Tech Knowledgebase

Tech Knowledgebase
Interior/Audio Tech Category
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Contents
Interior/Audio Tech 1
01+ Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Install 1
Easy Starter Kill Switch 2
Full Time Power Outlets 3
Install a Mini Tachometer 3
Toggled Door Buzzer 4
1995.5-2004 7
4Runner Tweeter Pod Install (Pre-01 only) 7
Stock Speaker Size Chart 9
Increase Your 2003 Keyless Remote Range 10
Dash Take-Apart Instructions 11
Disable the flashing seat belt light 19
Change the Backlight Color of Your Gauges 20
White-Faced Climate Control Panel 20
Program your factory keyless entry functions 23
2003 Keyless Entry System Upgrade 25
Rear Interior Disassembly (Double Cab) 34
Remove Rear Door Panels (Double Cab) 38
Removing Front Door Panels (01-04) 41
Factory Alarm Piezo Buzzer Disable 46
Seat Installations I: Transplanting Seats Into Your Truck 48
Seat Installations II: Installing Aftermarket Seats 53
Door Panel Removal and Recovering 61
Toyota VIP Keyless/Security Installation Instructions 73
Replace Your Dash Lights with LEDs (95-04) 73
Upgrade/Install Map Lights in 95.5-2004 Trucks 86
2001-2004 XtraCab Rear Speaker Access/Removal 91
2005+ 94
Disable 2005+ Door Buzzer 94
2005+: Install Toyota VIP System 96
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Interior/Audio Tech
01+ Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Install
Things that are needed:
Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Additional O2 Sensor (Cannot Use Factory Sensor)
Butt Connectors & 16-18 Gauge Wire (red and black will do)
A Lift If Available(makes install much easier)
I bought a Autometer C2 Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge (Part #7175) and also a ignition bezel w/o a clock. Cut
a 2 1/16 hole in that then mounted the air/fuel gauge in there.
(http://www.customtacos.com/ubbthreads/files/163546-MVC-012F.JPG)
Instead of just purchasing a O2 sensor from a local parts store, i opted for the autometer O2 sensor
kit which is designed to work with all autometer air/fuel gauges (Part
#2244)(http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/atm-2244.jpg)The 2244 kit comes
with 3 wires that consist of a purple wire used to monitor the air/fuel ratio, and a heater positive and
negative wire that helps warm up the 02 sensor so it will give readings faster. Next comes the hard
part. You need to go to a local muffler place (midas, meineke) and have them weld in the O2 sensor.
The O2 sensor must be welded in after where the header is bolted to the exhaust pipe and before
the first catalytic converter. IT MUST NOT be in line with the air/fuel sensor at all! Adding in the
additional O2 sensor will change the flow of exhaust through the pipe. When that flow is altered the
air/fuel sensor may not read properly causing your engine to run poorly and check engine lights may
occur. (picture of the setup coming soon)
Next is running the wires and loom into the cab of the truck. Remove your passenger side door sill
and lift the carpet up just a bit. There should be a grommet on the floor.(if not drill a hole and install
a grommet) I ran the loom/wires from the exhaust pipe through there and then under the dash. Key
note* Wiretie the loom somewhere that is away from the exhaust pipe but not in line with your front
right tire. Bad weather such as snow and ice could get on the loom eventually causing it to break
open and expose wires. Remove the panel below the driver side steering column so its easier to get
to wires.Run the wires under the carpet and close to the firewall(so the passenger shouldnt feel the
loom under the carpet when their feet are on it) You will need to tap a few wires under your dash.
Positive, Accessory, Illumination & Ground. Use a test light to figure out which wires do what. This
part will most likely be different on other trucks because i have a boost gauge as well. My 2 gauges
share the same illumination wire. I tapped the wire coming off of the factory rheostat (dimmer
switch) so when i turn on my headlights, the gauges light as well. If you want to install a dimmer for
just the gauges, you will need a potentiometer/rheostat.
Wiring should be as follows. Toyota rheostat illumiation wire to one post on the aftermarket
potentiometer/rheostat. Other post to illumination wire for air/fuel gauge. YOU CANNOT USE A
POTENTIOMETER/RHEOSTAT ON THE GROUND OR POSITIVE WIRE FOR THESE GAUGES! Doing so will
limit the amount of voltage to the meter causing it not to work properly. Illumination wire is the
ONLY wire that can be used for dimming purposes. After you finish all of your connections, run motor
and make sure gauge is working properly, turn lights on and off making sure gauge illuminates
correctly. Use electrical tape over any butt connectors/spliced wires to ensure no 2 wires can touch
causing a short. Put back on the panel underneath the steering column and enjoy a nice new air/fuel
ratio gauge.
http://www.customtacos.com/ubbthreads/files/163546-MVC-010F.JPG
http://www.customtacos.com/ubbthreads/files/185483-Mvc-007f.jpg
http://www.customtacos.com/ubbthreads/files/185483-Mvc-004f.jpg
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** More work is needed on this article -I'll get to it at some point --Jeff **
Easy Starter Kill Switch
By: Blangkang
Most good anti-theft systems have one common feature: starter kill. This feature alone is enough to
prevent a vehicle from getting stolen, or at least slow the the thief down or frusterate him until he
gives up.
On Tacomas equipped with a manual transmission, there is a clutch sensor that tells your ECU if the
clutch is being depressed so it can start the engine. If you disconnect that sensor, the truck won't
start. So, the idea is to create a switched circuit that can be toggled to create a homemade starter
kill system.
This tech article described how to install such a security upgrade on an 05' Tacoma X-Runner.
Please note that the wiring locations/directions will most likely be different on pre-05 models.
Tools needed:
- a toggle switch
- Amount of 16-18g wire need to run the switch to your location
- Handful of wire connects / solder gun & solder
- Electrical tape and black wire loom
- Wire cutters/strippers
The first step in this process is to find a secret location for your switch. It is a good idea to put the
switch somewhere that is not obvious but easily accessible.
Next, you are going to locate the clutch sensor that's just left of your clutch. The wire you're going
to cut is the BLACK and BLUE.
With the wire cut, connect both cut ends to the new wires that leads to your switch. Make sure your
connections are soldered or made with secure wire connectors. You don't want this connection to be
undependable.
<img border=1 src=files/05_theft/01.jpg>
Make sure you protect the wires with electrical tape. Also, it may be a good idea to put black wire
loom on your new wire leads to make the installation appear stock.
<img border=1 src=files/05_theft/02.jpg width=250 height=191><img border=1

src=files/05_theft/03.jpg width=250 height=191>
Operation is simple: When you exit your truck, simply turn the switch off. Before you attempt to
start your truck, simply turn the switch back on.

I know this is not going to STOP someone who wants to steal your truck - if they want it that bad
they will get it. But this easy modification will either stop or delay them.
Full Time Power Outlets
By: ZR2Steve
This modification will enable the power outlets for your accessories to have full time power even
when the ignition is turned off. This can be useful if you have a CB radio with a re-set feature, or a
cell phone charger, map lights etc. Once completed, you must be careful not to leave any devices
running or charging for too long and drain your battery.
<img src=files/148-PowerOutlet-1s.JPG alt=Enlarge border=1>
Look at the fuse box under the hood, the cover shows the location of the fuses, relays, etc marked
on the cover. You will see a block marked PWR OUTLET. Now remove the cover and locate that relay,
using the the map on the cover. Remove that relay, it pulls up, but may need to be wiggled. If you
look at the socket there are 4 plugs, 2 small & 2 large plugs. The large plugs use standard male
crimp connectors, those are the two you want to jump.
Now make a short, (appox 2) wire with two stardard flat male crimp connectors and plug this wire
into the only two socket that stardard connectors will fit into, where the removed relay was.
Here is the jumper installed. If you would like to check the work before you turn on the key that is
OK. Put the jumper in and BEFORE you turn on the key, see if your sockets have power.
Another thing you may want to verify - is that the line is still fused. To test, pull the stock fuse, and
see if the outlets still have power. If they don't, then the line is still fused.
You may want to keep the unused relay in a 35mm film canister for a spare. The canister will keep it
in good condition and is easily stored in the truck somewhere.
Install a Mini Tachometer
By: Paul Vincent
The following covers my custom installation of an AutoMeter MiniTach (about $60) with the wiring
done completely in-cab on my '98 Tacoma Extended Cab.

<img border=1 src=files/tach_install/A_tn.jpg align=right vspace=8 hspace=8>
Deciding on the place to put the tachometer was where I began. I decided to mount it on the
steering column right in front of the speedometer for a clean, low-profile look. To mount it, I marked
the centerline on the cover with a permanent marker and then drilled the holes necessary for the
base to be lined up. Sheet metal screws came with the tachometer so I used a small squared
shaped piece of sheet metal underneath the plastic cover to help secure the base on the plastic
cover (NOTE: The tips of the screws were ground down so that the cover would fit without the screws
hitting surfaces inside the steering column.) I then loosely attached the tachometer to see how it fit
in the dash and everything looked fine - plenty of clearance from the steering wheel and the
speedometer was still easily readable with the tachometer adjusted at different angles.
<img border=1 src=files/tach_install/Tach_tn.gif align=left vspace=8 hspace=8>
Once the fitment of the tachometer on the column cover was finished, the focus shifted to routing
the wiring. For ease of connection, I decided to connect the tachometer to my in-dash Sony CD
wiring harness adapter using the ground spade connector, 12V+ ignition wire, and dash illumination
wire. The tachometer wires travel from the back of the tachometer, under the gauge pod, along the
kick panel (going over the parking brake) to the center console. The tachometer 12V+ ignition (red
wire), illumination (white wire), and ground (black wire) were soldered to the wiring adapter's 12V+
wire, dash lighting wire, and spade ground terminal. I secured the grounding spade connection to
the left bolt of the parking brake bracket. The tach signal wire (green) was routed past the center
console interior to the passenger side kick panel area towards the computer (which is behind the
glove box) - which brings us to the next step: finding the right ECM circuit to use for the tach signal.
<img border=1 src=files/tach_install/wiring_tn.jpg align=right vspace=8 hspace=8>
After getting the wiring diagram manual, I found which connection to use on the ECM. ECM
connector E8 (the 26 pin connector on the left) contains the ignition signal that should be used (the
IGF signal - Black/Yellow wire to pin 17 of connector). The green tachometer wire was temporarily
inserted into the back of E8 connector pin 17 to verify that it was the correct one. Once verified (the
engine was able to start and the tachometer was reading), the green tachometer wire was spliced to
the IGF signal wire (see image at right).
<img border=1 src=files/tach_install/B_tn.jpg align=left vspace=8 hspace=8>
After it was installed I checked out how it performed.

The Tacoma was on stock wheels and tires and the AutoMeter MiniTach checked out as follows:
Idle: 750 - 800 rpm
2nd gear at just less than 55mph: ~5,300rpm
5th gear at 55mph: ~2,000rpm
Matches nearly perfectly the top speeds in each gear per owners manual. I don't know why Toyota
decided most 5 speed Tacoma's don't need tachometers, but as this has shown you, it's not really
that hard to add what should have been there from the start in a manual transmission vehicle.
Toggled Door Buzzer
By: Randy Hobart
You're cleaning your truck at the car wash and you want to listen to the stereo
while you're working on the interior... but the door chime isn't quite flattering
to your tunes. For whatever reason, you would like to have your keys in the ignition
while your door is open, but you want the door chime to JUST STOP!!! Here's an easy
little fix that won't completely disable your door switch. Just add a toggle switch
in-line to your door button.

