Table of Contents

TABLE OF CONTENTS 1

GENERAL DISCUSSION ON GARMENTS: 2

MAINLY THREE ITEMS ARE EXPORTED FROM BANGLADESH: 2

WOVEN GARMENTS: 2
1) SHIRT 2
2) PANTS 2
3) BERMUDA (¾ OF PANTS) 2
4) SHORTS 2
5) COAT/ BLAZER/ JACKET 2
6) WAIST COAT/ VEST 2
7) SKIRT 2
8) BLOUSE ( LADIES ITEM) 2
9) DRESS: LADIES ITEM 2
10) PAJAMA SET: LADIES ITEM 2
11) TRENCH COAT 2
12) GILET: SLEEVELESS THICK JACKET. 2
13) PARKA: JUST COLOR PART. 2
14) CAPRIS: LADIES ITEM. 2
15) OVERALL: WORK WEAR. 2
15) COVERALL: WORK WEAR. 2
KNITWEAR: 2
1) T-SHIRT 2
2) POLO-SHIRT 2
3) TANK TOP 2
4) SWEAT SHIRT (MADE BY LYCCRA FABRIC) 2
5) HOODY (FULL SLEEVE SWEAT SHIRT WITH HOOD) 2
6) BRIEFS (MEN UNDER WEAR) 2
7) WOMEN LINGERIE (PANTIES BRA ETC) 2
8) TIGHTS/HOSE (LADIES WEAR) 2
9) BOXER SHORTS (FOR MEN) 2
10) SPORTS WEAR 2
11) SOCKS 2
12) GLOVES & MITTEN 2
SWEATER: 2
1) PULLOVER/ JUMPER/ SWEATER: 2
2) SLIP OVER: 2

1|Page
3) VEST/WAIST COAT: 2
4) CARDIGAN: 2
5) ZIP UP SWEATER: 2
6) HALF ZIP SWEATER: 2
OUTER WEAR: 2
1) RAIN COAT 2
2) WIND BREAKER 2
3) TRACK SUIT 2

YEARN DYED KNITWEAR: 2

STRIPE: 2

GARMENTS BUYERS: 2

USA: 2
EUROPE: 2

MAJOR EXPORTING COUNTRIES: 2

TRADER: 2

SEASONS: 2

LEAD TIME: 2

GSP (GENERALIZED SYSTEM OF PREFERENCE): 2

TOTAL GARMENTS PROCEDURE: 2

THREE MULTINATIONAL COMPANIES: 2

LOGISTIC FIRMS: 2

MULTINATIONAL COURIER COMPANIES: 2

ICD (INLAND CONTAINER DEPOT): 2

TRIMS, PACKING & FINISHING: 2

2|Page
AQL (ACCEPTABLE QUALITY LEVEL): 2
LET'S TAKE A HYPOTHETICAL INSPECTION OF A 30 000 PIECES LOT. 2

TRIMS / ACCESSORIES: 2

A) SEWING ACCESSORIES: 2
1) SEWING THREAD: 2
2) INTERLINING: 2
3. LINING: 2
5. ZIPPER: 2
6. LABELS: 2
a) Main label 2
c) Care label 2
7. RIB: 2
8. SHOULDER PAD: 2
9. HOOK AND LOOP: 2
B) FINISHING ACCESSORIES: 2
1. BUTTON: 2
1. SNAP: 2
2. SHANK BUTTON 2
3. EYELETS: 2
4. RIVETS: 2
5. HOOK AND EYE 2

COMMON FABRIC USED IN GARMENTS : 2

WOVEN: 2
(A) PLAIN WEAVE/POPLIN WEAVE 2
(1) Poplin 2
(2) Canvas 2
(3) Calico 2
(4) Sheeting 2
(5) Taffettta 2
(6) Taslon 2
(7 ) Flannel: Brushed fabric. 2
(8 ) Ottoman: Used in Pants. 2
(9)Chambery: use Shirt 2
(10) Checks and plaids 2
(C) TWILL WEAVE: 2
TYPES OF DENIM: 2
(D) DOBBY WEAVE 2

