What is cement and how is it made?

Cement is a fine, soft, powdery-type substance. It is made from a mixture of elements that are
found in natural materials such as limestone, clay, sand and/or shale. When cement is mixed
with water, it can bind sand and gravel into a hard, solid mass called concrete.

Cement can be purchased from most building supply stores in bags

Did you know? Four essential elements are needed to make cement. They are Calcium,
Silicon, Aluminum and Iron.

Calcium (which is the main ingredient) can be obtained from limestone, whereas silicon
can be obtained from sand and/or clay. Aluminum and iron can be extracted from bauxite
and iron ore, and only small amounts are needed.

Cement is usually gray. White cement can also be found but it is usually more expensive than
gray cement.

Cement mixed with water, sand and gravel, forms concrete.

Cement mixed with water and sand, forms cement plaster.

Cement mixed with water, lime and sand, forms mortar.

Cement powder is very, very fine. One kilo (2.2 lbs) contains over 300 billion grains, although
we haven't actually counted them to see if that is completely accurate! The powder is so fine it
will pass through a sieve capable of holding water.

Tip: Cement should be stored in a dry area. If it gets wet or damp the powder will turn into a
hard lump.

An example of how cement can be made

1.) Limestone is taken from a quarry. It is the major ingredient needed for making cement.
Smaller quantities of sand and clay are also needed. Limestone, sand and clay contain the
four essential elements required to make cement. The four essential elements are calcium,
silicon, aluminum and iron.

2.) Boulder-size limestone rocks are transported from the quarry to

the cement plant and fed into a crusher which crushes the boulders
into marble-size pieces.
 3.) The limestone pieces then go through a blender where they are
added to the other raw materials in the right proportion.

4.) The raw materials are ground to a powder. This is sometimes

done with rollers that crush the materials against a rotating platform.

5.) Everything then goes into a huge, extremely hot, rotating furnace
to undergo a process called "sintering". Sintering means: to cause
to become a coherent mass by heating without melting. In other
words, the raw materials become sort of partially molten. The raw materials reach about 2700°
F (1480°C) inside the furnace. This causes chemical and physical changes to the raw
materials and they come out of the furnace as large, glassy, red-hot cinders called "clinker".

6.) The clinker is cooled and ground into a fine gray powder. A small
amount of gypsum is also added during the final grinding. It is now
the finished product - Portland cement.

The cement is then stored in silos (large holding tanks) where it awaits distribution.
The cement is usually shipped in bulk in purpose-made trucks, by rail or even by barge or ship.
Some is bagged for those who want small quantities

How to make
a concrete slab
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Easy projects - easy language!

This section contains DIY woodworking and building projects or articles with simple, easy-to-
follow instructions and explanations.

How to prepare the ground, pour and finish concrete

Example: A small shed floor: Part one

A step-by-step example of how to make a concrete slab floor for a 1800mm x 1800mm (6ft x
6ft) garden shed.

The steps for this task are:

Making up the formwork (the frame that borders the concrete and stops it spreading).
Positioning the formwork on prepared level ground.
Fixing the formwork in place with pegs.
Digging a trench around the perimeter of the project.
Mixing and pouring the concrete and placing a piece of reinforcing steel rod.
Screeding and finishing the concrete.
Dismantling the formwork.
Materials you will need:
Approximately 12m (40ft) of 100x25 (1x4) or 100x50 (2x4) for the formwork, brace and
pegs.
Three 40kg (94lb) bags of Portland cement.
0.2 cubic meters (7 cubic ft) sand.
0.3 cubic meters (11 cubic ft) gravel 20mm (3/4") diameter and smaller.
10 meters (30 ft) #3 rebar (which is steel rod that is 10mm (3/8") thick).
Handful of 75mm (3") nails.

Did you know? Cement is sold in bags of varying weights throughout the world.
Common bag weights are: USA 94lb; Canada 87.5lb; UK 112lb; Australasia and parts of
Europe 50kg and 40kg. There are also smaller bags sold as well.

Tools you will need: spade or small shovel; concrete finishing trowel; hammer; level;
measuring tape; pencil; carpenters square; wheelbarrow; bucket.

Instructions

Step 1. Picture above. Step 2. Picture above.

