Travel Times :: 6th Edition (Kathmandu's World Heritage Sites)

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yourtravelcompanion
Kathmandu’s world heritage sites give great reasons for

tourists to linger on and savor old world kathmandu charm.
TSUM VALLEYsagarmatha
national
park
on Travelogue
para-
gliding
on Adventure Intro
bisket
jatra
on Festival Watch
24 70 88
8 | editorial www.nextyatra.com
Editorial
Dear Readers, Also on the World Heritage Site list but from
a different part of the world is the amazing
Fuel shortages, crippling load shedding,
Petra. Paragliding is as close to flying as
traffic jams… why do we love Kathmandu
can be possible - at least for now and after
again? For our cover story this issue,
looking at some amazing aerial pictures,
we decided to go back to the things we
you might like us want to get up and go
still love about the valley. Yes, we left
paraglide! Read on also about Sagarmatha
out the mo: mo places and your favorite
National Park – a natural heritage site.
hangouts – perhaps for a later issue. The
seven World Heritage Sites that we have As spring arrives and we stack away our
covered here are pretty amazing too, for winter wear, it’s time to hit the outdoors
Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd.
Kupondole, Lalitpur, Nepal similar and different reasons. All of these and check out some of the heritage sites on
P.O. Box 24206, Kathmandu, Nepal
CDO Regd No : 63/065/66 spots showcase different kinds of art and your own.
Tel.: +977 1 553 6733 /209 3290
architecture and have different things to
Fax: +977 1 553 6733
E-mail: info@traveltimes-mag.com
Happy Travelling.
URL: www.traveltimes-mag.com
offer while they all share a similar heritage,
our heritage of art and architecture and
editorial team
Chairman Deepak Bhatta culture. As the country goes through The Editorial Team
Managing Director / Editor A. R. Tandukar troubled times, perhaps we need to focus
Associate Editor Shambhu Tandukar Please do send us your valuable comments and suggestions
Creative Head Mahesh Tandukar
on the latter, what makes us similar and not
Director Sales & Marketing Tilak Khatri what small things divide us. at feedback@traveltimes-mag.com
Asst. Marketing Manager vishal j. rana
Copy Editor Utsav Shakya
Inhouse Writer Prita Malla
Content Development Officer gaurav kandel
Photographer Suresh Maharjan
Advisors
A. Das gupta
Sushil Bhatta
Upendra Hirawat
Abhishek Anand
Deepak Jain
Partners
China Southern Airlines
Gorkha Travels
Craft Garden
Dakshinkali Hill Resort
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eticketnepal.com
Color Separation: CTP Nepal Pvt. Ltd

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www.nextyatra.com | 9
TIMES MAR - APR 2010

10 | contents www.nextyatra.com
Contents
Cover Story want to write for
travel times?
Kathmandu’s World Heritage Sites Send us your travel articles or ideas
Kathmandu is the rightful cultural capital of the country with seven of the ten at articles@traveltimes-mag.com
UNESCO World Heritage Sites falling in the valley. Read on to find out what
makes these sites so special.
FOODRINK
Samay Baji
Fondly called the ‘food of the
gods’, Samay Baji is a Newar
gastronomical delight.
66
Travelogue
A journey to Sagarmatha
National Park
Our resident doctor writes about a journey
to the spectacular Sagarmatha National
30
Park, home to some of the highest
mountains on Earth.
24
Global hotels and
Treasure casinos
Petra Dwarika’s Hotel
The Rose Red City Borne out of a noble effort to preserve Newar
is designed to strike architecture, Dwarika’s Hotel deserves all the
wonder into the
hearts of all those that
accolades it has gathered and more.
60
78 entered it.
84
Adventure
Festival Perfect intro
Paragliding
Watch takeaways Need wings to fly away?
bisket jatra Khukuri Paragliding makes it possible!
A beautiful disaster. Made famous by the Gurkhas,
88 find out what makes a Khukuri
a great souvenir. 70
Start traveling....with Travel Times

12 Travel News 74 Holiday Destination 64 Recommended Restaurants
Get with the latest news and events in Nepal A guide to the most happening restaurants
Hongkong
and around the globe. in town.
Small but beautiful, Hongkong is packed
with all types of action.
20 Recreation 56 Health Times 94 Events and Tips
Holi Raft Find out what’s happening around you.
What better way to get wet for Holi than Staying Healthy in Kathmandu
facing some Nepali rapids! Get ready for Kathmandu with this useful
guide on staying safe in the city.


12 Travelnews NATIONAL www.nextyatra.com
“Together for Tourism”

flags NEPAL TOURISM YEAR-NTY 2011
The most anticipated and highly expected various cultural programs demonstrating of NTY 2011 briefed and highlighted the
Tourism campaign of Nepal, Nepal tourism related activities and tools framework of the program that political
Tourism Year-NTY 2011 was officially the NTY 2011 was launched with the commitment was a must for organizing
launched among a large mass of around illumination of the peace torch brought the event in a successful manner.
50,000 from different walks of life from Lumbini by Hon Prime Minister,
ranging from national citizens, national Madhav Kumar Nepal at Tundikhel “With a theme ‘together for tourism’,
and international agencies, political amidst a gala festival along with parades the event will seek every individual’s
parties, government officials, private from six different place of the valley. commitment to making the NTY 2011 a
sector, tourism stakeholders, ethnic Similar gala events are being organized at success,”
communities, army, armed police, police, Biratnagar, Janakpur, Birgunj, Chitwan,
scout members, students and journalists Pokhara, Bhairahawa, and Nepalgunj “It will bring all stakeholders together at a
to express their commitment for the aiming to boost up Nepal’s tourism platform to show their firm commitment
tourism year long event with the theme of industry by bringing in one million that they will contribute to making the
“Together for Tourism” at the premises foreign tourists within the one year event . event a success,” he said while addressing
of Tundikhel in Kathmandu. Led by a gathering during the official launching
a unique Nepali cultural troupe with Yogendra Sakya, National Coordinator of the event.


14 Travelnews NATIONAL www.nextyatra.com
Second International Destination Manang 2010 to be organized

airport to take off ture and unique cultural experience.
The program is set to be formally inaugu-

rated on Baisakh 2nd. Programs like Grand
Metha, Grand Yartung, Badhe Festival,
Tarkya, Tilicho Lake Festival, Tho (Deer
Festival) and Nar and Phu Fam trip have
been planned for the festival. This festival
will hopefully promote the district as a spe-
cial travel destination for both domestic
Nepal government has awarded the con- Destination Manang 2010 campaign is and international visitors.
tract for a detailed feasibility study of a all set to promote tourism and protect its
second international airport at Nijgadh- timeless culture and tradition. The main The festival is being organized by Tour-
Dumarwana of Bara district to Landmark objective of the campaign is to disseminate ism Entrepreneurs’ Association of Manang
Worldwide Company, Korea. information about Manang district to trav- (TEAM) along with a number of other
elers seeking an once-in-a-lifetime adven- supporters.
According to Binay B. Rawal, Landmark’s
Nepal representative, the feasibility study
will start in April and last for 10 months. Fishtail Air acquires new helicopter
The company will invest $3.8 million for AS 350 B3 Helicopter was bought from the
the detailed feasibility study and design South East Asia Eurocopter Company of
feasibility study. With a total investment of Singapore.
US$ 600 million in the first phase and US$
1 billion until the final stage, the project is AS 350 B3 can easily land up to 23000 feet
to be operated under the “build, own, op- and can carry an addition of 1400kg along
erate, transfer” (BOOT) model. with 6 passengers. It can even fly in the
tempestuous weather of the Himalayas.
The proposed new airport will have two This has opened the possibility for the
parallel runways. As per the design feasi- flight up to the base camps of the moun-
bility, the airport will be constructed con- The Fishtail Air has successfully landed tains and even above it. Fishtail Air plans
sidering the future forecast growth of pas- new helicopter at Tribhuvan International to fly the helicopter for Pokhara-Lukla, and
senger traffic. Airport. The new addition to its fleet, the Simikot-Kailash Mansarobar flights.
Global Bank and Yeti Soaltee Crowne Plaza has Prince Charles raises
Airlines for e-ticketing a new GM funds for Sherpa museum
Hotel Soaltee More than £14,000 has been raised through
Crowne Plaza the charity Community Action Nepal to
now has a preserve one of the last remaining tradi-
new General tional Sherpa homes as a museum. Prince
Manager, Charles has been appointed the president
Vini Gupta, of the Sherpa Heritage Trust and Sir Chris
who had been work- Bonington, its patron. This traditional
ing for more two-decades in different hotels home in the centre of Khumjung was built
Global Bank Ltd. (GBL) and Yeti Airlines in the United States, will be working as the in the 16th century when the Sherpa peo-
Domestic Pvt. Ltd. (YADL) have signed an General Manager of Hotel Soaltee Crowne ple entered the country from Tibet.
agreement to launch e-ticketing from the Plaza. Gupta is the successor to Mr. Greesh
month of March. Bindra, who has successfully completed his The Prince told Telegraph Travel: “Trek-
period in office. king in Nepal twice, I was struck by the
Janak Sharma, Deputy General manager breathtaking beauty of the scenery and
of GBL and Vijay Shrestha, Director of Gupta will soon head to the hotel´s head- the charm of the Nepalese people. I fully
YADL signed the agreement during the quarter in Singapore to better understand appreciate the importance of renovating
program. the work cycle of this chain of Hotels. He the Sherpa Heritage House into a living
will be working towards making Soaltee museum so that present and future genera-
This e-ticketing is aimed to facilitate trav-
more attractive for the guests with better tions in the Sherpa community can experi-
elers and minimize the need to visit travel
packages for its clients. He also ensured that ence their rich and remarkable heritage.” A
agencies to buy the ticket. Now general
Soaltee will actively participate in providing fundraising trek led by Sir Chris Bonington
public can easily have access to flights
its hospitality service in Nepal Tourism Year and Pertemba Sherpa to the grand open-
from Kathmandu to Pokhara, Biratnagar,
2011 campaign. ing of the Sherpa Heritage House will take
Bhatrapur, Bhairawa, Janakpur, Dhangadi,
place in late October.
and Nepalgunj with a click.

www.nextyatra.com Travelnews NATIONAL 15
Tallest statue of lord shiva set to

launch on 24th May 2010
whole project and has devoted a
lot for its completion as he smiles
and says that it will be launched
on 24th May which is auspicious
day for the Bhagwan Sthapana as
told by the holy priest to him. Be-
ing attached to Hindu Religion
and a true devotee of Lord Pash-
upatinath Jain planned to initiate
it. The colossal statue of Lord
Shiva is being named as “Kailas-
hnath Mahadev ” which is attired
in leopard skin, serpent around
Gazing at the magnificent 108 ft his neck carrying a trident in one
(approximately 32.9188 m) statue hand and pellet drum in another.
of Lord Shiva at Shanga, Bhak- Maturam Verma, who hails from
tapur, artisan and sculptor Mat- Rajasthan has been involved for
uram Verma and the structural this project along with his five as-
Er. Manohar Raj Bhandari along sistants from India and with many
with their team’s seven years of nepali workers from past seven
sweat and toil has come to frui- years. Hilltake Health & Home,
tion. Kamal Jain, Chairman of adjacent to the statue makes one
Hilltake Industries Private Lim- forget the din and bustle of urban
ited, is the initiator behind this mundanity.
Air arrivals up 33 percent in February

for Nepal, bounced
back with a remark-
able growth of 24.25
percent. The Eu-
ropean segment was up 20.6 percent and the news in brief
number of visitors from the US soared to 53.2
percent.
• Homosexual Marriage at the Everest Base
Camp
This is the ninth consecutive month that Nepal Homosexual marriage is being legalized in May this
has witnessed a growth in international tourist year and Gay marriage at the Everest base camp has
Tourist arrivals by air in February heaved a mas- arrivals, confirming improved prospects for Ne- been planned. Nepal is observing the “Nepal Tourism
sive 33 percent to 33,492 persons compared to pal in 2010 with rising business and consumer Year 2011” and hopes welcoming more gay visitors.
the same period last year. Arrivals from South confidence. A total of 33,441 foreign tourists de- • Buddha’s epic Sugata Saurabha launched
Asia were up 12.1 percent according to the fig- parted from TIA in February. The number of in English
ures released by Tribhuvan International Air- Nepali arrivals stood at 49,288 while departures Chittadhar Hridaya, renowned Newari poet’s, 400-
pages epic Sugata Suarabha has been translated in
port (TIA). China, one of the largest markets numbered 54,564 during the same period. English and published by Oxford University Press, US
which will help readers to know more about Buddha
in detail.
100th International Women’s Day marked in Nepal • Dhulikhel Mahotsav 2066 Observed
On the occasion of Harisiddhi Jatra, organized every
WEDC, FWEAN and in collaboration of other 12 years, Dhulikhel Mahotsav was observed with
large gala events and the inauguration of Arniko’s
organizations, International SME’s Business
statue.
Meet was organized from 8-10thMarch to flour-
ish trade and tourism among South eastern • Los Angeles gets NTY Hoarding Board
Dr. Shankar Sharma, Ambassador to Nepal at US in-
Asian countries. Kathmandu Joint Declaration augurated the first hoarding board of the NTY 2011 on
and skill exchange workshops were also orga- 8th March near LA 710 Highway which was sponsored
nized among the participating nations during by tourism entrepreneur Basudev Ghimire.
the event. Dr. Kiran Bedi, recipient of Ramon • Sankhu Mahotsav to be marked on 2nd - 4th
Magsaysay Award gave a keynote speech and April
also elaborated on the issues of Women while Along with Goddess Vajrayogini’s festival , a unique
With the theme “Equal rights, Equal Opportu- she also inaugurated the SCWEC showroom at and not to be missed religious and cultural event, the
Sankhu Mahotsav at Sankhu is being inaugurated
nities: Progress for all”, FTG Nepal, FNCCI- Pulchowk managed by FTG Nepal.
with various events which will last for three days from
2nd to 4th of April.
To enlist your news send us the details at news@traveltimes-mag.com

16 Travelnews interNATIONAL www.nextyatra.com
India, Nepal sign for Continental Airlines launches mobile boarding

South Asian connectivity passes
India has taken initiative to ensure con- Mobile boarding passes has a two-dimensional
nectivity with Nepal after the recent agree- bar code along with passenger and flight in-
ment with Bangladesh. formation, which scanners validate. The tech-
nology prevents manipulation or duplication
A new air services agreement was signed
of the boarding passes.
between the two countries during the visit
of the President of Nepal, Dr Ram Baran Continental was the first carrier to offer paper-
Yadav to India. A Memorandum of Under- less boarding passes in the U.S. in a pilot pro-
standing was also signed for railway infra- Continental Airlines has announced the ex- gram with the Transportation Security Admin-
structure development at five border points pansion of its mobile boarding pass service istration that began in December 2007. The
along Nepal-India border along with MoU to London’s Heathrow Airport. This service airline currently offers mobile boarding passes
for development of Nepal Bharat Maitri allows customers to receive boarding passes at 42 airports, including its hubs in New York,
Polytechnic at Hetauda and for establish- electronically on their cell phones or PDAs Houston and Cleveland.
ment of Nepal Bharat Maitri Sabha Griha and eliminates the need for paper boarding
in Birgunj. passes.
New Ice Hotel at Balea Lac, romania Qatar Airways Fleet Size
Although some might be Rises to 80 Aircraft
skeptical, there are thou-
sands of snow-fans who wish
to spice up their ski holiday
with a bit of the bizarre and
can’t wait to sleep in a very
posh igloo for a night or two.
The Balea Lac Hotel in Ro-

mania features ice; walls,
decorations, furniture, even
glasses are made of ice. Al-
Qatar Airways celebrated another mile-
though a newbie on the
stone in its remarkable short history by
scene it proudly presents
announcing its fleet size has grown to 80
its small yet charming ice aircraft – double the size of five years ago.
Tourists seem to love the several ice hotels
church, first of its kind, where occasional The airline has inducted its 15th Boeing
that have appeared over the past few years in
masses and more importantly eccentric wed- 777 into the fleet and maintains a delivery
Japan, Canada, and Sweden. A new addition
dings take place. schedule of more than one new aircraft a
to this icy series is the Ice Hotel at Balea Lac
in Romania. month, retaining its status as one of the
world’s fastest growing airlines.
Celebration of Chinese lantern Festival at Radisson These will serve long haul routes from the
airline’s operational hub of Doha, capital
new year in its traditional cycle with the of the State of Qatar. Qatar Airways is con-
Famous Lantern Festival. On the 15th lu- tinuing its expansion strategy with vigor
nar day of the year, the Chinese worship as CEO of Qatar Airways, Akbar Al Baker
the Heaven Officer of Taoism and pray said “As our fleet increases, we are able to
for luck. To mark the festival the hall was raise capacity on existing services and in-
decorated aptly with light lanterns. The troduce new routes which is continuing as
event also coincided with the Nepali Holi planned despite the industry facing chal-
festival making the celebration even more lenges amid the current global economic
festive and joyful. climate” .
The Chinese lantern festival 2010 was cel-
ebrated with much anticipation in Hotel China Eastern Airlines Co. Ltd (CEA) is Qatar Airways currently operates a modern
Radisson by the China Eastern Airlines. one of the biggest airlines of China. Based fleet of 80 aircraft to 86 diverse business
The Chinese ambassador to Nepal Mr. in Shanghai, CEA has 9 domestic branch- and leisure destinations across Europe,
Zheng Xianglin and various people from es and also is the controlling shareholder Middle East, Africa, Asia Pacific, South
travel agencies and media were present on of China Cargo Airlines, China Eastern Ji- Asia and North America. Here in Nepal, it
the occasion. On February 28th the Chi- angsu Airlines Co., Ltd and China Eastern has been operating 2 flights a day and will
nese Zodiac celebrates the start of a brand Wuhan Airlines Co. Ltd. add its 3rd flight from 28th of March.