Adding a toggle switch is simple since the door button is simply a one-wire switch
that completes the circuit when the door is opened.
Parts/Materials Needed:
1 small toggle switch

2 feet of 18 ga. electrical wire
2 female wire connectors
2 wire butt connectors
Tools Needed:
Phillips head screwdriver

10 mm nut driver / socket
Wire Cutters
Estimated Time: less than 1 Hour
<img src=files/121-toggle01.jpg border=1>
Procedure:
I stopped by AutoZone and picked up a tiny toggle switch. This particular one
uses a 1/2 x 3/4 opening. There is a vast array of toggle switches available -
your selection may vary.
Cut 2 pieces of 18 ga. wire into 12 inch lengths. Crimp female connectors to one
end of each of the wires. Depending on your mounting location, you might wish to
have longer wires.
Connect one wire to the ground prong of the toggle switch and the other wire to one of the
power prongs. (at this point, it doesn't matter which of the 2 power prongs, either
one will work the same)

Remove the door sill trim, kick panel, and lower dash panel.
I chose to to mount my toggle switch just inside my fuse access panel. The tiny
toggle switch just happened to fit perfectly onto the side of the plastic dash frame.
Locate the door switch wiring. You may have to move components out of the way
to access these wires. I had to remove the alarm module.
The door switch wire is a

red wire coming out of the body panel, butt-connected to a small green wire.
Cut the green wire, leaving enough wire

at each end to attach a new butt-connector.
Route the 2 new wires to the spliced green wire. Use butt-connectors to attach the
ends of the new wires. It does not matter which end matches up to the green wire ends.
Replace all of the dash components and trim pieces.
With the door open, insert your keys and toggle the switch. If all was completed properly, the key
buzzer will toggle on and off with the switch.
The inevitable downside to this toggle switch is that it also disables the dome light. It would also be
possible to add a toggle switch for the passenger door(s). But the key buzzer is only triggered by the
driver's door.
Now you have the option of turning the buzzer off. Just be sure not to lock your
keys in your truck!

1995.5-2004
4Runner Tweeter Pod Install (Pre-01 only)
Many Tacoma enthusiasts are audiophiles, or at least want better, more accurate sound from their
sound system. Installing a good set of component speakers can quickly and easily improve your
Tacoma's stereo. One of the problems we all face is the fact that there are no easy places to mount
the tweeters that come with a component speaker system. However, someone recently discovered
that factory 4Runner tweeter pods will easily mount in any Tacoma, due to the fact that the interior
of the two trucks is so similar. Below is a detailed account of my experience installing factory
4Runner tweeter pods in my 1999 2wd Tacoma.
Order Parts:
Go to your local Toyota dealership and order a set of 98-00 Toyota 4Runner door plastics for the
model with the 6-speaker sound system. Here is the actual part number and description:

Part #: 67492-35010-CO Description: Garnish, FR Door LWR
Part #: 67491-35010-CO Description: Garnish, FR Door LWR
You'll need to order 1 of each of the parts above. One is for the driver's door, the other is for the
passenger door. I'm not sure which is which, since I've already installed them. The price should be
somewhere around $20 each.
Installation:
The tweeters that I installed in the pods are 3/4 Rockford Fosgate Fanatic X series tweeters. It
appears as though 3/4 is about the largest tweeter you can squeeze into these pods, but you may be
able to fit a 1 tweeter in there.
First, remove your factory door triangle pieces and compare them to your new 4Runner pieces.
You'll probably notice that the two aren't exactly the same. The 4Runner plastics are a little taller
and cause the plastic snaps to not line up. I cut about 1/4 off of the bottom of each of the pods with
a hack saw to make them fit. I used a Dremmel tool to smooth the edges when I was done. I'll
cover these pieces later with some material to cover up the semi-rough looking edges.
Also, if you compare the round snaps that attach the pod to the door, you'll notice that there is a
clear plastic boot on the snap on the new piece. This boot will need to be removed in order for the
snap to fit in the Tacoma's mounting hole. See photo for more detail.

Next, you'll need to mount your tweeters in the pods. Since there is no built-in way to do this, I used
packing tape to hold the tweeters in there (Shhh, don't tell anybody). I have yet to see if this will
hold. I may need to use something else. Also, don't forget to attach a long enough speaker wire to
reach all the way down through your door and into the cab to your crossover unit.
Next, I removed the entire door panel and door speaker mount so that I could feed the speaker wire
through the boot and into the cab. Feeding the wire in through this boot was about the hardest part
of this installation. I found a straightened coat hanger works really well for this.
Next, I connected the speaker wire to my crossover, re-installed my door panel, and I was done! It
took me almost two hours to do the first one (mostly because I had to trim the 4Runner pods) and
only about an hour to do the second one.
Best of all, they sound and look great!!
Stock Speaker Size Chart
Below is a chart showing the size and location of stock speakers in Tacoma Regular Cabs, Extended

Cabs, and Double Cabs:
1995-2000
Front
Rear
Regular Cab
6.5
N/A
Extended Cab
6.5
6.75 (or 6.5s)
2001-up
Front
Rear
Regular Cab
6x8
N/A
Extended Cab
6x8
6x8
Double Cab
6x8
6x8
Increase Your 2003 Keyless Remote Range
For many 2003 Model Tocomas, the range on the factory keyless entry remote is
far less than desirable. In my case, I had a 2002 model that had very decent range. But I then got
into a 2003 model, and the remote range was a far cry shorter. I do not have an explination as to
why it is so dramatically insufficient compared to previous models, but I certainly wanted to find a
way to improve it. This method simply lengthens the antenna.
To lengthen the antenna, you will need to add about 4 or 5 feet of wire to the end of the antenna
with a butt-connector.
The antenna is located under the driver side dash.

It is a small, grey wire with a black stripe. There should be about 6 or 7 inches of the end of it
hanging freely from the harness. It is just behind and to the right of the fuse cluster. (It is not
necessary to remove any dash panels to access the wire - the dash is removed in the picture for
clarity.)
The best way to feed the extension wire is to first feed it from the top corner of the dash, at the A-
pillar. The A-pillar trim will most likely need to be removed. Once the wire is fed down behind the
dash, use a butt-connector to attach the 2 wire ends.
Run the wire up the A-Pillar and tuck the remaining wire up into the front of the headliner, along the
windshield.
Testing the range, I found that it increased at least double it's previous range. The increase is not
staggering, by any means, but it is improved. I estimate that I now have a range of 35 to 40 feet.
Dash Take-Apart Instructions
By: MTB_taco, MadAktion, Jeff
These instructions will help you take your dash apart to gain access to the instrument cluster and
stereo receiver. Always pay attention to the disassembly procedure to remember how to re-
assemble the dash.
Tools Needed:

Stubby
Phillips Head
Screwdriver
Small
Hook
Tool
OR
Flat Head
Screwdriver
Phillips Head
Screwdriver
10mm Nut
Driver or
Socket
1: Remove all of the temperature control knobs, including the A/C button (95-00 models).
Using a small hook or a flat-head screwdriver, carefully pull the control panel straight out. It will pop
out with a slight tug.

2: Remove two phillips head screws from behind temperature control panel.
3: Remove ashtray and remove the phillips head screw on upper right side
4: Carefully remove center black dash molding. This can be easily done by grabbing the
plastic between the vents and the temperature controls and pulling toward you and slightly down. It

will pop out with a slight tug.
5: Disconnect the air bag harness, if applicable.
At this point, you have access to the stereo receiver. The stereo brackets are attached using 4
10mm bolts. These bolts also have a phillips head, but it is recommended that you use a 10mm
socket to remove them.
If you wish to gain access to the instrument cluster, continue reading...
6: Remove the (4) 10mm nuts from the dash molding below the steering wheel. Unscrew the
Phillips screw under the left vent.

7: Remove 2 phillips screws that hold the hood release mechanism in place. Manuver the
hood release lever free from the dash molding. (The hood release lever may be left in place for the
dash panel to lay in the floorboard, if desired)
8: Carefully pull off the panel. There are clips holding the left side, which will pop off with a
slight tug. If you are accessing the instrument cluster, this panel does not need to be completely
removed, but rather just dropped down.

9: Now, remove the clock and keyhole panel. It will pop straight off with a slight tug.
10:Next unscrew the black trim around the gauges. There are two screws under the upper
panel of the gauge trim panel. This is where the stubby Phillips head screwdriver comes in handy.

11: Next pull the gauge trim out. Pull gently and take care not to pull too hard. If you have a tilt
steering wheel, make sure it is tilted all the way down. There are several clips that will pop out with
a slight tug.

12: As you pull the gauge trim panel out, disconnect any applicable accesory harnesses:
hazard flashers, ECT, clutch start cancel, rear locker, and the dimmer switch.

13: Remove the 4 phillips screws that hold the instrument cluster in place. There are two on
each side.
14: Pull the instrument cluster partially out and disconnect the 3 wiring harnesses and
remove cluster
To gain access under the dash on the passenger side, remove the 2 Phillips head screws just
beneath the glove box. Unlatch the glove box and take it out.
Disable the flashing seat belt light
IMPORTANT! ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SEATBELT!
This mod is strictly for disabling the flashing light - not intended for operating your truck without
wearing your seatbelt. This mod is only posted due to frequent inquiry.
For whatever reason, you may wish to disable the flashing fasten seat belt light in your dash. Here is
a very quick and simple solution.
Underneath the driver seat, there is a set of wires that connect to the seat belt latch. Just beneath
the carpet, the wire is connected with a connector. Simply unplug the connector.

To reverse the mod, re-connect the connector.
Alternate procedure for Power Lumbar Seats:
For those of you who have the luxury of power lumbar seats, disconnecting the wires will disable
your lumbar. As an alternative, locate the 2 wires leading to the seat belt latch, at the side of the
seat. Cut one of the wires to disable the light. It is highly recommended to install protective quick-
disconnect butt-connectors to the ends of the snipped wires for easy re-activation. Additionally, it is
recommended to apply electrical tape to the ends of the disconnected wires.
Change the Backlight Color of Your Gauges
By: AFP520
First, to access your instrument cluster, follow the Dash Take-Apart Instructions.
Once you have access to the back side of your instrument cluster, you will find (4) 194 bulbs. Simply
swap out those bulbs with any 194 type you want.
I used Polarg B1 Hybrid 194 Xenon bulbs and I am very pleased with the results.
Before putting your dash all back together, I recommend testing the lights to make sure they work.
Also, don't forget to hook the dimmer switch back up. Otherwise, the lights won't work at all.
White-Faced Climate Control Panel
By: AFP520

Here's a quick install demonstration for a Nu Image white face climate control panel.
Here is the stock control panel compared to the new panel.
The panel is like an adhesive sticker, but it does not mount over the factory panel.
The factory black piece is simply mounted with adhesive backing. Use a small flathead screwdriver
to pop it out a bit and it comes right off.

Carefully and slowly apply the new white face control panel.

There you have it... a new white face climate control panel.
Program your factory keyless entry functions
For 2001+ Tacomas equipped with a factory alarm or keyless entry, here are some programming
options that allow you to adjust the way your locks work.
The first programming option allows you to set the entry unlock to: (A) unlock the driver door with
one push, and the remaining doors with a second push OR (B) unlock all of the doors with a single
push.
Open the driver's door. Remove the key from the ignition switch.
(Complete these steps within 40 seconds)
Insert the key into and remove it from the ignition switch 2 times.
(IN - OUT - IN - OUT)
Close, then open the driver's door 2 times.