Make up the formwork out of 100x20 (1x4)
or 100x50 (2x4) lumber. The lumber should
be straight but a low quality grade will do
since it will eventually be discarded. The
formwork is the frame that borders the
concrete and stops it from spreading.
Tip: the formwork in this example DOES
NOT have to be made up in place. It can be
made up anywhere on even ground and
carried in place later.
Cut two pieces of formwork lumber exactly
1800mm (6ft) long and cut another two
pieces approximately 2400mm (8ft) long.
Nail the four pieces together so that they
make up a square with inside
measurements of 1800mm x 1800mm (6ft x
Ensure that the formwork frame is square.
This can be done by making the diagonals
equal length. Simply measure diagonally
from corner to corner (see Step 1. picture)
and then measure the other opposing two
corners. The formwork frame is square
when the distance between the opposing
diagonals are equal.
When the formwork frame is square, nail a
piece of lumber on top of the formwork
frame from corner to corner, to make sure
the formwork frame remains square until
pegged in place.
The formwork is now ready to be picked up
and carried into position, but first make sure
that the ground has been prepared, that is,
 6ft).
Step 3. Picture above.
Lay the formwork in place. Ensure that it is
level and then secure it by hammering
pointed 50x50 (2x2) or 50x25 (1x2) pegs at
900mm (3ft) intervals against the outside of
the formwork.
Nail the pegs to the formwork but not all the
way in, as the nail will need to be pulled out
later.
Step 5. Picture above.
Saw off the tops of the pegs so that they
are even with the top of the formwork. The
area is now ready for concrete.
How to make a Simple Garden Chair
Page one: Plans - Materials and Cutting List
Page two: Instructions
Introduction
This garden chair is an extremely simple design and is probably one of the easier chairs to
construct.
made level, with all vegetation and any soft
ground removed.
Step 4. Picture above.
Dig a trench around the perimeter of the
floor area about 100mm (4") deep and
about the width of the spade wide or about
200mm (8"). This is like a 'footing' to give
the perimeter of the concrete floor more
depth and strength, as that is the part of the
floor that will be supporting the shed walls.
Step 6. Picture above.
Lightly hose (dampen) the pour area with
water prior to pouring the concrete. Work as
quickly as possible when placing concrete
in formwork. For instructions on how to mix
concrete click here.
page: 1 2
Building this garden chair merely requires that you cut and drill all the pieces of lumber according
to the detailed plans provided and then assemble all the pieces.

Once all the lumber pieces have been cut and the holes marked and drilled, simply line up the
holes in the various pieces (according to plan), place the bolts in the holes and the chair frame
will take shape automatically!

Below is a drawing of every different piece of wood used in this project and a cross-section
drawing showing all the pieces in place. Each drawing shows angle cuts, dimensions and the
placement of any bolt holes.

To help you even further, the drawings are followed by further explanation, information about
lumber sizes and notes regarding measurements.
All the individual pieces
 [a] Front leg. 90x45 (1 1/2"x 3 1/2") stock. Cut 2 pieces as per plan above.
b] Rear leg. 90x45 (1 1/2"x 3 1/2") stock. Cut 2 pieces as per plan above.
[c] Back support. 90x45 (1 1/2"x 3 1/2") stock. Cut 2 pieces as per plan above.

[d] Seat support. 90x45 (1 1/2"x 3 1/2") stock. Cut 2 pieces as per plan above.
[e] Armrest support. 90x45 (1 1/2"x 3 1/2") stock. Cut 2 pieces as per plan
above.
[f] Common slats. 90x20 (3/4"x 3 1/2") stock. Cut 6 pieces as per plan above.
[h] Front seat slat. 90x20 (3/4"x 3 1/2") stock. Cut 1 piece as per plan above.
[i] Arm rest. 90x20 (3/4"x 3 1/2") stock. Cut 2 pieces as per plan above.

Altogether you will need 6.6 meters (22ft) of 90x45 (1 1/2"x 3 1/2") stock and 6
meters (20ft) of 90x20 (3/4"x 3 1/2") stock.

You will also need 10 galvanized carriage bolts 10mm (3/8") x 100mm (4") with
nuts and washers, and 40 wood screws that are 50mm (2") long.

About lumber and sizes

Only two common stock sizes (widths and thicknesses) are required for this
project.
They are dressed or surfaced 100x50 (2"x4") and 100x25 (1"x4").

When 100x50 (2"x4") lumber is dressed or surfaced, the size becomes

approximately 90x45 (1 1/2"x 3 1/2") which is called the 'actual size'.
When 100x25 (1"x4") lumber is dressed or surfaced, the size becomes
approximately 90x20 (3/4"x 3 1/2") which is called the 'actual size'.

