PC Chop Shop - Tricked Out Guide To PC Modding

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qxd 9/23/04 10:59 AM Page i
PC Chop Shop:
Tricked Out Guide
to PC Modding
David Groth
San Francisco • London

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PC Chop Shop:
Tricked Out Guide
to PC Modding
David Groth
San Francisco • London

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Associate Publisher: JOEL FUGAZZOTTO

Acquisitions Editor: ELIZABETH HURLEY PETERSON
Developmental Editors: BRIANNE AGATEP, JEFF KELLUM
Production Editor: LESLIE E.H. LIGHT
Technical Editor: WARREN WYROSTEK
Copyeditor: SALLY ENGELFRIED
Compositor: CHRIS GILLESPIE, HAPPENSTANCE TYPE-O-RAMA
Graphic Illustrator: HAPPENSTANCE TYPE-O-RAMA
Proofreaders: NANCY RIDDIOUGH, AMY MCCARTHY
Indexer: JOHN LEWIS
Cover Designer: RICHARD MILLER, CALYX DESIGN
Cover Illustrator/Photographer: ANDREW VOUDOURIS, XOXIDE.COM
Copyright © 2005 SYBEX Inc., 1151 Marina Village Parkway, Alameda, CA
94501. World rights reserved. No part of this publication may be stored in a
retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited
to photocopy, photograph, magnetic, or other record, without the prior agreement
and written permission of the publisher.
Library of Congress Card Number: 2004109305
ISBN: 0-7821-4360-1
SYBEX and the SYBEX logo are either registered trademarks or trademarks of
SYBEX Inc. in the United States and/or other countries.
Screen reproductions produced with FullShot 99. FullShot 99 © 1991-1999 Inbit
Incorporated. All rights reserved.
FullShot is a trademark of Inbit Incorporated.
TRADEMARKS: SYBEX has attempted throughout this book to distinguish propri-
etary trademarks from descriptive terms by following the capitalization style used
by the manufacturer.
The author and publisher have made their best efforts to prepare this book, and the
content is based upon final release software whenever possible. Portions of the
manuscript may be based upon pre-release versions supplied by software manufac-
turer(s). The author and the publisher make no representation or warranties of any
kind with regard to the completeness or accuracy of the contents herein and accept
no liability of any kind including but not limited to performance, merchantability,
fitness for any particular purpose, or any losses or damages of any kind caused or
alleged to be caused directly or indirectly from this book.
Manufactured in the United States of America
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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To everyone who ever disassembled anything to see how it worked.
Acknowledgments
I want to thank everyone at Sybex for having faith in this book. Of all the books I've ever written,
this was probably the most fun. I would like to thank Elizabeth for her work in the development
of the book and its concept and Leslie for commandeering the project and making it happen.
Thanks go to Jeff Kellum, Sally Engelfried, Nancy Riddiough, Amy McCarthy, Jack Lewis, and
the great design folks at Happenstance Type-O-Rama.
I would also like to thank Corsair and Xoxide for donating parts for the Sybex mod—
they made this book happen as much as any of the people who worked on the words within.
Finally, thanks to my wife, Linda—who was patient while I was grumpy, and to my
kids—who helped me relax by letting me read them stories when I needed to.
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Foreword
Have you ever seen the film The Fast and the Furious? The testosterone-
fueled film that features eye candy–laden hot rods adorned with unending modifications
and glaring lights is a true testament to the potential that mankind has when art meets
passion, function, and performance. I often use that film as a way to help people under-
stand the hobby of PC modding. The similarities between a hot rod enthusiast and a PC
enthusiast are many. PC modification is a hobby that is relatively new, and what makes it
so appealing is that it is an outlet for artistic creativity that in some cases can yield tangible
benefits to performance. In others, it can lead to fame or even a full-time career. No matter
what mod you do, part of the end result will always be that it was rewarding. Whether
successful or failed, attractive or ugly, you learned something (and hopefully have a sweet
looking and/or running PC).
My first “mod” was performed by taking a plain beige midtower case and drawing
tribal flames up, around, and over the case using a blue sharpie marker (http://gallery.
pimprig.com/showphoto.php?photo=894). Shortly after that little mod done back in 2000, I
began to notice others who had the same ideas but already were beginning to take it a
step further. You can see my latest project to see the progression here: http://gallery.
pimprig.com/showphoto.php?photo=2757. Manufacturers quickly took notice and hustled to
sell innovative specialty products for the growing modding community. Have you noticed
how it is actually easier to find a colored case than a beige one now? The PC modding
trend has definitely outgrown fad status.
Not long after that first mod I launched PimpRig.com, which has experienced
unexpected, rapid growth. In less than two years I had a website with over 5000 members
and a forum that has an average of 100 members discussing topics at any given time.
PC modding, and my coverage of the topic since my start, has been a major contributing
factor to my success and has allowed me to run the website as a full-time career. Other
creative PC enthusiasts have been able to use their modding skills to create their own
careers that revolve around the creation and sale of these tricked out computers. PC mod-
ding is big, and it will only get bigger.
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What exactly is a PC mod? Anything you have done to alter the PC. For instance,
here are some topics the guides at PimpRig.com cover: custom window etching techniques,
custom wire sleeving techniques, and painting. There are countless mods that can be
performed on nearly any PC case and/or component. Any mod guide that you read will
contribute to your overall knowledge, and the instructions and techniques contained
in PC Chop Shop will undoubtedly help you make your own modding ideas a reality.
Remember that PC modding is a hobby for anyone and everyone. I have seen high
school students, teachers, military, medical professionals, and nearly any other profes-
sion or demographic. Get informed, get involved, and have fun!
Smack ya rig up!

GARY MULLINS
Administrator
www.pimprig.com
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Contents
Introduction x
Chapter 1 Introduction to PC Modification 1

The What, Why, and Who of Modification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
What Is It? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Why Do It? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Who Is Doing It? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Warnings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Warranty Voiding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Parts Destruction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Safety Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Metal Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Tool Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Chemical Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Preventing Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Workspace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Basic Hand Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Small Power Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Other Specialized Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Modding Chemicals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Paints . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Glues and Adhesives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Solvents and Cleaners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Modification Prerequisites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Choosing a Theme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Purchasing the Needed Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Disassembling an Existing PC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
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Modification Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Have a Plan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Know Your Limitations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Have a Clean Workspace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Collect Parts and Tools Beforehand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Have Fun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Chapter 2 Basic Modifications 41

Lighting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
LEDs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Neon Lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Cold Cathodes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
EL Tape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
EL Wire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
UV Lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Other Light Types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 vii
Decals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
■ CONTENTS
Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Custom Made . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Case Wraps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Cable Management . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
Using Rounded IDE cables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
Using Zip Ties . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
Using Tie Downs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Sleeving Cables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Chapter 3 Case Modification 77

Case Windows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Window Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Window Etching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Other Window Techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Premodded Cases . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
Metal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
Acrylic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Laptop Modifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
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Chapter 4 Drive Modifications 99

Activity LEDs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Changing Case Hard Drive Activity LEDs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Changing CD-ROM and Floppy LEDs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
Cutouts or Drive Windows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Stealthing CD-ROM Drives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
Chapter 5 Cooling Modifications 117

Fans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Fan Sizes and Air Movement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
Fan Types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
Fan Grilles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
Fan Controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Memory Cooling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
viii Hard Drive Cooling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
CONTENTS ■
Chipset Cooling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126

CPU Cooling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
Air Cooling Methods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
Advanced CPU Cooling Methods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Silent Cooling Methods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Quiet Case Fans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
Sound Deadening Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
Chapter 6 Performance Modifications 135

Overclocking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
CPU Overclocking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
Video Card Overclocking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Disk Subsystem Enhancements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
Memory Enhancements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
Chapter 7 Peripheral Modifications 143

Keyboards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Keyboard Lighting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Keyboard Painting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
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Mice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
Optical Mouse LED Changeover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
Mouse Painting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
Lighted Mousepads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
Speakers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
Monitors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
Chapter 8 Painting 159

Paint Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
Paint Chemistry and Terminology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
Paint Delivery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
Painting Supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
Where to Paint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
The Painting Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
Step 1: Surface Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 ix
Step 2: Priming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
■ CONTENTS
Step 3: Finish Sanding and Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Step 4: Sealing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
Step 5: Painting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Step 6: Finishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
Painting Plastic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
Chapter 9 Other Modifications 191

Adding AC Devices to a PC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
Key Switch Power Switch Mod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
Adding an LCD screen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
Go For It! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
Index 204
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Introduction
For years, people have put up with the designs from major computer
manufacturers because they felt they had no choice in the way their
computer looked. However, some people have taken it upon them-
selves to make their computers match their personalities and their
own sense of style. As time goes on, more and more people want to
make their computer their own and customize it to their liking. This
x ever-growing trend is known as computer modification or modding.
INTRODUCTION ■
There are some similarities between modding and the hot rodders of the ’50s and
’60s. Hot rodding started with people who wanted to build a car that was unique and
matched their personality, so they took existing cars and customized them. People tend
to customize things to make them more their own, to match their sense of style. In fact,
that’s why we called the book the PC Chop Shop—to pay homage to the rod shops of
the ’50s and ’60s.
You will learn in this book about the different types of modifications that have
been done, and you will see how to do them. But, if you are going to do any computer
modification, you must realize that these procedures are only the beginning. Build on
them yourself and come up with new modifications to make something truly unique.
Let your imagination go and design a computer that isn’t just another gray or beige lump
sitting next to your desk!
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Contributing Companies
Corsair Memory provided the author with a 512MB Corsair Pro Memory Module. Corsair
Memory has been designing and manufacturing high-speed modules to meet the perform-
ance demands of extreme gamers since 1994. For information on this and other quality
products from Corsair Memory, visit their website: www.corsairmemory.com.
Xoxide.com provided the following products:
• Rounded IDE cable
• Blue cold cathode with extra blue bulb
• Blue meteor light
• 120mm blue fan
• Serial ATA power adapter
• 18" EL wire SATA cable
xi
• Blue Lazer Tri-LEDs
■ INTRODUCTION
• PS change-over kit
• Techflex chrome sleeving kit
• Silver lighted keyboard
For a full list of the products available from Xoxide.com, visit their website:
www.xoxide.com.
Many of the pictures of mods in the color section were collected by Gary “Glitterkill”
Mullins and his staff at PimpRig.com. Visit them online at www.pimprig.com.
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Introduction to PC
Modification
Okay, you may have picked up this book out of
sheer curiosity and asked the question everyone
asks: “What is this book about?” Well, it is about
the process and art (and yes, it is truly an art)
of modifying a computer to make it match the
1
modifier’s vision
■ I N T R O D U C T I O N T O P C M O D I F I C AT I O N
If you looked at the cover of this book and couldn’t
guess what was inside, the figure on the facing page
shows the difference between a standard computer
1
and a modified one.
In this chapter, you will learn about what computer

modification is, the tools and skills needed to do
it, and some of the warnings that go along with it.
Chapter Contents
The What,Why, and Who of Modification
Warnings
Safety
Tools
Modding Chemicals
Modification Prerequisites
Modification Tips
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The What, Why, and Who of Modification

Before we get into the meat of modification, I’ll give you a little background on what
exactly computer modification is. It’s primarily a PC-related phenomenon, but there
have been several Macintosh computers modified over the years (remember the Mac
Plus fish tanks?). First off, it is important to use the right terminology. A modified com-
puter is normally designated as having been modded. And a single modification or single
theme is often known as a mod. A person who does these mods is known as a modder.
Note: Mod is actually short for case mod because the first modifications were mainly to the case of the
computer, not to any other component.
What Is It?
2
Mods fall into two categories: case mods and computer mods. Case mods are those
I N T R O D U C T I O N T O P C M O D I F I C AT I O N ■
modifications that really only affect the case or the looks of the internals—that is,
visual modifications. Computer mods are generally those mods that include not only
case mods, but entire electronic constructions and modifications.
For example, Figure 1.1 is an example of a typical case mod. It uses colored
lights, has a window in the side, and has multiple case fans.
1: CHAPTER
Figure 1.1 A sample modded case

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Why Do It?
Because you can!
Most people who do case modding do it because they don’t want the same com-
puter that everyone else has. Computer modders are usually those people who customize
everything to make it resemble their personality.
Modding is truly an art form. It is an expression of the creativity and talents of the
modder. By looking at the case mods a person does, you can get a sense of who they are.
Besides, when you go to a LAN party, in addition to your gaming skills, don’t
you want to show off your case modding skills? As a matter of fact, at most major LAN
parties (especially ones like QuakeCon) there are case mod contests for cash and prizes.
Cool, huh?
Who Is Doing It?

You might be asking yourself, “Yes, this is cool, but who is doing this?” Well, gamers
are the primary people doing case modding. You might think that this represents a fairly 3
■ WA R N I N G S
small percentage of the entire population (the demographic is mainly the 14–22 year old
male). However, the case modding trend is becoming so popular that major computer
retail chains (Best Buy, CompUSA, and so on) are carrying modding parts.
More and more people are trying to create something unique for themselves out
of their computer. They don’t want the same old beige box sitting on or next to their
desk. For that matter, some don’t want a box at all—some mod the computer right into
their desk.
Warnings
Okay, from here on out, you’re going to learn about how to mod your computer. But I
would be remiss in my duties as an author and case modder if I didn’t make extremely
clear before you do anything some of the things you need to understand about the dangers
of modding your computer or building a modified computer. These issues include:
• Warranty issues
• Parts destruction
Warranty Voiding
Most often, modding will void any and all warranties by the manufacturer. These com-
ponents (except for modding components themselves) were not designed to be modified.
So, in case you missed it:
Any modification work you do on computer components outside of what the
factory intended will most likely void your warranty. If you mess up, it’s your fault.
You will have to buy a new part. If you don’t want to buy a new part, don’t do it.
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Parts Destruction
With some of the advanced mods, you will be taking apart components that may not
have been designed to be taken apart (for example, hard drives). It is completely possible
that unless you are careful, you may destroy a very valuable component. Even if you
follow the directions I outline here, problems do occur. Something as small as a single
particle of dust or metal filing can render a component unusable.
Safety
As if the other warnings weren’t enough, there are several safety issues to consider as
well. In addition to damaging components, it is possible to harm yourself while modding
computers if you’re not careful. You will be working with tools and, unless you are com-
pletely familiar with their proper use, you can seriously hurt yourself.
Pay attention to the warnings in this chapter and those dispersed throughout
the book.
4
Safety Equipment
Safety begins with proper attire. What you wear while modding is important. Your clothes
should fit, and there should not be any loose fabric that might catch in a spinning blade
or shaft. Also, if you have long hair, your hair should be pulled back and out of your
face so it doesn’t interfere with what you are doing.
Some of the other safety equipment you may need to use includes:
• Eye protection
• Ear protection
• Gloves
• Breathing masks and filters
1:
You can buy many of these items at your local hardware store or paint store.
CHAPTER
Let’s take a quick look at each of these and how each should be used properly. Some
of these pieces of equipment you may have used before, but some you may not have.
Eye Protection
My shop teacher in high school used to say, “You only get two eyes, fellas, so put them
goggles on.” Eye protection of some kind is usually made of polycarbonate or some
other tough plastic material and comes in two styles: safety glasses and true goggles.
Safety glasses look like regular glasses, except they have polycarbonate lenses and extra
side guards attached to the earpieces. Safety goggles, on the other hand, are better for
people who wear glasses because they completely surround the eyes and are secured to
your head with an elastic band.
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Whichever works for your particular situation, just make sure you use them
whenever there’s a possibility of flying dust or debris.
Ear Protection
When working with metal and plastic, you’ll often use high-speed cutting tools. These
tools make loud, high-pitched noise when they’re doing they’re job (though they do
their job very well). These high-pitched noises can damage your hearing when you’re
exposed to them for a long time. So, it’s a very good idea to wear some kind of ear pro-
tection, like ear plugs or the sort of ear muffs that look like large padded headphones.
Gloves
You might be thinking, “Why would I need gloves?” Well, for one main reason: to pro-
tect your hands from sharp edges and dangerous chemicals. Freshly cut openings can
be razor sharp, so it’s a good idea to have a pair of canvas or similar gloves to protect
your hands when working with metal.
5
Additionally, when working with solvents or paints, it’s a good idea to use some
■ SAFETY
kind of nitrile gloves that are solvent proof. You can usually buy a pack of 100 at a
tool store like Harbor Freight (www.harborfreight.com) for around $10. Isn’t your skin
worth $10?
If by chance you might be welding on your case, you should have a pair of thick
welding gloves. They’re usually made of leather and are long enough to protect you hands
and forearms from sparks and burns. Most mods are done without welding, however.
Breathing Masks and Filters

Probably the most important and most overlooked safety equipment is breathing protec-
tion equipment. Whenever you do modding, you will constantly be creating particulate
matter like small metal filings, paint dust, and so on. It is not healthy to breathe this in.
In addition, painting creates dangerous fumes. These fumes, if inhaled, can cause
headaches, dizziness, even death (especially if using automotive urethanes).
For this reason, you need to use the right kind of breathing protection. For dust
and other particulate matter, you should wear a dust mask according to the manufac-
turer’s directions. Dust masks are made of a tightly woven paper fabric.
However, a dust mask only filters dust, it doesn’t filter out fumes. So, if you’re
going to do any painting, you should buy a painting respirator. These masks have dual
charcoal filters and a one-way valve. When you breathe in, the valve is held closed and
the incoming air is filtered through the charcoal filters. When you exhale, your breath
goes out the one-way valve. Figure 1.2 shows an example of a painting respirator.
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6
Figure 1.2 A sample painting respirator
Warning: These painting masks are okay for aerosol spray can painting, but if you are going to use
automotive paint and automotive spray equipment, this kind of a mask is not sufficient.
Warning: The charcoal filters in painting respirators should be replaced every six months or so (more
often if used heavily). If you can smell paint while wearing the respirator, stop painting and replace the respi-
1: CHAPTER
rator’s filter cartridges.
The final kind of breathing protection equipment is only necessary if you are
doing automotive painting. If you spray automotive paints using a spray gun, you must
use a forced air breathing apparatus (FABA). This system (as shown in Figure 1.3) uses a
compressor or air pump to bring in fresh, filtered air from outside the spraying area and
feed it directly to the mask. That way, no contaminated air can be breathed because
fresh air is always pushed to the mask. These systems are very expensive ($500–$1000),
but are worth it if you do any automotive paint jobs.
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Note: If you want this quality of paint job and are only going to do it once, it makes sense to sand the
panels yourself, then take them to a body shop.They can usually do the job for much less than it would cost
you to buy the equipment.
■ SAFETY
Figure 1.3 A forced air breathing apparatus (FABA)
Metal Safety
First of all, most cases are made of some type of metal (be it steel or aluminum). You
will often need to make holes in the case metal (using a drill, nibbler, or whatever) to
install a fan or window. When you are cutting these holes in the metal, you must be
very careful not to cut yourself on the sharp edges of a fresh cut. It is a good idea to
dress the fresh cut with a file or sandpaper (I’ll cover exactly how to do that later).
Also, when cutting metal, as we already discussed, make sure to wear the proper
safety gear, especially when using power cutting tools. To minimize the chances of cut-
ting yourself, wear thick leather gloves. These tools will also often throw sparks and
small shards of metal with force, and these shards can embed themselves in your skin
or your eyes. In addition to the gloves, you should wear goggles and ear protection
when cutting metal with power tools.
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Also when cutting metal, be aware of combustible fumes in the air. Stray sparks
may ignite these fumes and cause a fire, or worse, an explosion.
These same power tools can also catch on the metal and possibly “kick back” so
take your time when making a cut and hold the tool security.
Above all, pay attention to what you are doing. The biggest cause of accidents is
distraction!
Tool Safety
Tool safety is primarily about knowing the proper way to use a tool so that you don’t
injure yourself or others. It’s fairly obvious to state don’t put your fingers into any
moving parts, don’t run with scoring tools, pencils, or scissors, yada yada yada.
In addition, follow the correct procedure for using the tool and the instructions
that came with the tool. Most power tools come with safety instructions, so be sure to
read and follow them before using the tool.
8 Chemical Safety
You will be using several dangerous chemicals when doing case modding, including
paints, thinners, and cleaners. These chemicals pose danger because you can inhale
their fumes, get the chemical on your skin, or accidentally ingest the chemical.
Each chemical has a special sheet that lists the hazards it can be to human health
and well being. These sheets are known as a Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS), and
they are available from the manufacturer and distributors of chemicals. An MSDS also
tells what should be done in case of exposure to the chemical.
Generally speaking, it is a good idea when working with chemicals of any kind
to wear protective gear (eye protection, gloves, and so on). Also, if the chemical you
are using (paints, thinners, and so on) emits fumes, you should wear breathing protec-
tion and work in a well ventilated area.
1: CHAPTER
Preventing Electrostatic Discharge (ESD)

Electrostatic discharge (ESD) happens when two objects of dissimilar charge come in
contact with one another. The two objects exchange electrons in order to standardize
the electrostatic charge between them. This charge can cause problems such as making
a computer hang or reboot. It can also, and often does, damage electronic components.
The likelihood that a component will be damaged grows with the increasing use
of Complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductor (CMOS) chips, because these chips
contain a thin metal oxide layer that is hypersensitive to ESD. The previous generation’s
Transistor-Transistor Logic (TTL) chips are more robust than the newer CMOS chips
because they don’t contain this metal oxide layer. Most of today’s ICs are CMOS chips,
so ESD is more of a concern.
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Note: CPU chips and memory chips are particularly sensitive to ESD. Be extremely cautious when handling
these chips.
The lowest static voltage transfer you can feel is around 3000 volts (it doesn’t
electrocute you because there is extremely little current). A static transfer that you can
see is at least 10,000 volts! Just by sitting in a chair, you can generate around 100 volts
of static electricity. Walking around wearing synthetic materials can generate around
1000 volts. When you shuffle your feet across the floor and shock your best friend on
the ear, you are discharging static electricity into the ear of your friend. You can easily
generate around 20,000 volts simply by dragging your smooth-soled shoes across a
shag carpet in the winter. (Actually, it doesn’t have to be winter to run this danger. This
voltage can occur in any room with very low humidity.)
It makes sense that these thousands of volts can damage computer components.
However, a component can be damaged with as little as 80 volts! That means if even a 9
■ SAFETY
small charge is built up in your body, you could damage a component without realizing it.
Antistatic Wrist Strap

There are measures you can implement to help contain the effects of ESD. The first
and easiest is wearing the antistatic wrist strap, also referred to as an ESD strap. To
use the ESD strap, you attach one end to an earth ground (typically the ground pin on
an extension cord) and wrap the other end around your wrist. This strap grounds your
body and keeps it at a zero charge. Figure 1.4 shows the proper way to attach an anti-
static strap.
Warning: An ESD strap is a specially designed device to bleed electrical charges away safely. It uses a
1-megohm resistor to bleed the charge away slowly. A simple wire wrapped around your wrist will not work
correctly and could electrocute you!
Pin connects to ground pin ESD strap

(small round hole) or
earth ground
Outlet Figure 1.4 Proper ESD strap connection

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Warning: There is only one situation in which you should not wear an ESD strap: if you wear one while
working on the inside of a CRT monitor, you increase the chance of getting a lethal shock.
Antistatic Bags for Parts

Antistatic bags are important tools to have at your disposal when disassembling a com-
puter for modification because they protect the sensitive electronic devices from stray
static charges. These silver or pink bags are designed so that the static charges collect
on the outside of the bags rather than inside on the electronic components.
You can obtain antistatic bags from several sources. The most direct way is to
go to an electronics supply store and purchase them in bulk—most have several sizes
available. Perhaps the easiest way to obtain them, however, is simply to hold on to the
ones that come your way. That is, when you purchase any new component, it usually
10 comes in an antistatic bag. Once you install the component, keep the bag. It may take
you a while to gather a collection of bags if you take this approach, but eventually you
will have a fairly large assortment.
Now that we’ve gotten all the negative stuff out of the way (so you can’t say no
one told you), let’s get to my favorite part, the tools!
Tools
Ask anyone that knows me—one of my favorite parts of modding is the great tools I
get to use. Any chance to buy or borrow and use a new tool is for me! <insert male
grunt here> Tools are a great thing. I can change and modify my world at my very
whim while making a lot of noise the whole time!
Modding PCs doesn’t require many special tools, but there are a few that you’ll
1:
need to use for specific projects, and we’ll need to discuss the tools and work area
CHAPTER
before we get to the projects themselves.
Workspace
Where you work is almost as important as what you work on. Ideally, you’re going to
want to have a workshop, or at least some space you can spread out all of your com-
ponents and parts while you are working. Keep in mind that if you are doing any of
the paint work yourself, you can paint outside, but you’ll have more work when clean-
ing up the paint job because there will be more dust and trash in the paint.
So, find a place you can work, like a basement or garage, that has a flat, stable,
level surface to work on, like a workbench. Although you can use a table without any
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problems, it really helps if the workbench is at countertop height (about 36″ off the
floor) to make it more comfortable . That way you’re not stooping to work and hurt-
ing your back.
It also helps if there’s a light above the workbench, or at the very least, the area
should be well lit. I like using halogen light fixtures because they give off lots of light
and, in the winter (for those of you who live in the northern climate, as I do), they
serve as an additional heat source.
For those long modding sessions, remember that you’re going to be standing in
place for a long time, so try and find something comfy to stand on. They make special
mats for this, but they’re expensive. I find that a small carpet remnant from a carpet
store is great (plus it’s so cheap you can throw it away when it gets really dirty).
It’s nice if you have a place to put all your tools when you’re not using them. A
toolbox on the workbench is good; a freestanding toolbox is better. Integrated cabinets
are the ideal, for the person with an unlimited budget.
I also have a small section of black padding on top of my workbench for when
11
I’m working on delicate items that I don’t want scratched (like fresh paint jobs). It’s
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actually a roll of the padding material for drawers of tool chests. If you don’t want to
spend the money on that, use a couple of layers of cotton rags or towels when working
with freshly painted parts
As far as bench material is concerned, you can buy either a premade metal or
wood workbench, but a wood workbench is preferred for many reasons, including low
cost and ease of construction. As a matter of fact, you can make a sturdy workbench
out of two sawhorses and an old wood door.
Basic Hand Tools

Every person should know how to use a basic set of hand tools. They’re cheap and
simple to use and they usually come in sets. Plus, they have multiple uses. Some of the
hand tools used in case modding include:
• Screwdrivers
• Wrenches
• Sockets
• Aviation snips
• Riveting tool
• Marking and measuring tools
• Sandpaper
• Center punch
• Files
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Screwdrivers
The screwdriver is probably the most commonly used tool in case modification. Most
case covers are held on with screws of some sort, so you’ll need to have a few of these
in your modding toolkit. I imagine you’ve seen a screwdriver before.
Note: You might want to consider a nonmagnetic multibit driver that uses interchangeable bits. It is
cheaper than buying several screwdrivers and is more compact.
Wrenches
Every workshop needs to have a set of wrenches. A wrench, if you didn’t already
know, is the tool used to turn nuts and bolts. There are three basic types:
• Box end
12
• Open end
• Combination
In addition to the three types, wrenches also come in two different measuring
scales: standard and metric. It’s a good idea to have a set of both.
Note: If you are buying only one set of wrenches, buy a set of combination wrenches. Also, spend the little
extra money and buy a good, solid set with a lifetime replacement warranty (like a Craftsman or Snap-On set,
or similar).
1:
Socket Set
CHAPTER
If you are going to have a set of tools, you should include a socket set in your purchase.
Sockets are like the individual box ends of wrenches with a special driver (called a
socket wrench or ratchet), so you essentially have one wrench handle, with replaceable
ends. The sockets come in different sizes, much like wrenches (and in both standard
and metric as well). In addition, the ratchets and sockets are sized by the size of the
square drive tang on the socket wrench and matching hole on the socket. Common
socket set sizes include 1/4″ drive, 3/8″ drive, and 1/2″ drive. For case modding, I like to
use the 1/4″ drive because the sockets are smaller and can get into tight places. You
might also need a few different lengths of extensions and swivel couplers to help get
into tight places
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Aviation Snips
When cutting sheet metal, the best hand tool designed for the job is a pair of aviation
snips. You can use them to cut metal just as if you were using scissors to cut paper.
There are three variations of these snips, two of which are shown in Figure 1.5.
The colors of their handles indicate their offset and which direction they will cut easiest.
Green handled snips cut right, red handled shears cut left, and the yellow handled shears
cut in straight lines. If you are making complex cuts, you may have to use more than
one of them. So if you are going to buy them, it’s best to buy the set of three instead of
just one.
Riveting Tool
Pop rivets are often used to hold case internal structures together where it would not
be practical to use screws. A rivet essentially squeezes two pieces of material together
and holds them together. Rivets are installed using a pop-riveting tool. This tool pulls
the pin on the rivet that swells the backside of the rivet, thus putting pressure on the 13
■ TOOLS
second piece of material. Figure 1.6 shows how pop rivets work. Notice that the rivet
swells in the picture on the right. When the rivet is fastened by squeezing the handle
on the riveting tool, the tool pulls the plunger in the rivet up, thus expanding the metal
of the rivet. This expansion prevents the rivet from popping through the hole. This is
how the rivet holds two pieces of metal together.
Figure 1.5 Aviation shears

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Figure 1.6 How riveting works
Note: Its best to use rivets only if you never need to take the pieces apart again. In order to remove rivets,
14 you have to drill them out.
Marking and Measuring Tools

Whenever you are fabricating with computer cases, you need to be able to make
accurate measurements and markings before you cut or drill. This is where you need
to have the best possible tools available for marking and measuring. There are three
categories of marking and measuring tools:
• Measuring tools
• Marking tools
• Squares and straight edges
1:
Measuring tools of various kinds are used for one primary purpose, to determine
CHAPTER
lengths and sizes. Usually, when you are measuring an opening’s size or measuring
the length or width of a new piece being fabricated, you can use any number of dif-
ferent types of measuring tools.
The most common measuring tool is a tape measure. It is essentially a long,
metal tape with measuring markings on it (usually graduated in sixteenths of an inch).
The metal tape is pulled out to take a measurement; it then retracts back automatically
when you are finished.
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Although a tape measure works, I like to use a ruler for making measurements. I
find it a bit more precise and less unruly (forgive the pun) than a tape measure. It can
also double as a straight edge (discussed later).
When taking measurements for cuts and holes, you will need to make some kind
of mark to indicate where to cut. There are several tools you can use for this, including:
Pencil A very good tool for marking, but if you are going to use it to mark your cuts,
make sure it is a sharp one so it makes a clean line.
Marker Arguably, the worst choice for marking cuts in case modding. It typically
makes a thick line, which leads to inaccuracies. Plus, the ink may not always be com-
patible with the finish you choose to paint your case with and may cause paint lifting
or bleed-through. But it will work in a pinch.
Scribe This is the best tool for marking metal and plastic. It is usually made of metal
with a sharpened point. It can make very fine lines in metal and other materials. The
only downside is that you must be careful with the point so that it remains sharp.
15
■ TOOLS
When cutting metal (or any material for that matter) it is important that the cuts
be straight and square (perfect 90° angles to the other sides). For those two functions,
when marking a cut, you should use a square. In the case of non-90° angle cuts, you
should use a straight edge to mark a straight line between two points. Figure 1.7 shows
an example of a square and a straight edge.
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Figure 1.7 A square and a straight edge
16
Note: You might also look into buying a bevel gauge (used for copying angles).
Sandpaper
If you are doing any work on the outside of your case, like cutting holes in it, or if you
paint the case, you will need to know a little something about sandpaper. Sandpaper is
essentially a paper impregnated with some kind of abrasive. The amount of abrasive on
the paper is measured in varying degrees of roughness, called grits. Each grit is given a
number that corresponds to how many abrasive particles there are per square inch. The
higher the number, the finer the grade of paper and the less material it will remove. For
1:
example, you might use 60 grit to remove paint from metal and to take burrs off
CHAPTER
freshly cut fan holes, but you would use 600 grit to sand primer before applying paint.
You can buy sandpaper in sheets or rolls from any hardware or home improve-
ment store. You can buy in either single sheets or packs of several sheets. Consider
buying the packs, as you will always find uses for it. I advise having the following grits:
• 80 grit for removing paint and deburring holes
• 150 grit for roughing up paint and texturing metal
• 220 grit for smoothing
• 340 grit for finish sanding
• 600 grit for sanding plastic before painting
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If you are going to use a power sander of some sort, you should be able to buy
sandpaper for it in the grits listed.
Note: If you are buying sheets of sandpaper, consider also buying a sanding block or make one out of a
flat piece of hard wood.When painting, it will help ensure a smooth, flat surface. Plus, when shaping metal, it
helps provide a backing for more even sanding.
It’s pretty easy to use sandpaper. Basically, you just need to move the rough side
of the paper back and forth across the surface to be sanded. If you are trying to remove
burrs and sharp edges from metal, be sure to use a sanding block and hold the paper at
a 45° angle to the metal being sanded.
Center Punch
A center punch is a small hand tool shaped like a pencil (Figure 1.8). It is used to make 17
■ TOOLS
small dents in metal. The primary purpose of a center punch in modding is to help
start drilled holes properly (especially in metal). Making a small indent exactly where
you want the hole to go will prevent the drill bit from wandering all over the place
when you are trying to start the hole.
What you do is mark the location for the hole you are making (with pencil,
scribe, or whatnot) with a “+”, place the point of the center punch exactly in the center
of the +, then strike it quickly and sharply with a hammer. If you do it right, there will
be a small dent exactly in the center of where you want the new hole to go. You can
then proceed with drilling.
Figure 1.8 A center punch