(SHUT - OPEN - SHUT - OPEN)
Insert the key into and remove it from the ignition switch 1 time.
(IN - OUT)


Insert the key into the ignition switch and leave it in.
Close the driver's door.
Turn the key from LOCK to ON 4 times, ending at LOCK

(LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK)
Wait for the locks to stop, then remove the key from the ignition switch.
On the key fob, press and release both LOCK and UNLOCK buttons at the same time.
[For all doors unlock] press and release the UNLOCK button.
[For driver door unlock] press and release the LOCK button.
Open the driver's door. The programming is complete. If programming did not occur, start over.
The second programming option allows you to set the doors to lock when when the key is turned on,
and unlock when the key is turned off.
Open the driver's door. Remove the key from the ignition switch.
(Complete these steps within 30 seconds)
Insert the key into the ignition switch.

Turn the key from LOCK to ON 5 times, ending at ON

(LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON)
Programming option (select one of the following).
[Ignition controlled lock ON] Close the driver's door.
[Ignition controlled lock OFF] Close the driver's door twice, leaving it closed.
(SHUT - OPEN - SHUT)
Turn the key to LOCK. The programming is complete. If programming did not occur, start over.
When performing the programming, the park lights may or may not flash to confirm that the
program was accepted. The only way to confirm the programming is to test them to see if they are
functioning as desired.

These procedures may or may not apply to pre-2001 models.
You can also find an official Toyota TSB on this topic by viewing this PDF.
2003 Keyless Entry System Upgrade
By: Randy Hobart
If you have a 2003 Tacoma equipped with the factory Keyless Entry system, this simple tip will
upgrade it to a fully functional alarm.
(This tip has only been successfully tested on 2003 models - older models may not have the proper
wiring configuration)
When Toyota builds their 2003 Tacoma, the Keyless Entry system is installed with all of the basic
components required for the Alarm upgrade. In fact, the only component that needs to be added is
the glass-breakage sensor. (This is a small dash-mounted component that also includes an LED
warning light)
The glass-breakage sensor and LED are not required for the Alarm to function.
Follow this simple step to convert the Keyless Entry into an Alarm...
(In the photos, the lower dash panel has been removed for clarity - the lower dash panel does not
need to be removed to access the wiring)
Under the driver-side dash, just to the left of the steering column, locate a single-pin connector and
disconnect it. This connector is taped up to the wiring harness.

Leave the connector disconnected and re-tape it back against the wiring to secure it.
THATS IT! A free Alarm upgrade.
A note about the alarm functionality:
This modification converts your keyless entry system into an alarm that functions the same as the
Toyota factory alarm, with the exception of a glass-breakage sensor. The factory alarm is NOT
equipped with a motion sensor or a shock sensor. This means that your alarm will trigger only if:
(1) the doors are forcibly or manually unlocked and opened without the key
(2) power is disconnected (and then re-connected) from the battery
(3) an attempt is made to start the vehicle without the key
Furthermore, if the alarm is triggered, the security system will disable the starter and continually
attempt to lock the doors if they are unlocked.
This modification is simply a FREE upgrade. If you are in need of a more sophisticated alarm
system, it is recommended that you look into purchasing the actual RS3200 Plus upgrade, or an
aftermarket alarm system.

To test the new modified alarm, perform the following:
Roll down the driver side window.

Activate the alarm by
Press the power lock button in the door, then close the door, OR
Close the door, then lock the doors from the outside with the key, OR
Close the door, then press the LOCK button on the transmitter.
Wait 30 Seconds for the alarm to activate.

Reach in through the window to unlock and open the door.
The alarm should trigger.
To deactivate:
Press the UNLOCK button on the transmitter, OR

Unlock the door with the key, OR
Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to ON.
To go one step further, an aftermarket LED light may be added. (Or, the factory LED can be
purchased separately; Toyota part number 08192-3T820)
The lower dash panel will have to be removed to access the proper wiring.
In the first picture above, you will see a wire harness that T's at the base of the steering column and
folds back to the left. The loose end of that wire harness is taped up. Pull the end out where you
can access the unused 4-pin connector. This connector is where the LED/glass sensor gets plugged
in.
There are 4 wires, a black, a white, and 2 colored wires. The 2 colored wires are used for the LED.
You can splice into these 2 wires to connect an LED. (The black and white wires are for the sensor)
8/26/07
User onelowrx7 suggested that the Toyota LED/Glass breakage sensor could be installed in the
hazard light button location. Here are his notes on installing the sensor and relocating the hazzard
lights button:
The information found in your DIY Alarm Upgrade worked out great for me! Except I wanted to take
it the one step further as explained. I wanted the Toyota Factory L.E.D. / Glass Break Sensor
installed to complete the alarm system. Here is how I did it:
I ordered the part listed above (Toyota part number 08192-3T820) and when it arrived I noticed that
its OEM connectors were intact but the wiring was quite short (about 3 inches). I decided that since
my particular model came with the Rear Differential Lock Switch and the Clutch Start Cancel Switch
that the best location would be where the factory Hazard switch was located. I would have to
relocate the Hazard switch to one of the blanks located at the bottom of the dash next to the
additional 120v power outlets.
Note: if you do not have the Rear Diff Lock Switch or the Clutch Start Cancel switch, you could place
the factory LED there. The stock wiring was long enough although the connectors were all Male/Male
therefore, you would have to have splice your own no matter where you decide.
First, locate the wire that will control the LED / GB Sensor...
(Where the dotted line is – should be about where the wire ends up)

Next, un-tape the wire so that it can be relocated to your desired location. Run the unwrapped wire
up to the hazzard button's original location.

Let’s start with the LED harness since that’s the main goal here. First as the
guide above stated, there are 4 wires. 2 that go the Glass Break Sensor (these are white and black).
The other 2 are for the LED (the guide stated “colored”, mine were WHITE w/ BLACK
stripe and RED, be careful when re-connecting these).

Those factory harnesses both on the car side and on the switch side now need to be cut.
They both are male connectors and won’t mate. I chose quick connects, but you can use butt
connectors if you like.
Note: If you're simply placing this switch in a blank location near the steering wheel (where my diff
lock switch or clutch cancel switch is), you're almost done!

Now on to the Hazard switch. The wiring is only made to go to one location, but with some butt
connectors, a striper, a crimper, and some extra wire, it can go wherever you like! I chose speaker
wire because it was the right gauge and it actually worked out great. Cut the harness with a couple
inches of lead, and then strip the factory wires and attach your extra lengths.

You’ll need to thread the wiring down to the bottom of the console - this is pretty easy. I
recommend only wiring one wire at a time; there are a total of 8 wires in the hazard switch harness.
I went slowly and still made a mistake, I wired two colors backwards. The result was a hazard switch
AND turn signals that didn’t work. After checking the fuses, I went back and looked over my
wiring and found the culprit. I added some electrical tape spiraled around the wiring just to clean
things up a bit. Here's the finished product:

Rear Interior Disassembly (Double Cab)
By: Jeff
In order to perform this operation, you'll need:

- A socket set with 10-14mm sockets
- Phillips screwdriver
- Another person - for rear seat removal
- Door panel trim popper (optional)
This tutorial was written to illustrate the steps necessary to remove the interior parts from the
rear section of a double cab Tacoma. They can be used in conjuction with other articles in the
Interior category in this tech section for a full interior disassembly.
The first thing you should do is remove the sill panels. They are held in place with two

phillips screws each. Once the screws are removed, carefully pop the panels loose from the body of
the truck.
Next, you need to remove the rear seat. Make sure the area behind your rear seat is
empty, including removing the factory jack and tools.
The rear seat is held in place by two 14mm bolts in the front and 4 14mm bolts behind the seat. In
the front, you'll need to remove the trim panels to expose the bolts. In the rear, you'll need to lift
the carpet access points to reveal the bolts.
Once all 6 bolts are out, get someone to help you remove the rear seat. It's not that heavy, it's just
bulky and awkward to remove through the small rear doors.

Next, you'll want to remove the rear cup holder, which is attached under there the rear
seat was. It is attached with 4 10mm bolts.
Next, you'll want to remove the rear seat belts. On each side, there are three places
where the seat belt is attached to the truck. The first two are attached to the floor near the rear
corners of the truck. The final point is on the rear side panel. The third bolt is exposed by lifting the
plastic cover on the rotating seat belt mount.

Once the seat belts bolts are removed, carefully remove the rear interior side panel where
the third seat belt mount was. It should be held in place by 6 or 7 clips.
You'll also want to remove the trim panel directly below the rear window.
Finally, remove the 4 grocery bag hooks. Each one is attached by a phillips screw. Once

these are removed, you can remove the rear fabric panel. It should simply slide up and out.
Remove Rear Door Panels (Double Cab)
By: Jeff
In order to perform this operation, you'll need:

- A thin flathead screwdriver
First, make sure the window is rolled all the way down. This is the door panel we are
working with:

Next, you'll want to remove the door handle. Remove the single phillips screw and push
the assembly to the right to release it from the door. If you choose to remove the handle from the
opening mechanism rod, this is a good time to do that as well.
Next, remove the top of the arm rest. The arm rest pops loose by pulling slightly towards
you and up. It will most likely be very tight and a bit difficult to remove. Be careful to pull towards
you as you pull up or you may break off one of the attachment tabs.

Once the arm rest is removed, remove the two phillips screws that hold the door panel to
the door.
Now, go around the edge of the door panel and pop the door panel loose. Once the door
panel is free from the door, pull slightly up on the door panel to unhook it from the top of the door.
Before you move the door panel away from the door, make sure you disconnect the power window
wiring harness. It is located just about in the middle of the panel.
With the door panel removed, you have easy access to replace speakers, install dynomat
(pictured), or repair window/door components.

Removing Front Door Panels (01-04)
By: ParkRat
In order to perfrom this operation, you'll need the following tools:

- A thin flathead screwdriver
First, make sure the window is rolled down all the way. This is the door panel we are working
with:

Remove the black trim piece attached to the pillar. You can pry it off with a flat head
screw driver. It pops right off.
Next, pop the screw hole covers off the armrest. Again use a thin flat head screw driver
and be careful not to scratch the plastic. Remove the screws.
Next, pop the power window/door lock panel off with a flat head screw driver. Make sure
you start with the upper part close to the power mirror switches (see orange arrow). Disconnect
wires from the door locks and power window unit.

Next, remove the phillips screw holding the door handle on. Once this is done push the
door handle towards the door hinges and it will release from the door. Then you can pull on it and it
will be loose.

The door panel is held on by red plastic tabs that snap into the door itself. Using a flat
head screwdriver (or door panel removal tool) pry up on the door panel around the edges. Be
careful. They should pop out pretty easy.

