fours plaques, frigo et congelateur, pres des commerces et des trans-
ports. Cabinet joujon
This ad is for a three to four room apartment near the Métro stop
Exelmans in a beautiful old building with elevator and a coded access
at the door. This “beautiful apartment” is comprised of a foyer, a living
room, a dining room, a fully equipped kitchen (a nice bonus!) includ-
ing a washer and dryer, oven, stovetop, refrigerator, and freezer. It’s near
shops and transportation. Agent: Cabinet Joujon.
Temporary lodgings
If you are on a three-month dip or need time to find your long-term
apartment, you’ll probably opt for temporary lodgings in France. There
are three options: a cheap hotel, a residence hotel, or an apartment. The
latter is hard to find for a term beyond one week and less than one year
because these rentals aren’t lucrative for the owner. Residence hotels
and apartments come equipped with kitchens, which makes dining at
74
Making the Move
Long-term rentals
Rental prices in Paris are a benchmark for the country. In the big
city, it’s now a seller’s market. There is a shortage of desirable rentals,
especially for two-bedroom apartments. The price for an apartment is
around 20 euro per square meter ($2.30 per square foot), according to
the magazine De Particulier à Particulier, www.pap.fr. The cheapest
arrondissements were the 18th, 19th, and 20th, and the most expensive
was the 6th. Cheaper rents apply outside of city limits and in other parts
of France. The monthly rental charge doesn’t usually include charges,
which are fees covering utilities common to the building, such as water,
elevator maintenance costs, and rental taxes. It is the tenant’s responsi-
bility to pay for the annual checks of individual apartment furnaces or
chimneys and the municipal taxe d’habitation (property tax). Note that,
in France, leases usually run for three years. If that scares you, note that
tenants can terminate a lease with one to three months’ notice should
their employment situation change.
75
Working and Living in France
No matter where you live, landlords will want to know that you
can afford the rent. Either you must have the bucks yourself or have a
guarantor. It is not out of the question for the landlord to ask for one
year’s rent in advance. At the signing of the lease, be prepared with a
caution (deposit) of one to two months, a one-month advance, and the
agency fees (often one-month rental). Comprehensive household
insurance is mandatory. The housing situation in Paris is so tight that
your application might be refused just because you are a foreigner. As
such, be prepared to commit as soon as you see the apartment. House
rentals, while uncommon in Paris, may be found in the suburbs and
in other parts of the country.
Similarly, via the web, find the nearest office of France Telecom
(www.francetelecom.com to hook up telecommunications service). Since
this site can be difficult to navigate if your French is iffy, don’t hesitate
to avail of the company’s free English-language help line at 0800-36-47-
75. To open an account, you’ll generally be required to produce a copy
of your lease, your passport, and an RIB (see the section on Paying bills)
76
Making the Move
Paying bills
There are various ways to pay utility and other recurring bills. Most
people pay by prélèvement automatique from a euro bank account. To set
one up, the payee must request a relevé d’identité bancaire (RIB), a tear-
out form in the back of a French checkbook that lists account and bank
numbers. For its part, the bank requires a written request for the
prélèvement automatique. The money you owe is automatically taken out
of your bank account each payment period. We pay our landlord, EDF,
and one France Telecom bill using this method and have never had a
problem with the service.
You may also pay by check, money order, or in cash at the post
office. The post office will charge a nominal fee for cash payments.
France Telecom will accept Carte Bleue and foreign credit cards at its
office at 123, rue La Fontaine in the 16th arrondissement and at 57, rue
des Archives in the 3rd.
77
Working and Living in France
Internet access
Internet access is available through the telephone lines as well as by
cable. If you want cable access, your choice is set, as cable operators
have monopolies over certain areas. Noos (www.noos.fr) (formerly
Cybercâble) operates in the Paris area. Câble Wanadoo (France
Telecom) (www.cablewanadoo.com/portail/pg_intro.htm) operates
throughout Marseille. Other players include Numéricâble (www.numer-
icable.com) and Chello (www.chello.com).