www.nextyatra.com 17
TIMES 09

18 Travelnews interNATIONAL www.nextyatra.com
Asian countries unite for Medical Tourism Facebook Makes Travel

to China Easier
IMWell Summit International Summit on Medical Travel, Group tours are popu-
International Summit on Medical
Travel, Wellness & Retirement Wellness and Retirement (IMWell Sum- lar on Mainland China
mit) on October 12-15, 2010. but to decide on the best
With the Philippines spearheading the tour company is the difficult part. The China
initiative for Asia to be a regional hub for The IMWell Summit is the first of its kind Guide, a Beijing-based travel company, is of-
health, wellness and retirement, represen- to present the global state of healthcare, fering unique group tours for 2010 and has
tatives of different Asian countries includ- explore current and future opportunities came up with novel ideas to brand itself as one
ing India, Thailand, Malaysia, Korea, Tai- in medical tourism, and map out a strategy of the best company among the visitors.
wan and Singapore are set to gather in the for the growth of the entire industry.
In the homepage guest will be acquainted
about China Guide’s unique service style.
Asia Leads Travel Industry’s Recovery; Promising Start To 2010 The most useful tool for trip planners how-
ever, is the company’s Facebook group where
Year 2010 is off Emerging markets - one of the green shoots clients have posted their personal experiences
to a good start seen during the economic crisis - will con- and photos of The China Guide’s tours, http://
www.TheChinaGuide.com/facebook
for Asia’s travel tinue to drive travel bookings up with In-
industry fol- doChina and Central Asia as key growth
Facebook, the fast growing networking site is
lowing its lead regions. Several other markets such as a great reference tool that potential trip plan-
in the global Nepal, Bangladesh and South Korea had ners can use and trust. The China Guide’s
travel market’s also contributed to Abacus’ better-than- Facebook group is open for all guests to post
recovery. Abacus International, a veteran expected business results. Asia is expected feedback, comments, trip highlights or ask
of the travel industry, revealed that emerg- to enjoy 5.7% GDP growth in 2010, with questions about future travel. The group also
ing markets and new business practices emerging markets leading the rest of the has a large selection of photos that have been
will underpin growth and set the underly- world out of the downturn. uploaded by past clients, highlighting their
ing trends for the year ahead. tour in China.
Singapore Targets ITB Berlin now on

around 12.5 Million Your Mobile
Visitor in 2010 ITB Berlin
is offering
its visitors
a trade fair
guide for
mobile and
smart-phone
users for the
second year.
The Singapore Tourism Board
is targeting 11.5 – 12.5 million The ITB
visitor arrivals for 2010. Mobile Guide lets its users
navigate their way more
2010 will see the much easily around the Exhibition
anticipated opening of World Grounds. Besides a map of the
Sentosa and Marina Bay grounds, information includes
Sands resorts. There will be the program of the ITB
commencement of new events Convention, a list of events
such as the Asia Fashion along with press conferences,
Exchange, the Youth Olympic presentations, receptions,
Games and Live! Singapore and a function for looking up
while its signature events exhibitors.
such as the Singtel Singapore
Formula One Grand Prix, This clever pocket-sized trade
F1 Rocks and Singapore fair companion can be easily
International Water Week downloaded at http://www.itb-
will continue. Collectively, berlin.de/mobil via an internet
they will enhance Singapore’s landline and itb-berlin.mobi
stature as a vibrant global city via a mobile phone / smart-
with a distinctive lifestyle that phone browser or texting.
attracts visitors.


20 | recreation www.nextyatra.com
Holi Raft
A recreational initiation of Yeti Travels
Holi - the festival of colors! The day that people associate

the beginning of summer with and ring it in they do
by playing with water and smearing each others’ faces
with colorful powder.
Almost a battle of sorts, a battle with unfair advantage to the offensive party and
that leaves not blood in its trails but pollution and wet and harassed bodies. No
wonder many people wish they were far away from the madding ground, so to
speak, where they can celebrate with loved ones amid laughter in the true spirit
of Holi. Yeti Travel and Tours, a creative company that always has innovative and
fun ideas to promote Nepal’s natural wonders to the masses, came up with the
perfect solution
– Holi RAFT.
Text by Yesha Malla

www.nextyatra.com Holi raft | 21
bathtub. The best time to raft, of course is the

monsoons.
As other rafts gained up on us, in celebration
of Holi, vigorous water fights ensued, and
soon we were splashing water at each other
with our paddles and screaming “Happy Holi!”
Our raft had a bucket, the more the easier to
retaliate their offences, complete with battle
cries. We were completely drenched in minutes.
We paddled further downstream, keeping an
ear out for more instructions from the guide,
pushing the waters back and forth against the
current and propelling the raft onwards. We
passed scenic hills that towered over us and
children playing at the shore. More children
waited on overheard bridges, ready to aim
colored balloons at our rafts. We paddled faster.
The rapids. The thrill of the whole rafting
experience. As water swirled around us,
splashing ferociously and drenching our drying
bodies yet again, our hearts beat faster and we
let out delighted shouts. The raft swayed and
bobbed dangerously on the water, prompting
us to scream louder, until our guide resignedly
asked us to keep it down or we wouldn’t be
able to hear his instructions. There were five
to six rapids during our trip with names such
as “Upset Ladies’ Delight”, “Surprise”, “Upset”
or “Monsoon”, and they were the eagerly
anticipated highlights of the entire trip.
We were genuinely sad when our guide told
us we had reached the end of the rafting
expedition. More rafting had been planned
but because the trip had started late, the
sun had gone down and it was too windy to
T
hink about it. Instead of being reluctantly he warned us. We could drown, or injure risk any more rafting. As we staggered to the
drenched with water from suspicious ourselves against the craggy rocks if we weren’t shore, towards the hot dal bhat tarkari and a
origins, you get to play Holi while rafting, careful. He went on to list out basic safety steaming mug of Mustang Coffee – more rum
without artificial colors and with water that procedures - make sure the life jackets are a than coffee - waiting for us to help us warm up,
comes “trickling down from the majestic tight yet comfortable fit. Make sure you row I’m sure I wasn’t the only one very tired but still
Himalayas”. And with the present water as a team, following the guide’s instructions very exhilarated about having actually rafted
shortage in homes, the event also brings to to paddle forward or back. The proper way down the Trisuli River. And as we bundled up
your disposal an unlimited supply of water! to sit on the raft is on the edge of the raft, on our bus in the evening to return home after
Besides, people who don’t like itchy colors or with feet tucked inside the boat. If you fall a brief stay at the gorgeous Riverside Resort,
being hit by water-filled balloons thrown in the off, don’t panic, but swim towards the boat the feeling of camaraderie and pleasure,
name of fun can rejoice at the opportunity to to be pulled up and if you don’t know how of adventure and triumph at our shared
play Holi au natural. to swim, you can trust the life jackets. A bit adventure lingered in the air…
intimidated, especially once we were asked to
With this refreshing concept dubbed the “Holi
sign waiver forms indicating understanding DOOR PRIZES SPONSORS:
Boat”, the event Yeti Travel & Tours offered was
and acceptance of potential serious risks, • BUDDHA AIR
obviously popular because twenty or so people
we clambered onto the rafts. And as the (complimentary mountain flight for 1)
showed up early in the fine morning of Holi.
waters gently lapped around us, most of our
We hit the road at eight in the morning, once • FISTAIL LODGE, POKHARA
trepidation washed away and got replaced with
all of my future rafting mates had trickled in (overnight for two with bb)
thrill and excitement for the adventure.
and settled down in our swanky tourist bus • BAKERY CAFÉ
–with air conditioning – for a three hour long “Forward all!” our guide shouted, and (meal voucher)
drive to CHARAUDI. We were an eclectic bunch. we started paddling in earnest, trying to
• ISLAND JUNGLE RESORT
Even career-wise, rafting had brought together synchronize our movements. The first few
(over night for 2)
people from different fields: a criminal minutes were spent concentrating hard
psychologist, a journalist, a geohydrologist, on the paddling movements, to the guide • RADISSON
even a self termed “peace specialist”. Having maneuvering the boat, but soon we had gained (meal voucher)
dressed befitting rafting purposes – anything rhythm and started to enjoy the ride. Rafting on • PRANA SPA
that dries off quickly, swimsuits, shorts, tees, we the Trishuli River is great for beginners, graded (spa for 2)
finally got ready for the main reason we had 3 in water difficulty, based on the Colorado
The “Holi Raft” is just one of the exciting
come here for - an adventure of a lifetime. We River scale of 1-10, with 1 being the easiest events Yeti Travel and Tours organizes
donned lifejackets and helmets and gathered and 10 the most difficult and quite technical. each month. Future plans include a Golf
to listen to instructions from the rafting guide. Rafting in February - dry season - meant that it challenge and a roping competition too.
was going to be even calmer. As a fellow rafter
Rafting is called an extreme sport for a reason,
quipped, level 3 was like sailing on a huge

22 newintown www.nextyatra.com
Sherpa
Adventure gear
Inspired by
the many
unsung Sherpa
heroes of
Everest, Sherpa
Adventure Gear
aims to create
dependable
and
outstanding
outdoor
clothing.
Think mountaineering and you feedback. Sometimes the product Until recently, outdoorsy wom-
think ‘thrilling’, dangerous and needs to go through numerous ex- en had to put up with wearing
then inevitably, ‘Sherpas’. Hardy peditions before being launched bulky, oversized men’s clothing
and experienced veterans of the in the market. All of the products to get the technical functionality
highest altitudes, Sherpas are are designed and developed with they craved but thankfully, every
renowned in the international the help of Sherpa athletes who piece of Sherpa Adventure Gear
climbing and mountaineering are paid a royalty based on sales. women’s wear is made with the
community. It has been specu- In a positive note, Sherpa Adven- same fabrics and features as men’s
lated that a part of the Sherpas’ ture Gear has partnered with Al- clothing, but designed to fit a
“Each season we grow. climbing ability is the result of pine Ascents to donate up to $.50 woman’s body. Apart from men
But at the core we a genetic adaptation to living in for every item sold to The Sherpa and women’s wear, Sherpa also
will always be a small high altitudes. The link between Education Fund in the Khumbu has a wide range of bags, hats and
company with a simple Sherpas and mountain climbing region. sleeping bags. 90% of the produc-
has become so ubiquitous that it is tion is done in Kathmandu. All
vision of doing business Whether you’re trekking around
perfectly apt to name an outdoor of their products have a life time
in the inimitable way of adventure gear enterprise after Europe, prepping to climb Ever- warranty. A new outlet of Sherpa
the Sherpas; one step these heroes of mountaineering. est, or just heading out for a hike Adventure Gear is soon to open in
at a time, helping each close to home, the complete March at Namche.
other on the climb up, Inspired by the many unsung line of base layers, travel cloth-
and never losing sight of Sherpa heroes of Everest, Sherpa ing, shells and winter-worthy Much like having your very own
the destination,” Adventure Gear aims to create insulation will literally have you Sherpa guide, you can count on
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-Tsedo Sherpa, door clothing. With their unique a Sherpa to survive in extreme wherever your adventures take
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of life. Although a small com- Gear uses the latest technologies
pany, they strongly believe in like intelligent moisture man- For more details:
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products, especially expedition odor-repellent bamboo charcoal,
the gear. The gear is tested in the and eco-friendly itch-free merino www.sherpaadventuregear.com
rugged condition of the Himala- wool to make clothing you’ll be
yas and then altered according to comfortable in for days on end.


24 | TRAVELOGUE www.nextyatra.com
Sagarmatha
national park Text by Dr. Ravi Shankar
Photos by Dr. Ravi Shankar, Dr. Ashutosh Bodhe & Dr. Bimantha Perera

www.nextyatra.com TRAVELOGUE | 25
The spectacular and tricky

Lukla airport
ering in a vain attempt to gener-

Our resident ate heat. The Sri Lankans in our
group unfurled their flag and had
doctor writes a small ceremony to celebrate hav-
about a ing reached so far. The summit of
Kala Pathar loomed challengingly
journey to the above us. We retreated back to the
spectacular safety and warmth of our lodge. On
a later visit, I made it to the summit
Sagarmatha of Kala Pathar (5545 m) the high-
National Park, My friends spent a freezing night The mercury dipped below minus est I have ever been, accompanied
huddled together in their tents 20°C at night and the photogra- by my good friend, Dr. Anup on a
home to some at the foot of Kala Pathar (Black phers passed a frigid night, burning balmy winter afternoon.
of the highest Rock), a famous view point for Mt. camphor in an attempt to beat the
We were a large group of fourteen
Everest in the Sagarmatha Nation- cold. Overcome by the cold they
mountains on al Park of Eastern Nepal. They had dozed off and by the time they got people with members from Nepal,
India and Sri Lanka. Our flight to
Earth. set out from Gorak Shep at about up, the moon was already high up
Lukla aboard a Yeti Airlines Twin
four in the evening. The number in the sky. The magical moment
of people volunteering to spend had passed. Dr. Bodhe later told Otter had been repeatedly delayed
a night with flimsy protection in me that he bitterly regretted miss- and it was only after two in the af-
such arctic conditions steadily de- ing an opportunity of a lifetime. ternoon when we finally landed.
clined as the evening progressed. The spirit was willing but the body Lukla airport is risky to land on
At the end only five brave souls set was weak! with a very short runway. It’s safe to
out led by my friend and an intrep- say that your life is literally in the
id traveler - Dr. Bodhe. They were Early the next morning, at around hands of your pilot! The airport
planning to capture the full moon four, we set off to capture the sun- was created by Sir Edmund Hil-
rising above Mt. Everest. The black rise on Everest from atop Kala lary who also played an important
rock glistening in the silver moon- Pathar. The black rock had a thin role in convincing the Nepalese
light with the snow giants dozing coating of ice and the temperature government to establish the Sagar-
peacefully in the night’s stillness was fifteen below zero. I soon be- matha National park and the gov-
promised to be a sight to be trea- gan losing all sensation in my toes ernment of New Zealand to fund
sured for the rest of one’s life. and fingers. My body started shiv- and support it.
sagarmatha national park
Sagarmatha National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage site which contains some of the highest
mountains on earth. In addition to Everest (8848 m) it also encompasses Lhotse (8516 m) and Cho
Oyu (8188 m). The park was created in 1976 and was designated a natural world heritage site
in 1979. Barren land above 5000m forms 69% of the park. In the lower forested zone, one can
find flora such as birch, juniper, blue pines, firs, bamboo and rhododendron. Only dwarf shrubs
are found above this zone. As the altitude increases further, plant life is restricted to lichens and
mosses At least 118 species of birds, including the Himalayan Monal, blood pheasant and yellow-
Location: Solu-Khumbu District of the billed choughs are found. The park is also home to a number of rare animal species including the
Sagarmatha Zone musk deer, wild yak, snow leopard, Himalayan black bear and red panda.
Feature: UNESCO World Heritage Site (Listed In
Year 1979 )
Area: 1,148 sq. km. The area is dominated by the Sherpa people (people of the east) who migrated to this region from
Lowest point of 2,845 m (9,335 ft) at Jorsalle to eastern Tibet over 400 years ago. Sherpa people are predominantly Buddhists and are world
8,850 m (29,035 ft) at the summit of Everest. famous as having much expertise in mountaineering.

26 | travelogue www.nextyatra.com
Spectacular Namche bazaar Tempting goodies on display at a bakery in Namche
Shortly after landing and after a set out it was after nine. We had an our acclimatization day hike. We giants like Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse,
tasty lunch at the Sunny Garden early lunch at Monjo, the entrance planned to climb up to the airstrip Ama Dablam was a delightful ex-
Lodge, we arranged porters and to the park and finally started at Syangboche (3900 m), visit the perience. Carried away with the
slowly set off. We were planning to climbing again. Halfway through three star-rated Everest View Hotel views, it became cloudy and cold
spend the night at Phakding, (2600 the climb we had our first glimpse and return. The boche in Syang- by the time we returned.
m) a pleasant spot on the banks of of Everest and the Lhotse-Nuptse boche means ‘a flat land seen from
the Dudh Koshi (Milk River). The ridge. Everest was clouded over. a hilltop’. There are a number of Our next day’s halt was the ham-
initial part of the trek was along the The sun hid behind a cloud bank boches in the Everest region as let of Deboche below Tengbo-
Dudh Koshi valley. The going was and the weather became distinctly people generally settled where ara- che. From there we set off to the
hard, the hour late and we even- chilly. By the time we reached the ble land was available. The airstrip settlement of Dingboche. The
tually settled for the night at the outskirts of Namche it was after constructed to ferry high paying landscape was changing slowly
Lama Lodge in the large village three. The town was teeming with tourists to the luxury Everest hotel and was becoming increasingly
of Ghat. We were tired and after trekkers and rooms were scarce. was out of use during our visit. At rocky and barren. It was T-shirt
a dinner of dal-bhat-tarkari (lentil After repeated disappointments, present Tara Air, a subsidiary of weather under the harsh sun even
soup-rice-vegetables) with sumptu- we got lucky at the Ama Dablam Yeti Air conducts regular flights with a stiff wind beginning to blow
ous and fresh green vegetables, we lodge. to Syangboche. Tea at the Everest our way. Many tourists prefer to
dozed off easily. view in the company of Himalayan stay in Dingboche as it gets more
The lodge is in the center of Nam-
The next day was to be a long and che, a collection of lodges and
tiring one as we were climbing houses set in a hemispherical val- Tea at the Everest view in the
to Namche Bazaar (3400 m), the ley. The next morning there were company of Himalayan giants
unofficial capital of Sherpa land. superb views of Kwangde which
Our plans to start early the next turned golden in the warm glow of like Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse,
morning were foiled by a little the rising sun. After breakfast and Ama Dablam was a delightful
over-enthusiastic photography by the by now usual round of pho-
my friend Bodhe. By the time we tography by Bodhe, we set off on
experience.
Nuptse, Everest, the Nuptse-Lhotse wall and Lhotse Sunrise on Ama Dablam

www.nextyatra.com TRAVELOGUE | 27
1. Trekkers on the way to Dughla

2. Mountain panorama
3. The lodges of Chukung
4. Mt. Everest from Kala Pathar
1 2
3 4
afternoon sun and is thus warmer fully decorated and the dining area a few snowflakes started drifting lodge at Gorak Shep was surpris-
than Pheriche. Dingboche was was warm and cozy. Nuru has down. Our Sri Lankan friends were ingly comfortable for such a high
our second acclimatization halt. I also recently built a luxury lodge elated. They had never seen snow altitude. Our staple was fast be-
was having a slight headache and at Pheriche. The place is damp before and started dancing in the coming Shakpa (Sherpa Stew) a
was worried about altitude sickness and cold, yet strangely beautiful. snow storm. The ground was soon thick and nourishing soup made of
having heard and read so much It also has the Himalayan Rescue blanketed in thick white snow. vegetables, potato, chunks of meat
about it. The nexy day, we set off Association (HRA) aid post. We and whatever else was available!
on a hike to Chukung along the were given a tour the next day by The lodges were getting increas-
Imja Khola valley. Chukung (4734 a Welsh volunteer doctor. I would ingly crowded and we had to reach Next morning after climbing Kala
m) is a small collection of lodges meet him again two years later early to be assured of a place to Pathar (only some of us were up to
among glacial debris. Upon reach- while doing a research project. sleep. Next morning we decided it) and enjoying Everest up close
ing there, we had a Sherpa delicacy to split the group into two. My we started back. We flew back
- Rigi Kur (thick potato pancakes) From Pheriche, it is a four hour student Vishal and I would race from Lukla and were soon among
and enjoyed magnificent views of trek to Dughla. We stayed at a ahead to try and book a lodge the hustle and bustle of traffic in
Ama Dablam. This photogenic small lodge run by Tashi Tsering, at Gorak Shep (5100 m). Bodhe Kathmandu. After so many days
mountain like Machapuchhre, the first Sherpa to summit Everest would concentrate on his pho- of peace and quiet, it took quite
which lies to the north of Pokhara twice with two different expedi- tography and lead the rest up. some time to adapt. Dr. Bodhe
valley shows different perspectives tions on two consecutive days. In We started climbing the terminal was all for going straight away on
from different locations. the Khumbu region, there are peo- moraine of the Khumbu glacier another trek and leave civilization
ple who have summited Everest soon. En route were two distinctly as we know it far, far behind! I was
Our stay for the night was arranged so frequently that it starts to sound differently monuments – one was left thinking if in the race for more
at Pheriche’s Himalayan Hotel like they’re walking to the market. a monument to climbers who had material possessions and wealth we
owned by Nuru Sherpa. Over my When the weather turned bad that lost their lives on Everest and the had somehow lost our very soul.
many visits to the Khumbu region, afternoon, I was huddled under a other a sculpture commemorating
Nuru had become a good friend. quilt trying vainly to think of warm successful climbs atop Everest just
The rooms at his hotel were taste- beaches and the tropical sun. Soon in front of the HRA aid post. The