3|Page
(E) JACQUARD WEAVE 2

STITCH: 2

STITCH TYPES: 2

1) STITCH CLASS-100 2
SUB- CLASS-101 2
SUB- CLASS 103: 2
2) STITCH CLASS-200 ( HAND STITCH) 2
SUB CLASS-202 2
SUB CLASS-209 2
3) STITCH CLASS-300 (LOCK STITCH) 2
SUB CLASS-301 2
SUB CLASS -304: 2
4) STITCH CLASS-400 (MULTI-THREAD CHAIN STITCH) 2
SUB-CLASS-401 2
SUB CLASS 406: 2
SUB CLASS 407: 2
5) STITCH CLASS-500 (OVERLOCK OR OVEREDGE) 2
SUB CLASS -503 2
SUB CLASS 504: 2
SUB CLASS 514: 2
515(COMBINATION STITCH) 2
516(COMBINATION STITCH) 2
6) STITCH CLASS -600(COVERING CHAIN STITCH): 2
SUB CLASS 602: 2
SUB CLASS 605: 2
SUB CLASS 606: 2

SEAM TYPES, PROPERTIES AND USEGES: 2

1) SEAM CLASS -1 (SUPER IMPOSED SEAM) 2

2) SEAM CLASS-2 (LAPPED SEAM) 2
3) SEAM CLASS -3 (BOUND SEAM) 2
4) SEAM CLASS -4 (FLAT SEAM) 2
5) SEAM CLASS -5 (DECORATIVE SEAM): 2
6) SEAM CLASS -6 (EDGE NEATENING) 2
7) SEAM CLASS -7: 2
8) SEAM CLASS -8 : 2

4|Page
GARMENT DEFECTS: 2

1. FABRIC DEFECTS: 2
2. WORKMANSHIP AND HANDLING DEFECTS: 2
3. TRIMS, ACCESSORIES AND EMBELLISHMENT DEFECTS: 2
1.CRITICAL: 2
2. MAJOR: 2
3. MINOR: 2
TYPICAL DEFECTS: 2
1. FABRIC DEFECTS: 2
2.WORKMANSHIP DEFECT: 2
a) Seam Puckering 2
b) Shading Variations within different parts: 2
c) Open seam or broken seam: 2
d) Broken Stitch: 2
e) Drop stitch/Skipped stitch: 2
f)Wavy/staggered stitching: 2
g) Uncut/ loose thread : 2
h) Sizing defects (Difference in measurement of various parts of garments): 2
I) Poor ironing- 2
j) misaligned buttons and holes 2
3. TRIMS, ACCESSORIES AND EMBELLISHMENT DEFECTS: 2

PRESSING AND FINISHING: 2

OBJECTS OF PRESSING: 2
CATEGORIES OF PRESSING: 2
1. NO PRESSING: 2
2. MINIMUM PRESSING: 2
3. UNDER PRESSING: 2
4. FINAL PRESSING: 2
5. PERMANENT PRESSING: 2

PACKING: 2

CATEGORIES OF ASSORTMENT IN CARTON: 2

COMMON MACHINE USED IN GARMENTS : 2

1) PLAIN MACHINE (PM): 2

5|Page
2) TWO NEEDLE MACHINE: 2
3) OVERLOCK MACHINE : 2
A) 3 THREAD OVERLOCK 2
B) 4 THREAD OVERLOCK 2
C) 5 THREAD OVERLOCK 2
4) FLAT LOCK MACHINE 2
5) KANSA MACHINE : 2
6) BARTACK MACHINE . 2
7) BUTTON HOLE MACHINE 2
8) EYLET HOLE MACHINE 2
9) BUTTON ATTACHING MACHINE. 2

TICKET NO: 2

M/C LAY-OUT OF A SHIRT: 2

M/C LAY-OUT OF A PANTS: 2

M/C LAY-OUT OF A T-SHIRT: 2

M/C LAY-OUT OF A POLO-SHIRT: 2

SEWING THREAD: 2

1.POLYESTER CORESPUN THREAD: 2

2. SPUN POLYESTER THREAD: 2
3. STAPLE SPUN COTTON THREAD: 2
4. TEXTURED POLYESTER THREAD: 2
5. POLYESTER COTTON CORESPUN THREAD: 2
6. TRILOBAL POLYESTER THREAD: 2

6|Page
General discussion on Garments:
Mainly three items are exported from Bangladesh:
1. Woven
2. Knit
3. Sweater

Woven garments:
1) Shirt
a) Basic shirt/ Dress shirt/ Formal shirt.

b) Casual shirt/ Pilot shirt.

7|Page
2) Pants
a) Basic pants/ Dress pants/ Formal pants/ Chino pants

c) Casual pants e.g. cargo pants

3) Bermuda (¾ of pants)

8|Page
4) Shorts

5) Coat/ Blazer/ Jacket

6) Waist coat/ Vest

9|Page
7) Skirt

8) Blouse ( ladies item)

9) Dress: ladies item

10 | P a g e
10) Pajama set: ladies item

11) Trench coat

12) Gilet: sleeveless thick jacket.