At this point you should be able to lift up on the door panel and it will release from the top
edge. You may have to turn the panel a little to slide the door handle through the opening.
Disconnect the cable from the tweeter and your door panel is now off!
Door handle still attached

Disconnect tweeter harness
Naked door skin
Factory Alarm Piezo Buzzer Disable
By: Randy Hobart
Before I ever got my new Tacoma home from the dealership, there was already something I wanted
to change. I'm sure some folks don't mind this, or perhaps don't even care, but I simply can't stand
the beeeep that sounds when the factory alarm is armed and disarmed.
The official term for this component is the piezo buzzer. On some earlier models, there is a
programming function that disables the piezo. However, on newer models (2001-2004) with the
RS3200 system, the programming function is not applicable. I even went as far as to ask the
dealership if there was a way to turn it off. Nope, you can't turn it off. That simply wasn't good

enough for me, so I was compelled to figure it out on my own.
The piezo buzzer is located under the hood, between the battery and the driver side fender. You will
most likely need to loosen the battery to get your hand in between. There is a little tweeter looking
device connected to the wiring harness - it may or may not be wrapped with thin foam padding.
Simply unplug the piezo connector to disable it. For added protection, I would advise that you use
electrical tape to cover the exposed connectors.
Now you can enjoy your alarm in peace. This component is the same for both the keyless entry
system and the fully functional alarm system for 2001-2004 Tacomas. Some models may differ - you
can try the following instructions to see if your system accepts the programming before
disconnecting the piezo.
The aforementioned method most likely may not work for 95-00 models (and possibly 2001 models)
with the RS3000 keyless/security system. Instead, try these programming instructions for your pre-
01:
Insert the key into the ignition switch, and turn it to ON (not ACC).
Using 1 remote transmitter, press and hold both LOCK and UNLOCK buttons at the same time for
over 2 seconds until the status monitor's LED lights up.
Select the operating mode (Complete these steps within 30 seconds)

PIEZO OFF - Press and release the transmitter's UNLOCK button once.
(The Piezo chirps once and the lights flash once.)
PIEZO ON - Press and release the transmitter's UNLOCK button twice.

(The Piezo chirps twice and the lights flash twice.)
Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK position.

(The Piezo chirps 3 times and the lights flash 3 times.)
Seat Installations I: Transplanting Seats Into Your Truck
By: Enola Gaia

The stock Toyota seats are common objects of complaint among Taco owners. As a result, there
are often questions about installing alternative seats in Tacos. One option is to transplant better
seats from another vehicle into your truck.
This file documents some information about the installation process involved in such transplants,
based on experiences reported on the Web. This is not a FAQ about the seats themselves - it is a
summary set of info and pointers to info on installations and install-related data.
There have been claims of many more installations than are listed below. That's because this listing
is limited to pointing you to substantial info on how those installations were accomplished.
Although this compilation was intended to concentrate on the 95.5 - 04 Tacomas, decent info /
writeups on earlier pre-Tacos are included as well.
NOTE: For information about mounting new aftermarket seats into your Tacoma, see the related
tech article Seat Installations II.
Option 1: Installing Stock Seats from Another Toyota Truck
Let's start with the most straightforward transplant you can try: Seats from a Tacoma / pickup of
the same generation as yours should bolt into your Taco with no modification - provided they use
the same mounting scheme as your stock seats.
The two mounting schemes used in trucks / Tacos
For Toyota trucks up through the 2004 Tacomas there are two types of mounts used for the front
seats. One type is the mount set used for the single-piece bench seat in the Regular Cab models.
The other is the mount set used for the 60/40 split bench seat and the buckets in all Tacoma models.
The specifics of these two mounting schemes seem to remain consistent within each of the Toyota
truck generations (e.g., 1989 - 1995 pre-Tacos; 1995.5 - 2004 Tacos, etc.). However, they are not
consistent across generations, even for the same type of seats.
For all generations, there are no more than 8 stock holes (or molded hole locations) in the cab (4
per side). In some cases (especially the single-piece bench seats) seats are factory installed using
fewer than the available 8 holes. Any unused holes will be either (a) pre-drilled but plugged or (b)
not drilled out. Unused holes will not have a nut on the underside (like the ones that get used).
Swapping between Taco / truck 60/40 split bench and bucket seats

Generally speaking, you can swap 60/40's and Tacoma buckets easily, because they use the same
mount layout. This is pretty much guaranteed to be a straightforward swap so long as the seats are
from the same generation of truck / Taco.
However, the 60/40 brackets and the bucket brackets (and in some cases the seats themselves)
aren't of identical height. This means you may have to do some modding / fabbing to match your
original seat height.
Swapping between Taco / truck single (one-piece) bench and bucket seats
The most common factory seat swap people ask about is replacement of a single-piece bench seat
in a Regular Cab with factory buckets.
The single bench mount set is not sufficient for mounting either a 60/40 split bench or a pair of
Tacoma buckets into your Tacoma / pickup. Depending on your truck's generation, the basic bench
seat may be mounted using as few as 4 and a maximum of 6 bolts. Toyota truck buckets require 8
bolts (4 per seat).
You should never install seats using fewer bolts than the mounting scheme is designed for. If there
is provision for 4 bolts per side, use all 4. Three bolts and wishful thinking may not be enough to
keep your butt in place during an impact.
In the worst case, you may have to drill holes in your floorboard to accommodate the additional
bolts. In the best case, you may be able to use an existing bolt hole with no more effort than
removing a plug or drilling through the factory-molded location.
In our forum, Richie Rich has provided a good writeup on his bench-to-bucket swap in a '96 Regular
Cab:
FWIW, I just got done putting buckets out of a 2000 extra cab into my 96 Tacoma.
Out of the 8 bolt holes needed, 6 of them were lined up and ready to go. I had to lift the carpet up
to find the front inners but they were there. Just cut some small holes in the carpet for the bolts and
you are good to go.
The outer rears lined up perfectly but the bolts from the bench seat were too short.
The inner rears were the only real work. You would think they would bolt to the holes left vacant by
the seatbelt buckles from the bench seat but they don't. They actually bolt to the trans tunnel.
Toyota at least stamped the location of the holes on the floorpan. All I had to do was punch the
centers of the spots and drill em out.
Since there are no nuts welded to the underside of the floor at those locations I had to use nuts. Be
sure to use large, thick washers on the underside of the floor, I had to get out the BFH to give the
washers a nice curve to match the trans tunnel. Oh yeah, use lock washers too, so they don't work
loose.
One more thing, out of the 6 bolts that hold the bench seat and seatbelts in, you can only reuse two
of them - the fronts.
I had some extra front bolts in my magic bolt can, I reused the seatbelt anchor bolts as the inside
rears. The only thing I had to get were 2 nuts for the inside rears and two longer bolts for the outer
rears. It was about $6 for the hardware at the local Toyota dealer. I am sure I could have saved
money by going to a hardware store but did not feel like trying a bunch of crap that wouldn't fit.
With the seats two notches from the rear, they can be reclined two notches backwards. Very comfy
compared to my bench, and much more stylish.
Option 2: Installing Stock Seats from Other Vehicles
In general, any seats physically capable of fitting within your cab are candidates for transplants.
Besides those for which substantial install info is listed below, I've found specific claims (and in some
cases even photos) of transplants involving seats taken from: Acura NSX, Camaro Z28, Chevy S-10,

Honda Accord, Honda Prelude, Nissan Sentra, Pontiac FireBird, Toyota MR2, and Volvo S80.
Once you go outside the Toyota mini-truck family to get your transplant seats, your biggest hassles
will be with the mounts / brackets / sliders. It is fair to say that the mounts beneath the seats will
end up causing you more headaches than the seats themselves. In some cases, you may be able to
graft the other seats onto your stock mounting brackets. In other cases, you may need to modify
the other seats' mounts and use them.
Odds are you'll be doing some custom fabrication / surgery in transplanting seats from other
vehicles. One reason is that such seats will probably have mounting hardware peculiar to their
original vehicle. This means you aren't likely to be able to fall back on simply buying a stock
aftermarket bracket as you can when dealing with (e.g.) Sparco, Corbeau, or Recaro aftermarket
seats. There are cases where this will work - all I'm saying is that you cannot assume it will always
work.
The entries below offer info and pointers to info on transplants of other vehicles' seats into Toyota
Tacomas / pickups. The entries are organized by brand of seats transplanted, and listed
alphabetically by (car) brand name.
Acura Integra Seats
http://www.wildyoats.com/cheap_tricks.htm
This is a very brief writeup about swapping buckets from a 1988 Acura Integra into a Toyota truck
(not clear what year truck).
http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=36057
A YotaTech post containing a brief summary plus a photo of 1989 Acura Integra seats swapped into
a 1990 Toyota XtraCab.
Honda Civic Seats
Here at CustomTacos, 3Point4Tacoma writes of a seat swap into his 1996 XtraCab:
The 2 front holes damn near matched. I had to take a hammer to the seat brackets and hammer
them to the right angle. Then, I took a drill and widened the holes on the front brackets. For the
back, I just had to drill 2 new holes and bolt them up since the civic tracks were a little shorter. I
didn't do anything to plug the old holes up other than put the old bolts back in it's place.
Honda CRX Si Seats
In this thread, ToY SpD provides some experiences and photos from his install of CRX Si seats into
his 1994 Regular Cab.
Mitsubishi Eclipse Seats
ENOSHbeatpuppet (96 Tacoma owner) wrote at CustomTacos:

I put some 96 eclipse seats in my truck. The back of the seat is a little lower, but its fine for now.
Bolted 1 in front and 2 in back, w/ homemade brackets. (just flat pieces of metal and made the
seats fit w/ some creativity).
Subaru Seats
COMMENT (YotaTech) from an 82 Toyota truck owner:
I put 87 subaru bucket seats in my 82. I found out that 79-83 bucket seat brackets bolt right up to
the subaru seat no modifying mounting holes. Those seats are way more comfortable then toyota
seats and a lot eaiser to find.
Toyota 4Runner Seats
Some (but not all) 4Runner seats in some generations will also bolt into your Taco with little or no
major modification required. Typically, you can get 3 of the 4 bolts / holes to line up 'as is'.
4Runner seats are one of the most commonly-cited transplants cited - especially at offroad sites
such as YotaTech and Tacoma Territory. However, there are almost no substantial write-ups on the
transplant process. The most you'll find is illustrated by this comment from a 2004 Taco XtraCab
owner at YotaTech: I got seats out of a 94 or 95 SR5 4-Runner. All but the front inside bolts bolt
right up. They are great.
In October 2004, the following write-up appeared in a pair of postings (by a 'Greavous') to the
Tacoma Territory forum:
I have seats from a 98 limited 4runner and they fit perfectly. They are power and leather and also
match the oak interior like they came in it in 2001. All of the Tacoma seats will swap into any
Tacoma up to 2004. I have no idea what 05 does. My 01 60/40 bench was removed and bolted
straight into a 96 tacoma.
The only Mod that had to be done to the runner seats is the front outer bracket on a runner is kinda
horizontal and the Taco's is turned down almost 90 degrees. I taped off the paint to prevent
damaging/chipping and tapped it over into place with a BFH. Elongate the hole in the bracket with a
1/2 drill bit and bolt it up. I also installed a console which used factory screws at the front and I used
a block riser and some screws into the floor pan to secure the rear.
Here's a pic but I get these things dicked up from time to time. Hope it works.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/cmscow@swbell.net/detail?.dir=5282&.dnm=ee17.jpg ...
Well after I posted I recalled a couple things. First and most important is the seat belts. I found that
the latches from the 98's didn't quite click like the originals and transplanted the originals onto the
runner seats. When my bench went into the 96 the same issue arose. The latches just bolt up but if
you have the 01 bench with a folding armrest you have to dig a little to get to them. No biggie but
you need to know about it.
Second thing was wiring the seats. I used a battery charger and was able to power the seats up on
my workbench and determine what needed to get the 12 v. and ground. The ground I ran to the
closest seat mounting bolt. And the 12+ came from an add-a-fuse dooie I got at the Zone. It simply
replaces one of the fuses and has 2 fuse ports (one for the original and one for the new) and a pigtail
hanging off it.
There won't be an armrest with the seats so a console is also needed in my book.
Toyota Car (Non-Truck) Seats (In General)