28 | www.nextyatra.com


30 | COVERSTORY www.nextyatra.com
Kathmandu is the rightful cultural capital of the country with

seven of the ten UNESCO World Heritage Sites falling in the
valley. Read on to find out what makes these sites so special.
Text by Utsav Shakya

Photos by Suresh Maharjan (Travel Times) & Rocky Prajapati

O
f all the words that have been that stand as testament to the rich art and
used to describe Kathmandu, the architectural scene of those days. Some of
word ‘boring’ will never make it these have been preserved well while oth-
to the list. The place is just so happening. ers have fared badly with time. Tourism
Politically, as the country goes through wise, Kathmandu sees increasing numbers
the most volatile time in its history, Kath- of visitorss each year. Most come for the
mandu looks on, witness to the change. amazing trekking trips that Nepal offers.
Culturally, like all great cities around the Others don’t even travel outside Kathman-
world, Kathmandu too grows and changes du, reveling in the city’s sights and sounds.
and moves slowly away from what it used Kathmandu ends up as a rather unfair
to be. A concrete invasion is all too obvi- representation of the entire country for a
ous in the ‘town of temples’. Kathmandu lot of these tourists. But while the city’s
Valley - the melting pot of all major cul- crammed hoarding boards and unbeliev-
tures in Nepal - went through many ruling able traffic jams hardly showcase Nepal
dynasties and the whims and fancies of its in the best light, there are several reasons
many kings. As a result of this, today there people fall in love with Kathmandu.
are innumerable monuments and temples

TIMES mar - apr 2010
32 | CoverStory www.nextyatra.com
According to mythology, Kathmandu UNESCO’s announcement of Kathman- Sadly, due to negligence on the part
Valley was said to have been a huge lake du as a collective World Heritage Site with of those concerned to keep up with
that was drained by Bodhisatva Manjush- seven noted sub-sites has played a huge UNSECO standards of preservation, Ne-
ri. The land was very fertile and people role in the preservation and promotion of pal was taken off the UNSESCO heritage
moved here for its cultivable land. Nepal these places. The country joined UNES- site list once. Now that it’s listed again with
was then divided into many small coun- CO on May 1, 1953. many other new spots in and outside the
tries which were ruled by separate kings. valley en route to making it to the list, the
Kathmandu was ruled over time by a string For a small city like tourism industry should make hay while
of small and large dynasties, all of which the sun shines. Travel Times takes a look
seemed to have one thing in common –
Kathmandu to have seven at these seven marvels of the valley and
their passion for art and architecture and heritage sites is quite a boon. tries to understand what is it that qualifies
a religious bent. Perhaps with the need to It gives Kathmandu a very them to be called World Heritage Sites.
satiate their burgeoning egos, these rulers The Kathmandu Valley, inscribed on the
tried outdoing their predecessors with the
unique advantage over other World Heritage List in 1979, is the object
many temples and monuments that we see cities in the region. The of a vast safeguarding endeavor. At the
spread out over Kathmandu Valley. With listing itself adds a whole new crossroads of the great civilizations of Asia,
the annexation of the smaller countries the site harbors some 130 Hindu and Bud-
dimension to the number of
into one Nepal, Kathmandu was chosen as dhist monuments exemplifying Nepalese
the capital of the country and was divided tourists interested in visiting art at its peak.
into three cities - Kathmandu, Bhaktapur the country.
and Lalitpur.
Religious monuments such as the Swoy- budhanilkantha
ambhunath stupa or the Pashupatinath

temple represent an important pillar of sundarijal
gokarna
Nepali society - religion. Others such as balaju
bajra yogini
the three Durbar Squares of the valley’s

bouddhanath
three cities and their awe inspiring design swayambhunath
Changu narayan
pashupatinath
and sheer beauty, are testament to the cul- kathmandu
durbar square
tural capital that Kathmandu is. The amaz- balambu airport
ing architecture combined with their rich kirtipur thimi

patan durbar
history makes them unique features, defi- square
chobar BHaktapur durbar square
nitely worth the adulation they get from
art, history and architecture enthusiasts. khokana
But we took it all for granted and let time lubhu surya binayak
and nature do its worst to many of these harisiddhi

bungamati
important structures.

www.nextyatra.com CoverStory - Changu narayan | 33
Changu Narayan
Quick Facts
Location : 22 km from
Kathmandu
With structures that date as far back as the 4th century, Importance : Oldest
temple in Kathmandu
Changu Narayan is perhaps the best kept secret/
valley
Built in : 4th century A.D
.
treasure trove of ancient artwork that combines tales Devoted to : Hindu
Lord Shiva
from Hindu epics to Nepal’s former royalties. Major Attraction : Vishnu
ten arms
image with ten heads and

34 | CoverStory - Changu narayan www.nextyatra.com
1 2
The double- The beautiful and historic temple of Changu

Narayan stands on a hilltop at the eastern end of
who transformed into a giant capable of crossing
the universe in three steps during his defeat of king
roofed temple the valley, about 6 km north of Bhaktapur and Bali. To the side of these images is a small black slab
is dedicated to 22km from Kathmandu. It dates back to 1702, when showing a 10-headed and 10-armed Vishnu, with
it was rebuilt after a fire. Its origins however go Ananta reclining on a serpent below. The scenes
Vishnu in his back to the 4th century with many stone sculptures are divided into three sections - the underworld,
incarnation as in the premises dating to the Lichhavi period (4th the mortal world and the heavens. The beautifully
Narayan and to 9th centuries). Despite the temple’s beauty, easy
access from Bhaktapur and the proximity of some
carved image is around 1500 years old.
is exceptionally fine walks nearby, it attracts relatively few visitors. In the northwestern corner there is a 7th-century
beautiful, with
The one street of Changu village leads up from the
intricate roof car park past a central pilgrim shelter, water tank
struts depicting and Ganesha shrine, before ascending past thang-
multi-armed ka and wooden mask shops to the temple entrance.
The double-roofed temple is dedicated to Vishnu
Tantric deities. in his incarnation as Narayan and is exceptionally
beautiful, with intricate roof struts depicting multi-
armed Tantric deities. It is fronted on the west side
by a kneeling figure of Garuda said to date to the
1. An idol of a lion, which is 5th century. The man-bird mount of Vishnu has
said to be the protector a snake around his neck and kneels with hands
of bad spirits entering the in the Namaste position facing the temple. Stone
temple
lions guard the wonderfully gilded door, which is
2. Aerial view of Changu flanked by equally detailed gilded windows. Two
Narayan pillars at the front corners carry a conch and disc,
(Photo Courtesy: Fishtail Air - FA
operates heli-tours on Heritage the traditional symbols of Vishnu. Non-Hindus are
Sites)
not allowed inside the temple itself, which is nor-
3. A 5th century idol of mally shut and open only for special occasions.
Garuda in front of the
west side of temple
dated. The temple’s true gems are the wonderful, much
older sculptures that dot the courtyard. In the south-
west corner are several notable images, including
one of Vishnu as Narsingha, his man-lion incarna-
tion, disemboweling a demon. Another one shows
him as Vikrantha-Vamana, the six-armed dwarf

www.nextyatra.com CoverStory - Changu narayan | 35
image of Vishnu astride the Garuda. In front of the

Garuda figure that faces the front of the temple is the
oldest stone inscription in the valley, dating from 464
AD. The inscription is in Sanskrit and describes how
the king persuaded his mother not to commit sati
(ritual suicide) after his father’s death. Also interest-
ing are the statues of King Bhupatindra Malla and
his queen, kneeling in a gilded cage in front of the
Superb
temple. Also worth noticing is the use of triangular architecture
bricks in the centre of the courtyard while out to- from the
wards the edges are older, rounded-corner bricks.
5th Century
in Changu
Narayan
which says
volumes about
the impressive
art scene of
those days.
What to do:
The sculptures are one
of a kind
here, most dating bac
k hundreds
of years. After explori
ng the area,
enjoy a short nature wal
k in the
area and visit some tra
ditional
villages along the way
.

36 | CoverStory - Swoyambhunath www.nextyatra.com
Swoyambhunath
Quick Facts
du
m Central Kathman
Location : 3 km fro
y A.D.
Built in : 5th centur
The very reason for the existence of the valley, Devoted to :
Lor
36
d
5
Bu
ste
dd
ps
ha
to reach the Stupa,
The
Major Attractions : i
Swoyambhu stands tall today as one of the e of Pe ace , Ha rat
Stupa, Palac
Temple
most popular Buddhist places of worship in the Believed to be self-c
reated, hence name
d Swoyambhu
country.
Swoyambhunath sits atop a wooded hill, with more ry Swoyambhu Purana, tells of a miraculous lotus,
monkeys than people and more people than hous- planted by a past Buddha, which blossomed from
es. It is arguably the most ancient and enigmatic of the lake that once covered Kathmandu valley. The
all the holy shrines in Kathmandu valley. Its lofty lotus mysteriously radiated a brilliant light, and the
white dome and glittering golden spire are visible name of the place came to be Swoyambhu, mean-
for many miles and from all sides of the valley. His- ing self-created or self-existent. Saints, sages and di-
torical records found on a stone inscription prove vinities traveled to the lake to venerate this miracu-
that the stupa was already an important Buddhist lous light for its power in granting enlightenment.
Prayer Wheel - A symbol of pilgrimage destination by the 5th century AD. Its
Buddhism origins however, date to a much earlier time, long During this time, the aforementioned Manjushri
before the arrival of Buddhism into the valley. A was meditating at the sacred mountain of Wu Tai
collection of legends about the site, the 15th centu- Shan and had a vision of the dazzling Swoyambhu

www.nextyatra.com CoverStory - Swoyambhunath | 37
The presence of
the Harati Devi
temple signifies
the intermingling
of the pantheons
of Hinduism and
Buddhism in the
light. The deity flew across the mountains of China ing perspective. There is no nose between the eyes development
and Tibet upon his blue lion to worship the lotus. but rather a representation of the Nepali numerical of the religious
Deeply impressed by the power of the radiant light, one, signifying that the only way to enlightenment
he felt that if the water were drained out of the is through the Buddhist path. Above each pair of trends of Nepal.
lake, Swoyambhu would become more accessible eyes is the third eye, signifying the wisdom of look-
to human pilgrims. With a great sword Manjushri ing within. No ears are shown because it is said that
cut a gorge in the mountains surrounding the lake. the Buddha is not interested in hearing prayers in
The water drained away, leaving the valley that is his praise.
present day Kathmandu. The lotus was then trans-
formed into a hill and the light became the Swoy- Surrounded by chaityas, temples, painted images
1. Aerial view of
ambhunath Stupa. of deities and numerous other religious objects, Swoyambhunath
the stupa also has many small shrines with statues (Photo Courtesy: Fishtail Air - FA
operates heli-tours on Heritage
Swoyambhunath’s worshippers include Hindus, of Tantric and shamanistic deities, prayer wheels Sites)
Vajrayana Buddhists of northern Nepal and Tibet, for the Tibetan Buddhists, Shiva lingams (now 2. Group of different stupas,
and the Newar Buddhists of central and southern disguised as Buddhist chaityas and decorated with one of the attractions of
Nepal. Each morning before dawn, hundreds of the faces of the Dhyani Buddhas), and a popular Swoyambhunath
pilgrims ascend the 365 steps that lead up the hill, Hindu temple dedicated to Harati, the Goddess of 3. A monastery near the
file past the gilded Vajra (Tibetan - Dorje) and two smallpox and other epidemics. The presence of the stupa
lions guarding the entrance, and begin a series of Harati Devi temple signifies the intermingling of 4. Harati Temple, a Hindu
clockwise circumambulations of the stupa. The the pantheons of Hinduism and Buddhism in the temple at the Buddhist
four pairs of big eyes are symbolic of god’s all-see- development of the religious trends of Nepal. site
2 4
What to do:
The best time to visit
Swayambhunath
is in the day to notice
all its details.
But late in the evenin
g when the
place is lit up with spo
tlights and oil
lamps, is when the stu
pa really shines,
literally. Stay back on
a day visit till
when the lights come up
and enjoy the
calm here.
Special bonus: The hill
top is the best
viewing spot for the city
’s night lights.

38 | CoverStory - pashupatinath www.nextyatra.com
Pashupatinath
Pashupatinath is the ultimate destination for Hindus all

Quick Facts
Location : 5 km east
Importanct Fact : Mo
of Kathmandu
st imp ant cremation
ort
one of the oldest temple
Nepal
place/
s in
over the world. And they have good reason to think so. Built in : 5th century
A.D.
d Shi va
Its history and location all make for a wonderful visit that Devoted to : Lor
Pag oda Style
Archite ctu re Sty le:
allows mythology to come alive.
Nepal’s most important Hindu temple (admission hostile avatar of Shiva as the cruel and destructive
Rs 250 for non Nepalese) stands on the banks of the Bhairab. Shiva also has peaceful avatars. Accord-
holy Bagmati River, on the eastern fringes of Kath- ing to a legend recorded in local texts, especially
mandu. One of the most important Shiva temples the Nepalamahatmya and the Himavatkhanda, the
on the subcontinent, it draws Shiva’s devotees in Hindu god Shiva once fled from the other gods in
the millions during major Hindu festivals. Also in Varanasi to Mrigasthali, the forest on the opposite
presence during these festivals without a miss are bank of the Bagmati River from the temple. There,
Shiva’s faithful sadhus, holy ascetic men, enjoying in the form of a gazelle, he slept with his consort
a hit of marijuana, a favorite of the deity who is Parvati. When the gods discovered him there and
popular for two things, his anger issues and his love tried to bring him back to Varanasi, he leapt across
for the ‘recreational’ drug. the river to the opposite bank, where one of his
Shiva Linga - Idol of Lord Shiva horns broke into four pieces. After this, Shiva be-
Hindus know Lord Shiva as the destroyer and came manifest as Pashupati (lord of animals) in a
creator of the Hindu pantheon. He is also feared four-face (chaturmukha) linga.
in his ‘terrible’ avataars. In Nepal, we know this

www.nextyatra.com CoverStory - pashupatinath | 39
Aerial view of Pashupatinath

(Photo Courtesy: Fishtail Air - FA operates heli-tours on Heritage Sites)
The temple stands in the center of the town of the temple courtyard is the small pagoda temple
Deopatan, in the middle of an open courtyard. On of Vasuki, the King of the Nagas. Vasuki has the
both sides of each door of the temple are niches form of a Naga (mythical snake) from the waist up-
of various sizes containing gold-painted images wards, while the lower parts are an intricate tangle
of guardian deities. Inside the temple and around of snakes’ bodies. According to local belief, Vasuki
the sanctum is a narrow ambulatory. The sanctum took up residence here in order to protect Pashupa-
contains a one-meter high linga with four faces ti. One can often see devotees circumambulating
(chaturmukha) representing Pashupati, as well as and worshipping Vasuki before entering the main
images of Vishnu, Surya, Devi and Ganesh. sanctum.
The struts under the roofs, from the late 17th cen- The Bagmati River, which runs next to Pashapu-
tury, are decorated with wood carvings of members tinath Temple, has highly sacred properties. The
of Shiva’s family such as Parvati, Ganesh, Kumar, banks are lined with many ghats (bathing spots)
Yoginis as well as Hanuman, Ram, Sita, Lakshman for use by pilgrims. Renovating or furnishing these
and other gods and goddesses from the Hindu epic sites has always been regarded as meritorious.
Ramayana.The temple’s extensive grounds include
many other old and important temples, shrines Arya Ghat, dating from the early 1900s, is of spe-
and statues. South of the temple, for instance, is cial importance because it is the only place where
Chadeshvar - an inscribed Lichhavi linga from the pure water for Pashupatinath Temple can be ob-
7th century and Dharmashila, a stone where sacred tained. The main cremation site is Bhasmeshvar
oaths are taken, and pillars with statues of various Ghat, which is the most used cremation site in the
Shah kings. Kathmandu Valley. Across the Bagmati River are 15
votive shrines, the Pandra Shivalaya, which were
On the northern side of the temple is a 9th-cen- built to enshrine lingas in memory of deceased per-
tury temple of Brahma. In the northeast corner of sons between 1859 and 1869.