All the measurements referred to in this project are the 'actual sizes'.

Use a lumber that is suitable for exterior use.

Dimensions for this project are both metric and imperial. All measurements are given in
millimeters first, followed by feet and/or inches in brackets ( ). The metric sizes are not an exact
match to the equivalent imperial sizes. A chair built using the metric measurements will be
approximately 1.6% smaller than a chair built using the imperial (ft and in) measurements. The
imperial measurements are more suited to North America. The metric measurements are more
suited to Australasia.

How to make a Simple Garden Chair page: 1 2

Page one: Plans - Materials and Cutting List
Page two: Instructions

Instructions
This garden chair is constructed solely from 100x50 (2x4) and 100x25 (1x4) lumber. Both are
common stock sizes and can be obtained from most lumber stores.
Note that when lumber is dressed or surfaced, the finished (actual) size (width and thickness) is
less than the nominal size. The sizes referred to in this project are the actual sizes.
There is further information on lumber and sizes on the previous page along with detailed
drawings of every part showing dimensions, angle cuts and exact placement of required bolt
holes.

Step 1.
Cut all the individual pieces to the sizes and shapes according to the plans on the previous page.

Step 2.
Mark and drill 10mm (3/8") bolt holes where required according to the plans on the previous page.

Step 3.
Assemble the two side frames.
Lay members [e] and [d] on even ground or bench and then lay members [a],[b] and [c] on top
with the bolt holes in line. Then bolt the members together.
Screw the bottom of member [c] to member [b].
Refer to the side view plan if you need to.
Note that the two side frames will be a mirror image of each other. See fig.1.

Step 4.
Lay the frames on their backs to commence fixing the slats. See fig.2.
Space the side frames 640mm (25 1/2") apart and ensure that they are parallel.
Pre-drill screw holes through the slats (two at each meeting) and then screw the slats in place to
members [c]. See the front view plan for placement.

Step 5.
Stand the chair frames upright ensuring members [d] are parallel. Pre-drill screw holes through
the seat slats (two at each meeting) and then screw the slats in place. See the top view plan for
placement.

Step 6.
Pre-drill screw holes through the two arm rests [i] and then screw them in place to the arm rest
supports [e].
All done!

. Always Wear Safety Equipment

View Full-Size
The first and most important rule of woodworking is to wear appropriate safety equipment. While hearing
protection is necessary for some very noisy tools such as routers and surface planers, and latex gloves may
be necessary when applying finishes, there is no time in the wood shop that you should be without your
safety glasses. Put them on when you enter the shop, and don't take them off until you leave. Your eyesight
is too important to take chances.

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2. Wear Appropriate Clothing
Whenever working in the wood shop, remember to avoid loose-fitting clothing, as you wouldn't want any of
your attire to become entangled in a saw blade or cutting head. Wear clothes that are comfortable for the
environment in which you're working, but also will protect your body from any wayward wood chips that
might result from cutting. Before beginning, remember to remove any dangling jewelry such as neck chains
or bracelets.

3. Avoid Drugs and Alcohol

Intoxicating substances and woodworking are a dangerous mix. Stay out of the wood shop if you are even
remotely under the influence of any intoxicants.

