Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Introduction
The tourist population from the developed North Atlantic realm is hardly
ubiquitous in its sojourns throughout the less developed regions of Africa, Asia,
and Latin America. In broad terms, we can differentiate two distinct consumer
populations and venues that constitute worldwide tourism. On the one hand,
there exists globalization tourism that attracts mainstream customers in search
of secure, safe, and fairly predictable settings that include bargain-priced
and large facilities destinations. For U.S. tourists that means searching for a
destination that sparks something more exotic than what we might find in, say,
Florida or California. A comparable Latin American and Caribbean destination
might be Cancun, Mazitlan, Montego Bay, Rio de Janeiro, or Punta del Este
(Boxhill et al. 2002). Not surprisingly, fairly well known international chains
often administer these rather large, oceanfront properties. A list of properties
by Sheraton, Marriott, Super Clubs, Hilton, Melii, or Super Clubs afford the
globalization tourists (GTers) the familiar standard array of facilities that include
pool, multiple dining venues, on-ground entertainment, dish-network television
from around the world, and the normal host of credit-card affiliates noted at the
registration check-in. Anne Tyler (1990) richly portrays one of these GTers in
her novel, TheAccidental Tourist, an earnest individual perhaps more interested
in the standard checklist attributes of places and hotels than local variations
such places might afford the foreign visitor.
Another international group of tourists form a distinct consumer culture
in that they seek out the cultural landscapes and icons that represent historical
periods, ethnicity, religious affiliation, and distinct periods of art and architecture
etched into the cityscapes of towns and cities. These international tourists comprise
heritage tourists that are common among the ranks of Elderhostel goers, young
academics and students, and others with a keen interest in the preservation and
conservation of material and non-material culture. For them, small and quirky
2 Material Culture
Between 1930 and 1960, most Latin American historic preservationists
addressed single public and private buildings, or an occasional town square.
Rarely did they focus on a multi-block segment of the original colonial core.
While today there is general accord among municipal, national, and international
entities that these valuable places should be restored (Tung 2001; Hardoy
1992; Gutman 1992; Hardoy and Gutman 1992), the pace of change and the
quality of historic preservation remains uneven. What we ascertain from novels,
photographs, art, land-use studies, and ethnographic accounts of residents are
just a 'snapshot' of the evolution of these districts.
If Latin American architectural historians have elevated the discussion of
heritage sites, land use and zoning enforcement has lagged behind. The 196 0s
witnessed considerable interest in Latin American historic districts (the Brazilians
began well before WWII in selected towns and cities). Thought of largely as
a dilemma of architectural preservation, the decade saw legislative reform that
set out clear guidelines for urban renewal, building codes, and preservation
efforts. In 1964, protecting the isolated national monument expanded to include
"modest works that have, through time, acquired cultural significance (Carta
Internacional... 1974). By 1967, the Organization of American States' conference
in Quito (often called the Carta de Quito or Quito Letter) moved to link these
ideas more closely with legislation and urban planning. This produced a spate
of research on widely acclaimed historical places such as Antigua, Guatemala,
Cuzco, Peru, and Moquegua, Peru. The pivotal Quito Letter strengthened
historic preservation throughout Latin America. It sent a message to all nations
to address planning concerns for historical districts, and to capture the social
histories of these places. UNESCO, foreign governments (mostly Spain, Italy,
Holland and Canada), and philanthropic agencies helped to publicize World
Heritage Sites in the 1980s. However, the economic downturn in the late 1970s
and 1980s (known as the 'lost decade' in Latin America) made governments hard
pressed to allocate money to historic preservation, when other more 'immediate'
needs such as schooling, water, and health care required attention (Well and
Scarpaci 1992).
The Quito Colloquium defined historical districts as "those living settlements
that are strongly conditioned by a physical structure stemming from the past,
and recognizable as being representative of the evolution of a people" (PNUD/
UNESCO 1977, n.p., my translation). Primarily, people live in historic districts
today, unlike the archeological ruins of such pre-Colombian settlements as
Machu Pichu, Peru, Tikal, Guatemala, or Tulum, Mexico. Also inherent in this
definition is the idea that historical districts are not limited to the stock of their
built environments: building, town squares, fountains, colonnaded galleries,
sculptures, filigree ironwork, strectlamps, and arches. Rather, historic districts
include non-material culture such as the people, their lifestyles and traditions,
productive activities, beliefs, and urban rituals (saints' days, founder's days,
pre-Lenten carnivals).
Clearly, the CBD and the centro histdrico are two distinct places and should
not be conflated in studying the Latin American city.
Streetscapes of the 'typical' historic district are inviting, and both the
street width and building height are captivating to the pedestrian. One can
appreciate pre-modern skilled work in the plasterwork, ironwork, balconies
(cantilevered and otherwise), rails, archways, pediments, doorways, columns
(Ionic, Doric, Corinthian and mixtures thereof), and a variety of roof tiles.