11 | P a g e
13) Parka: just color part.

14) Capris: ladies item.

15) Overall: work wear.

12 | P a g e
15) Coverall: work wear.

Knitwear:
1) T-shirt

2) Polo-shirt

13 | P a g e
 3) Tank top

4) Sweat shirt (made by lyccra fabric)

There are two types of sweat shirt. They are 1) short sleeve &2) Long sleeve

5) Hoody (full sleeve sweat shirt with hood)

14 | P a g e
 6) Briefs (men under wear)

7) Women lingerie (panties bra etc)

8) Tights/hose (ladies wear)

9) Boxer shorts (for men)

15 | P a g e
10) Sports wear

11) Socks

12) Gloves & mitten

16 | P a g e
Sweater:
1) Pullover/ jumper/ sweater:
Full sleeve sweater and no button used.

2) Slip over:
Sleeveless sweater and button used.

3) Vest/waist coat:
Sleeveless and button used at front.

17 | P a g e
4) Cardigan:
Full sleeve vest and button used at front.

5) Zip up sweater:
Full sleeve sweater with zipper at front

6) Half zip sweater:

Sleeveless sweater with 1/3 zip at front.

18 | P a g e
Outer wear:
1) Rain Coat

2) Wind Breaker

3) Track Suit

19 | P a g e
Yearn dyed knitwear:

Stripe:
Stripe is two types. They are

a) Feeder stripe: stripe line width up to 3 inch

b) Engineering stripe: stripe line width above 3inch

Printed fabric: Overall printed fabric

Garments buyers:
Europe exports about 60% of garments USA exports about 30% of garments & other country
exports about 10% of garments. Export flowchart of garments given bellow:

Consumer

Retailer

Manufacturer

USA:
 Levie’s(Dockers, Zevistrauss)
 Wall-mart(AZDA)
 VF Asia (Lee, Wrangler, Nautica)
 PVH (Philliphes Van Heusan)
 JC penny
 Academy
 GAP
 Perriellis
 Adidas
 Nike
 Kohis

20 | P a g e
EUROPE:
 H & M (Sweden)
 Tesco(UK)
 Marks and Spancer(UK)
 Zara(UK)
 C & A (Germany)
 Carrefour(France)
 Tema(Turkey)
 Puma(Germany)
 S’ Olivers(Spain)
 Mango(Spain)

Major exporting countries:

 China
 Vietnam
 Indonesia
 Pakistan
 India
 Bangladesh
 Shrilanka
 Combodia
 Thailand
 Turkey

Trader:
Trader works as a middle man in between the buyer and exporter, who plays an important role in
developing the product and sending it to the buyer. Some traders are

 Li and Fung(Hong Kong)

 Mondial
 ZXY
 Asmara(India)
 Linmark(Hong Kong)
 Comptextile (Srilanka)

21 | P a g e
SEASONS:
In Europe, there are four seasons. These are,

 Spring
 Summer
 Autumn
 Winter
But in USA, three seasons are considered. These are,

 Spring
 Summer
 Fall (Autumn & Winter)

Lead time:
Time up to shipment of goods from the order placement date, is called lead time. Lead time is
very important for successful export of garments and need to be fixed with great care.

GSP (Generalized System of Preference):

This is the export facilities/ advantage, which Bangladesh gets from the importing countries.
GSP will be valid if Bangladesh export garment goods made from locally produced fabrics.

Total garments procedure:

1. Costing / Production space confirmation / Price quotation:
Total Cost = Fabric cost + Trims cost + CM cost

Factors to be considered for costing:

a. Technical package/ Order sheet/ PDM

Technical package includes-

Sketch, BOM, size specification sheet, packing details, hang tag etc.

