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Journal of Coastal Research SI 50 731 - 737 ICS2007 (Proceedings) Australia ISSN 0749.

0208

Variability in Sandbank Behaviour at Decadal and Annual Time-Scales and


Implications for Adjacent Beaches

T.J. Dolphin†, C.E. Vincent†, C. Coughlan† and J.M. Rees‡


† School of Environmental Sciences ‡ CEFAS
University of East Anglia, Norwich Lowestoft
NR4 7TJ, UK NR33 OHT, UK
tony.dolphin@uea.ac.uk

ABSTRACT

DOLPHIN, T.J., VINCENT, C.E., COUGHLAN, C. and REES, J.M., 2007. Variability in sandbank behaviour at
decadal and annual time-scales and implications for adjacent beaches. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50
(Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 731 – 737. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208

Sandbanks are an important coastal resource, both in terms of the activities that occur on them (e.g., dredging,
offshore wind farms) as well as the direct and indirect effects they can have on adjacent beaches. Due to the large
temporal and spatial domains that sandbanks occupy, there have been relatively few investigations that examine
bank behaviour and impacts on other sedimentary bodies (beaches and other banks). Navigation charts near
historical ports can yield long datasets for sandbank analysis; however large time intervals and gaps in the data
make it difficult to distinguish trends from cycles and gradual from episodic behaviour.

In this paper we assemble a new 182-year historical dataset that has significant improvements in data density and
temporal coverage (i.e., fewer gaps and smaller time intervals) and permits a more detailed investigation of
patterns in bank behaviour. The sandbank exhibits 70–80 year cyclical behaviour in its movement, volume and
elevation and holds two distinct and associated morphological states (deltaic and elongate). Annual bathymetry
shows gradual bank migration is common to both morphologies but bank reconfiguration (elongate ↔ deltaic)
occurs rapidly (relative to the cycle period), on a bank-wide scale and may be considered to be episodic. The
switch from deltaic to elongate morphology is hypothesised to result from upstream morphology-tide interactions
induced by changes in the shape or position of other banks.

The cyclical nature of bank elevation, extent, proximity to shore and shape has important implications for
adjacent beaches as variation in sandbank characteristics alters the transmission and alongshore distribution of
wave energy (through refraction and dissipation of wave energy by breaking). The latter controls net longshore
sediment transport and therefore erosion/accretion trends. Bank-beach interactions are shown to be complex;
high bank elevations, which can provide the greatest coastal protection by reducing wave energy incident to the
shoreline, are actually associated with the most severe erosion in the historical record. To further elucidate bank–
beach relations, current field and numerical modelling efforts examine the direct (sediment exchange) and
indirect (refraction, dissipation) linkages between bank and beach behaviour.

ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: morphology, refraction, wave energy dissipation, cycles, trends, episodic,
gradual, East Anglia

INTRODUCTION records can span hundreds of years, trends, cycles and the nature
of bank change can be difficult to establish due to large time
Sandbanks are large bedforms (up to 80 km long and tens of intervals between published charts and gaps in the data
metres high) found on tidal continental shelves. Near the coastline, (WHITEHOUSE, 2001; PARK and VINCENT, 2007).
headland-related sandbanks are smaller – just a few kilometres Furthermore, the lack of field datasets that address both the large
long. Sandbanks are an important resource (e.g., for dredging, spatial and temporal aspects of bank behaviour make it difficult to
habitats, siting of offshore wind farms etc.) and are widely validate numerical models and to predict bank behaviour.
considered to play a central role in adjacent beach dynamics This paper is part of a wider study (BLINKS: Beach LINKs to
through modification of the incoming wave field. To date, most Sandbanks) that investigates the behaviour of sandbanks and the
sandbank investigations have been concerned only with genesis links between key bank parameters (e.g., extent, elevation,
and maintenance processes (see DYER and HUNTLEY, 1999). position) and erosion/accretion patterns on adjacent beaches. The
Sandbanks are difficult to study in the field because they occupy project uses new historical data (this paper), new field datasets
large spatial domains and appear to respond to forcing processes (currently being collected) and numerical modelling to investigate
over relatively long time periods. Consequently relatively little is bank behaviour and links to beaches. Here we present the results
known about them. Our understanding of bank behaviour to date of an analysis of sandbank behaviour using 182 years of historical
rests on analyses of historical navigational charts (e.g., survey data (1824–2006). These data differ from previous studies
ROBINSON, 1966). Whilst useful, in that near historical ports as the temporal coverage and data density are significantly

Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 50, 2007


732 Dolphin et al.

Figure 1. Location maps of Britain, the Norfolk Banks (adapted from KENYON et al., 1981) and Newcombe Sands bank.