40 | CoverStory - pashupatinath www.nextyatra.com
In & Around
pashupatinath
1. Path between
Guheshwori and
Pashupatinath temples
2. A unique avatar of
Vishnu
3. Sadhus around
Pashupatinath (photo by
Gregor Younger)
4. Virupakshya
5. Pandra Shivalaya - 15
small temples of Lord
Shiva in a row.
6. Gorakhnath and
2
Vishworup Temples
7. A deer in nearby 4 5
Slesmantak Forest
6 7
What to do:
If possible, vi
sit the temple
the Hindu fest during
ival of Shiva
experience the Ratri to
maddening re
Pashupatinat verie that
h commands.
days, enjoy th On other
e superb arch
the temple and itecture of
peace of the cr
area by the ri emation
ver and the fo
across the rive rests
r where Shiva
believed to ha was
ve lived disgui
a deer. sed as


42 | CoverStory - bouddhanath www.nextyatra.com

www.nextyatra.com CoverStory - bouddhanath | 43
Bouddhanath
With every little detail of the stupa having profound meaning,
Bouddhanath is somewhere you can lose yourself for hours. Amidst the
hustle and bustle of community life here, is a strange aura of peace.
On the eastern side of Kathmandu, trade route coming from Lhasa went
just north of the airport and around 6 through Sankhu, and Bouddhanath
km from the tourists hub of Thamel, therefore lies at the Tibetan traders’
is Bouddhanath (admission for foreign- entry to Kathmandu. One can eas-
ers/SAARC Rs 50/20), home to one of ily imagine the traders giving thanks
the world’s largest stupas. The area is for their successful journey across the
known as Boudha and is the religious Himalaya, or praying for a safe return.
centre for Nepal’s considerable popula- People, including mountaineers and
tion of Tibetan exiles. The side streets Sherpas, still come here to pray before
are full of maroon-robed Tibetans (and undertaking a journey in the Himala-
foreign) monks, gleaming monastery yas.
roofs and shop-fronts full of Tibetan
Tibetan Prayer Wheel texts and yak butter. From a height, Bouddhanth Stupa
looks like a giant mandala - a diagram
This is one of the few places in the of the Buddhist cosmos. And as in all
world where Tibetan culture is acces- Tibetan mandalas, four of the Dhyani
sible, vibrant and unfettered. Boud- Buddhas mark the cardinal points, with
dhanath has always been linked to the fifth, Vairocana, enshrined in the
Quick Facts
Tibetan Buddhism and Lhasa. A major center (in the white hemisphere of the
of Kathmandu
Location : 7 km east
A.D.
Built in : 4th century
d Bud dha
Devoted to : Lor
bu Chorten Chenpo
Also known as : Yam
gest stupa in Nepal
Important Fact : Big
a diameter of about
The whole structure has
a hei ght of approximate
100 meters and
40 meters.
Aerial view of Bouddhanath

(Photo Courtesy: Fishtail Air - FA operates heli-tours on Heritage Sites)

44 | CoverStory - bouddhanath www.nextyatra.com
It’s a wonderful
feeling to be
swept around by
the centrifugal
force of faith -
remember to walk
around the stupa
in a clockwise
direction.
stupa). The five Buddhas also personify the five el- earth. Next are two circular plinths supporting the
ements (earth, water, fire, air and ether) and are hemisphere of the stupa, symbolizing water. As in
1. Front face of represented in the stupa’s architecture. Swoyambhunath, Bouddhanath is topped with a
Bouddhanath square tower bearing the omnipresent Buddha eyes
2. A monastery in There are other symbolic numbers here as well: - on all four sides.The square tower is topped by a
Bouddhanath the nine levels of Boudhanath Stupa represent the pyramid with 13 steps, representing the ladder to
3. A artistic mandala on mythical Mt. Meru, center of the cosmos and the enlightenment. The triangular shape is the abstract
the ceiling 13 rings from the base to the pinnacle symbolize form for the element of fire. At the top of the tower
the path to enlightenment or ‘Bodhi’ — which is a gilded canopy embodying air and above it is a
gives the stupa its name. gilded spire, symbolic of ether and the Buddha Vai-
rocana. Prayer flags tied to the stupa flutter in the
The stupa is surrounded by an irregular 16-sided wind, carrying mantras and prayers heavenward.
wall at the bottom, with frescoes in the niches. In
addition to the five Dhyani Buddhas, the stupa is Late afternoon is a good time to visit Bouddhanath,
closely associated with the Bodhisattva Avalokitesh- when the group tours depart and the place once
vara (Padmapani), whose 108 forms are depicted again becomes a Tibetan village. Prayer services
in sculptures around the base. The mantra of are held in the surrounding gompas and, as the sun
Avalokiteshvara - Om Mani Padme Hum - is sets, the community turns out to pray at the stupa
carved on the prayer wheels beside the images of - a ritual that combines religious observance with
Avalokiteshvara around the base of the stupa. social event. It’s a wonderful feeling to be swept
around by the centrifugal force of faith - remember
At the base of the stupa are three large platforms, to walk around the stupa in a clockwise direction.
decreasing in size. These platforms symbolize the
2
What to do:
in the morning
Visit the area early
e in the eve ning to enjoy the
or lat
pla ce. Get a meal
serenity of the
at any of the
or some Nepali tea
ran ts acr oss from the
new restau
nki ng about how
stupa and try thi
ce wo uld ha ve loo ked like
the pla
o as an ent ry point for
decades ag
Tibetan traders.

www.nextyatra.com CoverStory | 45

46 | CoverStory - bhaktapur www.nextyatra.com
Bhaktapur
Durbar Square
With its famed 55 window palace and serene
environment, spending time in Bhaktapur Durbar Square
will give you a taste of life in ancient Nepal.
Quick Facts
Location : 13 km east of
Kathmandu
Architecture Style: Assortm
ent of Shikar and Pagoda
Style
Major Attractions : The Lion
Gate, The Golden Gate,
The Palace of Fifty Five Win
dows,
The Art Gallery, The Statue
of
King Bhupatindra Malla
Bhaktapur or Bhadgaun as the old folk call ties looking out from their sanctuaries, the
the place is perhaps the best preserved old wood carvings in every place - struts, lintels,
world heritage site in the country. Both tympanums, gateways and windows - all seem
because of it’s out of the way location from to form a well orchestrated symphony.
Kathmandu city and owed to the incredible
preservation work in the area, Bhaktapur The square is full of not to be missed places.
retains the very air of the old days. Its dur- The Lion Gate is a massive gate that dates
bar square is an assortment of pagoda and back to 1696 AD. It is guarded by two huge
shikhara-style temples grouped around a statues of lions at either side. The dreadful
fifty-five-window palace of brick and wood. stone image of Lord Shiva and a fearful im-
The square is part of a charming valley as it age of Ugrachandi stand out. The Golden
highlights the idols of ancient kings perched Gate is said by many to be the most beautiful
on top of stone monoliths, the guardian dei- and richly molded specimen of its kind in

www.nextyatra.com CoverStory - bhaktapur | 47
the entire world. The door demonstrates fifty-five windows, considered a unique Bhupatendra Malla. It was dedicated to
superb craftsmanship depicting monsters masterpiece of woodcarving. The Art Gal- Siddhilaxmi, the tantric goddess of su-
and mythical creatures. It was erected dur- lery contains ancient paintings belonging preme power. Nyatapola in Newari means
ing the reign of King Ranjit Malla and is to the Hindu and Buddhist traditions of a five tiered structure symbolizing five ba-
the entrance to the main courtyard of the various periods and descriptions and is sic elements - water, earth, fire, wind and
fifty-five windows palace. particularly famous among researchers on sky. Also on display is a Pashupati temple
Hinduism and Buddhism. Also popular is built by a Shiva devotee who lived in the
The palace itself was built during the reign a statue of King Bhupendra Malla in the area. The devotee was apparently asked by
of King Yakshay Malla in 1427 and was act of worship. It is located on a column Lord Shiva to make this temple. Another
subsequently remodeled by King Bhupat- facing the palace. temple worth a visit is the stone Vatsala
indra Malla in the 17th century. Among Temple, from the 17th century, dedicated
the brick walls with their gracious setting Arguably the most famous pagoda in Ne- to a mother goddess, which is full of intri-
and sculptural design, is a balcony with pal, Nyatapola was built in 1702 A.D by cate stone work.

48 | CoverStory - bhaktapur www.nextyatra.com
Both because
of it’s out of the
way location
from Kathmandu
city and owed
to the incredible
preservation
work in the area,
Bhaktapur retains
the very air of the
old days.
2 5
What to do:
1. Aerial view of Bhaktapur Durbar Square (Photo 4. An inspiring architecture - Golden gate Torana with The square is the bes
Courtesy: Fishtail Air - FA operates heli-tours on Heritage Sites) Garuda and Taleju Bhavani t preserved out of
the three squares of the
valley. Take some
2. A day shot of Bhaktapur Durbar Square amazing postcard per
5. Nyatapola - 5 tiered temple fect photographs
of the area and of you
3. A stone sculpture of Vishnu over Garuda rself while going
6. Bhaktapur Durbar Square, sparkling in night around. This is a pla
ce you want to
write home about! Als
o, feast on the
very popular milk curd(
Juju Dhau) of
6 Bhaktapur, good for
cooling off on warm
days and also for dig
estion.

www.nextyatra.com CoverStory - kathmandu | 49
kathmandu
Quick Facts
hmandu
Location : Central Kat
tion site for former royalty
Important Fact : Corona
durbar square
Temple, Mahendreshvara
Major Attractions : Taleju ple,
Temple, Jagannath Tem
um an Dho ka, Nas al Chowk,
Han
pa, Ash ok Bin ayak
Kasthamanda
Shrine
This is where community life meets a heritage site in a rich coming
together that celebrates Nepal’s artistic history in the most wonderful
yet simple way.
Kathmandu’s Durbar Square was where the city’s loo bouncing off the white washed walls of the old
kings were once crowned and legitimized, and from palace.
where they ruled (durbar is Nepali for palace). As
such, the square remains the traditional heart of the Although most of the square dates from the 17th and
old town and Kathmandu’s most spectacular lega- 18th centuries (many of the original buildings are
cy of traditional architecture. After the palace was much older), a great deal of damage was caused by
shifted to Narayanhity, which is now a museum, the a large earthquake in 1934. Many structures were
old palace was cordoned off for official use. The sur- rebuilt, but not always in their original form.
rounding area however is open to the public making
it a wonderful coming together of a heritage site with The Durbar Square area is actually made up of three
the everyday life of the thousands who go through loosely linked squares. To the south is the open Bas-
there every day. Part vegetable market, part tour- antapur area, which runs into Freak Street, an old,
ist hub for its small knick knacks, it’s easy to spend popular tourist destination frequented by hippies
hours wandering around the square and watching back in the 70’s. There is the main Durbar Square
the world go by from the terraced platforms of the area, with its popular terraced temples to the west.
towering Maiju Deval. From this perched location, Running northeast is a second part of the square,
the chaos of the traffic in the area somehow has a which contains the entrance to the Hanuman Dho-
sense of peace and purpose, their collective hullaba- ka and an assortment of temples. From this open


The square remains the traditional heart of the

old town and Kathmandu’s most spectacular
legacy of traditional architecture.
What to do:
Climb atop the terrac
ed Maiju Deval
temple with a cup of
tea, brewing at its
base at the busiest hou
r of the day and
enjoy the chaos of life
in the old town.
Leave your iPod and
travel guide at
home. Lose yourself her
e.
area Makhan Tole - at one time the main road in

Kathmandu and still the most interesting street
to walk down - continues northeast. A good place
to start an exploration of the square is with what
may well be the oldest building in the valley,
the unprepossessing Kasthamandap, supposedly 1, 2. Wide shots of Kathmandu Durbar
built out of the wood from a single tree. Square
3. Taleju Temple
The entry ticket to Durbar Sqaure is valid only
for the date stamped. If you want a longer dura- 4. Nautalle Durbar (Nine storyed
palace)
tion you need to go to the site office (4268969;
opening hours 07:00 - 19:00) on the south side
of Basantapur Square, to get a free visitor’s pass,
which allows you access for as long as your visa is
valid. You will need your passport and one photo
and the process takes about two minutes.

52 | CoverStory - patan www.nextyatra.com
patan Durbar
Square
s
Quick Fact
Patan Durbar
east of Kathmandu
Location : 5 km
of ancient Newari
: good specimen
Importance ect ur e.
archit
Square
th 21 golden
rac tio ns :
Krishna temple wi
Major Att l Ch ow k, Sundari
pinnacles, Mu
ow k, Ke sh av Na rayan Chowk
Ch
Monuments and temples are literally crammed

into this Durbar Square. Linger here and feel
the ‘breath of centuries’.
No other site demonstrates everyday lives merged could be found in such great density? Patan Dur-
into the heritage site as well as Patan’s Durbar bar Square is one such wonder. Bhaktapur’s Dur-
Square. Tourists in Nepal will find themselves bar Square is preserved almost like a museum with
utterly awestruck by the exceptional grouping of only minimal activity inside the square and a large
palaces, shrines, monuments and temples in Patan part of Kathmandu’s Durbar Square is cordoned off
Durbar Square. Who would have thought that so for official use by the state. Patan’s Durbar Square
many buildings of historical and religious value is unique in that it’s temples and the grand palace

www.nextyatra.com CoverStory - patan | 53
Krishna Mandir
and huge square is so very integrated into the Some of Nepal’s top sights and architectural
lives of the people who live there. Outside the feats are located in close proximity to each oth-
palace you will see old men resting on wooden er at this famed Durbar Square. The square is
benches, reading the paper or smoking and talk- loosely designed around a former royal palace.
ing to each other. On the steps of the temples in Surrounding the intricately designed palace of
front of the palace-Patan museum, you will see are numerous temples, all exquisite examples of
young people converge at the end of the day, sip- Newari architecture. Patan Durbar Square boasts
ping on tea or enjoying the street food that peo- of three courtyards, known locally as chowks.
ple seem to enjoy here right on the square. You These are the Keshab Narayan Chowk, Mul
will not see people embracing city life so much Chowk and Sundari Chowk. Standing out as a
anywhere else in Nepal with people choosing to classical example of Nepali stone architecture is
Sundari Chowk sit on the steps of their homes and not inside. the grand Krishna Mandir. Containing some 21

54 | CoverStory - patan www.nextyatra.com
Patan’s Durbar
Square is unique
in that it’s temples
and the grand
palace and huge
square is so very
integrated into the
lives of the people
who live there.
shrines, the temple stone structure was construct- praiseworthy metal work is the Bhimsen Temple.
ed during the 1600s under the direction of King The temple was built in honor of Bhim, a god
Siddhi Narsingh Malla. It was built with the pur- worshiped by businessmen in Nepal for bringing
pose of praising Lord Vishnu in his incarnation as them good luck. Other sights to look out for in
Krishna. Scenes from the Mahabharata have been Patan Durbar Square are Taleju Bhawani Temple
carefully engraved on the temple walls. (1667), Degu Taleju Temple, Oku Bahal beind
1. Patan Durbar Square with the Rudra Varna Maha Vihar and Mahaboudha
Taleju havani temple in
As you make your way around Sundari Chowk of Temple – the temple of a thousand Buddhas.
background
Patan Durbar Square you will see the magnificent
2. Aerial view of Patan Durbar Tushahity royal bath. This exquisite structure is a As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Patan Dur-
Square (Photo Courtesy: Fishtail Air -
FA operates heli-tours on Heritage Sites) marvelous work of stone art. A massive platform bar Square has much to offer tourists. Not only
3. Mul Chowk in Patan Durbar built from stone dominates the chowk. It is here can visitors view the marvelous structures and
Square that one of the kings would sleep during cold religious art works, but there are also fascinating
4. Keshav Narayan Chowk in
nights and sit during the monsoon rains, all with stores located around the squares where you can
Patan Durbar Square the goal of achieving eternal bliss. find delightful souvenirs and other items.
Another popular attraction in the square is the

famed Golden Temple. Inside this Newar monas-
tery is a marvelous collection of metal sculptures,
What to do:
statues, paintings and scriptures. The deity that When in Patan, do as
locals do.
resides inside this temple is supposed to be a pow- Enjoy the world go by
from one of the
erful one and pooja ceremonies here follow strict benches outside the Pa
tan Museum,
or on the steps of any
rules. One is asked to remove leather products temple in the
area. Enjoy the street
such as belts, wallets or shoes before entering the food or better
still feed some pigeon
s while you are
premises. Another religious site here that features spending time doing not
hing.

www.nextyatra.com CoverStory | 55
to museum pieces. Quite the associated with legends, rituals UNESCO has consistently
contrary is true. These sites and festivals. worked towards generating
are so intricately woven into increased awareness of the site
people’s lives here that their These seven monument zones managers for the preservation
absence would mean a huge of the Kathmandu Valley of the world heritage values of
vacuum in the community, have fulfilled specific criteria the site, notably through the
They are physical and cultural to be together on the list of preparation of the Integrated
signatures of the community World Heritage and deserve Management Framework
living in and around espousing to be preserved for the value which was adopted by the
their ancestors’ great they holds not just to bring Government of Nepal as
Words from contribution to the civilization
of Asia, notably representing
in tourists, but also as an
important part of the Nepalese
a benchmark for assuring
sufficient protection of the sites.
unesco the era of Nepalese
renaissance in terms of highly
people’s rich cultural, artistic
and architectural history.
The approval of this framework
had a considerable impact
Axel Plathe developed craftsmanship in UNESCO plays an important upon the decision making
Head, UNESCO Office in Kathmandu brick, wood and bronze as role in the preservation of levels by bringing together
UNESCO Representative to Nepal
well as of various cultural the World Heritage Site of the different stakeholders and
The seven monument zones manifestations that used to be the Kathmandu Valley that government line agencies into
of the Kathmandu Valley a part of their communal life. is one of four sites in the dialogue.
inscribed on the list of World country. Over time, UNESCO
The exceptional architectural As Head of the UNESCO
Cultural Heritage as a single has been not only been
typologies displaying historic Office here in Kathmandu, it is
site “Kathmandu Valley World helping to preserve these
and artistic achievement testify indeed a pleasure to contribute
Heritage Site” in 1979 hold sites through strong alliances
to “living cultural traditions” to the preservation of such
a very special place in the with the national authorities,
manifested even today in the amazing sites that belongs to
Nepalese people’s lives. These notably the Department of
unique urban setting of the all humanity. I look forward to
ensembles, including Hindus Archaeology and the site
Newar community and reflect working with the Nepali people
and Buddhist monuments managers represented by the
a unique coexistence and to protect them from the threats
and three residential palaces municipalities and the trusts,
amalgamation of Hinduism that may affect them and to
of the former royal cities but also with the communities
and Buddhism within the ensure that they contribute to
of Kathmandu, Patan and living in and around the
strategic natural setting as an social cohesion and well being,
Bhaktapur, are not simply monument zones whose daily
interface between the great including in promoting them in
monuments and sites that lives are so closely linked with
cultures to the north and south relation to the celebration of
were constructed by ancient these places.
of the Himalayas, closely the Nepal Tourism Year 2011.
rulers that have been reduced
There has been criticism from the interna- adventures, to extreme sports and trekking
Getting there: tional community that preservation of the in the great Himalayas, the packages offer
All of the sites mentioned above heritage sites has not been up to par. It has all. While the state tourism board’s pref-
are easily reached. There are local to be understood however that the monu- erence to quantity over quality has been
buses that go towards all the sites ments here are not merely show pieces but frowned upon, with many skeptics calling
mentioned after which one might an important part of daily lives. There are it mere wishful thinking for the country’s
have to take a short walk to get to a huge number of people who frequent ill-equipped hospitality sector to accom-
the heritage site. these sites, not as tourists but because modate so many tourists, it’s still a very
their daily lives - may it be prayers, small good initiative. It’s about time the Nepali
Taxis will easily get one exactly to
the site. Cycling or hiring a mo- businesses or even something as simple people stopped worrying about every pos-
torbike for a day might be other as a morning walk revolves around these sible setback to its development and took
options. Non Nepali tourists might places. Preservation is undoubtedly impor- concrete steps towards it.
be asked for a small entrance fee tant to highlight the rich cultural, artistic
at some sites. These rates differ and architectural history of the Nepalese
for tourists from SAARC and non- people. But all of this has to be understood References: www.unesco.org/kathmandu
SAARC countries. and defined from a uniquely Nepali point
of view.
Nepal Tourism Year 2011 is one such plan;