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Files
A file is a special tool with multiple serrations. It’s main use is to remove precise
amounts of metal or wood evenly. Files are very flat (or are precisely rounded) and
made of metal with serrations on all sides. They come in both coarse and fine serra-
tions. For metal work, I recommend a medium or fine serrated file.
Files work just like sandpaper in that all you need to do to remove metal is to
draw the file back and forth across the end of the metal (as shown in Figure 1.9) to
make it even. Files work extremely well to remove the small burrs and uneven spots that
occur when cutting case window holes. They also work well for squaring up corners.
Small Power Tools

Hand tools are inexpensive and easy to use, but when you are trying to get something
done, there is nothing like a power tool to make the job go faster. There are several
types of power tools, but the ones used most often in case modding are smaller power
18 tools (usually handheld) There are several types of small power tools that are used
when modding computers, including:

• Dremel
• Drill
• Nibbler
• Shear
• Soldering iron or gun
• Hot glue gun
1: CHAPTER
Figure 1.9 Proper use of a file

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Warning: Power tools can be very dangerous. Make sure you are wearing the proper safety gear when
using them.
Dremel Multitool
Probably the most used tool in any modder’s toolkit is the high-speed rotary multitool,
and the number one brand is the Dremel MultiPro—so much so that people just say, “I
used my Dremel to make that hole.” To that end, I’ll refer to it as the Dremel through-
out the book. Figure 1.10 shows an example of a Dremel.
The Dremel can do many things, including sanding, cutting, buffing, drilling,
and any other operation where you need high-speed rotary action. If you buy a Dremel
in a kit, you’ll usually get the attachments for doing all those actions in the kit. Other-
wise, you have to buy them separately. Some of the attachments include:
• Cutting wheel 19
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• Sanding drum
• Engraving bit
• Buffing wheel
• Flex-shaft
Figure 1.10 A Dremel high-speed rotary multitool

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The most commonly used Dremel attachment for case modding is the cutting
wheel. It’s used for cutting holes for windows and cutting other kinds of openings in
the case. It consists of two parts, the mandrel and the cutting wheel itself. The man-
drel is just the stick that the cutting wheel is screwed to so that it can be spun by the
Dremel.
Cutting wheels come in different sizes and types, but case modders mainly use
two different types of cutting wheels, unreinforced and reinforced. Figure 1.11 shows
examples of these.
The one on the left side of the photo is the unreinforced kind. Essentially, it’s
a solid disk of abrasive. This kind is okay for cutting plastic and metal, but with any
small amount of force, they will shatter into a hundred pieces, usually at high speed.
They do work, and they are extremely cheap, but they can be dangerous, and you’ll
have to use a lot of them to cut a decent-sized hole. The main reason case modders use
these is that they can cut an extremely thin line (called a kerf) and because they come
with their Dremel kits.
20
The cutting wheel shown on the right side of the photo is the reinforced cutting
wheel, which is the desired type. These cutting wheels can cut materials better, last
much longer, and most importantly, because they are reinforced with strands of fiber-
glass, rarely shatter when cutting. However, they are also much more expensive (about
$1 apiece).
Sanding drums are used to smooth things. That’s it—that’s all they do. The sanding
cylinders fit over a special round rubber drum that holds them for a Dremel. Figure 1.12
shows examples of Dremel sanding drums.
Another frequently used Dremel attachment is the engraving bit (Figure 1.13).
It can etch a window or engrave metal. It is usually used at the highest speed, and
unless you are careful, with one slip you can ruin an entire panel and put a nice
scratch across it.
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Figure 1.11 Dremel cutting wheel examples

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Figure 1.12 Dremel sanding drum

attachment
21
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Figure 1.13 An engraving bit
The last Dremel bit you might use is the buffing wheel. These small felt wheels
(Figure 1.14) are used to polish metal. When used with the proper compound, they can
make aluminum or stainless steel shine like chrome.
Note: There are also full-size buffing wheels available for polishing metals to a mirror shine using special
abrasive compounds.These wheels attach to a grinder motor and work very well on aluminum. One company
that sells these is Eastwood (www.eastwoodco.com).
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The flex-shaft is really nice to have when doing any kind of fine detail work. It
extends the rotating shaft of the Dremel through a long, flexible tube capped with a
rigid tube and allows you to hold the Dremel attachments like a pencil for much finer
and more precise control. This accessory is very handy for doing engraving work.
Figure 1.15 shows a Dremel outfitted with this tool.
22
Figure 1.14 A Dremel buffing wheel

1: CHAPTER
Figure 1.15 A Dremel with a flex-shaft

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Drill
Face it: most cases are made of metal and plastic. And often you will have to put holes
in those materials. The best way to do it is to use a drill. You’ve most likely seen one
before, but in case you haven’t, it’s pistol-shaped with a motor and trigger switch. Vari-
ous sizes of bits are secured into the motor and used to make holes.
There are two main types of drills, battery-powered (also known as portable or
cordless), and conventional. A battery-powered drill is basically the same as a conven-
tional drill, except the power comes from a long-lasting battery, which causes them to
be heavier. I recommend battery-powered because they are much more flexible than
and almost as powerful as the conventional type.
Most battery-powered drills are advertised by the number of volts their batteries
use (9.6V, 12V, 18V, and so on). The higher the voltage, the more power the drill has.
A word of advice: if you are going to buy a portable drill, buy the best one you can
afford with the highest voltage rating.
Along with the drill, you will need several drill bits. A drill bit is the attachment 23
■ TOOLS
you insert in the drill to make the drill useful. Without drill bits, a drill is nothing more
than a switched motor.
There are several different types of drill bits. Table 1.1 shows you an example of
the most popular types of drill bits used in modding, their names, and their uses. Most
often, drill bits come in different sizes, so it should be noted what size bit is needed for
a particular job when working with drill bits. For example, if you need to drill a 1/8″
diameter hole, you’ll need a 1/8″ diameter drill bit.
Table 1.1: Drill Bits

Picture Name Description and Common Use
Standard metal bit Drilling holes in metal.
Standard wood bit Drilling holes in wood. Not normally used for
modding. Do not use on metal.
Steel step bit Made for drilling perfectly round holes. Multiple
sizes with only one bit.
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My Favorite Drill
I’ve owned several portable drills in my lifetime, and my favorite has to be my DeWalt. DeWalt
makes extremely tough and long-lasting tools. After several years of trusty use, it finally gave up
the ghost, but I had worn the handle grip off, the battery clip had broken (when I left it on a lad-
der and it fell), it had various other problems, and it still worked! It only stopped working after the
motor burnt out while I was drilling through a railroad tie (8″–10″ thick!). I have since replaced it
with a Bosch, but I liked my DeWalt better.You may a spend few bucks more, but you’ll thank your-
self. Check out their tools at www.dewalt.com.
Nibbler
The problem with using a Dremel to cut metal is heat distortion. You are essentially
using an abrasive wheel to scratch your way through the metal. Because of friction, this
24
produces a large amount of heat. Pieces cut with a Dremel get very hot, which causes
them to expand. Unfortunately, these pieces may not always shrink back to their origi-
nal size, which causes them to warp. You’ll know this has occurred when a part of the
case you are cutting is slightly warped and “pops” back and forth. This problem is
called oil canning, and the best way to solve this problem is to avoid it to begin with.
You can avoid it by using a low friction way of cutting. One way is to use avia-
tion shears, but they can’t always get into tight spaces and aren’t the most elegant to
use. The other is to use a nibbler. There are both hand nibblers and power (usually
pneumatic) nibblers (an example of which is shown in Figure 1.16). Nibblers work as
their name suggests, taking very small “bites” out of the metal. They have a cutter pis-
ton that goes up and down against a solid metal die that makes the bites. This method
produces very little distortion and can make very curved and wavy cuts. The downside
1: CHAPTER
is that they require a fairly large starting hole to get the cut started when starting in the
middle of a panel (like for a window).
Figure 1.16 A pneumatic nibbler

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Note: The pneumatic version requires an air compressor to run it, so if you don’t have one, that option for
cutting is out.They do make electric nibblers, or of course, the hand nibbler (but be prepared for some strenu-
ous hand exercise).
As you can see in Figure 1.17, the nibbler cuts nice smooth holes for windows
and such. They may need a bit of cleanup (as in filing the edges completely smooth),
but they make the nicest, distortion-free holes. To make the hole, first mark out the
hole you want to make (preferably with a scribe). Then, drill a hole large enough to
insert the nibbler. Insert the nibbler, turn it on, and start your cut. You’ll be able to
make sweeping curves and turn on a dime. But you’ll only be able to cut material as
thick as the nibbler’s die will allow.
25
■ TOOLS
Figure 1.17 Making a hole with a nibbler
Power Shear
Another option for cutting metal without producing a large amount of heat is the power
shear A power shear works much like the hand-powered aviation shears, but it’s powered
with a motor instead. Also, unlike aviation shears, there is a center cutter that moves up
and down with two dies on the outside. Thus, when cutting with a power shear, you’ll
actually be removing a strip of metal. This metal usually curls up and out of the way
leaving a nice smooth edge (unlike the slightly scalloped edges of the nibbler).
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Making a hole with the power shear requires a fairly large starter hole (enough
to get the cutter and dies inside, possibly up to 1.5–2″ in diameter). Plus, you won’t be
able to make the tight corners like you would with a nibbler, but the finish work is less.
Note: There are both pneumatic and electric versions of the power shear.
Soldering Iron or Gun

When you need to join two wires together, most likely you’ll use a soldering iron or
gun. You could crimp the wires together with mechanical connectors, but a soldering
device is more professional and higher quality than crimping.
A soldering iron is a small, pencil-like device that is best used for soldering small
wires (like those running to LEDs and case-front switches). It doesn’t put out much heat,
26 but it does work sufficiently well for the small wires. Once you plug it in, it’s turned on.
A soldering gun, on the other hand, does the same job but can put out more
heat and is turned on and off with a trigger switch. It is most often used for soldering
thicker wires (like the power wires inside a case).
Warning: Some solders contain lead, which is known to be harmful. Follow appropriate safety precau-
tions (don’t inhale solder fumes, etc.) when using solder.
Procedure: How to Solder

1: CHAPTER
This procedure outlines one of the most critical skills you need to master when doing computer
modding. Soldering is the process of joining two or more wires together using solder (a compound
of tin and lead).
Items Needed
• Soldering iron or gun
• Rosin-core solder
Procedure Steps
1. Plug in soldering iron or gun.
2. Cut piece of appropriately sized heat-shrink tubing to fit.
Continues
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Procedure: How to Solder (continued)

3. Twist wires to be soldered together as shown.
4. Place soldering iron underneath connection and heat connection.
27
■ TOOLS
5. Apply solder to connection until it melts. Do not melt solder on the iron and let it drip onto
the connection.That will produce a poor quality connection.
6. Remove iron and let the connection cool
7. When connection is sufficiently cool, slip heat-shrink tubing over connection. Heat tubing
with a flame until it shrinks around solder joint.
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Note: If you are soldering a connector to a wire instead of two wires together, you should “tin”the wire
and connector before joining them.Tinning means applying a bit of solder to both the wire and connector (by
heating them, then applying the solder to the hot connector or wire) so that they go together easier and form
a better connection.
Hot Glue Gun

As its name suggests, the hot glue gun produces hot glue by melting glue sticks. The
glue then sets as it cools. It is useful for gluing plastics to plastics and can be found in
hobby or craft stores. The guns come in two types, low temperature and multitemp
(based on the types of glue sticks that can be used in it).
28
Note: We’ll discuss glues and adhesives later in this chapter.
Other Specialized Tools

Now that you’ve learned about the most often used tools and the “must haves,” let’s
discuss some of the “nice to haves.” These tools make case modding easier and pro-
duce a more professional-looking result. The tools I would put into this category
include:
• Drill press
• Air compressor
• Spray gun
1:
• Bending brake
CHAPTER
• D/A sander
• Laser or water jet cutter
Drill Press
A drill press is a tool with a powerful motor and a bit holder that moves up and down.
While a hand drill works just fine for most drilling projects, whenever you need to
make a hole, a drill press will help make holes that are lined up, nicely rounded, and
on center. This is because the drill bit and drill are perfectly aligned with the piece
being drilled. Plus, the press can be set up to drill to the same depth each time, making
repetitive holes easier to make with more consistency.
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Air Compressor
As its name suggests, an air compressor is a tool that takes in air and compresses it for
storage at a higher pressure. This high pressure air is used to run various tools like spray
guns, sanders, grinders, and so on. There are many different sizes of air compressors,
each for a different purpose, from the small ones designed to run a single tool, to
large multicylinder ones that supply air to an entire shop. If you do get one, get one
that fits your needs with a little room for expansion. If you are going to do any kind
of painting, buy one that is rated as a two-stage compressor. A two-stage compressor
compresses the air twice and can keep up with the air demands of a spray gun.
Note: If you use an air compressor a lot for paint spraying, you may want to invest in a good water trap
(especially if you live in an area with lots of humidity). It will dry the air out and prevent large droplets of
water from getting onto your fresh paint job.
29
■ TOOLS
Spray Gun
Most of you will be using aerosol cans when painting cases. However, some of you
may have access to automotive paint. In that case, you are going to need a spray gun.
Spray guns use air to atomize the paint and force it out a nozzle in a fine mist. This
mist is directed at the surface you want to paint. Spray guns can lay down more paint
in a single pass than aerosol cans do. I believe you can get a much better result and
more durable paint job with a spray gun than with an aerosol can.
There are different types of spray guns (HVLP versus conventional, suction feed
versus gravity fed) and I could spend pages on painting equipment and the subtle dif-
ferences between them. Instead, I’ll summarize the general rules to follow if you are
going to use a spray gun:
• Don’t spend less than $150 on a spray gun. You do get what you pay for, espe-
cially here.
• Buy a gravity feed gun over a suction type. They just work better.
• HVLP guns work better than conventional guns, but they require a larger com-
pressor and are more expensive.
• Brands to look for: Sata, Devilbiss, Sharpe, and Binks are the most popular and
widely used brands.
If you want to do some research, check out Sharpe’s website at www.sharpe1.com.
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Note: We’ll cover paint application in more detail in Chapter 8,“Painting.”
Some of the most talented case mod artists use an airbrush. An airbrush is essen-
tially a much smaller version of a spray gun, with much finer control. Instead of spray-
ing on large coats of paint, an airbrush is used for painting lines, fades, and other
patterns of colors.
Note: If you plan on doing a lot of painting, you may want to look into a small paint hood or booth.These
items pull paint fumes away from you and filter them out of the air. Plus, they keep overspray to a minimum.
Bending Brake
30
The bending brake is another item that could be considered a luxury, but when doing
any kind of case metal work, I consider it a requirement. You can buy small benchtop
models for under $100, and they make cleaner bends than bending it by hand or in a
vice. A bending brake is a tool for making clean bends in sheet metal. It is very useful
when you have to fabricate sheet metal items for a case (or fabricate an entire new
case). A cast metal clamp holds the sheet metal in place and a pivoting table bends up
to bend the entire length of the piece at one time. Bends made with a brake are crisp
and clean. Figure 1.18 shows an example of a sheet metal brake I bought for $40 from
Harbor Freight.
1: CHAPTER
Figure 1.18 A sheet metal brake

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D/A Sander
If you have an air compressor, one of the first tools you should be considering is a
dual action (D/A) sander. It is the best sanding tool out there for sanding metal and
preparing it for painting. It sands in a circular motion while spinning (hence the “dual
action”). It can remove material quickly and easily, much faster than hand sanding.
The sandpaper usually has an adhesive backing that sticks to the large circular sand-
ing pad and can be quickly replaced while working. Figure 1.19 shows an example of
a D/A sander.
31
■ TOOLS
Figure 1.19 A D/A sander
Note: If you don’t want to invest in an air compressor to run a pneumatic D/A sander, they do make elec-
tric D/A sanders as well.
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Laser or Water Jet Cutter

I put this particular tool in the book because it is extremely cool, and there are a few
case modders out there with access to high-dollar machining tools. The laser cutter
and water jet cutter are two examples of such tools. Essentially, they make extremely
detailed cuts in metal, wood, or plastic. They use a precision plotter system to move
the cutting head in exact patterns (usually only in two dimensions), and their kerf is
extremely small (less than 1/32″). The difference between the two is that one uses a laser,
the other uses a high-pressure stream of water to do the cutting.
Note: Even if you don’t have the megabucks to buy one of these tools, there are firms that specialize in
metal fabrication that will hire out their services. If you need something cut with this type of cutter, ask
around. One such case modder who does this is Bill over at MNPCTech (www.mnpctech.com).
32
Modding Chemicals
Hand and power tools aren’t the only tools used in modding. Many chemicals are used
as well. Although you could do modding without most of them, they sure make mod-
ding easier and quicker. The categories of chemicals include:
• Paints
• Glues and adhesives
• Solvents and cleaners
Paints
I’ve dedicated an entire chapter (Chapter 8) to painting and the types of paints, so I
1:
won’t go into too much detail here. However, paints are essentially coloring pigments
CHAPTER
in a sprayable or brushable base. The paints are categorized by the makeup of that
base. Acrylic lacquer, acrylic enamel, urethane, and polyurethane are different types
of paint bases, and I’ll refer to those more later.
Glues and Adhesives

Okay, you’re probably thinking to yourself, “Aren’t glues and adhesives the same
thing?” Not really, no. Both are bonding agents used to stick two things together
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semipermanently. However, glues are made from natural sources, whereas adhesives
can come from synthetic sources. Elmer’s white glue is a glue, and most epoxies are
adhesives. But most people don’t care and use the terms interchangeably whenever refer-
ring to some agent that sticks two things together.
When would you use adhesives while case modding? Constantly. I’m always
finding some wire that needs to be attached to the inside of the case bezel or some item
that needs to be attached to another item and screws and bolts just won’t work.
There are a few popular types of adhesive used when case modding:
• Hot glue
• Epoxy
• Goop
Hot Glue
Most people who have done crafts or have seen someone do crafts have seen hot glue.
If you’ve ever taken the front panel off of a PC case and looked at the wires coming 33
■ MODDING CHEMICALS
from the lights and switches on the front panel, they are usually held in with a dab of
hot glue. Hot glue (as mentioned earlier in this chapter) comes in two main types,
multitemp and low temp. High temperature glue (as its name suggests), melts at a
higher temperature and sticks better than the lower temperature glue. Low temp glue
melts at a lower temperature and is used for stuff that might be damaged by the higher
temps of the high temp glue. When modding, it’s best to use the high temp glue because
most items you’ll be using can’t be melted by the low temp glue.
I usually use hot glue for gluing wires out of the way when doing wire manage-
ment, or gluing LEDs in place into their respective holes. However, I’ve found many
uses for hot glue that you might not think of. It often works where other fastening
methods don’t.
The glue comes in sticks usually either 1/4″ or 7/16″ in diameter. The 1/4″ size (sold
in Wal-Mart or craft stores) is more common. You must have a hot glue gun that can
melt the high temperature glue sticks, so make sure that your glue gun and glue sticks
are compatible (check your glue gun’s manufacturer to be sure).
Warning: Hot glue is hot! It can burn your skin and continue to burn until it cools off.
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Epoxy
There are many epoxy adhesives out there, and they are all a two-part system: an A
part and a B part. Usually, you mix them in a 1:1 ratio (1 part A to 1 part B). Once
they are mixed, they harden in a matter of minutes and are almost always a permanent
bond. The only drawbacks to most epoxies is that they must be mixed before using and
once hardened, they can be a bit brittle.
The ideal use for epoxy adhesives is either when superior strength is needed or
conventional glues can’t be used (like when attaching things to metal).
Some epoxies come in dual syringes, and the proper amounts of A and B parts
are dispensed with a single push of the syringe.
Goop
One of the easiest adhesives to work with is Goop. That’s its name: Goop. It is a clear,
non-silicone-based adhesive and sealant. It comes in different types, each with a specific
34 formulation for a specific purpose. For example: when sealing leaks in water cooling
system, you might use Plumber’s Goop, because its made for that purpose.
I can’t tell you every use for it, but when you have a problem that no other glue
or adhesive can solve, try Goop.
Solvents and Cleaners

In addition to the other types of chemicals, a mod shop might have several solvents and
cleaners, which are used to dissolve and remove other chemicals and stains, such as
paint, glue, or residue. The solvents you will most likely use are paint solvents. Each
solvent is specific to the paint it is used for. However, lacquer thinner is one unique sol-
vent that I always keep around. It is a great universal solvent and removes wax, grease,
and other impurities from metal before painting. It will dissolve most paints though, so
1:
be careful when using it.

CHAPTER
Note: When mixing paint, you need to buy the solvent and hardeners specifically for the paint type
you are using.
Another solvent I use plenty of is wax and grease remover. I use it during the
painting process right before painting, to remove fingerprints and dust. It’s also a good
general purpose cleaner because it won’t damage paint. I generally buy a quality brand
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like 3M because you can depend on it working properly every time you use it. Or you
can use the wax and grease remover recommended by the paint manufacturer to ensure
compatibility.
Warning: These solvents and cleaners are all highly flammable and should be used in a well ventilated
area with no open flames or sparks. Also, if you are under 18 (or 21 in some areas), you may not be able to
purchase these chemicals.
Modification Prerequisites
Now that you have a handle on the tools required, you should think about a couple
more things before you begin your modding:
• Choosing a theme
35
• Purchasing parts
■ M O D I F I C AT I O N P R E R E Q U I S I T E S
• Disassembling an existing PC
Choosing a Theme
The best looking mods will always have some kind of theme throughout. That’s not to
say you can’t just add a window and a lighted fan and it won’t look cool. But if you
are going to make a major statement, pick a theme of some kind, and pick it before
you buy a single part or item for your mod. Your imagination is the only limit. That
way, when you need to pick parts, paint, or other items, you only have to ask yourself
if the parts fit within the theme you’re trying to pull off.
There are thousands of different case themes you can try, and I can’t really help
you choose one. That’s a very personal decision. Just pick something that you know
well and really like. That way, the case is an expression of your interests, and you will
know better what mods fits with the theme.
Purchasing the Needed Parts

What parts will you need to get started with your mod? Well, in addition to the typical
PC parts shopping list below, you may need several of what I like to call “theme pieces.”
These may be computer parts (lights, fans, and so on), or they may be special pieces that
need to be made or adapted from other sources. Decide what pieces you need and figure
4360c01.qxd 9/24/04 12:17 PM Page 36
out where you can get them. For example, when I did Project: Engine 18 (the fire
engine–inspired PC shown earlier in Figure 1.1), I needed a set of fire engine “cherry”
lights. Of course, they don’t make them for PCs, so I had to find something that worked.
I found a local toy store that had fire toys on clearance and bought a toy fire engine with
a siren and lights. I disassembled the toy and installed the lights, speaker, and small con-
troller board into Engine 18. My PC then had a siren and working cherries!
If you are building the PC from scratch (not modding an existing PC), you’ll
need the following items:
• Case
• Motherboard
• CPU with cooling system
• Memory
• Case fans
• Hard drive
36
• Video card
• CD/DVD drive(s)/burner(s)
• Power supply
• Keyboard and mouse
• Monitor
Note: We’ll discuss the more common PC mod parts in upcoming chapters.
Disassembling an Existing PC
1: CHAPTER
If you are modding your current PC instead of building a modded PC from scratch,
you’re going to want to disassemble the PC completely before you start your case mod.
I know, you’re thinking, “Why would I want to completely take my computer apart if
I’m only adding a light?” Well, for that particular example, it may not be necessary.
But for most examples that involve cutting the case or painting it, you’ll want to take
the delicate electronics out first.
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Note: This book assumes you know the basics of the construction of a computer. If not, refer to the A+
Complete Study Guide from Sybex for more information.The disassembly process is simply the reverse of
building it.
Make sure you have antistatic bags handy for the parts and a place in your work
area where the parts can be close by but protected from the dust, paint fumes, and
metal shavings you are going to make. This is because you will need to “mock up”—
place together to see if they fit—the parts from time to time to see if they fit within the
modifications you are making.
Modification Tips
The process of modding is something of a discovery process. As you become an experi-
enced modder, you will find your own ways of doing things that may produce better
37
results. And if you spend a lot of time online, you’ll pick up tips from different modding
■ M O D I F I C AT I O N T I P S
websites (like pimprig.com, gruntville.com, modthebox.com, and so on) and groups.
The following are a few of the best modding tips I can give you. I think just
about every modder would start with these tips and go from there:
• Have a plan
• Know your limitations
• Have a clean workspace
• Collect parts and tools beforehand
• Have fun!
Have a Plan
Having a plan is probably the one step that people overlook most often. Before you
pick up a Dremel or a turn a single screw, you should plan out your mod. What needs
to happen first and why? Usually, with a complete case mod, you should start by
choosing a theme (as discussed earlier), then follow this basic plan:
1. Perform the metalwork/fabrication (cut holes, and so on).
2. Install all computer hardware.
3. Disassemble the PC.
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4. Paint and detail.

5. Reassemble the PC.
6. Install computer components.
7. Install software.
8. Troubleshoot.
Note: Steps 1 and 2 often take place simultaneously, as do steps 5 and 6.
Know Your Limitations

Not everyone can do every kind of mod their first time. It’s unrealistic to expect that
your first mod will be as good as someone who’s been modding for years or has done
multiple mods. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try new mods. Just know your limita-
38
tions. If you aren’t comfortable painting, have someone help you the first time around.
Ask them questions and learn from them so the next time you can do it on your own.
If you don’t have the tools to do a mod properly, either borrow the tools from
someone (make sure you return them), or find a friend with a shop who has them.
Have a Clean Workspace

Its always easier to work in a clean workspace than a cluttered one. So if you’re not
using a part or tool, put it away. It’s better than getting a part dirty (especially the elec-
tronic ones), and you will avoid component damage that way.
Plus, it’s easier to find your tools when you put them away in their place. I
always try to have a particular place for each tool I use to keep the shop organized.
1:
Collect Parts and Tools Beforehand

CHAPTER
It’s always easier to have as many of the parts as you think you need brought together
before you start. That way, if you need to see if a part will fit, you’ll have it on hand.
Plus, it will make mocking up the final design easier. It’s very frustrating to almost fin-
ish a project and realize that you don’t have the one part you need to finish it off, and
you have to wait three days for FedEx or UPS because no one in town has the part.
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Have Fun
Probably the most important part of modification is to remember why you are doing it
in the first place: to have fun and have a cool computer, different from everyone else’s.
If you get stressed and something isn’t working right, take a break.
Above all, have fun! Welcome to the world of PC modding.
39
■ M O D I F I C AT I O N T I P S
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4360c02.qxd 9/23/04 11:00 AM Page 41
Basic Modifications
Now that you’ve learned the basic tools, what to
be wary of, and the who, what, and why of case
modification, it’s time to learn how to install
some actual mods. However, these mods could
be considered the most basic mods. They don’t
seem like much, but they can really add quite a
bit to the overall look of your mod. Although 41
2
■ B A S I C M O D I F I C AT I O N S
they may not be exciting or groundbreaking,
they are a good starting point for most modders.
In this chapter, you’ll learn how to do some of these

basic visual PC mods, including lights and decals.
Chapter Contents
Lighting
Decals
Cable Management
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Lighting
Lighting is possibly the single most dramatic improvement any modder can add to a
case. At LAN parties (especially those where the lights are turned down) this is insanely
noticeable. I like to go around and look at the different ways people use their lighting
inside and outside their cases.
PC lighting comes in many different forms, including:
• LEDs
• Neon
• Cold cathode
• EL tape
• EL wire
• UV lights
42
Note: Wondering where you can get some of these lights and mod parts? Try your local computer
B A S I C M O D I F I C AT I O N S ■
store—they might have some in stock or an idea where to get some. Even better, try an online retailer like
www.xoxide.com.
LEDs
Every computer today has a few lights, usually indicators that tell you whether or not
2: CHAPTER
the computer is on or that blink every time the hard drive is accessed. These lights are
known as light emitting diodes (LEDs). LEDs are cheap, simple to use, and nice look-
ing. However, they don’t usually put out a lot of light, which makes them ideal for
accent, pinpoint, and indicator lights, but not for primary case lights (we’ll discuss
those later). There are some high-powered LEDs used for case lighting (often called
Lazer LEDs). Figure 2.1 shows a couple of LED examples.
Figure 2.1 Two LED examples

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There are two ways of buying LEDs, prepackaged and bulk. A prepackaged LED
means that the LED is contained in a mounting fixture of some kind (usually plastic) and
contains a resistor so that you can hook it directly to +5V or +12V (the voltages supplied
by your power supply to run internal components). Bulk LEDs are just the LEDs them-
selves with bare leads. This type of LED is often bought in bulk quantities (hence the
name) and can be soldered to a circuit board or inline with wiring.
LEDs are rated by several different criteria:
Size Given in millimeters (mm). Most common LEDs are 3mm and 5mm LEDs, but
they range in size from 1.4mm to 25mm.
Color Usually given as just the name of the color, but can also be given as an expres-
sion of the color’s wavelength in nanometers (nm). For example, a certain blue LED
gives off light with a wavelength of 468nm.
Power consumed Given in milliamps (mA). This is a measure of how much power is
consumed by a particular LED per second.
Brightness Given in microcandella (mcd), this is a measure of how much light is given 43
■ LIGHTING
off. The average LED that comes with a computer case (for power, HDD, and so on.)
is in the range of 300–700mcd. You can buy LEDs for modding anywhere from 300 on
up. “Ultrabright” LEDs are rated at around 3000–5000mcd.
Working (or Forward) Voltage (Vf) Given in volts (Vdc). This is the voltage that drives
the LED and is often expressed in a range from minimum (it’ll just light) to maximum
(you’ll probably blow it if you go higher).
I’ll get started by teaching you the proper way to wire LEDs.
LED Wiring and Resistors

The relationship between LEDs, voltage, and resistors and how to use them to wire
LEDs in a computer is an important concept to understand when working with LEDs.
Let’s say you want to add a set of LEDs that just turn on when the system is powered
up (say the eyes of some figure on the side of a case). These LEDs can be wired in sev-
eral different ways, and you have to understand how LEDs must be wired before
installing them or you could burn them out when you turn them on the first time.
One basic concept to understand first is the purpose of the different connectors
of the LED, the anode and cathode leads. These are the two wires coming out of the
LED in Figure 2.2 and are the power leads for the LED. The anode (positive) side has
a longer wire and should be connected to power. The cathode (negative) lead is the
shorter wire and should be connected to a ground wire inside the system.
4360c02.qxd 9/23/04 11:00 AM Page 44
Very thin electrical conductor
Plastic Diffuser
Light emitting semiconductor material
44
Cathode (negative terminal)

Anode (positive terminal) Figure 2.2 An LED diagram
To wire LEDs properly, you must understand the relationship between supply
voltage, working voltage, current, and resistance. For example, let’s say you need to
wire two LEDs. Both LEDs are 5mm and red (wavelength 660nm), have a 5000Mcd
2:
brightness and a Vf between 1.9 and 2.2Vdc, and consume 36mA of power.
CHAPTER
The problem is that most PC power supplies put out either +5 or +12Vdc
on the accessory power connectors. If you wire these LEDs directly to either power
source, you’ll fry the LEDs. You must install a resistor in series with each of the
LEDs. Figure 2.3 shows an example of a resistor.
Figure 2.3 A resistor