Besides other pickup and SUV models in the Toyota family, the next-closest fits are Toyota buckets
from Toyota cars. Known candidates for transplants include: MR2, Camry, Corolla, and Celica. In
the best case, 3 of the 4 mounting holes will line up, and you'll need to improvise to make the fourth
bolt connection.
I've found questions asked concerning the possibility of swapping Matrix seats into a Tacoma, but
no evidence that anyone's actually done it.
Toyota Camry Seats
http://www.CustomTacos.com/forum/showthread.php?p=322738
MikeB's September 2004 report (with photos) talks about transplanting 2001 Camry buckets into his
Regular Cab Tacoma. This was the first documented transplant of Camry buckets into a Taco.
Toyota Celica Seats
Celica seats are the Toyota family seats most commonly mentioned as candidates for transplanting
into street Tacomas. These are also the transplants that have been best documented.
http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/mods/Celica%20seat%20install/
Two pages of photos about the process of getting Celica seats into a Tacoma. Good illustrations,
but no instructions / commentary to go along with it. (from TTORA Northern California chapter)
http://ttora-ne.net/CT/Celica_Seat_Swap/index.html
Some photos and a few tips for getting Celica seats into a '99 Tacoma XtraCab. Not much in the
way of detailed instructions or commentary. (from TTORA New England chapter)
http://www.CustomTacos.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=116763
VRacer111 (CustomTacos) provides photos and comments about his installation of 2000 Celica
GT seats into his 1998 Tacoma XtraCab. As he summarized the process in a later thread:
For the celica seats you take the floor brackets from the tacoma 60/40 split bench or bucket
seats and put them on the Celica rails. This involves cutting, grinding, adding spacer blocks to the
outside drivers side rail, and welding - but it is so worth the effort to get rid of the horrible stock
seating.
This CustomTacos thread contains good info contributed by multiple people who swapped
Celica seats into their Tacos.
RevHard6's discussion of what it took to get Celica buckets into his 2000 XtraCab Taco.
This includes discussion about how to account for the height difference between the Taco's 60/40
and bucket brackets.
RustStang78's photos and factoids about his installation of '03 Celica seats in his 1996

Regular Cab, using Sparco brackets.
Toyota Corolla Seats
Corolla seats tend to be wider (and hence more accommodating to the larger driver) than Celica
seats. There are multiple claims about, and isolated photos of, Corolla seat installs to be found in
various Toyota truck forums. However, I could locate no write-ups on the install procedure.
Toyota SUV Seats (In General)
I've found questions asked concerning the possibility of swapping RAV4 and Sequoia seats into a
Tacoma, but no hard evidence that anyone's actually done it.
Toyota Tundra Seats
I've found questions asked concerning the possibility of swapping Tundra seats into a Tacoma, but
no hard evidence that anyone's actually done it.
Volvo Seats
http://ttora-ne.new/newsite/new_england_ttora_volvo_seat_swa.htm
This is a write-up on putting 2000 Volvo S40 buckets into a 2002 Tacoma Double Cab. It includes a
good set of install photos, but not much in the way of instructions. (from TTORA New England
chapter)
Volvo seats are often mentioned as candidates for transplants. This one NE TTORA write-up is the
only one I can find explaining how anyone's actually done it.
Seat Installations II: Installing Aftermarket Seats
Seat Installations II: New Aftermarket Seats By: Enola Gaia
In recent years, Toyota has consistently been awarded high marks by J D Power and Associates for
their seating. These awards have been based more on rated quality of the seats (as objects) than
these seats' quality at cradling the riders. In fact, the stock Toyota seats are common objects of
complaint among Taco owners. As a result, there are often questions about installing alternative
seats in Tacos.
This file documents some information about aftermarket seat installation options and issues, based
on experiences and products documented on the Web. This is not a FAQ about the seats themselves
- it is a summary set of pointers to info on installations and install-related data.
NOTE: For information about mounting seats from other vehicles into your Tacoma, see the related
tech article Seat Installations I.
Some Basics / Background

If you want to install new aftermarket seats, you'll face more problems with the mounts / brackets /
sliders and the installation procedure than with the seat selection itself. Some aftermarket seat
manufacturers (e.g., Sparco, Recaro) offer mounting brackets for installing their products in a variety
of vehicle models. However, Toyota Tacomas are not one of the more commonly-offered models.
This means that installing aftermarket seats can involve as much improvisation as transplanting
seats from other vehicles.
A lot of confusion relates to exactly what mounting hardware is necessary. Here are some basic
facts you need to know...
What stock mounting hardware is used in Tacomas?
Stock Toyota truck seat mounts typically are made up of two individual pieces which jointly serve as
both (a) the base connecting the seat assembly to the floor and (b) the adjustable sliding tracks that
permit the seats to be moved forward and backward. These pieces are usually separate (left and
right for a given seat), and they may not be interconnected except by the structure of the seat itself.
How big a deal are the brackets and sliders?
Selecting and obtaining the seats is the easy part... Getting them mounted into your truck is the
part that'll have you tearing your hair out. There are countless postings in car and truck forums
illustrating how owners screwed themselves by not giving proper consideration to installation
matters when acquiring cool new seats.
Another factor is cost. To completely replace your Toyota factory mounting hardware will require a
base and sliders. Depending on the manufacturer and vendor, this can run you anywhere from
around $80 to $200 per seat. For lower- and mid-range seats, the cost of installation hardware can
become a sizeable portion of the overall price. Do your homework up front, and you won't get
blindsided...
Isn't there just one general kind of mounting arrangement?

No, there's not.
There are 2 different ways in which most aftermarket street seats are designed to be attached to
their mounts. The more common type for street-style seats is a bottom mount arrangement. This
means that the seat's underside is designed to attach to a bracket or slider below. The other type is
a side mount arrangement, in which the seat is supposed to attach to mounting brackets on either
side of the seat frame. Side mounts are mainly used for racing-style seats with a rigid shell.
In general, if you want the seats to slide forward and backward, you will want a bottom mount
arrangement. Either bottom mounts or side mounts can be used if you want a static seat position
(no sliding). Side mounts are pretty much limited to static seat positioning.
You will need to be clear about the mounting arrangement that your new seats are designed for.
Usually, aftermarket seats are designed for either side or bottom mounting. There are rare
examples (of racing-style seats or shells) where you can use either a side or bottom mount.
These are not the only mounting arrangements that you may encounter. For serious off-road
purposes, there are some seats which are designed to be mounted using a suspension pedestal or
even a rigid platform attached to the cab wall or a roll cage.
What mounting hardware is offered in the aftermarket?
The mounting hardware offered by aftermarket suppliers can vary. In most cases, however,
there will be two distinct pieces or units available to replace the functionality of the stock Toyota
mounts:
Base / Bracket
When someone refers to a 'base', 'bracket', or 'mounting bracket', they usually mean a rigid
metal frame that bolts to the vehicle floor and provides a foundation onto which the seat is itself
fastened. In other words, the 'bracket' is usually just the fixed 'stand' onto which a seat can be
attached. By itself, a 'bracket' doesn't necessarily give you the ability to slide the seat backward

and forward. The most common brackets are rectangular metal frames with bolt holes configured to
match the vehicle's interior mounting scheme.
NOTE:Tacoma aftermarket brackets are of the 'tabbed' variety. This means that the bolt holes are
in the ends of 'tabs' extending from the main part of the bracket assembly. In most cases,
aftermarket brackets are single pieces that replace the separate base elements that make up the
stock Tacoma seat mounts.
Slider
When someone refers to a 'slider', they usually mean a separate frame or structure that sits
between the seat base and the seat. The slider has tracks permitting movement - allowing the seat
to go backward and forward relative to the base. By itself, a 'slider' doesn't give you the ability to
attach the seat to the floor. By the same token, the slider has to fit onto the base and the seat.
You should be careful to figure out whether you want / need 'brackets', 'sliders', or both. In some
cases, sliders aren't an option, because the manufacturer has designed its seats for fixed
positioning. In some cases, sliders and brackets are combined and sold as single retail items. In
some cases, retailers only list brackets and never mention sliders (or vice versa). Even the
manufacturers themselves contribute to the confusion. Some of their websites list both brackets
and sliders together, while others hide one or the other (almost always the sliders) under a separate
'Accessories' category.
Can't I just get by with 'universal' hardware?

There's no such thing as a single truly 'universal' mount! There are multiple kinds of brackets
(e.g., 'flat' versus 'tabbed'), and no single bracket can be expected to work for all vehicles. The
Toyota Tacoma floor is uniquely contoured, and 'universal brackets' are not likely to work without
significant modification or fabbing. 'Universal' sliders will have to fit both the seat and the mounting
bracket, so they are another component that may need to be modified to get the install done.
Finally, different manufacturers' seats vary in their bottom structure and mounting points. This
means that whatever you're fastening to them (whether bracket or slider) may not always fit.
There may be a slider or a bracket that is 'universal' for a specific set of seats from a specific
manufacturer (or a group of manufacturers all of whose seats are closely similar), but nothing that's
'universal' for all vehicles. Separate sliders can be 'universal' only within the limits of particular
seats and / or brackets. Furthermore, there's nothing that's 'universal' to all Toyota trucks. Cab
bolt configurations are different for single bench seats versus the 60/40 split benches / buckets, and
pre-Tacos are different from Tacos.
In other words, the only thing guaranteed to be 'universal' is the hassle involved in mixing 'n'
matching bases, sliders, and so forth to get your particular seats in your specific truck.
Who can I turn to?

Naturally, the only way to assure 'universal installations' is to fab the mounts yourself. Unless
you are comfortable with DIY surgery, you may want to check with a specialty shop to see if they
can fabricate something to save you time and hassle. Some alternatives are:
Wedge Engineering in Long Beach CA (http://wedgeengineering.net) specializes in

fabricating seat brackets.
Speedware Motorsports in Redmond WA (http://www.speedwaremotorsports.com) does

custom installations, and they offer custom bracket fabrication services.
Your friendly local metal fabrication shop can probably make or modify brackets to serve
your needs.
Installing New Aftermarket Seats

The remainder of this tech article offers pointers to info on installing new aftermarket seats. There
are many manufacturers and brand names of aftermarket seats, ranging from mass market knock-
offs to high-end ergonomic and professional racing models. The listings will be limited to
information on known installations and pointers to install-related resources offered by the best-
known manufacturers. The entries are listed in alphabetical order by manufacturer name.
Beard Seats
Beard (a subsidiary of Redart) makes suspension seats that are popular with hardcore off-roaders.
As such, their seats are more or less a distinct species from the usual racing and / or sports seats on
the market.
Beard has recently introduced a line of Toyota mounting kits as follows:
Toyota '84-'88 Std Cab Kit