How to choose between cable and telephone access? If you are con-
sidering standard access through your telephone line, keep in mind that
you will have to pay for each telephone call made. Local calls are not
included in the monthly fee. Count on higher bills if you live in a
remote location and must make a toll call to access the net. Local tele-
phone service is about two euro ($2.44) an hour at peak rates and one
euro ($1.22) an hour off-peak. France Telecom does offer discounts that
benefit frequent users such as their Primaliste service, which offers sav-
ings up to 25% on frequently dialed numbers. Some Internet service
providers now offer packages that include the underlying telephone
service. France Telecom’s Wanadoo service, for example, offers 10 hours
of access at 8 euro ($10) a month and up to 60 hours for 23 euro ($28).
78
Making the Move
If you are in France for 90 days or less (i.e. on a tourist visa), you
may drive with your home country license. An international driving
79
Working and Living in France
permit alone won’t do. However, it is suggested that you carry an inter-
national license (or a bona fide French translation of your permit) along
with the home license. Beware of scam artists! The U.S. State
Department has authorized only two sellers of International permits:
the AAA (www.aaa.com/scripts/WebObjects.dll/ZipCode) and the American
Automobile Touring Alliance club (www.nationalautoclub.com). The fee
for an international license is $10. If you reside in France for more than
90 days (i.e. on a carte de séjour), your home license is valid for a one-
year period beginning from the date your residency permit becomes
valid. This period is intended to give you time to obtain your French
driver’s license. Students are entitled to drive with their home country
permit for the duration of their studies.
If you are entitled to legally drive with a license from one of these
states or provinces, apply for a French driver’s license at your local pré-
fecture in your French city of residence at least three months before the
recognition period expires. If your home government doesn’t have an
agreement, perhaps you can lobby for one.
80
Making the Move
Pets
Note that pets are not subject to quarantine upon entering France
such as they are in the U.K. However, they will need up-to-date rabies
shots and medical checkups. You’ll need to start the process at least four
months ahead of time. See the Embassy of France in the U.S. website at
www.ambafrance-us.org/intheus/customs/7000.asp for full information and
printable health certificates. A representative from the airline will most
likely check that the paperwork is in order. As such, it’s advisable to
contact your airline with respect to what paperwork is required. Our cat
needed a checkup and current rabies shot after which she was required
to wear a collar with a rabies tag. We were required to carry a rabies cer-
tificate and transport her in an airline-approved case (available in most
pet stores). While airline personnel did review our paperwork, we
cleared customs with a wave. If your animal is small enough to fit under
your seat, the airline may allow you to take the pet on board. I’ve heard
horror stories about animal fatalities in cargo compartments, but our cat
survived the trip. A pet tranquilizer can limit the stress.
Good quality pet food is more expensive in Paris than in the U.S. and
can be purchased through your veterinarian or pet shop. One problem
expats have, as they travel widely, is finding pet sitters. A friend of mine
81
Working and Living in France
had a great experience with Michael House, who runs a business called
Expat Petsitting (http://mapage.noos.fr/expatpetsitting). I can personally rec-
ommend the Clinique Vétérinaire du Dr. Gittins, 47 rue St. Charles, 15th
arrondissement, tel. (331)40-59-04-76. Dr. Gittins speaks English.
Useful links
• Insider Guide to Good Value Paris Hotels, website:
www.insiderparisguides.com.
82
Chapter Eight
Education
It’s a nightmare for many an English-speaking maman to even think
about sending her little ones to school in France. In her book French
Toast, Harriet Welty Rochefort (www.hwelty.com) writes, “American
mothers with children in French schools are much more traumatized by
the whole experience than their kids are.” She sent her boys to French
public schools, from the age of two, and they survived admirably. One
is now in a grande école (a state-supported university for the elites) and
the other is attending a French university. Her witty book is recom-
mended reading for anyone who wants to understand the cultural
nuances of Franco-American family life.
83
Working and Living in France
84
Education
months, learned to get his own shoes. Samantha was impressed. “I start-
ed it suspicious,” she says, having considered crèche schooling in
response to a bad experience with in-home childcare for her eldest.
