Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Winter Events
Christmas markets,
concerts and more
Dick Bruna
Get to know the famous
creator of Miffy
N°01 - €2.50
utrecht.inyourpocket.com
The best places to eat, drink, see, sleep
and experience could be metres away.
Out now.
Contents
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Foreword 4
A few words from the editor
Arriving in Utrecht 5
How to get to your hotel
The Basics 6
Getting to grips with Utrecht
History 10
The city’s past on two pages Unlike Rembrandt or Van Gogh, one of the Netherlands’
biggest artists is still very much alive. Dick Bruna is the
Culture & Events 12 creator of Miffy (in Dutch: Nijntje), known from Tokyo to
Buenos Aires, from New York to Sydney. Discover his
Concerts, galleries and events incredible world on p.51. Photo of Dick Bruna by Ferry Andre
de la Porte
Where to stay 20
Beds for backpackers and business executives High times in Holland 42
How to smoke legally and responsibly
Dining & Nightlife 24
The Dutch have much more to offer than cheese Sightseeing 44
Museums, churches and other sights
Cafés 34
Classic cafés and high tea Getting around 52
Planes, trains and automobiles (bikes, too!)
Nightlife 36
Bars, pubs, clubs and cafés List of small features
Useful phrases 8
The weed pass 39
Street talk 53
Stitch ‘n’ Bitch 57
Football: FC Utrecht 58
Space oddity 61
Directory
Shopping 54
Sports & Leisure 58
Health & Wellness 60
Lifestyle directory 61
Useful phrases
Useful phrases
How are you? Hoe gaat het met je?
Pleased to meet you Leuk kennis met je te maken.
Do you speak English? Spreek je Engels?
Where is the nearest shop, hotel, restaurant, café, bar
or toilet?
Waar is de dichtstbijzijnde winkel, hotel, restaurant,
café, bar of toilet?
What’s your name? Hoe heet je?
My name is … Ik heet ...
What time is it? Hoe laat is het?
How much? Hoe veel kost dit? Utrecht is dripping with culture and history Ilse Ouwens
This costs too much! Dit is veel te duur!
Hello Hallo
Hi Hoi National holidays
Good morning Goedemorgen There are a number of public holidays in the Netherlands.
Good evening Goedenavond On these days shops, museums and attractions often
Goodnight (greeting) Goedenacht close earlier and some stay closed the whole day. Schools,
Goodnight (sleeping) Welterusten city councils, post offices and banks are closed and some
Goodbye (Dutch) Tot ziens shops and restaurants may also close. Those still open
Bye (Dutch) Dag will have abbreviated opening hours. It’s also worth say-
Bye (in Den Bosch) Houdoe! ing that the Easter holidays and subsequent Pentecostal
Yes Ja holidays are popular times for Dutch families (and those
No Nee from many other European countries) to travel, so if you’re
Maybe Misschien plans include a road trip to several destinations, be prepared
Cheers! (as a toast) Proost! for plenty of fellow drivers and book your accommodation
All the best! Het beste! in advance. Queen’s Day on 30 April is a big celebration
Thank you Dank je wel in all of the Netherlands. Sinterklaas on 5 December
is also a typical feast day when everyone celebrates at
Days of the week home. There are a few regional variations with carnaval-
Monday Maandag len (carnival) celebrated in February and March in Catholic
Tuesday Dinsdag areas. Of course, Budget Day also has its charms! The
Wednesday Woensdag date is followed by the name of the holiday in English and
Thursday Donderdag the Dutch name appears in parentheses just after that.
Friday Vrijdag
Saturday Zaterdag January 1 New Year’s Day (Nieuwjaarsdag)
Sunday Zondag April 22, 2011 Good Friday (Goede Vrijdag)
April 24-25, 2011 Easter (Pasen)
Numbers April 30 Queen’s Day (Koninginnedag)
1 een 2 twee May 1 Labour Day (Dag van de Arbeid)
3 drie 4 vier May 4 Remembrance of the Dead (Nationale
5 vijf 6 zes Herdenking)
7 zeven 8 acht May 5 Liberation Day (Dag van de Vrijheid)
9 negen 10 tien May 9 Mother’s Day (Moederdag)
11 elf May 13 Ascension Day (Hemelvaartsdag)
20 twintig May 23-24 Whitsun (Pinksteren)
21 eenentwintig June 20 Father’s Day (Vaderdag)
50 vijftig June 26 Veterans’ Day (Veteranendag)
100 honderd September 21 Budget Day (Prinsjesdag)
1000 duizend December 5 St. Nicolas (Sinterklaas)
December 25-26 Christmas (Kerstmis)
Street smarts December 31 New Year’s Eve (Oudejaarsdag)
Street straat
Road weg
Lane laan Religion
Highway snelweg According to a recent survey, fewer than 20% of Dutch people
Boulevard boulevard attend church regularly. But historically the Netherlands is
Square plein characterized by a multitude of religions. Since the middle
Market markt ages, and until the late 20th century, the Netherlands was
Airport vliegveld a predominantly Christian country. Although religious diver-
Bus station busstation sity remains to the present day, there is a major decline in
Train station treinstation religious adherence. Almost half of the Dutch population are
Taxi taxi Hang out with Greek not members of any religious community. The other 55% are
goddesses in Utrecht distributed over a number of religions, from which almost
Lya Cattel half are affiliated with a Christian church. The largest group
(26.6%) is Roman Catholic. The number of Catholics is not
Visas
Whether a prospective visitor requires a visa depends on
his nationality and how long he intends to stay in the Neth-
erlands. Nationals of many countries require a visa for an
uninterrupted stay of up to three months. Countries whose
nationals do not require a visa for a stay of three months
or less include: Andorra, Argentina, Australia, Brazil, Brunei,
Canada, Chile, Costa Rica, Croatia, Cyprus, El Salvador, EU
countries, Guatemala, Honduras, Iceland, Israel, Japan,
Liechtenstein, Malaysia, Malta, Mexico, Monaco, New Zea-
land, Nicaragua, Norway, Panama, Paraguay, San Marino,
Singapore, South Korea, Switzerland, USA, Uruguay, Vatican
It’s warmer inside! Lya Cattel City and Venezuela.