The three other sites on the country’s
heritage site list are the expansive forests a pretty ambitious one too for that mat-
of the Chitwan National Park, the serene ter. The numerous promotional packages
and equally grand Sagarmatha National have been aimed at bringing in a million www.welcomenepal.com
Park and Lumbini – the birthplace of the visitors. Promoters claim to have come up
Buddha. To promote all ten sites is a must
and processes are underway to make the with new and innovative travel packages
most of the UNESCO listing. to suit every kind of tourist. From history Together for Tourism
and culture-themed escapades to wildlife

56 | hEALTHTIMES www.nextyatra.com
health
S tay i n g By Dr. Ravi Shankar
Dr. Ravi Shankar is a medical doctor and clinical
pharmacologist at KIST Medical College, Lalitpur. He has
traveled widely throughout Nepal and has been involved
in research about staying well at altitude. He is keenly
interested in rational use of medicines and in empowering
in Kathmandu
common people about health, illness and medicine.
Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal evokes strong emotions among travelers.

Some on reaching the valley fall hopelessly in love with its splendid
architecture, bustling durbar squares, majestic monuments and the deep
sense of history which pervades the city. Others take a look at the crowded,
chaotic streets, the dust and the pollution, the dirty polluted rivers and cannot
wait to hop on the next flight home.
Kathmandu valley has seven World Heritage sites. Among these are the durbar squares of the three ancient
capitals of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhadgaon (Bhaktapur), the Changu Narayan temple, the temple complex
of Pashupatinath and the stupas of Boudhanath and Swayambhunath. With this concentration of world
heritage sites and Kathmandu being the major point of entry/exit the traveler is bound to spend a lot of time
in the valley. In this article we look at how to stay healthy in the Kathmandu valley.
As in any large city, rapid urbanization has The other major concern is about food
caused an increase in population with at- and drinking water. Over the years, unfor-
tendant problems of clean air, safe drink- tunately, the quality of drinking water in
ing water and sewage disposal. Traffic the Kathmandu valley has deteriorated.
and brick kilns are among the major air Ensure you drink only clean, boiled water.
pollution sources. Avoid the evening peak Storage of boiled water in unclean con-
hours if possible and try to patronize hotels tainers can cause recontamination. While
set back from the road. Jogging along the going on a day trip either buy a processed
roads can increase the breathing rate and drinking water bottle or ensure your hotel
depth of respiration and a greater amount supplies you with clean, boiled water in a
of pollutants can reach the lungs. Also most clean bottle (better). Bringing water to a
roads lack side walks or are perennially dug rolling boil for around 20 seconds ensures
up increasing the risk of accidents. that most disease-causing organisms are


58 | hEALTHTIMES www.nextyatra.com
destroyed. If you are using processed water most common organisms responsible in Check that your hotel/lodge has adequate
remember to crush the bottle after use and Nepal for it are Entameba and Giardia. In mosquito protection measures and/or of-
keep in mind that plastic bottles are a ma- Nepal, a drug called metronidazole (met- fers mosquito nets. Mosquito repellent
jor environmental problem in the valley. ron) is commonly prescribed and used in creams may be helpful. The altitude of the
all types of stomach infections. The drug valley however does not expose travelers to
A variety of disease causing germs can be can cause a metallic taste in the mouth the risk of altitude sickness.
transmitted through food. Food prepara- and can cause a severe reaction when al-
tion methods can vary in quality and the cohol is taken. The valley is surrounded by hills which of-
water used for cooking may be of doubt- fer trekking opportunities. While trekking
ful quality. Certain restaurants have a Monkeys can be a menace at certain loca- the usual risk of injuries is present. This has
good reputation for cleanliness and good tions in the valley. Some sites frequented been discussed in detail in a previous issue
food handling. You can patronize them. by monkeys are the Thapathali monument of Travel Times. In the monsoon leeches
Remember that quality of restaurants can complex, Swayambhunath Stupa and may be present and the risk of leech bites is
fluctuate quickly in Kathmandu. Properly the Pashupatinath temple. Monkeys usu- a possibility. The valley’s location ensures
cooked food is safe but be careful with sal- ally try to snatch food from the hands of that summers are usually pleasant and the
ads. If you have to eat them ensure they unwary travelers. Do not keep your food high temperatures seen in the flatlands
are properly washed in clean water prefer- out in the open. Do not eat and drink in (the Terai) are rare. Risk of health related
ably with some iodine. Food spoils quickly a place where monkey are common. Do illness is minimal. The average tempera-
in the high temperature of summer and not go near baby monkeys. A tetanus tox- ture though has been steadily increasing.
previously prepared and reheated food oid injection may be necessary for mon- Health related illnesses have been covered
may be dangerous. I still remember an key bites and scratches. Clean the wound in a previous issue of Travel Times. Re-
episode which happened nine years ago. well with soap and water and apply an member to wear loose white clothing in
My friends and I had had some food in a antiseptic ointment and a clean dressing. summer, use a hat and stay well hydrated
restaurant which looked pretty safe. I had Monkeys are deemed capable of transmit- and replace the salt losses while walking
severe vomiting and diarrhea later that ting rabies in Nepal and all travelers are around the valley in the summer months.
night and by the morning was weak and requested to complete their course In winters the minimum temperature is
dehydrated. I suspect the reheated ‘dal’ of pre-exposure rabies prophylaxis about 4° C and thick woolens may be re-
(lentil soup, a staple of the Nepalese diet) before coming to Nepal. If a person quired.
was the culprit. has completed the course of injec-
tions and is exposed to a possibly ra- However, the valley has some world class
Stomach infection can result in severe bid animal then two shots of a booster medical facilities. There are many up to
vomiting and may cause diarrhea or dys- injection are recommended. If the par public and private hospitals. Many
entery. Diarrhea is loose watery stool and person has not taken the pre-exposure teaching hospitals attached to medi-
is commonly caused by viruses. Antibiotics injections then immunoglobulin injected cal schools are also present in the
will however have no effect on the course around the wound offers immediate valley. There are specialized travel
of illness. Diarrhea causes loss of salt and protection followed by the course of medicine clinics which deal with
water through the stool and oral rehydra- rabies treatment injections. Stray problems of travelers.
tion salts (ORS, Jeevan Jal, Nava Jeevan) dogs are plentiful in the valley. Do
may be all that is required. Dysentery is not pick up strays and be careful
blood and mucus in the stool and the two while entering houses with dogs.
Quick tips to stay healthy in

Before coming to Nepal Kathmandu
it is recommended that • Keep in mind noise and vehicular pollution. If
possible stay in quiet areas set back from the road
you update your vaccina- • Drink only clean, boiled water

• When going on day trips either use packaged
tion status by completing drinking water or get your hotel lodge to provide you
clean, boiled water in a clean container (preferable)
the required courses of • Patronize restaurants which maintain good standards

of hygiene
immunizations. • Be careful with salads and raw foods

• Keep ORS handy. Dissolve a sachet in a liter of boiled
and cooled water, store in a clean container and use
as required
The vaccines recommended are hepati- • Be careful around monkeys
tis A, hepatitis B, Japanese encephalitis, • Complete your course of vaccinations before visiting
meningococcal meningitis, rabies, polio, Nepal
tetanus toxoid and typhoid. The valley is at • Be careful while trekking in the hills surrounding the
valley
a height of around 1400 m and is free from • Dress appropriately to suit temperature requirements
malaria though mosquitoes are aplenty. • Seek specialized help when required


60 | hotels&casinos www.nextyatra.com
Culture meets luxury
dwarika’S Text by Yesha Malla
HOTEL
P
eople travel to find new things, ex- to see that Nepal too has fallen victim to ever Heritage Hotel, more than makes up
plore new cultures, meet foreign rapid Westernization. Nepali traditions for the current apathy towards disappearing
people with thoughts so different all but forgotten, vehicles jamming the Nepali traditions and antiques. Entering
from their own. They long for exotic cus- streets, fast food chains cropping up every- the unassuming doorway to Dwarika’s, you
toms, unique food, and quirky traditions where, modern Western-style hotels, did find yourself in a quaint sitting room over-
that will enliven the ordinary lifestyles they they travel all that way to find a disappoint- looking a courtyard evoking bygone eras of
have become so used to back at home. ing copy of what they already had where historical glory. Handmade old furniture
Tourists come to Nepal to experience its they came from? carved with dancing figures and tables
authentic culture for themselves, and it of polished wood adorn the waiting area,
must be a more than a little disappointing Fortunately, Dwarika’s Hotel, Nepal’s first complete with a set of the ancient game of

Walking about “Bagchal” to play at leisure. The sounds of the

city now sound far away and are pretty much
emerged and so Dwarika’s Hotel was
born.
the hotel premises forgotten in the sunlit cobbled floor of the
courtyard dotted with rustling trees teeming Today, even after his demise, his quest to
will make you feel with chirping birds. The atmosphere is rustic
and peaceful, as if time stands still in the heart
protect the architectural glory of Nepal
is not only alive and well but thriving.
like you are in an of fast paced Kathmandu. Dwarika’s Hotel prides in its mission to
not only scour the nation for and rescue
ancient palace, what Dwarika’s is a unique hotel that was not, like
most hotels, opened for commercial business
carved wooden artifacts to add to their
burgeoning collection but also train
with the carvings purposes. Rather, it evolved as a work in prog-
ress, out of the efforts of a noble man to pre-
their own legion of craftsmen to dupli-
cate the skills of ancient Nepali artisans.
and art pieces that serve the culture of his homeland. In 1952, the
late Dwarika Das Shrestha, pained to see in-
The craftsmen are trained to effectively
repair and refurbish missing pieces of
have been flawlessly tricately engraved wooden pillars being ripped
off unceremoniously from old buildings to be
wood carvings imitating the style of the
ancient carvers and incorporate them
crafted into the used for firewood or stripped off for lumber,
bought them on the spot rather than see them
into the Dwarika’s buildings. A tiny lane
from the main buildings of Dwarika’s Ho-
buildings. destroyed. He couldn’t bear to see signs of the
selfsame destruction of the symbols of archi-
tel leads to a special restoration workshop
established for this purpose.
tectural prowess of his forefathers everywhere
1. Facade of the Hotel and soon after started to salvage all the artifacts With such a noble mission and such
2. Bathroom of Royal Suite he could, creating an extensive collection in dedication to art, it is befitting to find that
3. Lumbini Lounge
the process. As his collection grew, he needed Dwarika’s hotel is spectacularly beauti-
a place to keep them in. He decided then to ful. Walking about the hotel premises
construct a building in the old Newari style of will make you feel like you are in an an-
Kathmandu using the carved doors and win- cient palace, what with the carvings and
dows he had rescued. The idea of using the art pieces that have been flawlessly craft-
building as a lodge so people could appreciate ed into the buildings. Each artifact res-
the architectural skills and culture of Nepal cued and lovingly preserved has its own

showpieces placed in the niches and on the

tables further adorn the rooms. The Royal
Suite does justice to its regal name, with its
spacious and luxuriant interiors, the valu-
able art pieces, and the stairs leading to an
upper chamber complete with a chess set.
Huge windows look out to the charming
courtyard of the hotel. A door leads to the
terrace where one can spend hours sun-
bathing or enjoy the fresh evenings, lying
on the swing chair at the farthest end.
The Hotel provides many ways to whittle

away time pleasantly. You can go to the
Library Lounge, lined with books from
Dwarika Das Shrestha’s collection, mostly
dealing with Nepal and its culture. It is
cozy and softly lit, where you can spend a
comfortable evening by the fireplace with
friends or family, or simply in the company
of books. Exploring the House of Treasure
All modern history, accompanied by tales of lore and ritu-
als from ancient times. The oldest is a large for souvenirs is another perhaps more ex-
pensive option. Or perhaps you would like
implements ornate door from the 13th century. Each wing
of the Hotel is unique and was built at differ- to take a few laps at the swimming pool that
imitates a lavish 12th century Malla Dy-
are seamlessly ent years in different styles. Each is a veritable
museum on its own. nasty baths. Even better, you can enjoy spe-
cial in-room massages – natural Ayurvedic
concealed Dwarika’s Hotel boasts Heritage Rooms, Ju- massages, relaxing Deep Tissue Vibration
massages, or traditional Newari massages.
behind authentic nior Suites, Executive Suites and the Royal
Suite, all individually furnished, unlike the Besides recreational facilities, the Lohn
Hiti conference hall, so called because of
handmade box set décor of most hotels. Fully equipped
to make guests comfortable, and at home, the the stone spouts gushing water nearby –
lohn hiti is literally stone spouts in Newari
furniture so as rooms, with floors of finely polish terracotta
tiles, beamed ceilings and carved windows, - is also available for business seminars and
workshops.
to maintain the are quaint and very welcoming. All modern
implements are seamlessly concealed behind
A surefire way of experiencing a culture,
authentic look. authentic handmade furniture so as to main-
tain the authentic look. Collectibles and is of course, through food. Dwarika’s ho-
tel has the Krishnarpan restaurant to give
you a taste of Nepali cuisine in traditional
Nepali surroundings. Here you can enjoy
delicious Nepali fare ranging from 6 to a
22 courses on the floor with traditional Ne-
pali utensils. The small chamber that lead
into the main dining area is stocked with
classy wines, and lined with framed photo-
graphs of celebrities, VIPs, and royalty who
graced the hotel and dined in Krishnarpan.
1. Royal Suite Lounge

2. Krishnarpan restaurant to give
you a taste of Nepali cuisine in
traditional Nepali surroundings
3. Nepali cuisine served in
Krishnarpan restaurant

If you ever wanted to

indulge yourself in Lit by dim soothing lights, the huge hall
is dotted with low tables and cushions
Nepali culture and on the floor. In true Nepali tradition,
shoes have to be removed before enter-
history, Dwarika’s is the ing the restaurant. For an international
feel, Dwarika’s also accommodates the
place to go. Toran Restaurant which features first
class dining from all over the world. The
Fusion Bar, where the traditional meets
1. Toran Restaurant the new, is the place to hang out, with
2. Fusion Bar live blues and Jazz music, exotic drinks,
3. Swimming pool great food and a casual atmosphere.
Musical instruments, photographs of fa-
mous musicians line the walls.
Dwarika’s Hotel’s success is evident in

the other establishments it operates: the
Dwarika’s Himalayan Shangri-la Vil-
lage Resort in Dhulikhel and the Kaiser
Café Restaurant and Bar at the Garden
of Dreams, Thamel. The hotel was
featured in “Asia’s Legendary Hotels”
in 2007, in the renowned HIP Hotels
series of books: “HIP Hotels: Orient”
by Herbert Ypma and in “The Hotel
Book” published by Taschen, Germany.
Its heritage restoration attempts was
appreciated and honored by the PATA
(Pacific Asia Travel Association) and the
hotel was awarded its first PATA Heri-
tage Award in 1980. It was even named
a World Heritage Site. Its continued ef-
forts to preserve the architectural heri-
tage of Nepal has obviously paid off.
If you ever wanted to indulge yourself in

