Professional Documents
Culture Documents
A city for the 21st century 1. From the Anilla Olímpica to Plaça Espanya
2. The Heart of the Eixample
History 3. A Tour through the Squares of Gràcia to Avinguda Diagonal
Important dates and events 4. A Stroll down La Rambla
5. Barceloneta and Vila Olímpica
Living Culture 6. La Ribera, El Born and the Raval
Contemporary Barcelona 7. The Gothic Quarter and the Old Jewish District
Literature 8. Beyond the Eixample Dret
Theatre 9. A Walk from Plaça Catalunya to the Plaça de la Mercè
Music 10. Off the Route (but not to be missed)
Design
Cultural Festivals Surrounding Areas
Sitges
City Beats Costa Brava
Modernism Montserrat
La Rambla
The Markets Practical Guide Book
Terraces and Squares How to get here, How to get around, Useful advice, Where to sleep,
Barcelona Festivals Where to eat, Nightlife, Shopping, Activities for children
If you find yourself near the Santa Maria del The first half of the 19th century was marked In 1897 a new restaurant, inspired by the Le
Mar church in the Born neighbourhood, you by uprisings and revolts. In 1814, amidst Chat Noir in Paris, opened its doors in
will probably notice an enormous, copper- bombings, riots, convent fires and general con- Barcelona. Its name was Els Quatre Gats, and
coloured torch: this is the Fosar de les flict, the city's workers organised the first it stood out for being a very unusual place. It
Moreres. The flame burning at the very top general strike the city had ever known. The fell somewhere between a traditional guesthou-
commemorates all the Catalans who lost their tension that characterised this time as well as se, a tavern and the kind of refined, modernist
life during the War of Succession. This isn't the the obvious clamouring for change brought bar that was popular throughout the rest of
only historical curiosity in the Born. In about a series of important reforms. Europe at the time. Els Quatre Gats soon beca-
February 2002, the project to restructure the me a popular hang-out for artists such as
old Born Market was set into motion. The In 1848 Barcelona inaugurated its first railway Ramon Casas, Santiago Rusiñol, Isaac
market was to be reinvented as a space to house route, and the city's commitment to the indus- Albéniz and Antoni Gaudí. In 1899, a very
the Barcelona Provincial Library, but no one trial age earned it the nickname "little young Picasso displayed his very first exhibi-
was quite prepared for what they were to find Manchester". In 1854, the city walls finally tion on the walls of this restaurant. Needless to
beneath the market. The ground had been guar- came down, an event that allowed a sudden, say, the reigning atmosphere was bohemian,
ding a fascinating secret for centuries - the unprecedented surge in urban development. artistic and thoroughly unique. Some of that
archaeological remains of the old, medieval flavour still lingers in the air at Carrer Montsió
city circa 1714. The importance of this Furthermore, 1859 saw the approval of the 3, just around the corner from the Portal de
archaeological gem cannot be overstated; it is Ildefons Cerdà Plan, which gave birth to the l'Angel, where you can enjoy a coffee or a meal
probably the largest archaeological park of its area now known as the Eixample and laid out while soaking in all of the place's by now
kind to be found in the urban centre of any the by now classic, grid-like pattern, intersper- legendary history.
European city. As you stroll along the Born sed with open, public spaces and gardens. It
promenade, another peculiar artefact might was to be a more humane form of urban archi- The spirit of the Modernist movement colours
catch your eye: a chest and four, numbered can- tecture, bringing light and space to a city still every artistic aspect of the city, especially noti-
non balls, all of which date back to the medie- marked by its medieval past. The fortress over- ceable in much of the architecture. A whole
val era. looking the city also fell victim to change and generation of artists were captivated by this
was torn down to make room for a very special movement and allowed their imagination free
reign, the only apparent taboo being the Thousands of people fled into exile while transformation that would change the city fore-
straight line. Colourful ceramics, glasswork, relentless bombardments devastated the city. ver. As part of the city's renovation process, the
wrought-iron and an entire imaginary animal When the civil war came to an end in 1939 and coastline was won back from its industrial
kingdom made their way into the city's archi- the Franco Dictatorship rose to power, grave and converted into sandy beaches and
tecture. The unquestionable frontrunner of this Barcelona lost many of its previous freedoms, internationally renowned architects built land-
style was without a doubt Antoni Gaudí who is including the loss of its autonomy, which it had mark structures. The effort culminated in one
immortalised by the timeless, universal crea- managed to regain in the past. The city also of the best Games in Olympic history and pre-
tions he set into the city: the Sagrada Familia, watched as the Catalan language was yet again sented the world with a whole new Barcelona:
buildings like Casa Milà (also known as La declared illegal. modern, open and welcoming.
Pedrera) and Casa Batlló and the Park Güell.
The post-war period unfolded in this environ- The 2004 Forum of Cultures was the most
Contemporary Barcelona ment until the 1960s. That decade witnessed recent international event celebrated in
the beginnings of an economic and industrial Barcelona. Despite lacking the popular respon-
The 20th century also brought dark moments to expansion, which brought another wave of se garnered by the Olympic Games, the Forum
the city. In 1906 Barcelona lived through its immigration from other Spanish regions to the did put Barcelona back into the world's spo-
infamous Tragic Week, marked by numerous city. The rise in the population brought with it tlight and spurred the construction of new spa-
altercations, general upheaval and the burning an immense demand for more housing and ces, such as a new convention centre and an
of convents. The Mancomunitat de urban infrastructure - two areas in which the auditorium. Although the final function of the
Catalunya was set up in 1914, a product of the city grew dramatically, often without defined Forum grounds is still to be determined, one
rise in Catalan, nationalist tendencies that were criteria, resulting in the birth of sleeper cities in thing is already certain. The development of the
a direct response to the repressive, military the outskirts. Forum infrastructure resulted in recovering and
rule. However, a few years later, General rehabilitating one of Barcelona's most forgotten
Primo de Rivera organised a coup which Democracy came to Spain in 1975 after the and neglected urban zones.
brought him to power. He ruled the city as a death of the dictator Francisco Franco.
dictator with an iron fist. However, despite the Barcelona reinstated the Generalitat as its auto- Nowadays, Barcelona is one of Europe's
repressive conditions rampant in the city, nomous government and was once again recog- main tourist destinations. The reasons for the
Barcelona managed to overcome many obsta- nised as the capital of an autonomous city's immense popularity are many. Barcelona
cles to organise, amidst all of this conflict, the Catalonia. Along with its newly regained free- has managed to maintain its identity without
1929 International Fair. doms, Barcelona also continued to grow on an rejecting change; championing modern design
industrial as well as cultural level. without losing sight of tradition and becoming
The Republican era that began in 1931 reawa- a cosmopolitan city without forgetting its roots
kened the city's hope and spirit, but more diffi- In 1981 came another turning point for the city and ancient customs. You have chosen to visit a
cult times were on the horizon. The Spanish - the International Olympics Committee truly special and unique city, a place that
Civil War broke out in 1936, a war during announced that Barcelona would host the 1992 embraces change and yet somehow always
which Barcelona would live through some of Olympic Games. The selection as Olympic manages to stay true to its character.
its darkest and most difficult moments. host set off a profound architectural and urban
CONTEMPORARY BARCELONA - LIVING CULTURE
THEATRE: A NEW CONTEMPORARY stage their pieces. The group creates their own but rather to find a different and amusing way
TWIST stage by placing traditionally non-theatrical to tell stories that communicate with people of
spaces into a different context. They "invaded" all ages.
Theatre has had a long-lasting and reputable the Olympic Stadium with an enormous boat
tradition in Barcelona. Several theatrical com- during the 1992 Olympic Games' inaugural Dagoll Dagom, another important Catalan
panies renowned throughout Spain and the rest celebration. In another performance they gathe- group, works in a similar vein but with a per-
of the world have their roots in Barcelona. red 20,000 people in Plaça Catalunya for a haps more conventional approach. The group
Many of these groups share a common career spectacular farewell to the 20th century, was also founded in the 1970s and currently
path: starting small, often as a hobby, and per- accompanied by a character of their creation, consists of one of the most enduring and impor-
forming locally in Catalan on the many, alter- the Millennium Man. tant
native stages located throughout the city. The
majority of groups don't break out of this La Fura were long considered rather shocking
mould, but those that do have contributed enor- (and still are by some audience members) for
mously to new theatrical movements which dealing with taboo subjects such as sexuality,
have garnered an important following and a deviant behaviour and mental illness. Whether
solid reputation worldwide. their work is to your liking or not, one thing is
unquestionably true: they have created their
Barcelona has always managed to maintain its own style and a completely new type of perfor-
traditions and simultaneously give birth to new mance. They have always been daring, recently
and important voices in the avant-garde. One of experimenting with digital media as an element
these voices is definitely the internationally in their shows and making forays into opera
renowned group La Fura dels Baus. They and film. Their shows always open with much
have created an unusual theatrical style unlike hype and polemic, which generally assures a
any other, which brings together live perfor- hit at the box-office. More than a million peo-
mance, theatrical techniques, visual art and ple have attended their shows over the years,
music. The result is a completely innovative which have received every kind of review -
and new type of performance - it might not be from rave to condemnation. However, reviews
everyone's cup of tea, but its originality and seem to have little bearing on La Fura dels
importance cannot be overstated. Baus' drawing power - tickets to their shows
usually sell out within a few days of going on casts in Spain. They have experimented with a
sale. variety of different shows, including stage pro-
ductions of some of the most important Catalan
Somewhat less "aggressive" but equally note- works of literature. Most recently they have
worthy is the group Els Comediants. The changed course and opted for a greater empha-
group was born more than three decades ago sis on musical theatre, a genre in which they
during a time when intellectual content domi- have excelled with productions like Mikado,
nated official theatres. The members of Els Glups!, Els Pirates and Mar i Cel. The latter
Comediants were inspired by other European was first produced in 1988 and received a revi-
groups active at that time, but they wove a lot val this year.
of traditional, local elements into their work.
Their name refers to an ancient custom in LITERATURE: A LONG AND ENDURING
which travelling comedians went from village STORY
to village performing their routine. However,
since they often performed in the same villages October 18th, 2003 was the day Manuel
over and over again, they had to invent myriad Vázquez Montalbán died of a heart at the air-
tricks to tell the same story differently each and port in Bangkok and a sad day for all those who
every time. love Catalan literature. However, it was also a
Modernism wasn't just an artistic movement; it his time. One of his most acclaimed buildings, build the Palau Güell and the Park Güell. The
was also a way of thinking, a social approach the Casa Milà, was the subject of much criti- latter is a vast, open-air space that allows you to
and a political attitude. It spread into all facets cism and mockery. Its massive stone facade appreciate Gaudí's incredible talent and visit
of city life and therefore exercised an enormous earned it the nickname La Pedrera (piedra his home, which is now a museum.
influence on the second half of the 19th century means stone in Spanish). Gaudí was often
and the first years of the 20th century. At that ahead of his time, and the only element banned As it is often the case with creative geniuses,
time, Barcelona was already a city open to new from his work was the straight line. Instead, he Gaudí's death was as unusual as his life. Gaudí
ideas and the cultural movements taking place opted for curved lines, vibrant colours, mythi- died on the morning of June 10th, 1926. He
throughout Europe. In carving its European cal creatures and an unbridled imagination that was on his way to Sunday mass at the Sant
identity, Barcelona was also attempting to dif- touched every corner of his work. Felip Neri Church when he was hit and killed
ferentiate itself from the rest of Spain, which by a tram.
had stripped the region of most of its national Despite his radical architectural style, Gaudí
and institutional rights after the war in 1714. could always rely on the ecclesiastical sector, Lluís Doménech i Montaner
which provided him with significant commis- Doménech i Montaner was one of the most pro-
Modernism was a fruit of this time, a period sions like the Sagrada Familia, and the city's lific architects in his day, dedicated to the crea-
marked by intellectual, artistic and social uphe- bourgeoisie, which always supported his tion of a modern and different architectural
aval, and the innovative and radically new whimsical and fantastical architecture. The style. His buildings display Moorish influences
movement inspired a generation of groundbre- Casa Batlló, the Casa Calvet and the Casa Milà in addition to the sinuous lines that came to
aking artists. This new movement found are examples of residences that Gaudí designed characterise modernist architecture. One of the
expression in all artistic areas, including sculp- for some of the city's wealthiest families. But best examples of this stylistic fusion is the res-
ture, painting, literature, music, ornamentation the greatest influence on Gaudí's work was the taurant he built in the Ciutadela Park in 1888.
and design. However, it was in the field of industrialist Eusebi Güell, a personal friend and The building, known as the Castle of the Three
architecture that modernism reached its most patron of the artist. He commissioned Gaudí to Dragons, now houses the Zoology Museum.
complete and highest form of expression.
Amongst the many followers and exponents of
this movement, there are three names that have
come to symbolise modernist Barcelona.
Antoni Gaudí
Antoni Gaudí was one of the driving forces
behind the modernist fervour that took hold of Did you know that…
the city's architectural world. Gaudí was born The zero kilometre mark of the
in Reus (Tarragona) but created most of his Modernist Route is located on Passeig
work in Barcelona, where he moved at age de Gràcia. This route makes its way
twenty to pursue a career in architecture. through many different European
cities, identifying key buildings and
He made a name for himself with his unique monuments belonging to this artistic
and seemingly unlimited imagination and his movement.
peculiar and radical approach to architecture.
However, he also had his fair share of critics in
Josep Puig i Cadafalch
Considered the last representative of moder-
nism and the first exponent of noucentismo, the
artistic movement that followed the former,
Puig i Cadafalch was known for more than his
architectural innovation. He played an equally
important role in Catalan politics during that
time.
1 Casa Batlló
2 Manzana de la Discordia
3Casa Lleó Morera
4 Parc Güell
5 Casa de les Punxes
6 La Pedrera
7 Farolas Paseo de Gracia
8 Casa Amatller
9 Parc Güell
10 Palau de la Música
11 La Pedrera
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The Rambla, an unforgettable promenade
The Rambla, an unfogettable promenade
This tree-lined promenade, bustling with tou- city centre down to the sea. The promenade helps visitors get a better understanding of this
rists as well as locals, flanked by both old shops became a popular spot with locals almost famed promenade. As part of the urban restruc-
and modern businesses, stage to open air art immediately. In the 19th century many wealthy turing brought about by the 1992 Olympic
and unique buildings, tells the story of day to families decided that the area had become suf- Games, the city redesigned the port area around
day life in a modern city. And, of course, there ficiently posh, and they began to build their the Columbus monument. The Rambla was
is no shortage of pickpockets either, much like houses and palaces along the length of the pro- extended, and the new, modern section, known
on any other important, busy avenue in any menade. as the Rambla de Mar, arches over the sea and
other large, urban city. Therefore, be alert as leads to the Maremagnum shopping centre.
you stroll along the promenade and enjoy its The Rambla's popularity grew over time, and (See Route 4: A Stroll down the Rambla).
many facets - facets that have changed signifi- nowadays both locals and foreigners alike con-
cantly over the centuries. sider it to be the city's most famous street. The
buildings that line the promenade are equally
In comparison to much of the city centre, the well-known, such as, for example, the Gran
Rambla is actually quite modern. It is difficult Teatre del Liceu, one of the world's premiere
to imagine that until the 18th century the opera houses. The underground station at
Rambla was little more than a torrent surroun- Liceu, located on the Rambla itself, still bears
ded by convents, buildings and city walls. In the old anagram for the Gran Metropolitano de
1704 houses sprung up and replaced the rocks, Barcelona (GMB), the city's previous under-
trees were planted and the area was given a ground transport authority. The first under-
proverbial "face-lift". Towards the end of the ground line was inaugurated in 1924, and its
18th century, the idea that this torrent could be route ran from Lesseps to Catalunya.
turned into a promenade was considered for the
first time. The Rambla is actually divided into five sec-
This was when the stretch between Plaça tions, Rambla de Canaletes, Rambla dels
Catalunya and the Columbus monument was Estudis, Rambla de les Flors, Rambla dels
first developed, drawing a straight line from the Caputxins and Rambla de Santa Mónica, which
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The markets: a mediterranean tradition
The markets:
a mediterranean tradition Most visitors will not want to leave
Barcelona without a typical souvenir.
Making a decision isn't an easy task,
considering the ample selection at
hand. However, choose carefully
since more than one shop will try to
convince you that a Mexican hat or a
doll in a flamenco dress is a represen-
tative souvenir, and Barcelona has
much more to offer than that. In fact,
shopping is one of the city's strongest
points. Barcelona is home to a wide
variety of trendy shops as well as
designer stores selling the most exclu-
sive brands. But before heading out
on a shopping spree, you shouldn't
forget about another very typical style
of shopping, a style that defines
Barcelona as a Mediterranean city and
can only be found at the traditional
markets.
Over the course of thousands of years, markets on one little impulsive purchase or another. But Mercat del Ninot
have been a centrepiece of the Mediterranean that isn't all. The Boqueria isn't just a blend of Ninot means doll in Catalan, a rather peculiar
way of life. In a region where commerce was different cultures brought together under one name for a market located in the heart of the
the predominant economic activity, life took roof. It is also one of the city's most interesting Eixample district (on Carrer Mallorca, 131).
place outside, and its social centre was always pieces of architecture. Imagine shopping within The name is owed to the doll that crowns the
the marketplace. Barcelona was no exception an enormous and yet infinitely delicate iron facade, which, so the legend goes, was forgot-
to this, and even nowadays, locals still embra- structure, held up by Ionic columns and illumi- ten there by a sailor who was shipwrecked
ce the tradition of shopping at the market. The nated by light streaming in through giant panes along the city's coast.
city is home to more than forty markets, some of glass in the ceiling. Locals love to show off
of which are located inside buildings of great this charming market, where many of the ven- The market was originally an open-air venue.
cultural and architectural value. Each one of dors have grown into almost legendary charac- In 1933, the market was renovated, a process in
these places is a piece of the city's collective ters. Ask any of the vendors to tell you about which the original structure was preserved but
history. Moños ... it is definitely an experience worth the interior was completely redesigned.
having!
Mercat de la Boqueria Mercat de Sant Antoni
This market must have something special about Mercat del Born Many people associate markets with the outs-
it since it is amongst the most frequently pho- This is another one of Barcelona's great mar- kirts of a city, but in Barcelona that is not the
tographed places in the city. Although it isn't kets, located at the end of the Passeig del Born, case. The Sant Antoni Market, for example,
considered an official monument, it is treated in one of the city's currently hippest and most takes up an entire city block in the Eixample
as such. A visit to this magnificent market is an fashionable areas. This market, one of the best Esquerre (the left side of the district) between
absolute must, both for its location right on the examples of Barcelona's famed iron architectu- the Comte d'Urgell, Comte Borell, Manso and
Rambla (see Route 4) as well as for the vibrant re, was built by Joseph Fontserè i Mestre in Tamarit streets.
atmosphere inside. 1876. There is a rather peculiar and fascinating
story behind this market. After years of lying Its beginnings resemble those of many other
The first thing to grab your attention when unused and largely forgotten, the structure was markets: a simple jumble of moveable stalls
stepping into the Boqueria is the mixture of considered as the future home of the Regional gathered on a square. This changed when the
smells and colours that fill the entrance. The Library of Barcelona. Construction began in area began its process of urban development,
stalls are bursting with arrangements of the 2002, which was when the terrain revealed a and the neighbours requested an enclosed mar-
freshest vegetables and a vast variety of fruit, rather unexpected finding. Beneath the old ket area. The building that houses the market
both locally grown as well as imported from foundations, the crew discovered remnants of was designed in the tradition of modernist, iron
exotic, faraway countries. Everything is the old medieval city circa 1714, the time architecture, a style marked by uncovered and
thought out down to the tiniest detail because at period following the siege Felipe V and his tro- visible building materials.
this market the aesthetics of presentation count ops waged against Barcelona. This is one of the
as much as how much produce is sold. most important archaeological discoveries in The produce section of the market is open from
all of Europe; no one has ever found such an Monday through Saturday, but on four days of
The market is made up of more than 300 shops, enormous archaeological park before. the week the market also turns into a very busy
set up in stalls along eleven aisles. This is the Therefore, after a period of intense and inevita- shopping area, filled with shops selling clo-
largest market in all of Spain, and it offers the ble debate, a decision was made to preserve the thing and household goods. The market under-
most extensive variety of goods. Therefore, if ruins and move the library to a different, still goes another transformation on Sunday mor-
you come here with something specific in undecided location. The excavations have yiel- nings when it houses a market where people
mind, you will definitely find it. And if you ded an invaluable look at ancient stables, fis- buy, sell and exchange used books. It is defini-
have just come to browse and enjoy the atmos- hermen's houses and other dwellings as well as tely the most interesting of its kind in all of
phere then you will probably end up splurging the old marketplace. Barcelona.