47 AD - Castellum Traiectum
Around the start of the Common Era, the Romans expand
their empire to the Rhine delta and the areas along the
Elbe. In the year 47 AD, Roman emperor Claudius decides
that the River Rhine is to become the northern border of
the empire. The border, also called Limes, is protected
with fortresses. At a fordable place along the Rhine they
build the Castellum Traiectum, which will later become
Utrecht. Utrecht canal in winter Ilse Ouwens
Rock, pop, jazz & More Rock, pop, jazz & More
6 12:30 Lunchconcert. Dennis Kolen. SU 16 20:15 Rock. Isobel Campbell and Mark TOG
Dutch singer-songwriter. Tickets Lanegan. Tickets €17
€27.50 (including lunch, no 19 21:00 Trance. Energy. International JU
drinks) - artists from 9 countries; the first
6 14:00 Orchestral art music. Complex RS 07:00 edition of Energy is complete.
tone clusters and rich overtones The three rooms ‘Connect’,
characterise the Korean ‘Execute’ and ‘Play’, host popular
orchestral art music which DJ legends and rising talents.
accompanies colourful court Tickets €49.50
dances. Tickets €12 - 20 20 16:30 Metal. Bonecrusher Fest 2011 TOG
9 20:30 Rock/Folk. Richard Thompson TOG (Dying Fetus, Keep of Kalessin,
Band. How can you describe Carnifex, Annotations of An
the career of a man who has Autopsy, Fleshgod Apocalypse).
made more than 40 albums and Tickets €20
was named one of the Top 20 24 20:45 Indierock. Oh No Oh My. EK
Guitarists of all-time by Rolling American band praised for their
Stone Magazine? Tickets €25 upbeat sound and versatile
10 20:15 Worldmusic. Live from Buena VLR instrumentation. Tickets €9
Vista: The Havana Lounge is 24 20:15 Britrock. Kensington. Borders is TDH
a music and dance spectacle. the name of the first album of his
Tickets €35 Utrecht based band. Tickets €9
11 20:45 Rock. Krach. Young promising EK 25 20:15 Rock. The Black Angels. Four TDH
Dutch band. A must for guitar guys from Austin, Texas.
lovers! Tickets €8 Psychodelic 1960s rock. Tickets
11 21:00 Chaabi music. The famous RS €13
ensemble Ouled El Bouazzaoui 25 21:00 Jazz. Together with French jazz RS
specialises in the marsaoui, an giant Louis Sclavis, Ivorian
older, more original form of the balafon master Aly Keita and
widely popular Moroccan chaabi Argentinian percussionist Minino
party music. Tickets €10 - 17 Garay, Moroccan guitarist, ud
12 20:30 Indierock. Dolorean + Ben EK player and guembri player Majid
Weaver. Tickets €10 Bekkas searches for the West-
12 20:00 World music. Gaby Moreno. Latin, VL African roots of gnawa and jazz in
blues, soul and a melancholy this excellent crossover project.
voice characterises this Tickets €12 - 20
American singer/songwriter with 26 21:00 Pop. Alessandra Leão is RS
Guatemalan roots. Tickets €23 considered one of the great
12 20:15 Folk/Rock. Laura Veirs and the TDH new talents in the music scene
Hall of Flames. Even pregnancy of Pernambuco, Brazil. Tickets
couldn’t keep her away from the €8.50 - 14
stage. Tickets €12.50 26 21:00 New Wave. Clan of Xymox. Dutch TDH
13 15:00 Folk/Jazz. With his new RS darkwave music. Tickets €15
trio, Turkish/Armenian 27 15:00 Worldmusic. The blind singer and RS
singer/percussionist Arto lute player Farhôd Qôri Halimov
Tunçboyaciyan, leader of the from Uzbekistan is a master of
famous (and often hilarious) the classical shashmaqam as
Armenian Navy Band, explores it was played at the medieval
the common ground between courts of the Emirs in Central
jazz and Armenian and Anatolian Asia. The Mavrigi Bukhara
folk songs. Tickets €10 - 17 Ensemble performs old Uzbek
folk songs from Merv. Tickets
€10 - 17
27 12:30 Lunchconcert. Robin Block. This SU
Amsterdam-based singer/
songwriter sings intimate and
intense songs. Tickets €27.50
(including lunch, no drinks)
Mar
5 21:00 Funk. Interactivo is one of RS
the hottest new bands in the
panorama of contemporary
Cuban music, consisting of some
of the best musicians of Cuba’s
younger generation. The group
has patented the ‘funk timba’, a
new style with influences from
rock, hip-hop, reggae, jazz and
American indie rockers Oh No Oh My will perform on soul. Tickets €10 - 17
February 24 at Ekko
B&B Vechtoever B-3, Vechtoever 33 (Utrecht-Area), De Dromerij A-4, Lessinglaan 2 (Utrecht-City), tel.
tel. (+31) 628 44 52 01, www.bnb-vechtoever.nl. B&B (+31) 624 70 62 16, slaap@dedromerij.nl, w w w.