Toyota '89-'95 Std Cab Kit
Toyota '95-'02 Tacoma Std. & Crew cab
Because the Beard seats are designed for rough off-road duty, they are not as adjustable as other
seats. On the other hand, their bucket designs are roomier than the racing-style buckets offered by
others. Because these are suspension seats, you need to know that they tend to mount 'taller' than
sport or racing seats (i.e., you'll probably be sitting higher than in your stock seats). Though they
originally designed for fixed installation, Beard now offers sliders for their seats.
NOTE: These suspension seats' mounting arrangements are quite distinct from the usual mounts.
You may need to do some advance research to make sure what's involved.
Beard Install (Custom-Built)
http://www.fourwheeler.com/projectbuild/129_0211_priz/
This is a Four Wheeler Magazine writeup on the installation of custom Beard buckets into their 40th
Anniversary Tacoma Double Cab. It provides some photos and some brief comments.
Beard install (Super-Style Racing Model)
http://www.jordansrealm.com/121212beard.htm
This is a pretty good overview (with photos) of what's necessary to install the Beard Super Styles in
a Tacoma XtraCab. It was compiled by the Taco's owner.
Corbeau Seats
Corbeau makes a series of street and racing bucket seats. Corbeau is one of the few manufacturers
to offer factory mounting hardware for installing them in Toyota trucks.
The Corbeau Master Bracket Guide lists the following brackets for Toyota pickups:
PICKUP 76-78 Driver = D362T / Passenger = D363T PICKUP 79-83 Driver = C22028 /
Passenger = C22028 PICKUP 84-88 Driver = C22023L / Passenger = C22023R PICKUP 89-95
(BENCH) Driver = D952T / Passenger = D953T PICKUP 89-95 (BUCKET) Driver = C22046L /

Passenger = C22046R TACOMA (BENCH 60/40) 95+ Driver = E1104T / Passenger = E1105T
TACOMA (BENCH) 95+ Driver = D1102T / Passenger = D1103T
Corbeau Seat Install (A4's)
ToyComa gives some basics on his install of Corbeau A4's in a Regular Cab.
'eBay' Racing-Style Seats
This is admittedly a 'catch-all' category. A variety of sellers are offering multiple different kinds of
'racing seats' on eBay. These are no-brand-name seats, and it's anybody's guess who made them or
how good they are. Some of these offerings carry 'TRD' emblems or stitch-ons, even though it's
pretty obvious Toyota Racing Development had nothing to do with their design or manufacture.
If you prowl through enough of the listings, it becomes apparent that there is some duplication
among the seats. They appear to have a 'family resemblance' to branded seats offered by (e.g.)
APC and other retailers, but it's impossible to pin down a firm ID.
Some of these seats are offered with 'universal brackets' or 'universal sliders'. Buyer beware - as
mentioned above, there's no such thing. You'll be needing to do some form of improvisation /
fabbing / modding to get these seats into your truck.
eBay 'TRD' Seat Install (Tacoma Territory, Oct. 2004)
http://forums.delphiforums.com/tacomaterritory/messages?msg=119611.16
Tacoma Territory subscriber toyotanas wrote:
... I purchased them off Ebay and thought I was up shit creek without a paddle. Well I
managed to modify a seat bracket for the corbeau seats, which I bought off truckperformance.com.
When I got the bracket which fits in the original holes perfectly I just had to drill 4 new holes and I
was good to go because the seat came with universal sliders. ...
Notice that toyotanas ended up buying Corbeau seat brackets to modify for his installation.
König Seats
NOTE:Technically, the name is 'König'. You'll often find them cited as 'Konig' or 'Koenig'. They
apparently gave up and use the Anglicized spelling for their U.S. subsidiary's title.
Koenig USA is the North American retail representative for this European manufacturer of high-
quality racing and ergonomic seats. If you're interested in sophisticated ergonomic seating, König is
the only real competition Recaro has in that market segment.
Information on König seat installation requirements is sparse on the Web. It is clear, however, that
installation involves one or two items per seat:
A König seat adapter (base / bracket) for the given vehicle (required)
A König slider unit (optional)

Koenig USA doesn't offer a listing of available brackets on their website. In a summer 2004
telephone contact, Koenig USA advised me they do have a stock adapter for the 1995 - 2004
Tacomas.
MasterCraft Seats
MasterCraft makes a series of serious racing bucket seats. They are highly regarded in some
circles, but they're not commonly mentioned as candidates for installation in Toyota trucks.
MasterCraft's own website is very limited, and it's not a good source of data on their products. You
can find out more by prowling vendor sites.
Once such vendor - Macromotive - lists the following mounting apparatus for 2000 - 2002 Tacomas:
#6310Dr = Driver Side mounting kit

#6310Pass = Passenger Side mounting kit
#6030 = Seat Slider (required for each seat)
NOTE: No, I don't know for sure whether these are MasterCraft's own model numbers.
NOTE: This listing for '2000 - 2002' Tacomas was the only confirmed Toyota truck mounting
hardware I could locate. I don't know for sure what MasterCraft may offer for other Toyota truck
models / years.
MOMO Seats
MOMO USA offers a series of racing-style bucket seats. However, the only mounting hardware they
offer are 'base slides' (sliders). These slides are not vehicle-specific, so it would appear they are to
be grafted onto an existing or fabricated base or bracket during installation.
I've seen isolated references to MOMO seats being considered for installation into Tacomas, but no
hard evidence of it having been done.
Recaro Seats
Recaro is perhaps the most prestigious name in vehicle seating, offering both racing and ergonomic
products. Information on these products can be obtained at their North American subsidiary and
their Main (German) websites.
Information on Recaro seat installation requirements is sparse on the Web. There are isolated
photos of Recaro seats installed in Toyota pickups / Tacomas, but I've been unable to find any
detailed write-ups on the installation procedures used. There are, however, detailed write-ups to be
found on the Web in forums dedicated to other makes of cars such as BMW and VW.
Installing Recaro seats involves one or two items per seat:
A mounting bracket for the given vehicle (required)

A Recaro slider unit (optional)

Recaro themselves only offer the following brackets / bases for Toyota (pre-Taco) trucks:
Pickup 2-4 WD Bucket 84 - 88 Driver = 1.44.3 / Passenger = 2.44.3
Pickup 4 WD Extended Cab Bench and Bucket 89 - 94 Driver = 1.90.3 /

Passenger = 2.90.3
Pickup 2WD Bucket or Bucket 89 - 94 Driver = 1.90.3 / Passenger = 2.90.3
In late summer 2004 I called Recaro Customer Service to ask about brackets for installing Recaros
into a 2004 Tacoma. They referred me to Wedge Engineering. Wedge was able to get me the
bracket in one week (using their 'rush order' option).
Recaro offers two types of sliders. One is a fixed / basic model. For not that much more, you can
get a 'height-adjustable' model. This one has three different sets of mounting holes you can use to
vary the height of the slider when you attach it to the base / bracket.
Sparco Seats
Sparco makes a series of racing-style bucket seats, and they're one of the few manufacturers to
offer the mounting hardware for installing them in our trucks.
Toyota pickups and Tacomas require a 'tabbed' mounting base - one that is suspended on vertical
or angled 'tab' feet. Mounting Sparco seats requires 4 items per seat:
A Sparco base unit (in our case, a 500-series base)

A Sparco 500 series adapter (for fitting)
A Sparco slider unit (Sparco part number 00493)
A Sparco hardware kit (part number 50001), or equivalent
NOTE: There have been some complaints that the number of separate components involved in
Sparco's mounting scheme leads to higher retail costs for using their seats. Be careful to take this
into consideration...
Of these, it is the base unit which is model-specific. As of October 2004, Sparco listed the following
base units for sale:
500622 BASE TOYOTA PICKUP 84-88 L

500623 BASE TOYOTA PICKUP 84-88 R
500972 BASE TOYOTA PICKUP 89-94 L
500973 BASE TOYOTA PICKUP 89-94 R
5001102 BASE TOYOTA TACOMA L BENCH
5001103 BASE TOYOTA TACOMA R BENCH
5001104 BASE TOYOTA TACOMA L OEM BUCKET
5001105 BASE TOYOTA TACOMA R OEM BUCKET
Sparco offers a PDF file with tabbed base seat installation instructions (including a diagram of the
mounting apparatus) at:
http://www.sparcousa.com/SparcoTabbedBaseSeatInstructions.pdf
Sparco Seat Install

http://www.deepstaged.net/Sparco.htm
This is a summary description of the process for installing Sparco buckets to replace a bench seat in
a Regular Cab Tacoma (exact model year unknown). Hot links lead to photos for many of the steps.
Speedware Motorsports Brackets
Speedware Motorsports of Redmond WA is a retail representative for both Recaro and Sparco seats.
They offer a full line of Recaro and Sparco factory mounting hardware. Their mounting hardware
offerings can be reviewed at http://www.speedwaremotorsports.com/seat/hardware.asp.
Speedware offers their own aluminum seat side mounts for all Recaro and Sparco side mount race
seats. Speedware's own seat side mounts have more side and bottom adjustments than any other
side mount option, and they're available in four colors.
In addition, Speedware offers custom seat installations and custom seat mounting hardware. They
claim, Our engineers can design and fabricate any type of seat bracket for any type of vehicle to
insure your custom seat is a perfect fit.
Tenzo (Tenzo-R) Seats
Tenzo Racing Sports manufactures a line of racing-style seats. These are usually referred to by the
names 'Tenzo' or 'Tenzo-R'.
They offer custom brackets and sliders for installing their products. These items must be purchased
separately, and Tenzo claims they're available 'for most cars'. However, I found no trace of any
Tenzo brackets being available for Toyota trucks. If you want to install Tenzo seats, you're probably
looking at fabrication to attach Tenzo's 'universal sliders' onto either your (modified) stock mounts or
a third-party Toyota truck base (e.g., Wedge, Sparco, Corbeau...).
NOTE: The Tenzo brackets illustrated at vendors' sites look suspiciously like Wedge Engineering or
maybe Corbeau products. I don't know one way or the other, but I suspect one of these other
companies makes the brackets for Tenzo.
I've found isolated references to Tenzo seats having been installed in Toyota pickups / Tacomas, but
no substanital information on the installations.
Wedge Engineering Brackets
Wedge Engineering of Long Beach, CA has decades of experience in designing and fabricating seat
mounting brackets for OEM and aftermarket installations. When I called Recaro and asked for a
bracket application (2004 Tacoma) they couldn't handle, they referred me to Wedge. Wedge offers
a full line of brackets designed to fit Toyota pickups / Tacomas. If your application is peculiar,
Wedge can also custom fabricate brackets for your project.
As of October 2004 (Wedge's 2002 bracket listing), Wedge offers the following model numbers /
brackets for our trucks:
76 - + PICKUP Driver = 362 / Passenger = 363
79 - 83 PICKUP Driver = 378 / Passenger = 379

95 - 99 TACOMA OEM BENCH Driver = 1102 / Passenger = 1103
95 - 99 TACOMA OEM 60-40 SPLIT BENCH & BUCKETS Driver =

1104 / Passenger = 1105
NOTE: If you compare the listings here, you'll see that many of the manufacturers' model numbers
follow the Wedge Engineering numbering scheme. I don't know whether this means that Wedge
makes their brackets for them, but I wouldn't be surprised if that were the case.
Door Panel Removal and Recovering
By: lifetrddeath
Click Picture to Enlarge

First a list of items I used to accomplish the task:
- Ratchet bit driver with Philips bit
- Flat head screw driver
- small allen wrench
- 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive
- Your choice of fabric
- 1/8, 1/16 foam or craft batting

Your first step involves removing the following:
- door handle (2 screws)

- the screw from the door latch
- the Omega pin and window crank and clear disk
- the black triangle piece with the mirror handle

To remove the door handle, used a philips screw driver and lossen up the two long screws
holding it in. Then pull from the door.