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Open air Barcelona: Squares and Terraces
Open air Barcelona:
Squares and Terraces
Of all the neighbourhoods in Barcelona, Gracià Somewhat further away but well worth the visit ranteed to drop in at one time or another. One
definitely has the most squares, and each one is the Plaça de la Sagrada Familia, a unique of the absolute top-notch, luxury terraces is
has a story to tell. The Plaça del Diamant is square in a class all of its own. It is usually full located at the Hotel Casa Fuster (Passeig de
famous because it gave its name to one of the of people no matter the time of day. When deci- Gràcia, 132), the only five-star, deluxe hotel in
most internationally acclaimed novels in ding on a time to visit the square, sunset is defi- the city to also be classified as a monument.
Catalonia's literary history. Plaça del Sol is the nitely the best choice. This is when the lights From its highest point, visitors can admire the
site of the neighbourhood's yearly festival as on the square flicker to life and the cathedral's city below as well as a truly spectacular pano-
well as the epicentre of the area's nightlife. mirror image is reflected in the lake below. ramic view across Barcelona, from the city cen-
Plaça Rius i Taulet is home to the district's city tre all the way to the sea. A visit wouldn't be
hall and a very symbolic clock tower. When the Certainly there are larger squares of perhaps complete without a peek at the magnificent
weather turns warm and sunny, people flock to greater urban importance within the city (such hotel café, but if you decide to take a break and
the squares at all hours of the day ... including as Plaça Espanya, Plaça Catalunya, Plaça order something, don't be surprised when you
late at night, much to the chagrin of the people Francesc Macià ...). All of these places have are charged five-star, deluxe prices!
who live alongside the squares. However, played an important role in the city's history, The upper sections of the city, especially along
Gracià simply wouldn't be the same without but due to their strategic locations, they have the Avenida Tibidabo, also contain some of the
this popular atmosphere, a trait that has always somehow lost much of their charm. Nowadays, city's best kept secrets as well as some of the
characterised this area. they seem to recall the stress associated with most stunning views. Amongst all of the terra-
our busy, daily routines rather than conjuring ces that line the mountainside, the one at
The Gothic Quarter also contains many interes- up any kind of romance. Mirablau is the most famous. Although
ting little squares amidst its maze of narrow, Mirablau is a cocktail bar and dance club, it is
winding streets. For example, the Plaça Sant The local custom of going out for a coffee, open during the afternoon and is an ideal spot
Just, close to Dagueria street, is the last rem- snack or drink has brought with it the tradition for some good conversation whilst contempla-
nant of what was once an ancient cemetery - of the open air terrace. Many bars and restau- ting the city from above.
and even today it still has a romantic if slightly rants have tables and seating set up outside,
gloomy air about it. The Plaça del Pi, located which can even be enjoyed throughout the win- Barcelona's character is marked by change,
right next to the street and church bearing the ter months thanks to Barcelona's mild climate. which ensures that there is always a new place
same name, is one of the area's busiest. Just Some of these cafés have already earned them- to discover. Therefore, it is best to wander
around the corner is the Plaça de Josep Oriol, selves an almost mythical reputation, such as through the city with open eyes and allow your-
which often turns into a crafts fair at the wee- the Café Zurich. Located on Plaça Catalunya, it self to be surprised; in that way you will disco-
kends. is one of those places where everyone is gua- ver your very own Barcelona.
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1 Pl. España
2 Pl. del Diamant
3 Avda. Gaudí
4 Terraza Museo Textil
5 Antiguo anuncio en Pl. Rius i Taulet
6 Pl. Francesc Macià
7 Pl. Rovira
8 www..takeoffguides.com
9 Pl. Rius i Taulet
10 Pl. Catalunya
11 Tibidabo
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Barcelona Festivals
Barcelona Festivals
Sant Medir legend of Sant Jordi tells the story of a brave Traditionally, the night was characterised by
This is a festival particular to the Gracià neigh- knight who saved a village's maidens from a neighbourhood parties that spilled out onto the
bourhood, which takes place during the first fearsome dragon that lived off their blood. streets and dinners accompanied by "coca" (a
weekend in March. Legend has it that Saint When the dragon died a rose bush is said to type of pastry) and a glass of "cava"
Medir was a simple, Christian peasant living in have blossomed in its place. Sant Jordi plucked (Catalonian sparkling wine). The festivities
the outskirts of Barcelona around 303 A.D. He the loveliest of the roses and gave it to the villa- have changed much over the years. In the past,
owed his fame to a highly unusual variety of ge's princess. everyone participated in building bonfires on
beans, which simply sprung up from the the streets, but the risk of uncontrolled fires has
ground in his garden immediately after being The legend has given birth to the Sant Jordi put an end to this tradition. Nowadays, bonfires
planted. One day, as Medir was harvesting his holiday, during which custom dictates that men can only be built with a special permit.
magical crop, he was taken prisoner and tortu- give women a rose, and women give men a However, firecrackers, an equally classic Sant
red by the Romans. He came to be seen as a book. The city comes alive, and streets like the Joan artefact, have not suffered such a fate, and
martyr, and the grounds where his house had Passeig de Gracià and the Ramblas fill up with they are still set off with as much glee as in the
stood were turned into a hermitage in his name. stalls selling roses and books. It all adds up to a past. Some consider this an annoyance, but
truly spectacular and lively day that is unlike others see them as an absolutely essential
Nowadays, the legend is remembered with a any other. ingredient of the nocturnal Sant Joan festivi-
pilgrimage from the city to the hermitage, an ties.
event which attracts people of all ages. The Sant Joan
high point of the day, however, comes in the The night of June 23rd, the shortest of the year, The younger generations (as well as some ener-
afternoon. A parade, complete with horses and is ruled by the king of fire, who invites everyo- getic members of older ones) usually gather at
carriages, meanders down the Gran de Gracià ne to join the summer solstice celebration. The one of the mega-parties that the city organises.
Street and showers spectators with endless stre- holiday of Sant Joan is actually not until the More often than not, these parties take place
ams of candy. following day, but the night prior explodes in a along the city beaches since Sant Joan also
celebration that cannot be missed out on. Many celebrates the arrival of summer.
Sant Jordi welcome Sant Joan with sleepless eyes, still
The most cherished holiday for the majority of awake from a night of seemingly endless part- Fiestas de Gracià
Barcelona citizens is probably April 23rd. The ying. August is the month in which Barcelona, as
well as the rest of Catalonia, celebrates its
"fiestas mayores". These are essentially city or
neighbourhood festivals, days set aside during
which people cast off daily routines and head
out onto the streets to celebrate and enjoy
themselves.
Barcelona has always placed high value on decided to put the area to good use and created 1992, a decision was made to add new sculptu-
balancing its urban areas with green spaces. a public park, which also served as the centre res by artists such as Alentorn and Venanci
Although the city experienced growth spurts for the World Fair that Barcelona was hosting Vallmitjana.
during which it expanded quite significantly, that same year. This era isn't just a long faded
the growth always went hand in hand with the memory; buildings dating back to that time still The park also offers a great wealth in leisure
preservation or creation of parks and gardens. stand within the park's perimeter. Some of the activities such as walking, jogging, cycling or
Every neighbourhood has areas set aside for buildings have been preserved and many now simply spending a day outside and enjoying the
enjoying some peace and quiet amidst the serve other functions than they were originally sun and a picnic. Anyone interested in botany
green. The parks and gardens come in many intended for. For example, the Governor's and plants will definitely enjoy the great
shapes and sizes, some large and full of leisure Palace is now a secondary school and the old variety of species, most of which are clearly
activities, others marked by history and some arsenal now houses the Catalan Parliament. identified with a small plaque. The diverse bird
that are secret hideaways, tucked into the cen- Right next door is the Museum of Modern Art, species number more than a hundred and their
tre of city blocks. In addition to all the parks and visitors can also stop in at the old chapel. song and chatter add a lovely touch to the par-
and gardens within the city, Barcelona is also However, the museum isn't the only place to k's atmosphere. One of the most popular areas
surrounded by vast expanses of natural terrain find art in the park; in fact, art pieces are scat- in the park is definitely the lake. Children are
that are the perfect getaway for escaping the tered throughout the area. Outside the especially fond of the little row boats that can
city's traffic and pollution. The options are so Parliament, in what were once the old parade be rented (2€ per half hour) and rowed across
varied that it would be almost impossible to list grounds, lies a pretty, little lake surrounded by the lake, past the many ducks and around the
all of the parks and gardens in this section; the- gardens. At its centre stands one of the most "bald cypress tree" - a peculiar variety, native
refore, we have decided to focus on those that representative statues of Catalan modernism to certain areas in the United States, that can
stand out due to their historical significance, entitled "El Desconsol" by Josep Llimona. only grow inside the water.
their popularity amongst the local population or Another construction that has bestowed the
the type of activities that can be found within park with much fame is "La Cascada con el A rather strange sculpture stands to the left of
their perimeter. Carro de l'Aurora" (The Waterfall with Aurora's the lake - the stone mammoth, one of the most
Carriage). The piece in question is an enormous emblematic pieces in the park. It is a life-size
Parc de la Ciutadella fountain by Josep Fontseré and an almost inevi- rendition of the prehistoric animal and has gra-
This isn't merely the largest park in the city; it table stop along any walk through this park. ced this spot for more than a century. Children
is also the one most marked by history. In the The fountain as you see it now isn't exactly the are definitely the ones most taken with the
year 1888, the mayor at the time, Rius i Taulet, same as the original. After a renovation in mammoth, and the majority of them will jump
your walk through the park. This option allows
you to see a greater variety of plants, many of
which are marked with signs identifying their
species. Once you are familiar with the plants,
it isn't difficult to recognise them, allowing you
to learn and discover the Collserola vegetation
while enjoying your time outside.
skyline. Its spectacular design puts it on par sculpture, graphics, ceramics, theatre and texti- work in painting gave way to a time in which he
with the Palau de Sant Jordi and taken together les. If you want to gain insight into the many questioned the sense of this art form and began
these two buildings are harbingers of what can layers that made up this artist's genius, make to dedicate himself to sculptural work. This lat-
be expected of Barcelona in the future. The sure to visit all of the foundation's halls. Certain ter form achieved its pinnacle in the work com-
tower isn't the only imprint Calatrava has left on halls are dedicated to a specific theme, such as pleted during the Spanish Civil War. These pie-
the Catalan capital - he is also responsible for the Sala Tapiz, which houses sculptural pieces ces succinctly reflect the dichotomy that existed
the very original bridge that crosses the Bac de and the Sala Joan Prats, which is entirely focu- between the horrors of war and Miró's nature as
Roda Street in the Sant Martí district. sed on Miró's work from the sixties and seven- a dreamer. At the end of this inner struggle the
ties. The Sala Pilar Juncosa, named after the dreamer prevailed, and Miró returned to his
As you leave the Olympic area and head uphill, artist's wife, and the so-called Sala K are two classic, somewhat ingenuous vision of the
you will eventually reach the Montjuic Castle. other important spaces in the building. The world, a world filled with birds, stars, female
Nowadays, the castle is mostly recognised for terrace is an excellent observation deck from figures and lots of colour. Towards the end of
its cultural character, containing a variety of which to look out over the city. Some of Miró's his career, he worked in large format, creating
interesting museums, such as one dedicated to most interesting sculptural pieces, such as La murals that still decorate the Barcelona airport
arms and weaponry and another to the art of Caricia de un Pájaro (A Bird's Caress), a piece and Harvard University.
comics and illustration. However, the castle's done in painted bronze, are also exhibited on the
history is far less benevolent than it might seem terrace. The foundation houses a total of 11,000 Emerging from the imaginative world of Miró,
at first glance. Catalans view the place with Miró pieces: 240 paintings, 175 sculptures, 9 you now find yourself very close to the Poble
mixed emotions. During the Franco tapestries, 4 ceramic works, an almost complete Espanyol (Spanish Village). This is one of the
Dictatorship, the castle saw the execution of selection of his graphic work and 8,000 dra- city's most peculiar areas. Strolling down the lit-
many important personalities in the Catalan wings. tle streets inside the village walls, you notice
resistance, such as Lluís Companys, who, as that they are replicas of typical places from
president of the Generalitat de Catalunya at the The foundation's building, an architectural feat many different, Spanish regions. Artisans work
outset of the Spanish Civil War, was a figurehe- by Miró's close friend, Josep Lluís Sert, is in small shops along the cobblestone streets,
ad of Catalan nationalism. almost as extraordinary as the art inside. If a creating handicrafts from a variety of materials
visit to the wonderful world of Miró, populated and using ancient, traditional methods. Another
If the unusual museums inside the castle captu- with the female form, birds, the sky and stars, interesting nook in this unusual village is the
re your curiosity, take some time and visit the has whetted your appetite, make sure to pay Sculptural Garden, an open air collection of
exhibitions. The castle gardens are also worth a close attention when you find yourself on the contemporary pieces. Located inside the garden
peek, not so much for the gardens themselves Rambla. On the ground of this famous prome- is the Fran Daurel Foundation, home to an
but for the lovely views onto the harbour. After nade, close to the Liceu Theatre and the impressive collection of avant-garde paintings,
finishing your visit to the castle, head down to Boqueria Market, is a mosaic by Miró entitled sculptures and engravings. The foundation was
the Joan Miró Foundation. This museum is an Pla de l'Os. Another open air Miró creation is to inaugurated in 2001 and includes the work of
absolutely must-see stop on your Montjuic iti- be found in the l'Excorxador Park. The park is artists such as Dalí, Guinovart, Perejaume,
nerary. It houses one of the most important home to one of the artist's most magnificent Tàpies, Barceló, Millares and Picasso.
collections of the Catalan artist's work, inclu- sculptures, entitled Mujer y Pájaro (Woman and
ding a number of his famous paintings and Bird). The Poble Espanyol is more than just an archi-
sculptures as well as large-scale murals and tectural curiosity. It is frequently used for con-
tapestries. The unusual building - a fittingly Joan Miró (Barcelona, 1893 - Mallorca, 1983) certs or other cultural events, usually in con-
imaginative structure - is also worth the visit. was a multi-faceted artist, equally drawn to junction with other city festivals, such as the
The permanent collection is a survey of the many different art forms, including painting, Mercé or the Grec, one of the summer's cultural
international movement throughout Europe.
The collection's highlight is a series of mural
paintings that, due to their size, exceptional
quality and truly unique character, are conside-
red definitive of this style. Gothic art, on the
other hand, is characterised by a wealth of mate-
rials and the enormous variety of decorative and
figurative elements applied in an equally varied
number of techniques and typologies. These
include murals, paintings on tablets, gold- and
silversmithing, glazing, sculptural work with
stone, wood and marble. The majority of the
Gothic art stems from the period spanning the
13th and 15th centuries in Catalonia. The
museum also includes well-selected collections
of art from the Renaissance, the Baroque and
highlights. The main attraction during the Grec the 19th and 20th century with special emphasis
Festival, however, is the Grec Theatre. on the Modernist and Realist movements. And
Although its name and structure (akin to a if that weren't already more than sufficient, the
Greek amphitheatre) recall an ancient era, the museum also invites you to wander through its
theatre's origins are actually of a much more basement and visit its unusual collection of dra-
recent time. The architect Ramon Raventós wings and etchings, a coin collection reaching
built the theatre in 1929 for the International as far back as the 6th century B.C. and an enti-
Fair that took place that year. The theatre was re room dedicated to the art of photography,
built into an old quarry on one side of the moun- including both historical as well as avant-garde
tain. The entrance is adorned with gardens and work. If you wander down the immense series
a loggia typical of the era. The loggia also con- of steps that lead up to the MNAC, you reach
tains another treat for art lovers - a sculpture by the CaixaForum, a cultural centre located on the
Josep Viladomat, entitled La Noia de la Trena. Avenida Marquès de Comillas. The centre is
During the summer festival that bears its name, dedicated to a completely different time frame
the theatre hosts an always interesting and than the MNAC but is equally recommendable.
varied programme that includes theatrical, Located inside an old factory from the moder-
musical, dance and concert performances. The nist era, built by the architect Josep Puig i
festival has gained in popularity over the years Cadafalch, the centre organises different exhibi- ding are the geometry of its design, the sheer
and now has such a large following that other tions showcasing the work of contemporary precision of each piece and the unwavering cla-
venues have been added to support the growing painters, sculptors and photographers. In addi- rity with which it was all put together. In one
programme. Events often take place at venues tion to the exhibitions, the centre always offers area of the pavilion stands a reproduction of
such as the Picornell pool, usually site of events a series of lectures, conferences and children's Georg Kolbe's bronze sculpture Alba. The
on the children's programme, the Theatre activities. The centre's 3,000 square metres are sculpture, placed next to a small, decorative
Institute, the Mercat de les Flors, the Lliure divided up between three, separate halls, each pond, gives the space a dream-like, romantic
Theatre and even outdoor spaces such as the one focused on a different social or educational atmosphere enveloped in the otherwise tho-
Plaça del Rei. activity, as well as a multi-media centre and two roughly modern environment.
multi-purpose spaces. Last but not least, the
Another fascinating place just around the corner centre also has an impressive auditorium, which The walk comes to an end in Plaça Espanya,
from the Grec Theatre is the Archaeological can seat 350 people, and is used for a variety of after a leisurely stroll down the Avenida Maria
Museum of Catalonia. The museum is a form different events, such as film screenings and Cristina, past the immensely popular Magic
of time travel, taking visitors back to their most concerts. Fountain. This avenue is flanked by a number
ancient origins. The journey begins with prehis-
of pavilions that host the majority of fairs and
toric man and carries through our entire evolu- The Mies van der Rohe Pavilion, another glo- congresses held in the city. The Venetian
tion up to the middle ages. The collection con- rious reminder of the 1929 International Fair, is Towers that rise up to mark the end of the ave-
sists of important findings from a variety of just a few metres from the CaixaForum. The nue have become one of the most photographed
excavations undertaken in Catalonia and inclu- building marked a turning point in contempo- sites in Barcelona. The towers derive their name
des artefacts from ancient Catalan settlements rary architecture, and its interior is equally note- from the fact that their architect, Ramon
as well as other Iberian and Mediterranean cul- worthy. A true paradise for design lovers, who Raventós, modelled them after a Venetian bell
tures. The museum is located inside a building can admire pieces like the Barcelona Chair, an tower. They originally marked the entrance to
originally constructed to house the Graphic Arts object that is still relevant after all these years. the grounds of the 1929 International Fair and
Palace during the 1929 International Fair. Ludwig Mies van der Rohe designed the buil- measure 47 metres in height. The towers are the
ding as the German national pavilion for the perfect decorative element for the avenue lea-
At this point, you are making your way down 1929 International Fair. When the fair came to a ding up to the fountain and the MNAC, but they
towards Plaça Espanya. Set into the hillside close, the organisers decided to dismantle the aren't the only one - other imaginative, decora-
facing the square lies what is largely considered pavilion. It wasn't until years later that renewed tive elements are the fountains and illuminated
the city's best art museum, the National Art interest brought the pavilion back out of retire- columns that line the avenue. At night this
Museum of Catalonia also known by its popu- ment, and it was rebuilt at its exact, original stretch of road is absolutely stunning as the
lar acronym MNAC. Its building is equally location. columns, the steps and the fountain are all illu-
spectacular, being nothing less than the old
minated, and the MNAC is crowned with a
National Palace. The museum's forte is its Even in its heyday the pavilion was considered series of light beams. As you conclude your
extensive collection of medieval art. The many, a symbol of modernity, and it has since then walk and pass between the towers, you imme-
long halls inside the museum are like a journey been studied by many generations of architects. diately notice the busy traffic circulating the
through the entire art history of Catalonia. The The structure is made out of glass, steel, traver- roundabout, and you know that you have left the
section on Romanesque art brings together an tine and a variety of marble, but the building's tranquillity of Montjuic Mountain behind and
impressive selection of pieces from the 11th, originality doesn't reside solely in its materials. are once again immersed in the rhythms of the
12th and 13th centuries. This style of medieval The true achievements of this landmark buil- city.
art was the first of its kind to gain any kind of
Fundació Joan Miró
Parc de Montjuïc, s/n
Tel. +34 93 443 94 70
www.bcn.fjmiro.es
Timetable: October-June: open Tuesday-Saturday from 10am to 7pm; Thursday from 10am to 9:30pm and Sundays and holidays from
10am to 2:30pm. Closed Mondays, except holidays. Tickets: 7,20 € general admission. Temporary exhibitions + Espai 13: 3,60 €
Underground: Espanya (L1 and L3). Then take bus number 50 or 55.
Poble Espanyol
Avda Marquès de Comillas, 13
Tel. +34 93 508 63 00
Timetable: Open every day. Monday from 9am to 8pm. Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday from 9am to 2am. Friday and Saturday from
9am to 4am. Sundays from 9am to 12am. Free admission to the grounds starting at 8pm.
Underground: Espanya (L1 and L3). Then take any of the buses heading up Montjuic Mountain.
www.poble-espanyol.com
Galeria Olímpica
Estadi Olímpic - Passeig Olímpic, s/n
Tel. +34 93 426 06 60
www.fundaciobarcelonaolimpica.es
Timetable: October through March from 10am to 1pm and 4pm to 6pm. Closed Saturdays, Sundays and holidays.