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A resistor resists the flow of electricity. How much resistance it gives depends
on the rating of the resistor and how it’s used. Resistors are rated in ohms (indicated by
the symbol Ω). The greater the number of ohms, the higher the resistance. But there’s
another issue here. Resistors are so small, it’s impractical to print the resistance on the
resistor during manufacture, so they came up with a color coding system. Colored
bands indicate the resistance and the accuracy, or tolerance, of the resistor. Now, you
can either buy a resistor with the exact resistance you need, or you can buy them in
bulk and figure out the color code. For simplicity’s sake, just buy the resistor you need.
Note: If you want to know the color code, Radio Shack sells a cheap pocket guide to the resistor color cod-
ing for two or three bucks. It’s worth it if you want to save money by buying resistors in bulk.
Back to the example. You need to figure out how big a resistor to install in series
with your LEDs. Here’s where your high school physics and math comes in. The formula 45
■ LIGHTING
to use is
Vs – Vf
= R
I
Or, in English:
Supply Voltage – Working Voltage

= Resistor Value
Current Draw
Think about it a minute. The LEDs don’t consume more than 2Vdc. It would
make more sense to power them off the +5Vdc lead, but you still need the resistor. So,
if your working voltage is 1.9Vdc (I always use the minimum value to be safe) and
your current draw for each LED is .036 amps (36 milliamps), you’d end up with:
5Vdc – 1.9Vdc
= 86.12 Ω
.036 Amps
As things go, 86 ohms is a pretty small resistor. Because you used the minimum
value on the voltage, you could probably get away with using a resistor between 80
4360c02.qxd 9/23/04 11:00 AM Page 46
and 90 ohms and not blow anything. But, if your values hold true, you’re going to
want to buy two 86-ohm resistors and wire your two LEDs like so:
LED LED
46
Resistor Resistor
To Ground
To +5Vdc
2: CHAPTER
Note: There’s a handy online guide to figuring this out as well. Check here: http://www.eatel.net/
~amptech/elecdisc/led.htm.
Note: If you are only replacing the LEDs that come with your case for power and HDD activity, make sure
that the new LEDs have a Vf greater than the output of the motherboard header pins for those LEDs (or that
you match the Vf for the case LEDs you are replacing).You should be able to find this information either on
your motherboard’s documentation or from the case manufacturer.
Mounting LEDs
Packaged LEDs usually come with their own mounting methods. You can simply read
the instructions that come with it and figure out how to install them. If it’s a single
LED in a carrier with a resistor, most often you just drill the appropriate sized hole and
4360c02.qxd 9/23/04 11:00 AM Page 47
push the LED in (there are usually little tabs that will hold it in place). Or, if it’s one of
the Lazer LEDs, they have a mounting foot and are designed to be mounted on a sur-
face with an adhesive pad. To mount those, remove the protective sheet from the adhe-
sive pad and stick the LED inside or outside the case, wherever you want it.
However, if you are installing bulk LEDs, you’ll have to approach this a bit dif-
ferently. First of all, you’ll have to wire up all your resistors for your LEDs as discussed
earlier (and solder them together, of course).
Then, you must drill a hole in whatever surface you are mounting the LED to
(assuming you want a typical mounting arrangement where the LED pokes through the
surface).
Finally, use a small dab of adhesive of some sort (hot glue works pretty well for
this particular application) to keep it in place.
Now, that’s the standard way of installing bulk LEDs. I’m sure that you’ll find
many different ways of installing LEDs into your case mods. Just make sure that you
use the proper resistor for the LEDs you choose to use, or use prepackaged LEDs.
47
■ LIGHTING
Neon Lights
The first technology you could use for general case lighting and to put a “splash” of
color inside of a case is the neon light. It uses the same technology as the neon “Open”
signs commonly found in storefronts. They are fairly bright and put out a lot of light.
Figure 2.4 shows an example of a neon light in case modding.
Figure 2.4 A neon light

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This figure shows the neon light fixture as well as the cabling that goes with it.
As shown, neon lights include a small boxy item known as an inverter. The inverter
takes the DC that is supplied by your computer’s power supply and changes it into
the alternating current (AC) of the precise voltage and frequency that the neon light
requires.
Also, some neon fixtures can be sound sensitive. That is, they contain small
microphones that listen to the ambient noise and then blink to the beat of any sound
they can detect. The sensitivity of this can be controlled with a small dimmer-type
device or with a switch.
To install a neon light into a case, first choose a suitable mounting location for
both the light and the inverter, such as the floor of the PC. Make sure that it’s clean
and won’t interfere with the operation of any of the other components of the PC. I like
to put the inverter behind the drive cage since I think the inverters are kind of ugly and
there’s usually enough room to do it.
48
2: CHAPTER
Warning: Do not stick the inverter or neon to any electronic component! It will
damage it.
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Some neon lights use Velcro pads on their mounting surfaces to make sure you
can remove the light, if necessary. Others just use the adhesive pads that will perma-
nently mount them. Either way, to mount the adhesive pads, remove the protective
sheet that covers the adhesive (you might have to pry it up with a fingernail).
Next, carefully place the neon light exactly where you want it. You only get
one chance, so locate it precisely where you want it, then press down firmly to set
the adhesive.
Note: If your lights have Velcro mounting pads (as many do), it’s best to leave the Velcro halves stuck
together while mounting the light to ensure proper position.
Once you have the light mounted, mount the inverter in the location you selected
earlier using the same method (there are usually adhesive pads for this included with
the neon). 49
■ LIGHTING
Finally, connect power to the neon using an available Molex power connector
from the computer’s power supply. When you turn the PC on, the neon should turn on
as well, assuming the power switch on the neon or inverter is on as well.
Note: If your neon light doesn’t include a switch to turn it off, you might want to install one on the power
(nonblack) lead on the DC (power supply) side of the inverter.That way you can turn the neon off if you don’t
want the bright light shining in your eyes at a LAN party.With the power off, cut the power lead, strip 1/2″ of
insulation from the wires and solder them to the switch.That’s it!
Cold Cathodes
The major drawback to neon lights is they are bulky and put off a good deal of heat.
In systems (especially overclocked ones) that are fighting to stay cool, this is a problem.
For this reason, cold cathode lighting was developed. Essentially a cold cathode is so
named because it runs a lot cooler (as well as a lot brighter) than a neon light of simi-
lar size. Most people that install lights these days install cold cathodes for their benefits
over the neon lights. Figure 2.5 shows an example of a cold cathode light.
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Figure 2.5 A cold cathode light
50
Note: Case modders that have been modding for a while may look back at the times before cold cathodes
as the “dark times.”(Forgive the pun.)
As with neon lights, cold cathode lights require the use of an inverter, which usu-
ally comes with the light. However, because cold cathodes draw lower power, manufac-
turers have developed inverters that can run two cathodes at once (called dual-capable
or dual-ready cathode kits). This invention resulted in two packaging schemes: you can
2:
buy cold cathodes with the inverter included (usually around $15–20) or without (called
CHAPTER
second cathodes, around $8–10). Just make sure you buy at least one cathode with a
dual-ready inverter before you buy a second cathode without.
As with neon, cold cathode lights come in a variety of colors, as well as styles
(sound sensitive, flashing, etc.), but their basic install remains the same. As a matter of
fact, it’s identical to installing neon. The only difference is that cold cathodes are usu-
ally long and slim (as you can tell from Figure 2.5), and you can mount them in places
neon won’t fit (like between the drive carriers and the outside lip of the case).
As with neon, choose your locations, remove the tabs from the adhesive (usually
Velcro), stick it to the case, mount the inverter, and connect the power.
Note: As with neon, you may want to wire up a switch that allows you to turn off your cold cathodes so
you don’t blind someone sitting next to you. It can be really annoying if someone has four cold cathodes in a
rainbow of colors and they can’t shut them off. Again, the switch should go on the power lead on the DC side
(the side that hooks to the power supply of the PC) of the inverter.
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EL Tape
Light tubes are not the only kind of lighting you can add to a PC. People are always
coming up with imaginative ways to illuminate their creations, and electroluminescent
(EL) products do that. These products work by applying an electric charge to special
chemicals that give off electricity when charged.
One of the most unique EL products is EL tape. EL tape contains two very thin
and flat electrodes (one clear, one opaque) with the EL compound in between. When
the charge is switched on and off rapidly, the tape gives off light through the clear
electrode. Often, the back of the EL tape has double-sided tape on it that allows the
tape to be stuck to just about anything to provide lighting. It’s fairly bright, comes in
several colors and widths (although 1/2″ is the most common), and is extremely flexible.
Figure 2.6 shows an example of EL tape.
Installing EL tape is fun because it’s flexible. However, you should know that
you can’t bend it in sharp 90° angles because it will break the electrode inside. You
should install it in gentle curves where possible. It’s really good at providing accent 51
■ LIGHTING
lighting around the inside of a case so light comes from all sides.
Like the other lights, EL tape uses an inverter, so when designing your case lay-
out, you must make room for yet another inverter.
Note: You can check out more information about EL tape at www.lighttape.com.
Figure 2.6 EL tape

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To install EL tape, you must first choose a location for the tape and the inverter.
Just like the other lighting, the location should be clean and not on any electronics, and
it should provide a way to either see the tape itself, or the light it generates.
Once you have chosen a location, remove the backing covering the adhesive, but
only for about 3″ or so (that way the tape won’t stick to itself while you are trying to
mount it).
Carefully stick the start of the tape to the location you have selected, ensuring
that the tape will form a straight line as you stick it down (it’s important to be neat
about it).
Once you have positioned it the way you like, pull off more backing and stick
down more of the EL tape. Continue this until all of the EL tape is completely installed
and no more of the backing remains. Voila! You have installed your EL tape.
EL Wire
As you may have guessed, EL wire (shown in Figure 2.7) is similar to EL tape. The
52
main difference, of course, is that instead of light coming from one side of the tape,
light from EL wire comes from 360° around the core of the wire.
EL wire consists of a thin, copper wire coated with the EL material (as in the
EL tape) and surrounded by a transparent conductor. Thus, you end up with the same
kind of arrangement as with EL tape (phosphorescent material between two conductors).
But EL wire is much more flexible than EL tape and thus much more usable because it
can bend into tight radii and follow even the tightest curves.
2:
Like the other lighting systems mentioned, EL wire uses an inverter and, like
CHAPTER
cold cathode lights, there are dual EL-wire systems available (two strands of EL wire
going to a single inverter).
Figure 2.7 EL wire

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Installing EL wire is a bit different from installing EL tape because of its flexibility
and the fact that it emits light in all directions around its circumference. Usually mount-
ing it to a surface is a matter of gluing it or sticking it to that surface in the shape you
want and securing it so that it doesn’t move.
One way of holding it in place is to use nylon cable ties (or zip ties, as they are
more commonly known) and mounting bases, as shown in Figure 2.8. Zip ties are made
of nylon plastic and are used to secure cables (or any other items that can fit within it)
tightly. When used with nylon adhesive-backed mounting bases, zip ties can organize
cables or any kind of wire (including EL wire) and affix them to a surface of almost
any kind.
You can also use dabs of hot glue or other adhesive to mount the EL wire to a
surface. Figure 2.9 shows an example of this mounting method. The major caveat here
is to make sure that whatever adhesive you are using doesn’t damage the EL wire.
53
■ LIGHTING
Figure 2.8 Using zip ties
and nylon mounting bases
to mount EL wire
Figure 2.9 Using glue to

mount EL wire to a surface
4360c02.qxd 9/23/04 11:00 AM Page 54
Once you have chosen the mounting point and mounted the EL wire, you must
choose a mounting point for the inverter, as with the other lighting systems. Then you
can connect power to the inverter, and the EL wire will light up when you turn on the
computer.
Some inverters for EL wire include controls for brightness and on and off switches.
Just check your EL wire’s packaging for instructions on installing these controls, if
present. If your inverter has these controls, you will probably want to drill mounting
holes for them to make them accessible from the front (or rear) panel and to keep them
from rattling about inside.
UV Lights
The types of lights already discussed come in a variety of different colors like red, blue,
and green. But a new color trend has emerged. No longer satisfied with just basic colors,
many people are buying special UV lights. These lights emit ultraviolet light (also called
black light) that causes fluorescent colors to glow with an almost eerie light. However,
54
the colors must be specially made to react to UV light in order to glow. If an item is
colored with pigments that react to UV light, the component is UV sensitive.

UV lights come in LEDs, neon, cold cathode, and other forms, and they mount
and install the same as a normal color would. The only major difference is that the
light from a UV light isn’t as bright as a normal color, but the intensity of the light
coming from the UV reactive components is very bright.
Other Light Types

2: CHAPTER
The kinds of lights I listed are the major types of lights used in modding today. How-
ever, there are variations on these lights you will see while shopping for modding parts.
For example:
LED fan lights These are combination case fans and lighting. The fan is a type of opaque
(almost clear) plastic with LEDs installed. When turned on, the lights shine into the
fan, illuminating it and the surrounding parts of the case. These are available in many
different styles.
Cold cathode fans These are also a combination of case fan and lighting but instead of
LEDs, they use a circular cold cathode light that is brighter than any combination
of LEDs.
LED tubes These resemble cold cathodes in appearance, but the tube is filled with sev-
eral small LEDs. These LEDs can be made to blink in or out of sequence, “chase” each
other, or stay solid. The visual effect is stunning.
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There are other types of lighting not listed here. You will find that choosing
lighting is one of the most exciting parts of the mod because it makes your case seem
more active and alive instead of being just a static object.
Note: With all of the different kinds of lights, remember that these are just the most common ways of
using lighting.The best part about modding is coming up with different ways of applying commonly used parts
to technology and vice versa.Use your imagination to figure out ways of using lights in new and different ways.
Decals
You’ve heard it before: “The devil is in the details.” The most important part of any
mod is not just doing the mod, but finishing of the details to make it truly spectacular.
Using decals is part of the detail work when modding.
55
A decal is simply a graphic that you can apply to your case. There are two
■ DECALS
main types:
Adhesive-backed This is simply a sheet of paper or vinyl with an adhesive backing and
protective sheet. You remove the protective sheet covering the adhesive and apply the
decal, working slowly so you don’t get air bubbles.
Water slide If you’ve ever made car models or airplane models as a kid, you should be
familiar with this type. The graphic is applied to a thin plastic sheet laminated to a
paper backing. To apply the graphic, soak it in water until the plastic separates from
the paper and floats. Then, spray some water on the surface that you are applying the
decal to. After that, you must lift the decal from the water and position it on the sur-
face where you want it. Finally, squeeze the water from underneath the decal using a
squeegee or sponge and allow it to dry in place.
You can obtain decals for your mods in many ways including:
• Kits
• Custom-made, including homemade
• Case wrap
Decals add that little extra something that makes a case truly stand out. Let’s
examine a few of the different ways of getting decals for your case mod.
Kits
You can buy decal kits from various online retailers, like Xoxide.com and others. Most
often, window appliqués come as decal kits that you install yourself on the window
(more on that in Chapter 3). Also, you can find decals made for car and airplane models
4360c02.qxd 9/23/04 11:00 AM Page 56
in model and hobby stores that you can adapt to your mod. You can also find them in
large chain stores like Wal-Mart, Target, Hobby Lobby, Michael’s, and the like in the
hobbies and crafts or model-making sections.
I’ve also used vinyl adhesive–backed graphics designed for car windshields, as
well as bumper sticker–type decals (like vinyl “flames” kits and so on) that you can
buy in those same stores.
Custom Made
Unfortunately, you may not be able to find the exact decal you need. If not, you need
to get creative and make your own decal. You can do this one of two ways: farm it out
or make it yourself.
Farmed Out Decals

There are many places that can make decals for your PC. Sign-making shops (like Sign-
Pro, Kinko’s, and others) can take your design and make a decal. You just need to give
56
them the art on disk that you want made into a decal, and they will print it onto adhe-
sive paper or vinyl and cut out the shape you want. This process is relatively expensive,
but it produces quality decals that won’t discolor or fall off. Some shops will even
make water slide decals.
Note: To find a place that will do this in your area, just look in the yellow pages under “graphics, vinyl.”
2: CHAPTER
Homemade Decals
You can make your own decals if you have a color printer. Avery (and other manufac-
turers) sell full-sheet labels in both paper and clear plastic. You can print your graphic
in color on these labels and then cut them out using a sharp knife or razor blade.
Presto! Instant decal.
Note: If you are going to make many graphics for your mod, don’t print out the decals until you know all
of the ones you are going to need.Then, lay them all out on one sheet of label paper with a program like
PaintShop Pro or Microsoft Publisher.That way, you don’t waste label paper (which is rather expensive if you
are going to use a whole sheet for one small graphic at a time).
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Case Wraps
One special type of decal is the case wrap. A case wrap is a very large decal that covers
the entire case. It usually has some kind of elaborate graphic on it that would be
expensive to have painted on the case. The case wrap is applied to the outside of the
case producing a stunning effect. Figure 2.10 shows an example of a case with a case
wrap applied.
57
■ DECALS
Figure 2.10 A case with a case wrap applied
Case wraps come in hundreds of different styles and colors. As I said before, you
should choose one that fits with the theme you have chosen for your case. If possible,
choose one that fits the color scheme of your theme and that complements the color of
your case.
Note: In my opinion, it’s always better to case wrap a black or brushed-aluminum case than a beige one.
It just looks better.
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Procedure: Applying a Case Wrap

Case wraps are a cheap, simple, and fast way to make your case stand out. As discussed, they are
made of a special, adhesive-backed vinyl that has graphics printed on it.
Items Needed
• Paper towels
• Masking tape
• Sharp knife (preferably a razor blade)
• Ammonia-based cleaning solution (like window cleaner)
• Any kind of sharp pin
• Hair dryer
Procedure Steps
58
1. Take your case and place it on a firm working surface, like a workbench or solid table.
2. Clean your case with an ammonia-based cleaner and let it dry completely.
3. Remove your case wrap from its shipping container and unroll it completely.
4. Place the case wrap on the case, centering it from side to side and front to back.
5. Secure it in place with masking tape on the top and sides of the case.
6. Place the case on its side and turn back about 6″ of case wrap.
2:
7. Remove the adhesive backing from about 4–6″ of case wrap to expose the adhesive, and
CHAPTER
trim off the backing with a sharp knife.
Continues
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Procedure: Applying a Case Wrap (continued)

8. Working from the center of the panel out, slowly put the case wrap down on the case, ensur-
ing that no bubbles of air are trapped under the wrap. If you do get a bubble, pull the wrap
back to the bubble and work out the air, then replace the wrap.
59
■ DECALS
9. Once you have this small section down, remove the masking tape securing the wrap to the
case.Then, working slowly and in small increments, remove the backing and smooth the case
wrap onto the case, again working from the center out. Use a folded paper towel to slowly
and firmly press the wrap onto the case surface. If you get a crease or bubble, pull the case
wrap back to the defect and re-apply.
Continues
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Procedure: Applying a Case Wrap (continued)

10. Turn the case over and continue applying the case wrap in this method until the entire case is
covered.
11. Using a sharp knife, cut along the lines of any openings or seams.Then, use your fingers to
round the edge of the cut over the edge of the opening.
60
12. If there are any air bubbles, use a pin to prick the center of it, then work the air toward the
hole from the outside in.
13. For depressions in the metal (like case side handles) use the hair dryer to relax the vinyl, then
work it into the depression.
2: CHAPTER
Note: You can watch a video of how a case wrap is installed at http://www.casewraps.com/
index.php?page=support.
4360c02.qxd 9/23/04 11:00 AM Page 61
Cable Management
Let’s face it. The inside of the average computer isn’t a pretty thing to look at. Part of
the idea of case modding is to make a case beautiful, as well as functional. To that end,
one of the things that must be addressed when modding a case (especially one with a
window in the side) is cable management. Cable management is the process by which
the internal cables in a computer are organized and made to look neat and tidy. This
has two major benefits:
Aesthetics The cables just look nicer. Instead of a bunch of knotted-up spaghetti, your
cables may not even be seen. Or if they are, they are neatly secured to the interior of
the case.
Airflow Tying the cables back neatly and away from the center of the case can produce
excellent airflow. The “spaghetti” mess of cables in most computers can hinder flow
and raise internal temperature. By managing the cables in your computer better, you can
reduce your CPU’s operating temperature, which can lengthen the life of your computer.
61
There are several techniques to manage cables. The most popular techniques
■ CABLE MANAGEMENT
include:
• Using rounded cables
• Using zip ties
• Using tie downs
• Sleeving cables
Using Rounded IDE cables

The largest source of airflow problems inside of a typical case is the flat ribbon cable.
IDE cables (assuming your system uses IDE instead of a technology like SATA) are
usually flat ribbon cables (as shown in Figure 2.11), and they take up a good amount
of room inside the case.
Then someone came up with a bright idea: why not separate the individual
conductors in the ribbon cable and bind them into a round cable to save space?
Many people did this on their own at first, with a razor blade, zip ties, and a lot
of patience.
This became a popular practice, but if you slipped with the razor blade, you
ruined the cable. Manufacturers caught on and came up with premade rounded cables
(also shown in Figure 2.11). These cables came with a polyvinyl sheath and extra-
strong connectors.
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Figure 2.11 Flat and rounded IDE cables
62
Note: The procedure for installing these is to simply remove your old IDE cables and install the new ones
in their place. Doing so will increase the amount of airflow in the case.
Using Zip Ties

Zip ties are a wonder of the plastics industry. They are compact, cheap, and very strong.
Plus, once they are secured, they do not come loose. This makes them ideal for manag-
2:
ing cables because you can secure cables out of the way and they will stay that way. Fig-
CHAPTER
ure 2.12 shows an example of a few different zip ties. Notice they come in different sizes
and colors (there are even UV reactive zip ties that glow when exposed to light).
Figure 2.12 Examples of zip ties

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Figure 2.13 Proper use of a zip tie
63
Zip ties are serrated on one side. To use a zip tie, choose one that has a length
slightly longer than the circumference of the bundle of cables or wires you are trying
to tie off. Wrap the tie around the bundle of cables once, then insert the pointed end
through the slot in the square end and pull tight. You should hear a zip as you pull
the cable through. Figure 2.13 shows a zip tie installed. Notice how the tie is oriented.
Note: If you install the zip tie upside down, the zip tie won’t make the zip sound, and it’ll pull out. If that
happens, just pull it out, unwrap the bundle of cables, flip it over, and redo.
Popular Uses of Zip Ties

When I’m managing cables inside a modded case, zip ties are my friend. I use them
for keeping cables where I want them. You can zip tie any cable to the interior of the
case as long as you can get the zip tie around the cable(s) and some part of the case.
Figure 2.14 shows how cables can be made to hold their shape with zip ties.
Zip ties can also be used to force cables to stay straight or force them into a curve.
If you use many small zip ties spaced a couple inches apart, you can force a bundle of
cables to stay in any shape you want. Figure 2.14 shows how this looks. To do this, just
start with a single zip tie and secure it tightly at one end of the cables you are managing.
Then pull the cables tightly into the shape you want (curved or straight). Finally, secure
the cable tightly every few inches (closer together in bends).
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Figure 2.14 Using zip ties to

manage power cables
Note: These are only a couple uses of zip ties.You will find as you do more case modding, that you will
have hundreds of uses for them.
64
Note: If you don’t have a single zip tie long enough to go around a bundle of cables, you can insert the tip
of one into the tail of the other and make a double zip tie.
Using Tie Downs

2:
A tie down (see Figure 2.15) is anything used to secure a cable (or cables) to some sur-
CHAPTER
face. Usually a tie down is made of plastic, with a hooking mechanism that is secured
to a plastic, adhesive-backed plate.
Figure 2.15 A typical tie down

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Tie downs are used to mount cables to a specific place inside a case (usually a
flat surface that can’t be zip tied to). They have been used for years to secure many dif-
ferent types of cabling to almost every kind of flat surface. They come in various sizes
to accommodate different numbers and types of cables. There are even flat adhesive
pads with slots in them (as in Figure 2.16) that can be used with zip ties to hold cables
to any flat surface.
I like to use tie downs when managing a large number of cables near the back of
the case (like extra power supply cables). All you need to do is open the tie down’s clip,
insert the cable(s), then push the tie down’s clip closed until it locks. Figure 2.17 shows
a tie down holding a bunch of cables.
65
Figure 2.16 Tie downs for use with zip ties
Figure 2.17 Using tie downs to manage cables

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Sleeving Cables
One of the newest trends in case modification is to sheath, or sleeve all of the cables.
Sleeving is the process of encasing wires (usually power supply wires) in a colorful plas-
tic sheath. Case modders do this primarily to make the cables look less like cables and
more like pieces of an overall theme. Sleeving adds a certain professional look to a case
mod because the wiring looks less like spaghetti and more like the wiring inside of a
computer. Figure 2.18 shows an example of a case that has had its cables sleeved.
66
2:
Figure 2.18 A case with sleeved cables

CHAPTER
Note: It is possible to buy power supplies with presleeved power cables.
It is not a requirement to sleeve your cables, but it does make the wiring inside
the case look better. Sleeving also has the perceived benefit of disrupting internal case
airflow less (although that has yet to be proven conclusively).
Let’s begin our discussion of the sleeving process by discussing the sleeving itself.
Choosing the Sleeving

The sleeving itself is a woven plastic sheath (as shown in Figure 2.19) that comes in
many different sizes and colors. It is the same kind of sheath used to sleeve automotive
wiring harnesses and cooling hoses. It can be obtained from many sources, including
your local auto parts stores and online vendors like Xoxide. It comes in many sizes,
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which are listed by the internal diameter when the sheathing is relaxed. If you push
the ends of the sheath together, the sheath will get larger in internal diameter (so it
can be slipped over connectors, etc.); 1/4″ sleeving is used for the power wires that go to
devices, and 1/2″ sleeving is used for the main ATX motherboard connection wires
(which is a larger bundle of wires).
67
Figure 2.19 Cable sleeving
Removing Connector Pins

If you want to sleeve the power cables of your system, you will have to start by remov-
ing the cable and pins from their plastic connectors. This will allow the sheathing to
slip over them much more easily. This process is known as depinning the connectors.
Note: Although it is possible to install sleeving without removing the connectors, it is much easier to do it
when you do remove them—and there is less of a chance of ripping the sheathing.
There are four types of connectors used with power supplies today. They are
commonly known as:
• Molex
• Floppy
• ATX Power
• ATX P4 12V
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In addition to these types, there may also be an extra connector for AT mother-
boards so that the power supply can be somewhat universal for AT and ATX
motherboards, but the process is the same for removing its pins as with the other
types here.
The Molex power connector is the most common power connector in your com-
puter. It connects power to things like fans, CD-ROM drives, hard drives, and so on. It
contains four sockets and usually has four wires: one red, two black, and one yellow
(although some are designed to be used only for fans and have only the yellow and one
black wire). Figure 2.20 shows an example of the Molex connector.
The Molex connector is keyed so you can’t connect the power connector upside
down. In Figure 2.20, note the relationship of the colored cables to the connector so
they can be reinstalled correctly.
68
Figure 2.20 A Molex connector

2: CHAPTER
Note: Power supplies have multiple strings of power leads, called rails. Each rail will have multiple Molex
connectors, often ending in a floppy connector (discussed next).To sleeve power cables properly, you will have
to remove multiple connectors before installing the sleeving.
Note: Since you are going to put the Molex connectors back on after sleeving, you might want to consider
either painting your Molex connectors or buying some UV-reactive ones. It makes for an exciting power
arrangement!
Floppy power connectors are called that because they are most often used to
power floppy drives. They may also be used to power video cards and small accessory
drives. The connectors are similar to Molex connectors in that they have the same four
4360c02.qxd 9/23/04 11:00 AM Page 69
wires, but floppy connectors are physically much smaller. Figure 2.21 shows an example
of a floppy connector. These are often found at the end of a power rail.
Figure 2.21 A floppy power connector
Procedure: Removing the Pins from a Molex Connector 69
Before you sleeve a power supply’s power cables, it is necessary to remove the pins on the power
Molex connectors (and most of the connectors on a power supply are Molex).This procedure is
known as “pinning” the power supply.
Items Needed
• Pin removal tool (or straight piece of wire)
Procedure Steps
1. Note the location of the wires in the Molex connector.
2. Using the pin removal tool (or straight piece of wire), push in the tabs inside the connector
that hold the wire and pin in place.
3. Gently pull the wire and pin out of the connector. If it doesn’t come out, make sure that one
of the internal tabs isn’t hung up inside the connector.
4. Repeat with the other three wires in the connector.
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Procedure: Removing the Pins from a Floppy Power Connector

As with Molex connectors, when sleeving a power supply, you must first remove the pins from the
floppy power connector(s).
Items Needed
• Pin, wire, or other sharp, solid tool
Procedure Steps
1. Locate the flat pins shown and push them down with the pin or sharp tool while at the same
time gently pulling on the wire attached to that pin.
70
2:
2. Remove the pin from the connector.

CHAPTER
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the other wires until all the wires have been removed.
Note: Make special note of the order of the wires so you can reinstall them correctly.
ATX (and some other compatible types) motherboards and their components get
their power from the ATX power connector coming from the power supply. This con-
nector (shown in Figure 2.22) has multiple power leads coming from it. As you can see,
if you are removing the ATX power connector pins, it is especially important to note
the location of each wire so that it gets put back properly and you don’t accidentally
fry your motherboard. The ATX connector has a clip on one side, so if you need to,
you can reference the wire’s locations to the clip side.
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The removal of the ATX power connector’s pins is done in the same fashion as
for Molex connectors, but instead of 4 wires and pins, there are 20 to remove, so it
will take some time.
The final connector that you will want to remove the pins for is the special 4-pin
connector most often called the ATX P4 12V connector. The pins are arranged in a
square (unlike the Molex connector, which has its pins all in a row). Figure 2.23 shows
an example of this connector.
The pins for this connector are also removed in a similar fashion to the Molex
connector. Just make sure to note the position of the various wires so they can be rein-
stalled correctly. Just like the standard ATX power connector, this connector has a clip
on one side.
71
Figure 2.22 An ATX power connector
Figure 2.23 An ATX P4 12V connector
Note: It is possible to find all of these power connectors in various colors, as well as UV reactive ones that
are very alien-looking!
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Installing the Sleeving

Now that you have removed the power connectors, you can install the sleeving onto
your cables. It is a fairly simple process and only requires a few steps, but you must
have patience to ensure a professional-looking job. You should know that it will take
some time to do this process properly, so be patient and take your time.
The basic procedure is essentially putting the sleeve on, then fastening it into
place. However, because the plastic sleeving is slippery, it is best to secure it using two
methods: zip ties and heat shrink tubing. You already know about zip ties, but heat
shrink tubing is another fastening method. Essentially, it’s a sleeve made of a special
material that shrinks when you heat it. Since it’s flexible, it will shrink around the
wires, sleeving, and zip tie all at once, leaving a clean end. Figure 2.24 shows a wire
that has been sleeved, zip tied, and shrink wrapped.
You can use any heat source to shrink the tubing into place. I like to use one of
the long-tipped lighters made for lighting camp stoves (just be careful not to singe the
72 wires or the sleeving). You could also use a heat gun, but they’re more expensive and
not everyone has one. A hair dryer set on its highest setting works best, if the dryer can
put out enough heat.
2: CHAPTER
Figure 2.24 A properly sleeved and shrink-wrapped

cable end.
Reinstall Pins
After you have installed the sleeving on all of the power cables and secured it with the
heat shrink tubing, you are ready to finish the installation by reinstalling the pins you
removed earlier into their connectors. All you need to do is make sure the little tabs on
the pins are spread out (as shown in Figure 2.25) and push them back into the power
connector so they stick in place. That’s it. Just make sure you get the right colored wire
in the right hole (as discussed earlier).
Note: When you’ve got a pin installed, give the wire a light tug to make sure the pin won’t fall out of
the connector.
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Figure 2.25 Proper orientation of power connector pins prior to install
Procedure: Installing Sleeving on Power Cables

The cables coming from a power supply are gnarled and nasty-looking, so a very attractive alter-
73
native is to put the cables into their own sleeving.
Items Needed
• Sleeving (appropriate size)
• Heat shrink tubing (same size as sleeving)
• Scissors
• Phillips screwdriver
• Small zip ties
• Heat source (hair dryer on high, heat gun, or open flame)
Procedure Steps
1. Disconnect power to the computer and remove the power supply from the computer’s case.
2. Allow the power supply to rest for about 20–30 minutes so the internal capacitors can dis-
charge and you can avoid being shocked.
3. Remove all the connectors from the set of wires you are going to sleeve (as discussed in ear-
lier procedures).
4. Cut a length of sleeving equal to the distance between two connectors. If you are sleeving
the section between the power supply and the first power connector, use that measurement.
5. Slip the sleeving over the power cables and push it over the cables and connectors until you
have it in the right place (the place you just selected).You will need to push it a little at a
time, compressing it so it will expand, then releasing it in the direction you want it to go
(toward the power supply).With a little practice this will become easier.
Continues
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Procedure: Installing Sleeving on Power Cables (continued)

6. Cut two pieces of heat shrink tubing about 11/2″ long and place one at each end of the sleev-
ing. Make sure the shrink wrap doesn’t leave any sleeving ends exposed.They will show more
when the heat shrink tubing is heated.
7. Once the shrink tubing is positioned properly, heat the shrink tubing until it shrinks into
74 place, securing the sleeving in place.
2: CHAPTER
8. Repeat steps 3–7 for the other sections of the device power cables.
9. Perform the same steps for the ATX power supply motherboard cable, but before shrink wrap-
ping the sleeving, secure it in place with one zip tie at each end, about 1/2″ from the end of
the sleeving.
Continues
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Procedure: Installing Sleeving on Power Cables (continued)

10. Once you have sleeved all the power supply cables, reinstall the power connectors (or install
new ones).
75
11. Double check that all your wires are installed correctly.
12. Using a couple of large zip ties, tie the bundle of power cables together close to the power supply.
13. Install the power supply back into the computer.

