Used Bike Inspection

QUALIFICATION PROTOCOL
PROTOCOL NO. IQ.OQ.PQ.001.00
INSTALLATION, OPERATIONAL AND

PERFORMANCE QUALIFICATION OF
USED BIKES
IQ/OQ/PQ for Used Bikes

Protocol No.: IQ.OQ.PQ.001.00
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION 1: Terms of agreement .......................................................................................................... 3
1.1 TERMS ................................................................................................................................................................... 3
SECTION 2: Helpful diagrams ............................................................................................................... 4
2.1 DIAGRAMS TO HELP YOU LOCATE COMPONENTS........................................................................................................ 4
SECTION 3: INTRODUCTION ................................................................................................................. 8
3.1 PURPOSE ............................................................................................................................................................ 8
3.2 SCOPE ................................................................................................................................................................. 8
SECTION 4: General Specifications ...................................................................................................... 9
SECTION 5: Overall Appearance ......................................................................................................... 10
SECTION 6: Crash History ................................................................................................................... 11
SECTION 7: Racing or Abusive Care .................................................................................................. 13
SECTION 8: Brakes .............................................................................................................................. 15
SECTION 9: Clutch ............................................................................................................................... 17
SECTION 10: Gas Tank .......................................................................................................................... 18
SECTION 11: Seating ............................................................................................................................. 18
SECTION 12: Tires.................................................................................................................................. 19
SECTION 13: Electrical and Battery ...................................................................................................... 20
SECTION 14: Suspension ...................................................................................................................... 21
SECTION 15: Wheels .............................................................................................................................. 23
SECTION 16: Chain/Sprockets .............................................................................................................. 24
SECTION 17: Exhaust ............................................................................................................................ 25
SECTION 18: Engine/Fluids/Carburetors .............................................................................................. 25
SECTION 19: Centerstand checks (Optional) ....................................................................................... 27
SECTION 20: Service ............................................................................................................................. 27
SECTION 21: Accessories ..................................................................................................................... 27
SECTION 22: Titles and Paperwork....................................................................................................... 28
SECTION 23: Test Ride (Optional)......................................................................................................... 29
NOT FOR SALE / FREE FOR DISTRIBUTION
Filename: IQ.OQ.PQ.001.00 Used Bikes.doc Page 2 of 29


SECTION 1: TERMS OF AGREEMENT

1.1 Terms
This document was prepared by Lambda Consulting based on information from various sources. The
majority of information was taken from the “Used Motorcycle Evaluation Guide,” by Adam Glass (1998-
2010). The author of this document does not take credit for any information but has organized and compiled
information into a usable media for consumers interested in purchasing a used motorcycle. This document
is not for sale and is free for distribution with due credit. If there are any suggestions please email the author
at cool_mikel@hotmail.com.
The author takes no responsibility for the decisions made by a consumer based on the inspections
performed in this document. This document is not a legal document, nor does it replace an inspection by a
certified mechanic; this document is merely used to provide more insight into the condition of a motorcycle
for an inexperienced motorcycle buyer. The buyer is responsible for researching the specific bike model to
learn of any manufacturing defects or short-comings. The intent of this document is not to help choose a
motorcycle, but to help gauge the condition of a previously owned bike for purchase.