Tickets: Adults 2,70 €. Children and senior citizens : 1,50 €
Underground: Espanya (L1 and L3). Then take bus number 55.
CaixaForum
Avda Marquès de Comillas, 6-8
Tel. +34 93 476 86 00
www.caixaforum.com
Timetable: Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 8pm.
Closed Mondays except holidays.
Free admission
Underground: Espanya (L1 and L3)
The Eixample has long had the reputation of choice, but the manner in which the central new neighbourhood, the upper classes saw it as
being Barcelona's most elegant district. The government imposed their decision angered the an escape from the crowded, disorderly streets
area's history is inextricably linked to the deve- Catalan capital, which had always fought relen- that were the norm in other city neighbourho-
lopment of Barcelona and its transformation tlessly for autonomy, and earned the plan a lot ods such as Ciutat Vella.
into a modern city. Barcelona prior to the 19th of ill will in Barcelona.
century would not be recognisable to most peo- The wealthy families of the reigning bourgeoi-
ple who know it today. The main and most As a result, the Cerdà Plan, which had origi- sie commissioned the best architects to design
immediately obvious difference was the city nally been conceived for the entire city, was their houses, who were, at that time, creative
wall that surrounded Barcelona, outside of limited to the section between Plaça Catalunya geniuses the likes of Antoni Gaudí, Josep Puig
which all construction and development was and Diagonal that we know as the Eixample i Cadafalch and Lluís Doménech i Montaner.
strictly forbidden. The space within the city today. The area was divided into two sections, This was how Modernism came to shape the
walls was sufficiently large to accommodate Esquerra and Dreta (left and right). The left and identity of the new city centre and gave birth
the population for many centuries. However, right sections can be easily identified by stan- to houses like Casa Batlló, Casa Milà and Casa
the beginnings of the industrial age brought ding on Passeig de Gràcia and looking up Amatller. These houses, once luxurious, opu-
about a vast increase in the city's population as towards the mountains with your back to the lent private residences throughout the 19th cen-
well as the demand for more areas on which to sea. tury, would eventually come to be considered
build factories. The demands of both the people the modernist landmarks of contemporary
and the industrial barons grew incessantly, and Cerdà's urban plan consisted of an enormous Barcelona.
local officials had to accept the fact that the cit- network of parallel and perpendicular streets,
y's needs had outgrown the confined space uniform in design, which formed almost squa- A route through the Eixample district takes you
within the city walls. re-like city blocks. The blocks were not perfect on a tour of all that is refined, elegant and
squares because their corners were cut off at wealthy in the city. This is where you can find
In the mid-19th century the decision was diagonal angles in order to improve visibility. classic, designer stores, prestigious hotels and
finally made to take down the city walls and The construction criteria were equally strict, much of the city's financial centre. The Passeig
open Barcelona up to the future. This crucial demanding that no building exceed a maximum de Gràcia and Rambla Catalunya define the
decision was met by another, almost equally height of three floors so as to create a feeling of area from north to south. They are intersected
important question: who would be put in char- space and wide, brightly lit streets. Another by perpendicular streets such as Diputació,
ge of developing the modern Barcelona, city of idea for bringing more light and green to the Consell de Cent, València, Mallorca and
the future? A competition commenced with the city was the creation of peaceful gardens at the Provença. The streets Balmes, Aribau and
goal of finding the most appropriate and quali- centre of each city block. Muntaner on the left and Pau Clarís, Bruc and
fied architect for the job. This brought about a Girona on the right run parallel to the two ele-
conflict between the Catalan government, Obviously, no plan is perfect and some of the gant avenues and thus form a quadrant that
which supported a plan by the architect Rovira criteria were not met. The majority of viola- brings together some of the city's most outstan-
i Trias, and the central government. The latter tions related to the height of the buildings. ding examples of modernist architecture. With
issued a decree that put the engineer Ildefons However, most of the streets in this area follow this brief historical introduction to the neigh-
Cerdà in charge of the project. In terms of the design accurately, thus creating an almost bourhood under your belt, you are now ready to
design, the Cerdà plan was probably the better perfect grid. When construction began on this head out and explore.
After crossing the wide avenue Gran Via de les tectural competition organised by the city that
PASSEIG DE GRÀCIA Corts Catalanes, you reach the oldest block in year. However, the building wasn't always gra-
the Eixample. This section of the area is delimi- ced with such glorious moments, and it too suf-
This is by far the most elegant and sophistica- ted by the streets Diputació, Consell de Cent, fered through the city's darker times.
ted avenue in the city. Looking down the length Roger de Llúria and Pau Clarís. The block itself
of the Passeig de Gràcia, with its high-end is bisected by a narrow, pleasant passage The building fell into a state of decline and was
designer stores and chic hotels, it is difficult to known as the Passatge Permanyer, which is largely forgotten for many years, especially in
imagine that it was once nothing more than a almost hidden from public view. This little stre- the mid-20th century. It was attacked several
dirt road connecting the walled in city with the et is flanked by some very interesting buildings times during the Spanish Civil War and during
little village Gràcia on the hill. It wasn't until that still preserve the interior gardens as they the post-war period. The building had once
the mid-19th century that the road started to were originally designed by Ildefons Cerdà. been adorned with extraordinary sculptures by
take on its modern appearance. Wealthy fami- the Catalan artist Eusebi Arnau. These sculptu-
lies commissioned houses along this avenue, The Manzana de la Discordia res, which represented mythical nymphs, were
the city adorned it with modernist streetlamps Heading up the avenue towards Diagonal, you almost completely destroyed during this violent
and benches and theatres and other leisure come to one of the most interesting sections of period.
venues opened their doors to cater to the plea- not only Passeig de Gràcia but of all Barcelona.
sures of the rich. At one point the area even had This is the so-called Manzana de la Discordia However, a curious anecdote explains why
a racecourse! All of these activities and esta- (a fun little word play since manzana means some of the nymphs managed to escape this
blishments earned the area the nickname both apple and city block - therefore, roughly fate. The building's doorman, who witnessed
Elysian Fields for its classy and yet fun-loving translated, it can mean both apple and block of the attack, rescued the sculptures that remained
character. Anyone with any sort of standing in discord). This block is located between Consell intact. Some time later, Salvador Dalí develo-
the upper echelons of Barcelona society had to de Cent and Aragó, and the name refers to the ped an interest in the nymphs and bought them
frequent the Passeig de Gràcia social circles or rather disparate and visually stunning effect for what would amount to 30 € today. If you
produced by having three of the most exem- head out to the Dalí Museum in Figueres, loca-
plary, modernist buildings within a mere 100 ted in the neighbouring province Girona, you
metres of each other. can still find one of the nymphs there.
The first building you encounter is the Casa Interest in the building resurfaced in 1992 and
a restoration process began to recuperate the
lost elements and guarantee the preservation of
this historic structure. The building has now
been returned much of its original glory, and
visitors can enjoy its perfectly restored appea-
rance. The inside is also a wonderful example
Josep Puig i Cadafalch designed a number of house. The silhouettes have been interpreted as
important buildings in Barcelona, including the The building displays all the materials conside- paying homage to Sant Jordi (Saint George),
Casa de les Punxes also known as the Casa red characteristic of the modernist style. Gaudí patron saint of Catalonia, in his fight against
Terrades. This building was built at the begin- covered the entire facade and the roof with the dragon. It is important to remember that the
ning of the 20th century, and the six, pointed colourful ceramic tile, arranged into his classic school of modernism was heavily influenced
towers endow it with a certain, medieval look. mosaics. The balconies and most of the decora- and fascinated by medieval ideas. In medieval
Due to the political climate that marked Spain tive elements inside were fashioned out of legends the dragon isn't a fearsome monster;
in the early 20th century and Puig i Cadafalch's rather, the creature is seen as representing pas-
leftist leanings, the architect had to go into sion, strength and wisdom.
exile in Paris in 1936. That was the year the
Spanish Civil War broke out and when it came Gaudí also saved enough imaginative spirit to
to a close in 1939, the ruling government of create an equally original interior design. It is
Dictator Francisco Franco prevented him from almost impossible to find a single, straight line
practising his profession in Spain. or corner in the entire house. This fact produ-
ced a rather interesting anecdote in its time. As
The last building on this block is the Casa the story goes, Mrs. Batlló expressed some
Batlló (Passeig de Gràcia, 43). When asked in concern during the construction process becau-
1905 what he hoped to achieve with this buil- se the design didn't seem to provide enough
ding, Antoni Gaudí replied "a vision of paradi- space for her daughter's grand piano. Gaudí
se". In a way, he managed to achieve his goal, didn't pay much heed to her concern until he
if paradise can take on the form of a truly uni- finished the house and realised that she had
que and stunning building. Aside from being been right all along. The piano didn't fit. Gaudí,
quite simply an object of beauty, the Casa ever resourceful, told Mrs. Batlló that her
Batlló is also a jewel of Catalan modernism. wrought-iron. And the windows were designed daughter should forget about the piano and ins-
However, the building didn't always garner to create a perfect play between light and tead take up the violin.
such glorious reviews - in fact, at the time of its colour that endow the spaces inside the house
Up towards the Avenida Diagonal ce area". This revolutionary concept did away
A little further up the avenue, on the opposite with the master wall and instead used pillars
side of the street from the Casa Batlló, you and partition walls as support structures. As a
encounter another must-see landmark. In this result, the tenant could change the arrangement
case, the landmark in question is neither a of the rooms at free will and as often as desired.
museum nor a monument. It is a store called This was the premise for one of the most radi-
Vinçon, located at Passeig de Gràcia, 96. This cally innovative and abstract works of architec-
store represents the kind of modern design that tural sculpture, which is all the more impressi-
has made Barcelona famous, and you can find ve for not once using a straight line.
just about anything here, including office and
household items, rare and valuable furniture Visitors can freely explore the entire interior as
and industrial design pieces. The apartment well as head up to the roof and wander amongst
located above the store is an additional attrac- the peculiar chimneys. The Pedrera was the
tion; this was where Ramon Casas, one of point of departure for three of the artist's most
Spain's most important modernist painters, important, emblematic projects (the Casa
once lived. The studio has been maintained Batlló, the Sagrada Familia and the Park
almost untouched since Casas worked here, Güell), which makes it an excellent place for
and the pretty interior patio allows visitors a gaining insight into Gaudí's unique artistic
glimpse into what daily life is like in the vision. During the summer, the terrace is also
Eixample today. open in the evenings and offers a programme of
jazz and flamenco concerts. The building's
Another of the city's landmark, modernist buil- interior is open all year, and the rooms belon-
dings, the Casa Milà, is located just a short dis- ging to the Cultural Centre Caixa Catalunya
tance ahead. Many consider this house to be often host temporary exhibitions. A visit to the almost like two sides of the same coin but with
one of Gaudí's crowning achievements. The centre includes access to the attic, which con- almost exactly opposite personalities. The two
building is officially known by the original tains an exhibition of illustrations about the promenades offer an excellent look at two very
owners' surname, but locals didn't hesitate to architect's work. different worlds within the same city.
christen it with a more colloquial pet name: La
Pedrera. The nickname is derived from the The route continues until Avenida Diagonal, An interesting building can be found at number
building's impressive stone facade (piedra is where you come to the Palau Robert, one of 33. This is the Casa Rodolf Juncadella, desig-
Spanish for stone) which, despite being diffi- the few remaining, urban palaces. It is now the ned by Enric Sagnier, one of the architects
cult to imagine today, was the subject of moc- Information Centre of Catalonia. The Tourism popular amongst the Barcelona aristocracy in
kery and criticism in its day. Not even the buil- Office provides information on routes, trans- the 19th century. The architect was also a
ding's first owner, Mrs. Milà, was all that con- port and points of interest throughout the four, tenant of this area; his studio was located at
tent with the design, and when Gaudí died she Catalan provinces. Every six months, the pala- Rambla Catalunya number 104. The small pas-
changed the entire interior decor, opting for a ce organises a topical exhibition as well as sage between the streets Provença and
far more classical look a la Louis XVI. workshops and multimedia presentations about Mallorca, the Passatge Mercader, still features
different cultural subjects. a few English-style houses along its length as
Despite resistance and criticism, Gaudí never well as the fascinating Museum of Medicine.
wavered in his decision to use La Pedrera as his THE RAMBLA CATALUNYA The museum takes a look at this science and its
first experiment with the concept of "free surf The Rambla Catalunya has never enjoyed the disciplines from the 18th century onwards and
same level of fame as the Passeig de Gràcia, displays material and furniture from that era as
but it follows almost the same trajectory and well as a 19th century laboratory.
exhibits a similar elegance. Before the
Eixample was developed, the stretch now cove- Further ahead, at the intersection with Carrer
red by the Rambla Catalunya was little more Rosselló, is the Santa Maria de Montsió
than a small stream. When the Passeig de Church. The church also has an interesting
Gràcia ran out of space, the wealthy families anecdote to tell. Originally, it was located in the
began building their mansions along the neigh- old city centre. However, the aristocrats felt
bouring avenue. The construction criteria, that they needed a place of worship closer to
however, were more lax along the Rambla home so they moved the church to its new loca-
Catalunya, which resulted in taller and more tion piece by piece.
dissimilar buildings. The lack of a defining
architectural style caused the avenue to lose THE SURROUNDING STREETS
much of its potential charm and beauty. The streets that intersect Passeig de Gràcia and
Rambla Catalunya also contain their share of
Nonetheless, it is still a very pleasant place for elegant surprises. Carrer València number 284,
a stroll as well as offering a wide selection of for example, is where you can find the
bars, street cafés, clothing stores (often selling Egyptian Museum of Barcelona, right in front
exclusive designer brands) and other lovely, of the Hotel Majestic. This museum is home to
noble buildings. This is also the route that con- one of the most important private collections
nects the Rambla with Avenida Diagonal, worldwide, which acquires several new pieces
starting at Plaça Catalunya. In fact, they are every year. The owner gladly shares his histori-
cal treasure with the public, and the museum law profession. However, if you don't call owed in large part to the original sculptural
even organises nocturnal tours complete with attention to the fact that you are a tourist, you piece Nube y Silla (Cloud and Chair) located
theatrical performances to bring you closer to can easily slip inside and take a look at the cen- high on the building's facade.
the time of the pharaohs. This specialised tour tral patio and, if you are a lucky, peek into the
requires a prior reservation (Tel. 93 488 01 88). library.
Carrer Mallorca also contains some important The Casa Thomas, another building by
buildings. It is rather common in Barcelona Domènech i Montaner, is located at Carrer
that urban palaces not used as museums have Mallorca, 293. In addition to the building's
been taken over by official institutions. This is architectural value, one of the most important
the case of the Palau Ramon Muntaner, loca- stores specialising in avant-garde design, B.D.
ted at number 278 and designed by Lluís Ediciones de Diseño, is located on the bottom
Doménech i Montaner. Nowadays, it houses floor. The store is the only place, for example,
the Catalan government's delegation. The inte- to market and sell designs by Salvador Dalí.
rior decor still preserves much of the classic, by
now invaluable furniture as well as sculptures Carrer Aragó is another important avenue and
by artists such as Eusebi Arnau. Arnau collabo- site of the Antoni Tàpies Foundation. The foun-
rated quite frequently with the architect dation was inaugurated in 1990 and is located
Doménech i Montaner. One of their most inside a building once used by the old publis-
famous joint efforts is the modernist complex hing house Montaner i Simó, designed, yet
at the Sant Pau Hospital. again, by Doménech i Montaner. The founda-
tion is the perfect place to explore the Catalan
Another example of an urban palace is the artist's work as well as take advantage of the
Palau Casades, located at Carrer Mallorca, temporary exhibitions, symposiums, conferen-
283. The building is now used by the Colegio ces, film screenings and other cultural events
de Abogados, the local Bar Association, and organised here on a regular basis. The building
generally access is reserved for people in the is impossible to miss - its striking appearance is
Palau Robert
Passeig de Gràcia, 107
Tel. +34 93 238 80 91
www.gencat.net/probert
Timetable: Monday-Saturday, 10am-7pm. Sundays and holidays, 10am-2:30pm.
Underground: Diagonal (L3 and L5)
The Gràcia neighbourhood has always been a adorned streets and a lot of good eating and benches, one of which might catch your eye.
little world onto its own, marked by centuries drinking. Gràcia also maintains the political Seated on the bench, as if resting, is the life-
of charm and a very independent spirit. In fact, and social spirit that has coloured the area for size, iron sculpture of a man. This "eternal citi-
during the 19th century Gràcia wasn't part of centuries and is often the site of demonstra- zen" is no other than the square's namesake, the
Barcelona at all; rather, it was a small village tions, marches and gatherings. The neighbour- Catalan architect Antoni Rovira i Trias, who
nestled into the hills outside the city walls. It hood's thoroughly individual character permea- loved strolling through these streets during his
wasn't until the walls were torn down that tes the atmosphere and a leisurely stroll lifetime.
Gràcia became a Barcelona neighbourhood, through its many little streets and squares gives
embraced by the expanding growth of the city. you an invaluable look into this charming, uni- If you head up Carrer Torrijos, you will see the
que place. Plaza de la Virreina up ahead. After crossing
The neighbourhood is clearly demarcated by Carrer l'Or, you find yourself in front of the
streets such as Avenida Diagonal, Vía Augusta, The two underground stations that flank the square's famous landmark, a church dating
Príncip d'Astúries, Travessera de Dalt, neighbourhood are Fontana (L3) on Gran de back to 1878. This simple yet lovely parish
Sardenya, Pi i Maragall, Córcega and Bailén. Gràcia Street and Joanic (L4) on Plaza Joanic. church takes up the upper end of the square.
However, despite being so clearly defined, the We will set out from the latter square, which You can wander inside and take a look at the
neighbourhood is actually larger than you isn't of any particular historical or architectural altar, the church's most distinguishing element.
might think. It can be divided into two sec- interest but offers a very practical way of laun- There are two little streets on either side of the
tions, each one very different in appearance and ching an exploration of the neighbourhood. church; the one to the left leads past a curious
atmosphere. One area resembles the Eixample, One interesting detail to note is that the square element embedded into the side of the building
following the famous grid-like pattern designed is dedicated to the Catalan writer and politician - a small plaque dedicated to the memory of
by Ildefons Cerdà. The other is what remains of Francesc Pi i Maragall, who served as president Joaquín Blume. The gymnast, who died in a
the traditional, old village that Gràcia once under the first Spanish Republic. The square fateful accident at the height of his career, was
was. It is this latter section that we will explore itself is constantly undergoing urban improve- originally from this neighbourhood.
on our walk through the neighbourhood. ments, including a now completed under-
ground parking garage topped by a small park Since the square is located in the centre of the
Gràcia has a very special and unique character with swings for children and ping pong tables neighbourhood, it is usually full of people and
that lies somewhere between a bohemian artsy for older playful spirits. buzzing with a lively and vibrant atmosphere.
enclave and the latest, cutting-edge trends. If you are here on a Sunday morning, you will
This is largely the result of local efforts, which Heading up Torrent de les Flors, you reach the more than likely find yourself at an arts and
have turned Gràcia into a popular spot for both Plaza Rovira i Trias, an excellent place from crafts fair, comprised of many, individual stalls
nocturnal and daytime leisure activities. The which to explore the many little streets that selling many interesting, second hand goods
month of August, for example, sees people lead deep into the neighbourhood. At first glan- and, as is to be expected, many local, handma-
from throughout the city flock to Gràcia to par- ce it looks like just about any ordinary square, de crafts.
take in the cheerful madness of the Fiestas de but it does hold one detail of special interest.
Gràcia, a week-long street celebration comple- Thanks to its central location and lively atmos-
te with outdoor stages, live acts, creatively The square is surrounded by a number of stone phere, Plaça de la Virreina is definitely one of
the neighbourhood's most important squares. It Cajal and head over to Plaça del Sol. This clas-
was renovated in 1999, a process that included sic square is lined with a variety of restaurants
the planting of many different species of trees, and bars and is a popular gathering spot on
an element that has done much to improve the summer evenings. Another interesting detail is
appearance of the square. Another element to the statue named Astrolabi, a piece by Joaquim
benefit from the renovation was the fountain, Camps, which adorns one side of the square.
which still bears the village's old coat of arms. After crossing Travessera de Gràcia, the street
Another traditional fountain graces the Plaça immediately below the square, you can take
del Nord, which can be reached by heading any of the little cross-streets down to the Plaça
north on Carrer Alzina or Carrer Ventallat. This Rius i Taulet, the neighbourhood's administra-
square was developed in 1851, when Gràcia tive centre.
was still an independent village. The fountain
hasn't changed in almost 100 years; if you look In the centre of the square stands one of
closely you can still see the ancient village's Gràcia's famous landmarks: the clock tower,
coat of arms, a lyre encircled by two laurel also known as the Gràcia bell tower. The tower
branches, much like on the fountain in Plaça was built by the architect Antoni Rovira i Trias
Virreina. ations abound in the area. One of the most inte- and is crowned by a clock with four faces,
resting is Modart, on Carrer Astúries, where designed so that it could be seen from every
The square is also home to a cultural organisa- even the display windows are works of art. corner of the old village. If you stand in front of
tion, Els Lluïsos de Gràcia, which has operated Verdi also has an excellent variety of shops as the city hall and face the tower, you will notice
in the neighbourhood for a long time. Take a well as restaurants, cafes and a cinema famous an entrance. This entrance grants you access to
step back and look up at the organisation's buil- for offering some of the most interesting, alter- the spiral staircase, which winds all the way up
ding, and you will notice that it has a peculiar native programming in Barcelona. Strolling to the clock's mechanism. Albert Billeter, a
sun dial embedded into the facade. down Verdi, after crossing the streets Perla and Swiss-born clockmaker, not only constructed
Vallfogona, brings you to the Plaça de la this mechanism but was also responsible for
As you wander towards Carrer Gran de Gràcia, Revolució de Setembre de 1868. introducing Spain to the electrical clock in
you come to the Plaça del Diamant. The squa- general.
re shares its name with a marvellous novel by Walking around the square, you are likely to
Catalan author Mercè Rodoreda, which has notice some letters engraved into the ground. The square also recalls one of the most cheer-
been adapted to film, stage and television.
