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Gardens
By Tony Avent
Plant Delights Nursery, Inc.
www.plantdelights.com
9241 Sauls Road
Raleigh, NC 27603
919.772.4794
written 7.1.2010
There's something magical about growing palms in your garden that makes otherwise
sane gardeners go through heroic measures to try and keep them alive outside of their
natural range. Perhaps it is the tropical feel that comes with growing palms, despite many
of them originating in temperate climates. That being said, there are a large number of
palms native to the southeastern US that you can add to your garden. Whatever your
reason for planting palms, we hope that this article will help clear up some
misconceptions and incorrect information and help you to be more successful.
There's been plenty written about hardy palms and the perspectives vary based on the
author's location. We became interested in hardy palms back in the mid-1980s after
seeing the wonderful plantings done by the City of Raleigh Parks and Recreation
department. Alan Brunner and Noel Weston, both now retired from the City of Raleigh
Horticultural Staff, were invaluable in sharing both information and plant material. The
City of Raleigh Parks director would later ban the use of more palms in the city parks
because he found them inappropriate, but as we like to say, "Here's your sign."
Thankfully, most of the great palm specimens throughout the Raleigh parks system still
remain. In the ensuing years, local palm experts, Gary Hollar of Gary's Nursery in New
Bern and Jesse Perry from the NC Museum of Natural Science provided valuable
information as well as propagation material for us to get started. Over the years, we have
tried a number of palms, some successful and some not. I'll share some of our
experiences.
First of all, Plant Delights Nursery is in Zone 7b, south of Raleigh, NC. Until 1996, we
lived on the Zone 7b side of the Zone 7a line. Since that time (2010), the line has shifted
south and we now live on the Zone 7b side of the Zone 8a line. In other words, single
digits F were common before 1996, but have only occurred three times since 1996, and
temperatures have not dropped below 6 degrees F from 1996-2010.
It is also important to keep in mind that similar climactic zones are not created equal,
especially when it comes to palms. A Zone 7b in Washington State is not the same as a
Zone 7b in North Carolina. The Washington State Zone 7b never gets much in the way of
summer heat, while the North Carolina Zone 7b gets more than its share. Summer heat
develops sugars in the plants, which translate into better winter hardiness. Palms, such as
Sabal palmetto that originate in warm climates may survive fine in a North Carolina Zone
7b, but have no chance in a West Coast Zone 7b. The converse is true as well since palms
such as Trachycarpus fortunei, which is from a colder region may actually be more
winter hardy in a West Coast, cool-summer climate.
Below, we discuss the palms that we have found to be winter hardy in Zone 7b/8a, plus
some that were touted as winter hardy and proved to be less so. Amazingly many of the
winter hardy palms are monotypic species, meaning that there is only one species in the
genus.
Butia
I have been fascinated by the South American Butia since I first saw one growing at
Raleigh's Pullen Park in the late 1980s. Although only one of the eight Butia species are
considered marginally winter hardy in our Zone 7b garden, the fact that Butia are the
hardiest of the feather palms make them worth the continued effort. There is only one
which seems to grow here, Butia capitata. I've tried both Butia eriospatha (Wooly Jelly
Palm) from southern Brazil and Butia capitata var. odorata (Compact Jelly Palm), also
from southern Brazil, but neither have survived so far. This really makes no sense, since
all of the Butia capitata in the trade seems to be from the warmer populations in northern
Brazil that sees less cold temperatures. I certainly think Butia eriospatha and Butia
capitata var. odorata should be tried more...perhaps with larger size plants. My luck with
regular Butia capitata hasn't exactly been stellar either, since I've killed eight plants over
the years before finally getting one to survive. Like all palms, selecting good winter
hardy stock is important. Butia grow best in full sun, although they seem to tolerate a bit
of light shade.
Butia capitata This has been one of the most frustrating palms for me to grow. While I
was busy killing this over and over, two neighbors who aren't even gardeners have large
specimens in their garden. Not being one to give up, I finally have a couple established.