SECTION 2: HELPFUL DIAGRAMS

2.1 Diagrams to help you locate components








SECTION 3: INTRODUCTION
3.1 PURPOSE
3.1.1 The purpose of this document is to help consumers who are purchasing a used motorcycle to
be able to conduct a low-level inspection to more accurately gauge the vehicle‟s condition.
3.2 SCOPE
3.2.1 The following is a list of the contents included in this qualification:
i. General information: Record general motorcycle specifications
ii. Overall Appearance: Check for cleanliness and straightness.
iii. Crash history: Look for notifications or clues for crashes.
iv. Racing or abusive care: Look for notifications or clues that the motorcycle has been
raced or abused. Racing puts tremendous stress on the machinery and accelerates
wear.
v. Brakes: Ensure condition of brakes and ancillary components are in good condition.
vi. Clutch: Ensure the clutch is operating as intended without excessive wear/damage.
vii. Gas Tank: Check for internal rusting and general condition.
viii. Seating: Cosmetic and functional condition.
ix. Tires: Check current condition of tires.
x. Electrical and Battery: Ensure electrical system powers instruments and lights.
xi. Suspension: Check for leaks, straightness and dampening.
xii. Wheels: Inspect physical condition.
xiii. Chain/sprockets: Check for wear in case of required replacement.
xiv. Exhaust: Equal exhaust pressure should be attained.
xv. Engine/fluids/carburetors: Starting and idling operation of engine and carbs.
xvi. Centerstand checks: Applicable tests if a centerstand is available for bearings,
brake operation, etc.
xvii. Service: Service history and documentation.
xviii. Accessories: Extras that are included in the seller‟s package.
xix. Titles and paperwork: Clean title and correct VIN.
xx. Test-ride: If applicable, what to look for during the test run.


SECTION 4: GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
Manufacturer: _________________ VIN: _________________

Model: _________________ Owner: _________________
Year: _________________ Mileage: _________________
Color: _________________ Asking price: _________________
Reason for selling:

______________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________
Misc comments:
______________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________


SECTION 5: OVERALL APPEARANCE

Procedure Description Pass / Fail Comments
Check the overall appearance for large Numerous cracks or scratches may indicate
cracks or scratches. dropping or crashing of the bike.
Inspect any visible fasteners (metal and Gouged or stripped fasteners indicate lack of
plastic) on the fairings and major repair and improper installations. Ill-fitting
components. Fittings should not be loose or components may produce rattle or additional
have substantial gaps. wear when riding.
If something is askew this may mean the bike
Step back and sight down the centerline of
frame is twisted, something has been
the bike. Check for symmetry of the mirrors,
damaged or installed improperly. Most likely
plastic components, handlebars, etc.
the bike has been crashed hard.
Scratched fairings Bent subframe


SECTION 6: CRASH HISTORY

Look for the following:
i) deep parallel scratches on the engine
cases on plastic, particularly
above foot-peg level
ii) non-standard/different paint spots
iii) ground handlebar ends or levers
Any of these may indicate that the bike has
iv) dents in the gas tank from the
been in a substantial crash.
handlebars during a crash
v) dents and deep parallel scratches on
the exhaust pipe(s)
vi) turn-signal stalks bent/ripped off
vii) cracks in bodywork (covered by
stickers)
Check to see if the levers are of the same
style/color/make or hammered back into This may indicate the bike has been tipped
shape. Look for thin spiderweb hairline over or crashed.
cracks.
Check mirrors for bends, cracks or that the This may indicate the bike has been down
mirrors are of different style/color/make. (crashed or tipped over).
Sit on the bike, sight down the forks and
Bent forks are expensive to fix. Either is a
ensure they are straight and parallel and not
warning sign to look for other damage.
twisted or bent.
Check for non-parallel or shallow Indicates the bike was tipped over and would
cuts/scratches and shallow chips. only comprise of cosmetic damage.
Check for horizontal scratches on lower
Most likely they are the result of enthusiastic
plastic and metal parts. Ask owner about the
riders, turning hard, etc.
scratches.


Crashed brake lever Crashed gas tank
Cracked bodywork behind a sticker Broken mounting tab on frame


SECTION 7: RACING OR ABUSIVE CARE

Look for holes drilled through the head of
bolts in the following locations:
i) front brake caliper mounting bolts
ii) exhaust pipe bolts Racers safety-wire bolts and if these holes
iii) engine case bolts are present the bike has been raced at one
iv) oil/water drain bolts point during its use.
The holes should be about 1/16” and not

confused with castellated nuts.
Check tires for roughed up edges, covered

Rough edges and balled-up rubber is a sign
with ragged strips of balled-up rubber. Check
of racing. Flat/bald centers are a sign of
to see if the center of the tire is flat but the
burnouts.
sides are new.
Look for heavy duty aftermarket engine

covers (NRC, Factory, Traksport, Indicator that the bike may have been raced.
Yoshimura).
Inspect the under-side of the rear fender for a This indicates burnouts have been
thick streak of balled-up and flung off rubber. performed.
Inspect the frame for cracks (especially along

the weld lines) around the steering head, This means the bike has not been operated
engine mounts, front fairing bucket and rear with little care and has not been maintained.
subframe.