Therefore, the Plaça del Diamant is much more
than simply a square; the name has embedded
itself into the collective imagination of the city.
The novel tells the story of La Colometa, the
irresistibly likeable protagonist, and is set in
post-war Barcelona. La Colometa was immor-
talised in a sculptural piece by the artist Xavier
Medina-Campeny, which now adorns the squa-
re.
Since the individual letters are set rather far ful events to take place in the neighbourhood. A
apart, you might dismiss them as mere decora- plaque pays tribute to a special human tower
tion. They do, however, fit together to spell a that the "Castellers" (one of the great and still
word - starting in the right corner and reading vibrantly alive Catalan traditions) built right
from north to south they form the word "revo- next to the clock tower.
lució" (revolution in Catalan). This might seem
a tad peculiar until you discover that Gràcia is The next stop on our walk takes you into an
famous for having a political and revolutionary entirely different world. If you take Carrer
spirit. However, an air of protest doesn't really Torrent de l'Olla to Carrer Siracusa and then
linger in the square anymore; instead, it is a turn left, you will find yourself next to two lit-
pretty place with lots of cafes and restaurants tle squares set only a few metres apart. The
with outdoor terraces and a small playground Plaça del Poble Romaní and the Plaça del
for children. Raspall are home to the neighbourhood's
Roma (otherwise referred to as Gypsy) popula-
After enjoying a break on Plaça de la tion, who have found in these squares a place in
Revolució, take a right on Carrer Ramon i which to celebrate their unique culture. Many
mistakenly believe that the rumba, a flamenco- Gran de Gràcia widens before reaching and of itself, but you will definitely come
style dance, is an Andalusian invention. In fact, Diagonal, and this open, spacious stretch is across it during your exploration of the city.
it was born right here, in Catalonia, and one of lined with trees and has a pretty, green "island" Therefore, it might be interesting to know the
its first and truest masters was Gato-Pérez. A along its centre known as Jardinets de Gràcia. aforementioned details about its peculiar archi-
small plaque mounted on a wall in the square Besides lovely green lawns and shade-giving tectural design.
remembers this musical master and his contri- trees, the gardens are also distinguished by two
butions. statues at either end. The area looks so quiet Once you are on Avenida Diagonal, facing the
and peaceful that it is hard to believe that it is sea, you can turn right and head up to Plaça
The walk comes to an end with a moment of most famous for its dissenting spirit. Francesc Macià, another crucial intersection.
tranquillity in one of the area's modern squares Throughout history it has been a gathering spot Taking a left turn, on the other hand, leads you
named after singer John Lennon. This quiet, for many politically motivated protests and further into the Eixample, where you can conti-
serene spot is just around the corner from the meetings. And even today, its lush peaceful nue your exploration of the city with several
market along Travessera de Gràcia and was atmosphere often gives way to groups who use other interesting routes, such as the one along
inaugurated in 1993 in order to connect the the space to express their ideas and grievances. the Passeig de Sant Joan. Not far from here,
streets Puigmartí, Quevedo and Milà i At the upper end of the gardens, right at the you can visit another monument that you
Fontanals. corner with Gran de Gràcia, lies the Hotel should definitely include on your itinerary: the
Casa Fuster, the only hotel in Spain to be Casa de les Punxes (Avda Diagonal, 416).
designated a five-star, deluxe Grand Hotel and
historical monument. The building is a specta-
cularly beautiful creation by modernist archi-
tect Lluís Doménech i Montaner and houses
one of the most elegant and unique cafés in the
city. If you cannot resist the plush surroundings
and head in for something to drink be prepared
to pay five-star prices! A coffee with milk, for
example, costs 6 €.
what eccentric and very original. The corner Rambla segue ways into its last stretch, the
looking out onto the Rambla is adorned with a Rambla de Santa Mónica. The right side fea-
Chinese dragon that keeps a menacing watch tures another of the city's premium theatres, the
over the entire promenade. Teatre Principal. The building was originally
built in the 16th century as a charitable institu-
The beginning of the Rambla dels Caputxins tion. However, yet again a fire destroyed much
is unmistakable; it is marked by an authentic, of the building's original structure, and it was
open-air art piece. Keep your eyes on the rebuilt and renovated several times. Currently,
ground, and you will notice the enormous its facade is adorned with the busts of several
mosaic, a piece by Joan Miró, covering most of famous actors and actresses from the past.
the Rambla's midsection. When you reach this
an imaginative, ever-changing cast of charac- point take a look to your right. The building On the left side of the Rambla is yet another of
ters, including Che Guevara, Humphrey that stands here is a temple for all opera lovers the city's curiosities: the Museu de la Cera
Bogart, Cleopatra as well as more generic types - the Gran Teatre del Liceu. The building was (Wax Museum). The museum has 350 famous,
like floral arrangements, cowboys, angels, completely and accurately reconstructed after immobile tenants. Some of the individuals
devils and surrealist paintings, and they can being severely damaged by a fire in 1994. For immortalised in wax are real-life celebrities;
remain immobile for hours. If you want to see many years, this was an exclusive gathering the others are classic, fictional characters.
them move, you will have to provide them with spot for the bourgeoisie's most refined mem- Children will definitely enjoy visiting some of
a financial contribution towards their art. bers. Nowadays, holding a season pass to the their story-book favourites like Pinocchio,
Liceu is still a rather distinguished affair; Cinderella, Batman and Sleeping Beauty.
The Palau de la Virreina is located on your however, times have changed and the opera is Adults are not excluded from the fun either and
right, just a few metres further down the no longer the elitist art it was in the 19th cen- can marvel at the accurate reproduction of his-
Rambla. This palace was built by Manual Amat tury. Many different kinds of people flock to torical figures, Hollywood stars and legendary
i Junyent, Viceroy of Peru, as a gift to his wife, the Liceu to enjoy an opera or one of the many characters from classic, horror films. The
who the building is named after. The identity of other types of performances organised at the museum offers a variety of different activities,
the actual architect remains a mystery, but one theatre. The café immediately in front of the the most fun being the personalised, nocturnal
thing is certain - the palace possesses a refined, Liceu is appropriately named the Café de tours. These tours are especially designed for
grand elegance. Nowadays, it is used for gathe- l'Opera and used to be a popular gathering spot groups who wish to surprise one of their mem-
rings, exhibitions and conferences. A few steps for intellectuals. Today it still attracts the post- bers, such as birthday, hen and stag parties. The
further down, the telltale scents wafting opera crowd as well as many tourists attracted tour is led by an actor, who is well-equipped
towards you and the busy crowds heading to by the café's illustrious past. with all sorts of information about the person
and fro announce the presence of another land- who is to be surprised. The guide then gra-
mark: the Boqueria Market (please see our As you head further down the Rambla, you dually weaves this information into the content
of the tour, relating the subject with as many of the Rambla is marked by a famous monument,
the museum's personalities as possible. a tribute to the explorer Christopher Columbus.
The monument commemorates Columbus' pre-
The museum is just around the corner from one sentation of his first American voyage to the
of Barcelona's most unique and charming cafés Catholic Monarchs, an event that took place in
- El Bosc de les Fades (the Fairy Forest). The Barcelona. The tall, iron column with a statue
café's interior resembles an enchanted forest, of Columbus on top has become one of
complete with magical castles and gnome huts Barcelona's symbolic landmarks. Something
hidden between trees and small springs of fewer people know is that there is an elevator
water. The café is made up of several, separate inside the column that takes visitors up to the
spaces, each one recreating a different environ- top. It is definitely a ride worth taking since the
ment. One resembles an old saloon from the top offers a lovely panoramic view of the city.
frontier days of the Wild West. Another space,
known as the Room of Wonders, invites guests The Columbus monument faces the sea and the
to sit back and allow their imagination to take port where the Golondrinas still dock, just as
flight. This is the perfect café for taking a break they have for centuries. They are typical fishing
and escaping into a completely unique and fan- boats that are now mainly used as a tourist
tastical world. attraction. They offer tours along the city's
coastline all the way to the new Forum
After passing a street called Arc del Teatre, ves- grounds. The same tours are also offered by
tibule to the city's red-light district, you come modern catamarans, but they can't hold a can-
to the Santa Mónica Art Centre, located next to dle to the charm of the traditional Golondrinas.
a church of the same name. The centre hosts a
variety of exhibitions and events and little If you aren't up for a boat ride, you can instead
about the building recalls its past as a convent. opt for a visit to the piece of land that
The end of the Rambla still holds a surprise in Barcelona took back from the sea in 1992. To
store - a reward for the enthusiastic explorer. access this area, cross over the Rambla de
The Drassanes building originates from the Mar, a wooden footbridge held up by an iron
Middle Age and is the largest of its kind to still support structure that adds a modern twist to
exist intact. It is also the most important exam- the classic idea of the promenade. The Rambla
ple in Barcelona of a civil building designed in de Mar ends at the Moll d'Espanya, site of the
the Gothic style. The building underwent a pre- Maremagnum shopping centre, the IMAX the-
cise and careful renovation and is now open to atre and the Barcelona aquarium.
the public. The Maritime Museum is also loca-
ted in one section of this building. The end of
No one questions the fact that Barcelona is a fishermen, who lived in precarious conditions. (L4) underground station. If you prefer to skip
Mediterranean city. For many years, however, The first houses were built in 1754. The cons- the walking tour, you can also opt for a ride in
the local population seemed to forget its coas- truction process brought with it a significant the Golondrinas, the traditional fishing boats
tline, letting what is now considered one of the increase in population. Fishermen and people that leave from the port in front of the
city's most attractive features fall into a state of working a variety of harbour jobs flocked to the Columbus monument. However, the boat tour
disrepair. The four kilometre-long beaches, new settlement. will only provide you with an impression of the
divided into sections named Sant Sebastià, La area's coastline, and the most integral aspect of
Barceloneta, Nova Icària, Bogatell, Mar Bella Nowadays, the neighbourhood still maintains the neighbourhood's charm lies in its maze of
and Nova Mar Bella, are the result of a rather its unique character. La Barceloneta feels like a tiny, narrow streets.
recent effort. The sandy beaches with their different world, a village removed from the city
beach bars (chiringuitos) and wide promenade that surrounds it. However, the atmosphere The walking tour begins at the Palau de Mar
now attract 7 million visitors every year, quite bears little resemblance to the fishing village of building. If you want to know a little more
a record for an area that was once little more years ago. It has become one of the city's live- about the Catalan region, stop in at the
than an industrial wasteland. liest areas, especially in the summer when the Catalonia History Museum, located inside
beaches fill with people and the chiringuitos the Palau de Mar (Plaça Pau de la Vila, 3. Tel.
The beaches were rehabilitated and cleaned up (beach bars) and bars located on the sand open 932 254 700). The museum houses a permanent
as part of the city's preparations for the 1992 for the season. These are the best hang-outs in exhibition about Catalonia's history, starting
Olympic Games, which gave Barcelona's coas- the summer, chilled-out places with music and from prehistoric times and spanning the indus-
tline a much needed face-lift. This effort turned a fun-loving atmosphere where you can dine trial period, the Franco era and the years lea-
what was once a half-forgotten, industrial and have drinks until late into the night. ding up to Catalonia's democracy. If your time
terrain dotted with decaying factories into a travel has exhausted you, take a break in the
long stretch of attractive beaches, equipped However, the neighbourhood hasn't lost its café, which has a lovely terrace overlooking the
with all necessary services. The area's rehabili- roots entirely - it has managed to blend this neighbourhood and the marina. After a few
tation was particularly beneficial to two neigh- modern facet with the age-old smell of salt and relaxing moments, you can continue your
bourhoods: La Barceloneta, once an old fishing the memories of its seafaring past. Many trea- exploration of the area by heading down the
village, and Vila Olímpica (the Olympic sure the fact that a neighbourhood like this can Passeig Joan de Borbó.
Village) which, as its name indicates, was cons- still survive and preserve its identity within a
tructed with the express purpose of serving as city as modern as Barcelona. And it does seem One of the area's oldest structures is the Clock
an accommodation facility during the Olympic strange sometimes, the contrast between the Tower, located on the Moll dels Pescadors,
Games. narrow, humid streets, blackened by years of near the museum. Built in 1772, the tower ser-
salt residue deposits, and the first-class, high- ved as the port's lighthouse until the mid-19th
LA BARCELONETA end restaurants that line them and the luxurious century. When the port was restructured to
yachts docked in the marina. modernise its installations, the lighthouse was
La Barceloneta was largely uninhabited until no longer needed. However, due to its age and
the mid-18th century. Its immediate proximity The best point from which to start your explo- historical relevance, the city preserved the
to the sea attracted the first inhabitants, mostly ration of this neighbourhood is the Barceloneta tower and turned it into a clock. The best time
to explore this particular area is in the late slums. The slums were dismantled in the them the opportunity to not only observe the
afternoon or early evening. The fishing boats 1960s, but memories of that time still linger marine eco-system but also touch and investi-
return to the port around five o'clock, and La throughout the neighbourhood. gate it.
Barceloneta, much like other fishing villages
along the coast, still practices the traditional The atmosphere changes radically once you THE VILA OLÍMPICA (THE OLYMPIC
fish auction. This age-old event takes place reach the beach. La Barceloneta is now a cos- VILLAGE)
inside a building known as La Llotja. Gaining mopolitan neighbourhood, a fact manifested
access to the building and the auction might most clearly during the summer months. La This is one of the most recently developed
prove challenging, but you shouldn't let your- Barceloneta is graced with one of the liveliest neighbourhoods in the city, built expressly for
self get discouraged. After all, nothing is lost and most popular beaches. While some people the 1992 Olympic Games. The village was
by trying! bathe and work on their tans, others wander the originally conceived as an accommodation
sand selling jewellery, cold drinks, snacks, facility for the many athletes who came to par-
The traditional section of the neighbourhood sarongs or offering services such as massages ticipate in the Games. After the event had come
now unfolds to your left in a quadrant of many, and temporary tattoos. Then there are those to its conclusion, the apartments were put up
tiny streets. As you wander through them, you who like to turn up the volume and dance to for sale, and the area is now a residential com-
are still greeted by freshly washed laundry han- enticing Cuban beats or intrepid kite-flying munity. The housing complex was designed by
ging outside windows, traditional shops, wine enthusiasts who don't seem to mind the masses the architectural team Martorell, Bohigas,
cellars (bodegas), bars and some of the city's of people around them. Of course this means Mackay and Puigdomènech, who used the
best seafood restaurants. In fact, one of that the beach is crowded, but the resulting opportunity to create a completely new kind of
Barcelona's most renowned restaurants, Can atmosphere is so cheerful and vibrant that you neighbourhood.
Solé (Sant Carles, 4), is located here, serving will not want to miss out on the fun.
exquisite seafood for more than a hundred In addition to housing complexes, the area also
La Barceloneta faces the Port Vell, the section includes two buildings that have become signi-
of land that the city took back from the sea, and ficant highlights along the city skyline as well
which is also accessible using the footbridge at as modern Barcelona landmarks. The first is the
the end of the Rambla. This modern stretch of Hotel Arts, designed by the architects Bruce
land surrounded by sea offers visitors a lot of Gram and Frank O. Gehry. The slim, silver and
leisure options including a shopping centre, blue skyscraper has 456 luxurious rooms over-
restaurants, bars, nightclubs and two of the cit- looking the sea. The second building, located
y's most fascinating venues: the IMAX cinema immediately across from the hotel, is the
and the Aquarium. Mapfre Tower. Designed by Iñigo Ortiz and
Enrique de León, the building is used as office
The IMAX theatre (Moll d'Espanya, s/n. Tel. space by a variety of companies and has a
932 251 111) is the city's most modern, cutting- shopping centre on the bottom floor. The two
edge cinema showing films in IMAX, skyscrapers both measure 153,5 metres, which
Omnimax and 3D. Visitors can experience a 3D makes them the tallest buildings in Spain.
voyage into the human body or groove to the
beats of Carlinhos Brown played over the best The square between the towers, Plaça dels
sound system imaginable. The Aquarium (Moll Voluntaris, is famous for its gigantic fountain.
years. d'Espanya, s/n. Tel. 932 217 474) is the largest If you head down from the square towards the
in Europe and allows visitors the chance to dis- sea, you come across one of the area's most
La Barceloneta is also an excellent place for cover the widest variety of Mediterranean characteristic sculptures - the Pez de Oro (Fish
traditional "tapas". One of the absolute classics marine life. The space consists of twenty enor- of Gold). The sculpture, a piece by one of the
is la bomba, a potato dumpling filled with meat mous tanks and a long, transparent tunnel, Hotel Arts' creators, architect Frank O. Gehry,
and served with a spicy sauce or the traditional which allows visitors to walk amongst the consists of many metal plates that change
all i oli (a dip made out of olive oil and garlic). sharks. The most recently inaugurated section, colour depending on how the sunlight falls
This is a treat worthy of its name and requires Explora, offers a series of interactive activities upon them.
a strong palate. This tapa is best accompanied aimed primarily at children. Explora gives
with a cold beer, either a caña (draft beer) or a
glass straight from the barrel, which is always
served ice cold.
INFORMACIÓN ÚTIL
The museum immediately in front of the pala- city's growing avant-garde movement. These The cool interior, illuminated solely with can-
ce is probably the most frequently visited were his famous, bohemian years in the city, a dlelight, turn this into a refuge from the world
museum in the city. The Picasso Museum time in which he became closely associated outside, disconnected from the whirl of activity
(Montcada 15-19) contains more than 3,500 with the city's modernist movement and exhibi- filling the Born and the city at large. Many also
pieces, which the artist personally donated to ted his work for the first time at the popular believe that Santa Eulalia, the city's first patron
the city in 1970. The collection is an excellent café and gathering spot Els Quatre Gats. The saint, lies buried beneath the church's founda-
survey of Picasso's work as a young artist and a café-restaurant still exists, tucked away on a lit- tion, which adds much to the place's spiritual
testimony to the special love affair that always tle street named Montsió in the Mercé neigh- value. Occasionally, the church organises organ
existed between Picasso and the city of bourhood. and classical music concerts, which fit seam-
the surface. The market had been guarding a impressive collection of paintings by artists
secret for centuries - the remains of the ancient, like Rusiñol, Casas, Mir, Nonell and Gargallo;
medieval city. When taken together, the ruins the Zoology Museum, located in the old Three
amount to what is probably the largest architec- Dragon Castle, a building designed by
tural park ever found in the urban centre of any Doménech i Montaner and the Geology
European city. The ruins still tell stories about Museum. If the Zoology Museum has your
daily life in the Middle Age and include fisher- curiosity peaked, you can stroll down to the
men dwellings, stables, a blacksmith and seve- zoo, located at the bottom end of the park. The
ral shops. This astounding and entirely unex- zoo is home to more than 8,480 animals, the
pected discovery has obviously brought the most famous of which was Copito de Nieve
library project to a halt. The grounds will (Snowflake), the world's only albino gorilla.
remain closed until a decision has been made Copito died recently, and his presence is still
on the area's future. sorely missed by both the staff and the many
visitors who come to the zoo to remember this
Behind the market, after crossing Carrer incredible animal.