While it may seem harmless for the weekend woodworker to crack open a beer (or six) while working on a
project, avoid the temptation until you're finished with the woodworking. You're going to be much less likely
to encounter a problem if you're clean and sober when working with your power tools.
4. Disconnect Power Before Blade Changes
Whenever you need to change a blade or bit on a power tool, always disconnect the electricity to the power
tool before even beginning the blade change. (Don't just check to see that the switch is off, as a switch could
get bumped or malfunction.) Many a woodworker has lost fingers (or worse) by forgetting this simple but
very important rule. I've seen woodworkers even go as far as to affix the wrenches to the power cables so
there is NO chance they'll forget to disconnect the power.
5. Try Using One Extension Cord
Here's a tip I've used regularly in the past. For all 110-volt power tools in the shop, I use one heavy-duty
extension cord. Not one per tool, but one TOTAL. This way, I'm forced to switch the cord from tool to tool
before the tool can be used. In this manner, you are always remembering to plug and unplug the power
when moving from one tool to another, and you'll be more cognizant of the need to disconnect the power
when making bit or blade changes.
6. Use Sharp Blades & Bits
This one seems like a no-brainer, but a dull cutting tool is a dangerous tool. If a saw blade is not as sharp as
it ideally should be, the tool and the woodworker will have to work harder to complete the desired task. In
such cases, the tool will be more likely to kick-back or bind. Besides, a sharper cutting tool will produce a
cleaner cut, so there are more than just safety advantages here. Keep the blade sharp and clean of pitch,
and you'll be safer and have better results.
7. Always Check for Nails, Screws and Other Metal
Another no-brainer tip which doesn't bear mentioning, so that's why I'm going to mention it: Always check
the stock you're preparing to cut for any metal (nails, screws, staples, etc.) before beginning a cut. Nails and
rapidly spinning saw blades are not a good mix. Not only can this damage the cutting head and the stock,
but at the very minimum, can cause the stock to kick back, which is a common cause of injury. Inspect the
stock (or better yet, use a metal detector) before cutting.
8. Always Work Against the Cutter
Woodworking Power Tools are designed so that the direction that the wood moves through the tool (or the
direction that the tool moves across the wood) is in the opposite direction of the movement of the cutting
head. In other words, a router bit or saw blade should cut against the motion and not with it. The cutter
should cut into the stock, not with the stock.
9. Never Reach Over a Blade to Remove Cut-Offs
When working on a Table Saw, Miter Saw, etc., never put your hands anywhere near the moving blade,
especially when attempting to remove waste or cut-offs. Wait until the blade has stopped moving and THEN
reach for the cut-off. Better yet, once the saw blade has stopped, use a piece of scrap or a push stick to
move the waste away from the blade. Remember that switches can be inadvertently bumped or malfunction,
so just because the blade has stopped, don't relax and put your hands too close.
10. Avoid Distractions
Distractions are a part of everyday life, and working in the wood shop is no different. When you are
summoned or distracted while in the middle of performing an action with a power tool, remember to always
finish the cut to a safe conclusion before dealing with the distraction. Taking your attention away from the
woodworking tool is a recipe for disaster.

Ten Basic Router Bit Shapes

From Chris Baylor,
Your Guide to Woodworking.
FREE Newsletter. Sign Up Now!

Fixed base routers, plunge routers and shapers are all used to apply shaped edges on wood stock. Whether
applying an edge dressing to a larger piece of stock or creating a piece of moulding, the shape to be applied
to the stock is determined by the shape of the router bit in the router's collet. Although there are hundreds of
different router bits, they all are variations of the following ten basic router bit shapes:

Beading Bit

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(c) 2007 Chris Baylor licensed to About.com, Inc.
A beading bit is similar to a roundover bit (below) in that it applies a rounded shape to the edge of the stock.
The difference between a beading bit and a roundover bit is that the beading bit also cuts a square shoulder
on the top and bottom edges of the roundover. Beading bits often have a bearing tip for riding along the
edge of the stock as it is cut.
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Chamfer Bit

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(c) 2007 Chris Baylor licensed to About.com, Inc.
A chamfer is a 45-degree angled cut on the square edge of a piece of stock. Chamfer bits are versatile, in
that one bit can create a number of different-size chamfers based on the depth of the cut. As with the
beading bit, some chamfer bits have a bearing-tip that rides along the edge of the stock.

Cove Bit

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(c) 2007 Chris Baylor licensed to About.com, Inc.
A cove profile is designed to apply a concave, rounded profile. Often, the cove bit is used to match a
beading or roundover shape on the corresponding piece of stock. For instance, drop-leaf tables use
matching cove and bead profiles (called a rule joint). The cove bit often has a bearing-tip for riding along the
edge of the stock. [br][br] Tip: The cove profile is not to be confused with a round nose bit (below), which is
used to make round-bottomed grooves in the middle of a piece of stock.

Dado (Straight-Cutting) Bit

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(c) 2007 Chris Baylor licensed to About.com, Inc.
There are a number of methods that can be used to cut a dado profile, which is a square channel in the
middle of a piece of stock. While there are specialty saw blades used for cutting dadoes on a table saw, a
dado can also be cut with a router using any of a variety of straight-cutting bits. These straight-cutting bits
come in a variety of sizes, they are all similar in that the bit is designed to cut a flat bottom and square sides.
Some straight-cutting bits have a bearing-tip (designed for trimming a piece of laminate applied to the face
of a board), but these bearing-tip bits cannot be used for cutting a dado.