Architectural historians have written volumes on the origin and modification
of each element (Covo 1996), all which combine to make the centro histdrico
aestheticaly pleasing.
4 Material Culture
As firms and individuals exchange information and commodities at a
quickening pace, the abilities of the nation-state and its regulatory agencies
diminish. That means nations slowly lose control over the flows of information,
capital, and technology that pass through their boundaries. Some argue that
these 'new spaces of globalization' represent a victory of post-Fordist capitalism
(Dicken 1999) because new types of investment are no longer based on the
traditional components of economic development that included natural resources
and cheap labor. Because labor unions and the conventional blocs of voters are
made increasingly powerless in a globalized world, transnational capital can
more easily circumvent the traditional coalitions who looked to the state for
protection and support (Mishra 1999; Afshar and Pezzoli 2001; Korten 1995;
Mander and Goldsmith 1996).
These reasons highlight how globalization is inextricably tied to the
transformation of the centro histdrico.Whether the changes stem from remittances
sent by Ecuadorian dishwashers in New York and New Jersey; European jet-
setters or narco money-laundcrs in Cartagena; or European multinationals
in Habana Vieja, the evidence is clear: those who live in the historic quarters
must articulate their needs in a policy arena that is increasingly dominated by
international capital.
Figure IA and IB. Trinidad's main town square (Plaza Mayor, left) and Three Crosses
Square (Plaza Calvario or Plaza Tres Cruces, right) reflect the 'duality of heritage' idea. Just five
blocks apart, the main square of Trinidad preserves a mid- to late nineteenth plaza in very good
structural shape. The Palacio Brunet, the Architectural Museum, the Anthropological Museum,
and an art gallery flank it. Tourists visit the town square because it displays the decorative arts
and accoutrements of the mid-1800s that make heritage tourism so inviting. Yet, four blocks away
in Las Tres Cruces (The Three Crosses) neighborhood, there is another town square. A Holy Week
procession through the town culminated in this unpaved town square (the Cuban leadership ended
the procession until 1998, thanks in part to the visit of Pope John Paul II). For the locals, this 'low'
culture public space attracts more than ten thousand trinitarioson Good Friday and holds more
meaning than the main town square even though the latter brings in millions of dollars to Trinidad.
6 MaterialCulture
Figure 2. The "sefora de la chalupa"
symbolizes the street vendors' dilemma in
Puebla and other historic centers. While many
pedestrians want her products (the chalupa,
a corn tortilla served with meat or cheese and
various chili or chocolate (poblana)sauces).
Others, especially shopkeepers, object to their
nominal payment of taxes and fees, and their
'cluttering up' of sidewalks and parks. Here,
this vendor works next to a plaza in Puebla, just
off the sidewalk, in the entrance of a building.
8 MaterialCulture
Guevara judged the hcnchmen of Cuban dictatator Fulgencio Batista (1952-58).
Many of the accused were jailed and executed there. The same fortress was a
jail for homosexuals, 'counter-revolutionaries,' and other politically incorrect
persons as portrayed in the autobiographical book, Before Night Falls (Antes de
que Anochezca) by the late exiled writer Reinaldo Arenas (and the basis of the
Julian Schnabel-directed film of the same name). However, sorting out historical
meanings for a single building or public space is a complex task and is often ill
suited to government agencies.
This example of La Cabafia brings into focus the GTer versus HTer
experience. Given Cuba's relative isolation from the American travel market
(except for select religious or long-term academic travel), the entire complex
exemplifies the niche-marketing aspect of heritage tourism. However, should
the trade and travel embargo suddenly end, La Cabafia canon ceremony might
become as commonplace as the fireworks that highlight Disney World each
evening at 9 p.m. in Orlando, Florida. The Cuban Ministry of Culture believes
it is more remunerative to present 'high-brow' aspects of earlier landscapes than
plebian or 'dark' venues. While the historical accuracy of these and similar
events may be secondary to the scenery, they are visually striking spectacles
that attract audiences. This is not to suggest that low economic capital events
in Latin America are simply the result of backwardness, underdevelopment, or
Latin American culture. For example, Vilagrasa and Larkham (1995) highlight
this uneasiness between high and low culture in their study of Worcester, one
of Britain's 'historic towns.' Worcester's "historic core consists of several pseudo-
Georgian structures superficially resembling the predominant character.. .but
by default rather than by conscious planning decision" (Vilagrasa and Larkham
1995, 170). Summing up, despite the veracity or debate that determines what
is built and what is restored, there is a growing tourism market that seeks these
places (Tung 2001; Serageldin, Shluger, and Martin-Brown 2001).