Nepali culture and history, Dwarika’s is
the place to go. Nowhere else will you
be able to stay in an authentic museum
of Nepali artifacts and not be told off
for touching the specimens. Travelers
hungry for a taste of Nepal, stay here
and enjoy its truly Nepali atmosphere,
be inspired by its dedication to its cul-
tural conservation principles as well as
towards the comfort and satisfaction of
its guests, and return home satisfied and
content, for you have experienced the
essence of Nepal, in Dwarika’s Hotel.
For more information on Dwarika’s Hotel, log on to:

www.dwarikasgroup.com

64 | Recommended restaurants&Bars www.nextyatra.com
365 Restaurant with Hookah Bar Ghangri’s Sumai Restaurat Layaku Restaurant Royal Thai Restaurant
Pulchowk, Lalitpur Teku Durbar Square, Bhaktapur New Baneshwor, Kathmandu
Tel: 2110800 Tel:4260630 Tel: 4781104 Tel: 4781104
Speciality: Arabian Speciality: Multi Speciality: Multi Speciality: Thai
Baryo Fiesta Green Olive Restaurant & Shisha Mama Mia Italia Restaurant Rum Doodle
Naxal, Kathmandu Bar Thamel Thamel, Kathmandu
Tel: 4414395 Chhetrapati Tel:2191729 Tel: 4701107
Speciality: Tandoori, Taas Tel:4212730 Speciality: Italian Speciality: Steak & Pizza
Speciality: Italian/Indian
Bhojan Griha Pvt.Ltd Matsuri Seoul Arirang Korean
Dillibazar Green Organic Café & Salad Bar Sherpa Mall, Kathmandu Restaurant
Tel: 4411603 Thamel, Kathmandu Tel: 4229032 Nagpokhari, Kathmandu
Speciality: Nepali Tel: 4215726 Speciality: Chinese, Japanese Tel: 4429052
Speciality: Nepali, Continental Speciality: Korean
Bhumi The Restro Lounge Mike’s Breakfast
Lazimpat, Kathmandu Himalayan Java Coffee Lounge Naxal, Kathmandu Shisha Terrace Cafe and Bar
Tel: 4412193 Thamel Tel: 4781104 Thamel
Speciality: Newari Tel:4422519 Speciality: American. Mexican, Italian Tel:4701104
Speciality: Multi Speciality: Multi
Boddhi Garden Vegetarian Moods Studio Lounge
Restaurant Hot Breads Blue Bird Mall Shogun Japanese Restaurant
Maharajgunj, Kathmandu New Road, Kathmandu Tel:4215740 Babarmahal, Kathmandu
Tel: 4721939 Tel: 4429031 Speciality: Multi Cuisine Tel: 4263720
Speciality: Various Veg Tastes Speciality: Confectionery Speciality: Japanese
Nepali Chulo Restaurant
Bourbon Room Kausi Kitchen Restaurant & Bar Durbar Marg Tamas SPA Lounge
Narayanhiti Marg, Kathmandu Woodland Complex Tel:4220475 JP Road, Kathmandu
Tel: 4441703 Tel: 4227288 Speciality: Nepali Fixed Dinner Tel: 4257658
Speciality: Continental, Italian, Oriental Speciality: Multi Speciality: Multi
Nhuchhe’s Organic Bistro
Cafereena Khing Thai Baluwatar, Kathmandu Tukuche Thakali Kitchen
Sherpa Mall, Kathmandu Jp Road, Chaksibari Marg Tel: 4414383 Durbar Marg, Kathmandu
Tel: 4231313 Tel:4244378 Speciality: Organic Foods Tel: 4225890
Speciality: Thai, Multi Speciality: Thai Speciality: Authentic Nepali
Pizza Express
Café de Patan Koto Restaurant Lazimpat Tushita
Patan Durbar Square, Lalitpur Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel:2161212 Lazimpat, Kathmandu
Tel: 5537599 Tel: 4226025 Speciality: Pizza Tel: 4432957
Speciality: Newari Foods Speciality: Japanese Cuisine Speciality: Continental, Nepali
Rice & Bowl Restaurant
Cherry Lounge & Bar K-Too Bear & Steak House Tripureshwor Wunjala Moskva
Lazimpat, Opp. Shangrila Hotel Paryatan Marg, Kathmandu Tel:4260677 Naxal, Kathmandu
Mob: 9741 115143 Tel: 4700043 Speciality: Chinese Tel: 4781104
Speciality: Cherry flavour drinks Speciality: Thai Speciality: Newari, Russian
La Dolce Vita Red Dingo Speciality: Israeli, Arabia
Chez Caroline Thamel Jawalakhel, Lalitpur
Babarmahal, Kathmandu Tel:4700612 Tel: 01-6914930
Tel: 4263070 Speciality: Italian Speciality: Australian
Speciality: French
Road House Cafe Royal Saino Restaurant & Bar
Delicatessen Center & Cafe Pulchowk, Lalitpur Durbar Marg, Kathmandu
Durbar marg Tel: 5520524 Tel: 01-230890
Tel:4221331 Speciality: Italian Speciality: Indian, Continental
Speciality: Multi
Dhaba Restaurant & Bar

Thapathali, Kathmandu
Tel: 4100510
Speciality: Indian
Factory
Thamel
Tel: 4701185
Speciality: Multi
Fire And Ice

Thamel
Tel:4250210
Speciality: Italian
Flavour’s Café & Restaurant

Bouddha, Kathmandu
Tel: 2140277
Speciality: Chinese


66 | FOOdRINK www.nextyatra.com
Samay Baji
Food of the Gods
Text by Prabal B. Malla
{ {
Laa chhaku wayka Samay baji,
Give us Samaybaji with a piece of meat
Walla walla pulu kishi…

Here comes the white elephant….
These are the words to an old, humorous Newari song, passed down from one generation to
the other. During the Indra Jatra festival, the words to this song ring through the streets of old
Kathmandu. As they labor hard pulling at a chariot, the song is sung in anticipation of the
feasting that that will take place to mark the end of the festival.
Location Wunjala Moskva, Naxal, Kathmandu

www.nextyatra.com foodrink | 67
H
“ eave, ho…heave, ho…pull
harder, flank to the left, get out
of the way …” hordes of tipsy
men shout. A magnificent chariot of
the living goddess Kumari along with
smaller but equally majestic chariots of
the elephant god Ganesh and Bhairab
are being pulled into the cultural hub of
Kathmandu, the Hanuman Dhoka. It is
the time of the Lakhe dances, folk dramas
and joyful processions. The white wicker
elephant (Indra’s Steed) tumbles around,
dancing amidst the amusement of ev-
eryone around. Children are running
around giggling and singing songs while
the women look at the procession with a
smile on their faces. The great festivity of
Indra Jatra is coming to its royal end. This
is marked by a huge feast in which, the
whole of the city participates, some at the
square itself while most at their homes.
The feast is called Samay Baji. Samay baji is labeled as the ‘food of gods’ and pure
Diversity is their hallmark; feasting is their by the Newars and hence offered to the gods on
passion. They are the Newars, the indig-
enous folk of the Kathmandu valley who many occasions.
work at different professions and excel primary elements from whence people mustard seeds and vinegar. These spices
in all. Most importantly, they are known and everything else evolve and dissolve are used to add flavour to the dish actually give
for their food culture, which is rich and five folds. From god himself, space came the cuisine its unique taste.
varied, though the rest of the world has in to being; from space, air was born; from
yet to taste it. A traditional dish of the air, the burning fire; from fire, water; fi- It basically constitutes Baji (beaten rice),
Newars, Samay Baji is a regular item in nally from water, the earth. Symbolization Samay (puffed rice), Chhoyla (grilled
many Newari festivities. What makes this of the pancha tatwa in this dish signifies meat), Sanya (smoked fish), Mushya
dish so popular is the range of varieties on the importance this dish holds in Newari (fried soya bean), Lava (garlic), Palu
offer. Samay Baji is a set of dishes repre- folklore. (sliced ginger), Woh (ground black lentils
senting the Pancha Tatwa (five elements) pancake), Bhuti ( boiled beans), Alu Waa-
and more. The pancha tatwa holds a high This Newar cuisine comprises of mustard la (boiled potato), Khein (egg), Chatamari
pedestal in many religions and cultures, oil and a host of spices, such as cumin, ses- (ground ricepankcake) served with Aila or
in particular, Hinduism and Buddhism. ame seeds, turmeric, garlic, ginger, methi, Thwon:, the common liquors that Newars
According to Hindu scripts, the great or bayleaves, cloves, cinnamon, pepper, chili, make at home.
Samay is a variation of the regular Baji is dehusked rice which is Chhoyla – meat grilled over Sanya, an integral part of Samay
beaten rice in which the beaten flattened into flat light dry flakes. This the flames of dried wheat plants, Baji, is basically fresh water fish
rice is lightly fried till it’s puffy. This form of raw, ready to eat form of rice is is a very popular Newari dish that is dried and smoked till its
puffiness created by trapped air is very popular in Nepal and is an integral that goes far beyond its ethnic crispy brown. It represents the
the reason why Samay symbolizes part of a Nepali’s diet. It even holds it’s boundaries. It represents one third pancha tatwa - water.
one of the pancha tatwas - space. own in various cultural and religious of the five pancha tatwas - the
ceremonies. The crunchy feel of the earth. This mouth watering dish is
baji is good on the taste buds and
made up of buffalo meat which is
goes easy on the stomach.
marinated with spices and grilled.

68 | foodrink www.nextyatra.com
Woh is an exclusive Newari dish aila is a locally brewed rice brandy Aalu Waala means mixed potatoes Khein is a boiled egg, lightly fried and
prepared by grounding black lentils. The which is a considerably strong drink. in Newari. Boiled potatoes are cut into served whole. Eggs hold an important
mash is then shaped into small pancakes Thnwo: however is more like Newari pieces and mixed lightly with a hint of role in Newari customs. They are offered
and cooked till it’s slightly brown. Bhuti beer. This represents the final pancha spice, edible oils and salt. It serves to be and partaken on every occasion ranging
is a very simple vegetable dish consist- tatwa -fire for obvious reasons. It is con- quite a good cohort to the beaten rice. from festivals for the gods to birthdays.
ing of boiled and salted beans. sumed in almost all Newari festivals and
thus is a signature drink of the Newars.
Some items can be added or removed

from this incredible mixture depending
With so many festivals and such a rich culture of
on the occasion. The vast range of items food and drink and worship, celebrated for ages,
and varying flavors give it a unique taste.
Served on a traditional leaf plate, the pre-
the Newars are cultural standouts when it comes to
sentation itself is a piece of art. The dif- feasting.
ferent colors and smells provide enough
incentive to dig in as soon as the food is Every next morsel tastes different from the a number of good restaurants where you
served. The beaten rice (Baji) and the flat- last. can try some good Newari cuisine. Or, if
tened rice (Samay) are centred while the you have Newar friends, perhaps you’ll be
rest of the items are placed round the cen- Samay baji is labeled as the ‘food of gods’ lucky enough to be invited to a traditional
tre piece. The Aaila is served alongside, and pure by the Newars and hence offered Samey Baji meal.
customarily on a clay saucer. to the gods on many occasions. Many res-
taurants in and around Kathmandu give As the feast concludes, the people of the
Samay baji is traditionally eaten seated on everyone a chance to taste what the gods city get back to their hearths with heavy
the floor on long mats woven from straw devour. Not just a unique cuisine, it is a hearts - the sights and sounds of the cel-
called sukul. Only the right hand is used cultural heritage and a piece of history that ebration still imposed in their minds, for
to eat (after washing of course!) while the has survived the test of time. And to be a they wish that the night would last for ever.
left hand should never touch food as it is part of the past, the future and the present, A stomach filled with Samay baji and the
considered impure but may be used for all in the same instant of time, is a privi- mind filled with Aaila, the tired citizens
cups and glasses. It is usually eaten by lege that not everyone can experience. of this ancient country drift away into a
mixing all the side dishes in different ways peaceful slumber on the full moon night,
with the beaten rice, little by little, savor- With so many festivals and such a rich dreaming of the gods and heaven, still
ing the delicate taste of everything on of- culture of food and drink and worship, singing, still dancing.
fer. Every combination, up to the diner’s celebrated for ages, the Newars are cul-
imagination provides a unique tingle on tural standouts when it comes to feasting.
Where to get your hands on Samay Baji -
one’s taste buds. The musky taste of woh, Newari cuisine with its unique taste, pe- • Wunjala Moskva, Naxal, Kathmandu
the crunchy beaten rice, the spicy meat, culiar cooking style and natural spices has • Patan De Café, Mangal Bazaar, Patan
the fiery aaila and all the other diverse always been popular with Nepalese. For all • Kwalku Kitchen, Patan
feels of the different items makes eating of you out there who have yet to experi- • Layeku Restaurant, Patan Durbar Square
• Newa Lahana, Kirtipur
this dish feel like an adventure in itself. ence Newari gustatory delicacies, there are
Chatamari is another popular dish Bhuti is a very simple vegetable dish Lava and Palu are garlic and ginger Mushya is fried black soya bean
served as a part of Samay baji. Although consisting of boiled beans that are respectively. These ingredients are not which adds a darker color and more
many variations of this dish are sautéed with salt and spices. The mild mashed and mixed into any other item crunchiness to the Samay baji. It
available, the one here is the most basic taste of dish compliments the whole set. as in the case of most cuisine. Here, represents the pancha tatwa - air.
one. Grounded rice is mixed with water the ginger and garlic are cut into small Bhuti is a very simple vegetable dish
and cooked on a flat pan in the shape of pieces and then lightly fried and served. consisting of boiled and salted beans.
a very thin cake. They blend in to spice things up.


70 | ADVENTUREINTRO www.nextyatra.com
Paragliding
The desire to spread wings and take off has been long associated with
freedom. Paragliding might be the best answer yet that man has come
up with towards this dream.
Text by Yesha Malla

Photos Courtesy: AVIA CLUB NEPAL

www.nextyatra.com adventureintro | 71
L
eonardo da Vinci, the great 15th currents. The pilot lays the canopy out on
For once you have tasted flight, century artist and inventor who had the ground, puts on the harness, launch-
You will walk the earth with your dedicated so many years delving es by running down a slope, and quietly
eyes turned skyward, into the mysteries of flight and sketched glides down to the landing area below.
many plans for flying machines, would With the right conditions and experience,
For there you have been, have appreciated the simple yet elegant it’s also possible to make flights where one
And there you long to return. idea of gliding through the air with a gains altitude and flies for many miles and
piece of fabric forming a canopy overhead many hours.
to increase air drag. Paragliding, consid-
ered both a recreational and a competitive Needless to say, Nepal enjoys its fair
-Leonardo da Vinci sport, is a basic form of free flight that will share of paragliding enthusiasts. After all,
delight and excite the most adventurous people paraglide not only for the exhila-
of thrill seekers and make the dream of ration and the sense of adventure, but to
man to soar the skies like birds come true. enjoy the scenery and nature with a bird’s
eye point of view. And where better to
Paragliding owes its origins to parachutes, glimpse a bit of heaven, with azure skies,
for paragliders are simply parachutes that snow-white mountain peaks, clear waters
allow us to glide through the air and not in lakes and frothing and gurgling rivers
descent vertically. Paragliding evolved than Nepal? The best place to paraglide is
from skydivers flying their parachutes off the Annapurna region in Pokhara, where
small hills in eastern Montana in the late paragliding already enjoys immense pop-
seventies and climbers in the French Alps ularity and many agencies offer the best of
using ram-air skydiving canopies to make paragliding adventures.
safe and efficient descents from peaks
after ascending technical routes. People The micro-climate of Pokhara valley
realized there was a whole new challenge makes it an ideal area for flying, with
in prolonging the distance and duration far more constant conditions than the
of such flights if one could find and loiter Kathmandu valley. There are several
in areas of rising air like the hang gliders sites around Phewa lake but the most ac-
did. In September 1965, David introduced cessible is Sarangkot. A view point 700m
‘slope soaring’ as a summer activity for ski above Pokhara, it is unique in that it has
resorts. NASA originated the term ‘para- a road running to the top. With the lake
glider’ in the early 1960s, and ‘paragliding’ 2000ft below, the mountains behind, and
was first used in the early 1970s to describe the unlimited potential for cross country
foot-launching of gliding parachutes. flying out and returns, this has quickly be-
come the main site for the area, and many
Today’s paraglider is a free-flying foot- pilots have based themselves in Pokhara
launched ram-air airfoil canopy, flown for the season, flying from this mountain
and landed with no other energy than alone. There are an abundance of other
from the wind, gravity, and the pilot’s sites around the valley such as Dhikie
muscle power, who sits in a harness sus- Danda, Galem, Sirkot, Tansen, Bandipur
pended below a fabric wing. Paragliders all of which can be connected by air from
combine the light weight and safety of Sarangkot.
sport parachutes with the convenience,
low cost, and soaring capability of hang Gliding is a weather dependent sport and
gliders. It gets lift from the wind and sun, the flying season in Nepal commences
providing a way to soar along a ridge or to from mid October until the beginning of
rise in the warm air of invisible, thermal May with the clearest and more favorable
people paraglide not only for the

exhilaration and the sense of adventure, but
to enjoy scenery and nature with a bird’s eye
point of view.