Now she is a fan. The crèche has been very supportive of her efforts to
continue to breastfeed, even if she is the only mom in the director’s
experience to try to do that! The staff also supports her decision to
speak English to her children. “They realize that being bilingual is a big
plus,” she says. (Her French husband speaks French to the children.)
There are several downsides, she admits, such as getting the kids out of
the house on time and finding babysitters when the kids are sick (a
common occurrence when children are first introduced to a school
environment). She also dislikes that the staff add sugar to the kids’
yogurt, but understands that this is the way many French kids have
their yogurt at home. To complement her kids’ French-speaking educa-
tion, Samantha takes them to Message Paris meetings and seeks out
English-speaking friends.
85
Working and Living in France
Secondary education
At the university level, French schools range from the world-
renowned Grandes Écoles to career-minded private business and other
vocational schools to the very academic public liberal arts university.
86
Education
eral arts in a no-frills fashion. Forget about the volleyball team, the glee
club, or Greek life. It’s academic, with little concern about an eventual
career or job. It can be overcrowded and lacking in many modern
amenities. French students complain of feeling lost during the first year;
there are no orientation programs. It’s sink or swim. Imagine the diffi-
culties for foreign students!
87
Working and Living in France
Study-abroad programs
Many students who live outside of France find the idea of spending
a month or more at a French university desirable. The good news is that
France, faced with a dramatic decline in foreign students, is now active-
ly seeking students from around the world. The Paris region also hosts
many MBA programs, including the world-renowned program at
INSEAD (www.insead.fr).
88
Education
Melissa adds, “I looked through the catalog and found the location
of the department I was interested in. I met with a professor specializ-
ing in the area I wanted. Even though my French wasn’t great, my
adviser thought the French Intensive Course at the Sorbonne wasn’t
necessary. I did it anyway.” Once the professor agreed to advise her,
Melissa was required to:
Melissa applied for her student visa at the Centre des Etudiants
Etrangers at 15, rue Miollis in the 15th arrondissement. She was required
to present the following documents: original and photocopy of univer-
sity registration; passport and visa, as well as photocopies of identifica-
tion pages; two black-and-white ID photos; a notarized letter in French
proving that she had enough money to support herself; and a letter in
French declaring that she had a health insurance policy valid in France.
Continuing education
Do take time to learn about French culture once you are here.
Become an expert on some aspect of French life: the wine, the cheese,
the women (or men!). Learning about wine or cheese, for example, is a
great introduction to the geographic diversity of France and the impor-
tance of its regions. Knowing how to talk “food” is a national pastime.
Many Americans, who live here but are ineligible to work, use their time
to develop a new career by taking advantage of the extensive network
89
Working and Living in France
If you just want to take a course here and there, many are offered
through the various English-language clubs and associations. There
are numerous guided visits in and around Paris as well as wine tasting,
cooking courses, and art history lectures. WICE is especially strong in
art history, creative writing and studio arts. At WICE, I learned how to
take a decent photo, paint in acrylics, and write poetry. I also learned
a great deal about French culture through tours to places such as the
French Assembly and the Louvre, as well as through workshops and
classes on wine, cooking, French art, and history offered at the famous
Gobelins tapestry.
90
Education
fessional development, and the arts. (On the main website, click
“Education” followed by “Cours Municipaux d’Adultes.”) The courses fill
quickly as they are popular and inexpensive. Advance registration is sug-
gested. If your spouse works, check with the workplace comités d’enterprise.
Distance learning
Whether you live in or outside Paris, distance learning or a low-res-
idency program from a university at home may be a desirable option.
Britain’s Open University (www.open.ac.uk/frames.html) is perhaps the
most highly regarded distance-learning institution. Many of these pro-
grams can be completed via the Internet. The British Institute in Paris
offers distance versions of many of its courses.
Volunteer learning
The city’s numerous English-language nonprofit groups and associ-
ations welcome volunteers and interns. In fact, many of them run exclu-
sively on volunteer power. These groups are a great way to transition to
French society and pick up career skills–– and they don’t cost a penny!
I learned desk-top publishing and managerial skills by volunteering at
the educational and nonprofit association WICE as catalog editor, Board
member, director of the Creative Writing Program, and now as co-direc-
tor of the Paris Writers Workshop.
