A Catalogue of Visual Textile Defects

Aasim Ahmed
TS3B
Foreword

The preparation of this catalogue has been quite interesting. It gave me the opportunity
to talk to various people selling textile products at retail outlets, vendors, tailors, friends
and family members and realize their perspective of textiles.

Shop owners at Zainab Market and Rex Centre were extremely cooperative and showed
enormous patience. Also helpful were various other tailors and sales personnel dealing
in different textile products mainly in the areas of Clifton and Defence. My conversations
with them provided a lot of information based on experience and common sense.

Friends and family members apart from being sources of defects also viewed my work
from time to time. Their comments helped me better understand how to present my
defects in the most effective manner and developing the classification system of the
assignment (See section 2).

Also faculty at TIP provided help wherever possible with valuable comments which
further helped me classify certain defects.
1 Preface

This assignment is a collection of defects that occur in textile processing. Initially we

were asked to collect 4 defects originating from each of the following stages of
processing.

1. Ginning
2. Spinning
3. Cutting
4. Weaving/ Knitting
5. Pretreatment
6. Dyeing/Printing
7. Finishing
8. Stitching

The assignment date was eventually extended and we were told that defects could be
picked from any stage of processing with a minimum of 32 defects.

The defects presented are from a vast range of processing. Some additional defects
showing mistreatment of products have also been included.

One major problem faced during this assignment was the fact that our industries are
very secretive about their operations. Students were not allowed to take cameras inside
units with or without references. Shopkeepers in various markets were generally helpful.
During my hunt for defects I came across one shopkeeper who screen printed T-shirts
himself and sold them at a retail outlet. This gentleman did not allow me to take
photographs of some of the defected articles at his shop even though the work he was
performing was not rocket science and commonly practiced.

It must be noted that it is extremely difficult to identify the exact stage of processing
which causes a defect. Some of the defects therefore, based on suspected stage of
cause have been assigned multiple categories (see defect no. 3.39) while some are
classified as subclasses of certain process (see defect no. 3.47). Issues with
identification have been further addressed in section 2.1.2.
2 Introduction

2.1 Procedure of arrangement

This catalogue was prepared in three phases; namely

1. collection,
2. identification and
3. classification

The procedure of arrangement explains how each phase influences the arrangement of
defects in the catalogue.

Scheme 2, shows how the complexity in recognition (finding a fault), identification

(source of fault) and classification (major/minor) of defects varied along the process
chain.

Process Chain
Spinning Stitching

Ease of classification

Ease of identification of cause

Ease of recognition of fault

Scheme 2

2.1.1 Collection

Defects were collected from various sources including various markets and tailoring
shops. Zainab market was a rich source of defects from all stages as low grade products
are being sold there that have been made using defected material. Garments with minor
non conformities (see later section) are commonly worn by people, which was another
good source of defects.

Some photographs have been taken immediately after production cycles. For instance,
while exploring Rex Centre I was lucky enough to run into transfer printing shops. Other
sources of defects include the internet, a friend, who knowing that I’m a textile student
consults me to identify problems that occur in his denim trousers and variations that I
recorded in a report prepared at Clariant, as a lab trainee.

2.1.2 Identification

By far the most difficult phase of the assignment was identifying the source of defects.
That is, identification of the precise process during which the defect occurred. Scheme 2
shows that this becomes more difficult the later the defect is recognized in the
production cycle.

A hole in a woven fabric could be a pinhole (see defect no. 3.23), a tendering hole (see
defect no. 3.34) or simply present due to a prick in a fabric. Pinholes are easy to identify
if immediately picked up after the process, tendering holes do not appear on fabric until it
is washed after storage.

The source of some defects (see defect no. 3.03) was extremely difficult to trace. The
reason for defect no 3.03 was confidently explained by one shopkeeper as breakage of
lycra in the weft. Lycra is inserted in the trouser as part of weft yarn, Even if it did
somehow break from within the yarn the cause for discoloration is beyond my
comprehension. Similarly the cause of defect no. 3.52 could not be determined. It could
not have occurred during weaving as that would have automatically stopped machine
production. Therefore its possible stage of cause could only be cited on the basis of
hypothesis.

Still, some defects can have a variety of underlying causes associated with them. A hole
in a knitted fabric for example can turn up due to a variety of reasons. To name a few
breakage of needle during knitting, faulty yarn, lack of machine maintenance or even
improper storage conditions can lead to holes.