The nation-state and municipal governments are, at best, willing accomplices
in promoting change in their centros histdricos. Simply stated, local authorities do
little to enhance residential buildings either through direct repair, subsidies, or
tax incentives. Rather, public efforts go to promoting tourism and commercial
enterprises of all sizes. Many of these enterprises are internal, and though
globalization is somewhat imprecise, it remains a useful conceptual tool in
understanding the nuances of how transnational processes impact at the local
level. For example, how does the French hotel chain Sofitel retrofit the Santa Clara
Convent in Cartagena and demonstrate its relationship with the centro histdricoat
the local level, and its allegiance to international capital (Scarpaci 2000a)? What
are the restrictions that international capital indirectly imposes on tourist workers
who labor in Habana Vieja's tourist industry (Scarpaci 2000b)? These tensions
highlight the need for a global and theoretically informed perspective that connects
the centro histdrico to local, municipal, national, and international factors. It also
suggests that the consumer choices available to HTers are highly segmented and
are subject to numerous choices in a dizzying area of tourist destinations.
Technology Segmentation
E cology Specialization
Enter-tainmen Environment m- Sophistication
Satisfaction
Multi-cultural Seduction
Sightseeing
Shopping
Short Break
Shows
Scotch Whiskey
Figure 3.
10 MaterialCulture
arc taken into account, tourism can contribute substantially towards social and
economic development.
Recently, a few countries registered higher than annual growth rates of
international tourist arrivals. Central American destinations, including Belize
and Panama, witnessed a remarkable growth rate of 13% between 1995 and
2000; nearly four times the world average. The Dominican Republic and Cuba
experienced more than one million arrivals and had growth rates of 18 and
11%, respectively. In 2001, the First Ibero-American Tourism Summit in Cuzco,
Peru gave tourism a priority role in economic development programs. A joint
Benign
Climate Segmentation
(heritage)
Specialization
Technology (architecture)
Eu
Edu- cySophistication
•,cology :". (eladetd:
Enter-tainmenEnte-taimen
Envionmnt
Enronment
____(well-educated
Western tourists)
S\ / • ="Satisfaction
/• Multi-cultural (desandin
~(demanding ,
'high' culture
Sightseeing urban attributes
Shopping Seduction
(alternatives
Short Break to modern
CulturalShows MetropoiiS))
Figure4.
declaration, The Cuzco Commitment, stated that tourism could provide an edge
against poverty, especially when indigenous and cultural elements factor into
tourist programs (Franginalli 2002, 2). All this bodes well for re-examining the
role of heritage tourism in the historic Spanish American neighborhood.
Buhalis (2000) has shown how dynamic tourism demand trends derive from
globalization and pose both challenges and opportunities (Figure 3). Applied
to the Latin American centro histdrico,we see that these old corners of the Latin
American city afford specialized, segmented, and seductive amenities that draw
international tourists to them (Figure 4). While the challenges remain about
teasing out 'high' from 'low' culture, and 'authentic' from 'artificial' heritage
elements, the potential for this niche marketing is formidable.
There is good evidence that most Americans may not be that interested
in unique consumer experiences. De Graaf et al. (2002) are part of a growing
Conclusions
Heritage tourism focused on the Latin American centro historico that serves
as what Leiss, Kline and Jhally (1986) call a 'lifestyle within modern consumer
culture.' These historic corners offer visual dimensions that afford a unique
public gaze into the American tourist. Conceptualized as a sort of 'open air
museum,' these historic corners of the Latin American city do not require
extensive historical contexts so that the visitor can interpret them (Mills 2003).
Garrisons, ramparts, cathedrals, plazas, and barrios unfold as one walks through
them at a pedestrian-friendly pace (Scarpaci 2005). International travel in the
industrial nations of the 'north' has increasingly brought remote destinations
of Africa, Asia, and Latin America into the consumer's reach.
This paper has discussed two distinct consumer populations. Globalization
tourists (GTers) include those who want predictable and secure destinations.
A plethora of international hotel and resort chains operate large, oceanfront
properties catering to these needs. Another second, but growing consumer group,
desires cultural features that make up smaller corners of Latin American towns
and cities. These heritage tourists (HTers) are often associated with ranks of
Elderhostel travelers, university students, and others with a vested interest in
cultural preservation. To show how such travel is segmented, I reinterpreted a
model posted by Buhalis (2000) that segments the GTer from the HTer. While the
latter isrelatively small in comparison, it is likely to afford an alternative setting as
globalization homogenizes the tourists' spaces of the world's growing leisure class.
Even though heritage tourism displays an unproblematic interpretation of the
past, many consumers may be unaware of the polemics attached to how historic
landscapes are packaged for consumption, nor does it matter about whose memory
of the Latin American historic district is being preserved. American consumers,
due to proximity and relative cost, will likely continue to seek out heritage tourism
12 MaterialCulture
in Latin America and the Caribbean - particularly in the centro hist6rico - precisely
because their landscapes and venues are just a bit less predictable than the 'sun n'
surf' venues that globalization tourism so aggressively promotes.
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