Ragged edges Aftermarket engine cover
Ragged edges Safety-wired holes Safety-wired nut


SECTION 8: BRAKES
Level may need adjustment, air bubbles may be
Squeeze the brake lever. There should be in the brake line, brake pads may need replacing,
increased resistance as the level reaches its or something is wrong with the master cylinder
final position. (worst case). Bleeding air lines is about $5 and ½
hour of labor.
Put the bike in neutral. Roll the bike forward
If the bike experiences extra resistance rolling
and gently apply the front brakes. They
after the brake is disengaged it means the brakes
should engage and move smoothly. Now
are dragging and it could mean the calipers will
release the brakes and roll the bike. The bike
require work.
should roll without any additional resistance.
Stand in front of the bike and squeeze the
brake lever hard and try to drag the bike If the bike moves there is something wrong with
towards you with the handlebars. The bike the brakes.
should not budge.
Roll the bike forward and use the rear brake.
It should engage smoothly. If the rear brakes There is a problem with the rear brake or the pad
are drum brakes, check the indicator needle requires replacing.
to ensure the pad is inside its usable range.
Engage the front brake, and then the rear

If the light doesn‟t come one, it could mean a
brake, checking to see if the brake lights
burnt bulb or possibly a new switch ($25).
illuminate for each one.
For disc brakes, there should be at least 1/8”
Pads are $25-30 a pair.
of the pad still remaining.
Inspect the rotors for cracks, grooves and
Rotors will be $150-250 each.
warpage.


Check brake fluid color through the sight

glass on the master cylinder or on the brake
fluid reservoir. Sometimes rear brake fluid is A darker than honey color or a low level means
visible under the seat/tail section or through a it‟s about time to change the fluid.
hole cut into the tail section or side fairings. It
should be a very light amber.
Inspect brake hoses for dry rot, cracks and

Brake lines are $80-150.
leaks.
Front brake system Disc brake Drum brake


SECTION 9: CLUTCH
Most owners won‟t know but a good owner
Ask the owner how many kilometers since will. If the level can move about 5/8” before
the clutch cable has been changed. the cable goes taut the adjuster probably just
needs a turn or two.
Put the bike in first gear and squeeze the
clutch all the way in and roll the bike forward.
It should feel like neutral, with possibly a little
The clutch may be a bit sticky if the bike isn‟t
more resistance. Slowly let the clutch out and
warmed up.
feel for the friction zone. Engagement should
be fairly smooth and not abrupt. Put the bike
back in neutral.
(Optional) If the bike has a hydraulic clutch
(for bigger bikes) check fluid color and level
Fluid may require change if the color is very
through the master cylinder‟s sight glass. It
dark or the level is too low.
should be light amber and within the
operating limits.
If the bike has high mileage (over 48k+) ask if
$100-300 and 1-2 hours of labor.
the clutch has been changed.
Cable slack and adjuster



SECTION 10: GAS TANK

Look for dents on the gas tank. Indicative of a drop or crash.
Open the gas tank and use a flashlight to
look for rust and loose sediment (clogs Rust removal is about $150.
carburetors).
Recoated gas tanks are generally not as
good as the original. This only applies to
The gas inside the tank should be light amber
metal gas tanks (few are plastic). Very dark-
and the metal should be bare. Milky paint-like
colored gas means it has been sitting inside
coatings mean it has had rust removed and
for a very long time which will require a
been coated.
thorough fuel-system cleaning ($5 and 2-3
hours of labor).
Ensure the lock on the gas cap works. $100-200 for an OEM cap with lock.
SECTION 11: SEATING
This will make your pants wet after raining.
Look for tears and cracks.
$100-150 to get it reupholstered.
Ensure the locking release works with the
$80 and ½ hour of labor to fix.
key.
A poorly situated seat is annoying and if the
Ensure the seat is stable and latches on
latch does not work properly the electrical
snugly.
inside may be vulnerable.