Useful links
• Managing Children’s Education and Development Overseas,
website: www.tckworld.com/expated.html.
Elementary education:
• La Petite Ecole Bilingue (Paris), website: www.russie.net/parte-
naires/école-bilingue.
• Ecole Privé Bilingue Internationale (near Montpellier), website:
www.école-privee-bilingue.fr.
• Montessori En France, website: www.montessorienfrance.com/htmlé-
coles.htm. Montessori schools in Paris and France.
• Worldwide, website: www.worldwide.edu/ci/france/index.html.
91
Working and Living in France
Secondary education:
• Studies Office of the French Embassy in the U.S., www.info-
france-usa.org/culture/education/france/index.html.
• Study Abroad Handbook, www.studyabroad.com/handbook.
• Higher education in France, www.education.gouv.fr/int/etud.htm.
92
Chapter Nine
Health Care and Insurance
France has a mixed health care system which, while publicly run,
has many private elements. As such, there are public and private hospi-
tals; doctors can work for either or both. People with even the most
basic health care insurance may choose their doctors.
93
Working and Living in France
selves gods. If you can get over the attitude and can explain your mala-
dy in French to a physician, you should do just fine.
For many expatriates who aren’t part of the French system, the
essential question is how best to obtain health insurance that will be
valid in France? If you’re a short-timer or on the “three-month dip,” first
check with your home country plan to see whether and how it covers
in France. Blue Cross/Blue Shield, for example, is accepted by the
American Hospital of Paris. For short-timers, travel medical insurance
may be the best option. U.S. students will need to arrange for health
insurance coverage in France; the exchange program should be able to
help you with this. If you are on your own, the sécu’s annual premium
is less than $200 for students and covers about 70% of total costs. The
Randolph-Macon College offers excellent advice about obtaining stu-
dent health insurance on its study-abroad website, www.rmc.edu/
directory/academics/studyabroad/healthinsuranceletter.asp.
94
Health Care and Insurance
Finding doctors
95
Working and Living in France
Dentists
Having a baby
The French love babies and prenatal care here is tops. Maternity
and some fertility treatments are covered 100% by most health plans.
You’ll only pay for extras like the private room or the international calls
to grandma and grandpa. Message Mothers Support Group offers prepa-
ration for childbirth training courses in English. The French system
offers courses by midwives that are reimbursed by health insurance. An
indispensable publication in this regard is the 212-page book, the ABCs
of Motherhood in Paris, published by Message (www.messageparis.org).
96
Health Care and Insurance
Emergency services
Who says doctors don’t make house calls? They still do in France.
If you need a doctor fast, don’t hesitate to call a service like SOS
Medecins. In the Paris area, the number is (331)47-07-77-77. Another
similar service is Garde de Medical de Paris at (331)42-72-88-88. A
doctor can usually be dispatched within the hour. The American
Hospital has a hotline at (331)47-47-70-15.
Prescriptions
97
Working and Living in France
Alternative medicine
Useful links
98
Chapter Ten
The euro
The French still tend to think in terms of the old money, particu-
larly for large purchases such as real estate. You’ll often see two prices
on items––the euro price in large print with the French franc equivalent
noted in smaller print below. The government had recommended that
businesses dispense with double affichage (double pricing) after June
2002, but many have continued the practice.
Exchange rates
99
Working and Living in France
exchange rates. In 2000, the dollar was trading as high as 7.5 francs,
compared with 5.7 francs when we arrived here in 1994. This repre-
sents a 25% difference. As such, when we made our purchases in
Europe and the U.S. with dollars (even though we were paid in
francs), it was like receiving an automatic 25% discount. Now that the
euro is stronger, we try to pay for our purchases in France as well as
the U.S. in euro. Think about which currency you’re to be paid in,
which you’ll save, which you’ll spend as well as how you’ll take your
money with you when you return home.
Banking in France
The real money question for expats is banking. Not so long ago,
when French banks were state-run, the hours of business were less than
customer-friendly and the wait for service was long. With the advent of
privatization, French banks now have longer hours. Some even offer
evening and Saturday business hours. Automatic teller machines are
readily available and some banks offer online service. Still, attitudes
haven’t completely changed.