2. Space availability.
3. Order confirmation.
4. Purchase order (P.O) sent by buyer.
5. Sales Contact.
6. Master LC/TT (Letter of credit/Telegraphic transfer)
22 | P a g e
 7. Time and Action calendar (T & A calendar)
8. Fabric and Accessories booking.
9. Back to Back L/C opening.
10.Sampling:
a. Proto- sample (with available fabric & trims.)
b. Fit sample (with available trims and fabrics): To check
measurement and fittings of the garments.
c. Pre-production sample (Actual trims and fabrics): To approve
sample before bulk production. Her e 4 copy of swatch board is
prepared form which 2copies are sent to the buyer , 1 copy is sent
to the merchandising counter and 1 copy is required for production
.
d. Size set sample: It is used for internal purpose, made from actual
fabrics and trims of different sizes.
e. Production sample/Top sample: these are picked from production
floor and sent to buyer for approval.
f. GMT test sample: These samples are also picked from production
floor and sent to testing companies such as SGS, ITS, BU.
g. Shipment sample: These sample are sent to buyer after shipment. It
is not mandatory.
11.Fabrics and Trims in house and inventory report.
12.Pre-production meeting (PP meeting), that’s are include,
a. Pattern master.
b. Cutting master.
c. Production manager.
d. Quality controller of buyer .
e. Quality controller of factory.
f. Merchandiser of buyer.
g. Merchandiser of factory.

13. Pattern checking & Marker making.

14.Trial cutting .
15.Bulk cutting.
16.Numbering, bundling and sorting.
17.Production line set-up:
Arrangement of machine. Input of first machine is cutting and output of last
machine is production of garments.
18. Bulk Sewing.
Inline inspection: It is a inspection process which is done during production
running by buyer QC to confirm right quality of garments end of the day.
23 | P a g e
 19.See vessel/ Cargo booking.
20.Finishing & ironing & packing.
21.Final inspection booking.
22.Final inspection.
23. Inspection Certificate
24.Delivery.

Three multinational companies:

Which can fact garment inspection, garments testing, fabric testing, trims testing and garments
factory auditing.

1. SGS: Kawran bazaar.

2. Bureau veritas: Dhaka EPZ.
3. ITS (Intertek testing service): T.K bhabon.

Logistic firms:
1. Marks
2. MGH.
3. APL.
4. Kuhen and Negal.
5. Expolonca.

Multinational courier companies:

1. DHL.
2. UPS.
3. TNT.
4. SKYNET.
5. Aramex.
6. DPEX.
7. FedEx.

ICD (Inland container depot):

For hanging garments export.

24 | P a g e
Trims, Packing & Finishing:
AQL (Acceptable Quality Level):
The standard definition of Acceptable Quality Level (AQL) is "the maximum
defective percent (or the maximum number of defects per hundred units) that, for
purpose of sampling inspection, can be considered satisfactory as a process
average".

Basically, we will randomly select a sampling size quantity (based on the AQL
tables) to be inspected, and after inspection, according to the number of defects
found (critical, major, minor defects), we will advise you to accept or to reject your
shipment.
Table A

Table B

25 | P a g e
 Let's take a hypothetical inspection of a 30 000 pieces lot.
► The Table A, under the column level II, gives us the letter M, which corresponds in
the table B to a sampling size of 315 pieces to inspect. The usual AQL used by people is
generally: 0 / 2.5 / 4 for Critical / Major / Minor defects. For the letter M, 315 pieces to
inspect, the column 2.5 for defects gives us two numbers: 14 & 15. Thus Among a
sampling size of 315 pieces inspected, the maximum number of major defects authorized
is 14.

► If we find 15 major defects, you should reject your shipment and / or perform defect
sorting, ask for a re-work of the production or ask for a replacement of your production.
Then you should get your shipment re-inspected a second time.

Trims / accessories:
Accessories can be divided into 2 groups-

a) Sewing accessories b) Finishing accessories

a) Sewing accessories:
1) Sewing thread:
2) Interlining: It may be of 2 types-fusible and
non-fusible

Also can be divided into 2 other types-woven and

non-woven

TC interlining is widely used to avoid shrinkage

problem of 100% cotton interlining.

Pellon (also called paper interlining) is also acceptable to save cost.

Uses: Used in waist band, belt loop, fly piece, collar, cuff and any place where strength of the
material is necessary.

3. Lining: extra fabric (different from main/shell fabric) that is used inside the garment. E.g.
Jacket, blazer etc.

26 | P a g e
 4. Elastic: It is made of lycra (Spandex).
Available in different width- ½’’, ¾’’,1’’, 1.5’’,2’’ etc.

It may be of different colors and it is found with

different strechability.

Uses: For kids (up to 10-11) trousers and shorts,

buttonhole elastic must be used.

Also used for the bottom waistband of a jacket, vest or

pull-over shirt.

5. Zipper:
-It has mainly 4 parts- stopper, slider, tape and teeth.

-Zipper length is measured from stopper to stopper.

-Tape is normally made of nylon or polyester to avoid

shrinkage.