72 | adventureintro www.nextyatra.com
Turning time
Ready for run-up
weather for mountain views in the months

of November, December, and January. No
previous experience is required as quali-
fied pilots provide a short briefing before
launching, so anyone can paraglide, and paragliding is perfectly safe in the hands of
can fully trust pilots for one of the most
exciting journeys of their lives. For the be- trained professionals; it is only as safe or
ginner there are tandem flights where the dangerous as the pilot makes it.
passenger gets to fly in front of a trained
pilot in complete safety. Both the pilot Panorama flights are available for a sight- and spiraling in the air, with maneuvers
and the passenger have their own harness seeing of three of the highest mountains such as the “Helicopter” “SAT” “Back-fly”
which is attached to each other and the of the world, Dhaulagiri, Annapurna and “Tumble” and “Wingover”.
wing. The more experienced paragliders Manaslu.
are usually allowed by companies to fly on Paragliding is often viewed as a higher-risk
their own after a small test. Midday Cloud buster flights are more sport than it actually is. But part of the ex-
thrilling as paragliders thermal higher and citement of paragliding is how difficult and
Adventure companies in Nepal offer many higher up above Sarangkot and land by the dangerous it looks; after all, you’re hover-
paragliding options. Those who want to lake after a enjoyable ride of half an hour. ing in midair and the ground appears to be
travel through the country via paragliding Cross-country flights follow a trail to the staring up hungrily at you as you fly. But
for multiple days can be given a few days north of Pokhara towards the big moun- paragliding is perfectly safe in the hands
training course for cross-country gliding. tains to travel from one valley to another of trained professionals; it is only as safe
This type of travel program can last for a in duration of an hour. The most thrilling or dangerous as the pilot makes it. While
few days or weeks if desired and makes for option is Acrobatic Flying, for the biggest paragliding one must make sure that all
a unique way to travel through Nepal and shot of adrenaline, where acro pilots, in the flying equipments including gliders,
see different towns that many travelers the mere space of 10-20 minutes take pas- harness, helmets, reserve parachute and
do not get the chance to see. Annapurna sengers on a wild rollercoaster ride looping other essential safety gears are top of the

www.nextyatra.com adventureintro | 73
Exploring the forests and trails
Aerial view of paddy field next to phewa lake
line and constantly checked for reliability

at all conditions. Landing at the bank of Phewa lake.
Nonetheless, there many risks of injury for

the reckless or ill-prepared. However good • The safe pilot will not fly at sites that Besides rafting and bungee jumping, para-
equipment, proper training, and most im- pose an unreasonable challenge to his/ gliding is the most exhilarating and popular
portantly mature judgment make the sport her flying skills. extreme sport in the world. People come
safe. General safety precautions include in droves to paraglide and experience the
• The safe pilot will not be influenced by
pre-flight checks, helmets, harnesses with winds beneath their feet. If you would like
the possibly negative examples set by
back protection (foam or air-bag), reserve to watch the sunset from a comfortable
others.
parachutes, and careful pre-launch obser- seat in the air, supported by the buoy-
vation of other pilots in the air to evaluate • The safe pilot will only fly on days in ant evening air with prime views of Lake
conditions. which the weather is conducive to safe Phewa and mountains then paragliding
flight. Turbulence in all its forms is is for you for it is the simplest and most
The safety of the sport is directly influ- enemy #1 for a flying paraglider wing. serene way to fulfill man’s oldest dream
enced by the skill and sense of the pilot. Because paragliders have no solid sup- -- free flight! Even though mishaps and ac-
Given that equipment failure of prop- port, their shape (and ability to fly) can cidents can occur due to faulty equipment
erly certified paragliding equipment can be ruined by an errant down draft or the or unfortunate lack of judgment in the pi-
be considered a non-issue, it is accurate like. Therefore, turbulence or conditions lot’s part or plain bad luck, if you dream of
to say that paragliding can be a very safe conducive to turbulence generation is a flying not in stuffy airplanes or noisy com-
sport. The individual pilot is the ultimate primary factor in determining whether pact helicopters but like the kingly eagles,
indicator of his or her personal safety level. the weather is safe. then do not limit yourself in fear of could
However if the following safety measures be or might be’s. Soar free!
• Paragliding is only done in good weather.
are taken and the general rules of para-
For paragliding, it is best to be prepared
gliding are taken into consideration then
with strong shoes and a windproof jacket. suggested paragliding operators
it is safe to say that the only injury that
If sensitive to motion sickness it is recom- • AVIA CLUB NEPAL
will take place is minor injuries such as
mended to take some sort of non-drowsy www.aviaclubnepal.com
sprains and bruises.
medicine well before the flight. • Blue Sky Paragliding
www.paragliding-nepal.ch
• Sunrise Paraglider
If you would like to watch the sunset from a www.sunrise-paragliding.com
comfortable seat in the air, supported by the • Frontier
www.nepal-paragliding.com
buoyant evening air with prime views of Phewa • Annapurna Paraglider
lake and mountains then paragliding is for you. • Para Nova

74 | HOLIDAYDESTINATION www.nextyatra.com
You haven’t lived till you’ve been to
the city of life
| Artificial and natural beauty to knock your socks off. |

| Activities and thrills to stop your heart and blow your mind. |
| Sights and shows to dazzle your eyes. |
Hong Kong may be small in size, but it’s a tourist destination jackpot; almost any of Hong Kong’s districts can
be designated as one. There are that many places to see within these 1,104 square kilometers. So, keeping in
mind a holiday experience, here are the nine Hong Kong destinations you don’t want to miss.
Text by Darshan Shakya
The Peak OCEAN PARK

Opened in 1977 on the southern
side of Hong Kong Island, Ocean
Park features rides, exhibits
and conservation facilities. Visit
some of Asia’s rarest animals
at the ‘Amazing Asian Animals’
exhibit. Enjoy the thrill of SkyFair,
a huge helium-filled balloon
soaring more than 100 metres
into the sky. Immerse yourself in
a fantastic voyage on the Ocean
Express: the latest quick, smooth
and thrilling way to travel from
the Ocean Park Waterfront to the
excitement at the Summit.
If you just thought of a snow Road. The Lions View Point Symphony of lights
capped mountain, think again. Pavilion and the viewing terrace This spectacular multimedia laser beams and searchlights
Hong Kong’s Victoria Peak at the Peak Galleria, as well as display, already named the performing a stunning,
is not a cold, uninhabited the Peak Tower Sky Terrace are “World’s Largest Permanent Light unforgettable spectacle
geographical feature: it’s a excellent viewing spots as well. and Sound Show” by Guinness synchronised to music and
tourism hotspot, bustling with As for shopping…well that World Records, has been further narration that celebrates the
seven million visitors a year. depends entirely on the tourist’s expanded to include more than energy, spirit and diversity of
What makes this place one of budget! 40 buildings on both sides of Hong Kong.
the most popular tourist sites? Victoria Harbour.
One more recommendation for For best view, we recommend
First, the jaw –dropping view
the Peak-bound tourist: do not The show creates an all-round taking a harbor cruise.
of the surrounding city skyline,
miss out on Madame Tussauds; vision of coloured lights,
the world-famous Victoria
Hong Kong , open from 10 am to
Harbour and Kowloon, towering
10 pm daily. This one-of-a-kind
skyscrapers and peaceful green
wax museum offers visitors an
hillsides. Second, two major
unprecedented multitimedia
leisure and shopping centres, the
experience.
Peak Tower and the Peak Galleria
are situated nearby, adjacent
to each other. And third, the
famous Peak tram system to get
you there. For great continuous
unfolding vistas, we recommend
taking the Peak Circle Walk or
going directly to the Lugard Peak Tower


76 | : HOLIDAYDESTINATION www.nextyatra.com
Hong Kong
Disneyland
The name speaks for itself, but
we’d like to add a little more.
Anyone visiting the Hong Kong
Disneyland Resort will have
magical journeys through four
themed lands, namely Main street
U.S.A., Fantasyland, Adventureland
and Tomorrowland. Plus, two
Disney-style hotels offer a
diverse range of food at various
restaurants in the park. And of
course, specialty stores sell Disney
souvenirs in each themed land
and at the two hotels.
Avenue ofStars Ngong Ping 360 Hong Kong

Hong kong is known as the
Hollywood of the East. This place Wetland Park
is a tribute to that. Featuring
commemorative plaques,
handprints of movie celebrities,
descriptive milestones, kiosks
with movie memorabilia, a
towering Hong Kong Film Awards
statuette, and a life-size statue
of Bruce Lee as well as fantastic
views into the Victoria Harbor
[Symphony of Lights included]
and the Hong Kong skyline, this is
one spot you don’t want to miss.
After the initial 25 minute cable with the show “The monkey’s
Markets ride, three major attractions
await the tourist. Witness the
tale.” Experience a birds-eye-
view of the deep blue sea and
Home to a stunning array of
wildlife, this manmade wetland
for your shopping pleasure transition of Siddhartha Gautam the lush green mountainside is a world class ecotourism
into Gautam Buddha in “Walking underneath your feet with the facility aimed at promoting
with Buddha.” Enjoy the antics glass-bottomed cable car ride, green tourism, education on
of the three monkey friends, The Crystal Cabin. We especially environmental protection and
as they travel on a journey of recommend the last one: the wetland conservation. If you love
greed, gluttony and friendship thrills are unbelievable. nature, you’ll adore this place.
Jumbo Kingdom
Tired from all that touring? the Jumbo can accommodate
Stomach rumbling from all that around 2300 people at a time, and
sight seeing? How about dinner – is one of the world’s largest floating
Live it up, then shop till you drop. Chinese royalty style? Presenting restaurant. Today, the restaurant
But where? There’s a plethora the Jumbo Floating Restaurant: a has been renovated and goes by
of markets in this ‘small’ tourist truly unique restaurant, designed the name Jumbo Kingdom: it is
destination: the Western market, like a classic Chinese palace, now not only a restaurant, but a
the Stanley Market and Murray excelling in the preparation of modern complex of fine dining,
House, Cheung Sha Wan Road seafood for discerning diners. shopping, sightseeing and cultural
Fashion Street, the Ladies’ Market, Situated in Aberdeen harbour, attractions.
Temple Street Night market,
Jade Market and Jade Street,
Yuen Po Street Bird Garden /
The Hong Kong experience GEtting there
Flower Market / Goldfish Market is unforgettable. And almost Quite a number of airlines are available for your journey to
and more! Shopper’s heaven or Hong Kong: Nepal Airlines and Dragon Airlines fly directly
budget nightmare? Each of these indescribable. We can only sum up to Hong Kong more than thrice a week, whereas other
airlines offer connecting flights. Included in the more
markets is worth checking out this experience with the official Hong popular connecting flights are China Southern Airlines(via
– so much that ranking is near Guangzhou), China Eastern Airlines (via Kunming),
impossible. Kong slogan, Thai Airlines (via Bangkok) and Singapore Airlines (via
Singapore).
Hong Kong – Live it. Love it.


78 | globaltreasure www.nextyatra.com
petra The Rose Red City
Hidden behind an almost

impenetrable wall of mountains
lies what has come to be
known as the treasure of the
ancient world. Getting there
may seem difficult, but it’s
well worth the effort. As a site
dedicated to heritage says
about Petra - “there is nothing
in the world quite like it.” It was
a city designed to strike wonder
into the hearts of all those that
entered it.
Text by Darshan Shakya

Photo Courtesy Dennis G. Jarvis
Turkey
cyprus
syria
lebanon
mediterranean sea
israel iraq
Petra is considered the most famous and massive architecture and ingenious
gorgeous site in Jordan located about 262 complex of dams and water channels,
palestine
jordan
km south of Amman and 133 km north of Petra is now a UNESCO World Heritage
petra Thailand
Laos
Aqaba. It is the legacy of the Nabataeans, Site and one of the new seven wonders of
Angkor Wat
egypt Cambodia an industrious Arab people who settled in the world that charms visitors from all over
saudi arabia
southern Jordan more than 2000 years the globe.
Phnom Penh
Vietnam
red
sea ago. Admired then for its refined culture,

www.nextyatra.com : Globaltreasure | 79
history
Petra’s story begins from 10,000 BC when small
human settlements became its first inhabitants.
Petra’s major inhabitants, the Nabataeans, settled
in this place during the 6th to 4th millennium A good view of the Theatre, built by
BC. During the next four hundred years, their do- the Nabataeans and expanded by
the Romans.
minion spread as far north as Damascus and their
capital city was beautified with splendid temples,
tombs and many hundreds of freestanding residen-
tial and commercial buildings (the less substantial
houses and stores have long since crumbled). The
earliest tombs and temples, dating from 300 BC,
show Egyptian and Assyrian characteristics, and lost to the human world. The earliest tombs
with the Greek and later Roman influences the
Nabataeans developed their own distinctive ar- The tale of its rediscovery is akin to a Hollywood and temples,
chitectural style. Petra continued to prosper as the movie.
Romans carved many buildings as well as a great dating to 300 BC,
theater capable of holding 3000 spectators. While A young Swiss adventurer, Johann Burckhardt, was
the political and economic power was completely slowly making his way from Damascus to Cairo by
a little known and dangerous land route. Fluent in
show Egyptian
in the hands of the Romans, the Nabataeans con-
tinued to adhere to the practices of their own re- Arabic and posing as a Muslim traveler, he heard
tales from desert Bedouins of the extraordinary ru-
and Assyrian
ligion.
ins of an ancient city hidden in the remote Sharra
All these structures were laboriously cut into the Mountains. No European had seen the fabled city,
characteristics
soft sandstone rock that would have crumbled or lived to tell about it, and Burckhardt recognized
long ago if not for the fact that this region of Jordan that he would have to resort to deceit to gain en-
and with the
receives very little rain. trance. Pretending that he intended to sacrifice a
goat at the shrine of Aaron, Burckhardt persuaded
Greek and later
However, the magnificent city of Petra had disaster two Bedouins to escort him along the Valley of
in store for it. First, having fallen under the control Moses and toward the shrine of Aaron. There is
Roman influences
of Islam, the commercial importance of the city only one reasonably safe path leading to the shrine
plummeted. Then, a series of earthquakes in the from Wadi Musa and, luckily for Burckhardt, it
the Nabataeans
7th and 8th centuries destroyed many of the cities passed directly through the ruins of Petra.
in the region, further weakening the agricultural developed their
and commercial infrastructure. Neglected, aban- Thus, the magnificent city of Petra was rediscov-
doned to time and the elements, Petra was now ered. own distinctive
architectural style.
Sites to see
Frankly, the city of Petra is just too beautiful to describe. No, really.
Still, out of the several monuments, these four sites we recommend
the reader NOT to miss.
The Treasury
The kilometer long, cool, and gloomy chasm leads of all. Its elaborately carved facade is alive with a
to (or Siq) a long narrow gorge whose steeply rising cast of Nabataean deities and mythological char-
sides all but obliterate the sun. It leads to Petra opens acters - equestrian figures of the Dioscuri (Castor
into a natural square dominated by this magnifi- and Pollux) whose role in the Greek myths was to
cent structure. The intricately carved facade glows guide the souls of the dead to the Elysian Fields,
in the dazzling sun, its architectural splendor pre- dancing Amazons wielding axes, winged Victories,
sented in all its glory, at least all that remains of it. Medusa heads, eagles and various mythical crea-
Perhaps this is the most famous Petra monument tures - all funerary symbols.

80 | : Globaltreasure www.nextyatra.com
1. The Treasury at Petra, Jordan

2. The facade, 40 m high, carved
out from the sandstone cliff
wall,
3. The Urn Tomb which has
an immense courtyard and
main chamber giving an air of
importance.
4. Corinthian Tomb, mostly
damaged by earthquakes
1 2
The Treasury’s original purpose remains elusive the sanctuary, complete with ritual ablution basin.
- except that it was not a treasury. Some scholars It could also have been a memorial mausoleum
believe it was a royal tomb, with the king’s burial some say, perhaps for the cult of the defied Obodas
place in the small chamber at the back; others, a I. Whatever it was, it was built magnificently and
temple, pointing to its temple-like facade and the stands today as one of the most wondrous monu-
lack of burial holes. For them the rear chamber was ments of the world.
The Royal Tombs

Of the 500 plus tombs in this magnificent city, high Palace Tomb and the badly eroded Sextus
these tombs are the most impressive. The difficult- Florentinus Tomb give a wonderfully ironic and
to-reach Urn tomb, the small multi-colored Silk beautiful use of the dead.
Tomb, the eclectic Corinthian Tomb, the 3 storey
3 4

www.nextyatra.com : Globaltreasure | 81
The High Place of Sacrifice

Petra’s High Place of Sacrifice is perhaps the best north, east and south sides facing the altar plat-
preserved of all such sacred places of the ancient form, on which animal sacrifices were made.
world. It may have been created by the Nabatae-
ans, as the high quality of the stone work would These sacrifices represented the renewal of the
indicate, or it may date back to their predecessors close relationship between man and his gods and
- the Edomites. The rock was leveled to form a blood was, of course, a symbol of life.
shallow courtyard with benches (triclinia) on the
1, 2. Across the street where the

people are gathered is the
start of the climb that goes to
the High Place of Sacrifice.
3, 4. Al -Deir Monastery
Al-deir - the monastery

Al-Deir itself is cut into the mountainside but not terminating in the vast open area in front. A short
dominated by it. One really needs to see a human way beyond, one is rewarded by magnificent views
figure at its base to appreciate the huge scale of the from a new perspective in the direction of the Wadi
largest facade in Petra. The doorway alone is over Araba to the west. It is a tiring climb, but thanks
8 m high. The temple/tomb is devoid of decora- to the other monuments to be seen en route, the
tion, but is striking in its simplicity and magnitude. mountain scenery and splendid views, the climb is
It was an extremely important site for pilgrimages definitely worthwhile.
with its carefully orchestrated processional way
This sandstone
marvel has made
it to the new
Seven Wonders of
the World and it’s
not difficult to see
why.
Petra sights are at their best in the early morning and late afternoon. When the sun warms the mul-
ticolored stones, one can view the majesty of Petra as it was seen first when discovered. At these
times of day, it feels as if one has walked into a dramatic scene from a movie.
Petra is always breathtaking, and never to be forgotten. This sandstone marvel has made it to the
new Seven Wonders of the World and it’s not difficult to see why. Still, one has to see it to believe
it and see it one must.



84 | perfecttaKeAWAYS www.nextyatra.com
Khukuri
Uniquely Nepali
Text by Prasanna Pandey
P
“ arashuram Thapa of Sindhupal- sword on my waist, so he went disguised as This excerpt is from Dibya Upadesh, an
chowk had invited me to come and a gaine singer with fishhooks in hand and autobiographical account narrated by
attack Nepal, but at the same time a sarangi (a traditional stringed instrument King Prithivi Narayan Shah, the unifier
he had sent his younger brother west of played like a violin) under his arm and a and founder of modern Nepal. Dibya Up-
Gorkha with the instructions to gather a 2-4 dharni (ancient Nepali measuring unit) adesh mostly relates the ideas and stories
hundred-thousand by inciting the Baisi- Mahseer sahar fish, and as the troops in as told by the king on how he was able
Chaubisi states to attack Gorkha from Thapa’s camp rested to eat their morning to unify more than fifty independent city
behind, and I learned that they were quar- rice, Jhangal Gurung sought an opportune states and give an identity to a nation of
tered in Hatiya of Pokhara. And I asked moment and decapitated Thapa. After this rugged Himalayan Republic in the
them – “Who among you can go and kill thusly securing the rear and ridding of all mid eighteenth century.
him?” No one could find a person suitable, obstacles by taking in hand the people of
so I said—”Perhaps Jhangal Gurung can,” the east and the west, I conquered Nepal.” Prior to the use of firearms in the early 18th
and sent for him and gave him the short- century, the Gorkhali soldiers or Gurkha

www.nextyatra.com perfecttakeaways | 85
History of Khukuri Through the Gurkha

The origin of Khukuri is speculated to
be derived from the ancient cavalry warriors, the uniquely
sword of Macedonians called the
Machira. The troops of Alexander the tapered blade of the
Great wielded the Machira when it
invaded Northwest India in the 4th cen- Khukuri has gained
tury BC and that particular technique of
sword making is believed to have been popularity all over the
adapted by local black smiths. Another
speculation about its origin arises world and it is as much
from local history with historians who
believe that Khukuri had been in use in
a part of our identity
the Kirat Dynasty as far back as during
the 7th century and with the Malla
as it is a mere fighting
kings in the 13th century. The oldest
known Khukuri in Nepal is on display
apparatus.
at the National Museum in Chhauni. It
belonged to Drabya Shah, the founder
of the kingdom of Gorkha and is dated
1627 AD.
warriors were armed with Kora (also re-

ferred to in old texts as Khura or Korna). Making of an Ancient War
It was a short sword with blades of varying
length and width. This Khura was believed Apparatus
to be the true native weapon of Nepal and
There are two distinct processes involved ened and polished. The handle is prepared
was mostly worn across the back or on the
in Khukuri making – the forging of the by shaping and filing animal horns or hard
left side with the sling draped above the
blade and the making of the scabbard or wood and the tapered edge of the blade is
chest or over the left shoulder. It was used
the sheath. The blade is mostly made with inserted into the handle and fixed in place.
as an auxiliary weapon and was stuck in the
high grade carbon steel and the scabbard The sheath is also prepared using wood or
fighters sash directly in front of his body.
out of buffalo hide. The handle of the buffalo hide and it also involves a similar
The indomitable spirit of the Gurkha war-
Khukuri can be made out of either buf- process of measuring, shaping and polish-
riors and their fearless thirst for victory
falo horn or any type of hard wood. The ing to make it worthy of a finely polished
along with their valor in battle gave a new
blade is forged in a coal furnace with re- blade. Finally, the blade is rubbed gently
meaning to the art of war in this rugged
peated blows from a hammer on an anvil with oil and stored in the scabbard to com-
mountainous terrain particularly in the
to give it shape. A notch (kaudi) is drafted plete the handmade process. The scabbard
Anglo – Nepal war in 1814 which greatly
onto the blade and it has a practical pur- of each Khukuri holds two small knives
impressed the British and they started re-
pose of catching an opponent’s blade dur- called Karda and Chakmak. Karda is a
cruiting Gurkha warriors into their army.
ing attack. The tempering of the blade is sharp knife used to hone the master blade
Through these Gurkha warriors, the
a delicate process and is done by pouring and for small cutting jobs. The Chakmak,
uniquely tapered blade of the Khukuri has
cold water from a kettle onto the hot blade being rough is used as a flint stone to start
gained popularity all over the world and it
along the cutting edge to give it strength. fires.
is as much a part of our identity as it is a
After tempering the steel, it is filed, sharp-
mere fighting apparatus.