Vechtoever is located by the River Vecht on the edge of the dedromerij.nl. Only one room is available in De Dromerij, a
city and it offers splendid views of the Dutch countryside from small bed and breakfast in the quiet Oog in Al neighborhood,
its rooms and rooftop terrace. Housed in a modern private not far from the lively Lombok Quarter. The room has a king
building near the Vechtse Park, its upper floor guest room is size double bed, a TV and a balcony as well as a private
sparsely decorated and has twin beds. Q1 room (1 double bathroom with double shower and toilet. Q1 room (1 single
€70 - 80). T6LGX €85). Breakfast: €7.50. XW
Toque Toque A-2, Oudegracht 138, tel. (+31) 302 32 Bresson B-3, Oudegracht 214, tel. (+31) 302 32 26
25 55, reservering@toque.nl, www.toque.nl. Where 23, info@brasseriebresson.nl, www.brasseriebresson.
Dutch people may have an inclination to get depressed with nl. This stylish place has a French-chic theme and a a black
the changing of seasons (especially in autumn and winter), and white colour scheme that is present in everything from
the chef of restaurant Toque Toque simply loves it. Every the spotless wait staff and the photos on the wall to the
four months he surprises his patrons with a new Dutch furniture and pretty much everything else in the restaurant.
menu with Mediterranean influences. It’s a true pleasure to It’s a pleasant break from the usual casualness and fusion of
watch this enthusiastic cook at work in the open kitchen of styles so typical of Dutch establishments and, more impor-
this monumental building. The interior of the restaurant is a tantly, the chicness isn’t reflected in its prices. For as little
combination of old and new styles, which seem to have been as €11 you and a friend can get quite an elaborate spread for
brought together at random, yet somehow complement each lunch. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 10:00 - 24:00.
other. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (€15 - 20). (€16 - 23). JAGK
JAGBKXW
C’est Ca D-3, Bollenhofsestraat 142 (Utrecht-City),
tel. (+31) 302 71 01 05, www.restaurant-cestca.nl.
Ethiopian This restaurant is situated in the yuppie neighbourhood of
Sunshine C-3, Pauwstraat 11, tel. (+31) 302 23 25 Wittevrouwen and it maintains a ‘one size fits all’ principle:
25, sunshine@ethiorest.nl, www.ethiorest.nl. Up for everyone pays the same price for the same five-course meal,
something different? Enjoy eating with your hands? Especially which has been thought up by the chef earlier in the day based
off someone else’s plate? Then try Sunshine, because this on available fresh produce. Guests can tell their server in
Ethiopian restaurant makes very few concessions to Dutch advance what they wouldn’t like to see on the menu - meat,
cuisine. Whatever you order from the menu will end up in small fish, shellfish, and so on - but other than that the menu will
heaps on a large enjera (sourdough pancake), which you eat remain a surprise until the dishes are brought to your table.
off of together with your friends in a brotherly manner until the You can count on one of the courses to be a cheese platter,
restaurant staff drags you away from the table for an African however, as you are in a French restaurant after all. The dishes
dance. The vegetables, lamb and lentil puree are well-spiced, aren’t too complicated, but are skilfully prepared classics of
but given its price the enjera could use some more toppings. French and sometimes even Italian cuisine. QOpen 18:00
Unfortunately, the toilets are dirty and the plastic table cloths - 21:30. (€32). PAGK
are sticky, but the heart-warming enthusiasm of the people
who run the place makes up for it. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00, Fri, Chez Willy B-3, Oude Gracht aan de Werf 73, tel. (+31)
Sat 16:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (€12 - 15). JAGKS 302 36 46 18, fax (+31) 302 36 46 15, info@chezwilly.
nl, www.chezwilly.nl. Despite the fact that the interior
Fast food & Delivery seems somewhat dated with its brown tiled floor, its coloured
furniture and the bars in front of the windows, few places in
Kentucky Fried Chicken A-1, Vredenburg 13, tel. the inner city will serve food for less money than Chez Willy.
(+31) 302 31 42 84, www.kfc.nl. If 8 million people The service is great in this historical wharf cellar and host
throughout the world eat a Colonel’s fillet-burger or Mexican and chef Ercan is well-known for his marinated spareribs and
twister every day there must be a good reason. Let’s face it. meat skewers. Old murals, candlelight and the ever-friendly
KFC isn’t healthy, but it’s delicious so put your contempt for staff provide a pleasant and informal dining atmosphere.
American fast food chains aside and order some deep-fried You can even reserve ‘your’ spot on the terrace by the water
chicken, because it really is finger lickin’ good. QOpen 10:00 online. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (€15 - 20).
- 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. PTJGK TJA6GBKX
Fusion
Lisboa A-2, Zakkendragerssteeg 25, tel. (+31) 302 30
22 25. This trendy little place is located in what could be the
narrowest alley in the city, but it’s worth the extra effort to find
it. The staff is friendly and the €5 mini-dishes, consisting of,
among other things, sashimi on skewers and smoked bass
in orange sauce, are delicious and original. Moreover, for that
price you can try a few so you don’t have to feel like you’re
missing out on something. But don’t come here expecting
Portuguese cuisine as the name Lisboa is deceiving and
certainly doesn’t reflect the fusion food it serves. QOpen
17:00 - 24:00. (€5 - 15). TJAGBK
De Pastabar B-2, Schoutenstraat 15, tel. (+31) 302 Kyushu B-1, Voorstraat 66, tel. (+31) 302 34 36 30,
31 36 67, info@depastabar.nl, www.depastabar.nl. www.kyushu.nl. The food, service and atmosphere were
The name of the Pastabar, one of the suspiciously numer- all fine in this Japanese restaurant, but we weren’t exactly
ous Italian places on the short Schoutenstraat, suggests impressed either. The sushi is prepared on the spot and
a snack bar serving pasta. It is, however, much more than rather delicious, but the seaweed is bit chewy. The waiters are
that even though the restaurant does keep the choices to very friendly, but not always alert and the minimalist interior
a bare minimum. Choose a pasta base (tagliatelle, penne or of unvarnished wood gives Kyushu an average atmosphere.