-zipper teeth are normally made of golden brass, antique

brass, antique nickel, antique copper, aluminium, plastic,
or nylon.

-It may be of several types-

a) Half-finished products: chain and slider

b) Finished products: Open-end, close-end etc.

6. Labels:
It may be of 2 types- woven label and printed label

Normally 3 types of labels are used in apparel industry-

a) Main label : contains brand name, company name or country

name

27 | P a g e
 b) Size label : contains size
of the garment.

c) Care label : contains

fabric composition and care
instructions and also the
name of the country of
origin.
SIZE LABEL
CARE LABEL

7. Rib: Used in collar and cuff of T-shirt and polo shirt.

8. Shoulder Pad: Normally used in blazer and jacket.

9. Hook and loop: Commercial name is ‘Velcro’. Normally used in stead of button to ease
to open and close a particular part.

B) Finishing accessories:
1. Button: May be made of plastic or metal.
Normally size of the button is measured by ‘ Ligne’.

1 ligne = 0.635 mm

For example, 1 8L , 24L, 32L etc. All these in fact refers to the circumference of button.

28 | P a g e
1. Snap: kind of button with 2 parts. No button hole.

2. Shank button: kind of button without hole. Eyelet hole (button hole) is needed to
attach shank button.

3. Eyelets: Metal part with hole through which lace, draw string etc passes.

4. Rivets: Metal part with pin and normally used in

denim and canvas pants for decorative purpose.

5. Hook and eye: Metal items to close waist of pants.

29 | P a g e
7.Draw string: long rope-type item with stopper to tighten a part of the garment.

8.Price Ticket: Also known as UPC (Unit price code) ticket in

the garment industry. It is paper-made tag which normally mentions
price and bar code. Barcode sticker may be attached separately on it.

9. Pocket Flasher: Normally used in pockets of trousers.

10. Stay: Used in collar points of a shirt.

11. Collar stand, neck board and back board & butterfly :
Used in shirt.

12. Hang Tag: Separate tag hung in a garment.

30 | P a g e
Common Fabric used in Garments :
Woven:
(a) Plain Weave/Poplin weave:
(1) Poplin:
110*76
45*45

(2) Canvas:
76*42
7*7

Use: Pants, Casual Blazer, Cargo Pants

(3) Calico:
72*56
14*14

Use: Apron, Dress etc.

31 | P a g e
(4) Sheeting:
64*64
32*32

(5) Taffettta:
120*90
70D*70D

Made of nylon or Polyester

Use: Blezer, Lining
(6) Taslon:
120*90
70D*140D

32 | P a g e
 (7 ) Flannel: Brushed fabric.

(8 ) Ottoman: Used in Pants.

(9)Chambery: use Shirt

Colored warp yarn and white filling or weft yarn

33 | P a g e
(10) Checks and plaids

(B) Oxford weave/Basket weave:

Use :Shirt

(C) Twill weave:

(1) Basic Twill

3*1,4*1,2*1

34 | P a g e
Types of Denim:
(a)Basic Denim:

(b)Cross-hatch Denim

(c)Ring Denim

(d)Slub Denim

35 | P a g e
(3)Herring bone Twill

(4) Broken Twill:

Use: Pants/Casual

(5) Sateen or satin

(D) Dobby weave : It is the combination of Twill weave and plain weave

Use: Shirt

36 | P a g e
(E) Jacquard weave : This weave is used to produce any design in fabric.

Use : Shirt.

Stitch:
Stitch is a kind of loop formed by -

a) Interlacing
b) Interloping
c) Intralooping

Stitch Types:
1) Stitch Class-100
(Single thread chain stitch)

Sub- Class-101
Use: For temporary stitching.

Sub- Class 103: Blind stitch

It is invisible.

Use: Bottom hemming of pants/Trousers.

2) Stitch class-200 ( Hand Stitch)

Sub Class-202
Sub Class-209
Use: For topstitching of lapel of blazer/coat.

37 | P a g e
 3) Stitch Class-300 (Lock Stitch)
Sub Class-301
Formed with at least 2 sets of thread-one set thread is called needle thread and another set
of thread is called bobbin thread. It has no elasticity.
Use: Top stitching.

Sub Class -304:

It has stretchable. Use: For attaching elastic and lace to the garment.

4) Stitch Class-400 (Multi-thread chain stitch)

Formed with at least one set of needle thread and one set of looper thread.

Sub-Class-401
One needle thread and one looper thread. Use: Waist band of gins.