Figure 2. Newcombe Sands mean and standard deviation maps

improved. In addition to investigating bank behaviour we discuss wide Stanford Channel during spring tides. Flood currents
the consequences of our results for adjacent beaches. progress toward the south. Storm waves can approach from the
north-east – south sector. Although the largest waves are from the
Setting north, some sheltering from northerly waves is provided by Holm
The setting for this study is the East Anglian sandbanks, which Sands.
are found at the landward-most section of the Norfolk Banks METHOD
complex in the English southern North Sea (Figure 1). The focus Bathymetric data of the Newcombe Sands bank are in three
is on the Newcombe Sands bank, which lies just south of forms. (1) Historical survey sheets from 1825–1989 were acquired
Lowestoft, the eastern-most point of England. Newcombe is from the U.K. Hydrographic Office. The survey sheets were
situated between two headlands (locally called nesses); Lowestoft inspected for coverage and registration points for geo-referencing.
Ness in the north and Benacre Ness in the south. This bank was Appropriate sheets were then geo-referenced and digitised. Five to
chosen because of its proximity to shore and comparative ease of eighteen registration points were used and RMS errors ranged
measurement; these factors have bearing on other components of from 2–11 m. To minimise operator error in the 107859 point
the Blinks project which are not discussed in detail here. digitisation, we worked in pairs so each entry was double checked.
Sediments on the bank are medium sands (0.4 mm). Although (2) Recent processed digital bathymetric data (1991–2002) was
the mean spring tidal range (1.9 m) is micro-tidal, the tidal purchased direct from the UK Hydrographic Office. (3) As the
currents are strong, exceeding 1.5 m/s on the flanks of the 1-km- area has not been surveyed since 2002, we conducted our own

Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 50, 2007


Variability in Sandbank Morphology at Decadal and Annual Time-Scales 733

bathymetric surveys in 2005 and 2006 using RTK-GPS+ by ROBINSON (1966) and REEVE, LI, and THURSTON (2001) on
(GPS/GLONASS) single beam sounder and a tilt sensor to remove other Norfolk Banks. The central area between these two regions
records where pitch or roll exceeded +/- 5°. Shore-normal survey is usually occupied by some section of the bank and exhibits less
tracks were spaced at 50 m and soundings recorded every second variability (σ ≈ 0.7–1.7 m).
(post-processed median spacing = 3.1 m). All bathymetric data Large variability in the extent, location and shape of Newcombe
were converted into eastings and northings and elevations were Sands explains the standard deviation patterns and magnitudes.
reduced to the ODN datum where zero metres is approximately Analysis of maps produced from historical surveys reveals that
mean sea level. The resultant dataset consists of ‘decadal’ data Newcombe Sands exists in one of two modes: a ‘deltaic’ form and
(11-year average interval) and ‘annual’ data (two ~17 year periods a simple elongate form (Figure 3). The deltaic form is
of annual–bi-annual surveys; 1962–1979 and 1989–2006). Annual characterised by deep channels (11–14 m) and large terminal and
datasets on sandbanks are rare and allow us to investigate the lateral lobes which can be interconnected. At times there are up to
nature of change in finer detail than previously. three such channels and five to six associated lobes. The lobes are
Sandbank bathymetry was ascertained using original survey similar in appearance to the deposits of an ebb tidal delta –
data rather than the usual practice of digitising contour lines/spot although in this case the lobes are not shaped by tidal currents
heights from navigational charts – the latter can be misleading as from an inlet but by tidal currents (flood) that flow southward
the data are sparse (the survey data are 5–20 times more dense between the shore and sandbanks to the north (Corton and Holm
than chart data), contouring methods/personnel vary with time and Sands). The channel orientations (SSW – SSE) align with the
charts are almost always amalgams of several surveys conducted flooding tidal current.
over many years. In particular, some areas can be misinterpreted When not in the ‘deltaic’ form the bank tends to occur as a
as showing no change – this is due to reuse of old survey data on single body roughly aligned with the shoreline. A shallow channel
new chart productions where there are no new data available. (5–7 m) separates the bank from the shoreline. On occasion the
Detailed discussion on error sources for historical surveys/charts bank shape increases in complexity when it becomes partly
can be found in VAN DER WAL and PYE (2003). dissected by shallow ebb channels (northward flow) in the south.
Bathymetric surfaces were constructed using triangulated The channels are always shallow and never develop lobes, unlike
irregular networks (TINs) and raster maps in ArcGIS. Statistics those in the north.
and statistical maps were also produced using ArcGIS tools. All of Time-series of ‘decadal’ bank statistics (Figure 4) were
the bathymetric maps in this paper are derived from analogue or calculated from the common area of 7.7 km2 (Figure 2). The
digital survey data which is subject to copyright: © Crown figure shows that bank volume is increasing, an observation that
Copyright and/or database rights. Reproduced by permission of was also made by REEVE, LI, and THURSTON (2001) for banks to
the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office and the UK the north. There is also an obvious area-volume-elevation
Hydrographic Office (www.ukho.gov.uk). correlation which highlights a 70–80 year cycle in bank elevation
and morphology. Similar long cycles (~ 100 years) have been
RESULTS identified in decadal data from navigational charts of other banks
Statistical maps (Figure 2) were created over a common in the East Anglian group (REEVE, LI, and THURSTON, 2001),
coverage area of 7.7 km2. The mean map highlights persistent including Scroby Sands (PARK and VINCENT, 2007) where the
features of the bathymetry: deeper seaward flanks and a wide volume cycle lags Newcombe Sands by 25–30 years. Figure 4
shallow bank separated from the shore by a shallow suggests that the reconfiguration of bank morphology, which was
trough/channel. The NNE extension on the bank’s seaward margin also observed elsewhere by ROBINSON (1966) and REEVE, LI, and
is a shallow but intermittent feature (hence the darker colour) THURSTON (2001), is linked to bank volumes and elevations. That
which can connect with the Holm Sands to the north (see Figure is, the deltaic mode shows lower volumes and mean elevations
1). Standard deviation and covariance maps highlight the areas than the elongate mode.
most susceptible to change. The NE flank of the bank exhibits the Annual datasets provide new insight into rates of change on
largest elevation variability (σ > 4 m), which can be explained by sandbanks. Both gradual (slower and continuous migration) and
its exposure to large storm waves (especially when Holm Sands’ episodic (rapid bank reconfiguration) trends are observed – the
elevation is low) and intermittent occupation by the Stanford tidal bank is rarely stationary. For example, during the 1991 – 2002
channel. The same is true of the landward margin of the bank and period the bank migrated shoreward in a gradual and continuous
the channel that separates the bank from the adjacent beaches fashion at x = 24 ± 4.2 m/yr (Figure 5). Between 2002 and 2005,
(σ > 2.5 m). Similar variability in bank margins was also observed the migration rate increased to 70 m/yr, reducing to 38 m/yr in the

Figure 3. Examples of the ‘deltaic’ (left two panels) and elongate (right two panels) sandbank morphologies.

Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 50, 2007


734 Mean elevation (m) Dolphin et al.

-5

-6

-7

-8
Area (m2), Volume (m3)
2.4E+007

6E+006
1.6E+007

4E+006

Y = 33677 * X - 5E+7
8.0E+006

2E+006

r2 = 0.335317

1840 1880 1920 1960 2000

Figure 4. Time-series of the area and volume above the -8 m Figure 5. Time-series of contour lines (1991–2006) on the
contour, the mean elevation in the 7.7 km2 common area and the landward margin of Newcombe Sands. Arrows indicate the
shape (deltaic or elongate ) of the sandbank. shoreward direction of bank migration.