If you are here for three to five years, a compte courant and compte
sur livret (checking and savings accounts respectively) will suffice.
100
Money and Finance
In the back of your checkbook, you’ll find “RIB” slips to be used for
automatic deposits and payments. These relevés d’identité bancaire carry
bank, branch, and account details. Your employer will need one for
direct deposit of your pay. Utilities will ask for one for direct payment
of your bills. To pay your rent, most landlords require that you set up a
virement permanent (monthly automatic transfer) which can be arranged
through your bank.
Carte bleue
101
Working and Living in France
Shops, both small and large, either asked for exact change or permitted
the use of the Carte Bleue, even for the smallest of purchases. As a gen-
eral rule, a Carte Bleue is only accepted for purchases exceeding 15 euro
($16.20). Aside from an annual fee, there are no other charges for using
the card to pay for purchases or to withdraw cash. The Carte Bleue
works with a PIN for both purchases and withdrawals. Note that your
bank fixes a weekly withdrawal limit to thwart thieves. My husband and
I exceeded our limit at IKEA in Paris and, when our card was refused,
resorted to putting our purchases on our American credit card. To
increase your limit, consult your bank account manager.
Choosing a bank
My American friend Bettina, who has lived here for several years,
recently walked into her branch of CIC (www.cic-banques.fr) and over-
heard a clerk talking with the manager about whether to accept a new
client. “We don’t accept anyone who doesn’t speak French,” the manag-
er replied. As unfair as this may sound, banks in France, and CIC is no
exception, are under no obligation to accept you as a customer. North
Americans tend to feel as if a bank account is a God-given right. This is
not the case in France and, if you are a foreigner with no French credit
history and no apartment, you can expect to experience difficulty in
acquiring an account.
102
Money and Finance
Opening an account
103
Working and Living in France
Be careful about bank fees. Like other French banks, Citibank was
going to charge us an annual fee but I pointed out that, as a “global cus-
tomer,” I was already paying fees on the U.S. account and didn’t want
to pay twice. The French fee was eventually waived. We still do pay an
annual fee for the Carte Bleue as there’s no way around that.
A few years ago, we finally looked into investments and took the
plunge. We found a private financial adviser, Samina Arnoult, e-mail
samina.arnoult@wanadoo.fr, who has many expatriate clients and under-
stands our special needs. Per Samina’s advice, we set up a life-insurance
policy, which is invested in mutual funds.
104
Money and Finance
• Compte Sur Livret: 2% interest. As for the taxes, opt for withholding
25% of your interest. The top rate is 54%. This is the most com-
mon type of savings account.
• Livret A: Offered only through a Caisse d’Epargne, Credit Mutuel, or
La Poste. This popular tax-free account, with a maximum of 15,300
euro ($18,600), pays 2.25% interest.
• Codevi: maximum 4,600 euro ($5,600); 2.25% net annual return.
Two accounts are allowed per household: one in the name of the
taxpayer, one in the name of the partner.
• Compte Epargne Logement (CEL): Pays up to 3% on a deposit up to
15,300 euro ($18,600) and allows the holder to borrow against it
at 3.5% to finance real estate.
• Plan Epargne Logement (PEL): a four-year account paying 3.5% on a
deposit up to 61,200 euro ($74,500). This popular account allows
the holder to borrow against it at 4.97% to finance real estate.
• Sicav Monetaires: cash funds taxable at 26% when sold.
• Compte A Terme: fixed-rate term accounts with a 25% prélevement
liberatoire (obligatory withholding). Most large banks offer them in
several currencies. Consider this option if you want to bring money
to France without converting it into French francs.
105
Working and Living in France
106
Money and Finance
Things are changing, though, and the French banks are jumping on
the bandwagon with the onslaught of foreign customers. As a result,
loans are becoming easier to acquire. For information on buying a home
in France contact our real estate expert Jocelyn Carnegie at parisproper-
ty@InternationalLiving.com.