spaghetti) and a type of sauce. Some of these are rather Prices range from €3.50 for a vegetarian maki roll to €18 for
basic, such as ‘basil and garlic’ and nothing else, but you’re a luxurious roll with salmon caviar. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
invited to sprinkle as many pine nuts and parmesan cheese PTJGKS
on your food as you like. The food is relatively expensive, but
is compensated by its quality and freshness. The house wines
are also well worth a try. QOpen 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Mediterranean
(€13 - 18). JABK Delphi’s B-2, Neude 29, tel. (+31) 302 31 71 47, fax
(+31) 302 32 27 90, www.restaurantdelphis.nl. In
Mr. Jacks B-1, Voorstraat 61, tel. (+31) 302 32 85 33, 1981, the owner of this building opened the very first Greek
www.mrjacks.nl. The place to go for people travelling on a restaurant in the Netherlands. Since then the concept of quick
shoe-string budget, this Italian restaurant traditionally caters service and reasonable prices has been copied innumerable
to financially challenged students. Greek grill specialties start times, which is, perhaps, the reason that Delphi’s now also
from €10, pizzas from €5 and pastas from €7.50 and the serves international dishes. Thankfully there are still authen-
serving sizes are surprisingly big. However, the dishes are tic Greek wines on the menu and bottles of olive oil on each
average at best, so don’t expect any culinary wonders here. table. If you have a meal here in the evening you’ll experience
QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. (€5 - 15). JVKS some traditional Greek atmosphere, but during the day it’s
more of a café. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (€16 - 21). JK
Pronto Pronto B-2, Schoutenstraat 19, tel. (+31) 302
14 55 52, fax (+31) 302 14 57 72, info@prontopronto. Het Zuiden A-2, Mariastraat 4, tel. (+31) 302 32 58 48,
nl, www.prontopronto.nl. Although many large cities have www.restaurant-hetzuiden.nl. This pleasant little restau-
a Chinatown, Utrecht has a genuine Little Italy, which revolves rant serves mainly Mediterranean dishes, but not of a stan-
around the Schoutenstraat. Many shops, restaurants and dard variety. Order swordfish with nut salad, marinated tuna
domestic caterers breathe a Southern European atmosphere stuffed with crayfish and orange couscous or a guinea fowl
into this area and Pronto Pronto, with its open kitchen, is a fillet with figs, pistachio nuts and saffron rice. The wait staff
great place to go if you enjoy truly fresh ingredients and typi- is friendly and prices are about average for Utrecht. QOpen
cal Italian dishes. You won’t find a standard pizza or pasta, 11:30 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (€18 - 26). JBK
however, but there is a range of small, original dishes. Save
some space for the homemade apple pie with a dash of Winkel van Sinkel A-2, Oudegracht 158, tel. (+31)
rosemary. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. JK 302 30 30 30. First opened as a department store in the
early 19th century, this is probably one of the most famous
Japanese establishments in Utrecht and it caters to all tastes. On the
ground floor you’ll find a bar/restaurant, while an evening
Hasekura B-5, Veilinghavekade 115 - 127 (Utrecht- restaurant and nightclub are available in Winkel’s wharf cellars.
City), tel. (+31) 306 77 78 38, www.hasekura.nl. This is The restaurant has an Arabic feel and serves Mediterranean
the only place in Utrecht that offers all you-can-eat Japanese tapas until late. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
cuisine. Located outside the city centre next to a recently (€10 - 17). JK
developed marina, Hasekura offers an incredible feast for only
€24.95. In a period of 2.5 hours you can tick all the dishes
you’d like to eat on an order form. If you’re up for another
Outside seating B
round of sushi or teppan yaki, you just ask for another form.
The advantage of this measured method is that there’s less
Although it’s winter, many Dutch cafés and restau-
risk of you ordering more than you can possibly eat. However rants still offer heated seating outside, even if
there is a downside: the wait staff will know just how much of there’s snow on the ground. That said, we apo-
glutton you really are! You can also ask for its à la carte menu logise in advance if the restaurateurs suddenly
if you’re not in the mood to eat like Homer Simpson. QOpen decide that it’s too cold to serve you outside.
15:00 - 22:30. (€15 - 20). K
Tapas Thai
Ele B-3, Oudegracht aan de Werf 211, tel. (+31) 302 31 Little Siam A-5, Balijelaan 17, tel. (+31) 302 97 01 05.
21 65, www.eletapas.nl. Ele is a Spanish tapas restaurant The Buddhas and the lucky cat are somewhat kitsch, but the
located in one of the many wharf cellars on the Oudegracht. food is good all the same. You can expect plenty of choice
The dishes are reasonably priced and tasty, especially for gar- (also for vegetarians), portions that will keep you fed for days
lic lovers, and if you’re lucky you might even catch a guitarist and fresh Thai vegetables. The food has been adjusted for
playing classic Spanish music. Although miscommunications Western taste buds and is therefore rather mild, but it can
can occur with the Spanish speaking staff from time to time, be properly spiced up upon request. QOpen 17:00 - 05:00,
they’re an extremely friendly bunch. QOpen 17:00 - 22:00. Mon 17:00 - 22:00. (€10 - 20). PT6GKS
Closed Mon. (€5 - 8). JEB
High Tea
Broers stadscafe-restaurant B-2, Janskerkhof 9, tel.
