Expert Flattening System - QS5 - Uk

Expert Flattening System Manual Page 1 By Torielli
Shoemaster Expert Flattening System

&
Shoemaster Expert Measures
and Proportions System
31/10/2005
For QS 5.02 and Later
CONTENT
- Introduction Page: 3
- Description Page: 5
- Method Grano Page: 9
- Method Spring Page: 17
- Method Free Asymmetric Page: 21
- Method Orthopaedic Page: 26
- Method Moccasin Page: 29
- Last Measure Page: 46
INTRODUCTION
This work is dedicated to Carmelo Grano, a great Italian technician of high quality shoes.
Thanks to his co-operation and incentive, we have been able to give to our Cad 3D
Shoemaster System the necessary know-how for the development of the first Expert System
of the shoe sector.
Carmelo Grano can be considered as one of the Main Italian Shoe Technician, all his
professional activity has been dedicated to this sector. It is worth to remember the long co-
operation with the glamorous Bruno Magli of Bologna and with Vanes Zaccari’s design
studio. During his long career he has gained a great experience in the shoe technologies for
the shell flattening and the control of lasts and shoe styles.
Thanks to Carmelo Grano’s patient work, carried out with the Torielli shoe engineers, we have this new information technology
method, an invaluable source of information for young modelists.
Up to now, we have been stating that the Cad/Cam programs are tools able to amplify the users’ shoemaking skills. Today, thanks to
the shoe-making engineering rules that have been introduced, Shoemaster Power has probably become the first Expert System for
shoe design, capable of guiding the less experienced designers and allowing the skilled ones to save a lot of time.
By means of a Wizard, Shoemaster Power guides the designer in the shell flattening operation and in the control of important
measures for different shoe and boot lasts as well as different shoe styles.
This version, in fact, presents the following features:
♦ An Auto flattening Wizard, based on three different methods for the shell flattening :
- Model Point (VD) + Heel Height (Grano Method)

- Model Point (VD) + Heel Height + Pivot (Asymmetric Method)
- Free Model Point with reference lines (Free Method)
- Tubular Moccasin Method
♦ A Last and Width Measures Wizard, a useful tool for the control of the lengths and of the girths in different sizes of men’s and
ladies’ lasts.
♦ A Boot Lasts Measures Wizard, the references for the control of boot last, according to the different types of shoes (boots, ankle-
boots, with zip, elasticised, etc.)
♦ A Style Measures Wizard, the measures to check the exactness of men’s and ladies shoes styles such as Oxford, Derby and
moccasin.
Expert systems are a significant innovation in the Information Technology industry field and are currently enjoying a great favour as
they simplify those activities that require highly specialised knowledge. Main applications refer to CRM systems. We believe that
Expert systems can also be a fantastic benefit for our sector, both for engineering and management of shoe production.
DESCRIPTION
This program provider different method to create flattening in an automatic way
Method GRANO: create the flattening based on a database “Opened Back Height”, function of the vamp depth and
Last Heel Height
Method SPRING: create the flattening based on a database “Springing flattening”, function of the vamp depth and
Last Heel Height
Method FREE ASYMMETRIC: create the flattening based on a database “Real Vamp Depth”, function of the vamp
depth and Last Heel Height and Asymmetric centre line, Manual rotation
Method Orthopaedic: create the flattening based on a database “Opened Back Height”, function of the vamp depth
and Last Heel Height
Method MOCASSIN: create the flattening for moccasin

METHOD – Grano
From Tool menu select “Expert System Flattening”, then Method Grano
Decolete Mocassin Oxford Boots

Standard: Create the flattening using the original rule

You are prompt to input the Vamp Depth & Heel Height and the feather table
Distance from Back Heel Height and Centre Line is automatically applied in function of the specified Vamps Depth and Last
Height parameters.
Customized: Create the flattening using your own parameters

You are prompt to input the Vamp Depth & Heel Height
Your own parameters can be set or check using the icon from the toolbar
Clicking on, a file will appear ... You can change the values inside, and then click back on the same icon to save the new
settings
Here to define the flattening thickness for each type of flattening

Decolete
Moccasin
Oxford
Boot
Here values to smooth the heel feather line
Here to adjust the distance from Back heel to toe AND Bottom heel to toe
for Decolete
for Moccasin
for Oxford
for Boot
Here to set your default feather table
Here measure adjustment (set “by” for value and “to” for upper)
Advanced: Create the flattening specifying all parameters manually

Last Height: This will query the Last heel height.
Unfold | Fold: To draw the flattening unfolded or folded.