14. Manage the new cables into an orderly arrangement so they are out of the way.
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4360c03.qxd 9/23/04 11:00 AM Page 77
Case Modification
The whole point of PC modification is to make a
computer that doesn’t look (or function) like any-
one else’s—to make it unique. The largest portion
3
of PC modification is the modification of the case
itself. These mods are the most visible and often
the most personally rewarding because you can
see the results immediately. 77
■ CASE MODIFICATION
Chapter Contents
Case windows
Premodded cases
Laptop modifications
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Case Windows
Most PCs are pretty bland on the inside. There’s not much to look at. Just bunches of
wires and some electronic circuitry. However, a modded PC is often a visual delight
inside. For this reason, if you are going to do case modding, one of the first mods you
should think about adding is a window to your case.
Windows are usually made of either Plexiglas or Lexan. Both are different types
of clear plastic that comes in different thicknesses, and both types work equally well as
case windows.
In this section, you will learn about the different window modifications that you
can make to a computer as well as how to do them.
Window Installation
If you have a plain case with no windows, it is very simple to add a window to it, and
it is probably the most popular mod that you can do. It is critical to have a window if
78 you have lights or any other visual modifications inside your PC.
CASE MODIFICATION ■
The installation of a window involves four main operations:

• Cutting holes
• Cutting Plexiglas to fit
• Installing gaskets
• Installing the window
3:
How you do these operations depends on the method you are using to install the
CHAPTER
window, the “quick and dirty” method or the “finished look” method. The quick and
dirty method is cheaper, simpler, and basically involves cutting a hole in the side of
the case and mounting the window behind it using screws, clamps, glue, or whatever
works. Figure 3.1 shows a window mounted using the quick and dirty method. A hole
is cut in the side panel, and the rough edges of the cut are smoothed over using car
door edge molding bought at a hardware store.
The finished look method of installing a window has a much more professional
look to it. In this method, you can cut a hole in the case and use a rubber gasket
to mount the window inside the hole. Figure 3.2 shows an example of this method of
mounting a window.
Note: The instructions that follow are general guidelines. If you are using a window kit, follow the
instructions that come with the kit.
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Figure 3.1 Example of quick and

dirty window mounting
79
■ CASE WINDOWS
Figure 3.2 Example of finished
look window mounting
Cutting the Window Hole

Before you can install a window, you must have a hole in your case to mount the win-
dow in. This involves cutting metal. You can cut this hole using one of several different
tools, including a Dremel with a cutting wheel or a nibbler. My personal favorite is the
nibbler, as it makes a fairly clean hole and it can make swoopy cuts in metal without
too much effort.
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Note: If you are going to paint your case as well as install the window, cut the window hole, then paint
your case. If your case is already painted, cover the entire panel with masking tape before cutting the hole to
avoid scratching the paint job.
To cut out the hole, you must first measure the size of window you are going to
install and mark the opening with a marker or pencil. If you are using a window kit,
the kit may even come with a pattern or template to use to mark the opening. If not,
measure the size of Plexiglas you are going to install, then add 1/8″ to both length and
width (1/16″ all around) so the hole will be bigger than the window you are installing.
Note: Make sure you leave enough room between the edge of the hole and the sides of the panel so the
gasket and window don’t interfere with the removal of the panel. I like to leave at least an inch and a half
80
between the window hole and the edge of the case to ensure a good fit.
You can make the Plexiglas bigger than the hole if you are going to not use a
gasket and will instead just cover the edge of the hole and mount the glass to the back-
side. Just make sure that there is enough room on the edge of the case so that the Plexi-
glas doesn’t interfere with the sliding of the case side (because that might make it
3:
difficult to open the case later). Figure 3.3 shows a panel marked and ready to cut.
CHAPTER
Figure 3.3 A case panel marked for a window and ready to cut.
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Note: Make sure your window and hole are cut with rounded corners because square corners will cause
the gasket to bunch up, and it won’t look right. Keep this in mind when laying out your window
Once you have marked the size and location of your window hole, it is time to
actually cut the hole into the metal. Since most cutting tools can’t start their own cut
in the middle of a sheet of sheet metal (like a case panel), you must first drill a starting
hole (there are four starter holes shown in Figure 3.4). The size of the hole should be
large enough to allow your cutting tool to start cutting right on the line you marked
out for the window.
Once you have your starter holes drilled, using whichever cutout tool you prefer
simply cut out the panel along the lines you have drawn. Figure 3.5 shows the hole
after it has been cut out. Once the hole is cut, you should clean it up with a file and
sandpaper to remove any burrs or sharp edges that might cut you or rip the window’s
gasket (or that may not look nice if you are using the quick and dirty method). 81
■ CASE WINDOWS
Figure 3.4 Starter holes drilled in a case panel

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Figure 3.5 A case window hole

82
Cutting Plexiglas to Fit

Now that you have the opening for the window, you are ready to cut the Plexiglas to
fit the opening you have just made. Remember that the Plexiglas has to be smaller than
the hole (by about 1/16″–1/8″ all around) if you are using a gasket, or larger than the hole
(by at least 1/4″ on all sides) if you are using the quick and dirty method.
3: CHAPTER
Note: If you are installing a window kit, this step won’t be necessary because the Plexiglas will have been
precut to fit. Also, the kit usually contains the proper dimensions for the hole to cut to fit the size of Plexiglas
contained in the kit.
You can cut Plexiglas in a couple different ways. One way is to use a Dremel
and cutting wheel to do the cutting. This works fairly well, but if the Dremel is set on
too high of a speed, it tends to melt the plastic instead of cutting it, and the heat may
cause the plastic to crack.
Note: If you can find it, buy Lucite for your window because it is a higher strength and quality plastic and
seems to be more resistant than Plexiglas to cracking and chipping.
Note: Use a blade specially made for cutting Plexiglas or Lucite. It makes the job easier.
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Another way to cut Plexiglas is to use the “score and snap” method. This
method works best for straight line cuts. To use this method, start by marking where
you would like the cut to be using a straight edge and a sharp knife (like a razor blade
or an X-acto knife). Repeatedly run the knife back and forth until the Plexiglas has a
continuous score mark where the cut should be (as shown in Figure 3.6).
Note: For the cleanest possible cut, score the Plexiglas on both sides—but make sure that the score
marks line up exactly.
83
■ CASE WINDOWS
Figure 3.6 Scoring a sheet of Plexiglas
in preparation for cutting
Note: The score and snap process works best for cuts where there will be large chunks of waste (for
proper leverage). If you need to remove only a small amount of material or the cut is oddly shaped, use the
Dremel instead.
Once the Plexiglas has been scored, place the Plexiglas on a solid surface (like
a table) and line the score up with the edge of the solid surface. Keep the part of the
Plexiglas that you want to keep (the “keep” side of the cut) on the solid surface itself,
supporting it. When you are ready, place your hand on the keep side, put your weight
on it, then bring your other hand down quickly onto the waste side of the cut, thus
snapping the Plexiglas in two (as shown in Figure 3.7). If it doesn’t work the first time,
try again.
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Figure 3.7 Snapping a piece of Plexiglas
84
Note: Once you have made the break, you can clean up the rough edges with sandpaper wrapped around
a sanding block. Or, if you have access to a belt sander, that works the best for shaping and smoothing Plexi-
glas edges. Just have a helper hold the belt sander steady while it’s running, then run the Plexiglas down the
belt. Or use a stationary belt sander.
3:
If you need to cut a square out of a small sheet of Plexiglas, just repeat the
CHAPTER
process for each of the sides.
Installing the Window Gasket

Now that you have your window cut out and the edges finished, it is time to install the
window gasket. If you are using the quick and dirty method, you won’t have a gasket on
the window, but you may have edging to install. If that is the case, just cut the edging
to fit the opening and slip it over the exposed cutout of the window opening.
Note: This step is completely optional. If you have finished your cut properly with a file and sandpaper,
the edges should be smooth and look nice. Edging should not be needed and in some cases will make the
window look amateurish.
Assuming you are doing a finished look installation, you now need to install the
gasket onto the window glass. To begin, examine the gasket you have. If you look at a
cross section of the gasket (Figure 3.8), you’ll see it’s shaped like an H with differently
4360c03.qxd 9/23/04 11:00 AM Page 85
sized openings. The smaller opening slips over the metal of the window opening. The
side of the H with the larger opening is where the window fits in. There may also be
another triangular-shaped opening. This opening is for a special “locking strip” that
holds the window in place.
Note: Some window gaskets (also called weather stripping) have an integrated locking strip as opposed
to a separate one.
Each gasket is slightly different, but often it works best to install the gasket into
the window opening, then install the window. To install the gasket, slip the window
gasket’s larger opening over the edge of the window (Figure 3.9). Continue around the
window until you meet the other end of the gasket. Trim the gasket with a sharp knife
so that the gasket fits snuggly into the opening. I like to secure the ends together with a
bit of superglue (a very small amount). 85
■ CASE WINDOWS
Installing the Window
Now that you have the gasket on the window, you can install the window. Unfortu-
nately, there’s no easy way to do this. About the only hint I can give you is to start at
one corner and work your way around the window until the window is installed,
pulling the gasket into place as you go.
Figure 3.8 A cross section of a typical window gasket

4360c03.qxd 9/23/04 11:00 AM Page 86
Figure 3.9 Installing gasket onto

the window glass
Note: If you want an extra touch, you can slip some EL wire between the gasket and window (on the
86 inside lip).The wire will cause the glass to glow slightly. Just run the EL wire in the same channel as the glass.
Once you have the window installed into the gasket, you can secure it in place
by installing the locking strip. Each type of gasket is a bit different, but for the most
part, you just push the locking strip into its channel. This expands the rubber and
securely pushes it against the glass and metal to prevent the window from slipping out.
3:
Figure 3.10 shows how this is done.

CHAPTER
Note: If you are using the quick and dirty method, just use some silicone caulking or Plexiglas adhesive
(like Plumber’s Goop) to glue the window to the back of the case panel (but be careful not to get any on the
window). Set the panel aside until the adhesive dries.
Figure 3.10 Installing the window

gasket locking strip
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You are done installing the window. Congratulations. You have a nice, profes-
sional looking window installed, and you can see the beautiful lights you are going to
(or possibly already have) put inside the case.
Window Etching
In addition to having a cool window, sometimes the design of a case requires that the
window have markings of its own. That’s where window etching comes in. Window etch-
ing is the process of marking the plastic window on a modded case in a specific pattern
to match the theme of the case. Figure 3.11 shows an example of an etched window.
87
■ CASE WINDOWS
Figure 3.11 An etched window in a modded case
There are three main ways to get this effect:

• Mechanical etching
• Chemical etching
• Etching decals
Mechanical Etching
Mechanical etching is the process of using some kind of abrasive to scratch the glass
into a pattern, which is why it’s also called abrasive etching. The pattern can be just
about anything (although it’s a good idea if it matches the theme of the mod).
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To use mechanical etching, you must first mask off, or cover, whatever you don’t
want etched. I like to use full-page Avery labels for masking. These are a single piece of
paper with an adhesive backing (basically a large label) that you can run through your
printer and print your design onto. Just print your design on the label, stick it to the
window, and cut out the design using a very sharp hobby knife (razor blade or X-acto
knife). Figure 3.12 shows how to do this. Now, I like to print mine in mirror image
and put it on the back (inside of the case) side of the window to protect it from wan-
dering fingers and dirt. This has the added benefit of keeping the outside protected
until the window is ready to install.
Note: If you are going to put a fan cutout in the window, do that first, before you etch the window, just in
case you crack the window while drilling your fan mounting holes. By drilling first, you will avoid redoing
hours of etching work if the Plexiglas cracks.
88
3: CHAPTER
Figure 3.12 Cutting out an etching design
Once you cut out your design, mask the rest of the window with masking tape.
Make sure you completely cover the area to be masked. It’s a good idea to leave the paper
covering on the side of the window that you aren’t etching until you are ready to install it.
When you have the area masked off, you are ready to etch the window. With
mechanical etching, you can do one of two things: use either a sandblaster with very
fine blasting media (made specifically for etching) or a Dremel with an engraving bit
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and trace the design. Since the former is more complex but produces a better end prod-
uct, I’ll discuss it in more detail.
If you are going to do your own sandblasting, you’ll need a cheap sandblaster
(you can find them at most home improvement and hardware stores—handhelds work
just fine, or you can rent them), an air compressor of the proper size, and blasting
media. Also, this should be done outside to prevent blasting media from getting all
over things—it tends to work its way into the most inconvenient places. This also
means you should wear full protective gear when working with sand blasting (gloves,
hat, long-sleeved shirt, and pants). Finally, it doesn’t require much pressure to etch
Plexiglas, so keep the air pressure low. If the pressure is too high, the blasting will
produce too much heat and possibly crack the Plexiglas.
Chemical Etching
Chemical etching works basically the same as mechanical abrasive etching, but instead
of an abrasive, a mild acid (hydrofluoric acid, usually) etches the glass. This compound
89
can be found in your local hobby stores (Michael’s, Hobby Lobby, etc.) and comes either
■ CASE WINDOWS
as a liquid or gel (I like the gel better). The process is basically the same. However,
after you have your design cut out and the rest of the glass masked off, make double
sure the decal is stuck down completely so that the liquid can’t get underneath it. Any-
where the etching compound goes on the glass, you’ll get an etched window.
Just apply the compound and wait for it to do its job. How long you leave it on
depends both on the brand of compound and how deep you want the etch to be. Gen-
erally speaking, longer application times mean a deeper etch. Exactly how long that
takes depends on the concentration of active ingredient in the etching compound.
Note: Each brand of compound gives different lengths of time to leave the compound on the glass. Read
the instructions that come with your compound to be sure.
When finished etching, neutralize the etching compound according to the instruc-
tions on the bottle, then wash the window off with soap and water into a basement
drain (not in the bathtub or the kitchen sink; the materials can damage the porcelain
fixtures).
Warning: Obey local disposal codes when disposing of this material as it is toxic and can cause envi-
ronmental damage if not neutralized first.
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Window Appliqués (Etching Decals)

In addition to actually etching your window, you can apply window appliqués that
make it look like the window has been etched. You can find them online at mod supply
stores like Xoxide. Essentially, you are applying a big sticker to the window. If done
correctly, it will look like the window has been etched.
Note: Some companies will make custom window appliqués (for an extra fee, of course). Shattered Web
(www.shatteredweb.com), for example, will make an appliqué based on your design.
Procedure: Etching a Window with Sandblasting

One way of differentiating your case from everyone else’s is to etch a design into your window. It
90 really sets off the window.
Items Needed
• A properly masked window
• Sandblasting equipment with fine blasting media (don’t use glass, it isn’t strong enough to
etch Plexiglass)
• Safety gear (goggles, gloves, etc.)
3:
Procedure Steps
CHAPTER
1. Lean the window against a sturdy structure out of direct sunlight (and make sure no blasting
media gets behind the window).
2. Turn on the air compressor, allow the compressor’s tank to fill, and set the regulator to 40 PSI
(or whatever the sandblasting equipment manufacturer recommends).
3. Fill the sand hopper with blasting media.
4. Point the blasting nozzle toward the window at a 90° angle to the window and activate the
trigger.This will send a stream of air and blasting media toward the design.
5. Sweep across the masked design, maintaining the 90° angle so as not to lift up the masking.
Continue until the masking has changed color (indicating it has gotten thinner).
6. Stop occasionally to wipe off any blasting dust and check your progress.
7. Stop blasting when the entire design has a uniform, dull appearance.
8. Remove all blasting dust by turning the window upside down and blowing.
9. Remove masking and wash the window with soapy water.
10. Enjoy your newly etched window.
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Procedure: Applying a Window Appliqué

If you don’t want to go through the trouble of etching your own window, you can use a window
appliqué to achieve the same basic effect.
Items Required
• Appliqué
• Case window
• Nonammonia window cleaner
• Water in a spray bottle (optional, but helpful)
• Squeegee or thin plastic card (like a credit card)
Procedure Steps
1. Clean the window with a nonammonia-based window cleaner and dry it off thoroughly.
91
2. Spray a mist of water on the surface (optional, depending on the appliqué being used)—
■ CASE WINDOWS
only spray a little.The thin mist of water will allow you to reposition the graphic as you are
trying to install it.
3. Remove the paper backing from the appliqué. Make sure the appliqué stays with the plastic
backing.
Continues
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Procedure: Applying a Window Appliqué (continued)

4. Apply the appliqué to the window from the top down (you may have to apply it to the back
side of the window, depending on the design).
92
5. Use a squeegee or plastic card to squeeze the air bubbles out.Work from the center to the
edges, squeezing air bubbles out as you go.Very small bubbles can be left as they will remove
3:
themselves after sitting for a few days.

CHAPTER
6. Carefully remove the plastic backing from the appliqué. It may help to work from one corner
or point on the graphic to the opposite side.
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Note: If you get bubbles in your graphic, don’t pop them.You will only damage the graphic. It’s better to
remove the appliqué back to the bubble and reinstall than to risk having a hole in the graphic.
Other Window Techniques

In addition to the basic case window and etchings, there are several other techniques
for making the case window more attractive. I’ll discuss some of these techniques here,
and you can search online to find more examples. Keep in mind that people are always
coming up with new window treatment techniques, so there will always be more examples
to see.
Plasma Windows
I would be willing to bet most of you have seen a plasma ball. They are the small
knickknacks you see in novelty stores that have a spider-like ball of light inside of 93
■ CASE WINDOWS
them. You may also have seen Luminglas panels, which are 1/2″ thick circles that
make the same patterns as plasma balls, only on flat sheets of glass.
One of the coolest things is to mount one of these panels behind a window
cutout. You can see through it, somewhat, and the effect is astounding (Figure 3.13).
Essentially, all you do is make a window cutout, trim the edges with a file and sandpa-
per to clean them up, then mount the panel behind the window opening (using bolts or
similar to support the panel). After that, you only need to wire it up or just plug it in.
Figure 3.13 A Luminglas plasma window

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Bubble or Fish Tank Windows

The bubble window, or fish tank mod, is one that can get you into trouble in a hurry.
Essentially, you put water into a very thin fish tank made of Lexan or other material.
The window is premade and you just need to securely mount it in the case side. It’s
extremely important that this mod be well made, as water and electronics don’t mix.
Warning: This case mod could damage your computer if there is a leak.Always test a mod that works with
water for at least 48 hours straight.That way,if a leak develops,you won’t destroy any valuable components.
This mod is very simple to perform: just buy the window and install it. However,
these mods are usually made for specific cases. Putting one in a case not designed for it
can cause problems like leaks or other damage.
If you desperately want a case window with water and bubbles in it, you can
94
make your own like the folks at GideonTech did (http://www.gideontech.com/content/
articles/178/1). However, it’s not as easy as it looks. Unless you are prepared for the
possible results, I don’t recommend that you build your own.
UV Reactive Plexiglas and Molding

One final consideration when deciding on a window mod is UV reactive items. These
3:
items glow with an eerie light when exposed to UV light (from a UV cold cathode
CHAPTER
light, of course). It is possible to obtain UV reactive Plexiglas and UV reactive window

molding for that out-of-this world look. Browse through some of the cases in the color
gallery, and you’ll see what I mean.
Note: Use these window tips at your discretion to make your case a one-of-a-kind piece of computing art.
Premodded Cases
With the popularity of case modding, it was only a matter of time before someone came
out with a “premodded” case. These cases are simply regular computer cases that are
designed to look like they were modified by someone. Usually they have windows and
some kind of injection-molded plastic front with a design in relief.
There are two basic trends with premodded cases: metal and acrylic. Let’s examine
each of these types briefly.
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Metal
Metal premodded cases are probably the most popular types of case. They’re made
of some kind of metal (usually either steel or aluminum) that has some funky front
molded out of plastic and integrates with the scheme of the case. You can find these
cases at almost every online retailer. As a matter of fact, it is getting harder and harder
to distinguish a premodded case from a standard case. It’s also getting difficult to find
a standard beige or white case anymore. Figure 3.14 shows a premodded case known
as the Diablo tower, and you can see why. Notice the figure sculpted into the front of
the case and in the window. You can see the manufacturers went with a theme and
ended up with a very nice looking (and functioning) case.
95
■ PREMODDED CASES
Figure 3.14 A premodded case

(photo courtesy Xoxide.com)
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Acrylic
Another popular trend in premodded cases these days is the clear acrylic case, as
shown in Figure 3.15. Essentially this is a computer case made entirely of clear plastic
that allows you to see the inner workings of the case completely. They are often sold
with “some assembly required,” which means you have to put them together. A couple
of points about acrylic cases:
• They look very cool (especially the UV reactive)
• They scratch easily
• You can see everything, and I do mean everything (that’s both good and bad)
Note: There’s nothing wrong with using a premodded case. If it fits your theme, go with it!
96
3: CHAPTER
Figure 3.15 An acrylic case (photo courtesy Xoxide.com)

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Laptop Modifications
In addition to the case mods you can do to a standard desktop computer, you can also
modify laptop computers, although because the inside of the computer is much more
compact and unique, there are very few things (if any) that can be done to the interior
of the computer. However, you can modify the exterior of a laptop case.
It is possible to paint the case, but in order to prevent damage to the internal
components of the computer, you must take the case of the laptop completely apart,
removing all the internal components. This is extremely difficult to do unless you have
some of the special laptop-related tools (like Torx-bit screwdrivers and the factory-
provided case splitter). But it can be done. Often, you can find information about how
to remove the case on your laptop manufacturer’s support website.
Note: We’ll discuss case painting in Chapter 8,“Painting.”

97
■ LAPTOP MODIFICATIONS
Many people use decals to dress up their laptop as well. This is done in the exact
same manner as decals for desktop cases.
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Drive Modifications
In addition to modifying the case, it is possible to
modify the various disk drives and their features
4
to more easily match a case’s overall theme. It’s
easy to see why you might make some disk system
modifications. Others are cool just because you
can do them and they look out of this world.
99
■ D R I V E M O D I F I C AT I O N S
Chapter Contents
LEDs
Drive cutouts
Stealthing drives
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Activity LEDs
One modification that’s fairly easy to do is to replace the drive activity light for a disk
drive with one that’s a different color (typically a color that matches the theme you’ve
chosen for your case). You are just swapping out the existing LED for another, so there
is very little that needs to be done. Essentially, you clip off or desolder the old LED and
replace it with one in the new color and style.
There are two types of LEDs that you might want to install: the hard drive activity
LEDs and the CD-ROM and floppy LEDs.
Changing Case Hard Drive Activity LEDs

Most cases today use a special dongle cable that runs from the LEDs installed in the
front of the case to the front panel jumper sets on the motherboard. This is the simplest
type of LED replacement. First of all, remove the LEDs from the front case panel. Usu-
ally, these are either clipped or glued in place. You can snip off the clips or glue and
100 remove the LEDs (the new LEDs will be glued in place once they’ve been changed).
D R I V E M O D I F I C AT I O N S ■
Warning: The LED you use to replace the original LED with must be the same voltage rating and power
consumption as the original or you risk damaging your motherboard.
Procedure: Changing a Case’s Front Panel LED

4: CHAPTER
There are occasions where the front panel LEDs (power, hard drive activity, etc.) don’t match with
the overall theme of the case. In these cases, you may need to replace the LEDs.This procedure
shows the steps necessary to do this.
Items Needed
• Sharp knife
• Hot glue gun
• Soldering iron with solder
• New LEDs to match case theme
• Wire cutters
• Wire stripper
• Screwdrivers to remove case front
• Shrink wrap (very small diameter—only slightly bigger than the wire used)
• Heat source (heat gun, lighter, etc.)
Continues
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Procedure: Changing a Case’s Front Panel LED (continued)

Procedure Steps
1. Remove case sides to get access to case front retainers. Remove case front and tip forward so
you can see the wires leading to the front panel switches and LEDs.
101
■ ACTIVITY LEDS
2. Locate the pair of wires for the front panel LEDs you want to change (in this case you’ll be
changing the hard drive activity LED).The motherboard side of this pair of wires will usually
be labeled “HDD” or similar. Remove this connection from the motherboard.
3. Using the wire cutters, cut the pair of wires leading to the front panel LED. Cut them very
close to the LED so you have plenty of slack left over to solder the new LED to.
4. Remove the LED from the front case. LEDs on most cases are held in place in a hole with just a
dab of hot glue. Use the sharp knife to cut off the blob of glue and pull the LED out of its hole.
5. Reattach the other end of the wire to the proper HDD activity connector on the motherboard.
6. Reassemble the case and computer. Power up the computer and test for proper functionality.
If you have the wrong voltage LED, it may burn bright for a few seconds, then burn out.
Replace it with the proper voltage LED.
Changing CD-ROM and Floppy LEDs

You may have noticed, as I did a long time ago, that most CD-ROM and floppy drive
activity LEDs are green. Not all, mind you, but most. Now, if you are really particular
about everything matching your mod’s overall theme (like I am) you might want to
change out the green LEDs for red, blue, or some other color—maybe even white.
If you really want to do this, it’s possible. Basically, you just disassemble the
drive, desolder the existing LED, and install a new LED (with matching voltage, of
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course). There’s really not much more to it than that, but there are a couple of concepts
you’ll need to understand.
First of all, let’s discuss desoldering. The circuit boards that hold these LEDs in
place are made on massive assembly lines. The components on the boards were never
meant to be removed, so they are very close together. They didn’t build them with
modders in mind! You have to be very careful when desoldering not to accidentally
get solder on a nearby connector and cause a short.
To desolder a component, you can buy a special desoldering iron (basically a
soldering gun with a suction bulb). Or, for items such as LEDs with longer leads, you
can heat up the connection and then gently tug on the lead to remove it from the cir-
cuit board, as shown in Figure 4.1.
Another thing to keep in mind when replacing drive LEDs is that you’ll have
to disassemble the drive. This can be extremely unnerving the first time you do it.
It’s not a big deal to try it on a floppy drive that you can buy for a couple bucks, but
your expensive DVD burner may not be the best candidate for your first foray into
102
the world of LED swap-out!
Note: When desoldering an LED, note if the circuit board has markings designating which side of the
connection is positive (+) and which is negative (-).You will need to install the new LED with the same
orientation as the old.
4:
Note:
CHAPTER
The procedure for changing the LED in an floppy drive is the same as it is for changing it in a
CD-ROM drive.
Figure 4.1 Desoldering an LED

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Procedure: CD-ROM Drive Activity LED Swap-out

You want all of your lights in your case to match, don’t you? This procedure shows you how to
replace your CD-ROM activity LED with one of a different color.
Items Needed
• Small flat bladed screwdriver
• Soldering iron
• Needle-nose pliers
• Replacement LED (same voltage as the LED being replaced)
Procedure Steps
1. Shut down the computer. Remove the case side(s) and remove the CD-ROM from the drive bay.
103
2. Remove the front bezel of the CD-ROM.You may have to remove screws as well as push in
■ ACTIVITY LEDS
retaining tabs. It helps to have the CD-ROM tray (if so equipped) in the out position.You can
either eject the drive then power the computer down, or push a straightened paper clip into
the emergency eject hole.
3. Notice the location and type of the LED. If the LED is one of the extremely small ones, you can
attempt to replace it, but the danger of shorting the board is high. Plus, it’s more difficult to
buy these smaller LEDs. However, if the board uses a larger LED and a square block of plastic
as a diffuser, you’re in luck!
4. Desolder the existing LED. Hold the soldering iron against the LEDs leads that are soldered
into the circuit board. Use the needle nose pliers to gently tug on the leads as you apply heat
until the LED comes free.
Continues
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Procedure: CD-ROM Drive Activity LED Swap-out (continued)

5. Trim the new LEDs leads so the LED is at the same height (and in the same position) as the
one you just removed.
6. Insert the LEDs leads into the circuit board and solder them in place.
7. Reassemble the CD-ROM drive, install, and test.
Cutouts or Drive Windows

Disk drives are curious devices. A lot of noise is made by these small, boxy devices, and
people are extremely curious about what’s going on inside these devices and what kind
of equipment is inside. Figure 4.2 shows an example of the inside of a typical hard drive;
Figure 4.3 shows the inside of a typical CD-ROM drive.
104
Beautiful, ain’t they? You should show those to the world, huh? They look espe-
cially cool when lit and in motion!

4: CHAPTER
Figure 4.2 The inner workings

of a hard drive
Figure 4.3 The inner workings

of a CD-ROM drive
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Procedure: Making a Windowed Hard Drive

In this procedure, you will cut a hole in the top of a hard drive and put a window in it so everyone
who looks at your case can see your hard drive operating.
Items Needed
• Hard drive
• Screwdrivers (Torx, small Phillips, flat blade)
• Dremel with cutting wheel
• Sharpie or similar marker
• File and sandpaper
• Cleaning solvents
• Clean plastic zip-closed storage bags
• Thin (1/32″ or thinner), clear, rigid plastic (big enough for the window) 105
■ CUTOUTS OR DRIVE WINDOWS

• Plumber’s Goop or other strong adhesive that will bond metal to plastic
Procedure Steps
1. Back up your data! This procedure could easily wipe out your entire hard drive. Also,
opening the drive will void any kind of warranty you have on the drive.
2. After backing up, turn off the computer. Remove the case sides, disconnect the hard drive, and
remove it from the computer.
3. Move the hard drive to a clean workspace, preferably somewhere relatively free of dust, dirt,
or the chance of getting anything on or in the hard drive.
4. Carefully remove the hard drive’s cover.You may have to remove a sticker covering the last
screw.You may also have to find the right size screwdriver to fit the screws holding the hard
drive’s case together.
Continues
4360c04.qxd 9/23/04 11:01 AM Page 106
Procedure: Making a Windowed Hard Drive (continued)

5. Once you have removed all the screws, put them into a zip-locked bag so you don’t lose them.
6. Separate the two halves of the hard drive.The bottom half contains the drive motor and control
circuitry.The top is just a cover. Put the bottom half into a clean zip-locked bag and close it
tightly. Do not disturb the drive after putting it in the bag. Even one dust particle can render
the drive inoperable.
7. Bring the drive cover to a separate work area.
8. Lay out where you want your window. It’s usually a good idea to show off the rounded part
where the drive platters are rotating as well as the read/write heads.You also want to make
sure there is enough clearance for the window you’ll be installing and that there is enough of
a lip to glue it to.When you have decided on a location, mark it with the marker. Make sure
not to cut out any mounting tabs or screw holes.
106
4: CHAPTER
9. Now that you have the drive cover marked, get out your trusty Dremel tool with the cutting
wheel.That may not seem like the best choice because it produces a lot of dust, but it does
the job and you can clean up afterward. Cut out the opening you drew.
Continues
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107

10. Clean up the rough edges of the opening with a file and sandpaper.
11. Wash down the inside and outside of the drive cover to remove all traces of dust, dirt, and oil.
There is no such thing as too clean with this procedure! Wipe it clean and allow it to dry
thoroughly in a dust-free environment.
12. Cut a piece of thin plastic to serve as the window. It should be a bit bigger than the opening.
Continues
4360c04.qxd 9/23/04 11:01 AM Page 108

13. Run a bead of Plumber’s Goop around the rim of the window opening. Be careful not to use
too much or it will squeeze out around the window and might cause fit problems.
14. Install the window and press it in place. Allow the adhesive to dry thoroughly.
15. Clean the window and the inside of the drive cover again. Allow them to dry thoroughly.
16. Remove the drive base from the plastic bag and gently reinstall the drive cover. Check for fit
and clearance problems. If everything works, put the screws back in to secure the drive cover.
17. Reinstall the drive in your case and reconnect the power and data cables.
18. Power up your computer and test.Tap your feet nervously while waiting to see if the drive
actually works after being disassembled.
19. Success!!!! (If your drive works) Congratulations! You’ve pulled off a kick-butt mod!
108
Procedure: Cutting a Window in a CD-ROM Drive

You might want to know why you would cut a hole in a perfectly good CD-ROM drive. Because you
can, of course! Especially if you have a window in the top of your case already. Usually, you can put
a window in the top of your CD drive so you can see the CD-ROM spinning and the read head going
back and forth. It’s a relatively simple mod and, for the most part, extra light doesn’t affect the
4: CHAPTER
operation of the drive.