Pujades, is one of Barcelona's largest and most
popular parks: the Ciutadela Park. This spa- If you exit the park through the gate at the top
cious, green area is attractive for a number of end, you can look up the entire length of the
reasons; it is home to interesting historical buil- Passeig de Lluís Companys. This wide prome-
dings, botanical species, a lake with row boats nade ends in a monumental arch, the Arc de
and a fountain with a waterfall designed by a Triomf, which served as the entrance to the
young Gaudí. People come here to practice 1888 World Fair. The arch was built by the
sports, play ping-pong, have picnics, stroll architect Josep Vilaseca y Casanovas and ador-
amidst the trees as well as participate in the ned with sculptures by the Catalan artists
many events that take place here throughout the Llimona, Reynés and Tassó.
year. However, the park's origins have little
bearing on the lush place of leisure the park is THE RAVAL
today. Only the name offers a reminder of its
past. It was once a citadel built by Felipe V The Raval is one the city's most unusual neigh-
after destroying the La Ribera neighbourhood. bourhoods, both for its colourful history and
The king wanted the largest military fortress in the astounding transformation it experienced in
Europe from which to keep a watchful eye on recent years. The Raval is a series of narrow
lessly into the peaceful and timeless atmosphe- the city below. Adding insult to injury, Felipe V streets and tiny squares bordered by the
re. built his fortress using money collected from Rambla and Avinguda Paral.lel along the sides,
the Ronda de Sant Antoni at the top and the
The square off to one side of the church, known port at the bottom. The neighbourhood still
as Fossar de les Moreres, is also of great his- straddles two worlds - the often times rough,
torical significance to the Catalan people. The decadent corners that echo its past and the
square was once the old, parish cemetery where modern, cosmopolitan areas that herald its
the neighbourhood buried the soldiers who died future. And yet, it is exactly this mixture that
in the battle against the troops led by Felipe V gives the neighbourhood its authentic character
in 1714. The neighbourhood, which like the and consistently surprising charm, and it is this
rest of the city was heavily opposed to the diversity that best tells the story of the Raval.
monarch, lived through some of its darkest and In the year 1800, the Raval was nothing more
most difficult times in this era. When Felipe V than orchards, vegetable gardens and fields.
defeated and took control of the city, he destro- The agricultural tranquillity came to an end
yed most of the neighbourhood and its surroun- with the industrial revolution of the 19th cen-
ding areas. In its place he constructed an enor-
mous fortress in order to punish those that had
rebelled against his rule.
the citizens and then kept his cannons trained
At the opposite end of the promenade is the on the city, ever ready to quench any uprising
Born Market. Built in 1876, the market is an or revolt. The fortress wasn't torn down until
excellent example of the iron architecture that the mid-19th century when the Catalan govern-
was very popular during that time. In addition ment decided to donate the lands to the city.
to its architectural interest, the market is also The park was constructed as part of the city's
the subject of a curious story. The market was preparations for the 1888 World Fair. Only a
commercially active for a long time but even- few buildings from its infamous past were pre-
tually business decreased and it fell into a state served, such as the old arsenal which is now the
of decline. The city debated its fate for a long seat of the Catalan Parliament.
time, until it was decided that the market would
be the new site for the Barcelona Provincial Art lovers and science buffs can also visit some
Library. When construction began on the pro- of the museums located inside the park, such as
ject, a surprise was suddenly revealed below the Modern Art Museum, which owns an
tury. Textile factories set up shop in the area The first area to show signs of a radical trans- doors within this creatively-charged and up-
and attracted an unprecedented and enormous formation was the northernmost section, clo- and-coming area. As is to be expected, the
wave of immigration. The area didn't have time sest to Plaça Universitat. An old charitable ins- environment also lured many designer shops,
to catch up with the sudden population explo- titution, the Casa de la Caritat, was redesigned trendy restaurants and chic bars into the area.
sion, which resulted in poorly and rapidly cons- as the Centre de Cultura Contemporània de
tructed housing and a dangerous lack of sani- Catalunya (Centre for Contemporary Culture The Raval is still true to two of its traditional
tary conditions. Consequently, the neighbour- or CCCB). The centre, located on Montalegre traits: it is still the city's most densely popula-
hood fell victim to frequent and devastating 5, is one of the city's most active and cutting- ted area, and it still has largest percentage of
epidemics. The Raval no longer bore any edge cultural centres, organising a wide variety the city's immigrant population. Whereas
resemblance to its bucolic origins. Instead it of exhibitions, concerts, conferences, lectures immigrants once arrived from other regions in
had become a run-down, crime-ridden ghetto and all kinds of urban activities and program- Spain, they now come from all over the world,
that people feared to cross - a reputation that mes. especially Pakistan, the Philippines and
earned it the nickname "Chinatown" (Barrio Morocco. However, the perception of this has
Chino) for its similarity to the then infamous Right around the corner, facing the Plaça dels changed over the years - what was once seen as
Chinatown in San Francisco. Àngels, is the Museum of Contemporary Art a problem of coexistence is now considered a
of Barcelona or MACBA. The modern buil- multicultural challenge. The cultural diversity
The neighbourhood was devastated by drugs, ding, defined by clean, minimalist lines, was has added much to the new Raval's identity and
prostitution and poverty, and the Raval's tragic designed by North-American architect Richard has amplified its commercial possibilities. You
state seemed destined to continue forever. Meier. The programme inside the museum is as can now find restaurants serving every imagi-
Then, in the late 1980s, the Raval's fate sud- exciting and innovative as its exterior and con- nable cuisine and shops specialising in impor-
denly took a turn in a different direction. sists of temporary exhibitions and parallel-run- ted goods. And the blending of cultures has
Barcelona was to be an Olympic city, and the ning activities such as conferences, lectures, given rise to a very innovative and new trend in
long-forgotten Raval emerged from oblivion. It presentations and discussions related to the the restaurant business - places that have inven-
received a massive make-over: new housing, avant-garde movements of the last century. The ted their very own, eclectic take on internatio-
better social services and a deep-reaching effort MACBA's youthful and modern character has nal cooking. The fusion of all these elements
to eradicate the area's drug-dealing strong- turned the Plaça dels Àngels into a popular has taken the Raval out of its past and turned
holds. Of course a few problem pockets remai- gathering spot for the city's younger genera- the former red-light district and poverty-ridden
ned, but most of the Raval began turning its tions (including many skaters who make good ghetto into perhaps the most unconventionally
long, unfortunate history around. use of the square's design). Art galleries have chic area in Barcelona.
eagerly paid exorbitant rents to open their
Museu Picasso
Montcada, 15-23
Tel. +34 93 319 63 10
www.museupicasso.bcn.es
Timetable: Tuesday-Saturday and holidays, 10am-8pm. Sundays from 10am-3pm. Closed on Mondays.
Tickets: Permanent Exhibition: 5 €. Temporary Exhibitions: 5 €. Both exhibitions: 8 €. Free admission every first Sunday of the month.
Underground: Jaume I (L4)
The Gothic Quarter is Barcelona's oldest area, The modern design of Busquets' building is stairway. The avenue, which more closely
built upon the remains of the ancient Roman contrasted by the ancient Roman wall, which resembles a square, attracts a variety of diffe-
city known as Colonia Iulia Augusta Paterna once measured more than 1,000 metres in rent people - human statues, musicians, tango
Faventia. The Roman city, founded in the 1st length. The remnants of the wall now form part dancers, tourists and locals. The area is one of
century B.C., had its centre on the Mount of the Palacio Episcopal, which has a gallery the best places from which to photograph the
Tàber, a hill that is now covered by the area with an interesting Romanesque collection. cathedral complex since it opens up onto a
around Plaça Sant Jaume and Plaça dels Next to the palace is the Portal del Bisbe, which panoramic view that includes all of the buil-
Traginers in the heart of the Gothic Quarter. was once the old Porta Praetoria - one of the dings. The pedestrian avenue is often the site of
The area's importance cannot be overstated - entrances to the ancient Roman city. During the religious celebrations and national festivities,
this is a place where the city's past and present Roman era, the city had three, monumental such as groups dancing the sardana, a traditio-
collide, where history meets innovation. In portals, but only one remains today. This parti- nal Catalan dance, and a variety of concerts.
short, it is the heart of the city and an explora- cular portal was the entrance used by pedes- The Pia Almoina, one of the most interesting
tion of this historical district is absolutely trians. There is another structure left over from buildings, is attached to the Roman wall and off
essential for anyone visiting Barcelona. this ancient time - the defence tower that once to one side of the cathedral. The building is the
protected the portal. seat of the Museum of the Barcelona Diocese,
Every narrow street and square seems to guard a museum which includes one of the best
a secret, wrapped in centuries of history. You A peculiar series of letters stand in front of the collections of religious art in Spain. The collec-
can feel the traces left by time hanging in the portal, sculpted out of bronze and aluminium.
air, whispering their stories through the ancient The letters spell the word "Barcino" and serve
walls. A good place to start exploring these sto- as another reminder of how closely past and
ries is the Plaça Nova, located very close to the present coincide in this area. The visual poem
cathedral. Since its original construction in is a piece by Joan Brossa, a Catalan poet and
1358, the square has undergone many renova- playwright who long spearheaded avant-garde
tions, the latest taking place as recently as the art in the city. If your curiosity is peaked by this
late 20th century. The square is rich in con- odd poem, then you might enjoy a closer look
trasts: ancient times facing modernity. The lat- at the artist's work. The Espai Brossa (Allada
ter is best expressed in the building housing the Vermell, 8), located in La Ribera, is a centre
Colegio de Arquitectos, located at one end of entirely dedicated to Brossa's work and the
the square. The building was designed by the world of alternative theatre.
architect Xavier Busquets, and one of the most
eye-catching details is the large-scale engra- The Avenida Catedral connects the Plaça Nova
ving by Norwegian artist Carl Nesjar, based on and the cathedral and consists of a wide, open,
a design by Picasso. public space leading up to the cathedral's ample
tion includes pieces from as early as the Middle series of steps were built to provide another and called the Casa de l'Ardiaca. If you are see-
Ages through to modern day, belonging to a more impressive manner of entering the cathe- king a place to take a refreshing break then
variety of genres such as painting, sculpture, dral. look no further - inside the house is a cool
gold and silver articles, clothing, ceramics and patio, which is a popular place amongst locals
numismatics. Two of the most emblematic pie- The Cathedral of Barcelona is an excellent for reading, resting or simply spending time in
ces are an altarpiece featuring Saint John the example of Gothic architecture and has more a quiet and peaceful space. During the Corpus
Baptist by Bernat Martorell and a silver mons- than a few surprises in store for visitors who era, the patio was also the site of a rather stran-
trance from the Santa Maria del Pi Church. venture inside. One of the most frequently visi- ge "celebration" - the l'Oucomballa. This is a
ted areas is the cloister, a peaceful and quiet very peculiar custom with origins so far in the
As you head up the narrow steps next to the place. You might be a little surprised to find past that no one really knows how it started.
museum that lead up to the cathedral, you reach thirteen geese living in this secluded spot. They The custom consists of placing an egg onto the
the Pla de la Seu, the square immediately out- are the cloister's permanent tenants and the fact fountain's water spout. The movement of the
side the cathedral's entrance. This square dates that they number exactly thirteen is no coinci- water makes the egg move as if it were dan-
back to the year 1421 and was built next to the dence. The number thirteen represents the age cing, which gives this custom its name (l'ou-
Roman city wall. A short time later, the immen- at which Saint Eulalia, the city's first patron comballa can be roughly translated as "dancing
s e saint, died a martyr.
Conjunto monumental de la Plaça del Rei (Plaça del Rei Monument Complex)
Plaça del Rei, s/n
Tel. +34 93 315 1111
Timetable: Tuesday-Saturday, 10am-2pm and 4pm-8pm. Sundays and holidays, 10am-3pm. Closed on Mondays.
Tickets: 4 € general admission. 5 € temporary exhibitions. Free admission every first Saturday of the month in the afternoon.
www.museuhistoria.bcn.es
1 Columnes Romanes (Ajuntament de Barcelona -
2 Palau Episcopal Generalitat de Catalunya)
3 Poema Barcino 7 Saló del Tinell
4 Casa de l’Ardiaca 8 Sinagoga Mayor de Barcelona
5 Plaça de Sant Felip Neri 9 Esglesia de Sant Jaume
6 Plaça de Sant Jaume 10 Barri del Call Jueu
Route 08
The park has become a very popular place for Collserola Tower Observation Deck
outdoor sports such as hiking, cycling and Ctra de Vallvidrera al Tibidabo, s/n
horse-back riding. Despite offering such a Tel. 934 069 354
variety of different leisure activities, the park
has managed to conserve its natural landscape,
made up mostly of different varieties of oak. TIBIDABO MOUNTAIN AND THE COS- Tel. 932 117 942
MOCAIXA MUSEUM www.tibidabo.es
The Tibidabo Mountain is the highest point in
the Collserola Park and one of the city's The area also holds a treat for history buffs and
symbols for a number of reasons. The mountain poetry lovers. The Museu-Casa Verdaguer is
owes much fame to the homologous church located in the small Vallvidrera enclave, inside
located at the very top. Another landmark is the a typically Catalan, 19th century country esta-
amusement park, built in 1899, which makes it te, which was where the poet Jacint Verdaguer
the oldest of its kind in Spain and the second spent the last days of his life. Verdaguer was
oldest in Europe. Thanks to its historical longe- one of the leading voices of the so-called
vity, the park has managed to maintain several Catalan Renaissance, and a visit to the museum
of its classic and popular attractions in addition allows you not only a glimpse into the work of
to acquiring many of the latest innovations. this poet but also into the way of life during
One of the most unusual and original attrac- that time. The museum is divided into two sec-
tions is a plane, an exact replica of the one that tions: one displays furniture and artefacts from
did the first ever flight between Madrid and that period in time, the other focuses on
Barcelona in 1928, which gives you a bird's eye Verdaguer's life and literary achievements.
view of the city without ever leaving the park.
The park also includes a curious museum, the Museu Casa Verdaguer
The forested area is also home to many animals Museo de Autómatas del Tibidabo. Located Vil.la Joana (Vallvidrera)
including reptiles, mammals, fish, a wide inside an old theatre built in 1909, the museum Tel. +34 93 294 78 05
variety of birds and a few wild boar that have is dedicated entirely to the art of mechanical www.museuhistoria.bcn.es
surprised more than one park visitor. toys. The collection includes a wide variety of Timetable: Saturdays, Sundays and holidays,
old dolls that worked by inserting a coin and 10am-2pm
In addition to its rich, natural environment, the once were a mainstay at European fairgrounds. Free admission.
park also has a few, important architectural The museum is home to one of the most com- FGC stop: Baixador de Vallvidrera
landmarks within its perimeter. One of the most plete collections in this specialised field and is
noteworthy is the Collserola Tower, designed well known for the excellent preservation and A new and fascinating addition to the Tibidabo
by the architect Norman Foster. Measuring 288 diversity of its mechanical toys. hillside is the CosmoCaixa or Science
metres in height (not including the 70 metres Museum, an entire museum dedicated to stimu-
that separate the tower from the ground), the Tibidabo Amusement Park lating and expanding the visitor's scientific
tower is the tallest building in the city. The Plaça del Tibidabo, 3-4 knowledge. The museum takes up an area mea-
tower is another part of the Olympic legacy and
was built in order to improve Catalonia's tele-
communication's system - and in doing so gave
the city a whole new skyline.
A walkCatalunya
A walk from Plaça from Plaça Catalunya through the
Mercè neighbourhood
through the Mercè neighbourhood
Standing in the middle of Plaça Catalunya sense of bustling energy is complemented by the left of the avenue. Heading down this
places you at the true centre of Barcelona. The street musicians, usually African or Peruvian, narrow street, you come to the mythical café-
square is the border between the new Barcelona performing spontaneous concerts. The music restaurant Els Quatre Gats. This is where a
to the north and the old city to the south and often draws a crowd and adds a cheerful, rela- famous circle of artists, including Picasso,
serves as the point of departure for important xed touch to a square that could otherwise seem Gaudí, Rusiñol and Casas, met on a regular
streets like the Passeig de Gràcia, the Rambla a tad business-like and anonymous. basis throughout the early days of the moder-
Catalunya and the Rambla. This is also one of nist movement. You can still feel much of the
the central stations for most underground lines, Before leaving Plaça Catalunya, you should bohemian, intellectual spirit lingering in the air,
buses, trains, taxis and the airport bus - basi- definitely stop in at one of the city's legendary and along with an illustrious history, the restau-
cally, this is the square where the entire city café terraces: Café Zurich. Finding a table out- rant also serves excellent Catalan cuisine.
comes together, the square that connects all of side is often quite a challenge, especially in the
the different sections and the place that serves summer, but it is worth the wait. Once seated, You can make a detour down Carrer Santa
as the best point of orientation for anyone new you can enjoy a cup of coffee and simply watch Anna on your right to the Plaça Vila de
to the city. the city pass by in front of you. Observing the Madrid. The square now covers an area once
coming and going of people is the best possible occupied by a convent of the Carmelite order
Everyone living in the city has crossed this way of getting a feel for the city's rhythm and that was burned in 1936, at the outset of the
square an uncountable number of times. the diversity that characterises its population. Spanish Civil War. The centre of the square
However, it isn't really appreciated as a public consists of a grassy area with trees and a deck
space by the majority of locals. It is considered After getting a taste of what the city is all from which you can look into the earth below.
more of a necessity, and locals tend to come about, it is time to delve into a more in depth An ancient Roman cemetery was found a few
here for practical purposes such as business, exploration. A good place to start is the Portal metres beneath the surface. The earth was clea-
shopping or as part of their commute. The de l'Àngel. According to legend, the street red away from the pit and an observation deck
square is decorated with 28 sculptures of which received its heavenly name because this was was built above it so that visitors can look at
one is particularly eye-catching. This sculpture where an angel appeared to Saint Vicent Ferrer. the ancient graves from above. Along one side
consists of an enormous book set on top of a Nowadays, the only thing resembling a miracle of the square is the Ateneu Barcelonés, a cultu-
base resembling an inverted staircase and is reaching the end of the street without having ral centre with an excellent café and restaurant.
honours Francesc Macià, one of the presidents several shopping bags hanging from your arm!
of the Generalitat of Catalunya (the region's This is the heart of Barcelona's shopping dis- Once you return from your detour and are back
autonomous government). The square is also trict, a long, pedestrian zone lined with stores on Portal de l'Àngel, keep an eye out for one of
adorned with fountains and several trees, which selling every imaginable piece of clothing and the area's most peculiar elements. The fountain
offer visitors a cool and refreshing refuge in the accessory. However, don't let all the bright located on the corner of Portal de l'Àngel and
summer. The square is surrounded by office colours and attractive display windows distract Portaferrissa (another shopping street) might
buildings, banks and shopping centres. The you from some very interesting, historical look like a fountain, but it was something quite
atmosphere is always alive and full of people: details that can also be found here. different in the past. This was one of the city's
tourists arriving in the city, people passing ancient water troughs, and if you imagine your-
through, children feeding the pigeons. This A little street named Montsió branches off to self back in the days of horses and carriages,
you will realise that these were once as impor- Much like the Raval and the Born, this area is Sunday mornings the square takes on a comple-
tant as petrol stations are today. Heading down also full of designer and craftwork shops tely different appearance. Stalls line the spa-
Portaferrissa you come across more shops, selling unique and delightful items. The streets cious, open area, and the city's stamp and coin
catering to every imaginable clientele, from Ferran and Avinyó are the best places to brow- collectors gather to sell, buy and exchange their
children and teenagers all the way to fashiona- se for gifts and indulge in some shopping. wares. If you share their enthusiasm, you
ble senior citizens. Scattered amongst the sto- Check out La Manual Alpargatera (Avinyó, 5) should definitely head down to the market.
res are a few, old palaces that have long since for shoes, Dom (Avinyó, 7) for designer pieces Although many of the items might be of little
lost their original purpose. One of these is the and Loft Avignon (Avinyó, 22) for some truly value, you can always find a good deal if you
Palau Palmerola, located at number 7, which original, avant-garde fashion. take the time to look closely. Another interes-
now houses the El Bulli workshop. This is ting detail in the Plaça Reial is a sculptural
where Ferran Adrià, the internationally famous By now you are already on your way towards piece entitled The Three Graces. The piece con-
culinary genius, experiments with ingredients the Rambla. But before reaching the famous sists of two streetlamps, with six arms each,
and textures to come up with new creations to promenade, you will cross one of the most and its artistic value is far greater than you
serve at his restaurant, El Bulli, in Roses beloved squares in the city - the Plaça Reial. would imagine at first glance. These stree-
(Girona). The square has an elegant design, surrounded tlamps are one of Gaudí's first pieces. He desig-
on all sides by Napoleonic arches. However, ned them for the city at a time when he could
If you want to escape the shopping madness years of commercialisation have taken away only dream of the immense, future fame that
that usually reigns on Portaferrissa, turn down much of its charm, and the square is now awaited him.
the little street Petritxol, which leads you to mostly frequented by tourists and the homeless.
one of the neighbourhood's most charming and After nightfall, the square turns into one of the If you make a U-turn and head back into the
"sweetest" spots. This chocolate shop is the liveliest and busiest spots in the city. Glaciar is neighbourhood away from the Rambla, you
perfect place to stop for a traditional merienda a popular place to meet for the evening's first reach the Plaça de la Mercè, the patron saint of
(afternoon snack) with an assortment of sweets, drink. It might be crowded, but it is well worth Barcelona. If you want to see what a Barcelona
buns, Swiss hot chocolate and a seemingly infi- the visit. After Glaciar you can continue your wedding is like, then you have come to the
nite variety of pastry. The street is also famous night on the town at a variety of classic bars right place. At one end of the square is the cour-
for its many art galleries, antique stores and located in the area. Other interesting establis- thouse, where civil marriages are performed.
bookshops selling extremely rare and hard to hments around the square are Sidecar, Tarantos And at the other end of the square is the Mercè
find editions. and Jamboree, venues known for pop-rock Basilica, where couples get married in traditio-
music, flamenco and jazz respectively. nal Catholic ceremonies.