Dovetail Bit

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(c) 2007 Chris Baylor licensed to About.com, Inc.
The dovetail bit is most famous for use in creating tails for dovetail joinery. However, dovetail bits can also
be used to make tapered dadoes and rabbets. A dovetail profile has a flat bottom with angled sides which
are wider at the base. Most dovetail bits do not have a bearing, although a few specific template-style
dovetail jigs require bearing on the shank of the bit.

Ogee Bit

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(c) 2007 Chris Baylor licensed to About.com, Inc.
The Ogee bit, also referred to as a Roman Ogee creates a compound, S-shaped profile. There are a
number of variations on the Ogee profile, with shoulders on the edges or points in the middle of the profile.
As with other edge bits, Ogee router bits often come equipped with a bearing tip.

Rabbeting Bit
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(c) 2007 Chris Baylor licensed to About.com, Inc.
Simply stated, a rabbet is a dado on the edge of a piece of stock. While rabbets can be cut using a table
saw (with a dado blade) or a straight-cutting router bit, there are also specially-designed rabbeting bits,
designed to ride along the edge of the stock (often with a bearing tip).

Round Nose Bit

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(c) 2007 Chris Baylor licensed to About.com, Inc.
The round nose router bit is similar to the cove bit, except that is designed for plunge routing grooves and
flutes in the middle of a piece of stock. Round nose bits, sometimes referred to as core-box bits, can be
used to cut shallow, rounded-bottom grooves of various depths, but to be used properly, the bit should be
plunged until the profile cut into the wood creates a full 180-degree arc.

Roundover Bit

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(c) 2007 Chris Baylor licensed to About.com, Inc.
As mentioned above, the roundover bit creates a rounded profile on the square edge of a piece of stock, and
differs from the beading bit in that no shoulders are cut. Often, only a portion of the roundover bit is used to
create a partial easing of the edge rather than a full 90-degree arc. As with beading bits, roundover bits
sometimes have a bearing-tip.

V-Groove Bit
View Full-Size
(c) 2007 Chris Baylor licensed to About.com, Inc.
Think of a V-groove profile much like a double-chamfer profile to be plunged into the center of a piece of
stock, similar to the way the roundnose bit is used. In this case, however, the profile is a V-shape in the
stock. The V-groove bit can be used at various depths to create grooves of a variety of different widths.

Table Saws - the Workhorses of the Wood Shop

From Chris Baylor,
Your Guide to Woodworking.
FREE Newsletter. Sign Up Now!
The Table Saw is undoubtedly the most versatile machine in any shop, and should be the woodworker's first
machine purchase. A good table saw becomes the centerpiece of the workshop, as the woodworker uses it
to rip, square, miter, groove, shape and join pieces. A quality table saw will make completing nearly any
woodworking project easier.
Table Saw Features: Every table saw should have a smooth, heavy work surface, a handle for raising and
lowering the saw blade, a separate handle for adjusting the angle of the blade and connections for dust
collection. The saw should have a strong motor that starts smoothly with little vibration and enough
horsepower to make deep cuts through harder woods.
Safety Equipment: Every table saw should include a blade guard, to protect the woodworker from the
exposed saw blade, and a large, easily accessible on/off switch. Most modern table saws utilize a large
paddle switch that is pulled to turn on the saw, and pushed to turn it off. As such, when the woodworker's
hands are busy steadying the material being cut, they can turn the saw off merely pressing their knee
against the switch.
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Rip Fence: Perhaps the most important feature to look for when researching which table saw to buy is the
fence. A quality fence should be consistently parallel to the saw blade, and have fine tuning controls for
when the fence needs adjustment. Most larger table saws have a Biesemeyer-style fence that is sturdy
enough for ripping large stock very smoothly and is strong enough to let the woodworker securely clamp a
sacrificial strip or featherboard to the fence.
Miter Gauge: Most table saws include a miter gauge for making angled crosscuts. Better quality saws will
utilize a T-groove in the saw's table to help keep the miter gauge from coming out of the groove when in
use. The miter gauge should glide smoothly without feeling loose and the be clearly marked for setting the
proper cutting angle.
Options: A number of additional tools and jigs are available for the table saw, including tenoning jigs,
stacked dado cutting sets, tapering jigs, panel-cutting jigs and sliding tables. These accessories all can be
used to make the table saw the one machine tool that no workshop should be without.

