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How to remove guitar's neck lacquer?

Use 0000 Steel Wool - Gently - Then you will need to seal the raw wood with TRU-
OIL. Lightly wipe on 3 - 4 coats. Let each coat dry before applying subsequent c
oat. Let dry overnite, then take your 0000 Steel Wool, and " kiss " off any detr
itus that may have occured during your initial rub-in. Go easy. It will be kille
r. TRU-OIL GUNSTOCK FINISH NO WAX !

The main thing w/ Tru-oil is to use Thin coats applied w/ your fingers (every 4
or 5 Hrs.) knock down w/ your 0000 Wool after every 3 coats (let dry for a day).
...after all coats are done to your satisfaction, try to let cure for about a we
ek, and then rub out with a Quality Automotive Cleaner/Polish...ie Meguiars #9 o
r something similar.
_____________

i recently redid my strat neck with two light coats of tru-oil, steel wooled bac
k to the wood so the neck is just sealed, and hand rubbed with clapham's beeswax
to finish. there were no issues and it feels and looks just like the ebm's. per
fect for my taste.
if there was a problem with curing/stickiness then most likely there was some co
ntamination during finishing, probably something in the wood that inhibited the
drying process. in my experience humidity tends to lenghten the drying time but
not longterm as you have described. it is very important to make sure there is n
o residual finish or oils from hands, etc that can interfere and cause a chemica
l reaction with the tru-oil before you spray.
hope this helps.

I love tru-oil. After sanding back with 400 to 600 grit wet'n'dry, apply the tru
-oil (or tung oil) with either steel wool or 800 grit wet'n'dry. This works a mi
x of oil and sawdust into the pores where it acts as a sealer. You can then add
subsequent coats and buff to a nice soft sheen. Works well on necks and bodies f
or a natural soft look.

The difference? I don't really know much about tung oil, but I think tru-oil see
ms to have some of the characteristics of a thin varnish as well. It goes on rea
lly easy. The mahogany guitar in my gallery is done with tru-oil. You can buy a
bottle for about four bucks at Walmart; it's in the hunting department (it was d
esigned for refinishing gun stocks). There are directions on the Birchwood-Casey
website, and a bottle is more than enough for a guitar.
I used multiple coats on the body. Makes the grain pop without looking like a th
ick poly or plastic. I put two coats on the back of the neck - very thin coats -
wipe on and wipe off. No sticky feeling on back of neck; it's almost like it's
unfinished - but it's protected.

For me, it's either MinWax Wipe On polyU or Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil. IMO, the Wi
pe On polyU is a bit faster and more durable.

Today I just finished a maple neck using Stew Mack amber (very yellow) warmed up
with some reranch butterscotch (very orange) and then Minwax wipe-on poly.
Hey, I've done one neck with Tru-Oil, and several with Reranch nitro. I like the
Tru-oil better, even years later.
The packet of tru-oil that i got came with a "Walnut" tint bottle bundled, and I
used this first. I diluted the tint/stain with water, then applied until I got
the color i wanted, then gave it several days of low humidity to dry. Then I the
got to the oil: I gently heated the oil in a plastic bowl that sat in a contain
er of hot (tap) water, double-boiler-style, and then simply applied a thin (warm
) layer with me finger. waited 24 hours, then did another coat. 24 hours, a 3rd
coat. Gave it a bit of a gentle rub with 0000 Grey Pad, and called it a neck. 3
years later, it's still tits!

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