Items Needed
• CD-ROM (DVD, CD-RW, etc.)
• Screwdrivers
• File and sandpaper
• Cleaning supplies (paper towels, window cleaner, etc.)
• Marker
• Thin, clear plastic (1/16″ or thinner)
• Plumber’s Goop or hot glue
Continues
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Procedure: Cutting a Window in a CD-ROM Drive (continued)

Procedure Steps
1. Power down the computer. Unplug it. Remove case sides and remove CD-ROM from the computer.
2. Remove the CD drive’s case cover by removing the four (or more) screws that hold it in place.
Put the drive mechanism out of the way somewhere it won’t get dirty or dusty.
109

3. Mark the cutout location on the case cover. Be careful not to cut out the hub that supports
the CD-ROM during rotation or any key structural members. Also, leave enough space at the
edges so you can glue your window to it.
Continues
4360c04.qxd 9/23/04 11:01 AM Page 110

4. Using the Dremel with the cutting wheel to cut out the hole you marked.
110
5. Dress (clean up) the edges of the cut with a file and sandpaper.
6. If you wish, you can paint the drive case at this point (use a quality primer before you apply
the paint so the paint won’t flake off).
7. Cut the plastic window (use a cutoff wheel or score-and-break method) to fit behind the
opening you just made (make it about 1/4″ bigger on all sides so that you have a gluing sur-
face to glue the window to).
4:
8. Flip the drive case over and run a bead of adhesive around the inside of the drive case win-
CHAPTER
dow opening, close to the edge of the opening but not so close that the glue squishes out
onto your nice, clean window.
9. Put the plastic piece on the glue bead you just ran and hold it firmly for a couple minutes
(until it sets).
10. Walk away for about 30 minutes and let the glue set up completely before moving the cover.
Continues
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11. When the glue has completely set, flip the cover back over and reinstall it onto the drive.
Voila! A CD-ROM drive with a view!
12. To finish, reinstall the drive into the computer, reconnect all the cables, and power up the com-
puter.Troubleshoot if necessary. High speed screeching usually means something is rubbing on
one of the rotating parts of the CD-ROM drive (usually the hub). If so, remove the cover and fix
the problem (you may have to trim away metal or plastic to keep it from rubbing):
111
■ S T E A LT H I N G C D - R O M D R I V E S
13. To accentuate this mod, put a window in the top of your case (see Chapter 3) so you can see
the CD spinning.
Note: You might want to put a window in your case so everyone can see this awesome new mod of
yours! For directions on installing a window in your case, check back in Chapter 3,“Case Modification.”
Stealthing CD-ROM Drives

Let’s face it. Not every computer component is elegant looking. Most components, espe-
cially disk drives, were designed with function in mind instead of a beautiful design. To
that end, one of the coolest cosmetic mods you can make is stealthing a disk drive.
Stealthing a drive is the process whereby the CD-ROM is camouflaged behind a
drive bay blank so that the drive bay looks empty (as shown in Figure 4.4). When you
press a button or the front of the drive blank, presto! The drive pops open and reveals
its secret (as shown in Figure 4.5).
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Figure 4.4 A stealthed CD-ROM drive in the

closed position
112
Figure 4.5 A stealthed CD-ROM drive in the

open position
4: CHAPTER
It’s important that you realize that this can only be done to a CD-ROM, DVD,
or other tray-loading CD-ROM drive. I repeat: these procedures are meant for tray-
loading drives only.
Procedure: Stealthing a Tray-loading CD-ROM Drive

I like this mod because it cleans up the look of a case. Instead of lots of different-looking drives,
you just have a clean case front, and the drives are hidden behind the drive bay blanks.
Items Needed
• Case
• Tray-loading CD-ROM (or DVD) drive
• Drive bay blank that matches/fits your case
• Hot glue gun with high temperature glue sticks
Continues
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Procedure: Stealthing a Tray-loading CD-ROM Drive (continued)

• 1 medium zip tie
• Small flat-bladed screwdriver
• Paper clip (straightened)
Procedure Steps
1. Turn off your computer, remove the side panels, and remove your CD-ROM drive from its exist-
ing bay. Disconnect the power and data cables and remove the mounting screws (this is not
necessary in tool-less cases) that hold the drive into the case. Pull the drive out of the front of
the case.
2. Locate the auxiliary eject button hole near the normal eject button. Insert the straightened 113
paper clip into the hole and push until the tray opens.
3. Remove the front drive bezel.You may have to remove some screws or push in some plastic
tabs, or both.
4. Reinstall the CD-ROM drive. However, this time, push the CD-ROM drive into the case far
enough that the drive blank will cover the drive but the tray can touch the inside of the drive
blank. Also, leave the mounting screws loose enough so you can adjust the position of the
drive, but tight enough so that the drive won’t fall out.
Continues
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5. Use the Dremel to cut the mounting tabs off of the drive blank.You may have to clean up
these cuts with a file and/or sandpaper as the Dremel cutting wheels tend to melt the plastic
rather than make clean cuts.
114
4: CHAPTER
6. Test fit the drive blank. It should fit well but fall easily out of place.You don’t want the drive
blank binding, as it will be the new front of the CD-ROM drive.
7. Glue the drive blank to the very end of the CD-ROM tray using the hot glue gun.The key to this
step is making sure that the drive blank is seated just as the CD-ROM tray is in its completely
closed position. Also, you’ll have to work quickly. Glue the drive blank to the tray (make sure
not to use too much glue or you may glue the drive closed), push it closed, and make sure the
drive is aligned so that the blank sits flush when the drive is completely closed.
Continues
4360c04.qxd 9/23/04 11:01 AM Page 115

8. Wait 15 minutes for the hot glue to dry.
9. Open the drive tray. Reglue if the drive blank isn’t secure.
10. Note the location of the eject button.
11. Measure the distance between the eject button and the back of the drive blank cover you just
glued to the CD-ROM tray.
12. Cut the large end off of a medium zip tie equal to this distance (maybe even just a bit bigger,
about 1/32″).
13. Glue this piece to the back of the drive blank in a location so that it contacts the eject button
on the drive.
115
Zip tie end
14. Tighten the screws that hold the drive in place and reinstall the power and data cables.
15. Test for proper drive operation. Power the computer up and press the corner of the drive
blank over the eject button.The drive should eject cleanly and return cleanly. If not, adjust
by regluing.
16. Reassemble computer and enjoy your new stealthed CD drive.
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4360c05.qxd 9/23/04 11:01 AM Page 117
Cooling Modifications
It’s a basic concept of physics: electronic compo-
nents turn electricity into work and heat. The heat
must be dissipated or the excess heat will shorten
the life of the components. In some cases (like with
the CPU), the component will produce so much
heat that it can destroy itself in a matter of seconds
if there is not some way to remove this extra heat. 117
5
■ C O O L I N G M O D I F I C AT I O N S
In this chapter, you will learn the methods that
modders use to ensure that their systems run as
cool as possible (often well below standard oper-
ating temperatures).
Chapter Contents
Fans
Memory Cooling
Hard Drive Cooling
Chipset Cooling
CPU Cooling
Silent Cooling Methods
4360c05.qxd 9/23/04 11:01 AM Page 118
Fans
When you turn on a modded computer, you will often hear lots of whirring. Contrary
to popular opinion, the majority of the noise isn’t coming from the hard disk (unless
it’s about to go bad). Most of this noise is coming from the various fans inside of the
computer. Fans provide air flow within the computer.
Most PCs have a combination of these six fans:
Front intake case fan This fan brings fresh, cool air into the computer for cooling
purposes.
Rear exhaust case fan This fan takes hot air out of the case.
Power supply fan This fan is usually at the back of the power supply and cools the
power supply. Additionally, there are fans that pull hot air from above the CPU into
the power supply so that it can be exhausted.
CPU fan This fan cools the processor. Typically, this fan is attached to a large heat
118
sink, which is in turn attached directly to the processor.
Chipset fan Some motherboard manufacturers replaced the heat sink on their on-
C O O L I N G M O D I F I C AT I O N S ■
board chipset with a heat sink and fan combination. This fan aids in the cooling of
the onboard chipset (and is especially useful when overclocking).
Video card chipset fan As video cards get more complex and have higher performance,
more video cards have cooling fans right on their video cards.
Ideally, the airflow inside a computer should resemble the following:
5:
Power
CHAPTER
Supply
CPU
Case Fans Case Fans

Video Card
Hard Drive
NIC
Motherboard
= Airflow
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Fan Sizes and Air Movement

Typically, there are three main sizes for PC cooling fans: 80mm, 92mm, and 120mm.
The sizes are the diameter of the fan opening itself (measured across the hole). Generally
speaking, the larger the fan, the more air it can move, or a larger fan can move the
same amount of air at a lower speed.
In addition to its size, a fan is rated in how much air it can move in cubic feet
per minute (CFM). The higher the CFM is, the more air can be moved, and thus, the
greater the cooling ability of the fan.
Fan Types
In addition to the various sizes, fans come in several different types and styles, including:
Plain Most fans that come with a PC case are of this type. They are usually black, and
the power connector contains only a power lead and ground lead. These fans are easily
obtainable and usually cost $4 or less.
119
Fan speed sensor-equipped Most fans today come with an internal speed sensor that
■ FA N S
can indicate to a motherboard or fan controller the exact speed the fan is running at.
This sensor is often used with a self-regulating motherboard that can increase or decrease
the fan speed depending on the case’s internal temperature. You can tell if the fan has a
speed sensor because there will be three wires coming from the fan: red (power), black
(ground), and yellow (speed sensor).
Black wire
Red wire
Yellow wire
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UV reactive As with other case items, the fans themselves can be decorations. Some
fans are made with UV-reactive plastic in various colors that glow when exposed to
UV light. While more expensive than conventional fans, they look right at home inside
a case with lots of UV-reactive items.
Silent Some people don’t like their computer to sound like a jet engine at takeoff, espe-
cially if that computer is a media PC used in the living room and connected to a televi-
sion and home theater system. To reduce noise, some fan manufacturers have made
fans that use fan blades that cut the air at a less severe angle. These fans put out less
than 25dB of noise (most case fans put out between 50 and 105dB).
High airflow If a computer has been seriously overclocked, then airflow can be an
issue. Most standard case fans put out around 25–35CFM of airflow. High airflow
fans can put out as much as 100CFM. However, the tradeoff is usually noise-for-CFM.
The more CFM a fan moves, the more noise it makes.
Lighted One of the most common types of fans in modded PCs is the lighted fan. Usu-
120 ally, they are speed sensing fans made of semitranslucent plastic that is lit with high-
intensity LEDs. They are available in a wide range of colors and LED styles. Some even
have LEDs that can be turned off or have their colors changed. Some are lit with neon
or EL wire to produce an otherworldly glow when they are running.
Note: When installing a lighted fan,make sure the lighting color and style matches the theme of your case.
5:
Fan Grilles
CHAPTER
With all of the fans either bringing air into a case or exhausting it, they’re not much to
look at, just a spinning fan. Fans tend to take away from the exterior appearance of a
case. Also, if the fan intake is exposed directly to the outside air, there is a possibility of
a foreign item (e.g., a finger) being caught in the spinning fan blades.
To that end, most cases have some kind of grille covering the fan intake. This
grille can be both functional and decorative. Figure 5.1 shows an example of a decora-
tive fan grille.
In addition to the decorative fan grilles, some case manufacturers have decided
to incorporate filters on the case air intake and exhaust fans (always a good idea).
These filters filter out dust, hair, and other particulate matter and keep it from covering
the inside of your case. Figure 5.2 shows an example of an intake air filter on a case.
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121
Figure 5.1 A decorative fan grille
■ FA N S
Figure 5.2 An intake fan filter
There are hundreds of fan grilles available. Some are in the shape of company
logos, some are in the shape of cartoon characters, others are homemade (the essence
of case modding, in my opinion). There are even acrylic and UV sensitive fan grilles.
Distributors such as Xoxide.com have many different fan grilles to choose from that
usually range in price from $1–$10. As with other mod items, just make sure to choose
one that fits the overall theme of your case.
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Procedure: Adding a Case Fan (Blowhole)

If your system requires more air movement (either in or out), it may be necessary to install a new
case fan.This procedure will show you the method to install a case fan on the top of a case (also
known as a blowhole).
Items Needed
• New case fan (your choice, but make sure it will fit unobstructed where you want to put it)
• Fan grille (might come with the fan)
• Screwdriver
• Battery drill with 3/16″ drill bit
• Hole saw for metal (for an 80mm fan, use 3 1/2″ hole saw, 120mm use 4 1/2″)
• Center punch
122 • Hammer
• Masking tape
• Measuring tape, pen (with removable cartridge), and Sharpie marker
• Dremel with sanding drum or grinding drum
Procedure Steps
1. Turn off your PC, unplug it, and completely disassemble it. Remove all electronic components.
Metal filings will be created during this procedure and they get everywhere. Don’t take a chance
on one of the filings getting into the delicate (and expensive) electronic circuits inside the PC.
5: CHAPTER
2. Once you have removed all the components, locate a place for the fan on the top of the case
that is unobstructed by components inside the case (the power supply and CD-ROM drive,
usually). Completely mask off this area with masking tape to prevent damage to your case’s
paint job.
Continues
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Procedure: Adding a Case Fan (Blowhole) (continued)

3. Measure from side to side on the case and determine where the center of the case top is.
Mark the centerline on the masking tape with the Sharpie.
4. Using the Sharpie, mark the center of the fan hole’s location on the centerline between the back
of the CD-ROM drive and the front of the power supply (basically halfway between the two so
the fan isn’t interfering with the cables).The two centerlines should now form a plus sign (+).
5. Center punch the exact center of the + you marked on the masking tape.
6. Using the hole saw and drill, drill the new blowhole. Go slowly and brace yourself and the
work piece so the hole saw doesn’t catch and cause the drill to come around and hit you or
damage the work piece.
123
■ FA N S
7. Once the new hole has been drilled, center the new fan on top of the new hole. Disassemble
your pen and use the skinny pen insert to mark the locations of the four mounting holes
for the fan. Insert the pen cartridge through the marking holes and draw circles using the
mounting holes as guides. Be sure and hold the fan securely while you do this! Some fans
come with a template to be used when drilling these holes. If yours does, make sure you still
mark the locations of these holes before using the hole saw.
Continues
4360c05.qxd 9/23/04 11:01 AM Page 124
Procedure: Adding a Case Fan (Blowhole) (continued)

8. Center punch and drill the fan mounting holes. Use a 3/16″ drill bit to drill out the holes.
9. Install the fan and its grille using the screws supplied with the fan.There are two types of
screws you can mount the fan with, self-tapping and stove bolt, and often both are included.
Use whichever works best for you.
10. Reinstall the computer components and hook up power (and the speed sensor if so
equipped) to the new fan.Test for proper operation.You may have to use a fan extension
cable if the fan is too far from a power source or too far from a sensor connection.
Fan Controls
Most people assume that computer case fans should run at full speed all the time. That
124
may have been the case in the past, but with the explosion in popularity of case modding,
and the ability to control the most infinitesimal aspects of your computer, it is a natural
to want to control your fans as well.

As already mentioned, most fans today come with three leads: power, ground,
and speed sensor. This allows the fan to be plugged into either a motherboard with
speed sensing circuits (most motherboards today have them) or a digital fan controller
(like the Thermaltake Hardcano series of fan controllers), which you can pick up at
online retailers like Xoxide.com.
In addition to the motherboard, there are two main types of fan controls: fanbus
5:
(also know as rheobus) and digital fan controllers.

CHAPTER
Fanbus
A fanbus controller is really nothing more than multiple rheostats (fan speed control
knobs) installed in an unused 5.25″ bay. The rheostats vary the voltage going to the
fans by increasing or decreasing the resistance on the voltage line. You simply connect
power to the fanbus, then connect each of your fans to a rheostat in the fanbus. Some
fanbus controllers contain multicolored LEDs that change color depending on the volt-
age going to the fan. For example, blue could be off, green could be on (slow), and red
could be on (high).
Digital Fan Controllers

State of the art fan controls are the digital fan controllers. These controllers allow you
to control the fan speed, as well as do more fancy things like report temperature, fan
speed, and number of fans running; control the fan speed based on temperature (for
example, you can turn on a fan when the case gets too hot); and much more! Figure 5.3
shows an example of a digital fan controller.
4360c05.qxd 9/23/04 11:01 AM Page 125
Figure 5.3 A digital fan controller 125
■ M E M O RY C O O L I N G
If you are going to have multiple fans in your case, you may want to invest in a
digital fan controller. They aren’t that expensive and will greatly increase your ability
to control the internal fans in your case.
Memory Cooling
If you are going to start overclocking your computer (more on that in a later chapter),
you will want to do everything in your power to cool all your components in your
computer, and that includes your memory.
There are two methods of cooling memory: passive and active. The passive mem-
ory cooling method uses the ambient case air flow to cool the memory through the use
of enhanced heat dissipation (i.e., heat sinks). For this, you can buy either heat sinks or
special “for memory chips only” devices known as heat spreaders. These are special alu-
minum or copper housings that wrap around a memory chip and conduct the heat away
from the memory chips. Active cooling, on the other hand, usually involves forcing some
kind of cooling medium (air or water) around the RAM chips themselves or around
their heat sinks. Usually, active cooling methods are just high speed fans directing air
right over a set of heat spreaders.
Note: There are some memory mods that allow you to put activity lights on top of your memory coolers.
Some memory chips (like the Corsair XMS Pro memory modules) have the activity lights built in.
4360c05.qxd 9/23/04 11:01 AM Page 126
Hard Drive Cooling

You might be thinking, “Hey, my hard drive is working all the time. Is there anything
I can do to cool it off as well?” You bet your sweet bippie there is! There are both
active and passive cooling devices for hard drives as well. Most common, however, is
the active cooling bay. You install a hard drive cooler in a special device that fits into
a 5.25″ expansion bay. This device contains fans that draw in cool air over the hard
drive, thus cooling it. As you might suspect, you can get heat sinks for hard drives as
well. You can get both active and passive hard drive coolers at online retailers like
Xoxide.com.
Chipset Cooling
Every motherboard has a chip or set of chips that controls how the computer operates.
This set of chips is known as a chipset. As with other chips in the computer, the chipset
is normally cooled by the ambient air movement in the case. In some cases, the chipset
126
has its own active cooler. However, when you overclock a computer, the chipset may
need to be cooled more as it is working harder than it normally would. Therefore, it is

often desirable to replace the onboard chipset cooler with a more efficient one. Figure 5.4
shows an example of a special high performance chipset cooler.
5: CHAPTER
Figure 5.4 A chipset cooler

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CPU Cooling
Probably the greatest challenge in cooling is cooling the computer’s CPU, which is the
component that generates the most heat in a computer. As a matter of fact, if it isn’t
actively cooled all the time, it will generate enough heat to burn itself up in an instant.
That’s why most motherboards have an internal CPU heat sensor and a CPU fan sensor.
If there is no cooling fan active, these devices will shut down the computer before dam-
age occurs.
There are many different types of CPU cooling methods, but the two most impor-
tant are air cooling and advanced cooling methods.
Air Cooling Methods

The parts inside most computers are cooled by air moving through the case. The CPU
is no exception. However, because of the large amount of heat it produces, the CPU
must have (proportionately) the largest surface area exposed to the moving air in the
case. Therefore, the heat sinks on the CPU are the largest of any inside the computer. 127
■ CPU COOLING
Figure 5.5 shows an example of a high performance CPU cooler. It should be
noted that the highest performance CPU coolers use copper plates in direct contact
with the CPU. They also use high speed and high CFM cooling fans to dissipate the
heat produced by the processor.
Figure 5.5 A high performance CPU

cooler (photo courtesy Xoxide.com)
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128
Figure 5.6 A heat pipe CPU cooler
Some CPU heat sinks use what are known as heat pipes to transfer heat away
from the CPU. With any cooling system, the more surface area exposed to the cooling
method, the better the cooling. The heat pipes can transfer heat to a location away from
the heat source before cooling. This is especially useful in small form factor cases where
heat is limited. Figure 5.6 shows an example of a CPU cooler that uses heat pipes.
5: CHAPTER
Note: Among the highest performing air coolers made are those made by Zalman, Inc. (www.zalman.
co.kr). Their coolers are wild looking and perform exceptionally well.
Thermal Compound
With advanced heat sinks and CPU air cooling methods, it is important to improve
the thermal transfer efficiency as much as possible. To that end, cooling manufacturers
have come up with a compound that helps to bridge the extremely small gaps between
the CPU and the heat sink. It’s known as thermal compound and can be bought in
small tubes.
Note: In addition to using thermal compound, you can enhance the cooling efficiency of a CPU heat sink
by lapping (polishing) the heat sink.
4360c05.qxd 9/23/04 11:01 AM Page 129
If you’ve ever installed a brand new heat sink onto a CPU, you’ve most likely used
thermal compound or a thermal compound patch. However, some people have designed
special thermally conductive compounds (like Arctic Silver) that contain micronized silver
in an organic suspension fluid that are supposed to conduct heat better while filling in the
microscopic peaks and valleys in a heat sink’s surface.
Note: The jury is still out on whether the performance or cooling benefits will be had using special silver-
based thermal compounds.They do sell well, though.
When installing a processor, you’ll need to use thermal compound or a thermal

compound patch (which may already be affixed to a new heat sink). You only need a
very thin layer of thermal compound—too much can insulate the processor and cause it
to run hotter. To apply thermal compound, squeeze a ribbon of it about the size of a
grain of rice onto the central die of the processor, then install the heat sink and secure 129
■ CPU COOLING
it with the provided clips.
Warning: Do not use thermal compound if your heat sink already has a brand new thermal compound
patch. Just remove the protective film from the patch and install the heat sink.
If you are reinstalling an old heat sink, use isopropyl alcohol to remove any old
thermal compound residue from both the heat sink and the processor die, then apply
new thermal compound and reinstall the heat sink.
Procedure: Heat Sink Lapping

CPU heat sinks contain many microscopic peaks and valleys.Thermal compound is designed to fill
those valleys, but you can increase thermal transfer efficiency by lapping, or polishing, the metal
on the heat sink to a mirror gloss. One note: if your heat sink comes from the factory with a mirror
gloss, don’t bother with this procedure.
Items Needed
• Heat sink
• Wet/dry sand paper in 320 (only if the heat sink is very rough), 600, 1000, and possibly 2000 grit
• Masking tape
• Access to water, preferably distilled water in a squirt bottle
Continues
4360c05.qxd 9/23/04 11:01 AM Page 130
Procedure: Heat Sink Lapping (continued)

• A very flat, even, and smooth surface, such as a piece of glass or a mirror
• Isopropyl alcohol for cleaning
Procedure Steps
1. Lay the piece of glass on a work surface.
2. Tape the first grit of sandpaper—320, or 600 if the heat sink is not very rough—grit side up,
to the piece of glass.
3. Wet the sandpaper with a few drops of water.
4. Place the heat sink on the paper and begin moving the sandpaper in a circular motion. Do
not press down on the heat sink. Let the paper do most of the work of removing material.
5. Keep the sandpaper wet to remove any sanding residue (a squirt bottle works well for this).
130 6. Sand until there is an even surface on the heat sink. Don’t oversand or you might put the heat
sink out of square.

7. Change to the next finer grit (600 if you started with 320) and repeat steps 2 through 6. Stop
after you have used the 2000 grit paper.
8. If you have done the lapping correctly, the bottom of the heat sink will be mirror smooth.
5: CHAPTER
Advanced CPU Cooling Methods

In addition to standard air cooling methods, there are other methods of cooling a CPU
(and other chips as well). These methods are somewhat unorthodox but usually deliver
extreme low temperature results. These methods can also result in permanent damage
to your computer, so try them at your own risk.
4360c05.qxd 9/23/04 11:01 AM Page 131
Liquid Cooling
A new trend in PC cooling is liquid cooling (also known as water cooling), a technol-
ogy whereby a special water block conducts heat away from the processor (as well as
chipsets). Water is circulated through this block to a radiator, where it is cooled by a
fan (usually). Figure 5.7 shows an example of a watercooling system.
The theory is that you can achieve better cooling performance through the use of
liquid cooling. For the most part, this is true. With traditional cooling methods (which
also use air and water), the lowest temperature you can achieve is room temperature.
With liquid cooling, the pump is submerged in the coolant (generally speaking), so as it
works, it produces heat, which adds to the overall system temperature.
The main benefit to liquid cooling is silence. The only fan needed is the fan on
the radiator to cool the water, so a liquid cooled system can run extremely quietly.
Liquid cooling, while more efficient than air cooling and much quieter, has a
major drawback. Most liquid cooling systems start around $100 (although the price
is always coming down) and that includes reservoir, pump, water block(s), hose, and 131
■ CPU COOLING
radiator. Air cooling systems are usually cheaper (although if you are really into cool-
ing performance, the prices of all your fans and heat sinks could easily add up to more
than $100).
Figure 5.7 The parts of a water cooling system

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Peltier Cooling Devices

Water and air cooling devices are extremely effective by themselves, but they are more
effective when used with a device known as a Peltier cooling element. These devices,
also known as thermo-electric coolers (TECs), essentially will facilitate the transfer of
heat from one side of the element to the other. Thus, they have a hot side and a cold
side. The cold side should always be against the CPU die, and the hot side should be
against a heat sink or water block so that the heat can be dissipated.
Phase Change Cooling

There is a new type of PC cooling that is just starting to be used: phase change cooling.
With this type of cooling, the cooling effect from the change of a liquid to a gas cools
the inside of a PC. It is a very expensive method of cooling, but it does work extremely
well. Most often, phase change coolers have external air conditioner–like pumps, coils,
and evaporators that cool the coolant, which is sent, ice cold, to the heat sink blocks
132 on the processor and chipset. Think of it as a water cooling system that chills the water
below room temperature. It is possible to get CPU temps in the range of –20°C (normal
CPU temps hover between 40°C and 50°C).
The major problem with this method is that in higher humidity conditions, con-
densation can be a problem. The moisture from the air condenses on the heat sink and
can run off onto the processor and motherboard, thus shorting them out. Designers of
phase change cooling systems (like the Prometeia Mach II from Chip-Con) prevent this
problem by sealing the processor in insulating foam.
5:
Silent Cooling Methods

CHAPTER
One of the more recent trends in cooling is to use “silent” cooling methods. Or, more
accurately, nearly silent methods. These cooling methods use various techniques to keep
the sound output of the case to a whisper. For example, Zalman (www.zalmanusa.com)
has come up with an entire case that is cooled without fans. It is, without a doubt, the
quietest case on the market today. It uses zero fans. Even the power supply is fanless.
Many people might say it lacks style, but it more than makes up for it in performance.
Heat pipes carry heat from the heat producing component to large, aluminum, heat
sink plates.
At over $1000, it may be out of the budget for all but the most enthusiastic PC
enthusiast, but it is good to know that these kinds of innovations are constantly being
thought up.
4360c05.qxd 9/23/04 11:01 AM Page 133
Quiet Case Fans

If you are serious about quieting the jet engine that is your computer, you might con-
sider buying “quiet” case fans. These case fans are designed to put out less than 21dB
but still manage to output a respectable 24CFM. The Panasonic Panaflo is considered
to be the quietest case fan to use, and they are available for under $10.
Also, if you want to quiet your existing case fans, consider adding a fanbus and
just slow down your fans. Your case fans don’t have to be running at maximum speed
to cool your computer adequately if it’s not doing anything. Turn them down when the
computer isn’t working hard.
Sound Deadening Materials

If you’ve even plugged in a fan while it was out of the case, you’ve noticed that the fan
makes very little noise by itself. Most of the noise is a result of the case resonating the
fan’s vibrations. You can deaden the sound a fan makes by using special “fan isolators”
or vibration dampeners (see Figure 5.8). These dampers are made of rubber and are 133
■ SILENT COOLING METHODS

installed between the fan’s edges and the case (or in some cases, under the mounting
screw heads), thus preventing the fans’ vibrations from resonating throughout the case.
You can also dampen other vibrations and noise by applying a general purpose
sound absorption mat. This mat is made of foam and can be applied to entire panels
to absorb stray sound waves and vibrations. It can also be applied wherever metal-to-
metal contact could create a noise.
Figure 5.8 Fan vibration dampeners

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4360c06.qxd 9/23/04 11:01 AM Page 135
Performance
Modifications
People always want to see how much perform-
ance they can get out of a machine, whether it’s
cars or computers, and sometimes it requires
heavy modification to squeak the last bit of per-
formance out. People always want to get the most
135
bang for the buck.
■ P E R F O R M A N C E M O D I F I C AT I O N S
If computer performance has any law, it’s the same
one written on a sign hanging on many Hot Rod
6
speed shop walls: “Speed costs money. How fast
do you want to go?” The faster you want your
computer to go, the more memory you must spend
on cooling, processors, and other hardware.
Chapter Contents
Overclocking
Disk Subsystem Enhancements
Memory Enhancements
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Overclocking
You may have heard the term overclocking before, but what does it mean? Well, your
computer’s CPU is designed at the factory to run at a particular speed (e.g., 2.4GHz).
What is the difference between your CPU and someone else’s CPU that’s the same model,
except a different speed? Very little. As a matter of fact, the only difference is that the
faster CPU was just made a bit better and can tolerate running at the faster speed.
Your computer’s CPU is like a boot camp soldier. There is a drill instructor—
the Front Side Bus (FSB) clock crystal—telling the CPU exactly how fast to do things.
When the FSB clock says, “Jump” the CPU says “How high?” It is possible on many
motherboards to force a CPU to perform faster than its rated speed by increasing the
FSB speed (I’ll get into how in a minute). Some enterprising individual (probably some-
one that was $25 shy of the “next higher speed” model of processor) knew this and
was able to push his cheaper CPU into performing at the higher performance level.
Cool, huh? I’m sure you’re thinking to yourself, “I’ll buy the cheapest processor
136 out there and overclock it to the same performance as a $500 processor.” Sorry Jack.
P E R F O R M A N C E M O D I F I C AT I O N S ■
Not gonna happen. Okay, maybe it could happen, but you’d spend twice as much as
the $500 processor.
Why? In a word: limits. Some processors can only take so much abuse before
burning up entirely or refusing to boot. Overclocking is something of an art, not a
science. You’ll learn as you go what you can and can’t do when overclocking.
Note: This is an oversimplification of the overclocking process, but it’s accurate enough for a basic knowl-
edge. For more technical details, visit www.overclockers.com.
6: CHAPTER
CPU Overclocking
To overclock your computer’s CPU, you must first become acquainted with some terms:
Front Side Bus (FSB) This is the speed (in MHz) that the bus clock is running. The
faster the speed, the faster the data is going in and out of your CPU (and the more
your CPU will have to keep up).
Clock multiplier This is a number that indicates the number of times faster than the
FSB the CPU is running. For example, if the FSB is at 233 and the clock multiplier is
at 5, the CPU is running at 1165MHz (1.2GHz).
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Multiplier locking This is the practice by manufacturers of locking the multiplier on

certain processors so that they can’t be overclocked (or overclocked by very much).
Vcore (a.k.a core voltage) This is the voltage (in volts DC) that the processor is using.
As you increase the FSB speed or multiplier, you should also increase the Vcore to ensure
that the processor has enough power to do its work. This number should be increased
sparingly, however, as too much Vcore can fry your CPU.
In addition to these terms, you should know about two other major factors:
cooling and memory stability. The more you overclock your CPU, the more voltage it’s
going to need and the more heat it’s going to produce. This heat will need to be dissi-
pated, or the chip will essentially fry itself. If you overclock your CPU, make sure your
cooling system is first rate (including chipset and memory cooling).
Note: Refer to Chapter 5,“Cooling Modifications,”for more information about cooling systems.
137
■ OVERCLOCKING
In addition to cooling, you must have memory that is capable of withstanding
the rigors of overclocking. Your basic inexpensive memory chip might be able to be
overclocked—then again, it might not. It’s a matter of trial and error. However, gen-
erally speaking, if you buy better memory (Corsair is the brand with the best track
record), you’ll get better results.
Procedure: CPU Overclocking

This procedure is designed to make your computer perform better without your having to spend
more money (assuming your computer has quality components in it to begin with). Keep in mind
that this is something of an art form, and changes that work on one computer may not work on
another.
Items Needed
• Computer
• Excellent cooling system
• Detailed processor specifications (can be found on overclockers.com)
Continues
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Procedure: CPU Overclocking (continued)

Procedure Steps
1. Boot your computer and enter the BIOS Setup program (by pressing F1 or Delete or whatever
key combination is specified in your manual).
2. Go to the area in your BIOS Setup program that allows you to change voltages and frequencies
(i.e., Frequency/Voltage Control or something similar).
3. Write down the current settings of all settings listed in this area.
4. Begin by changing only one setting. For example, increase the FSB speed by, say, 10MHz, save
the changes, then reboot.
5. If the system is stable, make more changes (like changing the multiplier by one setting).
Reboot and check for stability. If necessary, increase the Vcore voltage setting slightly for
stability.
138
6. If the computer fails to post, reset all settings to those you wrote down in step 3 and reboot
to make sure the computer hasn’t been damaged.