(+31) 302 34 34 06, www.stadscafe-broers.nl. Every af-
ternoon from 13:30 - 16:30 this multifunctional pub is mobbed
by men and women with a sweet tooth eager to sample
Broers’ high tea menu. We’re not going to lie. It’s a bit more
expensive than at other cafés, but the quality is worth the
extra cash. The fun begins with a large pot of tea, after which
come scones, clotted cream, cranberry jam, quiche and mini-
sandwiches. Real gluttons can extend this menu with lemon
ice-cream, bonbons, Grandmother’s cake and champagne.
QOpen 13:30 - 16:30. (€14.90). TJAG
Puur Eten & Drinken B-2, Lange Janstraat 28, tel.
(+31) 302 38 24 54, info@eetcafepuur.nl, www.eet- Out of town
cafepuur.nl. At Puur the high tea isn’t too expensive and Garden café Botanica B-4, Budapestlaan 17 (Utrecht-
you’ll definitely fill your belly. This small jewel is also only a Area), tel. (+31) 302 53 19 05, fax (+31) 302 53 51
five-minute walk from the central station. The interior consists 77, botanicacatering@hotmail.com, www.uu.nl/NL/
of peaceful brown and white hues and two long, comfortable BotanischeTuinen. Apart from a garden shop, the visitor’s
sofas. Thanks to the large window, you also have a great centre of Fort Hoofddijk also contains a good café. At perhaps
view of the busy street outside. For €10 two people can get the most peaceful and beautiful location in the city, manager
a mix of cupcakes, chocolate cake, cream puffs, scones and Barry sells homemade soups like the delicious pumpkin soup,
cheesecake, not to mention a large pot of fresh mint tea. abundantly filled sandwiches and fresh coffee every day. Be-
Delicious! QOpen 11:30 - 16:00. (€10). TJ6G tween courses you can find inspiration for the landscaping of
your garden or balcony in the surrounding greenery. QOpen
10:00 - 16:30. (€3 - 6). TUGK
The price of complaining
The Dutch love to complain,
especially about money and
the weather. Despite the fact
that many daily products like
bread, milk, cheese, eggs and
beer are 10% cheaper than
in neighbouring countries,
they love to gripe about the
cost of a trip to the super-
market. Meat and cigarettes,
however, are much more expensive in Holland.
The cheapest countries in Europe are Bulgaria,
Romania and Poland, where most shop prices
are 40% below the Dutch level. Denmark, on the
other hand, is the most expensive EU country.
Daily shopping costs are nearly 40% higher than
those in the Netherlands.
Utrecht café culture Ilse Ouwens
De Vingerhoed B-3, Donkere Gaard 11, tel. (+31) Springhaver B-3, Springweg 50, tel. (+31) 302 31 37
302 31 96 59, www.eetcafedevingerhoed.nl. Right in 89, www.springhaver.nl. Of all of Springhaver’s functions
the middle of the historic city centre lies De Vingerhoed. It’s - it also houses an art house cinema and a restaurant - the
always been there and it probably always will, but that doesn’t pub is probably its best asset. Its meals are big, reason-
mean that it’s boring. Not at all: it’s a pleasant eetcafé with ably priced and cooked with organic ingredients. The place
food which is nothing fancy, but definitely reasonable and the also has a cosy atmosphere and a large quantity of reading
staff is always friendly. If you’re lucky enough to get a spot material if you don’t feel too sociable. Orders are taken at
on the terrace you can stay put all day watching hundreds of the bar and if you hang around long enough you might be
passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:30. paid a visit by the owner’s cat! QOpen 11:00 - 21:30. (€12
Closed Sun. (€12.50 - 18.50). TJ6GK - 16). J6K
Coffeeshops
Andersom B-2, Vismarkt 23. Upon visiting this coffeeshop,
we were told that we could only enter after buying a cannabis
product at the entrance. Not only is this a great turn-off for
people looking for somewhere relaxed and chilled to go
smoke, or even to have a soft drink, it’s also not permitted
under Dutch law. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00
- 00:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. A potent cannabis plant can be very tempting
Black and White B-2, Vismarkt 14. Very close to the De Wietstok B-1, Wittevrouwenstraat 21. The only ap-
town centre, this coffeeshop is only a counter with no seat- pealing feature of this dark room seems to be the stable-door
ing. Many pleasant sit-down coffeeshop alternatives can be that enables you to quickly decide that this might not be the
found nearby so don’t waste your time here unless you want place to spend an hour or two. It’s more of a drop in and buy
something for home. QOpen 11:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 place and an expensive one at that. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
- 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun. Mon, Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Tue, Wed 10:00 - 23:00.