86 | perfecttakeaways www.nextyatra.com
The Khukuri as a Souvenir

The deeply ingrained cultural and religious significance associated
with the Khukuri makes it a perfect choice for a souvenir.
A longer version of the Khukuri is often used in ritual sacrifice of ward off wild animals in the jungle and an occasional thug. The
buffaloes, goats and sheep in annual festivals. It is found in almost versatility of the Khukuri as an all purpose knife and a weapon
every Nepali home and used as a multi-purpose knife for cutting for security makes it an ideal possession for households and
grass, chopping wood, peeling vegetables, slaughtering game and travelers alike.
skinning. It also provides security in its capacity as a weapon to
Nepal Police
Through generations, Khukuris have Dhankute Horn type khukuri is the
gained popularity as the national Khukuri originated in authentic Khukuri used
weapon of Nepal and its production Dhankuta of eastern Nepal. by Nepal Police and the
has been localized to districts such as It has a beautiful scabbard Armed Police Force. The
Bhojpur, Dhankuta, Salyan; Bhojpure evocative of nationalism since it shape of the blade is similar to
khukuri being the most popular and incorporates hand inlayed brass Bhojpure Khukuri and it slightly
well recognized. Bhojpur is an eastern depictions of Nepal’s National heavier than the one used by the
city in Nepal well known for its Khukuri symbols such as the national flag, Nepali Army. The sheath is made
craftsmanship. Bhojpure khukuri national bird (Lophophorus), from hide covered by cotton-wood.
is not a military issue but is heavier Crossed Khukuri and national fish The blade is 9 inches long with 4
than the standard blade Khukuri. The (Asla) and the king’s crown. The inch handle that is made up of rose
blade is 10 or 11 inches long with a 5 scabbard is made up of wood or wood. It weighs about 700 grams.
inch handle. The handle is made up of horn and the handle is made up
buffalo horn or wood and the scabbard of horn, wood or brass.
is made up of buffalo leather. There are
often engravings of dragons, temples or Cheetlange Special
figurines of gods and goddesses on the originates from a village by the
blade and weighs about 750 grams. same name and is a special issue
Khukuri with narrow blade and
a wide grip base. The blade is used for
World War II or general cutting and light to moderate
Dehradoone Khukuri chopping. Kothimora Khukuri is a special
originated in Nepal but was later used khukuri made for retiring Gurkha or
The British by the Indian and British Gurkha British Army officers. It is manufactured
Service No. 1 is the army. Before World War II as a memento and has an especially
standard khukuri which is issued it used to be forged in designed scabbard of silver filigree and
to the Gurkha soldiers in the British Dehradoon in India. velvet background matching the color of
Army and it has garnered fame all over This type of the regiment. The regimental badges and
the world. The Khukhuri is used by the Khukuri is slightly the crown is mounted in the
soldier as a self-guard or in battle. It is bigger, heavier and more scabbard as well. The
mandatory for British Gurkha soldiers, curved than the standard blade is found
Singapore Police and Gorkha Reserve issue. The blade is in varying
Unit in Brunei to carry this Khukuri. The forged from the steel lengths – the 10 inch
jungle or the pri type Khukuri is used used in railway tracks. The standard Kothimora,
for jungle warfare by the Gurkhas. The handle is similar to Bhojpure the 11 inch Gurkha Badge
shape and size of this Khukuri is similar Khukuri and the case is made Kothimora and the 14 inch
to Service No. 1 but it is unpolished up of Buffalo hide. The handle Royal Kothimora. The Royal
standard-sized Khukuri. Buffalo horn and is made out of aluminium, brass, Kothimora used to be occasionally
hide are used for making handle and case horn or wood. This Khukuri is 16 inches presented to royal families in Nepal
respectively. It weighs about 700 grams long with 5 inch long handle and weighs and Britain and is amongst the most
with scabbard. about 750 grams. precious and desirable of all Khukuris.

www.nextyatra.com perfecttakeaways | 87
Variations of Khukuri
Name Name Name Name

Chitlange Khukuri Dhankute Khukuri British Service No. 1 Jungle Khukuri
Size Size Size Size
13 inch blade 5 - 18 inch blade 10.5 inch blade Same as british service no. 1
5.5 handle 3 - 10 inch handle 5 inch handle Price Range
Price Range Price Range Price Range rs. 2,000 to rs. 2,800
Rs. 2,200 to rs. 3,000 For 5 inch Rs. 1,600 rs. 2,000 to rs. 3,000 Primary Use
Primary Use For 18 inch Rs. 6,000 Primary Use Training Purpose in the jungle.
Cutting, Showpiece, Skinning and Primary Use Standard Khukuri, Ceremonial Weight
many other use Primarily Decorative Purpose In British parade 700 gms
Weight Weight Weight
900 gms Depends on size 700 gms
Name Name Name Name

Bhojpure Khukuri Nepal Police World War II Kothimora
Size Size Size Size
10.5 blade 9 inch blade 11 inch blade 10, 11 or 14 inch blade
5 inch handle 5 inch handle 5 inch handle 5 inch handle
Price Range Price Range Price Range Price Range
Rs. 2,500 to rs. 3,500 rs. 1,500 to rs. 2,300 rs. 2,500 to rs. 3,500 rs. 14,000 to rs. 25,000
Primary Use Primary Use Primary Use Primary Use
Normal General Use Police Use Used in WW II. As a Memento
Weight Weight Weight Weight
750 gms 700 gms 750 gms Depends on size
Availabile at
The versatility in types and uses of this NEPALESE KHUKURI HOUSE PVT. LTD
multi-purpose knife make it an ideal Amrit Marg, Thamel-29
www.nepalesekhukuri.com
souvenir that also has many practical
Also available at:
uses. Khukuri House
Sat Ghumti, Thamel, Kathmandu
It can also be regarded as a symbol of national heritage www.khukuriblades.com
and rich culture that defines life in Nepal. A handmade
Khukuri is an affordable item that is evocative of all that Gurkha Khukuri/Khukri House
Patan, Lalitpur,Nepal
is uniquely Nepal. www.gurkhakhukurihouse.com

88 | festivalwatch www.nextyatra.com
A Beautiful Disaster
Text by Utsav Shakya | Photos by Rocky Prajapati
T
he Bisket Jatra of Bhaktapur in New Year celebrations takes place with the the festival so popular amongst locals as
Kathmanu Valley is infamous for grand and a bit rowdy Bisket Jatra. Who re- well as visitors who come to this idyllic
the inevitable fights that break out ally wants a sober uneventful festival any- town to just watch the chariot make its
every year at this popular festival. This fes- ways? customary rounds or maybe even get into
tival is celebrated on the first day of the the crowd and get an experience of a life
Nepali New Year and is observed as an of- Bisket commemorates the Hindu epic, the time.
ficial holiday. Around two thousand years battle of Mahabharata, with the wooden
ago, king Bikramaditya started a Nepalese pole symbolizing the victory of good over The chariots parade the numerous idols of
solar calendar. This is still the one that Ne- evil. After two days, images of the Hindu gods and goddesses between the sub-cities
pali people follow today to keep up with god Bhairab and his female counterpart of Tigani and Nagadesh. The chariots are
the seasons and the many, many festivals Bhadra are enshrined in two large, in- made solely of wood and jute rope. No
that punctuate the year. This calendar is tricately decorated chariots and pulled metal is used in such a huge structure,
known as the Bikram Sambat. In Bhakta- through crowds of cheering on-lookers. every part of which represents a specific
pur, 15 kilometers east of Kathmandu, the This pulling of the chariot is what makes religious deity. On the eve of the Nepali

www.nextyatra.com festivalwatch | 89

90 | festivalwatch www.nextyatra.com

www.nextyatra.com festivalwatch | 91
An ancient
festival, there
is something
very pure
about
the entire
celebration
right from
its use of a
chariot made
with ancient
methods to the
pulling of the
chariot around
town.
New Year, such a chariot with idols from numer- the coming year. This festival goes on for nine days.
ous temples around Tigani together with a huge A tall wooden ceremonial pole called yosin is also
procession of devotees pulling it is moved towards erected in one of the main squares during the fes-
Nagadesh. The chariot carries idols of Nil Barahi. tival. Amidst all the chaos, a part of the procession
Another similar chariot is also made ready carrying parading around Bode is the musical Dhimey Ba-
the idols of Ganesh in Nagadesh. The Sindur Jatra ja-playing ensemble. Consisting mainly of senior,
also called the Abir Jatra is started in Bode as the seasoned musicians, the troupe may also sometimes
two chariots carrying all the idols of the area are make room for new members. Playing for this festi-
paraded all around all the temples there. val is a treat to any Dhimey Baja player.
An ancient festival, there is something very pure At the lead of it all, moving in a trance is a man with
about the entire celebration right from its use of a his tongue pierced with an alarmingly large piece
chariot made with ancient methods to the pulling of metal. This tongue piercing ceremony is what
of the chariot around town. Red vermillion, a sign starts off the chariot in its journey on the eve of the
of purity and prosperity colors the air as the now 1st of Baisakh, the first day of the year. The proces-
huger procession starts the next journey. Before the sion ends at Tigne on the 2nd of Baisakh where the
chariots are pulled by the devotees, Chhyang - local chariot that was brought to Nagadesh is returned.
liquor made of out rice is served all around. Tipsy
or drunk youth then race through the narrow streets Fights usually break out during the festival, the ine-
Bode pulling at the ropes tied to the chariot. briated chariot pullers are a moody lot. Standoffs
with the police also turn into a full blown riot some-
When the chariot reaches the center of the town, times. But amidst it all, there’s a sense of calm and a
a tug-of-war between the inhabitants of the two quiet that once can’t see but only feel, once you’re
neighborhoods takes place. The winners of the tug- in the middle of things at Bisket Jatra.
of-war are considered blessed with good fortune for



94 | events&tips www.nextyatra.com
Places and Faces of Nepal-

Roles of the Indian
Photo exhibition
Film Heroine
“Explore Nepal, Explore Life”
When: 10th April -2010 The Changing Ethos 1957-2005
Organizer: Tourism Development Endeavors When: 14th April- 18th April
(TUDE) , Baneshwor, Kathmandu, Nepal Where: Nepal Tourism Board-NTB
ICIMOD Photo Contest –
Where: Basantapur, Kathmandu Description: Celebrating the changing ethos of Mountain Biodiversity
Description: An amateur photo exhibition on Indian cinema Heroines, Indian Cultural Centre in Submission
places and faces of Nepal to promote Nepal tourism collaboration with NTB, is organizing an Indian Film When: 10 May 2010
year 2011. Entries are welcomed till late of the Festival this April. Organizer: International Centre for Integrated
March and are requested to contact TUDE. Contact:4412629(Passes can be collected from Indian Mountain Development (ICIMOD)
Contact:9841265165, dev.endeavors@gmail.com Cultural Centre, Bal Mandir, Naxal on 11th/12th April)
Description: With the slogan ‘Biodiversity is life.
Biodiversity is our life’, ICIMOD calls submission for
the Photo Contest on the biodiversity of the Hindu
Kush Himalayan region and its role in people’s
lives which reflects the theme for the International
Day for Biological Diversity - 22 May 2010,
God Lives ‘Biodiversity, Development and Poverty Alleviation’.
in the Contact: photocontest@icimod.org,
KIMFF 2010 Submission Himalayas http://www.icimod.org/photocontest/2010/
When: 1st April-15th August-2010
Where: Himal Association (a non for profit World Premier in
organization), Patandhoka, Lalitpur Australia
Description: The 8th edition of KIMFF is
supposed to happen from 9-12 Dec 2010 and
South Asia China Trade Fair
When: 8th April- 11th April
the submission will start from the early April.
Where: Bhrikutimandap, Exhibition Hall
The detailed information on entries guidelines is When: 25th March-23rd May -2010
Description: Organized by Nepal-China
available at www.kimff.org Where: Executives Council-NCEC, to promote the South
Contact: +977 1 5542544, Melbourne: Daily from 25 March 2010 @ Greater Asian and China Trade at the same platform with
kimff@himalassociation.org Union City Cinema, 131 Russell Street, Melbourne 150 stalls exhibiting various range of trade and
Brisbane: Daily from 15 April 2010 @ Birch Carroll tourism market.
& Coyle Brisbane City Regent, 167 Queen Street Contact: 4117101
Brisbane
Sydney: Daily from 6 May 2010 @ Beverly Hill
Cinema, 447/453 King Georges Road, Beverly Hills
Description: Directed and script by Sanjay
KJC Chevrolet Concert
Srinivas, the motion film is uniquely presented Series
unfailingly, the unique aspects of Nepal, its rich When: 27th March-2010(2:30-5:00PM)
Where: KJC Moksh Auditorium, Jhamsikhel,
Chandra Surya Musical culture, it’s wonderful people and the extraordinary
Lalitpur
benevolence of nature gifted with a vision that is Description: Enjoy performances by KJC Choir,
Program-2067 both energizing and exciting.
When:17th April-2010(12:00-5:00PM) KJC Big Band & Mariano Abello Quartet and other
Where: City Hall, Pradarsani Marga, Kathmandu Contact: 0414 724 042, +61 414 724 042, great performances.
Description: Organized by Better World Family info@godlivesinthehimalayas.com, Contact: 5013554 (Free Entrance)
Nepal with the motto of “Music for Change & info@solangture.com, www.solangture.com
Development”, it supports the education for the first
school in Ramechhap. Performances by national
& international artists, Ani Choying Drolma, Kunti
Moktan, Pramod Nirwan, Paribartan and others
including dance, food festival, mart mela, fun
games drama and documentary screenings would
Art of Living course for all ages
entertain the audiences.
When: Starts every Monday
Contact:4810163, 9751005424
Where: Dil Niwas, Chhakubaku Marga-132, New
Baneshwor, Kathmandu
Description: Know Breath , Know Life -
Caucasian Chalk Circle World Expo 2010 Shanghai, No Breath, No Life. Self-development and stress
China elimination programs that empower people to face
Premiere When: May 1st – October 31st -2010 life’s challenges gracefully. These workshops equip
When:23rd March -2010, 5:30PM the participants with skills, and techniques that
Where: Shanghai, China
Where: Gurukul Theatre, Kathmandu enhance the quality of their lives.
Description: World Expo 2010 Shanghai, China
Description: Directed by Max Webster and Mia Contact: 9803039750, yes.in.nepal@gmail.com,
with the theme “Better City, Better Life” providing
Theil and translated by Bhimlal Aryal on the script www.artofliving.org.np
great example of sustainable and harmonious living
of Barlett Brecht the play is being played for the
organized under 5.28 sq.km. ( largest exhibiting
first time presenting the diverse dramatic field
area in the history) will exhibit expo’s, event and
with a range of scenes expecting audiences to be
many others . To enlist your events in this section,
entertained.
Contact:8621-22062010, Fax: 8621-22060670, mail us your details at
Contact:4810163, 9751005424
http://en.expo2010.cn/ events@traveltimes-mag.com



Travel Times :: 6th Edition (Kathmandu&#39;s World Heritage Sites)

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MAR - APR 2010 www.traveltimes-mag.

com NPR 150 | US$ 4 | INR 100

Kathmandu’s world heritage sites give great reasons for

Color Separation: CTP Nepal Pvt. Ltd

MAR - APR 2010 TIMES

TIMES MAR - APR 2010

Start traveling....with Travel Times

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“Together for Tourism”

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Second International Destination Manang 2010 to be organized

The program is set to be formally inaugu-

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Tallest statue of lord shiva set to

Air arrivals up 33 percent in February

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India, Nepal sign for Continental Airlines launches mobile boarding

The Balea Lac Hotel in Ro-

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Asian countries unite for Medical Tourism Facebook Makes Travel

Singapore Targets ITB Berlin now on

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Holi - the festival of colors! The day that people associate

Text by Yesha Malla

bathtub. The best time to raft, of course is the

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The spectacular and tricky

ering in a vain attempt to gener-

sagarmatha national park

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Spectacular Namche bazaar Tempting goodies on display at a bakery in Namche

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1. Trekkers on the way to Dughla

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Kathmandu is the rightful cultural capital of the country with

Text by Utsav Shakya

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Religious monuments such as the Swoy- budhanilkantha

ambhunath stupa or the Pashupatinath

the three Durbar Squares of the valley’s

ing architecture combined with their rich kirtipur thimi

and nature do its worst to many of these harisiddhi

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The double- The beautiful and historic temple of Changu

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image of Vishnu astride the Garuda. In front of the

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Aerial view of Pashupatinath

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MAR - APR 2010 TIMES

Travel Times :: 6th Edition (Kathmandu's World Heritage Sites)

Travel Times :: 6th Edition (Kathmandu's World Heritage Sites)