Pieces: To create inner and outer pieces of the upper and the last bottom patterns ready to send to the Interface program for
cutting.
Book: Pictures of the rule
Info: The see the database available
All these functionalities are available for all types of model

METHOD – Spring
From Tool menu select “Expert System Flattening”, then Method Spring
Last heel height selection


You are prompted to input the Vamp Depth

Reverse: In some case spring is apply in the wrong way, click reverse to correct it
settings
METHOD Free – Asymmetric
From Tool menu select “Expert System Flattening”, then Method Asymmetric
Last heel height selection


You are prompted to rotate manually the flattening
Rotate the flattening until to get the right position,

Then Click to fix the position.

You are prompted to rotate manually the flattening
Your own parameters can be set or check using the icon

from the toolbar
Clicking on, a file will appear ... You can change the values
inside, and then click back on the same icon to save the new
settings
METHOD Orthopaedic
From Tool menu select “Expert System Flattening”, then Method Orthopaedic
Run
Query Pitch
Fold
Pieces
Customize
Info
Run: Create the flattening

You are prompted to input the Vamp Depth & Heel Height
Query Pitch: To know the Heel Height
Fold: To Unfold or Fold the flattening
Pieces: Create Outer, inner and Last bottom pieces
Info: Information about the original parameters and database

Customize: To custom the program for your own use
settings
Here to define the flattening thickness
Here values to smooth the heel feather line
Here to adjust the distance from Back heel to toe AND Bottom heel to toe
Here to set flattening symmetry
Here to define the feather table
Here for measure adjustment (set “by” for value and “to” for upper)
METHOD Moccasin
From Tool menu select “Expert System Flattening”, then Method Moccasin
All step to build a moccasin from a moccasin style

Requirement:
Before to start the Moccasin Wizard ... it is necessary to be sure that the following elements are done.
1/ Inner and outer reference must exist as following

2/ Bottom reference must exist as following

3/ The springing piece must exist
You can load my Demo File, clicking “Test” on the toolbar

Let’s go:
Setup the moccasin
Select the both reference line of the upper as bellow, respect the order selection
Move the inner part

Until to reach this position
Rotate the inner part

Click first the rotation point with the right mouse button, and then rotate until this position
Move the outer part

Until to reach this position
Rotate the inner part

Click first the rotation point with the right mouse button, and then rotate until this
position
Splitting lines
Select in the following order the splitting points
Reverse lines
Make sure that the following lines are going in the right way, if not reverse with this icon
Create inner mocassin line

Select line in the following order, at the specified position
Create outer mocassin line

Select line in the following order, at the specified position
Finish the mocassin

Click to merge the two new lines
LAST MEASURES
From Tool menu select “Expert System Flattening”, then Method Last Measure Wizard
Fr/Uk: Able to get the equivalence between English and French size and reverse
Bottom Fitting: To get the bottom fitting list for a specific size, select Men or Women
Upper Fitting: To get the upper fitting list for a specific size
Book info: Some graphical information about measurement

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Expert Flattening System Manual Page 1 By Torielli

Shoemaster Expert Flattening System

This version, in fact, presents the following features:

- Model Point (VD) + Heel Height (Grano Method)

This program provider different method to create flattening in an automatic way

Method MOCASSIN: create the flattening for moccasin

Decolete Mocassin Oxford Boots

Standard: Create the flattening using the original rule

Customized: Create the flattening using your own parameters

Here to define the flattening thickness for each type of flattening

Here values to smooth the heel feather line

Here to set your default feather table

Advanced: Create the flattening specifying all parameters manually

Last Height: This will query the Last heel height.

Unfold | Fold: To draw the flattening unfolded or folded.

Book: Pictures of the rule

Info: The see the database available

All these functionalities are available for all types of model

Last heel height selection

Standard: Create the flattening using the original rule

Customized: Create the flattening using your own parameters

METHOD Free – Asymmetric

Last heel height selection

Standard: Create the flattening using the original rule

Rotate the flattening until to get the right position,

Customized: Create the flattening using your own parameters

Your own parameters can be set or check using the icon

Run: Create the flattening

Query Pitch: To know the Heel Height

Fold: To Unfold or Fold the flattening

Pieces: Create Outer, inner and Last bottom pieces

Info: Information about the original parameters and database

Customize: To custom the program for your own use

Here to define the flattening thickness

Here values to smooth the heel feather line

Here to set flattening symmetry

Here to define the feather table

All step to build a moccasin from a moccasin style

1/ Inner and outer reference must exist as following

2/ Bottom reference must exist as following

3/ The springing piece must exist

You can load my Demo File, clicking “Test” on the toolbar

Setup the moccasin

Move the inner part

Rotate the inner part

Move the outer part

Rotate the inner part

Create inner mocassin line

Create outer mocassin line

Finish the mocassin

Book info: Some graphical information about measurement

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