A slub yarn could be made out of short staple fibers. A slub can infact be a fancy yarn. If
a slub is introduced in the yarn during ring spinning, it is promptly removed during auto-
winding. The same goes for thin places in yarn. However, thin places may not be visible
to the naked eye but may lead to yarn breakages during subsequent processing leading
to defects which will only become apparent after certain stages.

With regard to ginning, contaminations may become part of fibers before or during the
process itself. However, these are subsequently removed in the blow room either by
machines or manual inspection. If certain contaminations do go through they are cleared
in subsequent pretreatment process. Scouring will remove oil and wax impurities from
cotton. The level of ginning of fibers directly influences its end use. Thus there is no such
term in the industry as over ginned cotton. If a consignment of fiber is vigorously ginned,
it will be used for production of yarn that is not made with long staple cotton. Interning at
Al-Karam In June 2004 we once discovered a half torn 10 dollar note in Pima cotton. I
wouldn’t classify it’s presence in the bale as a ginning defect as its presence was
expected thus immediately detected by the Jossi Vision Shield, installed in the blowroom
and promptly removed. Similarly metal screws, rods etc. are frequently found by
magnetic detectors or hand/ visual detection depending on the operation strategy at the
mill.

2.1.3 Classification

Classification is the categorization of defects into major and minor. Defects have been
classified depending on several factors. In some cases defects may not be defects in the
first place.

One must note that as classification of defects becomes easier down the production line,
tracing the cause of the defect becomes tougher. Scheme 2, shows how it was easier to
identify the presence of a fault towards the final stages of production whereas it became
difficult to trace the fault back to its source.

Barre in knitting (see defect no. 3.14) appears in the form of sequential horizontal lines
on the fabric. This could easily be used as an effect and usefully incorporated in
products. It would be easier to recognize it as a defect in a finished product rather than
greige fabric. Similarly laddering (see defect no. 3.20) can be achieved as an effect by
deliberately deactivating a needle in the bed.

Sometimes the classification defends on the frequency of the defect. A small hole in the
fabric may not cause problems but repeated small holes will obviously be problematic
and thus a major defect. The classification of some depends on how degree of visibility.
For instance registration issues can be ignored if there is only minor misalignment.
Variation in matching of dyed shade is acceptable within certain limits.

Certain defects are acceptable to some while unacceptable to others. Fabric for curtain
inner lining may not generally be judged with stringent dealings. Whereas that for high
grade dress wear may be rejected on the basis of a miniscule imperfection.

2.2 Illustration of Defects

Defects have been illustrated in section 3 based on the procedure of arrangement

explained in section 2.1.
3 Illustration

Name/ Classification/
Genre Possible Cause Photograph
No. Description Comments
3.01 Spinning Slub Yarn: A Due to hand joint in Slubs depending
yarn which is roving or rejoining on frequency and
thicker than the of yarn in ring size are a major
desired count spinning. defect. In this case
or has a thick a slub has been
place in it. deliberately
incorporated in a
low grade fabric.
On its own if it
occurs due to the
given reasons, it is
a defect.

3.02 Spinning Holes in Weak place in yarn This is usually a

interlocked which could have minor defect. Holes
fabric. resulted in in interlocked fabric
breakage. don’t have the
tendency to open
up. Depending on
the size and color
of fabric they can
even be mended by
sewing and hidden
to a considerable
degree.

3.03 Weaving Puckered and Insertion of weft Major defect as it

discolored with different foils garment
band in denim shrinkage and color appearance.
trouser along change
the weft characteristics due
direction. to further treatment.

3.04 Weaving Broken picks in The picks broke Depends on the

warp faced twill most probably location of the
because of defect. If it is close
abrasion on the to the selvedge it’s
back side of the definitely minor.
fabric. The frequency of
such defects is
normally not high
unless the fabric is
severely mistreated
or one of the
treatment machines
has pointed parts.
3.05 Weaving Loop in warp Due to a slack end, Minor defect, the
the warp might get loop can be cut and
pulled and form a removed from the
loop in the fabric surface
construction of the without leaving any
fabric. trace behind.

3.06 Weaving Weft Float: weft Series of warp Depending upon

yarns which yarns getting stuck frequency and
haven’t been in their bottom visibility, this could
overlapped for position resulting in be major or minor.
a particular the yarns not being Here it seems like a
region of the lifted during weft minor defect.
fabric and just insertion.
lie above the
fabric in the
form lose
yarns.