Sub Class 406:

Two needle and one looper thread. It is called Flat lock.

Use: for hemming of knit tops of knit garments.

Sub Class 407:

Three needle thread and one looper thread. Use: For attaching elastic band to panties, briefs etc.

5) Stitch class-500 (Overlock or Overedge)

Sub Class -503
One needle and one lopper. Use: For serging on edge of fabric.

Sub Class 504:

One needle and two looper thread. Use: For serging and light seaming of garments.

Sub Class 514:

Two needle and two lopper. Also knows an 3 thread over lock. Use: For serging and
heavy of garments.

515(Combination stitch)
→401.503=(1 Needle thread +1 Looper thread ).(1 N T +1 L T )

→Also knows an 4 thread over lock.

38 | P a g e
516(Combination stitch)
→401.504=(1 Needle thread +2 Looper thread ).(I N T +2 L T)

→Also knows an 5 thread over lock.

USE: Side seam shirts, trousers etc.

Advantage: Stitches are winder, secured and comfortable.

6) Stitch class -600(covering chain stitch):

→At least 3 thread are used .one thread is called needle thread and two thread and called looper
thread or to and bottom covering thread.

Sub class 602:

→ With the addition as top covering thread.

(2 needle thread + 2 looper thread).

USE: Bottom hemming of T-shirt, polo shirt and sleeve joining of the T-shirt etc it can be used
as decorative by using contrast color thread as top covering thread.

Sub class 605:

→ With the addition as top covering thread.

→(3 needle thread +2 looper thread).

USE: Undergraments.

Sub class 606:

→(4 needle thread and 5 looper thread).

USE: Undergraments.

SEAM TYPES, PROPERTIES AND USEGES:

1) Seam class -1 (Super imposed seam)
→Here ends of this fabric are placed once over another and this
sewn alongaid ends use side of shirt and pants.

Use: Side seam of shirt and pants.

39 | P a g e
 2) Seam class-2 (lapped seam)
→Hear sewing is done on over lapping portion of fabric.

USE: Out seam /Inseam /of jeans lungi etc.

3) Seam class -3 (Bound seam)

→Hear edge of fabric is bounded by an Additional strip is fabric.

USE: Neck of T-Shirt, side pocket of pants by using contrast color strip, decorative look can be
produced.

4) Seam class -4 (Flat seam)

→Hear ends of the fabric are placed side by side and this sewn together.

USE: Cut and sew garments, under garments.

40 | P a g e
5) Seam class -5 (Decorative seam):
It is used for decorative purpose of garments.

6) Seam class -6 (Edge neatening)

7) Seam class -7:

→ This seam is used when it is required to attach elastic, lace, or additional part to the garments.

8) Seam class -8 :
→Sewing is done on self fabric .e.g. Belt loop ,Bottom loop shirt and pant plate of shirt.

Garment Defects:
Garment defects can be separated into 3 categories:

1. Fabric defects:
These are defects that are found in the fabric, mostly these are not caused by the sewing lines.
e.g. running shade, selvedge to selvedge shade, holes, staining mark, missing yarn, foreign yarn,
slub, hairiness etc.

2. Workmanship and handling defects:

These are defects that are directly caused by production section, this would include both the
cutting and sewing section. Buyer’s approved samples must be referred to maintain perfect
workmanship.

Note: Workmanship means all the details such as measurement, outlook, ways of attaching
trims, packing etc.

41 | P a g e
3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:
These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels, sewing thread, screen
print , embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining , button and any kind of trims.

Defects are also classified (as per extent of defect) into Critical, Major and Minor defects.

1.Critical: defects are defects that are not allowed to be shipped and are the most serious of
defects (0%).

2. Major: defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain percentage (3%)
depending on buyers requirements.

3. Minor: defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain percentage (5%)
depending on buyers requirements.

Typical Defects:
1. Fabric defects:
Fabric inspection method.

2.Workmanship defect:
a) Seam Puckering: refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after
laundering causing an unacceptable seam appearance.

This problem arises due to uneven stretching on to plies of fabric during sewing , improper
thread tension , wrong sewing thread selection , dimensional instability of the plies of fabric etc.

b) Shading Variations within different parts: arises due to improper cutting , bundling
and numbering .

c) Open seam or broken seam: Portion of the garment that has not been covered by sewing
thread.

This happens due to improper handling of the parts of garments , improper setting and timing
between needle and looper or hook etc.

d) Broken Stitch: Non-continuous sewing thread.