SECTION 12: TIRES

Ask the owner how many years and A good owner will know. 3-5 years and
kilometers are on the tires. 50,000 km is the maximum amount of time.
Inspect tire treads:
i) at least 1/8” tread left Off-road tires - $100-200 / pair
ii) no squared-off tires, dry rot (fine Street/sport tires - $170-300 / pair
cracking), or baldness
Record year of tire manufacture. Post-2000 date code is WWYY. For pre-
2000, WWY (week, year number). Eg: 226 is
22nd week of 1996, or 1986, etc.


SECTION 13: ELECTRICAL AND BATTERY

Check to make sure lights work:
i) headlights (low/high) work
ii) turn signals work
Light bulb replacement isn‟t expensive but „iv‟
iii) brake lights work
is very important: if this doesn‟t happen there
iv) oil pressure light comes on when the
could be something seriously wrong with the
ignition is on but turns off when
motorcycle.
engine is started
v) horn works
vi) instrument cluster lights up
Ensure that the key turns the ignition, but A stolen bike has the ignition hammered with
also that an incorrect key does not turn the a flathead screwdriver, damaging the ignition.
ignition. $200 and 1.5 hours of labor to replace.
If applicable, ensure that the kickstand Riding with the kickstand engaged is
engine cut-off works (ask the owner as it extremely dangerous, so it is best to have an
differs between bikes). engine cut-off.
Start the engine and hit the kill switch. The
This is a safety hazard if it is inoperable.
engine should turn off.
Start the engine and listen for cranking If the bike starts without trouble the
issues. ignition/battery is good.
Turn the headlights on and rev the engine. Battery is discharged or almost dead. $80-
The headlights should not dim. 120 for a new battery.
Ignition switch and steering head


SECTION 14: SUSPENSION

Ask the owner how long it has been since the

Replacement is about $100 and 2-3 hours of
fork seals were changed. They should be
labor with the bushings.
changed every 24-32,000 kilometers.
Straddle the bike, grab the front brake and Squeaking noises or binding is very bad. No
push down vigorously on the forks. They resistance means the dampers may need
should go down and back up with resistance. replacing.
Inspect the fork legs. They should be:

i) smooth with absolutely no scratches,
Replacing fork legs is very expensive.
nicks, gouges.
ii) Totally free of oil droplets.
Ask the owner when the last time suspension Suspension fluid should be changed every
fluid was changed. year or two.
Get someone to stabilize the front of the bike

If the bike does not show any resistance at all
and push down on the bike‟s grab rail or
then the shock absorbers require
passenger seat hard. The bike should spring
replacement. $350 and 3 hours of labor.
back up.




SECTION 15: WHEELS

Look carefully around the circumference of
$100 + labor for straightening.
both sides of the wheels and look for dents.
(Optional) If the wheels are spoked, wiggle
Loose spokes are a sign of neglect.
each spoke to ensure it is not loose.
(Optional) Magnesium or carbon-fiber wheels
These wheels are light and are an indication
should be inspected carefully for cracks.
of racing. Cracks will propagate quickly
(Brands such as Technomagnesio or
leading to catastrophic failure.
Marchesini.”)


SECTION 16: CHAIN/SPROCKETS

Grab the chain at the rearmost point on the
rear sprocket and pull backwards (Warning,
greasy!). If you can pull it off to expose half a New chain costs $100 + 1 hour of labor.
tooth or more it needs replacement. Rollers
should be smooth and clean.
Sprocket teeth should be absolutely
symmetrical. Excessive wear will form $60 + 1 hour of labor for 2 new sprockets.
hooked teeth.
(Optional) If the chain uses a clip-type
masterlink (common in aftermarket chains) If the required clip (if applicable) is missing or
make sure the closed end faces the direction installed improperly the chain may come off.
that the chain rotates.
Have someone put their weight on the bike to
Overly tightened chains result in excessive
check the chain. It should have at least 1” of
wear.
play at the middle at the bottom of the loop.


