16 C

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16
SESSION
Session
9/22/2009 3
16
Session
Nonwoven Types
©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 4
Nonwoven Fabrics 16
Session
Woven and Knitted fabrics, discussed

in last sessions, represent the textile
types most predominantly used.
One of most popular is non woven
fabric.
Nonwoven Fabrics 16
Session
Non woven fabrics are defined as

textile materials made directly from
fibers and held together as a fabric by
adhesives, heat fusion or through
entanglement of fibers.
Nonwoven Fabrics 16
Session
These materials are generally flat,

flexible, porous sheet structures with
high surface areas to weight structures.
The first non wovens were introduced
in 1942
Nonwoven Fabrics 16
Session
There are two general categories of

nonwovens
Durable
Disposable
Durable Nonwoven 16
Session
These materials are not intended to

be thrown away after a single or limited
number of applications.
Rayon, polyester and olefin are the
major fibers used for durable
Durable Nonwoven 16
Session
Examples are
Apparel Interlinings
Carpet Backing
Sunsoil covers for road beds
Disposable Nonwoven 16 Session
These materials are manufactured

with the intension of being thrown away
after a single or limited number of
application.
The major fiber used in disposable
nonwoven is rayon.
Disposable Nonwoven 16 Session
Examples are
Disposable diapers
Headrests
Surgical gowns
Filter
Manufacturing 16
Session
There are three manufacturing

methods used to produce nonwoven
materials
Dry laid
Wet laid
Polymer laid
Dry Laid 16
Session
With the dry laid system, the material

structure is formed by having the fibers
manipulated while in dry state.
This is most used system worldwide.
Wet Laid 16
Session
With the wet laid system, the material

structure is formed by having the fibers
manipulated while in wet state.
This is the least used system
worldwide
Polymer Laid 16
Session
With the polymer laid system, the

material structure is formed by blowing
thermoplastic fibers onto a collection
surface as the fibers are being
extruded.
Needle 16
Session
Punched
Bonded
Web
Spun
Types
Laced
Spun
Bonded
Melt
Blown
16
Session
Fabric Costing
Fabric Costing 16
Session
While making the garment, fabric is

the only major component and it
contributes to almost
60-70% of the total
Cost.
Fabric Costing 16
Session
So it is most
important to
understand the
components of
fabric costing.
Fabric Cost 16
Session
Raw Material Cost

Sizing and Chemicals Cost
Cost of weaving process
Dyeing costs
Finishing cost
Raw Material Cost 16
Session
Type of raw material

The cost of the fibre will depend
largely on its generic type- cotton,
linen, wool, silk, rayon, nylon,
polyester, polyester cotton blend etc,
and also its quality.
Session

The Yarn cost will depend on the
count of the yarn -finer the yarn,
more expensive it will be.
Session

Bright or dull -Bright yarns are
more expensive than dull.
Textured yarns are more
expensive than flat because of the
additional process cost.
Session
GSM of the fabric

Amount of raw material is reflected
by the by the weight or GSM
(grams/sq mt) of the fabric.
As the GSM increases the cost
increases
16
Sizing & Chemicals Cost Session
The count becomes finer the size and

chemical cost increases as a rich
solution, better quality of size and
chemicals is required for better strength
Production cost 16
Session
The weaving cost is affected by the

beam size - if the beam is small in
length, the cost will be more as beam
gaiting and knotting will add to the cost.
Production cost 16
Session
Mill-made or powerloom made

The quality of mill-made fabrics is
better than power loom made fabrics
in terms of yarn quality; therefore the
cost of fabric is higher, it can be as
high as 25%.
Production cost 16
Session
Wastage and shrinkage

Wastage of 2-3% in warping and
weaving and shrinkage of 1-1.5%
from loom to grey folding stage is
included in the weaving cost.
Dyeing Cost 16
Session
Width of the fabric:

If the width of the fabric is doubled,
the cost of the processing is not
doubled. So it is beneficial to go for
wider width fabrics rather than fabrics
with more length.
Dyeing Cost 16
Session
Shade%:
Lighter the shade; lower the cost.
The amount of dye required is less
as well as time required for dyeing is
less.
Dyeing Cost 16
Session
Class of dye and quality:

Some dyes are more expensive
than the other.
E.g., Vat dyes are more expensive
than reactive dyes
Finishing cost 16
Session
Process Cost
Flame Retardant Finish 15 Rs/Meter
Anti Static Finish 5 Rs/Meter
Anti Stain 10 Rs/Meter
Anti Wrinkle 5 Rs/Meter
Shrinkage & Wastage 16 Session
It is important to note that wastage

and shrinkage are integral part of
costing.
Generally a minimum shrinkage of 5
7% is acceptable.

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1

Woven and Knitted fabrics, discussed

Non woven fabrics are defined as

These materials are generally flat,

There are two general categories of

These materials are not intended to

These materials are manufactured

There are three manufacturing

With the dry laid system, the material

With the wet laid system, the material

With the polymer laid system, the

While making the garment, fabric is

Raw Material Cost

Type of raw material

Type of raw material

Type of raw material

GSM of the fabric

The count becomes finer the size and

The weaving cost is affected by the

Mill-made or powerloom made

Wastage and shrinkage

Width of the fabric:

Class of dye and quality:

It is important to note that wastage

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