This bohemian atmosphere carries through to
the Plaça del Pi, located at the end of Carrer The Mercè Church bears the name of
Petritxol. This is one of Barcelona's smallest Barcelona's patron saint, the Mercè Virgin, and
and most charming squares, named after the was built in the second half of the 18th century
hundred-year-old pine tree standing at its cen- by Josep Mas i d'Ordal. Beneath the current
tre. The church along one side of the square church lie the foundations of a much older
bears the same name and dates back to the 15th church that once formed part of a convent. The
century. A square similar in design and atmos- most important day for this church is
phere opens up just around the corner. This September 24th, the city's biggest holiday and
square, named Sant Josep Oriol, is a popular the celebration of Barcelona's patron saint.
site for street musicians and performers, fortu- However, there are also other significant
ne-tellers and painters. These two little squares moments that put this church in the spotlight.
are therefore an enormous draw for tourists, One such occasion, for example, is when the
which make them equally attractive to pick- Barça team comes to the church to express gra-
pockets. Just be a little careful with your belon- titude for one of their triumphs. And since the
gings, and you won't have any unfortunate sur- players come accompanied by other club mem-
prises mar your enjoyment of the wonderful bers, team members, fans and family, this event
café terraces and the vibrantly, artistic environ- definitely brings a lot of people to the church.
ment that characterise these lovely squares.
Surrounding Areas
Surrounding Areas
Catalonia as a whole and Barcelona in particu- fought for the rights that the citizens had lost The summer might be the best time to enjoy the
lar are characterised by a classic Mediterranean under the dictatorship. famous Sitges beaches, but the rest of the year
landscape, marked by both coastal and moun- is equally full of events and attractions.
tainous areas. In addition to all the cultural Montserrat is also a place of grand and impres- February brings with it one of the most famous
attractions Barcelona offers as a city, the sive natural beauty. If you are a lover of outdo- Carnival celebrations in all of Spain, complete
surrounding areas are perfect destinations for a or sports, particularly hiking and rock clim- with costume parties and street parades. In late
variety of excursions that allow insight into bing, then this is a definite must on your holi- September film buffs flock to Sitges for the
Catalonia's natural environment and cultural day itinerary. The mountain has more than a annual Festival Internacional de Cine
traditions. We will take a look at three absolu- thousand peaks comprised of different Fantástico (International Festival of Fantasy
tely essential destinations that are equally fasci- monoliths as well as a thoroughly unusual Film), an event that gains in international repu-
nating in both summer and winter. Some of landscape made up of rises and inclines, can- tation every year. Sitges is also a popular spot
these excursions are day trips to places such as yons and valleys which are connected by a at the weekend, famous throughout Catalonia
Montserrat or Sitges. The Costa Brava, on the series of well-marked trails. Amongst the many for its nightlife, especially amongst the gay
other hand, should be given more time as this routes you can take, the most interesting is the scene. The town also has three museums that
charming and popular destination is rather vast trail leading up to the Sant Jeroni peak, the house an interesting modernist collection.
and includes many point of interest. mountain's highest point. Here you can admire Sitges is a small town with the cultural and lei-
some truly spectacular, panoramic views onto sure options of a cosmopolitan community,
MONTSERRAT the surrounding areas below. situated along one of the loveliest stretches of
The chances of finding a Catalan who has Catalan coastline.
never stepped foot onto Montserrat would be Montserrat was declared a nature reserve in
more than strange and unusual. The unmistaka- 1989. The mountain is easily reached from The Cau Ferrat Museum, located behind the
ble mountain with its mysterious, serrated ridge Barcelona by car, train or bus. However, one of church, has an interesting permanent collection
is considered a unique geological formation the most rewarding, albeit physically deman- that includes pieces by Santiago Rusiñol,
and is one of Catalonia's most interesting natu- ding, ways of getting to Montserrat is a traditio- Ramon Casas and Pablo Picasso. Furthermore,
ral sites. In addition to its natural beauty, nal night hike during which people, driven by the museum also has a section dedicated to
Montserrat is also a landmark for another rea- athletic dedication or religious devotion, walk medieval ceramics and traditional Catalan
son - the Montserrat Abbey is home to the the 60 kilometres separating the mountain from wrought-iron. A truly special treat are the two
Virgin of the same name, also known as La Barcelona. pieces by the great artist El Greco. The
Moreneta for her ebony skin colour. She is the MariCel Museum is just around the corner
patron saint of Catalonia and a symbol that ins- Montserrat Tourism Office and houses several excellent pieces of
pires immense devotion. Hundreds of Catalans, Pl. de la Creu, s/n Romanesque and Gothic sculpture as well as a
both believers and non-believers, are drawn to Tel: 93 877 77 77 (ext. 7586) hall painted by Joseph Maria Sert and a few
this holy relic on a regular basis. The weekends paintings by Sorolla. The Maricel is actually
are an especially popular time for locals to visit SITGES comprised of several beautifully designed buil-
the abbey and pay tribute to their patron saint. Sitges is one of the most charming seaside dings, joined by a patio decorated entirely with
towns along the Barcelona coast. Nestled into Mexican-style glazed tiles. The third museum,
During the era of the Franco dictatorship, the slope of the Garraf mountain range, this the Romantic Museum, is located inside a
Montserrat also became a symbol for those pretty, little enclave has become a very popular spectacular 18th century mansion. Here you
defending Catalonia's freedom. The monks tourist destination. Due to its proximity to can visit a perfectly preserved and highly
resolutely defied the anti-Catalan laws establis- Barcelona and excellent transport connections, valuable art collection as well as the mansion's
hed by Franco's government and continued to Sitges is an easy day trip, but if you want to get old bodega (wine cellar).
celebrate weddings, baptisms and mass in their a true feeling for what the town and its popula-
forbidden native tongue. The mountain also tion is like, opt to stay a few days longer. Sitges faces four kilometres of gorgeous bea-
served as a refuge for many intellectuals who ches, bordered by one of the most pleasant
boardwalks to be found along the Catalan coas- one of the most famous seaside towns along the Reserve near Tarragona. The Parc Natural dels
tline. When organising your trip, try to keep the coast. July brings a series of famous maritime Aiguamolls de l'Empordà is a fascinating series
lunch hour free so that you can stop in at one of parades to the town, something that has already of wetlands that are home to several different
the restaurants along the boardwalk which are turned into one of the biggest tourist draws in species of migrating birds. The nearby area of
known for their delicious rice dishes. the summer. Empuriabrava is an enticing spot for anyone
interested in outdoor activities. You can try
COSTA BRAVA After passing Palafrugell, a village located your hand at sailing on the artificial canals or
The Costa Brava stretches from the southern inland, you reach Calella de Palafrugell, check out the marina. And if you have nerves of
edge of the Girona province all the way to the Llafranc and Tamariu. These are three villa- steel, you can opt for a skydiving adventure at
French border. This beautiful coastal section is ges that once formed the heart of the area's fis- the local aerodrome.
one of the main tourist attractions in Catalonia. hing industry, which still maintain much of
In the summer the area's population triples in their quaint charm despite the growing infras- The region's capital is Figueres, the city where
number, not only due to visiting tourists but tructure demanded by the increase of tourism in Salvador Dalí was born and died. You should
also because the Costa Brava is a popular sum- the area. All three villages are extremely popu- not miss out on a visit to the fantastic theatre-
mer home for many Catalans. In addition to the lar summer destinations and usually attract a museum dedicated entirely to the work of the
crowded, leisure spots along the coast, the large number of people who come here to ingenious master of surrealism. The town of
Costa Brava still maintains isolated, untouched spend the season. Many consider Begur to be Peralada, further to the north, is famous for its
beaches, medieval towns and spectacular something quite extraordinary, a place that magnificent castle, which now houses a casino
masias (country estates). Describing the entire offers a contrast to many of the touristy towns and organises wonderful music festivals during
Costa Brava and its many villages, beaches and that line the coast. The castle overlooking the the summer season. Roses is another popular
vast cultural heritage in detail would demand a town is still largely intact and hidden coves tourist destination along the coast and site of
complete guide book in itself. Therefore, we such as Sa Tuna and Aiguablava are some of the remnants of a 16th century fortress and
have decided to mention just a few of its main the few untouched and pristine beaches left on excavations dating back to the ancient Greek
towns according to where they are located as the Costa Brava. city of Rhode. Cala Montjoi, one of the beaches
you head northward along the coast. belonging to the town of Roses, is home to El
The village of Pals is another must-see stop on Bulli, culinary stronghold of world-renowned
Blanes is the closest town to Barcelona. Here your coastal itinerary. It is considered a histori- chef Ferran Adrià. However, don't even consi-
you can find one of the longest beaches in the cal monument and many original structures der stopping in for a meal without having made
Girona province and the Mar i Murtra botanical remain. The rest of the architecture has been a reservation. El Bulli is only open in the eve-
garden. The latter is one of the most important perfectly restored, and the village takes on a nings from May to October and eager guests
in Europe and is home to more than 7,000 plant special beauty at dusk when the streets are illu- often have to wait for more than a year to dine
species. Lloret de Mar is the Costa Brava's minated with torches, recalling the ambiance of at one of the coveted tables!
epicentre in terms of tourism. Although the long gone eras. Heading inland, you find other
town has some historical sites, such as a Roman interesting spots such as La Bisbal Cadaqués, a quaint town with whitewashed
tower, remnants of a castle and pretty chapels, d'Empordà, famous for its ceramics produc- buildings that draws a large share of visitors
it derives its greatest fame from the popularity tion, and Ullastret, a town where you can visit each year, is only a few kilometres away.
of its nightlife with young party-goers. It is a a well-preserved ancient, Iberian settlement. Although it has been rather overrun with tou-
place where the festivities last long into the rists and thus has lost much of its original
night and most revellers don't go to bed until Making a u-turn back towards the coast, you charm, it is almost impossible to resist visiting
dawn. Tossa de Mar is one of the most unique get to L'Estartit, famous for its beaches, which this little fishing village turned enclave for wri-
spots along the Costa Brava. In terms of histo- form part of the nature reserve Illes Medes, a ters and artists. In the centre of the nearby Port
rical interest, it has an ancient city wall and a paradise for all underwater adventurers. Upon Lligat, you can visit the house that was home
museum, called the Vila Vella, which houses a entering the Alt Empordà region, you should to Salvador Dalí and his wife Gala for much of
very interesting art collection. The village's definitely stop at the ancient Empúries terri- their life. Starting out at the little village of
other claim to fame is that it was home to tory, site of a Greco-roman settlement, which Port de la Selva, it is only a few kilometres to
actress Ava Gardner while shooting one of her has been perfectly preserved at its seafront the Sant Pere de Rodes monastery, a fascinating
films and backdrop for her torrid romance with location. Although the majority of the original medieval complex that dates back to the 10th
bullfighter Mario Cabré. The romance came to pieces found at the site are now displayed at the century. You will be surprised at the incredibly
an end when Ava's then-husband, Frank Barcelona Archaeological Museum, you can well-maintained condition of this historical
Sinatra, travelled all the way to Tossa to break still visit the remnants of the ancient city wall, building. The church inside the abbey is consi-
up the affair and take the diva back home. a well, the agora and the forum at the actual dered one of most outstanding examples of
location. Romanesque art in all of Spain. As you appro-
Heading further up north you encounter the ach the French border, you encounter the towns
village Sant Feliu de Guíxols, site of a very As you reach the Roses bay, you find yourself Llançà, Colera and Portbou, three seaside
interesting monastery; Platja d'Aro, one of the in one of the most interesting nature reserves in towns that mark the end of the Catalan coastli-
most popular beaches in the area and Palamós, Catalonia, as interesting as the Delta de l'Ebre ne.
PRACTICAL
PRACTICALGUIDE
GUIDEBOOK
BOOK
© TakeoffGuides 2005 1
ses buildings such as the Casa Batlló, Casa ages of 4 and 12) you can change routes as As is the case in all large cities, taking the car
Milà and the Palau Robert, bus number 14 often as you like and take as many buses as you out for a spin around the tourist attractions is
starts out at the Vila Olímpica and ends in wish. Tickets can be purchased at any tourist not a good idea. The streets might strike you as
Bonanova, one of the city's most elegant neigh- information office (Tel. +34 932 853 832) or wide and well indicated, particularly in areas
bourhoods, bus number 40 ends its trajectory in when boarding the bus. like the Eixample, but traffic jams are the norm,
Port Vell and bus number 41 runs down the especially when people commute to and from
entire length of Avenida Diagonal, from Plaça Tram work (around 8 am and 7 pm). Then there are
Francesc Macià at one end to the Forum The tram has a long-lasting, historical tradition neighbourhoods like Gràcia, which are nearly
grounds at the other. in Barcelona, much like it does in many other impossible to navigate by car (the small and
European cities (Barcelona has some infamous narrow streets are a challenge for anyone unfa-
Taxi and tragic stories relating to this mode of trans- miliar with them). And then there is the subject
Barcelona taxis are yellow and black, and a port - Gaudí died after being hit by a tram). of parking ... Its better to not even try finding a
small, green light on the roof indicates whether During the second half of the 20th century, parking spot in the city centre. Snagging a
they are free or not. Generally speaking, taxi local authorities decided that the tram was an place in a parking garage during certain hours
drivers try to take the shortest route possible to antiquated and uncomfortable form of transport of the day is an almost equally daunting task.
complete a trip. Of course you can run into and removed the tracks.
situations, as happens in all major metropolitan However, times have changed and with them However, when it comes to making trips
areas, were a taxi driver takes advantage of the the perception of the tram. Studies have shown around the city's surroundings the car is a defi-
fact that you are "new" in the city and tries to that it is a safe, fast and efficient form of trans- nite plus. The city is encircled by two motor-
overcharge you - however, this is actually quite port, which offers greater mobility to people way belts called Rondas (the Ronda Litoral
unusual in Barcelona. with a physical handicap since trams can be runs along the coast and the Ronda del Dalt
boarded at street level. Barcelona reconsidered cuts through the city's interior). The Rondas
Taxis do apply additional charges for trips to the tram only recently when it offered a possi- offer drivers and easy and quick way in and out
the airport, handling luggage and waiting for bility to connect the city with a number of areas of the city. The speed limit is set at 60 km/h, but
passengers. Taxi fares don't start out at zero; a in the outskirts such as Esplugues, Cornellà, the nature of the road seems to encourage peo-
ride always starts out from a set, base amount Sant Joan Despí and Sant Just Desvern. ple to drive faster. However, speeding viola-
of 1.60 Euros (1.80 Euros if the ride takes place Although these areas don't lie very far outside tions are heavily fined and the road is dotted
at night). The only times that it might be the city, the public transport options connecting with radar monitoring systems; therefore, for
slightly difficult to find a taxi is during a holi- them had always been poor and insufficient. both your safety and the health of your pocket-
day or in very busy nightlife areas. To find a The Forum 2004 event gave the plan a final book, we recommend that you adhere to the
ride, all you have to do is find a strategic cor- push, and the new tram lines were inaugurated indicated speed limit.
ner and flag down any taxi coming your way. that same year. Public opinion is split on the
Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat (FGC) matter. Although many people agree that the If you want to head out of the city, you should
tram has improved both the city's image as well know a few, basic things about the motorways.
These trains are similar to the underground and as its public transportation system, others con- The main coastal motorway is the A7 (also
regular trains (in fact, many of their stations sider it a flawed idea that does little more than known as the E15, its European designation).
coincide), but their routes reach other, at times interfere with traffic and cause accidents due to The A16 heads south towards Tarragona, and
somewhat more distant, destinations. Their improper traffic signals and street signs. the A19 heads north towards Girona. The enti-
main hub is the Catalunya station (right behind Whatever the case may be, the tram does offer re motorway system in Catalonia is made up of
Café Zurich at the top of the Rambla), which an alternative form of transport, especially if toll roads (known as "peaje"). They tend to be
also serves lines 1 and 3 of the underground. you are exploring the Forum area or the upper rather expensive so it is a good idea to get some
The price of the ticket depends on the length of section of Avenida Diagonal. information on your destination and how to get
the trajectory. Trajectories within the city limits there before heading out. A cheaper alternative
such as, for example, any destination between Bicycle is to take the national highways; they can be
Plaça Catalunya and Tibidabo, have the same The bicycle is an original, different, fun and more uncomfortable and less well maintained,
fare as the underground and the bus, and you ecologically conscious method of exploring the but they are free.
can use your T-10 for the trip. city. Barcelona might not be the biker's paradi-
se that Amsterdam is, but the city is well equip- OTHER PECULIAR FORMS OF
Barcelona Sightseeing Bus (Bus Turístic) ped with several bike paths around the city cen- TRANSPORT
The Bus Turístic is a special bus, designed spe- tre as well as many other areas.
cifically to meet the needs and interests of peo- Bicycles can be rented at places like Ciclobus Tramvia blau (Blue Tram)
ple visiting the city. It is a convertible, double- (+34 93 853 832), Biciclot (+34 93 307 74 75) This little tram line circulates between Plaça
decker bus with three, pre-established routes and several other similar establishments. Kennedy, on the Avenida Tibidabo, and the
that take visitors to some of the most interes- Plaça del Doctor Andreu, next to the Tibidabo
ting tourist attractions in the city. The red route By Car funicular. It is the most unique way of getting
takes you to Plaça Catalunya, Passeig de
Gràcia, the Sagrada Familia, Parc Güell, the
Pedralbes Monastery, the FC Barcelona
Football Museum, MACBA and the CCCB.
The blue route also starts on Passeig de Gràcia
but heads up to the Anilla Olímpica on
Montjuic Mountain and then back down to the
Old Port, the Olympic Port, Ciutadela Park and
the Gothic Quarter. The latest addition is the
Forum route, which covers the recently develo-
ped areas of the city and is specifically desig-
ned for the summer as it passes through the
Olympic Port, Bogatell beach, the Forum
grounds, Diagonal Mar Park and Poblenou.
With the purchase of one ticket (17 Euros for
adults and 10 Euros for children between the
© TakeoffGuides 2005 2
of transport; what it offers is simply the most
amazing way to see the city from up above. The Climate
trip starts out from the BCNSkytours heliport, Barcelona has a Mediterranean climate, mar-
located near Moll de Europa, and lasts 10 ked by a lot of sunshine. Temperatures tend to
minutes. The price tag is a tad steep, 70 Euros be mild throughout the year. Winters are not
per person, but it is definitely a one of a kind excessively cold. Although the summers are
experience. hot, the barometer rarely registers extreme tem-
peratures.
The flight begins over Port Vell (Old Port) and
the Olympic Port and then heads over to the The region experiences occasional rainfall,
Forum grounds. The helicopter swoops around usually during the spring and autumn months.
and flies further into the city, passing the Agbar However, it isn't unusual for isolated rains-
Tower and Plaça Glòries and heading up to the torms to take place during other seasons as
Sagrada Familia. Other spots that will surely well. Barcelona is a famous beach destination
delight you are the Eixample with its classic in the summer. Although Lleida and Girona are
grid-like structure, Park Güell and the Camp more famous for their winter skiing, Barcelona
Nou. Finally, the helicopter comes around and also has several attractive ski resorts.
to the amusement park situated on top of the finishes the flight over the Anella Olímpica and
mountain. It only runs when the park is open its landmarks: Palau de Sant Jordi, the Olympic Working Hours
and at the weekend. A bus covers the route on Stadium and the Calatrava Tower. The working day in most offices, banks, com-
other days but it goes without saying that it panies and other official institutions usually
possesses a lot less charm. USEFUL ADVICE begins between 8am and 9am. Lunch is usually
A one-way ticket costs 2 € and a round-trip tic- around 2pm, and many places close at midday.
ket 2.90 €. Required Documentation They open again around 4pm and close betwe-
The type of identity document you need to en 6pm and 7pm. Catalans have the reputation
Montjuic Funicular enter Barcelona and Spain depends on which for being hard workers and money conscious.