Bordeaux Rood B-1, Voorstraat 81. Dark, with chunky Freak Shop B-1, Breedstraat 55. If you’re looking for a
furniture and a somewhat cosy feel, this coffeeshop doesn’t dark, cosy, somewhat romantic spot, then the Freak Shop
look like much from the outside. The name would make one is the place to go. Despite the fact that the smoking room
think that it’s a wine-shop, but don’t be fooled. This is a is separated from the bar, we like it’s stylish interior. Trippy
coffeeshop, which appears to cater mainly to tourists. Unfor- murals, colours, chandeliers and candles as well as good
tunately, nothing exceptional here. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, music all contribute to the complete smoking experience. For
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. J those looking to spend some time here, it also offers board
games, a TV and free papers on the tables. QOpen 10:00
Coffeeshop 208 B-3, Oudegracht 208. This coffeeshop - 22:00. Closed Sun.
is in fact just a counter and closes early at 18:30. In other
words, it’s of little use to travellers looking for a place to Koffiedik B-1, Breedstraat 2. This coffeeshop is more of
smoke. QOpen 13:00 - 18:30, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. J a drop-in smoke bar. The staff is friendly and efficient and you
can stay and smoke what you buy in one of the two smok-
Culture Boat C-1, Wittevrouwensingel 206. As the ing rooms, but you have to help yourself to drinks from the
name suggests this coffeeshop is actually a boat - and quite automatic vending machines. The positive side to this is the
a large boat at that. It’s light in colour, has wooden tables fact that there doesn’t seem to be obligatory consumption
and chairs, Moroccan lamps on its walls and many plants from the bar to chill here, but it does have a one hour time
around the windows. In short, it’s a perfect environment for limit. The seating/smoking area is setup with stylish wooden
smoking and reading an In Your Pocket guide although other stools at high tables surrounded by plants and an old style
literature is also permitted. With its friendly staff and pleasant British phone box. The high traffic at this establishment
surroundings on the canal, Culture Boat is one of the best indicates that it’s a local favourite. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00,
in Utrecht, despite being on the outskirts of the city centre. Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. J
Shabab A-4, Vleutenseweg 92 (Utrecht-City). Located
De Vipshop B-3, Daalsedijk 294. The best thing about outside the city centre, but still within walking distance of the
this coffeeshop, which is very small and caters mainly to locals, station, this coffeeshop caters mostly to the immigrant work-
is its cosy atmosphere. De Vipshop has a slightly Hawaiian or ers and their descendants living in the area. This results in a
maybe Caribbean décor, as the counter is located beneath a cosmopolitan, but less Dutch feel. Shabab offers a complete
kind of straw mini-roof, which might be the kind of thing you’re Moroccan interior from the tiles in the toilet to the bars sepa-
looking for if you like to rub elbows with others and hopefully rating the staff from the patrons. From the outside you might
spark up an interesting conversation - as well as your joint. even think it’s a kebab shop, as the white frosty windows hide
The selection of weed and hash is reasonable, but nothing the attractive décor inside. QOpen 11:00 - 00:30.
special. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
‘t Grasje C-1, Obrechtstraat 1. A large selection of hash
and weed, all presented under a glass counter so you can
What’s THC? see exactly what you get, is administered by a friendly blond
dread-locked (sha)man. A sunny window full of green plants
Tetrahydrocannabinol or and walls completely decorated with trippy painted imagery
THC is the psychoactive will ensure that your time in this establishment will certainly be
substance in cannabis that well spent. It’s more of a quiet coffeeshop where the Utrecht
local might stop by for a cheeky joint (or a vaporizer toke - it
gets you high. It’s also known has a very good one) with his or her morning coffee. Not on a
to increase appetite and main street or close to the station, it may be a small trek to
relieve nausea. reach this establishment, but it’s definitely worth it. QOpen
13:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Churches
Buurkerk B-2, Buurkerkhof 10. The Buurkerk was the
oldest of the town’s four medieval parish churches and was
dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The hermit Sister Bertken even
requested to be walled up in a small cell inside the church in
1457 until her death. Unfortunately for her, death didn’t come
quickly. She lived for another 57 years and only met her maker
at the age of 87. There’s a memorial stone in the Choorstraat,
which is where her cell was supposedly located.
The Buurkerk most likely originated in the tenth century in
the Stathe trade quarter, but the church was burned to the
ground no less than four times in subsequent city fires. After
the last fire, a new church arose: an early Gothic basilica,
of which the characteristic 56m-high tower still exists. The
church was used for storing oats during the French occupation
of 1672, and it served as a hay storehouse, a field bakery
and a cowshed during the later French occupation in 1695.
As the number of churchgoers shrunk in Utrecht, the Buurkerk
finally stopped holding services in 1975. After a thorough
renovation it became the National Museum Speelklok (from
Musical Clock to Street Organ). Because the church has
been divided up into museum halls, its original shape has
largely been lost.
Musical Clock Museum B-2, Steenweg 6, tel. (+31) Rietveld Schröderhuis A-4, Prins Hendriklaan 50
302 31 27 89, post@museumspeelklok.nl, www.muse- (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 36 23 10, rhreserverin-
umspeelklok.nl. This could be the most cheerful museum gen@centraalmuseum.nl, www.rietveldschroderhuis.
in the Netherlands! Enjoy a stroll past carillon clocks, music nl. The best way to visit the Rietveld Schröder House is on
boxes, mechanical clocks, pianolas, the ‘singing nightingale’ a specially designed Rietveld-bicycle, which you can rent at
and street organs. Complete your visit to the museum with the ticket desk of the Central Museum. You won’t believe your
an hour-long guided tour, as this is when the automatic instru- eyes in the only house that has ever been erected according
ments are set to play. The repertoire varies from the Viennese to the principles of Neoplasticism. You’ll find yourself face to
waltz and tango to old crooner songs and the latest hits. Not face with basic colours such as red, blue and yellow, typical
only worth it for music fans, but also for those with technical of De Stijl (The Style), combined with white, grey and black.
interests. You can also make an appointment to view the According to Gerrit Rietveld and Truus Schröder, who com-
restoration workshop. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. missioned the house, man has to take an active approach
Admission: €8. J in life and this is why every activity in the house requires a
certain prior action. By folding open a wall you gain access
Railway Museum C-3, Johan van Oldenbarneveltlaan to the bathroom and by shifting other walls you screen off
1, tel. (+31) 302 30 62 06, www.spoorwegmuseum.nl. the sleeping areas. We recommend you reserve a tour in
Don’t let the bland name scare you off. The Railway Museum advance as the house supports only a limited number of visi-
is much more than a collection of everything about trains. It’s tors. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: €9
a wonderland with trains at its focal point. The excitement which is also valid for the Centraal Museum, the Dick Bruna
already begins at the entrance of the 19th-century Malibaan Huis and the Rietveld Schröderhuis.