3.07 Weaving Loose Several slack ends This is a major

construction in the warp can defect as it foils the
lead to a loose appearance of the
construction of the fabric leaving open
fabric. spaces in the
construction and
also makes it weak.

3.08 Weaving Broken The fabric in the This is a major

Supplementary image is folded to defect as the
Warp show the front as missing end affects
well as back sides the entire length of
of a vertical strip of fabric.
fabric. It shows a
missing end in the
motive along the
entire length. This
has occurred due
to a broken
supplementary
warp yarn.
3.09 Weaving Supplementary One of the This is a minor
Warp has supplementary defect as it does
become a part warps has become not heavily
of fabric a part of the fabric influence the motif.
construction. foiling the If it is very frequent
appearance of the it can be major.
design. The reason
could be insertion
of a broken
supplementary
warp in an incorrect
heddle eye.

3.10 Weaving Missing warp: When a frame gets A minor defect in

Warp float on stuck and leaves a this case as it is
back side. particular warp barely visible.
down for However,
successive picks. depending on
frequency and size,
hence visibility it
can become major.

3.11 Weaving Double pick: Characteristic This is a major

when two picks feature of certain defect as it appears
are mistakenly rapier looms. The throughout the
inserted yarn is not width of the fabric
instead of one. transferred to the
receiving rapier
leading to a double
pick in half the
width of the fabric
and no pick in the
remaining half.

3.12 Weaving Broken and Perhaps this was a This is a minor

missing pick: float which has defect. However, it
The pick seems broken or been could have been
to have broken plucked out. major depending
over a short on the frequency
number of and visibility.
warps and then
continued
3.13 Weaving Missing The motif has lost This is a major
Supplementary its intended design defect as it foils the
Warps because of missing motif. If the warps
warps. are not stitched the
Supplementary frequency of
warps should be occurrence is
stitched to back of normally high.
fabric. Otherwise
they can easily be
plucked out from
the fabric due to
entanglement
during processing
or subsequent use.
3.14 Knitting Barre: Possibly due to This is a major
horizontal lower tension in defect as it is easily
stripes in fabric one of the feeders, detectable and is
loops formed in the not an intended
knitting cycle effect in the fabric.
initiated by that
particular feeder
were slightly larger
than the rest thus
causing an
embossed
appearance in the
form of stripes.

3.15 Knitting Skewed fabric: This can be a result This is a minor

The shape of of uneven take defect and can be
the fabric is down roller fixed in subsequent
distorted. settings. It is a processing.
Wales and generic feature of
courses are circular knits
angular. because of the
spiral movement of
the needles.

3.16 Knitting Foreign fly Unclean Depending on the

between loops environment or nature of the
of constructed improper material that gets
fabric maintenance of caught up fly can
machine can cause be removed with
fly to end up in the ease or difficulty. It
knitting zone where is usually a minor
it becomes part of defect unless very
the fabric. frequent.
3.17 Knitting Thin Yarn One of the feeder is This is a major
receiving yarn from defect which will
a spool that has leave bands across
finer yarn. the entire width of
the fabric,

3.18 Knitting Horizontal band This happens due Technically a major

of different to a change of defect should not
color on bottom bobbin in the make its way to a
of T-shirt. knitting machine. garment. This
Different lots of variation was not
yarn can have visible when the
slight shade article was bought.
variations which However, was very
can produced apparent when the
shade differences shirt was worn in
in fabric. sunlight.

3.19 Knitting Thick yarn One of the feeder is This is a major

receiving yarn from defect which will
a spool which has leave bands across
thicker yarn. This the entire width of
will also lead to the fabric,
barre till the spool
exhausts or is
changed.

3.20 Knitting Laddering Continued knitting This is a major

with a broken defect. However if
needle. the ladder is
located towards the
edge of the fabric it
may be classified
as minor.
3.21 Knitting Deliberate cut A rib defect This is a prime
placed in fabric occurred during example of how the
knitting which was classification of
detected by QC defects can vary in
who placed a cut different situations.
on the defect to The Rib defect may
ensure that the not have been
garment does not visible with ease
go through further and slipped through
stages. making it a minor
defect. However,
for the QC
department it was a
major defect.
3.22 Knitting Hole: fabric fall One reason for a This is a major
off hole of this type defect. The fabric
can be the needle will continue
latch getting stuck opening up
in flat bed whenever such a
machines. defect occurs. It
must be mended
immediately to
prevent further
damage.