The funicular connects Parallel with the country you are coming from. Spain is one of Some meaner spirits prefer to call their money
Montjuic cable car station in less than 2 minu- the fifteen countries that signed the Schengen conscious attitude stinginess but this isn't true.
tes. The funicular leaves from the Parallel Agreement, which means that a visa isn't requi- Barcelona citizens spend and consume as much
underground station (L2 and L3) and is red to enter the country. The other countries if not more than their other Spanish counter-
amongst the most peculiar forms of transport - included under the Schengen Agreement are parts.
you almost feel like you are floating in thin air. the countries of the European Union (except Shops and other commercial venues have much
The T-10 pass for the underground and bus the United Kingdom, Ireland, Slovakia, longer, working hours. Stores open around
system is also valid for the funicular. Estonia, Hungary, Latonia, Lithuania, Malta, 10am and close for lunch around 2pm. They
Poland, the Czech Republic and Cyprus) and open for the afternoon around 4pm and don't
Transbordador aéreo (cable car) Norway and Iceland. close until 8:30pm. The shops in the city centre
This odd little ride starts at the Montjuic usually stay open during lunch, and shopping
Mountain (specifically at the Costa i Llobera Citizens of the European Union only need an centres stay open until 10pm. Timetables are
gardens), stops halfway through the trajectory official, national identity document to enter the also adjusted during sales and special shopping
at the Jaume I Tower located next to the World country. Citizens of the United Kingdom, seasons (such as Christmas). During these
Trade Centre and ends its journey at the Sant Canada, Ireland, Japan, New Zealand, periods, shops are often open Monday through
Sebastià Tower. The ride inside this cable car Switzerland, Australia, Israel and the USA may Sunday including holidays.
allows passengers to admire some of the best spend up to 90 days within the Schengen region
panoramic views onto the city. as tourists without a visa. Travellers from all Language
A one-way, adult ticket costs 7.50 €. Round-trip other countries planning to visit Spain should When you come to Barcelona or anywhere else
ticket is 9 €. consult their local Spanish consulate or in Catalonia, you will notice that street signs,
embassy to find out what documentation they street names and other information are posted
Golondrinas will need for their trip. in Catalan. You will hear the language spoken
These typical, traditional boats can take you on the street, in restaurants and more than once
from the Columbus Monument at the port to Currency people will probably address you in Catalan.
the l'Escullera area. The official, Spanish currency is the euro. Not just newspapers, magazines and books are
The trip takes about 35 minutes and is mainly Money can he changed at banks, savings banks available in Catalan, but also plays, musicals
designed for tourists or locals who are looking and currency exchange bureaus. Banks are and films are performed and screened in this
for a different way to spend their day. Most open Monday through Friday from 8:39am to language. Therefore, you might be interested in
locals have been on one of the Golondrinas at 2pm and Saturday from 8:30am to 1pm. Banks knowing a little more about this language, its
least once in their lifetime. Nowadays, catama- are closed on Saturdays during the summer. history and why it is spoken in this part of the
rans also cover the same route and although The savings banks are also open on Thursday country.
they are covered and more comfortable, they afternoons except during the summer.
cannot hold a candle to the Golondrinas' charm. Catalan is a romance language derived from
Currency exchange bureaus are located throug- Latin and the original and proper language of
Helicopters hout the main, tourist areas of the city as well Catalonia. During the 8th and 10th centuries,
It is now possible to fly across Barcelona in a as at the most important bus and train stations Catalan, along with other languages such as
helicopter. Obviously this isn't a common form like Sants Station and Barcelona Nord Station. French and Castilian that share the same ori-
© TakeoffGuides 2005 3
gins, was already a clearly defined language Due to their excellent proximity to the city's accommodation and breakfast. It's difficult to
that distinguished itself from Latin. financial centres, Passeig de Gràcia, Plaça make a general assessment about this type of
Catalunya, the upper section of Avenida establishment. Some show a glaring lack of
Barcelona was a strong influence in the langua- Diagonal and Plaça Urquinaona are the best facilities and conveniences whereas others
ge's preservation and formalisation. choices for anyone on a business trip. The last offer good, clean, simple lodging for very low
Generations of Barcelona counts ruled the year has also witnessed the opening of many prices.
region for long periods of time and cultivated new hotels, usually belonging to large, interna-
the language's development. Many judicial, tional chains and designed to accommodate Hostels in Barcelona don't really fit the des-
economic, religious and historical texts written congresses and conventions, in the area cription applied to this type of accommodation
in the language over the centuries have been surrounding the Forum grounds. These hotels in other European cities. Here a hostel is far
preserved. might not be centrally located, but they are well closer to a hotel and is also categorised accor-
connected via public transport and have facili- ding to stars. Usually, the quality of rooms in a
When Catalonia was defeated in the 1714 War ties that are equipped to meet all the needs of a two-star hostel will pleasantly surprise most
of Succession, the Catalan language suffered company event. visitors. In Barcelona, the term hostel is used to
through long periods of prohibition and repres- describe a cosy and intimate setting, and prices
sion. It wasn't until after the Franco The aforementioned hotels are perfectly appro- can be on par with those of a hotel because,
Dictatorship that the language once again enjo- priate for business trips, but Barcelona offers a more often that not, the mod cons are almost
yed freedom of expression, aided by the statu- far wider array of accommodations. For exam- identical in both.
tes of autonomy granted not only to Catalonia ple, couples might opt for more intimate, char-
but also the Balearic Islands and the Valencian ming hotels or small apartments that allow for Of course, there is still a clear distinction bet-
Community. more privacy. The latter option is also well sui- ween hostels and hotels - and the latter are
ted to the needs of friends travelling in a group equally well represented in Barcelona. In fact,
Nowadays Catalan, along with Castilian, is the or families. Apartments have more space and the list of great hotels is so long that it would be
official language of Catalonia. The language is provide the option of cooking at home - some- impossible to include all of them here.
also spoken in the Valencian Community thing that also saves you a lot of money if you Therefore, the short list that follows is designed
(although there it is known as "Valenciano"), in are planning a lengthy stay in the city. You can to reflect hotels that currently stand out from
the Balearic Islands, the French province of the find a complete and detailed listing of apart- the rest, be it because of historical importance,
eastern Pyrenees (a region that once formed ments and hotels, classified by area and cate- noteworthy design, reasonable prices or a cut-
part of Catalonia) and even in some places in gory, at www.bcninternet.com. ting-edge reputation.
Sardinia (Italy).
Another important thing to consider when boo- Two of the city's trendiest hotels at the moment
king an accommodation is how it ranks in are the Hotel Omm and the Hotel Casa Camper.
The Barcelona Card Barcelona's classification system. Specific The Hotel Omm is at the forefront of hip
Like many other European cities, Barcelona names and categories apply to the different hotels and has 5 stars to boot. Located in the
also offers a special card that provides visitors types of establishments; the following descrip- city centre, the hotel has 58 rooms, one suite
with significant discounts. Cards can be acqui- tions range from the most basic to the most and incredible views onto La Pedrera. The
red for a period of 1 to 5 days (the price varies upscale type of accommodation. Albergues facade is an immediate reminder that you are
accordingly: 17€ for a one-day card and 30€ for not in the presence of a conventional hotel. The
a five-day card). The card provides you with entire hotel has a hip designer look and feel,
free use of public transport within the city as something marked by details such as the alumi-
well as discounts and free entry to some of the nium wall that separates the room from the bath
city's museums. Please call the following num- and has a TV, safe, CD-player and mini-bar
ber for more information about this service: built into it.
+34 932 853 832.
The hotel restaurant, Moo, does an interesting,
WHERE TO STAY IN BARCELONA very modern take on Catalan cuisine. Moo's
secret ingredient is the Roca brothers, a name
Barcelona embraces diversity. It is the kind of that has gained an illustrious reputation in
city where you can find a great place to stay Catalonia's gastronomic circles. Some find the
whether you are travelling deluxe-style or on a cuisine a tad too innovative, perhaps, whereas
shoe-string. Accommodations come in all sha- others consider it one of the best and most ori-
pes and sizes, fitting just about any budget, pre- ginal restaurants they have ever dined at. One
ference and situation. thing is certain: at Moo the show and the servi-
ce almost steal the limelight away from the
In general, the area of a city says much about (youth hostels) are a good option for young tra- food. Opinions on the food may vary, but no
the type of accommodation located within its vellers, people on a tight budget or people who one will disagree with the fact that this is the
perimeter. Upscale hotels tend to be located in don't mind sharing a room with strangers. The hippest restaurant in town right now. It is the
the Eixample as well as in the Born and the majority of these establishments are located in place to be if you want to mingle with the 'in'
Raval now that the latter two have transformed the Gothic Quarter and only offer very basic crowd, and it isn't unusual to spot a minor cele-
into two of the classiest neighbourhoods in the conveniences (a bed, a roof over your head and brity or two who come here to make an appea-
city. However, these same neighbourhoods a shared bath). Their greatest advantage is their rance. If you want a glimpse of all that is
have traditionally housed the city's guesthouses low prices, but you have to be willing to sacri- currently cutting-edge and absolutely cool in
and hostels, some of which come with all fice privacy in exchange for paying very little. this city, make sure to drop in at Moo for a
necessary mod-cons and others which only meal.
offer the bare minimum. A pensión (guesthouse) is a place that rents out
rooms equipped with the most basic necessi- The Hotel Omm also has a very exclusive night
The reason for your trip will also largely deter- ties. Rooms are usually furnished with double club with one of the strictest admission policies
mine the type of accommodation that is most or single beds, some rooms have their own bath in Barcelona. Who gets in and who doesn't is
suited to your needs. If you are in Barcelona on whereas other guesthouses require guests to heavily scrutinised, but once inside you get to
business, there are several areas designed pre- share bathroom facilities. In general, these esta- see live acts performing from 11pm until dawn.
cisely to satisfy of needs of a business traveller. blishments only provide accommodation or The pool has a bar alongside it and is a luxu-
© TakeoffGuides 2005 4
rious spot to relax and enjoy a lovely view onto in terms of innovation and popularity. One only
Passeig de Gràcia, especially beautiful at night However, many people prefer moderation to needs to mention the likes of Ferran Adrià -
when it is illuminated by its famous, modernist lavish luxury. Often, the best deals lie some- culinary maestro at the El Bulli restaurant
streetlamps. It goes without saying that the where between deluxe hotels and low-end (headquartered in Roses, Girona but with a
hotel has a private parking garage for guests so guesthouses. If this is more your style, then workshop in Barcelona) - who is considered to
that all the luxury cars have an accommodation check into the Gat Raval, immersed in the cit- be one of the best chefs worldwide.
as safe and comfortable as their owners. y's historical centre, right next door to the
MACBA museum on Joaquín Costa Street. When deciding on where to eat, two important
If the topic is hip hotels, then the Hotel Casa This hotel belongs to a class known as "charter factors need to be considered - the type of res-
Camper cannot go without mention. The brand hotels" - a no frills accommodation with all taurant and price range. Most meals in
originally specialised in shoes aimed, specifi- mod-cons and a designer touch. The 24 rooms Barcelona fall into the 20 € range, but the majo-
cally, at a young and thirty-something clientele are all pristine, functional and very cool - as rity of neighbourhoods also have an abundant
that places a high premium on originality. Now demanded by its location in the Raval and the selection of both more expensive and cheaper
Camper has inaugurated its very own hotel, a type of clientele the neighbourhood attracts. restaurants. Another good option to keep in
four-star establishment located inside a 19th The most you will ever pay is 67 € a night, mind is the lunch menu - offered by most res-
century building in the Raval. The hotel has 25 which is the price of a double room with bath taurants from Monday through Friday - with
rooms and was created in collaboration with during the high season. And you get more for prices ranging from 6 € to 15 €. This type of
Fernando Amat. Amat is the brains behind the your money than just a room - the price also meal usually includes a starter, main dish and
Vinçon store - a Mecca for anyone who wors- includes internet service, free tea and coffee, dessert, as well as a drink, bread and coffee.
hips the art of design. TV in your room and a lovely view onto the However, this varies depending on the restau-
MACBA. The Gat Raval offers guests afforda- rant so make sure to ask your waiter or read the
The Casa Camper is different, original, practi- ble luxury, well below the 300 € a night char- menu's fine print before ordering.
cal and simple without being plain. It is the per- ged at the previously mentioned hotels. It goes
fect place for anyone who values natural without saying that the ambiance in each of Generally, lunch is served between 1pm and
surroundings and social commitment. Camper these hotels is radically different, each one has 3pm and dinner between 9pm and 11pm. It is
lacks pretence and places great importance on carved out a niche for itself that sets it apart customary to drink wine with meals. Catalonia,
rehabilitating old buildings rather than building from other accommodations. However, it is much like the rest of Spain, is famous for its
new ones. Its minimalist design somehow precisely this diversity that makes Barcelona a wines, a local speciality that visitors should not
manages to be modern without falling into any truly great city - it has something for everyone. miss out on. Prices vary according to the wine-
of the trendy traps in terms of decor. 's point of origin and year. For example, most
WHERE TO EAT IN BARCELONA lunchtime menus already include the wine in
Still staying in luxury mode but shifting gears, the meal's set price whereas upscale restaurants
we get to the only 5-star, deluxe Grand Hotel in Barcelona is well known for having a strong, offer a choice of wines that are often more
all of Spain - the Casa Fuster. Located at the multicultural character, something that is expensive than the meal itself. Very exclusive
end of Passeig de Gràcia, just where it merges reflected in the city's many restaurants. This restaurants have 90 € to 100 € wines on their
with the Gran de Gràcia street, the hotel takes vast culinary diversity gives you a wonderful lists, a lovely treat for a very special occasion.
up a building designed by the architect Lluís and delicious insight into the city's identity. A
Doménech i Montaner, who was also responsi- few decades ago, the art of dining didn't have Many visitors come to Barcelona looking to
ble for several other important, local, architec- quite the same cultural significance in dive into their first "tapa" experience only to be
tural wonders, such as the Palau de la Música Barcelona, or in the rest of Spain, as it does sorely disappointed. This is a traditional and
Catalana. today. This is one area in which Barcelona has popular custom in much of Spain but not in
experienced a 180 degree shift and nowadays Catalonia. However, several restaurants specia-
The hotel restaurant, Galaxó, has received heading out for a meal is one of the best ways lising in "tapas", many of which bear Basque
accolades for the outstanding quality of its cui- of getting acquainted with the rhythms and cus- names, have sprung up around the city and con-
sine. And then there is the café; one of the love- toms of city life. tributed to the rebirth of this culinary delight.
liest and historically most valuable in all of Tapas also fall into two categories - the typical
Barcelona. Once upon a time it was the Salón Barcelona is a gourmet's paradise. Although the Spanish tapa (usually involving cheese, ham
Vienés, a famous gathering spot in the early city has followed the pattern of most large and omelette) and those served at hip, designer
20th century. The roof-top terrace has a swim- cities and included fast food and takeaway restaurants. The latter usually serve tiny, culi-
ming pool and a view onto the Passeig de meals on the menu, it still maintains and cele- nary creations rather than mere tapas. The city
Grácia that stands in a league of its own. On a brates the local custom of leisurely sit-down has also become a haven for international cui-
clear day you can even see the glittering blue of meals. A new generation of chefs has contribu- sine. In addition to stalwarts such as Italian,
the Mediterranean beyond the buildings. And at ted much to keeping this tradition alive as well Greek, Japanese and French fare, immigration
night the show up here is absolutely priceless. as raising Catalan cuisine to new heights, both has given rise to several new Chinese, Indian,
© TakeoffGuides 2005 5
Pakistani, Egyptian etc. restaurants that open Pakistani restaurant to open in Barcelona and named "Volcán de Chocolate" (chocolate vol-
up a whole new world of flavours. still ranks amongst the best. Finding it is easy - cano).
simply follow the irresistible smell of curry that
Meals tend to be long, drawn-out affairs, espe- wafts out of the restaurant and fills the street. If you are seeking something modern and hip,
cially in the evenings. Dessert is traditionally The restaurant eschews the regional flavour check out the Living (Capellans, 9), a restau-
followed by coffee - typically a shot of espres- that characterises many restaurants of its kind rant that could just as easily be in New York
so or a "cortado" (coffee with a little dash of and instead opts to serve specialities from and serves food at any hour of the day, Juicy
milk). Others prefer to close the dining expe- every corner of the country such as nan Jones (Cardenal Casañas, 7), a vegan restaurant
rience with an herbal tea. Unlike many other (Pakistani flatbread straight from the oven), with a great variety of international dishes and
European cities, Barcelona is smoker friendly tandoori chicken, samosas and other typical, a very funky atmosphere or Pla (Bellafila, 11),
and most restaurants, with the exception of a filled pastries. The restaurant is also one of the an exponent of very creative and international
few vegetarian places or places with signs indi- few places to enjoy a refreshing Cobra Beer, an cooking that is also an ideal spot for a romantic
cating the contrary, permit smoking. As far as Indian classic that is hard to come by. The res- meal. Less adventurous souls can always rely
tipping is concerned, it is greatly appreciated taurant's reasonable prices suit every kind of on a classic pizzeria of which there are many in
since the final price doesn't include a gratuity. budget and range from approximately 6 € to 10 Barcelona. La Verónica (Avinyó, 30) is still one
The amount of the tip is entirely up to you and €. of the city's most innovative pizzerias, despite
how you feel about the quality of the food and having been in business for many years. And if
the service received. Other international restaurants in the area you are in a hurry and just want to pop in some-
include Govinda (Plaça Vila de Madrid, 4-5), where for a quick bite, there is no better place
Having answered these simple questions, the one of the most celebrated Indian restaurants in than the The Bagel Shop. Here you can find
next decision centres on what you're looking Barcelona (clients should note that they don't more than 45 different kinds of bagels served in
for in a meal: a mere hunger quencher or a truly serve any alcohol); the Jinnah Continental myriad styles, both sweet and savoury.
delicious dining experience. This, of course, (Ample, 46), serving both Indian and Pakistani
depends on individual preference and budget, specialities; the Oolong (Gignàs, 25), an inte- Barceloneta and Vila Olímpica
but regardless of the situation, it is always good resting fusion between Asian and American It comes as no surprise that the city's best sea-
to leave the house with a few useful tips in cuisine; Shunka (Sagristans, 5), a very good food restaurants are located next to the sea. La
hand. Japanese restaurant, which serves more than Barceloneta is the premiere destination if you
are looking for classic rice, fish and seafood
dishes. The traditional local bars might not be
impressive to the eye but when it comes down
to dining you cannot find a better, more authen-
tic place. Seafood and fish tends to be pricey so
expect to spend at least 25 € at most restau-
rants.
© TakeoffGuides 2005 6
nions such as romantic, group or business din- Friends, at Passeig del Born 27 (the enormous
ners and lunches. mural on the wall is a piece by Jordi Labanda).
If your inclinations are bohemian and intellec-
Eixample tual, then El Foro, at Princesa 53, and its inte-
This area is home to a great variety of restau- resting blend of Italo-Argentinian cuisine
rants but more often than not price exceeds might make a good choice. And if Cuban food
quality in these parts. Amongst the prestigious tickles your fancy, make your way through the
and first-class restaurants you can potentially maze of little streets to Habana Vieja, located at
encounter a few where the quality doesn't mea- Banys Vells 2. Finally, for a foray into a
sure up to the prices. You can also find just modern reinterpretation of Catalan cuisine with
about any kind of fast food here, from the typi- an exotic twist, book a table at L'Oucomballa,
cal chains such as Burger King, McDonalds located at number 20 on the same street.
and KFC to more home-grown versions such as
Pans & Company and Bocatta (sandwiches), Gràcia
Pastafiore (pizzas) or FresCo and Lactuca (all- Egyptian, Cuban, Pakistani and Moroccan are
you-can-eat vegetarian and salad bars). some of the predominant flavours here.
right around the corner from MACBA. This is Options include both carefully prepared meals
If all you are looking for is a quick bite on the a lively spot, perfect for groups, at which you and quick sandwiches at the bar. Restaurants
go, then the aforementioned restaurants will can sample a variety of salads and appetisers range in style from refined establishments to
suffice. However, if you would like to enjoy a along with some excellent wine at very reaso- taverns ideal for groups and parties. Gràcia is
good, sit-down meal, be it for business or plea- nable prices. If you are looking for a designer the kind of neighbourhood that every great city
sure, then the following options will definitely touch, it can be found at Lupino (Carme, 33), a needs - a place where you can find a restaurant
tickle your palate. Il Comendattore (Comte favourite amongst thirty-something intellec- for just about any occasion.
d'Urgell, 247) stands out amongst the city's tuals who don't mind paying a little more for a
Italian restaurants, both for the food as well as meal if it means a quiet, relaxing and sophisti- The area's main streets are Torrijos and Verdi,
the decor, which emulates a classic Italian look. cated atmosphere. Salsitas is another classic both perennially lively and vibrant. Starting
Another international option is Dionisos spot - and one of the first to put the idea of out from one of the two, it is easy to find wha-
(Comte d'Urgell, 90), one of the most famous having a space serve both as restaurant and tever restaurant you are looking for. The Café
Greek restaurants in Barcelona. club into practice. Salambó on Carrer Torrijos is one of the area's
classic spots. Located next to the Verdi cinema,
There is no shortage of traditional restaurants Another almost obligatory stop is the Casa the restaurant serves an elaborate, first-class
either such as, for example, the Mesón Cinco Leopoldo, located on Sant Rafael, 24. The dis- cuisine. Chido One, located at number 30 on
Jotas at Rambla de Catalunya, 91. As the name hes alone are worth the visit - generous por- the same street, is one of the best and most
implies, the speciality here is "jamón serrano" tions of first-class fish and seafood. But this popular Mexican restaurants. La Torreta de
(cured ham), and the owners claim that theirs restaurant offers more than simply great food - Gràcia, at Verdi 179, is located in a house with
surpasses all others in terms of quality. This is most locals consider it one of the city's land- a garden, a rare treat in the area, and serves a
difficult to prove without having tasted the marks. The restaurant was immortalised by selection of grilled meats and vegetables
competition, but one thing is certain - their Manuel Vázquez Montalbán in his detective accompanied with "pan amb tomaquet" - the
Catalan-style bruchettas (toasted bread) with novels, where it often served as a hang-out for traditional Catalan white bread covered with
tomato and ham are absolutely delicious. Their the main character, Pepe Carvalho. tomato and olive oil. Verdi offers another wide
prices are somewhat more expensive compared array of options: La Fronda, at Verdi 15, is very
to other establishments of its kind, but the The Born is probably the neighbourhood to popular with young people. Mesopotamia, at
exceptional quality more than makes up for it. have witnessed the greatest degree of change in number 65, is probably the best place in
terms of leisure and entertainment. Nowadays, Barcelona for Iraqi cuisine. And D.O., at num-
The Eixample is also a night-life favourite no one can claim to be hip unless they can men- ber 36, is a perfect little nook at which to sam-
amongst the local gay population and offers a tion at least three restaurants and three stores ple creative tapas and good wine at prices that
wide selection of bars, clubs and restaurants. located in the Born. The selection is so vast that fit everybody's budget.