It appears due to improper trimming or machine usage.

e) Drop stitch/Skipped stitch: Irregular stitching along the seam. It appears due to improper
handling of cut pieces or machine usage.

42 | P a g e
f)Wavy/staggered stitching:
Stitches are not straight. It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces , faulty feed
mechanism , needle deflection or wrong needle.

g) Uncut/ loose thread :

Extra thread or loose thread on seam line. It appears due to improper trimming or finishing.

h) Sizing defects (Difference in measurement of various parts of garments):

Wrong placement of pocket, buttonhole, embroidery and prints , measurement discrepancy- all
these problems come from pattern section.

I) Poor ironing- if not sufficient, there might be creases and crinkles on garment surface and
if ironing is too heavy, there might be shining mark on garment.

j) misaligned buttons and holes ,unfinished buttonhole, missing buttons, wrong

placement of labels, hang tag, wrong folding or poor folding , improper packing into cartons – all
these defects come from finishing section.

3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:

Unmatched color of thread, button and zipper tape, short zippers, faulty zippers, wrong labels,
improper size of the labels, printing mistake of labels and cartons, broken poly bag , wrong
hanger, improper embroideries and prints etc.

Pressing and Finishing:

Pressing is a finishing process done by heat and pressure. In garments factory, it is a also known
as ‘Ironing’’.

Objects of pressing:
1. To remove unwanted crease and crinkles.

2. To soften particular parts of garments.

E.g. front and back part of dress, pants, shoulder pad of blazer.

3. To create effect of crease on garments. E. g. Lapel of blazer, pleat of skirt.

Categories of pressing:
1. No pressing: No pressing is required. E.g. knitted garments
specially under garments.
43 | P a g e
 2. Minimum pressing: Only heat is applied and no pressure.
E.g. sweater.
3. Under pressing: parts o some particular garments are pressed
before sewing to smoothen sewing process. E.g. front and back
parts dress pants and blazer.
4. Final pressing: At high temp. and pressure pressing is done
before packaging.
5. Permanent pressing: Permanent crease effect is produce by
pressing. E.g. Lapel of blazer, pleat of skirt, dirt of pants.

Packing:
Categories of assortment in carton:
1. Solid size solid color.
2. Solid size assorted color.
3. Assorted size solid color.
4. Assorted size assorted color.

Common Machine used In Garments :

1) Plain Machine (PM):
Single needle Lock stitch Machine

2) Two Needle Machine:

Chain stitch or Lock stitch machine

3) Overlock Machine :
a) 3 Thread overlock
3 OL or 3 O/L Stitch class-504

44 | P a g e
b) 4 Thread overlock
4 O/L Stitch Class- 401.503

c) 5 Thread overlock
5O/L Stitch class-516=401.504

4) Flat lock Machine

Stitch class- 406,407,602,605,606

45 | P a g e
5) Kansa Machine :

Use: Used for Multithred operation

Up to 33 needles can be used Simultanously

6) Bartack Machine .

46 | P a g e
 7) Button Hole Machine

8) Eylet Hole Machine

9) Button attaching Machine.

Ticket No:
The no which is used to express the fineness or coarseness of thread is called Ticket no.

Example: If,

Count= 90\3

Resultant count= 30

So, ticket no. = resultant count * 3 = 30*3 = 90

47 | P a g e
M/C lay-out of a shirt:
1. Single needle plain machine (PM)

- For joining collar, cuff, collar band, yoke , pocket and label.

2. Two needle plain m/c

- For top stitching of front and back part and arm hole.

3. Overlock (5 thread)/ 5 OL

- For side seam and sleeve joining

4. Kansai Special

- Box pleat or multi-needle sewing, bottom & cuff with elastic in jacket.

M/C lay-out of a pants:

1. Single needle plain machine (PM)

- Waist band joining, belt loop joining, side seam and inseam top stitch, zipper fly joining, zipper
joining, side pocket joining, bottom hem.

2. Two needle plain m/c

- front and back rise top stitch, side seam/ inseam top stitch of denim

3.Overlock (3 thread)/ 3 OL

- front and back rise

4.Overlock (5 thread)/ 5 OL

- for inseam and side seam; side pocket making

5. Bartack m/c – belt loop and bottom of fly zipper

6. Flat lock m/c- for loop making

7.Button hole, button attaching m/c and eyelet hole m/c for denim

8. Chain stitch m/c – normally used in waistband of denim.

48 | P a g e
M/C lay-out of a T-shirt:
1. Overlock (3 OL/4 OL)

- Sleeve joining, side seam and neck(rib) joining

2. Flat lock m/c(2needle+1 looper) Stitch Class-406

- For sewing sleeve and bottom hem

3. Single needle plain m/c (PM)

- for top stitching of shoulder, sleeve and neck.