This South American specimen is the most cold hardy of the "feather leaf" palms.
Established plants usually don't show leaf burn until about 12 degrees F. Below that
temperature, the trunks will need to be protected during extended cold. The trunks
eventually reach 20', with large 5' long drooping blue-grey fronds emerging from atop the
central trunk...truly spectacular where it can be grown. If you can get one large enough to
fruit, the orange-yellow fruit are absolutely delicious to eat fresh. (Hardiness Zone 8-10)
Chamaerops
Chamaerops is a monotypic genus (only one species) from the western Mediterranean
region. It holds the distinction of being the northernmost naturally occurring native palm
species. Chamaerops and Phoenix theophrasti are the only two palm species native to
Europe.
Guihaia
This genus of only two species of small clustering palms, Guihaia argyrata and Guihaia
grossefibrosa has potential for southeastern gardens. I had a species in the ground for
several years, before moving it and subsequently killing the plant. Guihaia are very slow,
but are certainly worthy of more experimentation outdoors.
Jubaea
Jubaea is another monotypic genus of palm, this one is native to a small area of low
forests and adjacent savannahs in central Chile at the base of the Andes. Jubaea is like
most plants from Chile in that it detests hot, humid weather.
Nannorrhops
Nannorrhops is a genus of Middle Eastern natives that is still taxonomically confused.
Some herbarium taxonomists claim Nannorrhops is a monotypic genus by incorrectly
lumping several species into one, and they have yet to be completely resorted. I have seen
references to Nannorrhops ritchieana being monocarpic, but someone must have forgot to
inform the palm.
Rhapidophyllum
Rhapidophyllum is a monotypic genus (only one species) native to the southeastern US
with the center of distribution in the Florida panhandle, southern Georgia, Alabama, and
just into coastal South Carolina. In the wild, needle palm is often found with Sabal minor
growing in moist, acidic, sandy woods, often in standing water or on seasonally flooded
ground. We have found needle palm to grow equally as well in sand or clay soils. Its
winter hardiness lends credence to the thought that it was originally native much further
north, but was pushed southward during a past glaciation.
Sabal
Sabal is a group of 15-16 species of New World palms with seven native to the southern
US including Sabal etonia, Sabal mexicana, Sabal miamiensis, Sabal minor, Sabal minor
var. louisiana, Sabal palmetto, and Sabal x texensis. As a genus, Sabal palms prefer sand
over clay, although they will grow in amended clay soils.
Sabal 'Birmingham'
Sabal 'Birmingham' has been one of the most talked-about hardy palms for years. The
original palm was grown by a Birmingham, Alabama gardener, Miss Alexander, who
brought the palm from California. It survived in her garden for more than 40 years before
being moved to the Birmingham Botanical Gardens in Alabama in 1976. The fronds
appear similar to, but slightly coarser than a Sabal palmetto, and it is much slower
growing than Sabal palmetto . Eventually this palm will get a trunk, but nothing the like
the size of a typical palmetto. The original palm died (after too many re-locations) within
the garden. All plants are seed-grown from the original offspring distributed by
Woodlanders Nursery. There are many debates about what this palm really is. It has been
considered the same as Sabal minor var. louisiana, Sabal palmetto, Sabal minor, Sabal x
texensis 'Brazoria', and in a 1986 Principes article, a hybrid between Sabal mexicana or
Sabal palmetto . More and more, it's looking like Sabal 'Birmingham' may be a trunked
Sabal minor...DNA tests will be necessary to know for sure. Our 13 year old plant is now
9' tall x 9' wide. (Hardiness Zone 7b-10)
Sabal palmetto 'Bald Head Island' (Bald Head Island Palmetto Palm)
The most northern native stand of Sabal palmettos in the country resides on Bald Head
Island, NC. We have found seedlings from these plants to be particularly winter hardy in
our climate, showing no damage since 1999. (Hardiness Zone 7b-10)
This is a most unusual congested leaf form of Sabal palmetto, and reportedly one that has
exceptional winter hardiness. I have yet to try this in the ground in Zone 7b. (Hardiness
Zone 8-10, guessing)
Sabal uresana (Sonoran Palmetto) From up to 4500' elevation in the valleys and foothills
of the Sierra Madre Occidental (states of Sonora and Chihuahua) in Western Mexico
comes this relative of Sabal palmetto that has performed well in East Coast Zone 8
gardens. Sabal uresana is very slow, but eventually (in your grand-kids lifetime) makes a
stunning 30' tall tree with costapalmate silvery-green leaves and a contrasting dark brown
trunk. If you enjoy experimenting, Sabal uresana is a good one to try. (Hardiness Zone 8-
10, guessing)
Serenoa
Serenoa is another monotypic palm genus native to the southeast US, named for Serenoa
Watson, a 19th century curator of the Harvard Herbarium.