Station which has been restored to its former glory. The hall
with its chandeliers, first-class dining hall and waiting rooms St. Catherine’s Convent Museum B-3, Lange Nieuw-
take visitors on a trip back in time. The museum is divided straat 38, tel. (+31) 302 31 38 35, info@catharijnecon-
into ‘worlds’ or large studios and the first world is The Great vent.nl, www.catharijneconvent.nl. Located in a beautiful
Discovery. With an audio tour, visitors are led through a mine old building, St. Catherine’s Convent Museum invites visitors
gallery, along English cottages, a workshop and steam en- to discover the past and present of Christianity in the Neth-
gines. The theme of the second world is Dream Travels where erlands. View a truly amusing collection of paintings in which
you can meet the Orient Express, fairytale destinations and Protestants and Catholics mock one another while trying to
luxury. Trains from the 1920s and 1930s belong to the theme convince the other side that their view of Christianity is the
Steel Monsters, and the fourth world, The Workshop, displays correct one. For children the interactive presentation “Feest!
many vehicles and locomotives undergoing maintenance. Dur- Weet wat je viert” (“Feast! Know what you are celebrating”)
ing the coming months this museum will be transformed into is worth a look and adults will find the medieval altar dating
the so called Winter Station (see Culture & Events). QOpen back to 1410 of particular interest. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: €14.50. TJ Closed Mon. Admission: €9. PTJHAUGK
Kanoverhuur Utrecht A-1, Oudegracht 4 aan de werf, Utrechtse Stoombierbrouwerij A-2, Oudegracht 99,
tel. (+31) 302 36 79 05, www.kanoverhuurutrecht.nl. tel. (+31) 302 31 18 64, fax (+31) 302 36 73 77, info@
Most tourists see the Utrecht canals from the safety of a oudaen.nl, www.oudaen.nl. The 13th-century City Castle
waterside pub or a tourist boat, but if you’re up for a little Oudaen has had countless residents over the centuries
adventure, you can also rent a canoe, a Canadian or a small including knights, students and noble families. Despite their
electric boat. A laminated map and a waterproof bag (both different backgrounds, they all shared a common passion:
free) will ensure that nothing will harm you or your belongings. beer. In medieval times everyone, young as well as old,
The worst thing that could happen is that you might get stuck drank beer as clean drinking water was difficult to come
at one of the waterside cafés! QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Open by. Because the brew is cooked, all bacteria die during the
daily March - September. In the autumn or winter by prior brewing process. Therefore, beer was a safe beverage.
appointment. From €4/hour. TJ6 More expensive alternatives, such as tea, coffee, lemonade
and wine were only consumed by the rich. Utrecht alone had
Life on the Streets! B-2, Domplein 9 - 10, tel. (+31) roughly thirty breweries. These were almost all situated along
630 12 30 69, www.utrechtunderground.nl/over. Utre- the Oudegracht, which was, back then, connected to the North
cht used to be crowded with drug addicts who congregated Sea through a tributary of the Rhine. Around 1930, the last
in old tunnels and monastery gardens. Thankfully, in past breweries disappeared from Utrecht. Only in 1990 did the
years things have changed for the better. Utrecht is now a brewing tradition return to the Oudegracht (after 93 years of
pioneer of a zero tolerance policy towards narcotics stressing silence), when the Utrecht City Brewery settled in the vaults of
re-integration and social participation. This method gives liv- City Castle Oudaen. While the Oudaen belongs to the world’s
ing quarters to the homeless and drug addicts so they don’t smaller breweries, it’s a modern business. Each year, about
have to live on the streets. Now you can join in a city tour 75,000 litres of beer are produced. The only steam brewery
that shows you the tough life experienced by the homeless in Utrecht is situated in one of the four underground vaults
and drug addicts in Utrecht. Guided by the people who have which are located beneath street level inside the castle. A
been there and seen it all, this is not your average sightsee- number of the rooms are designed for drinking the beer in
ing tour. Eight (ex) homeless and (ex) drug addicts show you pleasant surroundings, but the absolute eye-catchers are the
the city in an open and honest way. Frank stories mixed with gleaming copper vats that stand at the bottom of the stairs.
a good sense of humor are told and the tours last roughly Four different beers are made here twice a week and are
1.5 hours. They begin in front of the tourist office (VVV) at pumped directly upstairs. Enjoy the most delicious drink in the
the Dom Square (Domplein). Q Reservations can be made world at the most beautiful location in Utrecht and discover
by email or phone. Tours can be experienced in Dutch and why mankind has been consuming this amber liquid for over
English. Tickets: €7.50/person, the minimum costs for a 6,000 years. You can book a tour (for groups of 15 people or
group is €20. J up) through its website. Q TJ
Bowling
Bison Bowling A-3, Mariaplaats 13, tel. (+31) 302
31 18 55, info@bowling.nl, www.bisonbowling.nl. This
friendly place offers plenty of bowling lanes not to mention
food.