To unsecure the door latch, loosen and remove the screw with a philips. Then push the
latch towards the front of your vehicle to lossen it from the clips ont he inside. The latch itself cannot
be removed.

To remove the window crank, I pried the crank back with my flathead screw driver (it
should allow you to see the Omega pin), then with a very small allen wrench, I pushed the Omega
pin out. Now pull the window crank from the door along with the clear disk.

To remove the black triangle piece, first you must loosen and remove the screw holding
the mirror handle in. DO so with a philips. Then, with some effort, pull the mirror handle out and
away. Next, take your flathead, and pry off the black triangle. I should come off pretty
easily.header.
With a flathead screwdriver, pry between the door panel and the door and pop out the 12
white plastic fasteners. Just get the screwdriver really close to one (if you pry back and look close
you can see them) and pry it out, they should pop out without breaking.

Now to remove the panel from the door. Place a hand where the black triangle was, and
pull the panel away from the door to clear the screws showing and the lift up. It should now be
loose. Lift up on the other side to clear the lock swtich. Now to clear the door latch, first push the
latch towards the front of your truck, after its loose just kind of twist it sideways and push it through
the hole... your door panel should now succesfully be removed from your door.

Your first step to braking down your door panel is to remove the 12 white fasteners, which
slide ride out, and also the 7 philips screws holding the door pocket and speaker grill on.

With the plastic door pocket piece now removed, you'll want to seperate the main panel
from the top armrest piece. It is attached with 5 or 6 metal tabs that are bent over. Just pry them
up and then remove.

Now that that piece is removed, you need to remove the black window seal that runs
along the top of it. It's held on with 5 or 6 similar tab style things. Just pry them up and remove.

You should now be at the point where you can rip off all the old fabric and vinyl. Just peel
up the edges on the back side and start ripping. Take care not to actually rip aything though, you'll
need these pieces for templates.

When you ripped the fabric off, you should have noticed that there is a foam like material
between the panel and the fabric. Since it comes off with the fabric, you'll need to get either 1/8,
1/16 foam sheets or just buy a yard or two of batting from your local fabric store. Place your panel
ontop of the batting or foam and cut out a piece slightly larger, but to the same shape as your panel.
Now, in a controlled, well ventilated area, spray your penal board with 3M Super 77 (or
higher, ie 90). Lay down your foam or batting on top of the board and firmyl secure it. It should be
immediately stuck and secure. Now you'll want to trim the excess foam or batting by cutting with
scissors along the edges of the board.
Time to cut your first fabric. Position the gray stock fabric piece (the one where the
window crank and handle were) on top of the fabric you selected to replace the stock one. I chose
gray velour. Again, as with the foam, cut out the shape of the fabric, but give a little to make sure
you can secure it firmly to the back of the board.

Again, in a well ventilated area, spray the back of your fabric, and firmly press it down on
top of the foam. Then, flip your board over, spray the edges of the board and the fabric, and then
fold the fabric over the edges of the board and secure them to the back. The fabric will probably
stick very quickly with the 3M stuff and your hands are gonna get all glue-y.
*If you want, to secure even better, use short, strong staples (ones that won't go all the way
through) and staple the fabric on the back. Another way us to use run it through a sewing machine
so the fabric is sewn into the panel.

Don't worry about your bottom edge not being straight on the front. It can be as jagged
as you want because it will be being covered by your other fabric.

Now take the stock vinyl from the bottom portion of the panel and use it as a template to
cut your other material. I went with red leather. As always, be sure to leave extra around the edges
so you can secure it to the back.

This is one of the tricky parts. You need to create a rather straight, smooth seem at the
top. I used the stock piece to draw a outline on the back of the leather so I could see the shape of
what need to be made. You'll need to spray the back of the fabric, and fold it over and glue it to
itself. The glue may have to sit a second before attempting or it won't stick. Another option would
to use a similar color thread and use a sewing machine to sew the seem tight and straight.

Once that is nice and dry and not coming apart, it's time to lay it on the door panel and
glue it down. As always, in your ventilated area, spray back of the folded seem well with the glue,
continue to spray the rest of the back of the leather. Then lay it down on top of the panel, just
overlapping the gray area by maybe 1/8 to 1/4 and firmly press down to secure it. Now it's time to

flip it over and do the back.

Hopefully you had plenty of extra on the edges to streatch tight and fold over the back of
the panel. Spray the glue on the panel and give it your damndest to streatch out the ripples and
keep creases from forming on the corners and curved edges. It should now look similar to this.
* It may be a good idea, when dealing with a thicker material like leather, to staple down the
material near corners and edges along the back to keep warm weather from releasing the glue.

Near the end now. You'll need to strip the vinyl material from the door armrest. It just
takes peeling up the corners on the inside and skinning the thing. Try and leave the foam
underneath in place. It's good foam, no need to ruin!

Use that just removed vinyl to get a good idea of the size of leather you'll need to cut.
After that, place the armrest on top of the your material with the backside facing up. You'll notice
the 6 tabs there, they should punch right through your leather or other material with a little force.
(Look close at the picture, the black arrows point to the tabs.)
Now, glue the metal on the backside (don't spray glue on the foam area) and tightly pull
from both sides and glue to the back of the armrest. This piece can be a little difficult, but take your
time so secure all the way around and make clean edges.
When that is ready and dry, replace the door lock hole (you'll need to punch a hole for it
in the leather) and also put the black window seal back on. Again, the tabs on the window seal
should punch right through your fabric with a little force.

Now you should replace the plastic door pocket/speaker grill piece. Line it up with the
holes in the back and drive the screws through. If you used batting instead of foam, this will be a
huge pain because the batting will curl all over the screw before it gets through and could brake the
areas the screw need to enter. So be careful. You may need to back out the screw and with a
Leatherman, or Gerber tool, pick ou the material before proceeding. When that is firmly secure with
the 7 screws, it should look something like this.

Last major step. You need to re-attach the top armrest to the door panel. The 6 tabs you
punched through the armrest now need to lineup and be pushed through the slots on the door
panel. These may be covered up now by the first fabric you layed down, so just push them through,
and bend them over the back of the panel to secure.

Replace all the little white plastic clips (12 of them) to their homes on the back of the

panel and you should now have it ready to put back on your truck. Go outside, and just reverse the
steps for taking the panel off for putting it back on. You're new door panel looks great! Good job!
Toyota VIP Keyless/Security Installation Instructions
Here are the instructions for installing a Toyota VIP (RS3200) keyless/security system. These
instructions were written for 2004 Tacomas and may not be applicable to other model years.
View the PDF file >>
Replace Your Dash Lights with LEDs (95-04)
This is a guide written by user Nickefer to replace the interior lights on for your A/C Panel and Gauge
Cluster.
This article was composed based on installation in a '99, but 95.5-2004 trucks with a non-electric
A/C panel should be the same.
The lights were ordered from Super Bright LEDs. They provide a 1-Year Warranty & $5 Shipping
Tools Needed:
- Phillips Head #2 Screwdriver
- Socket Wrench
- 10mm Socket
- Needle Nose Pliers
Bulbs Needed:
- Gauge Cluster: (2) #194 Wedge Based Bulbs
- A/C Panel: (2) #74 Wedge Based Bulbs
*I used blue, they also offer red, amber, white, green, and uv blacklight*
*I also used the 5-LED Wide Angle Bulb to provide sufficient light to the Fuel Gauge and Water
Temp. If my pics seem too bright they also offer 4-LED and 1-LED Bulbs*
Click HERE to go directly to Super Bright LEDs Store. Search Keywords:

Guage - 194
A/C Panel - 74
Now let's change some lights!
1. Remove all of your A/C Panel Controls as marked and pull the cover off to expose
your A/C Panel Bulbs.

2. Remove the (2) Factory Bulbs and replace with (2) 74 Wedge Based Bulbs (marked
below in blue). Also remove (1) Phillips Head Screw to continue with dash removal (marked in
yellow).

3. Remove the Ash Tray and Cigarette Lighter. Also remove (1) Phillips Head Screw
located behind the Ash Tray.
4. Remove the (2) Clips on each side of the lower part of your center dash. Pull it out
far enough until you see the (2) Harnesses plugged into the back of your cigarette lighters and
unplug those.

5. Pull out your dash from the bottom up, exposing (1) Cigarette Lighter Harness and
(2) Harnesses plugged into your Airbag Controls. You only have to remove the ones marked. The
other small white harness can remain plugged in.

6. Now for the gauge cluster. Remove the (4) 10mm Socket Screws and (1) Phillips
Head Screw to remove the lower part of your dash. Your hood release will still be connected, I just
laid it in the floor board, if you want to disconnect it (2) Phillips Head Screws are located on the
backside of the lever.

7. Now remove (2) Phillips Head Screws below your gauges and (2) Phillips Head
Screws above.

8. Next, carefully pull back on your dash starting from the side with your Hazard
Lights, unplug the Hazard Light Harness. The plastic around your ignition can be popped loose and
remove the harness plugged into the back of it.
9. Once you get to the left side of your dash, you will need to reach under and unplug
your Dimmer Harness. Also if you have a manual transmission, make sure you unplug your Clutch
Start Cancel Harness. Also to make it easier reach up and pop your upper air duct apart from the
lower part. As you remove your dash around your gauges be sure to have your steering wheel all the

way down. Also i found it easier to remove if you pull back and hold onto the lever that changes the
height of your steering wheel.
10. Once your dash is removed remove (4) Phillips Head Screws securing your gauge
cluster in.
11. You have (3) Harnesses plugged into the rear of your gauges, unplug those. I
believe if you have a tach you have (4) Harnesses.

12. Remove your gauge cluster and turn it over, you have (4) main twist-lock bases.
The upper (2) are for your blinkers and the lower (2) are the ones you want to change. Twist the
sockets until they come loose and remove the factory bulbs from each and replace with (2) #194
Wedge Bases Bulbs. I purchased both the 5-LED Wide Angle and 1-LED bulbs just in case the 5 -LED
was too bright. I personally like the 5-LED because how the bulbs are positioned it provides enough
light to the fuel and water temp gauge, seeing as how there are only (2) bulbs to light up your entire
dash.

13. Once you've changed your lights (but before you put your dash back together), go and plug
your gauges back in and test them out. Your lights will not turn on unless your dimmer is plugged in,
so get the panel and just plug it in. Also if a bulb appears to be out, turn the bulb around because
they are polarized.
Now put everything back together and enjoy!
The Finished Result!

Remember, I used the 5-LED Wide Angle Bulb. If it's too bright, I recommend trying the 1-LED, it
provides a softer blue.
You'll notice that the A/C panel looks kinda spotty, well thats how it is. My friend did this in his ZR2
and it looked the same way. I still like it; don't care too much about it.
Also just as a disclaimer: your dimmer will not work anymore - LEDs cannot dim, they just turn off.

I also changed my dome light for kicks. Here's a quick write-up about that:
To do this, just un-pop off the cover for your dome light. Next, take out your factory bulb and
replace it with a #3022 Festoon of your choice.
For the replacement bulb, I used a Blue 9-LED Festoon.