Propagation
Palms are typically propagated by seed, although some palms, such as needle palms, can
be propagated by divisions. Divisions are best taken and replanted early in the growing
season. Palm seed typically store very poorly and therefore should be planted as fresh as
possible. Most of the hardy palms have seed that ripen in early winter. Sabal seed turn
black as they ripen, while Rhapidophyllum seed turn brown. We have found that many
palm seed benefit from an overnight soak in water before planting...just don't leave them
soaking any longer. In order to get viable seed, you'll need to know if your palms are
male, female, or both. Most palms are either monecious (one house) or dioecious (two
houses). Monecious palms have both sexes on one plant, while dioecious palms are either
male or female. Monecious palms include Butia, jubaea, Nannorrhops, Sabal, Serenoa,
Trithrinax, and Washingtonia. Dioecious palms include Chamaerops, Guihaia,
Rhapidophyllum (usually), and Trachycarpus (usually). Obviously, the monecious palms
will produce seed on their own, while most of the dioecious species take two opposite
sexes to tango. If producing seed of a dioecious palm is your goal, you will generally
want to plant at least three to play the odds since it's impossible to determine the sex of
young non-flowering plants.
Transplanting Palms
Palms are quite unique in how they respond, or don't respond to transplanting. One of the
most unique palms in this regard is the genus Sabal. As the roots of Sabal palm are
unable to branch. In other words, if a root is cut, it dies completely, making it
unnecessary to dig a large root ball. This why Sabal palms, especially Sabal palmettos are
often seen loaded onto large trucks like telephone poles with virtually no roots. Sabal can
also be planted like telephone poles as long as the foliage is reduced back to the trunk
until they re-establish.
The trick is to transplant Sabal palms when they are older. When transplanting Sabal
palmetto, research has shown that the survival rate of transplanted palms with less than a
10' tall trunk is extremely poor. It was discovered that until a palm reached the 10' trunk
size, the zone of the trunk which regenerates roots is not fully developed and is therefore
incapable of growing new roots. The same is true for other Sabal species...until they
reach a mature size, transplanting success approaches 0%. For this reason, even digging
around a non-mature Sabal palm can spell death, if it doesn't have enough trunk to
regenerate new roots. I am not aware of any research that gives sizes or ages for
successful transplanting of any Sabal other than Sabal palmetto.
Any transplanted palm requires moisture during its reestablishment, and since the roots
are not effective in that regard after having been cut, the palm depends on the moisture in
the trunk to survive. Therefore, if there is no trunk, there is no survivability. If a palm is
large enough to be transplanted, the other two most important factors are soil moisture
and heat. On transplantable sized Sabal, water seems to be the more important factor,
therefore reducing the moisture loss through the leaves is essential. Research has shown
that the foliage must be removed back to the crown for best results.
With many other palm genera, however, the amount of roots remaining when the plant is
dug increases survivability as does the amount of foliage left on the tree at transplanting.
The key is whether the roots branch or die back to the trunk. Unfortunately, we have been
unable to find any comprehensive research on the subject. Obviously, the key is good
planning...plant your palm in the place where you will always want it.