4. Feed of the arm/ Back tape m/c(2needle+2looper) Double stitch class- 406.

- For joining tape inside neck or shoulder or outside neck.

M/C lay-out of a Polo-shirt:

1. Single needle plain m/c

- for topsin (topstitching) , rib cuff joining, collar joining

2. Flat lock m/c

- for joining arm hole, shoulder and bottom& sleeve hem.

3. Overlock (4 OL)

-sleeve and side seam joining

4. Button hole and button attaching m/c

Sewing Thread:
Types of Sewing thread being used in the garments industry of Bangladesh
1.Polyester Corespun Thread

2.Spun Polyester Thread

3.Staple Spun Cotton Thread

4.Textured Polyester Thread

5.Polyester Cotton Corespun Thread

6.Trilobal Polyester Thread

49 | P a g e
1.Polyester Corespun Thread:
This type of thread is produced by spinning staple polyester fibre around a core of high
tenacity continuous filament polyester in yarn-spinning operation. Two or more of these
composite yarns are then twisted together to give the necessary size and tensile strength.

e.g. Epic(Coats).

Uses: Mainly used in topstitching of shirts, blouses, trousers, sportswear , jeans & work
clothes.

Key Characteristics:

- Exceptionally strong.

- The continuous filament core (Having high tenacity) provides superior strength while the
staple polyester cover helps to protect the inner core from damage due to needle heat.

- Its resistance to abrasion helps ensure long seam life in a wide variety of materials.

- Fine threads can be used for delicate fabric without compromising on strength, thereby
avoiding problems like seam pucker.

2. Spun Polyester Thread:

Staple polyester fibres are spun into polyester yarn. Then two or more of spun polyester yarns
are twisted together to produce spun polyester thread. e.g. Astra (Coats)

50 | P a g e
Key Characteristics:

- High tenacity of polyester ensures greater strength and thereby high abrasion resistance.

- Very least amount of shrinkage (less than 1%) compared to cotton thread.

Uses: Mainly for overedging. Also used for general seaming of shirts, trousers, knitwear, jackets,
blouses etc.

3. Staple Spun Cotton Thread:

Normally long staple cotton fibres are spun into cotton yarn. Then two or more ply of spun
cotton yarn are twisted together to produce spun cotton thread.
e.g. dymax (Coats)

Key Characteristics:

- 100% cotton thread have relatively low strength and

elongation compared to those in synthetic thread ,
therefore they need relatively light sewing tension and
high stitch densities.

- Very high amount of shrinkage compared to synthetic thread.

- - During sewing , cotton thread is not damaged at high temperature generated by needle.

- - 100% cotton thread is mercerized (treatment with caustic solution under tension) to
provide greater luster and higher strength.

- Uses: Mainly used in sewing cotton garments that are to be post dyed.

4. Textured Polyester Thread:

- Made from textured continuous polyester filament. (Note- texturing means modification
by applying crimp to the filament) . e.g. Gramax (Coats).

51 | P a g e
Key features:

- Provides high softness and comfort.

- High extensibility and seam strength enhance higher seam security.

Uses: Mainly used in “next to the skin” seams for high softness .e.g. underware, swimwear,
babywear etc.

Also widely used in overlocking and covering stitches for high extensibility and seam security.

5. Polyester Cotton Corespun Thread:

- Made of polyester filament in the core and staple cotton fibre
which wraps polyester filament. Two or three plies of this yarn are
twisted together to make thread. e.g. dual
duty (Coats).

Key features:

- This thread has been developed to improve

the properties cotton and to get the
opportunities of both cotton and polyester
fibre.

- Very low shrinkage, good strength and

cotton core protects poly core from needle
heat and high ironing temperature.

Uses: fine cotton denim shirts , outdoor wear etc.

6. Trilobal Polyester thread:

- Newly developed polyester fibre to improve the dullness of usual
polyester fibre.

-Trilobal poly is a multiple filament, twisted, high-sheen continuous

fiber thread. It has the bright appearance of rayon or silk. Triangular
shaped fibers reflect more light and give an attractive sparkle to
textiles.Uses: embroidery for garment.

TRILOBAL POLYESTER
THREADS

52 | P a g e