3.23 Pre- Pinhole The presence of The frequency of

treatment Fe2+ ions defect determines if
accelerates it is major or minor.
peroxide bleaching.
If the fabric has rust
residue on it or
localized iron
contamination the
bleaching process
will damage the
fibers causing a
hole.

3.24 Printing The letter ‘a’ The presence of a Defects of this type
has a cut off stray yarn on the are usually minor.
corner and the fabric during However in some
following z also transfer printing case if the print
has a cut on caused the design design is affected
the edge. to be printed on the such that the
yarn which when variation in design
later removed is very easily
caused the defect. detectable and
reveals a definite
A quality check for non-conformity in
stray yarns before the garment the
printing can reduce defect may be
occurrence. labeled major
3.25 Printing Overlapping of Poor registration of In this case the
colors in a screens. defect is minor as
print. the character is
recognizable and
when viewed from
a distance the
registration
problem doesn’t
seem too obvious.
However,
depending on the
severity and end
use the defect can
be major or minor.
3.26 Printing Upside down Fabric was folded This is a major
pigment print before the print defect. Though
copied at base paste dried out. probably not visible
of T-shirt in the picture the
defect was quite
apparent in the
garment.

3.27 Printing Missing Incomplete transfer The defect is minor

patches of of design from as only a very slight
color from top paper to fabric on portion of the
left and bottom transfer printing design is missing.
right corners of due to removal of
the ‘X’ transfer of paper
while the fabric was
still hot.

3.28 Printing Appearance of Due to incomplete The defect in this

a crack or mis transfer of the case is minor. The
alignment in design in the first operator was lucky
transfer printed attempt as the to have registered
fabric. paper was removed the design fairly
while the fabric was well.
still hot, the
operator tried to
adjust the
remaining bit on the
fabric. This lead to
improper
alignment.
3.29 Printing Unwanted Screen has holes in This is a major
pigment it that should have defect as the
marking on been covered. This design has been
fabric could be because foiled. However, in
of ageing of the the industry unless
screen and there is only minor
eventual damage damage to the
or just improper screen, it is not
exposure to light. used.

3.30 Printing Bleeding of red Prints with reactive This is a major

and its dyes need to be defect. The tint is
adsorption into washed thoroughly very obvious. It
the white area. with backflow. fouls the
Saturation of appearance of the
washing bath with fabric.
color can lead to
the dye adsorbing
onto the uncolored
fiber surface
leading to a tint as
shown.

3.31 Printing Flushing on Low viscosity of Major as it happens

polyester fabric print paste throughout the
fabric unless the
viscosity is
corrected.

3.32 Printing Incomplete Loss of strength of This is a major

removal of reducing agent defect. The lightly
color in employed to colored areas
discharge remove the color or should have been
printing. inadequate quantity completely white.
of reducing agent in
the print paste.
3.33 Dyeing Color variation Lack of agitation in This is a major
in yarn. the dye bath. defect. The yarn
was supposed to
be uniformly blue in
color.

3.34 Dyeing Hole in sulfur This hole appeared This is a major

dyed fabric due in the levis denim defect. Consumers
to tendering article soon after It want their purchase
was purchased. to retain the
The hole appeared characteristics they
on washing the bought, unless
garment. stated otherwise.

3.35 Dyeing Staining on Product being sold This defect is major

original Nike for Rs. 100/- and caused
cardigan because of rejection of the
recurrent stains on article.
garment.

3.36 Dyeing/ Staining of Poor wet fastness This is a major

Stitching fabric due to of dye, inadequate defect if the fabric
bleeding. washing of fabric is stitched on a
after dyeing. garment of lighter
shade. The fabric
can, however, be
used alone but care
must be taken
when washing. It
should be washed
separately or with
dark colors (see
also defect no. xx).
3.37 Dyeing/ Poor light The dye for inner This is a major
Poor fastness: lining should be defect which
fiber Fading of inner tested for light becomes visible
selection lining of roll up fastness and when the blind is
blinds where it chosen rolled up.
is exposed by accordingly.
light.

3.38 Dyeing Color variation Acrylics crease Major defect.

in acrylic fabric easily. Creasing Fabric with
due to improper can cause unleveled dyeing
dye leveling. unleveled can not be used for
penetration of dyes. originally intended
solid shade
products.