7. Repeat steps 4–6 until the computer is operating at its highest performance while stable.
Essentially, overclock the system as far as you can until it starts becoming unstable and
Windows gives you blue screen errors, then back off on the settings a little.
Video Card Overclocking

Overclocking video cards is fairly simple. Most video cards produced today have a soft-
6:
ware utility that either comes with the video card or can be downloaded, which allows
CHAPTER
you to adjust the internal clock of the video card. It’s as simple as moving sliders. Just
shift the sliders (a small amount at a time) to increase performance (as shown in Fig-
ure 6.1). This will result in a performance gain.
However, as with CPU overclocking, it is necessary to have excellent cooling to
begin with. If you plan on extreme overclocking, it may be necessary to upgrade your
video card’s cooling system, possibly to a water cooling unit.
Note: If your video card doesn’t have this feature, you can use the Powerstrip utility for the same purpose.
It can perform multiple adjustments, including to VRAM timings, AGP speed, etc.You can download it from
http://www.entechtaiwan.net/util/ps.shtm.
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Figure 6.1 Changing a video card’s performance

139
■ DISK SUBSYSTEM ENHANCEMENTS

Disk Subsystem Enhancements
In most people’s computers, the CPU isn’t the bottleneck. It’s the rate at which data
can be obtained from the hard disk subsystem. Most of the time, you can increase
performance slightly by replacing your hard disk with one with a bigger cache or
faster spin speed. The larger cache allows data to be sent in a continuous stream at
the rated speed of the disk technology (e.g., Serial ATA, SCSI, etc.) rather than hav-
ing to wait for the data to be accessed from the disk. Since cache is a type of memory
and its access time is much faster than the rotational access speed of a disk drive,
performance is increased by using a disk with a larger cache.
Also, if you replace a disk drive with one of the same capacity but with a faster
rotation speed, performance will increase because it takes less time for the requested
data to rotate under the read/write head of the disk drive.
You may want to consider completely upgrading to a newer disk technology like
Serial ATA or SCSI if you want the best possible disk performance. If you do, you’ll
not only have to replace the drive, but you’ll need to install a controller card for the
new disk technology as well.
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Memory Enhancements
As mentioned earlier in the chapter, if you want the best possible overclocking per-
formance, you need to have good quality memory that can handle it. You want mem-
ory that is of sufficient build quality to take a little extra heat without causing errors.
As mentioned earlier, the Corsair, as well as Kingston and Mushkin brands of mem-
ory, have the best track records for overclocking.
For overclocking and system performance, it is important to know about
memory timing information and latency. You will often see a set of dashed numbers
listed next to a memory specification (e.g., PC 3200 2-2-2-5). These numbers indicate
the relative latency of a particular type of memory. Latency is the amount of time it
takes between the time data is requested from memory by the CPU and the when it
is retrieved.
Memory timings are designated by a set of four numbers, separated by dashes
(3-2-2-4). The first number always represents the Column Address Strobe (CAS)
140 latency. This number represents the number of clock cycles that pass between when
a read command is issued and when the data is received. The lower the number, the
better the performance because the CPU doesn’t have to wait long for data from
memory. This is probably the single most important number in the string of memory
timing numbers.
The second number is the Row Address Strobe (RAS) to CAS delay. RAS and
CAS work together to access data in memory. Think of your memory address as a large
spreadsheet. To access a particular bit of information, the computer must send two
signals—a row signal (RAS), then a column signal (CAS)—to identify a specific “cell”
before it receives the information. Between sending the RAS and CAS, there is a delay
6:
of a couple clock cycles. This is the RAS to CAS delay. As with CAS latency, the lower
CHAPTER
the number, the better the performance.

The third number is known as the RAS Precharge delay, and it is the number of
cycles it takes to return a row of memory to its precharge state after retrieving data.
Lower numbers are better here as well.
The final number is the Active to Precharge Delay, which is the fewest number
of clock cycles (usually between 5 and 8) that a particular row has to be active before
it can be discharged.
There you have it, the mystery of the four numbers revealed! Figure 6.2 illus-
trates these four numbers for you.
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So why are these numbers important? Well, if you are trying to increase the per-
formance of your system, you will want to make sure the memory you have in your
system has the fastest memory timings possible. For example, switching from RAM
with a CAS Latency of 3 to RAM with a CAS Latency of 2 will increase your perform-
ance noticeably. It is possible to try and force RAM to respond faster, but as with other
overclocking settings, it will take some time and some fiddling to get it to work.
CAS RAS to CAS RAS Precharge Active to

Latency Delay Delay Precharge Delay
3–2–2–5 Figure 6.2 RAM Timing numbers
141
■ M E M O RY E N H A N C E M E N T S
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Peripheral
Modifications
As you’ve seen, it is possible to modify the com-
puter and its case, but what about all the other
items that are used with a computer? Nothing
says “devil in the details” like modded peripherals
to go along with your modded case.
7
143
■ P E R I P H E R A L M O D I F I C AT I O N S
In this chapter, I’ll discuss some of the more
common peripheral mods that are done and how
to do them. Some of these mods are easier to do
than others, so pay attention.
Chapter Contents
Keyboards
Mice
Speakers
Monitors
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Keyboards
Keyboards are a natural fit for modding. If you are going to use a modded PC, you
should really have a modded keyboard as well. Now, of course you could buy a pre-
modded keyboard with lots of cool lighting and texture instead of a plain old boring
white or beige keyboard. But, that’s the point of modding: make something unique.
There are two types of keyboard modifications that you will generally see: lighting
and painting. There are other keyboard mods, but these are the two most popular.
Keyboard Lighting
One of the most popular things to do to a keyboard is to light it somehow. The effect
is stunning at night or in a dark room. They do make small, USB-powered lights that
can be shone onto a keyboard or any surface, but the coolest is one that lights from
within so it appears that the keys are surrounded with an eerie glow. Figure 7.1 shows
an example of this kind of keyboard.
144
P E R I P H E R A L M O D I F I C AT I O N S ■
7: CHAPTER
Figure 7.1 A premodded lighted keyboard
You can buy this kind of keyboard for around $40, but it’s even cooler to mod it
yourself—and it’s fairly simple if you have the right tools on hand.
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Procedure: Keyboard Lighting Mod

Having a cool lighted keyboard can be the crowning touch on a superbly modded computer.This
procedure will show you how to make a keyboard glow in the color of your choice.
Items Needed
• Keyboard (the thicker, the better)
• Wire cutters and wire strippers
• 5 feet of EL wire in the color of your choice (with inverter)
• A drill with a 3/32″ bit
• Super Glue (polycyanoacrylate glue)
• Soldering iron with flux-core solder
• Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
145
• Multimeter
■ KEYBOARDS
• Sandpaper
Procedure Steps
1. Flip the keyboard over (upside down, keys down) and remove the screws that hold the two
halves of the keyboard together from the bottom of the keyboard.
2. Turn the keyboard back over (right side up). Carefully remove the top half of the keyboard.There
are small cushions between the keys and the Mylar circuit inside the keyboard that can dislodge
if you’re not careful. If they dislodge, just put them back over the small circles where they go.
3. Locate the circuit board for the keyboard. Remove any screws holding the circuit board to the
interior of the keyboard. Pull it out and flip it over to expose the solder traces on the back side.
Continues
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Procedure: Keyboard Lighting Mod (continued)

4. One of these traces will have +5V going to it to power the keyboard from the cable running
to the computer.You will want to tap into this power source.You will also need to find a
ground. Use the multimeter to find a consistent +5V and ground (there’s usually a small
screw for ground).The best source for power is the leads coming from the keyboard cable.
Find them and see which one of them is supplying power to the keyboard.
146
5. Find a place for the inverter to sit while the keyboard is closed.There is a spot above the
F-keys about 1″ wide that will usually suffice. Glue the inverter in place and run the power
wires to the circuit board.
6. Cut the power connector off the inverter, strip the ends, and solder the power and ground LEDs
to the leads you found in step 4. Be careful when soldering that you don’t allow too much heat
7:
to get onto any of the electronics.Too much heat can fry a component, so work quickly.
CHAPTER
Continues
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7. If you have the room, you can install a small switch and wire it to the power lead side of the
EL inverter (so you can switch the light off).This is an optional step, however, and switches
tend to break when they stick out the back of a keyboard.
8. It is now time to run the EL wire underneath the keys. It’s always best to run the wire in a
zigzag pattern across the keyboard underneath the keys. For this, you will need to remove the
keys.They will push out from underneath (although you may have to use a flat bladed screw-
driver to release any catches).
9. Drill a small hole near the start of the run of the EL wire and push the EL wire through from
the inside of the keyboard to the area under the keys.
147
■ KEYBOARDS
10. Run the EL wire in a zigzag pattern under the keys. Keep it close to the small holes where the
keys go, but keep it flat against the keyboard tray so that the EL wire doesn’t interfere with
the proper operation of the keys. If you want to run the wire between sections of the key-
board, you may have to drill holes between them.
Continues
4360c07.qxd 9/23/04 11:01 AM Page 148

11. When the entire length of EL wire has been run and it does not interfere with the operation
of any of the keys, glue the EL wire in place with a small dab of Super Glue every so often.
Make sure not to get any glue in the keyholes or the keys won’t work! Also, make sure to glue
down the end of the EL wire so it doesn’t pop up.
12. Replace all the keys and test for proper operation.
13. Put the two halves of the keyboard back together and secure them with the screws.
14. Plug the keyboard in and test for proper operation. Fix any nonworking keys!
15. Congrats! You have a cool new keyboard! (It’s shown close up so you can see the glow around
the keys from the EL wire.)
148
7: CHAPTER
Keyboard LED Modification

So, you’ve got a cool-looking keyboard, but the green Caps Lock and other LEDs don’t
match your red case LEDs. What’s a modder to do? Wait a second! You can mod the
keyboard LEDs so they match your case lighting!
Basically, you just disassemble the keyboard, find the 3-3mm LEDs for the Caps
Lock, Num Lock, and Scroll Lock lights, desolder them, and solder in three different
colored LEDs. The only trick is making sure the LEDs are rated at less than 20ma and
less than 4Vdc. The hardest part will be making sure you don’t lose any of the hun-
dreds of parts inside the keyboard when you take it apart.
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Keyboard Painting
Whenever I mod a computer case, one of my trademark items is a painted keyboard.
I think it looks extremely tricked out to have a keyboard match the case. Even though
you can buy different colored keyboards, it looks much better to have an exact paint
match to your painted case. If you’re going to do all the work to prep and paint the
case, you might as well do the keyboard, too.
Note: You’ll learn more about painting computer parts in Chapter 8,“Painting.”
Procedure: Painting a Keyboard

To make your keyboard look as nice as your case, you may want to paint it.This procedure will 149
show you the basic steps needed to paint your keyboard. For more information on a particular
■ KEYBOARDS
process step, refer to Chapter 8.
Items Needed
• Keyboard
• Plastic baggie (zip-lock)
• Spray paint (in your choice of color and type)
• Primer (formulated to match your choice of paint)
• Sanding block
• Tack rag (can be found in the painting section of any hardware store)
• Sandpaper (180, 220, 320, and 500 grits)
• Plastic filler (e.g., Bondo)
• Source of water (a bucket of water is fine)
• Wax and grease remover
• Paper towels (lint free)
• Dust mask (for sanding)
• Paint respirator (wear during priming and painting)
Continues
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Procedure: Painting a Keyboard (continued)

Procedure Steps
1. Disconnect the keyboard from the computer.
2. Disassemble the keyboard to the point where all you have left is the two halves of the key-
board’s shell (keep the screws and small parts in a plastic baggie and keep the internal parts
somewhere away from the dust you’ll be making).
3. Put wax and grease remover on a paper towel and use it to remove all decals, stickers, etc.,
from the keyboard. (They won’t paint well and will look somewhat weird if painted.)
4. If your keyboard has any logos that you want removed, remove them now, and also remove
all traces of adhesive with wax and grease remover. If there are any depressions remaining,
sand the inside of them well with 220 grit, then fill with resin filler (e.g., Bondo). (More on
how to do this in Chapter 8.)
150
5. Using sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block, sand all the small ridges out of the plastic
with 180 grit sandpaper.When you are finished, the plastic should be smooth. Be careful not
to round over any sharp corners.You want to keep that detail.
6. Repeat the sanding procedure with 320, then 500 grit.You want the surface to have a
smooth, even appearance.
7: CHAPTER
7. Once your keyboard has a smooth, even appearance, you are ready to start the priming
process. Blow all the sanding dust off of your keyboard parts (inside and out).Wipe them
down good with wax and grease remover and allow to air dry.
8. Move the parts to the spray area.Your spray area should be well ventilated. A garage with an
open garage door should work fine.
9. Prime the parts with at least three coats of primer (details in Chapter 8).
Continues
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Procedure: Painting a Keyboard (continued)

10. Wait for the primer to cure properly (overnight would be best).
11. Wet-sand the primer with 500 grit wet/dry sandpaper and water until the primer is as
smooth as a baby’s behind.The primer will almost have a gloss to it.
12. Rinse the parts with water to remove all sanding residue.
13. Paint the parts with your choice of paint. Remember to use light coats and allow time for the
parts to dry slightly between coats.
151
■ KEYBOARDS
14. Allow parts to dry overnight and reassemble. Once reassembled, test your keyboard for func-
tionality. Here’s your finished product with the matching case.
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Note: If you want, you can paint the keycaps as well. Just lay them out on a flat, clean surface and spray
them lightly with a contrasting paint color. If you’re not a touch-typist and need the letters/symbols on the
keys, use a P-touch labeler to replace them.
Mice
Unfortunately, you now have a problem. You have the coolest looking keyboard ever,
but the mouse just looks plain yeechhh. How do you make it pop? Mod it, of course!
There are mice that look really cool and are premodded, but that’s not necessarily
what this section is about, is it? As with the keyboard, there are two main categories
of changes people make to their mice: lights and paint/cosmetic changes. In this section,
you’ll learn how to do each of those kinds of mouse mods; I’ll also discuss lighted
mousepads.
152
Optical Mouse LED Changeover

One type of mod that is very popular to do with optical mice is to change the color of
the LED on the bottom of the mouse that illuminates the mousing surface. Again, you
can do this to match the lighting color scheme on your computer.
Note: The reason mice use red LEDs is that they produce the highest contrast for the optical sensor. If you
change the LED, you may reduce the performance of your mouse as the contrast level might not be as high.
7: CHAPTER
Procedure: Optical Mouse LED Color Change

It’s very annoying to most modders to have a light somewhere in their computer that they didn’t
choose themselves. Such is the case with the (typically) red LED in most optical mice. Most mod-
ders will try to make this light match the color and lighting scheme of their modded case; for
example, changing the red LED to blue.This procedure will not work if the bottom of the mouse is
solid red plastic.
Items Needed
• Optical mouse
• Plastic baggie (zip-lock)
Continues
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Procedure: Optical Mouse LED Color Change

• Blue LED (or other matching color), high intensity—at least 2000mcd brightness and
3.7 volts
• Soldering iron and solder
Procedure Steps
1. Unplug the mouse from the computer. Remove the screws holding the two halves of the mouse
together. Save the screws in a plastic baggie or other container (you’ll need them later).
2. Pull the two halves of the mouse apart.You may have to pull forward or backward to dislodge
any clips that might be holding it together.
3. Remove the scroll wheel (if present) and set it aside in a safe place.
4. Remove the circuit board inside the mouse.You may have to either unhook some clips, or 153
remove a screw or two.
■ MICE
Continues
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Procedure: Optical Mouse LED Color Change (continued)

5. Find the original illumination LED on the PCB (circled in the graphic) and desolder it with
your soldering gun. Be sure to take notes before you desolder as to which side of the LED is
positive and which is negative (the LED won’t light if you hook it up backward). Remove the
plastic casing around the LED.
154
6. Install the new LED into the small plastic white case and reinstall the LED (and case) onto the
PCB and solder in place.This image shows me soldering the new LED into place.
7: CHAPTER
7. The LED is now installed.While the mouse is still apart, test the mouse to make sure you have
everything hooked up correctly by plugging it into a computer and making sure the mouse
works properly. If everything works, unplug the mouse and reassemble it. Make sure during
reassembly that everything is secure.
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Mouse Painting
As with keyboards, you may want the mouse to match your keyboard and system. Thus,
you might want to paint it. It is totally possible to paint a mouse to match your system.
Basically, you just need to take it apart and paint it (just like the keyboard)—the proce-
dures are completely identical. However, there are a couple of notes.
First of all, you rest your entire hand on the mouse quite frequently (more so than
your keyboard). Painted surfaces don’t absorb the oils and dirt from your hands like
regular plastic mice do, so you’ll need to clean it more often, or your nice shiny mouse
will be a grungy mess.
Also, you need to be careful if your mouse has a narrow opening for the mouse
scroll wheel. Paint tends to build up quickly and if you put too much paint on, you can
cause interference with the mouse scroll wheel. Use light coats and stop when you have
full coverage of the mouse.
Finally, on optical mice don’t paint the red plastic on the bottom or cover the
plastic that the light shines through. This may seem obvious, but I’ve seen more than 155
■ MICE
one mouse ruined because a modder wanted the color all over.
Lighted Mousepads
This isn’t a mod, per se (although you could probably make one if you wanted).
There are several companies making premodded mouse pads that have lights in them
(see Figure 7.2), and the price point is such that unless you want something that no
one makes, it’s okay to just buy one already done.
Figure 7.2 A premodded mouse pad from Xoxide.com (photo courtesy of Xoxide.com).
4360c07.qxd 9/23/04 11:01 AM Page 156
Speakers
Modded speakers are not seen very often. This is primarily because at LAN events
(where modded PCs are found in great supply), speakers are often banned, so people
just don’t bring them. But that doesn’t mean you can’t have them.
About the only thing ever done to speakers is they are painted, and that proce-
dure follows the keyboard painting procedure almost to the letter. Just take it apart,
sand it, paint it, and put it back together. However, while you have it apart, you could
change out the fabric speaker mesh for metal grating or similar, just to make it unique.
You could also change out the plastic knobs for aluminum ones (assuming you can find
them in the right size).
Monitors
Modding a monitor is also not done very often. The primary reason is that the inside
of the monitor can be a dangerous place if you don’t know what you are doing. The
156
high-voltage flyback transformer can deliver a lethal shock. Also, it may be possible to
damage a picture tube or other electronics.

However, now that it has been brought up…as with the other peripherals, for
those that do mod their monitors, it is a somewhat common practice to paint the out-
side of the monitor. While this does follow the standard “take it apart, sand it, paint,
reassemble” philosophy, there is one important item you should do: discharge the mon-
itor before disassembling or working on it. That way your chances of getting shocked
are greatly reduced.
7:
Warning:
CHAPTER
Do not attempt this if you have no knowledge of the inside of a monitor.The parts inside a
monitor can give a serious shock (at best) or kill you (at worst).
Procedure: Discharging a Monitor

If you are ever going to mod your monitor, you will most likely have to disassemble it. If you are
going to do this, you should definitely discharge the capacitors first, as they can hold a lethal charge
for a long time.This procedure will show you the steps necessary to discharge your monitor.
Items Needed
• Monitor
• Common sense
• Cash
Continues
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Procedure: Discharging a Monitor (continued)

Procedure Steps
1. Unplug your monitor.
2. Open your front door and walk to your car, carrying your monitor.
3. Open car door.
4. Place monitor on the floor in the back seat.
5. Close door.
6. Open driver’s door, get in car, close driver’s door, buckle seat belt.
7. Start car and drive to a local monitor/TV repair shop where they have the proper tools to dis-
charge a monitor.
8. Ask the person behind the counter if you can give them cash to discharge the monitor for
you, disassemble the monitor from its case, and hold the innards for a day or two. 157
■ MONITORS
9. If they agree, give them cash.
10. If they disagree, repeat steps 2–8 until you find a shop to do this (most of them will).
11. Bring your monitor’s case home and mod the $@!#$@ out of it.
Note: Forgive my attempt at serious sarcastic humor, but although some monitors are self-discharging,
I’ve had a couple of friends sent to the hospital for messing around where they shouldn’t have been. I’ve never
been charged more than $15 for a discharge (in Fargo, ND anyway—sometimes they do it for free if I do my
own disassembly). Isn’t your life and health worth $15?
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Painting
Let’s face it. The number one, all-time, largest
reason why people get into case modding is that
they didn’t like the idea of having a plain white or
beige case like everyone else’s. To that end, many
people started painting their cases different colors.
There are so many colors and color schemes that
the chances of having two cases exactly alike (or 159
■ PA I N T I N G
even similar) are staggering.
But painting a case is not like painting any other

item you’ve ever painted. There are special tech-
niques and considerations—this has to be a work-
ing computer when you are finished, after all. In
8
this chapter, you’ll learn all the different things
that need to be done when painting computers
and their parts and what constitutes good paint-
ing practices and techniques.
Chapter Contents
Paint Basics
The Painting Process
Painting Plastic
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Paint Basics
Before you even pick up a spray can or gun, before you pick out a color, you need get a
few of the paint basics down. These include:
• Paint chemistry and terminology
• Paint types
• Paint delivery
Paint Chemistry and Terminology

What?! Chemistry?! In a computer book? Yes, you’re going to have to know a bit about
chemistry in order to do successful paint jobs. In addition, you’re going to learn some
of the specialized terminology of the paint and auto body world.
RTS
RTS stands for “ready to spray.” This is paint that you buy at the hardware or auto-
160
body supply store, take home, and spray. No special mixing or additives are needed.
PA I N T I N G ■
Most paint already in spray cans can be considered RTS. Also, most auto-body sealers
are RTS (more on them later).
8:
1K
CHAPTER
1K is an abbreviation for single stage, which means you mix the paint with one other
chemical (usually a solvent of some kind) and apply it. Most primers are single stage.
2K
2K is an abbreviation for two-stage. This means that you mix the paint with two other
chemicals—in addition to a solvent, you will add some sort of hardener or catalyst to
the mix. Most urethane primers are 2K primers.
Adhesion Promoters
Adhesion promoters are special chemicals that are applied to substrates like plastic that
normally don’t accept paint at all because of their makeup or properties (like flexibility).
Adhesion promoters are sprayed on to ensure that whatever is sprayed on top (usually
a primer of some kind) will stick. They are usually clear or light colored.
Primers
A primer is a special type of paint that does one main job: it provides a uniform sur-
face that promotes adhesion of the paint to the bare metal or other substrate. Generally
speaking, you could put paint on bare metal. But chemically speaking, the two aren’t
all that compatible in the long term. A primer is designed to be the middleman between
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paint and metal. Primer adheres very well to metal. At the same time, it can fill in the
minor surface imperfections to make a smoother overall finish.
There are three different types of primers:
• Primer surfacers
• Acid etch primers
• Polyester primers
Primer surfacers are the most popular types of primers. When you buy a can of
paint for metal that just says “primer” or “acrylic primer,” you are most likely buying
a primer surfacer. Primer surfacers, in addition to doing the standard primer function
of acting as intermediary between paint and metal, are also very thick and will fill
minor surface imperfections and can be sanded perfectly smooth. In auto-body work,
body work is usually done first; then multiple coats of primer surfacer are sprayed on,
allowed to dry, and then block sanded smooth. This procedure is done multiple times
to get the flattest surface possible before any color is applied.
161
I can’t stress enough that the better your primer and priming application, the
■ PA I N T B A S I C S
better the overall job is. Painting is easy—it’s the body work and priming that are hard
to get perfect.
Note: Primer surfacers can be broken down further into single stage and two stage. By and large, the
cheaper ones are single stage and the more expensive, higher-quality ones are two stage.
An acid etch primer is a very specialized primer. It is typically used over bare
metal and the primer itself contains an acidic compound that helps the primer “bite”
into the metal. Most times, for case modding, you won’t need this kind of primer
(unless you sand all the paint off). It’s mainly used on automotive paint jobs.
Polyester primers are 2K primer surfacers that have a very high solids content.
They are the kings of surfacers. I’ve sprayed these on cars before and I can honestly say
it’s like spraying fill putty. One coat will fill deep sanding scratches. This primer is diffi-
cult to sand properly, and it can settle out quickly when sitting on a shelf. It’s always
best to buy polyester primer the day you need it and have the paint store shake it for
you on their paint shaker so it’s good and mixed.
Sealers
A sealer is a very special type of paint supply. If you have done a lot of body work
under primer or have an old finish that you want to put a new finish on, a sealer is the
chemical barrier between the primers below and the paint above. If you don’t use a
sealer, the solvents from the paint can penetrate the primer and cause the underlying
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body work to show through (or cause the sanding scratches in the body work to swell
and show).
Some sealers come as RTS, 1K, or 2K. Some shops refer to sealers as primer
sealers. Whatever the case, the sealer is the last coat applied before paint, and you do
not sand it.
Note: If you are using a good quality 2K primer, you shouldn’t need a sealer on a small job like a case mod
paint job, unless you’ve got a lot of body work.
Paint Formulations
When you buy paint and paint products (like primers and sealers) it is important that
you know the primary formulation so that you are consistent with whatever formulation
162 you choose for all the products you will be using. For example, if you use lacquer
PA I N T I N G ■
paint over an enamel finish, the “hotter” solvent in the lacquer can eat through the
enamel and cause blistering and other finish quality problems.
There are four main types of paint formulations you will see when buying paint
products:
8: CHAPTER
• Acrylic lacquer
• Acrylic enamel
• Acrylic urethane
• Base/clear systems
Acrylic lacquer is one of the older paint formulations—it’s been around since
the ‘60s. Lacquer is special because it dries when its solvents evaporate instead of by a
chemical reaction. It is extremely easy to paint with because of its very fast drying time.
The solvent in acrylic lacquer evaporates so quickly that usually by the time you’re
done painting a case, the first part of the case is dry already. Also, it’s cheap and easy
to fix problems with and will buff to a very high gloss.
There are some disadvantages, though. The solvent in acrylic lacquer (i.e., lac-
quer thinner) is volatile and will dissolve almost anything. If you choose acrylic lacquer
as your paint type, you must make sure all of the components (primer, sealer, etc.) can
withstand the power of the solvent in the paint.
Also, lacquer is not very durable. It chips with the least amount of effort. Very
few cars are painted with lacquer anymore (partially because of the hazardous nature
of lacquer, but also because of its lack of long-term durability).
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To help you determine if a paint is lacquer, Table 8.1 details some of the more
common paint manufacturers and the trade brands of their acrylic lacquer products.
Table 8.1: Common Brands of Acrylic Lacquers
Manufacturer Trade Name

DuPont Lucite
PPG (Ditzler) Duracryl
Martin-Senour (NAPA) Acrylic Lacquer System
BASF Alpha-Cryl
Akzo-Nobel (Sikkens) Autofine
Krylon Krylon Lacquer
Dupli-Color Dupli-Color Acrylic Lacquer
Acrylic enamel has also been around for quite some time. It has the benefits of
163
large color selection, high gloss, relatively low cost, resistance to chipping, and ease of
application. Enamel differs primarily from lacquer in that it cures (it doesn’t “dry” per
se). The solvents remain in the paint after application, save for a little evaporation. The
paint cures by a chemical reaction that takes place in the paint. Acrylic enamels take a
long time to fully cure in the open air, often days. In automotive paint jobs, the curing
process is often sped up in heated paint booths.
Table 8.2 lists some of the major manufacturers and their acrylic enamel brands.
Table 8.2: Common Brands of Acrylic Enamels

DuPont Centari
PPG (Ditzler) Delstar
Martin-Senour (NAPA) MS Acrylic Enamel or Crossfire Enamel
BASF (R-M) RM Acrylic Enamel
Akzo-Nobel (Sikkens) Autocryl Enamel
Krylon Krylon Acrylic Enamel
Dupli-Color Duplicolor Acrylic Enamel
Note: Most canned aerosol paint spray cans that you buy (e.g., Krylon) are acrylic enamels, although
there are a few lacquer-based products in aerosol cans.
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Note: It is possible to speed up the curing time of acrylic enamel using special additives that catalyze the
chemical reaction, making it dry much faster.
One of the newer technologies in automotive refinishing is the acrylic urethane.