How to Build & Install a Wall Cabinet

Index>Home Accessories>Built-in Projects>Building Basic
Cabinets>
1. Measure and cut 3/4" plywood
side panels, then cut rabbets and
dadoes, using a router and a
straightedge guide.
3. Measure and cut 3/4" plywood
top and bottom panels, then glue
and clamp the side panels to the
top and bottom panels to form
dado joints. Reinforce the joints
with 2" finish nails driven every
3".
5. Drive 2" finish nails through the 6. Measure height and width
side panel and into the ends of between inside surfaces of
the nailing strip.
2. Drill two parallel rows of 1/4"
holes for pin-style shelf supports
on the inside face of each side
panel. Use a right-angle drill
guide, and a scrap of pegboard
as a template to ensure that
holes line up correctly.
4. Measure, cut, and attach 1 × 3
nailing strip to the back panel,
using glue and 3/4" screws. Set
the back panel into the rabbets at
the back edges of the cabinet.
Secure the back with 1 1/2" wire
nails driven into the cabinet
edges.
cabinet, then cut 1 × 3 face frame
rails 4 3/4" less than the width,
and face frame stiles 4" longer
 between stiles, and reinforce
joints by drilling pilot holes and
driving 4" finish nails through the
stiles into the rails.

How to Build & Install a Base Cabinet

Index>Home Accessories>Built-in Projects>Building Basic
Cabinets>

7. Center the face frame on the 8. Fill nail holes, then sand and
cabinet so overhang on each side finish the cabinet.
is equal, and top edge of the
bottom rail is flush with bottom
shelf surface. Attach the face
frame with glue and 2" finish nails
driven through pilot holes.

9. Mark a level reference line on 10. Position a temporary 1 × 3

the wall where the bottom edge of ledger strip so top edge is flush
the cabinet will be located — 54" with the reference line, then
above the floor is a standard attach the strip to the wall at stud
height. Locate the wall studs, and locations, using 2 1/2" screws.
mark their location below the
reference line.

11. Set cabinet on the temporary
ledger, and brace it in position
with a 2 × 4. Drill counterbored
pilot holes in the nailing strip at
the top of the cabinet, and drive
3" screws into wall studs.
12. Use a level to make sure
cabinet is plumb. If not, loosen
screws slightly and shim behind
the cabinet to adjust it to plumb.
Tighten screws completely, then
score shims with a utility knife
and break off excess.
13. Remove temporary ledger
and patch screw holes, then cut
trim molding to cover gaps
between cabinet and the walls.
Drill pilot holes and attach trim
with 1" finish nails.
14. Build and finish shelves with
pin-style shelf supports. Build or
purchase overlay doors, and
attach them to the face frame.
Sand and finish the cabinets,
then attach hardware and install
shelf support pins and adjustable

Project as Shown
Key Part Material Pieces Size Side panels made from 3/4"
34 plywood have 3/4"-wide, 3/8"-
1/2' 1/2' deep dadoes to hold bottom
A Back panel 1
plywood × 35
panel, and 1/2"-wide, 3/8"-deep
1/4'
rabbets where back panel will
34
3/4' 1/2'x fit. Bottom dado is raised so
B Side panels 2 bottom drawer will be at a
plywood 17
1/4' comfortable height.
16
Bottom 3/4' 3/4'
C 1
panel plywood × 35
1/4'
34
D Supports 1 × 3 oak 2
1/2'
36
3/4'
E Countertop 2 1/4'
plywood
× 18'
F Face frame 1 × 3 oak 15 linear ft.
31
G Bottom rail 1 × 6 oak 1
1/4'
H Overlay drawers
I Trim molding 12 linear ft.

Face frame includes 1 × 6 bottom

rails, and 1 × 3s for the stiles and
other rails. Cut and assemble face
frame, following dimensions shown.
 1. Cut 3/4" plywood side and
bottom panels, and 1/2"
plywood back panel. Cut
rabbets and dadoes, and
assemble the pieces with glue
and 2" finish nails.

2. Measure, cut, and install two 1 × 3 3. Measure, cut, and assemble

supports to fit between the side panelsface frame.
at the top of the cabinet. Attach with
2" finish nails driven through the side
panels.

4. Mark location of wall studs in 5. Anchor the cabinet by driving

project area, then set cabinet in place. 3 1/2" screws through the back
Check with a level and shim under panel and into wall studs just
cabinet, if necessary to level it. below the top of the cabinet.
Toenail the side panels to the floor at
shim locations, using 2" finish nails.
Score shims, and break off excess.

6. Install tracks for two center- 7. Attach drawer slides for