3.39 Dyeing/ Decolorized Chemical spillage Major defect unless

Finishing patch on fabric of fabric could have it is located at a
along with cause de-coloration place from where it
breakage of and weakening of can be easily cut
yarn the fabric. out.

3.40 Stitching A missed stitch This happens when This is a minor

appears in the the stitching needle defect and doesn’t
form of a lifted is unable to affect the
loop. penetrate through appearance of the
the fabric. fabric to a great
extent.
3.41 Stitching Missing loops Carelessness and This is a minor
and button on no check for defect defect as the article
denim trouser along the chain can be fixed and
brought in perfect
wearing condition
by stitching the
missing parts.

3.42 Stitching Stitch marks Due to removal of This is a major

incorrectly placed defect as it will
pocket from a shirt. leave unwanted
marks on the fabric.

3.43 Stitching Missing Sleeve Carelessness and Major defect. The

no check after the product has lost
process chain purpose for its
stage and packing intended use
stage. because of the
missing sleeve.

3.44 Stitching Shade variation The color was The clearly visible
in collar. One probably stitched variation in color
panel of the off a cloth from a makes this a major
color is has a different lot. The defect.
yellow tinge to variation in shade
it. was probably not
apparent when the
garment was made
but appeared later
due to different
characteristics of
the dye.
3.45 Stitching Unwanted cut Product made with The defect is major.
out motif on recycled garment The mark is
garment permanent and
cannot be removed
from the fabric. It is
going to adversely
affect the value of
the fabric.

3.46 Stitching Sleeve lining in Stitching of This is a minor

different color. different color, in defect. Though the
The rest of the order to complete product is markedly
pieces in the lot the product, due to different from what
had pink lining lack of required was originally
whereas one material. intended, it can still
had green. be sold as a
perfectly good
article.

3.47 Stitching- Slit in garment Careless cropping Depending on the

Cropping leads to scissors size and location of
slicing through the the slit the defect
garment leading to can be classified as
a cut. major or minor. In
this case with a
fairly obvious slit
the defect can be
labeled major.

3.48 Finishing Torn patches in Over application of This is a major

denim enzyme defect as it has
clearly damaged
the fabric.
3.49 Finishing White patches Localized over This is a major
on denim bleaching. defect. It has left
fabric. Chemical spillage clear visible white
could be a cause. patches on the
article which can
not be made less
apparent by any
means.

3.50 Finishing Unwanted Localized over This is a minor

white patterns enzyme wash defect as the white
on fabric. marks could be
termed as part of
the required effect.

3.51 Stitching Unwanted Oily stains with The defect is minor.

marks on dust adhered to It will most probably
fabric. surface which be removed during
makes the stains subsequent
more prominent washing. However
and difficult to in case it stays, due
remove, due to to prominence it will
contact with oil or be termed as
grease covered major. This defect
exposed machine has appeared after
parts during stitching as the
stitching. Careless stain is also
handling could be marking the seam.
another cause.
3.52 Pre- Broken ends at Not determined, A single line in
treatment/ regular however this has to fabric if strategically
Finishing/ intervals. be a post weaving incorporated in the
Stitching defect as the loom end product will not
would have make much of a
automatically difference in the
stopped had the appearance of the
ends broken during fabric. This defect
production. was part of the
back pocket of a
trouser. In my
opinion it is minor.
4 Bibliography

4.1 References

i. Dr. Charles Tomasino, Chemistry and Technology of Fabric Preparation and

Finishing, Department of Textile Engineering, North Carolina State University
ii. Perkins, Textile Coloration and Finishing
iii. John Shore, Colorants and Auxiliaries, Volume 2, Revised Edition
iv. ISO standard, Quality Management Systems- Requirements, BS EN ISO
9001:2000

4.2 Photographs

i. Zainab Market
ii. Rex Centre
iii. The Silk Shop, Sunset Boulevard, Defence
iv. Various Tailoring Shops, Phase IV, Defence
v. Websites:
a. http://www.ntcresearch.org/pdf-rpts/AnRp03/S01-PH07-A3.pdf
b. http://www.textiles2001.atalink.co.uk

4.3 Further Information

Common defects that occur during weaving, knitting and apparel manufacture are
available at the links mentioned below:

i. http://www.asd.polyu.edu.hk/merchandise/html/woven.htm
ii. http://www.asd.polyu.edu.hk/merchandise/html/knitted.htm
iii. http://www.asd.polyu.edu.hk/merchandise/gmt_defects/Garmentdefect.htm