Mitland Bowling
E-3, Arienslaan 1 (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 71 20 13,
fax (+31) 302 71 90 03, info@mitland.nl, www.mitland. Upcoming fixtures:
nl. The oldest bowling alley in Utrecht has been renovated and January
now includes the coolest, most modern gadgets. QOpen Date Time Match Venue
17:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 17:00 - 24:00, Sat 17:00 - 01:00, 23 12:30 FC Utrecht v. Ajax SG
Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
February
6 14:30 FC Utrecht v. FC Twente SG
Dance classes 18 20:45 FC Utrecht v. Heracles Almelo SG
Tango La Zapada B-3, Catharijnesteeg 6, tel. (+31) March
302 23 89 27, zap@tangolazapada.nl, www.tangolaza- 6 14:30 FC Utrecht v. Roda JC SG
pada.nl. Utrecht’s favourite Tango school. 13 14:30 FC Utrecht v. FC Groningen SG
Union Salsa Dansschool Photo courtesy of FC Utrecht. Matches take place
B-3, Oudegracht 254, tel. (+31) 653 61 66 66, info@ at Galgenwaard Stadium:
unionsalsa.nl, www.unionsalsa.nl. This organisation
promotes the South-American lifestyle and its culture with Galgenwaard E-5, Herculesplein 24 (Utrecht-City),
dance classes, parties and Portuguese and Spanish language www.fcutrecht.nl. This stadium is hallowed ground for
courses. Q JG all FC Utrecht football fans.
Diving
Aaa Diving A-3, Reigerskamp 633, Maarssen (Utrecht-
Area), tel. (+31) 346 56 87 66. Get certified here so you
can go diving on your next trip. Q
Jos vd Hurk Duiksport shop
D-3, Bekkerstraat 63 (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302
71 56 03.
Press Box
“Solid, reliable information on everything from
where to book a reasonable B&B to how best
to spend 72 hours in a city.”
The Guardian
Blitzz Hairstyling D-5, Adriaen van Ostadelaan 23 Rots Vast Groep Utrecht A-1, Oudegracht 2, tel.
(Utrecht City), tel. (+31) 302 54 00 57, www.hairstyling- (+31) 302 31 94 00, fax (+31) 302 31 50 69, utrecht@
blitzz.nl. Miranda is the friendly owner of this stylish shop. rotsvast.nl, www.rotsvast.nl. Private and commercial real
De Kappers Nobelstraat 153, Zeist, tel. (+31) 302 31 estate. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
70 14, www.dekappers.nl. Students get a discount and the
queues are never long. Specialises in trendy haircuts. QO-
pen 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 12:30 - 18:00, Tue 09:00 - 18:00, Translators & Interpreters
Wed 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Horner Translations D-4, Bloemstraat 3bis (Utrecht-
Haarhoek Coiffures Voorstraat 37, tel. (+31) 302 City), tel. (+31) 302 76 71 11, info@horner.nl, www.
36 75 08, www.haarhoek.nl. You can even make an ap- horner.nl. Are you looking for an expert German-speaker to
pointment for a stylish new haircut at one of two locations serve as a translator? The people here speak all varieties
online. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 21:00. Also at of German from the dialects spoken in Germany to those of
Donkerstraat 10. J Austria, Liechtenstein and Switzerland.
Kinki Kappers B-3, Oudegracht 198, tel. (+31) 302 32 Isa McKechnie Tel. (+31) 647 38 00 72, isa@sryver.nl,
14 66, info@kinki.nl, www.kinki.nl. Kinky is a celebrity www.sryver.nl. A professional, experienced English-Dutch
hairdresser known throughout the Netherlands. translator. Recommended by expats.
Tabou Haar en Jazz B-3, Oudegracht 211, tel. (+31)
302 30 45 01, www.tabouhaarenjazz.nl. While you receive
a haircut you can listen to the newest jazz. This is also one of Space oddity
the best places in the Netherlands for jazz albums.
If you fly KLM frequently and
Language courses have collected plenty of air
miles, you can soon exchan-
James Boswell Instituut E-5, Kriekenpitplein 21/22 ge them for a rather unusual
(Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 53 86 66, www.jbi.uu.nl.
The James Boswell institute is part of Utrecht University and outing. The Netherlands’ lar-
is available for anybody who wants to broaden their skills gest airline will start offering
and knowledge. The institute organises language courses, trips to space in 2014! You’ll
communication workshops and science courses for different also be able to purchase tic-
fields for individuals and groups. kets but at a price of €72,500
Pieter Quint Instituut B-3, Havikstraat 1 (Utrecht- per seat this incredible flight
City), tel. (+31) 302 71 97 39, info@pieterquint.nl, might just be out of your pri-
www.pieterquint.nl. Specialises in providing courses such
as Dutch as a second language. ce range. Competitor Virgin thinks that they’ll
be able to offer a similar trip as soon as 2012
with a rented spacecraft called the Lynx. Here
Laundrettes too, the price-buster is clearly cheaper than the
Cyberwash Selfservice wassalon B-3, Amsterdam- Dutch national carrier. A return trip to space with
sestraatweg 237 (Utrecht-City), tel. (+31) 302 45 90 Virgin will cost ‘only’ $20,000. From a height of
77, info@cyberwash.nl, www.cyberwash.nl. The cosiest 100km, where space supposedly begins, you’ll
and cheapest launderette in Utrecht. Apart from doing your
laundry, you can also work on your tan and check your email.
be able to photograph all of the cities covered
QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. JW by In Your Pocket in one go, or maybe the hole in
Wasserette Kolman B-3, Oudegracht 177, tel. (+31) the ozone layer.
302 31 82 62, fax (+31) 302 31 82 86. Q J