SECTION 17: EXHAUST

Inspect the exhaust pipe for holes. These are bad, indicative of a crash or
advanced rust.
Start the engine and listen for chugging This indicates pulsing from escaping exhaust
noises from the exhaust. through holes.
(Optional) If the bike has multiple exhaust
pipes, start the engine and hold a piece of
If the pressure is obviously unequal this may
paper close to each exhaust pipe to feel if the
require modifications to the exhaust piping or
pressure is roughly equal. Be very cautious of
manifold, which is quite expensive.
backfiring as this will severely burn anything
behind the exhaust.
SECTION 18: ENGINE/FLUIDS/CARBURETORS

Once the engine is cooled down, perform a Pre-warmed engines will mask cold-start
cold-start and rev the engine. There should problems. Clacking sounds while idling is
be no clacking sounds or hesitation with cause to abandon the bike. Hesitation and
revving. stumbling during revving means carburetor
problems.
Twist the throttle and let it snap back with the This could be a problem with the carburetor
handlebars straight and turned. If the engine or the throttle cable:
keeps revving or the throttle is resistant there i) Carburetor is gunked up ($200 or $5
is a problem. + 1-3 hours of labor)
ii) Bent handlebars preventing the
throttling tube from sliding well:
$75 but indicates a crash
iii) Throttle cables partially seized or
routed poorly. Cables are $20 + ½
hour of labor



Ask the owner when the oil was last changed. The owner must know when this was
performed. It should be every 5,000 mi/8,000
km, every 6 months, and before winterizing.
Check oil level. It should be in range. Note i) honey-colored: very recently changed
the color. Oil level should be within range. (fades to black with time/use)
ii) black: old oil -- ask owner when it was
last changed
iii) white milky streaks: water is leaking
into the oil (see below)
iv) grey oil: lots of aluminum particles in
oil (semi-OK on dirt bike, not OK on
street bike)
v) shiny metal flecks: run away -- major
abnormal engine wear
(Optional) For liquid cooled bikes, check the
White streaks indicate water. It could be
oil coolant for white streaks. If the white
condensation from the air or a leak.
streaks are present, run the bike for 20-30
Condensation will burn off in the 20-30
minutes. If they do not disappear, this means
minutes.
major engine work to replace gaskets.
Check coolant level at the radiator overflow Coolant levels should be within range. If the
bottle. coolant color is clear or pink then it indicates
the bike has been raced. Green coolant is
normal. Brownish green coolant means
rusting is occurring within the system which is
not worth repairing.
Run the bike for 20-30 minutes and check to White smoke is normal to be seen during
ensure that the exhaust is invisible (do not start-up, but if it continues after 20-30
confuse white smoke with condensing air on minutes it indicates oil or coolant is being
a cold day). burned (leak). Blue smoke indicates burning
oil.


SECTION 19: CENTERSTAND CHECKS (OPTIONAL)

Have someone sit on the passenger seat so
These can be the result of dents in the
the front wheel is lifted into the air. Turn the
steering bearings from wheelies or improper
steering through the entire range of motion.
cable routing. Steering bearings are $60-80 +
There should be no notching, binding or
2 hours of labor.
irregularities.
Spin the front wheel and gently apply the A pulsating feeling at the lever means new
brakes. It should feel and sound smooth. brake rotors are needed and may be warped.
$150-250 each rotor.
Grab the front axle and pull and push it (not
The front axle should not move at all.
twist). It should not move.
Put the front wheel down and grab the rear
axle and try to move it side to side (checking If it can move, the swingarm bearings are
swingarm movement). It should not move badly worn. $150 + 3-4 hours of labor.
independent of the motorcycle chassis.
SECTION 20: SERVICE

Ask the owner for any service documentation.
A good owner will keep tabs on his bike
maintenance.
SECTION 21: ACCESSORIES

Component Modified / upgraded? Comments
Exhaust Full systems purchasing worth: $100-300
Slip-ons purchasing worth: $50-200