It offers the speed and ease of use of lacquer with the durability and catalyzed curing
of enamel. It is more expensive than enamel but just a little more so. Acrylic urethane
is one of several reasons that lacquer and enamel aren’t used much at all anymore in
the automotive refinish business.
Of course there are drawbacks to urethanes. First of all, unfortunately for the
case modder, they aren’t readily available in spray cans. You can have it put in spray
cans, but some require a hardener or catalyst that causes the paint to harden in the
spray can, so the paint has to be used the same day.
Also, many urethanes contain isocyanates (a chemical used in the polymeriza-
164 tion/curing process). This chemical is a known carcinogen and causes serious health
PA I N T I N G ■
issues if inhaled.
Table 8.3 shows the brands of some of the more common single-stage ure-
thane paints.
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Table 8.3: Single-Stage Urethane Trade Names

CHAPTER

DuPont ChromaOne
PPG (Ditzler) Delthane or Concept
Martin-Senour (NAPA) Crossfire Urethane
BASF (R-M) R-M Urethane
Akzo-Nobel (Sikkens) Autocryl Urethane
Krylon N/A
Dupli-Color N/A
One of the most commonly used paint types isn’t really a formulation per se, but
rather a system of paint products used together. This system is known as a base coat/clear
coat (BC/CC) system, or base/clear system. It consists of a urethane base coat to provide
color, followed by a urethane clear coat to provide the shine. This clear coat can be
buffed to a high gloss and provides excellent holdout against damage. Also, metallic
paints lay down better and graphics are much easier to do because you can get the
gloss after the graphics are all finished.
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The major disadvantage to these systems is cost. In a standard base/clear system

there are no fewer than six products that must be mixed together: base color, base
reducer, base activator, clear coat, clear activator, and clear reducer. Each of these
products can get expensive in a hurry. Also, the clear coat from most manufacturers
contains isocyanates.
There are both acrylic enamel and urethane BC/CC systems, but the most com-
mon are urethane based. It is possible to do a BC/CC paint job using the acrylic enamel
products found in spray cans, but you’ll need to do more finishing work after the paint
has dried.
Table 8.4 lists some of the names of the more common BC/CC systems used in
automotive painting.
Table 8.4: Base Coat/Clear Coat System Names

DuPont ChromaSystem 165
PPG (Ditzler) Deltron DBC/DCC
Martin-Senour (NAPA) TEC-Base
Krylon N/A
Dupli-Color N/A
Note: Keep in mind that this section is about the different types of paints that could be used to paint a
case. It may not always be feasible (cost-wise).
Automotive Paints
One quick item of note: I always like to use automotive paint when painting cases. It
lays down nicer, it lasts longer, and you end up with a more professional look to the
case. Automotive paints are generally not available for sale to minors, so if you are
underage, you’ll have to have a parent help you with these products as they can be
dangerous.
Automotive-grade paint is designed to be sprayed on using paint spray equip-
ment. This equipment finely atomizes the paint and gets it to “lay out” smoothly. If
you don’t have access to this equipment, you’ll need to either borrow or rent it, or
use aerosol spray can paint instead.
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Paint Delivery
Now that you know the major types of paint, we can discuss how best to get those
paints on the parts you need to paint. For the home hobbyist, there are two main
methods of painting: the spray can and the spray gun. Both methods take the paint
and atomize it—that is, they break the paint up into a fine mist that can be directed at
a part. The finer this mist is, the more even the paint job is and the nicer it will look.
But each method differs in the way this process is done and how efficient (and costly)
the method is.
Spray Can
Most likely, everyone has used a spray can at some point in their life. A spray can is
paint, thinner, and propellant (the gas that gets the paint to come out of the can) all
contained in a single, nonrefillable can. There is usually sufficient paint in the larger,
11–12-ounce cans to paint an entire case.
166 These spray cans (often called “spray bombs”) do a remarkable job for as cheap
PA I N T I N G ■
as they are (usually under $5 each). Plus, many stores will put automotive quality paint
into a spray can for you. It’s more expensive, but if you don’t have a spray gun, it’s
worth it.
8:
Spray Gun
CHAPTER
If you are painting with automotive-grade paint, you will definitely need a spray gun.
A spray gun uses compressed air from an air compressor to atomize the paint in the
gun. Spray guns come in many different types, and a complete discussion is outside the
scope of this book. Just know that you can find some good values at your local Sears
or Harbor Freight. If you plan on doing a lot of painting, get the best gun you can
afford; you’ll thank me later. Figure 8.1 shows an example of a spray gun.
Note: Keep in mind that in addition to buying a spray gun, you’ll need a compressor capable of keeping
up with the spray gun (a fairly large one), as well as an air hose, respirator equipment, and a proper place to
use it (a garage or other area separate from the house).
Note: I’ve had excellent results with my Sharpe Platinum HVLP spray gun. It isn’t the least expensive, but
it’s not the most expensive, either. I’ve also had good success with their Cobalt line. Check out their product
line at www.sharpe1.com.
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The advantages to painting with a spray gun are that the paint lays out much
nicer and covers quicker (fewer coats are needed). Plus, you can control the paint spray
better than you can with the limited nozzle on the spray can. Finally, the variety of
paint materials you can spray is also much greater.
167
Figure 8.1 A typical spray gun
Painting Supplies
In addition to the paint, there are a few supplies you may need for doing paint and
body work on your case.
Body filler applicators These are small rubber or plastic squeegees you use to apply
body filler. You can find them in any store that sells auto-body supplies (and even in
Wal-Mart’s automotive section).
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Mixing board This is a special Masonite board with a large pad of paper installed. It is
used for mixing small amounts of body filler and provides a clean surface on which to
mix it. As you finish using it, you tear off the used portion and are presented with a
new, clean surface.
168
PA I N T I N G ■
Mixing cups If you are using automotive paint, you will need mixing cups. They are
cheap and you can even get a couple for free from the store where you buy your paint.
They are graduated on the side and will allow you to mix the paint properly.
8: CHAPTER
Stir sticks These are also available from your paint supplier for free. They are simply
pine sticks to stir paint with. You can throw them away when you’re finished.
Tack rags These are just cheesecloth rags embedded with pine tar resin and are used
for removing final traces of dust and dirt before painting.
Nitrile gloves These are gloves that are solvent-resistant and are good for using while
mixing paint to prevent getting paint on your skin. Lacquer thinner will dissolve them,
however. You can buy a box of 100 for around $6.
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Cleaning thinner (lacquer thinner) This is nothing more than cheap lacquer thinner
and should be used only for cleaning paint guns, cleaning surfaces, etc. (it should not
be used for painting). You can usually buy five gallons for around $20.
Paint strainers These are special paper funnels for pouring paint into a spray gun.
They strain out any foreign material that may have fallen into the mixing cup during
mixing. They should be free from your paint supplier (although you might have to ask
for them).
Masking tape This is special tape that sticks well and will not leave a residue when
pulled off. 3M arguably makes the best masking tape. Don’t get cheap stuff or your
work will suffer. Plus, the difference between the good stuff and the cheap stuff is a
buck or two per roll. It comes in several thicknesses and is used to tape off things you
don’t want paint on.
Masking paper This is special paper used during painting to keep paint off of areas you
don’t want paint on. It is nonporous and will not get paper lint into your paint job.
Wax and grease remover This is a special chemical you use before painting to remove 169
traces of wax and grease (and other oils from your skin) that might cause defects in the
paint job.
Lint-free paper towels These are special paper towels (like the DuPont Sontara line)
that do not leave lint behind when used on painted surfaces.
That’s the majority of the items you’ll use when painting. You may not need all
of them (you may only need the masking tape, paper, and tack rags), but it’s good to
know what else you might need to buy before you do your paint job.
Where to Paint
When painting anything—cases, cars, etc.—it’s a good idea to have a well-ventilated
area. That’s why professional painters paint in a paint spray booth that has lots of
lighting and a ventilation system that can change out the air multiple times per hour.
Obviously, the home hobbyist cannot afford to put a paint booth in their garage
(unless you are truly insane like me). However, it is possible to get adequate airflow
by opening the overhead door and any windows to get cross ventilation going.
In addition to ventilation, you want to have an area to put your parts while they
are being painted so the overspray (a term for the extra paint dust that seems to get all
over everything) won’t land on anything you care about. Plus, you need to be able to
support the parts so you can paint all sides of a part. I like to hang what are commonly
known as bicycle hooks from the joists in my garage ceiling and suspend parts from
these using thick wire (about half the diameter of coat hanger wire).
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Finally, the area you are going to paint in should be clean. Try not to paint in
the same area you create dust. A separate room is ideal, but at the very least, try to paint
across the room from that area. And, while it is a good idea to clean before you paint,
remove the parts from the area you are cleaning so the dust you kick up with the broom
doesn’t land on your freshly cleaned parts. After the dust settles down, bring the parts
back in and clean them (again) before painting.
The Painting Process

Now that you have a good handle on the basic types of paint, their differences, and
how they relate to case painting, you are ready to learn about the basics of the painting
process. The six basic steps (one of which is optional) are
• Step 1: Surface Preparation
• Step 2: Priming
• Step 3: Sanding
170
• Step 4: Sealing (optional)
PA I N T I N G ■
• Step 5: Painting
• Step 6: Finishing
8:
Step 1: Surface Preparation

CHAPTER
Before the actual painting begins, it is important to properly prepare the surface to be
painted. If the metal you are going to paint already has paint on it (and most cases do),
it is beneficial to prepare that surface to accept paint. Most generic cases are painted
with a kind of splatter paint at the factory. This is a very uneven surface and makes for
a poor substrate for painting. You can paint over this surface, just make sure to level
off the bumps with 220 grit sandpaper on a sanding block first. My personal prefer-
ence is to sand this splatter paint completely off of metal and get the surface to bare
metal before painting. The paint will stick better, and you won’t have to worry about
compatibility problems. Plus, I think the job turns out better overall.
The fastest way to remove all this paint is with a D/A sander and 80 grit sand-
paper (see Figure 8.2).
The sander can be either pneumatic or electric, as long as it does the job. I find
that a pneumatic D/A sander makes quick work of the job with a minimum of paper
changes. Put on your eye, ear, and breathing protection, load up your sander with 80
grit, then work slowly back and forth across the case.
Warning: When working on plastic do not use 80 grit! You’ll scratch the surface severely.
Use 220 grit.
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Figure 8.2 Sanding off the old case paint
171
■ T H E PA I N T I N G P R O C E S S
Warning: Be careful when sanding sheet metal that you don’t stay too long in one spot, causing the
metal to overheat and warp.
Once you have removed all the paint, you are almost ready to move on to the
next step. In order to properly prepare the substrate, you should sand the surface with
220 grit paper to make an even surface of scratches so the primer has something to bite
into. Just change the paper on the sander to 220 grit and make a couple passes over the
surface. Finally, clean any sanding dust away with compressed air, followed by wax
and grease remover (found at any paint supply store).
Note: When sanding the front plastic case bezel, sand off any detail castings (like the little symbols next
to the power and reset buttons).They won’t paint well anyway.
Plastic filler, or Bondo as it is more commonly known, is a great tool for work-
ing on cases. It is essentially a catalyzed plastic resin that hardens after a few minutes
when the two components are mixed. There are three types:
Standard filler Standard filler is used for filling in surface imperfections less than 1/8″
in depth. If you try and fill in too large of a gap or a gap that flexes, a crack will
develop. When people think of plastic filler, this is what they think of. It comes in
many different colors by many different vendors, but the one most people think of
is the Bondo brand.
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Kitty hair Kitty hair is fiberglass-reinforced plastic filler. It is essentially standard filler
with strands of fiberglass embedded throughout. Use it whenever strength needs to be
considered. It should never be used as a structural member, just as a foundation where
multiple cracks have been filled and you need a bit of extra strength.
Finishing butter Finishing butter is an extremely thin and smooth plastic filler. Use it to
fill the sanding scratches left by sanding the other two types of filler. It has little or no
strength to it and should never be used to a depth of more than 1/32″.
Figure 8.3 shows an example of the three types of filler (uncatalyzed). Notice the
difference in consistency.
172
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8:
Kitty hair Standard filler Finishing butter

CHAPTER
Figure 8.3 The three types of plastic filler
Procedure: Using Filler to Fill Imperfections in a Case

You may have an item in your case that has an imperfect seam or something you’d like to blend
just a little better.This procedure shows you how to use filler to fill some small bodywork you’ve
done on a case.
Items Needed
• Standard filler
• Mixing surface (a clean piece of glass or plastic will work)
• Paint stir stick
Continues
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Procedure: Using Filler to Fill Imperfections in a Case (continued)

• Filler applicators (different sizes)
• Multiple sandpaper grits (80, 220, 360) and a sanding block
• Lint-free paper towels
Procedure Steps
1. Grind or sand the surfaces using 80 grit (220 if using plastic) so that the filler will be adher-
ing to a smooth surface.
2. Clean the surface thoroughly using wax and grease remover to remove any oils or dirt that
might get trapped under the filler and cause it to lift later.
3. Using a stir stick, remove some filler from its can and put it on the mixing surface.
173
4. Squirt a small ribbon of catalyst from its tube onto the filler.The more catalyst you use, the
less time it takes for the filler to cure. Follow the directions that come on the package of filler
you are using to figure out the ratio of catalyst to filler. Use the stir stick to mix the two
together to an even color.
Continues
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Procedure: Using Filler to Fill Imperfections in a Case (continued)

5. Move immediately to the work area and start spreading the filler onto the work piece using a
filler spreader. If you need to put it on thickly, don’t put it all on in one coat. Use several
smaller coats, sanding in between.
174
6. Wait for the filler to harden.
PA I N T I N G ■
7. Start sanding the filler using 80 grit (220 if working on plastic) and a sanding block. Sand
until the filler has a uniform level with the surrounding work piece. Repeat steps 5–8 if nec-
essary to obtain a level surface.
Sand the repair with 220 grit. Run your hands across the piece with your eyes closed.When you
8:
8.
CHAPTER
can’t tell where the metal ends and the repair begins (this is called a feather edge), you’re finished.
9. Clean the surface.

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Step 2: Priming
As already mentioned, primer is the coat that sits between the metal and the paint and
provides filling and adhesion assistance for the paint. Now that you’ve got all the
bodywork done and the metal surface is properly prepared, it is time to prime.
Note: Choose a primer that is compatible with the final finish you intend to spray and buy it from the
same manufacturer (they will have recommendations on which primers to use).
Before you actually spray the primer, though, make sure that the surface is cleaned
properly with wax and grease remover (as mentioned earlier).
Depending on which type of primer you are using, you’ll probably need to mix it
(assuming you are using auto-body primer). In the case of spray cans, the paint comes
RTS in the cans.
175
Procedure: Priming a Part with Spray Cans
Now that your parts are properly prepared, you are ready to put primer on them in preparation for
paint. Some people overlook this step, but if you don’t prime the parts you are painting, the finish
won’t last as long and it will chip more easily.This procedure will show you how to properly prime
a part using a spray can primer.
Items Needed
• Primer (compatible with the type of paint you will be using)
• Tack rag
• Hooks and wire (for supporting parts)
• Paint respirator and nitrile gloves
Procedure Steps
1. Properly prepare the parts that you want primed (as described in “Step 1: Surface Prepara-
tion”). Mask off what you don’t want primer on. Hang the parts to be sprayed so that you can
spray in all the cracks and crevices. I like to hang my parts from the ceiling with hooks and
wire coat hangers because it allows me to spray them without dust kicking up from whatever
surface the parts might rest on. However, any flat surface will do to support the parts.
Continues
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Procedure: Priming a Part with Spray Cans (continued)
2. Wipe the part down one last time with wax and grease remover and allow it to dry.This
removes any traces of fingerprint grease or other oily contaminants from the previous user’s
176
hands.Then open the tack rag and wipe the part down again. Remember, when painting,
PA I N T I N G ■
there is no such thing as too clean!

8: CHAPTER
3. You are now ready to spray the primer.Take the top off the primer can and shake thoroughly
for three minutes (or according to directions on primer can).
4. Put on your paint respirator and nitrile gloves and begin spraying the primer. Hold the can
about 6–8 inches from the surface to be painted (but pointing right at it at a 90 degree
angle). Push the button on the can, make a pass across the part, and then let go of the but-
ton. Never just point the can at the part and start spraying.You will get thick areas of paint or
primer. If you go too slowly, the primer will run; go too fast, you’ll have dry areas.With primer,
it’s better to have lots of thin coats than to have one thick coat. It will take practice, but the
more you do it, the better you get!
Continues
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Procedure: Priming a Part with Spray Cans (continued)
5. Make another pass across the part, overlapping the spray passes by 50 percent. 177
6. Continue making passes across the part, until the entire part is covered.
7. Wait 10 minutes for the primer to flash dry.
8. Repeat steps 4–7 two more times so you have three complete coats of primer on each part.
Remember that even the best paint jobs will look terrible with a bad primer job underneath,
so take your time!
9. Allow to dry overnight before handling.
Note: If you are going to prime with automotive primer, the same steps apply. Just mix the primer
according to their directions and apply with your paint gun.You will need fewer coats, however, and use less
paint overall.
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Step 3: Finish Sanding and Cleaning

Now that you have the part primed and it has dried sufficiently, you are ready to block
sand the part to create that perfectly flat surface that looks absolutely stunning on a
case. Mirror-like cases don’t come from just having glossy paint, but having perfectly
flat surfaces as well. Ask any painter—they’ll say 95 percent of the quality of a paint
job is in the preparation and the primer work.
First of all, you’ll need to use a sanding block. Wrap your sandpaper around the
sanding block as shown in Figure 8.4. This will provide a perfectly flat surface to sand
with. Start the first sanding with 360 grit, then move to wet-sanding with 500 grit. To
wet-sand, get a bucket of water with a drop or two of dish soap in it and some wet/dry
sandpaper. Dip the sandpaper and sanding block in this water (or even better, spray it
on the surface and sanding block with a spray bottle). This soapy water will lubricate
the surface and make it easier to sand. Plus, if you keep the surface wet, the water will
help wash away the sanding residue and make the sandpaper last longer.
178
PA I N T I N G ■
Note: If you don’t have a sanding block, you can wrap sandpaper around a paint stir stick or block of wood.
Just make sure the sandpaper completely covers the block so you don’t put deep gouges in your fresh primer.
8: CHAPTER
The proper sanding technique is also important. In order to get a perfectly flat
surface, you need to sand in a cross-hatch pattern (as shown in Figure 8.5). First sand
the entire panel using long strokes in one direction, then sand 90 degrees to the first
direction. Use this technique as many times as necessary to obtain a flat surface. If you
sand through the primer (which does happen very easily on the edges of the case or any
ridges), just finish sanding the panel, apply another coat of primer, then resand.
Figure 8.4 Properly using sandpaper with

a sanding block
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Note: If you want the best paint job possible, you should prime and block sand at least three times, if not
more.The more you do this, the flatter it gets, and the more mirror-like the finish will be.
Repeat this until the panel is completely flat, has a complete coat of primer, and
is almost shiny (the 500 grit wet-sanding will put a slight gloss in the primer), so the
panels look like the one in Figure 8.6.
179
Sand with
perpendicular
strokes
Figure 8.5 Proper primer sanding technique
Figure 8.6 Finished block sanding and ready to paint

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Note: If you need help telling whether or not the panel is perfectly flat, use a guide coat, which is nothing
more than a thin coat of a contrasting color primer. Use a coat of black primer on top of a gray primer for
example.When you block sand, try to sand all the guide coat off using the cross hatch technique described.
High spots will show up with the first pass as light dots (assuming a black guide coat on a gray primer), low
spots will show up as the dark guide coat surrounded by gray primer. A guide coat will help you obtain a per-
fectly flat surface.
Step 4: Sealing
This step may be optional, depending on the formulation of the paint you are using
and how much body work you have done. Sealer sprays and looks just like the primer,
but you don’t sand it. It is just a barrier coat between the paint and primer to prevent
the solvents in the paint from lifting any bodywork. If you have properly applied a
180 good quality 2K primer over your bodywork, a sealer should not be necessary.
PA I N T I N G ■
Also, generally speaking, if you are spraying with spray cans, a sealer is not
needed, as long as you are using paint and primer from the same manufacturer. You
could do use it as an extra precaution, though.
8: CHAPTER
Note: As with primers and paints, choose a sealer that works with both so that paint compatibility prob-
lems don’t cause problems with how the finish looks or lasts.
To seal the part, just clean the part after sanding with wax and grease remover,
tack it off, and spray the sealer. You really only need one full wet coat of sealer for any
paint job. Applying more is just wasteful. A wet coat is when the paint looks wet as
you apply it. If you are holding the can too far away or move too fast, you won’t get a
pass that’s wet.
Some sealers, called wet-on-wet sealers, are designed to be applied and then
immediately painted over. The paint and sealer cure simultaneously, forming an
extremely strong bond. Others you must allow to fully cure first (usually 4–6 hours)
before painting over.
Note: It is extremely important that the cleaning be thorough for this step. If not, you may get contami-
nations caught in the paint that will get painted over. If this happens, you can lightly sand these dust “nibs”
after the sealer has a chance to cure and then respray the sealer over the repair area.
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Step 5: Painting
Whew! You’re finally ready to start painting!
First of all, put on all your protective gear (respirator, gloves, etc.). If you are
using automotive paint, you’ll want to have a full body paint suit made of Tyvek (a
nonporous material that is very durable and very cheap—you’ve seen it as overnight
envelopes from the major freight carriers). Paint fumes are hazardous to your health,
so make sure all your safety equipment is working properly.
Next, hang your parts up to prepare them for spraying (as discussed earlier).
Then, obtain a tack rag and do one final cleaning of the part you are spraying. As I’ve
said before you can never get it too clean! The tack rag is coated in pine pitch and is
designed to pick up and hold any small contaminants that might otherwise ruin your
perfect paint job, including those that might have gotten on the part. Once you have
tacked off the part, do not touch the part or raise any dust. If you do, you’ll have to
retack the part.
Next, assuming you are using spray cans, shake the cans thoroughly according 181
to the directions on the can. If you are painting with automotive paint, mix your paint
according the manufacturer’s directions. Once the paint is mixed, pour it into your
spray gun (using a paint strainer, of course), as shown in Figure 8.7.
Figure 8.7 Pouring paint into a spray gun

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Figure 8.8 Proper painting technique
Start spraying your paint as with the primer: point the paint nozzle at the part
(and perpendicular to the part), start the paint flow, move across the work piece (as
shown in Figure 8.8), and release the paint flow after you have made a pass completely
across the part. Make another pass back across the part in the same method, but over-
182
lap the first pass by 50 percent. Keep doing this, moving up a little each time until the
PA I N T I N G ■
entire panel is covered.
Note: If you are spraying enamel, spray the first coat fairly quickly so that you put on only a light coat of
8: CHAPTER
paint.This first paint coat is known as a tack coat and will help keep subsequent coats from running.
Note: You may have to make short, quick sprays of paint to get the paint into small nooks and crannies
that a normal pass won’t get adequately.
After you have put on one coat, wait 15 minutes while the first coat cures (mak-
ing sure not to raise any dust while you are waiting). Go back and put on another, full,
wet coat using the same technique as before. Do this until you have at least three full, wet
coats on the part. Then, allow the part to dry overnight.
Note: If you have trash in the paint or other imperfections (like runs), don’t worry, you’ll get them out in
the next step.
If you are using a single-colored paint, you’re done now and can move on to the
next step. If you’re using a BC/CC system, you’ll have to wait 20 minutes (or so) until
the base coat is dry, then you can mix up the clear and spray it as well. Or, if you are
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using a spray can, just start spraying the clear coats as soon as the color coat is dry.
Use the same technique, but you may have to move a bit faster because clear coat is
heavier and runs easier.
When you are finished, clean your spray can by turning it upside and spraying
until it sprays clear. Or, if you are using a spray gun, clean the gun with lacquer thinner.
Note: If you want to have a better overall finish, you can try just spraying a regular spray can color as the
base, then wet-sand, then come back and spray more color, then perform the painting procedures in Step 5,
then go back and apply the paint again and wet sand, then repeat until you have a perfectly flat base color—
then apply the clear coat—but this only works if the base coat is designed to be wet-sanded.
Procedure: Painting a Part (Acrylic Enamel Spray Cans)

183
Now that you have primer applied to your part, you are ready to paint. In this procedure, you’ll
learn how to paint a case part (could be a case side or door).
Items Needed
• Screwdrivers
• Masking tape and paper
• Sandpaper (220, 360, 500 grits)
• Sanding block
• Acrylic enamel paint in your choice of color
• Primer (compatible with chosen paint)
• Part to be painted
Procedure Steps
1. Disassemble the part and remove anything you don’t want painted. If not removable, mask it
off using good quality masking tape and nonporous masking paper.
2. Prepare the surface appropriately by sanding and doing any filler work, if necessary.
3. Clean the parts with water.
4. Tack the parts clean and spray the primer.
5. Fill any deep scratches, then sand with 220, 360, then 500 (wet/dry) grit sandpaper on a
sanding block.
6. Repeat steps 3–5 until surface is perfectly smooth.
Continues
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Procedure: Painting a Part (Acrylic Enamel Spray Cans) (continued)

7. Perform your final clean and tack off.
8. Shake the spray can according to directions on can.
9. Spray a quick mist coat of paint so that every surface has a very light coat. Allow this coat to
tack dry for 15 minutes.
10. Spray on at least three full coats of paint in even strokes, overlapping each pass by 50 per-
cent. Continue spraying until full coverage is achieved. Allow each coat to dry for 15 minutes
before spraying on the next.
11. Let paint dry overnight.
12. Finish as necessary by nib sanding, buffing, etc.
184
Step 6: Finishing
PA I N T I N G ■
Most people stop before they get to this step, but this step is the most important. This
is the step that separates the amateurs from the professionals. Finishing a paint job will
take out all the minor imperfections in the paint job and make the entire case glow like
8:
a colored mirror! In this step, you’ll learn how to properly finish a paint job, as well as
CHAPTER
what the various imperfections are and how to deal with them.
Finishing Processes
To start off, you’ll notice that the paint job most likely has a slightly mottled appear-
ance (Figure 8.9). This is called orange peel and is a result of varying shop conditions.
Don’t worry, most cars come from the factory with a little orange peel. You also may
have some dust in the paint which will form little paint “mountains.” To fix this, you’ll
block sand the paint job with very fine sandpaper and lots of water to make the paint
job flat and even before you buff it to a high gloss.
Figure 8.9 Orange peel in a paint job

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Procedure: Wet-Sanding and Polishing a Fresh Paint Job

Whenever you have done a new paint job, you’ll want to make it look as perfect as possible.To do
this, remove the slight surface imperfections by wet-sanding the new finish and then buffing it.
You should wait at least two days to allow the paint to cure before trying this process.
Items Needed
• Panel with a new paint job
• Masking tape
• 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit sandpaper
• Sanding block
• Bucket of warm, soapy water
• Lots of cotton towels (fabric diapers work great!)
• 3M Perfect-IT III Rubbing Compound 185
• 3M Machine Glaze
• Power buffer with foam buffing pads (optional)
Procedure Steps
1. Make sure your paint has cured at least two days and has sufficient paint on it (so you don’t
sand through it).
2. Put masking tape on the very edges of the panels so you don’t sand or buff through them.
Continues
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Procedure: Wet-Sanding and Polishing a Fresh Paint Job (continued)

3. Starting with the 1000 grit sandpaper, wrap the sandpaper around the sanding block and dip
it in the water. Sand the paint flat. Make sure to sand in long smooth strokes. Keep the sand-
paper very wet.When sanding do not use circular motions or cross hatching—these will be
hard to remove later. If you feel or hear scratching, stop! It means a piece of grit has gotten
caught between the sandpaper and the paint and can cause damage as you sand. Rinse off
your sandpaper and the panel and start again.
186
PA I N T I N G ■
8: CHAPTER
4. Once you have sanded the panel flat, wipe it dry with a cotton towel and look for dark spots
against the matte finish that you now have.These are low spots, and you will need to keep
sanding to wear the paint down so these are completely gone.
Low spots
Continues
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5. Switch to 1500 grit sandpaper and lightly continue sanding. Repeat this process with 2000
grit to get the panel as smooth as possible.
6. Dry the panels completely with a cotton towel.The panels should be completely flat.
187
7. Squirt some 3M Perfect-It III Rubbing Compound on the panel you have been sanding.
8. Using either a power buffer with foam compounding pad, or by hand with a clean cotton
towel, work the compound into the paint until the gloss is restored.This will take lots of
elbow grease, and the power buffer is recommended (although it can very easily burn
through the paint).
Continues
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9. Wipe off any remaining compounding residue.
10. Apply machine glaze to the panel and work it in as before with a new clean cotton towel. If
using the power buffer, switch to a foam polishing pad and go slow.
188
PA I N T I N G ■
8: CHAPTER
11. Use another clean cotton towel to wipe the residue from the panel and polish it to a high gloss.
12. After about a month, you can wax your case with a fine Carnauba wax. Until then, just keep it
clean with soap and water (when it’s powered off, of course).
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Paint Imperfections and What to Do about Them

There are, of course, lots of things that can go wrong with a paint job. In this section
you’ll learn what they are and what to do about them. Table 8.5 lists the most com-
mon paint problems you’re likely to see and what to do about them.
Table 8.5: Common Paint Problems and Solutions
Problem Cause Solutions

Fish eyes (small Oil/grease/silicone on surface Sand problem area, wipe well with wax and
pits in the finish) grease remover, and respray.
Orange peel Improper spray tempera- Wet-sand and buff.
ture or pressure
Runs Spraying too close/too slow Sand out and respray (and adjust spraying tech-
nique).You can also buy a special file that will
“shave off”the runs so they can be buffed down.
Nibs (dust/dirt Dusty environment when Keep environment clean while painting. Nibs can 189
painting be sanded and buffed out after paint has cured.
■ PA I N T I N G P L A S T I C
in paint)
Bugs in paint Bugs going where they Use a toothpick to pick the majority of the bug
shouldn’t remains out of the finish while the paint is still
tacky. Sand/buff as you would a dust nib.
Whitish haze Humidity too high (over Wait until humidity is below 50 percent or spray
or streaks 50 percent) in climate controlled area.
Painting Plastic
The main difference between painting metal and painting plastic is that plastic will
absorb the paint differently. If you look closely at the plastic parts of a computer case,
you will notice that the parts have a texture to them left over from the production
process. This texture must be sanded smooth in order for the case to accept paint prop-
erly. This is the same technique we discussed earlier in the book regarding painting key-
boards and mice.
In addition to sanding plastic smooth, you’ll need to make sure you don’t use
too coarse of a sandpaper so that you won’t put deep scratches in it.
Some people have suggested using vinyl dye to paint plastic parts. Yes, that does
work for putting color on the parts. However, you’ll have a difficult time getting it to
match the rest of the case properly. If you properly prepare the surface by sanding with
the right sandpaper grits (as mentioned earlier) and use the right amount of compatible
primer, you can get your plastic parts to accept paint properly (as long as the plastic is
compatible with the paint and won’t be melted by it).
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Other Modifications
The chapters up until now could be considered
“the basics.” Now it’s time to move on to some
other modifications. Remember that this book
9
is designed to give you some basic ideas and
how-to’s. From here you should use your own
knowledge, skills, and abilities to make some
unique creations. 191
■ O T H E R M O D I F I C AT I O N S
Chapter Contents
Adding AC Devices to a PC
Key Switch Power Switch Mod
Adding an LCD Screen
Modding Summary
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Adding AC Devices to a PC
Sometimes when modding a PC, you’ll need to add other devices that need to be plugged
in to wall power (AC). To do this, you can crack open the power supply, cut the new
power cord, fish it into the power supply, and solder it into the power leads on the inside
of the power supply. Just make sure you get the right leads from the power cord to the
right pins in the power supply’s AC power input (match up the colors: black [hot] to
black, white [neutral] to white, and green [ground] to green). Figure 9.1 illustrates those
pins and which pin is which.
The other way to do it is to get a relay card from a company like Xoxide. This
card switches AC power when the power supply is switched on so you can turn on
something like a water cooling kit. Just install the card, hook up one of the leads
from the power supply, and plug in the AC accessory into the card and the card into
the wall.
192
Note: Many water cooling kits use AC-powered pumps, so one of these cards would be a great investment
O T H E R M O D I F I C AT I O N S ■
if you have an AC water cooling pump.

9: CHAPTER
Figure 9.1 Power supply power input connections

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Key Switch Power Switch Mod

This is one of my personal favorites. I like to think of it as a trademark, since most of
the mods I do are automotive or vehicle themed. It is possible to use an automotive key
switch to turn the computer on (kinda like starting it up, huh?). Figure 9.2 shows how
this mod looks when it’s finished.
193
■ KEY SWITCH POWER SWITCH MOD

Figure 9.2 The key switch power switch mod
Procedure: Installing a Key Switch Power Switch

One of the mods that can really set your computer apart is to use an automotive key switch to turn
the computer on.
Items Needed
• Automotive key switch (you can buy one of the HELP! brands at any major auto parts stores
for around $10–$20)
• Drill with 5/8″–3/4″ drill bit (the same size as the barrel of the key switch)
• Wire cutters
• Soldering iron and rosin-core solder
• Two loop terminals
• 22-gauge wire
• Pliers or appropriately sized wrench
Continues
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Procedure: Installing a Key Switch Power Switch (continued)

Procedure Steps
1. Turn off your computer and disconnect the power.
2. Locate leads coming from the power switch to the motherboard and use wire cutters to cut
them as close as possible to the power switch. Remove the cable assembly from the computer.
194
3. Strip 1/2″ of wire from the end of the two wires and solder on two loop terminals.
4. Drill a mounting hole somewhere on the front of the computer. I’ve found that the middle of
9:
an unused faceplate works well (you may have to remove it).