2005 – 2006 period. During this period there were no significant (WHITEHOUSE, 2001). By acquiring and digitising original survey
alterations to the elongate bank shape. datasets we are able to begin to address the questions of cycles,
Likewise, during the 1962 – 1986 period when the bank was in trends and rates of change; the new data have fewer gaps than the
its deltaic form, changes in the shape and location of the bank (i.e., navigation chart series and the two annual datasets collectively
lateral and terminal lobes) were also gradual and, in this case, span 34 years.
related to adjustments in the angle and length of tidal channels. The 70–80 year cycle in mean elevation and volume data
Bank evolution followed a gradual seaward migration during (Figure 4) is also evident in the time-series of bank morphology
which the largest channel, whose seaward lateral lobe is an and location. That is, Newcombe Sands migrates and changes
extension of Holm Sands, deepened and lengthened. shape over a similar cycle. The changes in shape and direction of
In comparison, radical reconfiguration of the bank occurred bank movements are schematised in Figure 6. During the ‘deltaic’
between the 1986 and 1989 surveys (< 3 years). Reconfiguration phases (Figure 6 A and B) the bank shape is dominated by tidal
followed the seaward veer and eventual Stanford Channel channels and adjacent lobes that tend to migrate offshore until the
breakthrough at the terminal and lateral lobes joining Newcombe seaward channel breaks through the terminal lobe, separating the
and Holm Sands. The bank then reverted to its elongate shape and two lateral lobes (Holm and Newcombe Sands; Figure 6 C). The
began migrating shoreward. The recurrent reconfiguration of the separation implies termination or significant reduction in sediment
two morphological states is observed twice in the 1825 – 2006
period. The annual datasets do not include the switch from
elongate to deltaic morphology.

DISCUSSION
Analysis of long- (decadal) and medium-term (annual)
bathymetric surfaces shows that variability in sea floor elevations
over the past 182 years resulted from both the shifting position of
Newcombe Sands as well as its recurrent reconfiguration between
deltaic and elongate modes. Previous research at decadal time A B C
scales (e.g., THURSTON, BIN, and FLEMING 1999) using
navigational charts suggested that the bank was relatively stable.
The new data presented here show that the bank undergoes
significant changes (i.e., movements of up to 1200 m) and is stable
only in the sense that (1) it is constrained between Benacre and
Lowestoft Nesses (which is expected for headland associated
banks; DYER and HUNTLEY, 1999) and (2), in general, it
evolves/migrates slowly.
?
One of the impediments to understanding how coastal and
offshore sandbanks evolve is the long time intervals (and gaps) in F E D
historical bathymetric data. Consequently, it has been difficult to
establish if observed behaviour in bank movements is cyclical or a
trend, and whether changes are episodic (e.g., 100-year storm) or Figure 6. Cycles in sandbank morphology and location. Dark
gradual (loss or accumulation due to tidal processes) arrows indicate direction of movement.

Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 50, 2007


Variability in Sandbank Morphology at Decadal and Annual Time-Scales 735

exchange between the two bodies due to increased water depth


and large channel width (c. 1 km). Once separated, the bank
rapidly returns to its elongate shape (i.e., devoid of central flood-
tidal channels) and begins to gradually migrate shoreward at rates
of 20–70 m/year (Figure 6 D and E).
None of the annual data record the reconfiguration from
elongate to deltaic morphology that presumably occurs as the bank
approaches the shoreline. Based on present bank position (at the
shoreward limit of the historical datasets), bank reconfiguration
could be expected to occur in the coming 10–20 years. However,
if the cycle length is unchanged at least 50 more years of elongate
bank configuration can be expected.
Both gradual and episodic movements in the bank are observed
in the two annual datasets. Gradual movements are those in which
the bank migrates in a set direction at a reasonably constant rate;
for example, the shoreward migration of the elongate bank during
1991–2002 with little change in bank shape ( x = 24 ±4.2 m/year)
and the longitudinal extension of tidal channels on the deltaic bank
(1962–1979). Episodic changes are those in which large-scale Figure 7. Cliff erosion opposite Newcombe Sands in the 1920s
changes occur over comparatively short time scales, such as the (Photographer: the late Ernest Graystone)
breakthrough of Stanford Channel (Figure 6C) and the subsequent
switch from deltaic to elongate morphology (< 3 years; exact time The tendency of the elongate bank morphology to migrate
interval not known). onshore could be the result of aperiodic (wave) or regular (tide)
Measurements at finer time-scales are required to ascertain the processes. As there are no return-flow mechanisms (unlike bars on
causes of both the episodic and gradual changes on the bank and beaches), shoaling and breaking waves are more likely to
indeed to refine what constitutes an episodic or a gradual change contribute to onshore sediment transport (e.g., SNEDDEN et al.,
(e.g., sequences of mild storms vs. tidal action). In order to obtain 1999). Alternatively, the flows that are postulated to maintain
such data we have begun collecting hourly high-resolution banks (e.g., secondary flows, transient eddies and bottom friction;
photographs from which we detect and measure the storm-by- BERTHOT and PATTIARATCHI, (2006) and BASTOS et al., (2004))
storm variability in bank shape and position. may be out of equilibrium with local hydrodynamics, resulting in
In the absence of bathymetric data at frequent time-scales, we lateral migration. To fully understand the processes that lead to
can make some inferences about key processes that dominate the bank migration, detailed spatial measurements under a range of
bank behaviour and perhaps control movement cycles. In deltaic conditions are required.
mode, the form of the bank is clearly controlled by tidal currents. As well as being a significant store of nearshore sediments with
In order for the tidal currents to cut channels through the middle of potential for extraction, sites of wind farms and so on, sandbanks
an originally elongate bank either the bank must move into the are also commonly thought to play an important role in coastal
path of the tidal stream or the angle of the flow must be redirected protection by controlling wave energy incident at the shore
onto the bank. The former requires an offshore transport (WHITEHOUSE, 2001; HAYES and NAIRN, 2004). That is, sandbanks
mechanism, possibly related to changes in ebb currents, although modify the incoming wave field through dissipation (primarily
we have no evidence for this. More likely is an upstream wave breaking), refraction and diffraction. However, there are
morphology-induced adjustment to the tidal stream that diverts very few published studies that attempt to measure and understand
tidal flows across the centre of the bank. As flood-tidal currents beach-bank interactions. This paper is part of a wider study that
can exceed 1.5 m/s, they have the entrainment capacity to mobilise attempts to make significant progress in this area.
sediments and reshape the sandbank into the deltaic features The oscillations in mean bank elevation (-5.2 – -7.7 m range)
observed. Subsequent migration of the channels and lobes could associated with the 70–80 year cycle will influence wave energy
result from further changes in upstream morphology and/or from to the coast. It is expected that transmission (over the bank) of
the exposure of the shallow lobes to wave action. wave energy will fall when the bank is shallower; however, it is
Although sedimentary links between banks have been evident that the corresponding decrease in net wave energy at the
demonstrated previously (STRIDE, 1988; COLLINS et al., 1995), shoreline does not necessarily translate into decreased shoreline
little is known about the indirect interactions between banks. In (beach and cliff) erosion rates. For example, anecdotal evidence in
their analysis of the southern eight East Anglian Banks, REEVE, LI, the form of historical texts, photographs and postcards show that
and THURSTON (2001) show that some banks and channels exhibit the most severe erosion experienced along the coast adjacent to
the same temporal behaviour whilst others are opposite. In Newcombe Sands occurred in the 1920s and early 1930s (e.g.,
particular they note that increased definition in Holm Channel Figure 7). At this time the bank elevation was at its shallowest
corresponds to an eroded Corton Sands bank – reasons for this (Figure 4) and extended across the width of a severely eroding
relationship are not discussed. Our data support the idea that coastal section (beach removal and ~10 m/yr of cliff retreat);
upstream changes in bank morphology (induced by waves or under such conditions wave energy dissipation on the bank is
further upstream interactions) have downstream morphological expected. One possible explanation for the severe erosion during
consequences; we hypothesise that upstream changes in bank the 1920s is that, for shallower banks, optimal ratios of bank
shape and position alter the tidal hydrodynamics that leads to length to distance from shore lead to refraction and strong
downstream morphological change. We are currently exploring alongshore gradients in wave energy; the latter can lead to a
such potential interactions with numerical scenario modelling for a divergence in sediment flux and localised coastal erosion.
range of upstream conditions. In addition to bank location and extent, it is also useful to
consider the role that changes in bank shape could have on wave

Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 50, 2007


736 Dolphin et al.

energy distribution at the shoreline. The complex lobe We would like to acknowledge the monumental digitising effort
morphology that typifies the deltaic mode can be expected to and GIS assistance provided by Mesdemoiselles Angélique Roubi,
produce different patterns in refraction and alongshore wave Estelle Dumont and Karen Thurston. Financial and academic
energy distribution than would be expected for an elongate bank support was provided by Waveney District Council and the Centre
of similar volume, elevation and location. Thus, reconfiguration of for Environment, Fisheries and Aquaculture Science. Members of
the bank is expected to have significant influences on adjacent the public kindly loaned historical books, postcards and
beaches. The knowledge that banks can undergo cyclical photographs at the Lowestoft Fish Fayre. This project is funded by
reconfiguration is of great importance to coastal managers as the Natural Environment Research Council, NE/B503917/1.
planning decisions need to be able to distinguish between trend
and cyclical patterns in terms of the impact they may have at the LITERATURE CITED
shoreline. BASTOS, A. C., PAPHITIS, D., and COLLINS, M. B., 2004. Short-
As there are several potential morphological factors at play term dynamics and maintenance processes of headland-
(elevation, extent, shape) and the time scales of bank change can associated sandbanks: Shambles Bank, English Channel, UK.
be large (years – decades), investigations into bank movements Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 59(1), 33–47.
and subsequent impacts on beaches require medium to long term BERTHOT, A. and PATTIARATCHI, C., 2006. Field measurements of
datasets (e.g., coastal observatories) and numerical modelling the three-dimensional current structure in the vicinity of a
techniques. Historical bank and beach datasets can be used but headland-associated linear sandbank. Continental Shelf
these are difficult to reconcile as they are asynchronous. We are in Research, 26, 295–317.
the process of collecting and analysing synchronous data but the COLLINS, M.B., SHIMELL, S., GAO, S., POWELL, H., HEWITSON, C.,
time-spans are so far very short compared to the time-scales of and TAYLOR, J.A., 1995. Water and sediment movement in the
beach-bank variability. In the meantime our efforts are focussed vicinity of linear sandbanks: the Norfolk Banks, southern
on modelling waves under different tidal conditions (COUGHLAN North Sea. Marine Geology, 123, 125–142.
et al., 2007), morphologies and for changing upstream tide-bank COUGHLAN, C., VINCENT, C.E., DOLPHIN, T.J., and REES, J., 2007.
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sandbank. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of
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digital and single-beam surveys, has permitted detailed analysis of DYER, K.R. and HUNTLEY, D.A., 1999. The origin, classification
sea floor surfaces around the Newcombe Sands bank. These and modelling of sand banks and ridges. Continental Shelf
surfaces reveal that the sandbank undergoes movement, volume, Research, 19, 1285–1330.
elevation cycles as well as morphological reconfiguration over HAYES, M. O. and NAIRN, R. B., 2004. Natural maintenance of
time-scales of 70–80 years (based on a 182 year period). Shorter sand ridges and linear shoals on the U.S. Gulf and Atlantic
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suggestive of changes in the approach angle of the flood tidal analysis of decadal fluctuations in sandbank morphology at
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greatest amount of coastal protection, being associated with SCHWELLER, W.J., 1999. An expanded model for modern shelf
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closer examination, both in the field (which requires longer spatial Shallow Marine Sand Bodies: Sequence Stratigraphic
datasets) and with numerical models (which require detailed field Analysis and Sedimentologic Interpretation. Tulsa, Oklahoma:
data for calibration and validation). We are currently undertaking SEPM (Society for Sedimentary Geologists) Special
both of these aspects by making regular 3D RTK-GPS surveys, Publication No. 64, pp 147–164.
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS assessment of offshore sandbank movements, East Anglia.
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Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 50, 2007

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