Component Modified / upgraded? Comments

Tank “Bra” $20
Centerstands $30-50
Suspension General: $200-300

Fox shocks: $550
Ohlins/Penske: $750
Purchasing worth: $50-100
Extra Storage Tank bags: $30-60
Soft luggage: $80-120
Hard luggage: $200-600
Other modifications
SECTION 22: TITLES AND PAPERWORK

Ensure the VIN number on the title matches Mismatch could mean a stolen vehicle.
the one on the bike.
Ensure the seller is the owner on the title, Do not buy a bike with liens or unreleased
and that there are no liens (ask the seller to liens as the bike could be repossessed from
put it down in writing). “Salvage” or “total you.
loss” title means the bike was crashed. Verify
the bike‟s color.
Ensure you obtain a bill of sale. Can be written down anywhere.


SECTION 23: TEST RIDE (OPTIONAL)

Check revving, clutch feel, and brakes. Get Pulsing at the brake lever indicates warped
up to highway speeds and slowly and firmly rotors ($150-250 each)
brake using only the front or rear brake. It
should be smooth.
On a smooth road, feel for wobbling, Wobbling indicates crash damage, and
thumping and unusual shaking that varies shaking could be a problem with the wheels
with road speed (not engine speed). or tires.
Check for popping out of gear during engine This is a major problem and a very expensive
braking and under hard acceleration. thing to repair.
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QUALIFICATION PROTOCOL

PROTOCOL NO. IQ.OQ.PQ.001.00

INSTALLATION, OPERATIONAL AND

IQ/OQ/PQ for Used Bikes

NOT FOR SALE / FREE FOR DISTRIBUTION

Filename: IQ.OQ.PQ.001.00 Used Bikes.doc Page 2 of 29

IQ/OQ/PQ for Used Bikes

SECTION 1: TERMS OF AGREEMENT

NOT FOR SALE / FREE FOR DISTRIBUTION

Filename: IQ.OQ.PQ.001.00 Used Bikes.doc Page 3 of 29

IQ/OQ/PQ for Used Bikes

SECTION 2: HELPFUL DIAGRAMS

NOT FOR SALE / FREE FOR DISTRIBUTION

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IQ/OQ/PQ for Used Bikes

NOT FOR SALE / FREE FOR DISTRIBUTION

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IQ/OQ/PQ for Used Bikes

NOT FOR SALE / FREE FOR DISTRIBUTION

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IQ/OQ/PQ for Used Bikes

NOT FOR SALE / FREE FOR DISTRIBUTION

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IQ/OQ/PQ for Used Bikes

NOT FOR SALE / FREE FOR DISTRIBUTION

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IQ/OQ/PQ for Used Bikes

SECTION 4: GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS

Manufacturer: _________________ VIN: _________________

Reason for selling:

NOT FOR SALE / FREE FOR DISTRIBUTION

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IQ/OQ/PQ for Used Bikes

SECTION 5: OVERALL APPEARANCE

Scratched fairings Bent subframe

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IQ/OQ/PQ for Used Bikes

SECTION 6: CRASH HISTORY

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Crashed brake lever Crashed gas tank

Cracked bodywork behind a sticker Broken mounting tab on frame

NOT FOR SALE / FREE FOR DISTRIBUTION

Filename: IQ.OQ.PQ.001.00 Used Bikes.doc Page 12 of 29

IQ/OQ/PQ for Used Bikes

SECTION 7: RACING OR ABUSIVE CARE

The holes should be about 1/16” and not

Check tires for roughed up edges, covered

Look for heavy duty aftermarket engine

Inspect the frame for cracks (especially along

NOT FOR SALE / FREE FOR DISTRIBUTION

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IQ/OQ/PQ for Used Bikes

Ragged edges Aftermarket engine cover

Ragged edges Safety-wired holes Safety-wired nut

NOT FOR SALE / FREE FOR DISTRIBUTION

Filename: IQ.OQ.PQ.001.00 Used Bikes.doc Page 14 of 29

IQ/OQ/PQ for Used Bikes

Engage the front brake, and then the rear

NOT FOR SALE / FREE FOR DISTRIBUTION

Manufacturer: _ VIN: _