Useful links
Taxes
The U.S. is the only major country that taxes its citizens’ income
when they reside abroad. Even though all U.S. citizens, regardless of
where they live, must file U.S. tax returns, they are also required to file
with the French authorities when they reside here. U.S. expats, how-
ever, do get a couple of breaks: 1. They can file for automatic three-
month extensions of the filing deadline and 2. They automatically
receive a foreign earned income exclusion, which means that a set
amount of income (which changes yearly) earned abroad is exempt
from U.S. taxes. For details, search the IRS website (www.irs.gov) under
“foreign earned income exclusion.” U.S. expat associations like AARO
are fighting for a higher exclusion, but have met with substantial
resistance in Washington where expats are seen as tax cheats. Needless
to say, U.S. citizens who are legal residents of France also must file a
French income tax déclaration.
107
Working and Living in France
countries. Save those boarding passes and mark trips in your diary! If
you want to do your own taxes, AARO and other English-speaking
organizations in Paris host classes and lectures around tax time. AARO
publishes a helpful booklet, Basic Principles of Income Taxation, which is
free to members. The Internal Revenue Service at the U.S. Embassy in
Paris (www.amb-usa.fr/irs/irs.htm) has a great Internet site. Tax forms are
available at the U.S. Consulate and online. Banque Transatlantique also
offers a tax service for its clients.
Insurance
108
Chapter Eleven
English-Speaking Organizations
As you’ll see below, there are scores of English-speaking organiza-
tions in France. They have been established by people who saw a need
in the community and did something about it. Take advantage of all the
resources these groups offer. Why reinvent the wheel?
109
Working and Living in France
Alumni groups
110
English-Speaking Organizations
Charitable groups
111
Working and Living in France
112
English-Speaking Organizations
113
Working and Living in France
Religious institutions
• Adath Shalom, 8, rue George Bernard Shaw, 75015 Paris, tel. (331)45-
67-89-79; website: www.adathshalom.org. A Masorti (conservative)
Jewish community in Paris.
• American Cathedral, 23 avenue George-V, 75008 Paris, tel. (331)53-
23-84-00; website: www.us.net/amcathedral-paris. An Anglican
church with English, French, and Chinese services; hosts a number
of activities, clubs, and nonprofit organizations.
• American Church, 65 quai d’Orsay, 75007 Paris; tel. (331)40-62-05-
00; website: www.acparis.org. This interdenominational church
114
English-Speaking Organizations
Business groups
Veterans groups
115
Working and Living in France
116
English-Speaking Organizations
117
Working and Living in France
118
About the Author
Rose Marie Burke grew up in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. While in
high school, she put aside money from her part-time job at a bakery to
go on a class trip to Paris in 1977. That’s when she first fell in love with
France and all things foreign.
119
Working and Living in France
numerous questions she’s asked daily on the topic. Since the birth of her
daughter Emma in 2000, Rose is looking forward to the day when baby
and mom can ride tandem.
Christine Anthony:
“I have purchased the Working & Living in France [guide] and have read
through most of it. The information is great, clear, concise, and current.”
Jerry Stopher:
“Working and Living in France got here quickly, and I have read it.
Very good, well-written, and informative. It confirmed what I already
believed: going over yonder and working there, staying legally with
120
proper papers, is tricky, even potentially quite difficult–– but not impos-
sible. …With the how-to information I now have, it [will] be way less
daunting than going at it cold and unprepared.”
Elaine Hutchison:
“I always had a copy of your book with me for job interviews, so I
could show them the required salary for a cadre supérieur. I remembered
a compliment on your book from a Parisian banker. Taking your book’s
advice to heart, I asked my Parisian friend Flo if I could meet her
banker, as I was planning to move my retirement fund to France.
During our meeting, I explained that I was already familiar with the
‘financial’ products available to foreigners. After producing your book
from my briefcase, he said, with a strong note of surprise in his voice,
‘This was written by an American?’ With a note of admiration in his
voice he said, ‘This is very accurate and up-to-date.’ I am very lucky to
have a work contract, very lucky to have my cool history and music
friends in Paris, and very lucky to have stumbled across your book,
because it made what I needed to know so very clear.”
121