We have compiled this report from both our experiences and those of others around the
country. Our hardiness classifications are probably a bit conservative, but be wary of wild
claims of palm hardiness beyond these zones. Even a Zone 7 palm will survive a winter
in Zone 5 if the temperatures don't drop below Zone 7 temperatures (0 degrees F). When
I hear these outlandish claims, I generally discount them unless the claimant can give me
specific low temperatures that the palms endured.
Keep in mind that while forms of palms are selected for particular traits including winter
hardiness, the plants are seedlings and each is genetically different. These selections have
only an unquantified greater percentage of chances at winter hardiness over one that has
not undergone any winter hardiness selection. This is not a guarantee of winter hardiness.
In palm hardiness, size matters... small palms are simply not as winter hardy as larger
ones. One lesson that we've learned well over the years is that in temperate climates,
palms need to be planted early in the growing season and planted at a large size. If you
are only able to purchase a small size palm (like we sell), grow it as a houseplant until it
reaches a larger size and becomes more winter hardy. While we'll still plant a one gallon
palm of some types, most folks recommend not planting anything smaller than a three
gallon size in a marginal climate.
If you must plant palms smaller than we recommend, be sure to get them in the ground as
early as possible in the growing season. During the winter, much very heavily for the first
few seasons until the plants gain some size, at which time the winter mulching can be
scaled back.
There are a number of techniques used to push palms beyond their normal limits of
hardiness. This includes wrapping the trunks with thick frost cloth, wrapping the trunks
with old-style Christmas lights (the ones that gave off heat) or plumbing heat tap during
the winter months. Another common technique used to prevent winter damage is to tie
the uppermost leaves in a bundle to keep the unfurled spear leaves from getting wet and
cold. It's often not the cold that kills palms, but the combination of wet and cold together.
Other than foliar burn, one of the most common forms of winter damage is spear pull.
This is where the new fronds at the growing tip are killed. This damage may not be
evident until several months afterwords when the new fronds turn brown, then black. A
tug of the unfurled leaves will cause them to separate from the crown. This does not
necessarily mean the plant is lost. It is best to removed damaged spear leaves as soon as
possible to allow air and light into the crown to prevent rot which can kill the plant. Some
folks just make sure that air can get to the crown and that water doesn't stagnate where
the spear was removed, while others drench with a fungicide. If the damage wasn't too
severe, another spear will emerge, usually within 8-12 weeks.
Group 1
Reliably winter hardy in Zone 6a (-10F) once established.
Rhapidophyllum hystrix
Sabal minor 'McCurtain'
Group 2
Reliably winter hardy in Zone 7a (0 degrees F) once established
Sabal etonia
Sabal palmetto 'Bald Head Island'
Sabal palmetto 'Mt. Holly'
Sabal palmetto 'Rock Hill'
Sabal palmetto 'Tifton Hardy'
Sabal sp. Tamaulipas
Trachycarpus fortunei 'Bulgaria'
Trachycarpus fortunei 'Charlotte'
Trachycarpus fortunei 'Greensboro'
Trachycarpus fortunei 'Hayes Stiffie'
Trachycarpus fortunei 'Nanital'
Trachycarpus fortunei 'Norfolk'
Trachycarpus fortunei Taylor Form
Trachycarpus fortunei Tennessee Form
Trachycarpus fortunei 'Wagnerianus'
Trachycarpus nanus
Group 4
Reliably winter hardy in Zone 8a (10 degrees F)
Butia capitata
Chamaerops humilis var. cerifera
Chamaerops humilis
Guihaia argyrata
Jubaea chilensis
Nannorrhops ritchieana
Sabal uresana
References
Broschat, T.K. 1991. Effects of leaf removal on survival of transplanted sabal palms. J.
Arboriculture 17:32-33.
Broschat, T.K. 1998. Root and shoot growth patterns in four palm species and their
relationship to air and soil temperature. HortScience 33:995-998.
Broschat, T.K. and H. Donselman. 1987. Factors affecting palm transplanting success.
Proc. Fla. St. Hort. Soc. 100:396-397.