CHAPTER
Continues
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Procedure: Installing a Key Switch Power Switch (continued)

5. Mount the key switch into the hole you just drilled and secure it with the collar nut(s) pro-
vided. Use the pliers to tighten the nut (or an appropriately sized wrench, if you have it).
6. Connect the power jumper cable with the terminals (the ones you modified in step 3) to the
back of the key switch. One ring terminal should be fastened to the battery (Bat or +) termi-
nal and the other to the start terminal (the one that receives power only momentarily).
195
■ ADDING AN LCD SCREEN

7. Connect the power leads back to the motherboard, close everything back up, and test the
switch.To turn the computer on, turn the switch all the way to the right (it’s spring loaded so
it may take some effort).To turn the computer off, repeat the procedure.
Adding an LCD Screen

One of the coolest things you can do with electronics in your computer is to add an
LCD screen. This screen can be used to watch videos, display system stats, or show
WinAmp or Windows Media Player visuals.
LCD screens come in different sizes but are usually fairly compact, which makes
them an ideal candidate for modding. You can buy them through many electronics
warehouses, such as Parts Express (www.partsexpress.com). A typical 4–5″ LCD with no
external controls should cost between $150 and $175.
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Procedure: Adding an LCD Screen to a Skyhawk Jupiter Case

Since it’s always cool to add more lights and more gizmos to a PC, what could be more gizmo-ish
than a real LCD display in your case?
Items Needed
• PC with a composite video out
• LCD module (known as a mobile headrest LCD)
• Soldering iron
• Drill with multiple drill bits
• Marking tool (scoring tool, pencil, marker)
• Center punch
• Dremel with reinforced cutting wheels
196
• Sheet metal (20-gauge steel)
• Aircraft shears
• Hammer
• Metal file
• Vise
• Screwdrivers
9:
• Very small sheet metal screws (#6, 1/4″)

CHAPTER
• Small motherboard standoffs with mounting screws

• #6 NF nuts
Procedure Steps
In this case, you’re going to install an LCD module in a computer that’s already been modded sig-
nificantly—known as Project: Ultimedia—into the case, which is a Skyhawk Jupiter case.
The Skyhawk Jupiter case already has a small LCD for displaying time and temperature (sur-
rounded by blinking multicolored lights), but that wasn’t flashy enough for the owner. He wants
you to put in the LCD for him.The LCD will replace this entire display.
Continues
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Procedure: Adding an LCD Screen to a Skyhawk Jupiter Case (continued)
197

The new LCD module is a 4″ LCD module obtained from Parts Express.The module comes with
installation instructions (but not for modification). Its dimensions should just fit inside the bezel of
the front panel of Skyhawk Jupiter. As you can see, it is also backlit. Keep it in its packaging until
you are ready to install it.
Continues
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1. To begin installing the module, unplug the computer and remove the front panel from the
case (you may have to cut some wires running to the front LCD module—but you won’t be
using it again, so that’s okay). Lay the front face down on your work surface, then remove the
four screws holding the LCD module in place.
198
2. There is a chromed plastic bezel that you will remove. In order to mount the LCD module
into the front of the case, you’re going to need to make a mounting plate out of sheet steel.
9:
Trace the chromed plastic bezel onto a piece of sheet metal (make it about 1/8″ bigger on all
CHAPTER
sides—you can trim it later).
Continues
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3. Cut the mounting place out with a Dremel or aircraft shears (the latter work the best for this
square piece). Hammer the edges flat.Then mark and drill the four holes that match up with
the mounting studs on the back of the front case face panel.
199

4. Test the fit of the sheet metal piece.Trim as necessary to make sure the panel fits inside the
case face panel and the holes match up with the mounting studs.
Continues
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5. Take the LCD out of its back and flip it over onto the metal panel you just made.Trace around
the screen with your marking tool.You are going to be making an opening for this screen to
slip through. Cut out the marked opening with your Dremel tool and cutoff wheel.
200
6. Test fit the LCD. If you made your line and cut accurately, it should fit with no problem.You
may need to file the inside edges of the cut to make them square anyway, plus you can use
the file to make minor adjustments to the fit.
9:
7. There are four mounting tabs on the LCD itself.To get them to work with the bezel you’ve just
CHAPTER
made, you’re going to use standard motherboard standoffs with small #6 NF nuts. Mark the
locations of the holes on the motherboard (poke a pencil through the mounting tabs onto
the new bezel). Center punch and drill the holes for the mounting screws (the bit size should
be smaller than the outside size of the standoff so they don’t poke through).
Continues
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8. Mount the LCD into the frame with the mounting screws into the standoffs and the standoffs
bolted to the LCD’s mounting tabs.
9. Mount the new bezel into the case’s front panel and secure it with the four screws you took
out earlier.
201

10. Prepare to install the case front back onto the case. However, you may have to use your
Dremel to cut the front metal of the case so that the back of the LCD panel doesn’t interfere
with the front of the case (and possibly short out).
11. Once you have made the final adjustments, install the front case panel back onto the case
and hook up power and video cables. Many of the LCDs have power connectors of their own
(they are 12V, so you’ll need to hook up their 12V+ to the 12V of a female Molex connector
and their ground to the ground of the same Molex connector before you can plug it in), and
their video connector can run to the back of the case through an unused PCI slot cover and
connect to the composite out of your video card (the RCA jack or an S-Video-to-RCA adapter).
See the LCD’s included instructions for definite hookup instructions.
Continues
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202
12. You are done. Configure the video card to recognize the monitor as a second monitor.You
can now configure WinAmp to display visualizations on the second monitor.
9: CHAPTER
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Go For It!
This book is just a beginning. Use your own creativity to come up with ideas for dif-
ferent types of mods. Just about anything is possible. Want a computer that doubles
as a fountain? Go for it! (Just as long as the water and computer are completely
separate.) The how-to’s in this book can serve as a launching pad for many different
types of mods. I wish you great success in your modding efforts. I’ll post some of
mine at http://www.davidgroth.com/mods from time to time. Feel free to e-mail me at
david@davidgroth.com with pics of your mods, as well. I love the art and creativity of
all of the different mods I see. Happy modding!
203
■ GO FOR IT!
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Index
ATX power connector,
Numbers 70–71, 71
C
1K (one stage) paints, 160 automotive key switch, cable management, 61–75
2K (two-stage) paints, 160 193–195, 193–195 overview of, 61
automotive paint, 162–165 rounded IDE cables,
aviation snips, 13, 13 61–62, 62
A sleeves, 66–67, 66–75,
72–75
abrasive etching, 87–88,
87–89
B tie downs, 64–65, 64–65
zip ties, 62–64, 62–64
AC (alternating current) backing up data, before hard
cache, 139
adding AC devices to drive mod, 105
Campbell, Jerami, Color
PCs, 192 basic mods, 42–76
Plate:10
inverter from DC, 48 cable management, 61–75
204 CAS (Column Address Strobe),
acid etch primers, 161 overview of, 61
140–141
INDEX ■
acrylic enamel paint, 163, rounded IDE cables,

case fans
183–184 61–62, 62
case fan (blowhole),
acrylic lacquer paint, 162–163 sleeves, 66–67, 66–75,
122–123, 122–124
acrylic, premodded cases, 96, 96 72–75
front intake case fan, 118
acrylic urethane paints, tie downs, 64–65, 64–65
quiet, 133
164–165 zip ties, 62–64, 62–64
rear exhaust case fan, 118
activity LEDs, 100–104 decals, 55–60
case mods, 2, 77–97
CD-ROM and floppies, case wraps, 57, 57–60,
case windows, 79
101–104, 102–103 58–60
appliqués (etching
front panel, 100–101, 101 custom made, 56
decals), 90–92,
hard drives, 100–101 kits, 55–56
91–92
overview of, 100 overview of, 55
bubble or fish tank, 94
adhesion promoters, 160 lighting, 42–55
chemical etching, 89
adhesives. see glues cold cathodes, 49–50, 50
cutting plexiglass to fit,
aesthetics, cable management, 61 EL tape, 51, 51–52
82–84, 83–84
air compressors, 29 EL wire, 52, 52–54, 53
cutting window hole,
air cooling, CPUs, 127–128 LEDs, 42, 42–47, 44
79–82, 80–82
airbrushes, 30 neon lights, 47,
gasket installation,
airflow, cable management 47–49, 48
84–85, 85–86
and, 61 other options, 54–55
installing, 85–87
alternating current (AC) overview of, 42
mechanical etching,
adding AC devices UV lights, 54
87–88, 87–89
to PCs, 192 battery-powered drills, 23
overview of, 78
inverter from DC, 48 BC/CC (base coat/clear coat)
plasma, 93, 93
amdlogo, in mod showcase, system, 164–165, 182
sandblasting to etch, 90
A:11 bending brake, 30, 30
UV reactive options, 94
anode lead, LEDs, 43–44 black lights, 54
gamers and, 3
antistatic bag, 10 body filler applicators, 167
laptops, 97
antistatic wrist strap, 9 breathing masks/filters, 5–7
premodded, 94–96
appliqués (etching decals), bubble case window, 94
acrylic, 96, 96
90–92, 91–92 buffing wheel, dremel, 22, 22
metal, 95, 95
4360indx.qxd 9/23/04 11:03 AM Page 205
case windows, 79 cold cathodes, 49–50, 50, 54 fans, 118

appliqués (etching decals), Column Address Strobe (CAS), heat sinks lapping,
90–92, 91–92 140–141 129–130, 130
bubble or fish tank, 94 Complementary Metal Oxide liquid cooling, 131, 131
chemical etching, 89 Semiconductor (CMOS), 8 overclocking, 136–138
cutting plexiglass to fit, Computer-Choppers.com, Peltier cooling devices, 132
82–84, 83–84 Color Plate:11 performance, 136
cutting window hole, computer mods, 2 phase change cooling, 132
79–82, 80–82 connectors thermal compound, 128,
gasket installation, 84–85, ATX power connector, 128–129
85–86 70–71, 71 CRT monitor, not wearing ESD
installing, 85–87 floppy power connector, strap while working on, 10
mechanical etching, 87–88, 69–70 cutouts. see drive windows
87–89 depinning, 70–71 (cutouts)
overview of, 78 uses of, 68–69 cutting wheel, dremel, 20, 20
plasma, 93, 93 molex connectors, 68
sandblasting to etch, 90 depinning, 69
UV reactive options, 94 for neon lights, 49 D
case wraps, 57, 57–60, 58–60 uses of, 68
applying, 58–60 power supply, 67 D/A (dual action) sander, 31,
overview of, 57 controls, fan 31, 170
DC (direct current), to AC 205
cathode lead, LEDs, 43–44 digital, 124–125, 125
■ INDEX
CD-ROM drives fanbus, 124 inverter, 48
activity LEDs, 101–104, cooling modifications, 117–133 decals, 55–60
102–103 chipsets, 126, 126 appliqués (etching decals),
drive windows (cutouts), CPUs, 127, 127–132 90–92, 91–92
104, 108–111, air cooling, 127–128 case wraps, 57, 57–60,
109–111 heat sinks lapping, 58–60
center punch, 17, 17 129–130, 130 custom made, 56
CFM (cubic feet per minute), liquid cooling, 131, 131 kits, 55–56
fan speeds, 119 Peltier cooling devices, overview of, 55
Chameleon Dragon, in mod 132 depinning connectors (removing
showcase, Color Plate:12 phase change cooling, connector pins)
charcoal filters, 6 132 from floppy power connec-
chemical etching, of case win- thermal compound, 128, tor, 70–71
dows, 89 128–129 from molex connector, 69
chemicals, 32–35 fans, 118, 118–125 overview of, 67–69
glues and adhesives, 32–34 adding case fan (blow- Deuce, in mod showcase, Color
overview of, 32 hole), 122–123, Plate:14
paints, 32 122–124 digital fan controllers,
safe handling, 8 controls, 124–125, 125 124–125, 125
solvents and cleaners, 34–35 functions of, 118 Digital-World, Color
chipsets grilles, 120–121, 121 Plate:8–Color Plate:9
cooling, 126, 126 sizes and air direct current (DC), to AC
fans, 118 movement, 119 inverter, 48
cleaners/cleaning types of, 119, 119–120 disk subsystem, 139
in paint preparation, hard drives, 126 Dols, Chris, Color Plate:13
178–179, 178–180 memory, 125 DragonModz.net, Color
safe handling, 8 silent cooling methods, Plate:12
types of, 34–35 132–133, 133 dremel, 19, 19–22
clock multiplier, 136 cooling, overclocking and, buffing wheel, 22, 22
clothing, safety and, 4 137–138 cutting case windows
CMOS (Complementary Metal CPUs, 127, 127–132 with, 79
Oxide Semiconductor), 8 air cooling, 127–128 cutting wheel, 20, 20
4360indx.qxd 9/23/04 11:03 AM Page 206
cutting window in CD- etching case windows front panel of case, activity
ROM drive with, 110 appliqués (etching decals), LEDs, 100–101, 101
engraving bits, 20–21, 21 90–92 Front Side Bus (FSB), 136
flex shaft, 22, 22 chemical etching, 89 FSB (Front Side Bus), 136
list of attachments, 19–20 mechanical etching, 87–88,
sanding drums, 20–21, 21 87–89
drill, 23–24 sandblasting, 90 G
drill bits, 23, 23 evil inside, in mod showcase,
drill press, 28 Color Plate:6 gamers, case mods and, 3
drive modifications, 99–116 eye protection gaskets, plexiglass case win-
activity LEDs, 100–104 chemical safety and, 8 dows, 84–85, 85–86
CD-ROM and floppies, equipment, 4–5 Gloom aka G3, in mod show-
101–104, 102–103 case, Color Plate:16
front panel, 100–101, 101 gloves
hard drives, 100–101 F chemicals and, 8
nitrile gloves for
overview of, 100
drive windows (cutouts) FABA (forced air breathing painting, 168
CD-ROM drives, 104, apparatus), 6–7, 7 safety and, 5
108–111, 109–111 fanbus, fan controls, 124 glues, 32–34
hard drives, 104–107, fans, 118, 118–125 epoxy, 34
104–108 adding case fan (blowhole), gluing case window
206 122–123, 122–124 to case, 86
stealthing CD-ROM drives,
INDEX ■
111–115, 112–115 controls, 124–125, 125 Goop, 34

drive windows (cutouts) functions of, 118 hot glue, 33
CD-ROM drives, 104, grilles, 120–121, 121 overview of, 32–33
108–111, 109–111 sizes and air movement, 119 goggles, eye protection, 4
hard drives, 104–107, sound deadening Goop, 34, 86, 108
104–108 materials, 133 grilles, fan, 120–121, 121
dual capable inverters, 50 types of, 119, 119–120
dust masks, 5 Fargo fire department, in mod
dust, painting and, 170 showcase, Color Plate:5 H
files (tool), 18, 18
fillers, 172–174, 172–174 hand tools, 11–18
aviation snips, 12
E applicators for, 167
filling imperfections in case, center punch, 17
ear protection 172–174 files, 18
ear plugs, 5 types of, 171–172 marking and measuring,
metal cutting and, 7 filters, breathing protection, 14–15
EL (electroluminescent) 5–7 overview of, 11
tape, 51, 51–52 finishing butter, 172 riveting tool, 13–14
wire, 52, 52–54, 53, finishing, in painting process, sandpaper, 16–17
147–148 184–188, 184–189 screwdrivers, 12
electrostatic discharge (ESD). fish tank case window, 94 socket set, 12
see ESD flex shaft, dremel, 22, 22 wrenches, 13
(electrostatic discharge) floppy drives, activity LEDs, Harbor Freight, 5
engraving bits, dremel, 101–104, 102–103 hard drives
20–21, 21 floppy power connectors, activity LEDs, 100–101
epoxy, 34 68–70, 69–70 cooling, 126
ESD (electrostatic discharge), depinning, 70–71 drive windows (cutouts),
8–10 uses of, 68–69 104–107, 104–108
antistatic bag for parts, 10 forced air breathing apparatus performance enhancements,
antistatic wrist strap, 9, (FABA), 6–7, 7 139
9–10 front intake case fan, 118 heat pipes, CPUs, 128, 128
overview of, 8–9 as silent cooling method, 132
4360indx.qxd 9/23/04 11:03 AM Page 207
heat sinks LEDs (light emitting diodes), cutting case windows, 79

CPUs, 128 42, 42–47, 44 with laser or water jet
lapping, 129–130 activity LEDs, 100–104 cutter, 32
overview of, 125 CD-ROM and floppies, nibbler, 24
thermal compounds, 101–104 power shear, 25–26
128–129 hard drives, 100–101 safety, 7–8
Hellbound, in mod showcase, overview of, 100 metal, premodded cases, 95, 95
Color Plate:15 desoldering, 102 mice, 152–155
hot glue, 33 keyboards, 148 lighted mouse pad, 155, 155
hot glue gun, 28 LED fan lights, 54 optical mouse LED color,
HVLP spray guns, 29 LED tubes, 54 152–154, 153–154
mice, 152–154 overview, 152
mounting, 46–47 painting, 155
I overview of, 42–43 mixing board, 168, 168
rating, 43 mixing containers, 168, 168
IDE cables, changing flat to wiring and resistors, 43–46, mnpctech.com, Color
rounded, 61–62 44, 46 Plate:14–Color Plate:15
inverters lighting, 42–55 mod showcase, Color
dual capable or cold cathodes, 49–50, 50 Plate:1–Color Plate:16
dual-ready, 50 EL tape, 51, 51–52 amdlogo, Color Plate:11
for neon lights, 48 EL wire, 52, 52–54, 53 Chameleon Dragon, Color 207
fans, 120 Plate:12
■ INDEX
keyboards, 144–148, Deuce, Color Plate:14
J 144–148 evil inside, Color Plate:6
Jordon, Phillip, Color Plate:12 LEDs, 42, 42–47, 44 Fargo fire department,
Jupiter Skyhawk case, adding mouse pads, 155, 155 Color Plate:5
LCD screen to, 196–202, neon lights, 47, 47–49, 48 Gloom aka G3, Color
196–202 other options, 54–55 Plate:16
overview of, 42 Hellbound, Color Plate:15
UV lights, 54 Narcosis, Color Plate:10
K lint-free paper towels, painting
supplies, 169
Poseidon, Color
Plate:8–Color Plate:9
key-operated power switch, liquid cooling, CPUs, 131, 131 Sybex mod, Color
193–195, 193–195 Lucite, for case windows, 82 Plate:2–Color Plate:3
keyboards, 143–151 modded, 2, 2
LEDs, 148 modders, 2, 3
lighting, 144–148, 144–148 M modification, introduction to
overview, 143 chemicals
painting, 149–151, 150–151 marking tools, 14–15 glues and adhesives,
kits, decals, 55–56 masking tape, 169 32–34
kitty hair filler, 172 Material Safety Data Sheets overview of, 32
(MSDS), 8 paints, 32
measuring tools, 14–15 solvents and cleaners,
L mechanical etching, of case
windows, 87–88, 87–89
34–35
definitions, 2
lacquer thinner, 34, 169 memory hand tools, 12–18
lapping, heat sinks, 129–130 cooling, 125 aviation snips, 13
laptops, case mods, 97 overclocking and, 137 center punch, 17
laser cutter, 32 performance enhancements, files, 18
latency, of memory, 140 140–141 marking and measuring,
Lazer LEDs, 42, 47 metal bending, 30 14–15
LCD screens, adding as case metal cutting riveting tool, 13–14
mod, 195–202 aviation snips, 13 sandpaper, 16–17
4360indx.qxd 9/23/04 11:03 AM Page 208
screwdrivers, 12 for neon lights, 49 paint chemistry

socket set, 12 uses of, 68 and terminology,
wrenches, 12 monitors 160–162
overview of, 2–3 discharging, 156–157 paint formulations,
prerequisites for not wearing ESD strap 162–165
disassembling existing while working supplies needed,
PC, 36–37 on CRTs, 10 167–169
overview of, 35 painting, 156 cutting case windows
part purchase, 35–36 mounting bases, for zip and, 80
theme selection, 35 ties, 53, 53 dealing with imperfections
safety, 4–10 mouse pads, lighted, 155, 155 in paint job, 189
breathing masks and MSDS (Material Safety Data keyboards, 149–151,
filters, 5–7 Sheets), 8 150–151
chemical safety, 8 Mullins, Gary, Color Plate:16 mice, 155
ear protection, 5 multiplier locking, 137 monitors, 156
ESD and, 8–10 overview, 159
eye protection equip- plastic, 189
ment, 4–5 N process
gloves, 5 applying paint to pre-
metal and, 7–8 Narcosis, in mod showcase, pared surface,
tool safety, 8 Color Plate:10 181–184, 182
208 neon lights, 47, 47–49, 48
small power tools, 18–28 filling imperfections in
INDEX ■
dremel, 19–22 nibbler, 24, 24–25, 25, 79 case, 172–174,

drill, 23–24 nitrile gloves, 5, 168 172–174
hot glue gun, 28 nylon cable ties. see zip ties finishing, 184–188,
nibbler, 24–25 184–189
overview of, 18 priming, 175–177,
power shear, 25–26 O 176–177
soldering iron or gun, ohms, resistor ratings, 45 sanding and cleaning,
26–28 oil canning, 24 178–179, 178–180
specialized tools, 28–32 optical mouse LED color, sealing, 180
air compressor, 29 152–154, 153–154 surface preparation,
bending brake, 30 orange peel, in paint jobs, 184 170–172, 171
D/A sander, 31 overclocking speakers, 156
drill press, 28 CPU, 136–138 spray guns, 29–30
laser or water jet overview, 136 painting respirators, 5–6, 6
cutter, 32 video, 138–139, 139 paints
spray gun, 29–30 Owen, Bill, Color acrylic enamel paint, 163
tips Plate:14–Color Plate:15 acrylic lacquer paint,
clean workspace, 38 162–163
collecting parts and tools acrylic urethane paints,
beforehand, 38–39
know limitations, 38
P 164–165
automotive, 165
overview of, 37 paint chemistry, 160–162 BC/CC (base coat/clear
planning, 37–38 paint formulations, 162–165 coat) system, 164–165
tools generally, 10 paint strainers, 169 chemical safety and, 8, 32
warnings, 3–4 painting, 159–190 solvents for, 34
workspace, 10–11 basics of parts
mods, 2 automotive paint, antistatic bag for, 10
ModTheMachine.com, Color 162–165 collecting beforehand,
Plate:13 delivery systems, 38–39
molex connectors, 68 166–167 destroying during
depinning, 69 environment for, modification, 4
169–170
4360indx.qxd 9/23/04 11:03 AM Page 209
priming, 175–177 Poseidon, in mod showcase, ear protection, 5

purchasing for modification Color Plate:8–Color ESD and, 8–10
project, 35–36 Plate:9 eye protection, 4–5
Parts Express, 195, 197 power shear, 25–26 gloves, 5
PC power supplies metal and, 7–8
disassembling existing, adding AC devices to PCs, tool safety, 8
36–37 192, 192 sandblasting, case windows, 90
parts for building from connectors for, 67 sanding, 178–179, 178–180
scratch, 36 fans, 118 D/A (dual action) sander, 31
Peltier cooling devices, sleeving cables, 73–75 finish sanding, 178–179
CPUs, 132 power tools, 8. see also small high gloss finishes and, 184
pencil, as marking tool, 15 power tools surface preparation, 170
performance modifications, Powerstrip utility, for video wet sanding, 185–188
135–142 overclocking, 138 sanding blocks, 178–179,
disk subsystem, 139 premodded cases, 94–96 178–179
memory, 140–141 acrylic, 96, 96 sanding drums, dremel,
overclocking metal, 95, 95 20–21, 21
CPU, 136–138 prerequisites, for mods sandpaper, 16–17
overview, 136 disassembling existing PC, score and snap method, of cut-
video, 138–139, 139 36–37 ting plexiglass, 83
overview, 135 overview of, 35 screwdrivers, 12 209
peripheral modifications, part purchase, 35–36 scribe, 15, 15
■ INDEX
143–157 theme selection, 35 SCSI drives, 139
keyboards, 143–151 primers, 160–161 sealers, 161–162
LEDs, 148 function of, 160–161 sealing, 180
lighting, 144–148, priming process, 175–177, Serial ATA drives, 139
144–148 176–177 showcase. see mod showcase
overview, 143 types of, 161 silent cooling methods,
painting, 149–151, Prometeia Mach II, 132–133, 133
150–151 Chip-Con, 132 sleeves, 66–75
mice, 152–155 choosing, 66–67, 66–67
lighted mouse pad, 155, depinning connectors
155 R (removing connector
optical mouse LED pins)
color, 152–154, RAM from floppy power con-
153–154 CAS Latency, 141 nector, 70–71
overview, 152 cooling, 125 from molex connector, 69
painting, 155 RAS (Row Address Strobe), 140 overview of, 67–69
monitors, 156–157 ready to spray (RTS), 160 installing, 72–75, 72–75
speakers, 156 rear exhaust case fan, 118 overview of, 66
phase change cooling, resistors, LEDs, 44, 44–46 reinstalling pins, 72
CPUs, 132 riveting process, 14 small power tools, 18–28
planning, modification projects, riveting tool, 13–14 dremel, 19–22
37–38 rounded IDE cables, 61–62, 62 drill, 23–24
plasma, case windows, 93, 93 Row Address Strobe (RAS), 140 hot glue gun, 28
plastic, painting, 189 RTS (ready to spray), 160 nibbler, 24–25
plexiglass rulers, 15 overview of, 18
case windows, 82–84, power shear, 25–26
83–84 soldering iron or gun,
score and snap method of S 26–28
cutting, 83–84 safety, 4–10 Snider, Barry “Digital-World”,
polyester primers, 161 breathing masks and Color Plate:8–Color
pop-riveting tool, 13 filters, 5–7 Plate:9
pop rivets, 13 chemical safety, 8 socket set, 12
4360indx.qxd 9/23/04 11:03 AM Page 210
soldering thermal compound, CPUs, 128,

desoldering, 102 128–129
V
how to, 26–28, 27 thermo-electric coolers Vcore, 137
soldering iron/gun, 26, 102 (TECs), 132 ventilation, when painting, 169
solvents, 5, 34–35 thinners vibration dampening, 133
sound deadening materials, 133 chemical safety and, 8 video cards
speakers, painting, 156 painting supplies, 169 fans for video card
specialized tools, 28–32 tie downs, cable management, chipsets, 118
air compressor, 29 64–65, 64–65 overclocking, 138–139, 139
bending brake, 30 tolerance, of resistors, 45 voltage, 137
D/A sander, 31 tools
drill press, 28 collecting beforehand,
laser or water jet cutter, 32 38–39 W
spray gun, 29–30 hand tools
speed sensors, fans, 119 aviation snips, 13 warnings, 3–4
spray cans center punch, 17 warranty, voiding, 3
as paint delivery system, 166 files, 18 water cooling, 131, 192
priming with, 175–177 marking and measuring, water jet cutters, 32
spray guns 14–15 wax and grease removers, 34,
filling with paint strainer, riveting tool, 13–14 169, 176
181, 181 sandpaper, 16–17 wet-on-wet sealers, 180
210
as paint delivery system, overview of, 10 wet sanding, 185–188
INDEX ■
166–167, 167 safety, 8 windows (cutouts). see drive

as specialized tool, 29–30 small power tools windows (cutouts)
square, hand tools, 15, 16 dremel, 19–22 wiring, LEDs, 43–46, 46
standard filler, 171 drill, 23–24 workspace
stealthing CD-ROM drives, hot glue gun, 28 clean workspace as project
111–115, 112–115 nibbler, 24–25 prerequisite, 38
stir sticks, painting supplies, 168 power shear, 25–26 setting up, 10–11
straight edge, hand tools, 16, 16 soldering iron or gun, wrenches, 12
surface preparation, for paint- 26–28
ing, 170–172, 171 specialized tools
Sybex mod, in mod showcase, air compressor, 29 X
Color Plate:2–Color bending brake, 30 Xoxide.com
Plate:3 D/A sander, 31 decal kits from, 55
drill press, 28 fan grilles, 121
laser or water jet sleeves from, 66
T cutter, 32
spray gun, 29–30
tack rags
painting supplies, 168
TTL (Transistor-Transistor
Logic) chips, 8
Z
using before painting, 181 Zalman, 132
tape measure, 14 zip ties
TECs (thermo-electric
coolers), 132
U cable management with,
62–64, 62–64
theme selection, for modifica- UV lights, 54 popular uses of, 63–64
tion project, 35 UV reactive, 94, 120 securing EL wire, 53, 53
4360Color.qxd 9/23/04 11:44 AM Page 1
PC Chop Shop
Modding Showcase
Welcome to the PC Chop Shop Modding Showcase, a gallery of colorful PC eye

candy displaying the imagination and unique personalities of modders and
their machines. Use this showcase to spark your creative energy, build your
own special mod, and maybe your creation will be in the next edition of
PC Chop Shop! A special thanks to Gary “Glitterkill” Mullins and the folks at
PimpRig.com for their fantastic contributions to this showcase.
4360Color.qxd 9/23/04 11:08 AM Page 2
■
PC CHOP SHOP MODDING SHOWCASE
This is the mod I built for Sybex as part of writing the book. On one side there is the Sybex logo laser-cut into a window with a
Luminglas panel behind it. It really sets off the logo. On the other side, I had a friend laser cut the Sybex logo out of stainless steel.
The entire rig is water cooled with parts from Xoxide, and is powered by Corsair Memory with their XMS Pro series of memory
modules.The system specs are:
• Asus A7N8X-E Deluxe motherboard • 80GB SATA HD
• AMD 2500 Mobile Processor overclocked to 2.75GHz • 42x CD-RW
• 1GB Corsair XMS Pro memory • Custom Watercooling kit
4360Color.qxd 9/23/04 11:08 AM Page 3
■
4360Color.qxd 9/23/04 11:08 AM Page 4
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4360Color.qxd 9/23/04 11:08 AM Page 6
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4360Color.qxd 9/23/04 11:08 AM Page 8
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Poseidon by Barry “Digital-World” Snider

digitalworld@pimprig.com
4360Color.qxd 9/23/04 11:08 AM Page 9
■
DW-Rig by Barry “Digital-World” Snider
digitalworld@pimprig.com
4360Color.qxd 9/23/04 11:08 AM Page 10
■
Narcosis by Jerami Campbell

jerami@lucentrigs.com
A dream can be a goal, a creation of the imagination, or a series of thoughts and images while asleep.These
three ideas fit “Narcosis”. Very few people imagine glass as a form for a computer, while even fewer envision a
lava lamp. My goal was to incorporate both glass and lava into a computer. After six months of sketching, experi-
mentation, and dreaming, I figured out how to do it.Twenty days, or 52 work hours, later Narcosis was complete.
This case was assembled by normal stained glass techniques using a soldering iron, copper tape, flux, and solder.
Unlike normal stained glass, the shell of this case is an opaque black glass. The internal structure and bays are
clear glass. The base is a 1⁄2″ thick mirror. There is a total of 147 hand-cut pieces of glass in this case.
4360Color.qxd 9/23/04 11:08 AM Page 11
■
amdlogo by Alex from Computer-Choppers.com
alex@computer-choppers.com
4360Color.qxd 9/23/04 11:08 AM Page 12
■
Chameleon Dragon by Phillip Jordon of DragonModz.net

lokie@pimprig.com
4360Color.qxd 9/23/04 11:08 AM Page 13
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Case by Chris Dols of ModTheMachine.com

pcmods@gmail.com
4360Color.qxd 9/23/04 11:08 AM Page 14
■
Deuce by Bill Owen of mnpctech.com

mnpctech@mnpctech.com
4360Color.qxd 9/23/04 11:08 AM Page 15
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Hellbound by Bill Owen of mnpctech.com

mnpctech@mnpctech.com
4360Color.qxd 9/23/04 11:08 AM Page 16
■
GlitterKill’s Glitter-Gloom aka G3

(G Cubed) by Gary “GlitterKill”
Mullins of PimpRig.com
glitterkill@pimprig.com
The goal of this project was to create a powerful, silent, and aesthetically-pleasing cube case to be used as my main system.
After over 6 months of preparation I finally achieved my goal. Using a custom laid-out MountainMods.com cube case (I pro-
vided the specs to them for creation), I filled the case with high-end hardware; a chromed, top-notch watercooling setup; and
a tricked-out Vantec Stealth PSU. The basic color scheme and theme of the project was to use black, chrome, and UV-lighting
along with my custom tribal artwork. I named the case G3 (or G-Cubed)–GlitterKill’s Glitter-Gloom. (This is also a pun on the
case itself being a cube.)

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4360FM.

qxd 9/23/04 10:59 AM Page i

San Francisco • London

San Francisco • London

Associate Publisher: JOEL FUGAZZOTTO

To everyone who ever disassembled anything to see how it worked.

Smack ya rig up!

Chapter 1 Introduction to PC Modification 1

Chapter 2 Basic Modifications 41

Chapter 3 Case Modification 77

Chapter 4 Drive Modifications 99

Chapter 5 Cooling Modifications 117

Chipset Cooling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126

Chapter 6 Performance Modifications 135

Chapter 7 Peripheral Modifications 143

Chapter 8 Painting 159

Chapter 9 Other Modifications 191

In this chapter, you will learn about what computer

The What, Why, and Who of Modification

Figure 1.1 A sample modded case

Who Is Doing It?

Breathing Masks and Filters

Figure 1.2 A sample painting respirator

rator’s filter cartridges.

Preventing Electrostatic Discharge (ESD)

Antistatic Wrist Strap

Pin connects to ground pin ESD strap

Outlet Figure 1.4 Proper ESD strap connection

Antistatic Bags for Parts

before we get to the projects themselves.

Basic Hand Tools

Figure 1.5 Aviation shears

Figure 1.6 How riveting works

Marking and Measuring Tools

Figure 1.7 A square and a straight edge

Figure 1.8 A center punch

Small Power Tools

when modding computers, including:

Figure 1.9 Proper use of a file

Figure 1.10 A Dremel high-speed rotary multitool

Figure 1.11 Dremel cutting wheel examples

Figure 1.12 Dremel sanding drum

Figure 1.14 A Dremel buffing wheel

Figure 1.15 A Dremel with a flex-shaft

Table 1.1: Drill Bits

Standard metal bit Drilling holes in metal.

Figure 1.16 A pneumatic nibbler

Soldering Iron or Gun

Procedure: How to Solder

Procedure: How to Solder (continued)

4. Place soldering iron underneath connection and heat connection.

Hot Glue Gun

Other Specialized Tools

Note: We’ll cover paint application in more detail in Chapter 8,“Painting.”

Figure 1.18 A sheet metal brake

Laser or Water Jet Cutter

Glues and Adhesives

Solvents and Cleaners

be careful when using it.

Purchasing the Needed Parts

4. Paint and detail.

Note: Steps 1 and 2 often take place simultaneously, as do steps 5 and 6.