The Miranda ranks amongst the most original this might seem like an easy task. However, it
in this genre, a restaurant with live performan- is easy to get overwhelmed by the quantity of Verdi might have the most restaurants per squa-
ces that later on transforms into a cocktail bar. options. Therefore, it helps to head out with a re metre in all of Barcelona, but the options in
Located on Casanova 30, the Miranda's decor few recommendations. Gràcia don't end there. Stop in at Botafumeiro
is straight out of a Pedro Almodóvar film, and (Gran de Gràcia 81), one of the city's best sea-
dinner is accompanied by spectacular drag If you want a quick bite and a chance to see a food restaurants, which also has private dining
queen shows. lot of pretty faces, pop into Sándwich & rooms that are perfect for business lunches and
special events. And special should definitely
The Born and the Raval define the occasion since prices here always
As these are the city's hippest neighbourhoods, add up to about 60 € per person.
it makes perfect sense that they are also home
to the trendiest and most chic restaurants. If you are keen on trying food from other
However, a designer look and trendy feel aren't Spanish regions and want to make sure to get
the only things these neighbourhoods have to the highest quality, the different Regional
offer. There are still classics to be found, such Houses are definitely the best option. The
as historically relevant restaurants like Los Andalusian house on Vìa Laietana doubtlessly
Toreros (Xuclà, 3-5), decorated with old photo- serves the best fried fish; La Rioja's house on
graphs depicting the art of bullfighting, or the Pintor Fortuny prepares excellent, northern-
Fonda Espanya (Sant Pau, 9-11), the dining style casseroles; rice dishes are best tried at the
room at the hotel of the same name, designed Valencia house on Carrer Córcega and for a
by the architect Lluís Doménech i Montaner. good, hearty meal head over to the Galician
centre, right on the Rambla, which specialises
If you want ambiance rather than history, make in seafood and stuffed pastries.
your way over to El Trillo (Àngels, 3), located
© TakeoffGuides 2005 7
BARCELONA AT NIGHT Here you can enjoy a few drinks and dance If you aren't the kind to seek out the hippest,
until dawn to just about any kind of music, be most fashionable spots and prefer those that
Barcelona is well-known for having a very it Spanish pop, house, techno, disco or salsa. have proven themselves over time, make sure
varied and vibrant nightlife. There is something The only thing that matters here is getting out to check out the Razzmatazz (Almogàvers,
to satisfy every preference amidst the see- onto the dance floor. 122) or Bikini (Déu i Mata, 105). Razzmatazz,
mingly endless options. Traditionally, people located close to the Poble Nou, is one of the cit-
used to head out for a night on the town Gràcia is definitely one of the most unique y's leading concert venues. The bar next door,
Thursday through Saturday. However, times areas - and one of the most diverse when it Ceferino, might already be past its prime, but it
are changing and many of the bars and clubs comes to the topic of nightlife. Some people is still a point of reference for Spanish music in
are now open every night of the week - and prefer to pass their nights traditionally, sitting the city. What is more interesting about the
usually catering to an enthusiastic clientele. in one of the many squares, on a terrace, enjo- Ceferino, however, is the fact that it was the
ying good drinks and conversation. Others look first ever bar to open in the area when it was
The city has made an active effort to provide for a livelier, louder way to spend the night and nothing more than half-forgotten factories.
public transport to late night revellers, both as a head to one of the nightclubs, such as El Sol, Others followed suit, and the area soon gained
public service and to reduce the dangers of located, appropriately enough, on Plaça del momentum. Nowadays, the Poble Nou is extre-
drunk driving. All public transport runs until Sol. Much of this nocturnal fun seems more mely popular amongst twenty-somethings. The
midnight, Sunday through Thursday, and until like a curse to people living in the area, and Bikini isn't particularly noteworthy in terms of
2am on Fridays and Saturdays. The first, regu- Gràcia has seen many neighbourhood protests ambiance, but it has years of tradition under its
lar schedule trains and buses start at 5am, against the levels of night time noise. However, belt. Many of the most important and relevant
Monday through Friday, and at 6am on if people out and about show the residents concerts are held here during the week and
Saturdays, Sundays and holidays. Night buses some respect there is no reason why one perso- from Thursday through Sunday it is also a
fill the empty hours and cover many of the n's nocturnal fun should interfere with anothe- cocktail bar and dance club. The Nitsa Club
major routes throughout the city. Therefore, r's comfort and well-being. Therefore, coming and Apolo, on Carrer Nou de la Rambla,
getting home doesn't depend on transport to an agreement between both parties shouldn't occupy a historic space that recalls the dance
options but rather on how long you can stay be too difficult to achieve. halls of long-gone days but groove to the
awake and keep up with the party. sounds of house, trance and techno. And if you
The Born and the Raval are home to a variety want to be seen at one of the trendiest discothe-
Before plunging into the night, take a minute to of venues, most of them of a rather hip and cut- ques, make your way uptown to Otto Zutz and
decide what kind of ambiance you are in the ting-edge variety. The Gothic Quarter is still check in on what the hottest DJs on the interna-
mood for. Barcelona's nightlife is extremely one of the most popular destinations for tourists tional scene are spinning on their decks.
diverse, and many areas place particular and locals alike. In addition to your run-of-the-
emphasis on one kind of nocturnal fun. The mill bars, you can dance the night away at pla- A musical genre that is gaining ground in
Eixample, for example, is home to a great ces like El Salsitas, on Nou de la Rambla, or Barcelona is jazz. Several clubs now offer live
many bars and dance clubs frequented by the listen to jazz at Jamboree, on Plaça Reial. One jazz as part of their regular programming and
local gay and lesbian community (please see note of caution: the area's popularity amongst are open every night of the week. Jamboree is
the chapter dedicated to this subject). The scene tourists has made it equally popular with pick- definitely the leading jazz venue in the city, and
is very open-minded and tolerant; therefore, if pockets and bag-snatchers. Therefore, it is a Monday nights have been dedicated to a jam
you are looking for a fun, outrageous time, free good idea to tuck your wallet in a safe place session for years. It is rather unusual to find
of prejudice and judgement, keep a night open and keep an eye on your belongings to avoid such an exciting, live music programme on a
for the Eixample regardless of your sexual any nasty surprises. Other than that, the area Monday night - especially for the very inviting
orientation. serves up the most authentic nightlife in price of 3 €.
Barcelona, and the opportunity to really dive
Maremagnum in the Port Vell might be a shop- into the multicultural character that has come to Going out at night, of course, doesn't necessa-
ping centre by day, but at night it transforms define the city. rily have to involve music. Movie buffs and
into something a little spicier. The countless theatre lovers are also well taken care of and
cocktail bars contain more than a few hotbeds Barcelona's "posh" stalwart is still the area can choose from a diverse range of program-
of salsa music, where the dancers move with surrounding the Tibidabo Mountain, where ming that usually changes almost every week.
such expertise that they might be mistaken for places such as Mirablau, a classic discotheque In terms of theatre, you can select from many
professionals. If this strikes you as somewhat with an outdoor terrace, and Danzatoria, an different performances, presented in Catalan,
intimidating or you prefer to move to a diffe- absolute must for those with a predilection for Castilian (Spanish) and even English, and
rent beat, head further down the seafront to the all that is chic, reign the night. Another fancy covering genres as varied as musicals, zarzue-
Olympic Port. After a meal at one of the res- stretch lies between the streets Marià Cubí and las, comedies, classical theatre and much,
taurants looking out onto the rows of docked Diagonal. The bars and clubs along here tend to much more. The best thing to do is pick up a
yachts, pop into any of the bars lining the mari- attract a thirty-something crowd - usually theatre listing, which can be found in most of
na. groups of friends or couples who choose their the city's major newspapers, and choose whate-
hang-outs according to the designer brands
worn by the clientele or people who simply
want to flirt with the beautiful people, of which
there are plenty to be found here.
© TakeoffGuides 2005 8
ver production strikes your fancy. Cinema in Underground: Universitat (L1 and L2)
Barcelona falls into a similar category. Foreign
films tend to reach Barcelona screens a little Medusa. This is a very calm and quiet spot,
later than in their home country, but many of ideal for an afternoon coffee or refreshment,
the big blockbusters open around the same time from Monday through Thursday. The weekend
as elsewhere around Europe and the United gives the place a whole new vibe, everyone lets
States. You can also take advantage of being in loose, the music takes hold and all prejudice is
Spain and delving into the world of local cine- shaken off. The furnishings include sofas and
ma. Spanish cinema has gained quite a growing beds, but the venue puts a high premium on dis-
reputation in recent years thanks to the work of cretion. This is gratefully embraced by a num-
iconic director Pedro Almodóvar and the recent ber of famous or somewhat famous personali-
Academy-Award winner Alejandro Amenábar, ties who come to the Medusa to enjoy a good
director of the acclaimed film "Mar Adentro". night out.
If Spanish isn't your forte, don't worry. The city Casanova, 75
has plenty of cinemas that screen films in origi- Undergound: Urgell (L1)
nal version with subtitles in Spanish; check lis-
tings at cinemas like the Verdi, located in the ding area. SHOPPING IN BARCELONA
middle of the Gràcia neighbourhood, or the
Icària Multiplex in the Olympic Port. Dietrich. Marlene Dietrich, one of the great, When it comes to shopping, Barcelona offers
mythical gay icons, is this venue's namesake. an almost infinite variety of options. Designer
The "Gaixample" Complete with resident drag queens, the place boutiques, traditional stores and souvenir shops
The Barcelona nightlife options are so varied is lathered in photographs of the screen god- all abound, creating a blend of different styles
that no one will be heading home disappointed. dess and marked by an ambiance that recalls an and attracting a diverse array of customers.
The city has plenty of mainstream venues, old-fashioned dancehall. This is a wonderful Prices vary according to where you shop and
alternative spots, bars aimed to please the very place for cocktails, which promises to serve up what you wish to purchase. As is always the
young, dancehalls for those who already have one of the greatest nights out to be found in the case, its best to take your time and compare pri-
decades of nocturnal fun under their belt and a gay scene. The venue also hosts special nights, ces. Barcelona has a lot of wonderful shops
gay district that has become an important and such as "Hot Wednesdays", which give anyone with excellent prices and interesting wares.
frequently emulated point of reference throug- who can't wait for Friday the perfect excuse to There is also no shortage of designer and brand
hout Spain. head out at night. name stores, but it would be wrong to assume
Consell de Cent, 255 that prices are cheaper here compared to other
The Eixample has always been home to many Underground: Universitat (L1 and L2) large cities.
historic gay clubs but recent years have witnes-
sed an explosion in the number of establis- Átame. A popular hang-out, great for enjoying When locals want to do a little shopping at the
hments- so much so, in fact, that the area is a cocktail and house beats in the evenings or a city's most famous stores, they usually head to
now referred to as "Gaixample". There is even coffee and some of the Spanish pop-hits in the the city centre. However, the city's growth has
a hotel, the recently-inaugurated Axel, which afternoons. The dance floor isn't really the main also expanded the shopping sector so that you
caters specifically to a gay clientele. attraction since the space is quite small - but can now buy just about anything in most city
that doesn't stop anyone from having a good neighbourhoods. Nevertheless, the greatest
The number of options is so great that choosing time. People who love to dance can do so to selection of shops is still to be found in the
a good spot for a night out in the "Gaixample" their heart's desire, and people of a more seden- main commercial district, where you can also
can turn into quite a challenge. Therefore, here tary persuasion can observe the entire club find a number of streets named after the type of
is a list of five classic venues that shouldn't be scene from the bar. The weekends usually draw product sold there. Let's take a look at some of
missed. the biggest crowds, but Tuesdays are also a the most important areas... Plaça Catalunya is
good night to pop in since you can get two the perfect place from which to start a shopping
Arena Vip. The Arena Disco group operates cocktails for the price of one from 6pm until spree. The Corte Inglés, one of Spain's classic
six venues throughout the city of which the 10pm. department stores, sells clothes, music, perfu-
Arena Vip is the most emblematic. The club Consell de Cent, 257 mes and even has a supermarket on the bottom
takes up a large space, divided into two rooms, Underground: Universitat (L1 and L2) floor. FNAC, also located on the square, is the
one spinning house and techno, the other hos- largest vendor of music, books and concert tic-
ting the beats of Rafaela Carrá and Camilo Aire BCN. Sala Diana. This is a favourite kets in Barcelona. The mega-store is located
Sesto. This spot is guaranteed to deliver a great, amongst lesbians, a place that grooves to the inside the Triangle, a collection of stores inside
fun night out - not only for the gay clientele but sounds of the 70s, 80s and 90s. Thanks to its a triangular building with entrances on Carrer
for a straight crowd too. Arena Vip is quite enormous popularity, the Sala Diana is now Pelai and Plaça Catalunya. There is another
simply the most fun and outrageous night club considered one of the best gay clubs in Europe. FNAC located on the bottom floor of the L'Illa
to be found in Barcelona. The decor and lay-out make it one of the city's Diagonal, a very popular shopping centre.
Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, 593 best dance clubs overall. However, whereas Another big attraction at the Triangle is
Underground: Universitat (L1 and L2), Passeig this might be a cult favourite for some, others Sephora, an immense, two-story shop that sells
de Gràcia (L1 and L3) might feel a tad uncomfortable here. every imaginable perfume as well as a great
Prices: 7-8 € with a free drink. Free passes to València, 236 variety of other cosmetic products.
Arena Vip can be found at bars in the surroun-
© TakeoffGuides 2005 9
Heading towards the Gothic Quarter, you will dedicated to the art of illusion. It has a comple-
run into the Portal de l'Àngel and Portaferrissa. te exhibition of everything sold at the store of
These are two of the city's busiest shopping the same name, located on Carrer Princesa 11.
streets, lined with all kinds of shops, the majo- The collection includes descriptions and
rity of which specialise in clothing and acces- various items used for this magical trade.
sories. The narrow, winding streets leading to However, seeing these objects isn't enough,
the cathedral are home to a more alternative which is why the museum complements the
variety of stores, such as silversmiths, vintage exhibition with guided visits, courses, live
clothing shops, art galleries and antique shops. demonstrations and semi-theatrical performan-
The Gothic Quarter and the Born have seen an ces. These activities demand your complete
enormous boom in their shopping sector over attention - it might be magic, but you can
the course of the last few years. This period always learn a new, little trick.
marked the closure of many old, traditional sto-
res, which were quickly replaced by designer Sport lovers shouldn't miss out on a visit to the
shops that saw these classic, historical surroun- Museu de l'Esport (Buenos Aire, 56-58, corner
dings as an excellent contrast to their modern with Diagonal, near Plaça Francesc Macià).
styles. The area that was once known purely for The centre started out as a museum about
its history has transformed into one of the hip- Catalonia's athletic history and ended up
pest and classiest neighbourhoods, home to collecting items, including shoes, rackets, and
brands such as Custo Barcelona, La Comercial, medals, belonging to some of the most renow-
Giménez Zuazo, Carhartt, Pura Vida, Outside, ned athletes of the 20th century.
etc. Bear in mind that these shops are quite pri-
cey, but they are worth a peek even if you don't In terms of outdoor activities, children are in
end of the spectrum are the people who prefer
intend to shop. A stroll through their aisles is a for a world of fun. Barcelona has a lot of green
to play the odds and wait until the very last
great way of getting acquainted with the latest areas, and some have special treats in store for
minute in order to pay the lowest prices. And
fashion trends emerging in Barcelona. The their youngest visitors. The Laberint Park in the
this difference is not too shabby - oftentimes
Rambla has largely ceded to the invasion of all Horta neighbourhood is one of the city's most
the final discount is 40% less than the initial
things tourism and is, with the exception of a unusual parks. In addition to being a quiet, rela-
price reduction.
few, individual stores, dominated by souvenir xing area, the park has a labyrinth at its centre,
shops. Here you can pick up Mexican hats, fla- shaped out of cypress hedges more than three
If you prefer functional shopping over leisurely
menco dolls and bulls complete with tiny flags, metres tall. The endless, green corridors twist
browsing, then you can always stop in at one of
all souvenirs that have long perplexed Catalans and turn and it is easy to become disoriented.
the city's shopping centres. They definitely lack
since they have absolutely nothing to do with However, it is all in good fun and everyone
the charm of the shopping streets but make up
their culture. However, the fact that they have who has made their way in, has always found
for it by being extremely practical. The shop-
been around for a very long time seems to indi- their way back out. Grown ups have to pay 1,90
ping centres, much like large shops throughout
cate that they are a lucrative business. € admission every day of the week except
the city, accept credit cards. Barcelona is home
Wednesdays and Sundays, but children always
to several shopping centres, including
The Raval is the obligatory shopping district get in for free!
Barcelona Gloríes, next to the new Agbar
for anyone remotely hip. Designer shops have
Tower, Maremagnum in Port Vell, Diagonal
cropped up amidst the traditional, neighbour- Another wonderful park for children is the
Mar next to the new Forum area, Bulevard
hood stores and diverse, international restau- Castell de l'Oreneta Park. This park is located
Rosa, with entrances on Passeig de Gràcia and
rants. These shops tend to sell brands that are on the Collserola Mountain and be accessed via
Rambla Catalunya, Pedralbes Centre on
only known to a niche clientele or people who the Can Caralleu road, the Biada Passage and
Avenida Diagonal past Plaça Francesc Macià,
are on the absolute cutting-edge of fashion. The the Ronda de Dalt off-ramp. The surprise awai-
L'Illa Diagonal close to the Maria Cristina
classic, big-name fashion houses such as ting children here is a ride in an authentic,
underground station and La Maquinista, the cit-
Carolina Herrera, Salvador Ferragamo, Loewe, miniature steam train. The tiny engine still uses
y's largest shopping centre, located in the Sant
Cartier, Chanel, etc. still prefer the luxurious coal combustion and covers a one and a half
Andreu neighbourhood. Whatever it is that you
elegance of the Passeig de Gràcia, Rambla kilometre long trajectory through tunnels and
are looking to purchase, you are more than
Catalunya and Diagonal (specifically the sec- across bridges. The train only runs on wee-
likely to find it at one of these centres.
tion stretching from Passeig de Gràcia to the kends and can be combined with a visit to the
However, if you choose to venture into the cen-
Plaça Francesc Macià). Fashion connoisseurs Pony Club. The club is another fun, weekend
tres at the weekend or during sales, come pre-
can also indulge in famous Spanish designers thing to do and allows children to get to know
pared with lots of patience and expect to be
such as Antonio Miró, Adolfo Domínguez, and even ride the friendly, little ponies.
rubbing shoulders with strangers throughout
Muxart and Purificación García, who all have
much of the day!
stores in this area. On the other hand there are
shops like Zara, which have built up entire fas-
ACTIVITIES FOR CHILDREN
hion "empires" and have shops in each of the
main shopping districts. Zara's prices are far
Travelling with children is a world onto its own
more reasonable than those of its designer
and finding fun things for them to do is an
counterparts, which makes it an outstanding
important order of business. Barcelona is rich
option for both men and women who want to
with fun activities for younger visitors (many
wear the latest fashion trends without spending
are described in the Routes section where you
their life savings. If you happen to be in
can also find telephone numbers, addresses and
Barcelona during the months of January and
timetables), which might surprise and delight
July, you are just in time to take advantage of
their parents as well.
the sales season. Every store in the city lowers
its prices, and everyone develops their own,
One of the most unusual museums is the Museo
particular strategy for making the most of the
del Rey de la Magia (The Museum of the King
good deals. Some throw themselves into the
of Magic). Located on Carrer Oli 6, in the Born
fray right at the start so that they can make sure
area near the Picasso Museum, this museum is
to get what they are looking for. At the other
© TakeoffGuides 2005 10
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