Click HERE to go directly to Super Bright LEDs Store.
Search Keywords:
Dome Light - 3022

Upgrade/Install Map Lights in 95.5-2004 Trucks
This is a guide written by user Bhavesh to install/upgrade the rear view mirror in 95.5-2004 non-SR5
trucks to the "deluxe" mirror with map lights.
Tools and Other Items Needed:

- two conductor wire
- wire cutters
- scissors
- phillips head screwdriver
- electrical tape or inline butt connectors
- the map lights from an SR5 Tacoma
- soldering iron (optional)
1. The first thing to do is take out your original mirror. Remove the cover to expose the
screws and remove them with your philips head screwdriver
2. The new maplights take up more area than the old mirror and should already have
recesses in the roof's sheet metal to accommodate them. Unfortunately, the headliner is not pre-cut,
so first check the roof's sheet metal for the appropriate clearance, then cut out your headliner while
test fitting the maplights until it fits. I was eyeballing the cuts, so to make sure I didn't over-shoot it,
I just made small slits in the headliner until I had the right size.

3. Step 3 is optional if your maplights already have TWO wires coming out of the connector.
If it has two wires, then no additional modification is necessary. If it only has one wire (and you
would like the maplights to turn on with the door), then you need to attach a wire to the ground side
of the bulbs.
I used the solder points on the switch as the connection to the ground side of the bulbs. So I
soldered one wire in parallel between the switch terminals, and soldered a 2nd wire coming off one
of those terminals and left it hanging on the backside of the maplights. Here is a picture of the
completed wiring:

again, use of a soldering iron is optional. As long as you connect a wire to the bulb grounds,
then you can still add a "door ground" to a set of map lights that only has one wire coming out of the
back
Also, I lost my connector, so I squeezed a spade lug until it would stay snug on the pin
if you do add your own wires, MAKE SURE you know which wire is your ground, and which wires is
your +12 constant lead
4. Running the wires: this part concerned me because I didn't know how I would get a wire
past the metal supports for the headliner. Fortunately, they bend easily and can be negotiated to
snake a wire through.
So I just took a wire coat hanger, straightened it out, and started snaking it straight towards the
front of the truck until I hit one of the headliner support bars. When this happened, I reached my
hand through the headliner (where the dome light used to be) and pushed down on the headliner
until the bar bent down from the roof, and allowed the coat hanger through. I repeated this method
until I had the coat hanger coming out of the mirror hole and the dome light hole to get a wire
through, I just tied it to one end of the coat hanger, and slowly pulled it through. Make sure you use
a 2-conductor wire.

5. The next part was attaching your wires to the dome light. I didn't bother with the
soldering iron because the metal tabs were easily accessible, so I just wrapped the constant +12
wire around the bulb terminal, and the "door ground" wire around one of the pins where the
connector plugs in

6. The last step is attaching your +12 lead to your map light wire, and the "door ground"
lead to the wire you connected to your bulb grounds. Note that if your map lights came with a 2-pin
connector, then that's where you connect your "door ground" lead to.
Re-mount your new map light, and test it out!
Results: I am very happy with them as there is more lighting in the front. Unfortunately Toyota uses
rinky dink bulbs in their taco lighting, so it wasn't a difference of day and night. Instead, it adds more
light that faces backwards, and makes the interior bright enough that you're not rummaging for

extra light.
Update: The map lights do make a big difference...when I'm trying to read something at night, and I
have both the dome light, and the map lights on, I have no trouble because it's pretty bright in there
2001-2004 XtraCab Rear Speaker Access/Removal
This article contains a detailed writeup contributed by STOCKTRD for accessing the rear speakers in
a 2001 - 2004 XtraCab.
This write up will be a combination of the actual Toyota Factory Service Manual (FSM) instructions
and what I did for removing all the associated panels to gain access to the
rear speakers on a 2001 Extra Cab. This will be the same for 01-04 models.
This procedure may or may not work for previous year (95.5-2000) Tacomas.
1. REMOVE BACK PANEL UPPER GARNISH AND REAR SEAT BACK

(Garnish = Back Wall - Upper Trim Panel)
(a) Using a screwdriver, remove the garnish.

(b) Remove the 3 bolts and rear seat back.
Torque: 18 N·m (185 kgf·cm, 13 ft·lbf)
First I removed the upper back trim panel located above the rear seat back. It's the one that has the
small removable panel for the child seat installation. This panel has no screws and just pops out.
I didn't need a screwdriver to get it off. But if you need to use one make sure to wrap it in tape so as
not to scratch anything. After that I unbolted the 3 bolts that hold in the rear seat back. The bottom
of the seat back has hooks attached to the body so you have to pull out and then pull up.
Note: In my pics you can see some duct tape. This is for my alarm's magnetic switch that I have on
my rear sliding window.
FSM STEP 2
2. REMOVE BACK PANEL LOWER GARNISH

(Garnish = Back Wall - Lower Trim Panel)
Using a screwdriver, remove the garnish.
My Step 2

Again I didn't need a screwdriver to get the rear bottom trim panel off.
If you need to use a screwdriver, wrap it in tape.
Remember to take the seat belt latches off the holder on the panel before you pop it out.
To put this panel back in just line up the tabs and pop it on.
FSM STEP 3
3. REMOVE REAR SEAT CUSHIONS

Remove the 4 bolts and rear seat cushions.
Torque: 18 N·m (185 kgf·cm, 13 ft·lbf)
My Step 3
I didn't need to remove the rear seat cushions so I left them in.
FSM STEP 4
4. REMOVE QUARTER TRIMS
(a) Remove the 4 screws and scuff plate.

(b) Remove the door opening trim around the quarter trim.
(c) Remove the 2 cover and 2 bolts, disconnect the front seat outer belt.
(d) Using a screwdriver, open the seat belt anchor cover.
(e) Remove the 2 bolts and disconnect the rear seat outer belt.
(f) Remove the screw and coat hook.
(g) Using a screwdriver, pry and remove the quarter trim.
My Step 4
I removed the scuff panel by unscrewing the four screws and slowly prying it up. It is really easy to
break the plastic tabs that hold the panel to the body during removal and installation. It is also easy
to strip out the plastic that the screws attach to during installation. Step B in the FSM says to remove
the "door opening trim" I wasn't not sure what they meant so I didn't do it. Next, I did just as the
FSM states by removing the covers off of the front and rear shoulder belts. A small flat blade with
tape works the best.
As you can see in my pics that the cover on the rear seat belt is attached to itself and doesn't come
off like the front seat belt.
I then removed the bolts holding the front and rear shoulder belts, torque for installation of both
bolts is 31 FT LBS.
The coat hook was then removed just like the FSM says.
I pried the rear trim panel off with my hands - going slowly and making sure I didn't break any of
the black plastic tabs that hold the panel on.
These tabs attach to both the trim panel and the body so you really have to be careful here.
Make sure you watch and listen if any of these tabs fall cause they can get lost in between the foam
in the body channels of the truck.

The next steps are up to you.
After popping the trim panel off and accounting for all the black tabs you can pull the panel back
enough to get access to the rear speaker. However, I found it difficult to get in the space to get
the speaker out because the rear seat belt tensioner was still attached. I decided to remove it.
To remove the rear seat belt you take out the bolt on the bottom of the rear tensioner, then
unhook the top hook.
To reinstall the rear seat belt tensioner you hook it on the top then bolt it in. Torque for the bolt is
31 FT LBS. This gave me more room to get to the rear speakers.
To get the rear speakers out you remove the four screws and disconnect the wire connector.
Because I am running an amp to my rear speakers, I removed the entire rear speaker panel with the
speaker attached so it would be easier run my speaker wires to my amp. This was done by
disconnecting the wire connector then taking off the four bolts that held the speaker panel on.
Again, watch the bolts and screws for the rear speaker. Don't tighten them too much or you'll strip
out the plastic. The whole panel just lifts up and out.
Note the two hooks on the top of the panel. Once it's out you can see that Toyota put a piece of
sound dampening material on the body.
Reinstalling everything is the exact opposite of the removal procedure outlined above.
Just remember to be patient when you're putting the trim panel back on. Getting the plastic tabs to
line up is a pain and it took me a few attempts to get it on.

2005+
Disable 2005+ Door Buzzer
By: slamdtaco
This article will explain how to disable the interior door buzzer that sounds when your door is open
with the key on. Please note: If you perform this modification, you will also be disabling the
(manual transmission) reverse beep notification, and you will also lose the seatbelt buzzer.
Tools needed:
- Pliers
- Metric socket set
First, remove the screws located above the gauges as seen here.
Pull the kick panel towards you to uncover the bolt. Remove the bolt and pull the plastic
piece out just a little to make it easier to remove the dash piece above it.
Gently, but firmly pull the dash piece that surrounds the gauges towards you until it pops
out.
You may find it easier to move it out of the way if you remove the clips on the back first.

Next, remove the 4 screws that hold the gauges in place.
Pull the guage towards you and unplug the 2 wiring harnesses on the top of it.
Pull the gauge cluster out and turn it over. Remove the 3 screws in the back of it.
It will look like this with the cover removed. The buzzer is circled in the photo.
I used a pair of pliers and gently turned the round buzzer until it broke off. I have also
been told (by user amber00dak) that you can run a bead of 100% silicone around the bottom of the
buzzer and some in the hole on the top. It will still make noise, but with the radio on you can't hear
it.

Finally, the annoying buzzer is gone. Put all pieces back and you are ready to leave the door open
and enjoy your music.
2005+: Install Toyota VIP System
Here are the instructions for installing a Toyota VIP (TVIP) keyless/security system (RS3200 Plus) into
a 2005+ Tacoma.
View the PDF >>

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01+ Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Install

Things that are needed:

Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Additional O2 Sensor (Cannot Use Factory Sensor)

A Lift If Available(makes install much easier)

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Easy Starter Kill Switch

- Amount of 16-18g wire need to run the switch to your location

- Handful of wire connects / solder gun & solder

- Electrical tape and black wire loom

<img border=1 src=files/05_theft/02.jpg width=250 height=191><img border=1

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Full Time Power Outlets

<img src=files/148-PowerOutlet-1s.JPG alt=Enlarge border=1>

<img src=files/148-PowerOutlet-2s.JPG alt=Enlarge border=1>

<img src=files/148-PowerOutlet-3s.JPG alt=Enlarge border=1>

Install a Mini Tachometer

By: Paul Vincent

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<img border=1 src=files/tach_install/Tach_tn.gif align=left vspace=8 hspace=8>

<img border=1 src=files/tach_install/wiring_tn.jpg align=right vspace=8 hspace=8>

<img border=1 src=files/tach_install/B_tn.jpg align=left vspace=8 hspace=8>

After it was installed I checked out how it performed.

Idle: 750 - 800 rpm

2nd gear at just less than 55mph: ~5,300rpm

5th gear at 55mph: ~2,000rpm

Toggled Door Buzzer

By: Randy Hobart

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1 small toggle switch

Phillips head screwdriver

Estimated Time: less than 1 Hour

<img src=files/121-toggle01.jpg border=1>

<img src=files/121-toggle02.jpg border=1>

<img src=files/121-toggle03.jpg border=1>

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The door switch wire is a

Cut the green wire, leaving enough wire

<img src=files/121-toggle05.jpg border=1>

<img src=files/121-toggle06.jpg border=1>

Replace all of the dash components and trim pieces.

<img src=files/121-toggle07.jpg border=1>

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4Runner Tweeter Pod Install (Pre-01 only)

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Part #: 67491-35010-CO Description: Garnish, FR Door LWR

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Best of all, they sound and look great!!

Stock Speaker Size Chart

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Increase Your 2003 Keyless Remote Range

The antenna is located under the driver side dash.

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Dash Take-Apart Instructions

By: MTB_taco, MadAktion, Jeff

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5: Disconnect the air bag harness, if applicable.

If you wish to gain access to the instrument cluster, continue reading...