VISIT DEWAL & GHESH-BALAN IN CHAMOLI GARHWAL

Pindar River flows below the Forest Bungalow.

1. As a sequel to our aim of visiting remote areas to address pension related pr
oblems of ESM/Widows & Dependents, we accepted Sub Maj Hony Capt Keshar Singh Bi
sht s invitation to visit Ghesh-Balaan. This was God sent.
It served a dual purpose. It not only served our main purpose to meet ESM in one
of the very last village in Chamoli Garhwal, but also offered a rare opportunit
y to visit Aali & Baiduni Bugyals that I last visited in 1967. Then I was accom
panied by Biju Negi, my cousin & Sqn Ldr Praksh Jethru & his two sisters. Beside
s it would allow us to see the good work being done by the locals in the field o
f agriculture, horticulture & herb culture.
2. Lt Col MM Kukreti & Air Cmde Amul Kapoor were unable to accompany. The trip
materialized on 24 Mar 2011.
My son Karan & nephew Kunal accompanied. They were more keen to trek up to the f
amous Bugyals. Having departed at 6.30 AM by our reliable MARUTI ALTO we reached
Dewal at 4.30 PM covering a distance of 265 kms. The drive till Karanprayag, as
usually was tolerable. Karanprayag onwards, driving along the Southern bank of
Pindar offered some breathtaking views. We were received at the Forest Bungalow
of Dewal by a smartly dressed Keshar Singh and a score of ESM including three w
idows. So, while the tea was ordered we sat down to take stock of the situation.
With the ESM at Ghesh
(a) The common refrain was that some six months or more ago, a large number of E
SM had transferred their Pension Accounts from Tehsil Treasury, Narainbagarh to
SBI Dewal but all their pension documents had been sent to CPPC Chandni Chowk De
lhi. Consequently, they had not received their pension since then.
(b) Widows were still being paid pension that was below the minimum Rs 3500 that
had been laid down in Govt orders.
(c) In all cases, those who had crossed the age of 80 yrs were NOT being paid Ad
ditional Pension.
(d) ESM were quite ignorant about the 6CPC & the subsequent orders issued from t
ime to time.
3. Essential details of these ESM were recorded in the Data Sheets. ESM were ins
tructed to keep a photocopy of their PPOs, duly attested by their Bank, ready fo
r handing over to us on our way back to enable us to take up their cases with CP
PC at Delhi & Dehradun. The total number of ESM who presented themselves at Dewa
l was rather disappointing. Inadequate publicity was the cause of this & needs t
o be taken stock of at the UESL office Dehradun for future visits..
4. We had to abandon our MARUTI ALTO at the Forest Bungalow & avail the intrepi
d MAX Jeep that is the only suitable vehicle to undertake the journey charging R
s 1000 for the one-way trip. The road, after a few kilometers splits three ways
for Mandoli-Waan, Ghesh-Balan & Sowarh. Of these roads, the one to Waan is ALTO
worthy while the one to Sowarh is a shade worse. The one to Ghesh is strewn wit
h sharp stones; the road is under trace cutting & subject to frequent landslides
as the sides will need retaining walls & stabilizing. We left Dewal at 7AM & by
9.30AM we were at Ghesh after a halt at a small hamlet for breakfast.
From left Kunal, Self and H Capt Keshar Singh Bisht
6. It was heartening to see that the ESM here had constructed a neat kitchen in
the middle of the courtyard. This was something beneficial that should have bee
n done by all hill people as it would free most of them of the smoke of the indo
or open kitchens & attendant common ailment of TB. The general cleanliness maint
ained by the housewife was in side this outdoor kitchen was immaculate. Herb & v
egetables, fresh from the garden were plucked & prepared into piping hot pakoras
 & chutney that went down very well with equally hot glass of tea. Karan & Kunal
helped themselves copiously to this treat & found enough time to click some mem
orable photos of this small settlement.
5. A few kilometers short of Ghesh we were treated to spectacular views of the s
now capped peaks spiraling against a clear sky. Ghesh village spreads over a dia
meter of 4 kilometers or so over two massive spurs. The VOLVO road cutting & doz
ing machine had proceeded at least 4 kilometers beyond Ghesh market, en route to
Balaan. Once this road is Completed, trekkers will find a road head barely 2 h
ours from the famous Bugyals a great advantage. Personally I dislike this idea b
ecause this will mean inevitable pollution of the pristine Bugyals & end of the
peace of the imperiled endangered wild life.
6. While Karan & Kunal prepared for a trek to Aali-Beduni Bugyals the next day,
we toured the village & then gathered at the school to meet the ESM. Here too th
e situation was as pathetic as it was at Dewal. They were made aware of their co
rrect pension. There was a case of an ESM who was over 80 years of age. He had p
articipated in WW II & was 16 ½ years old in 1.11.1942. He was under great discom
fort - being a patient of High Blood Pressure. There was a case of a young girl,
a dependent, who was not getting her dues & claimed that her father s LTA (Life T
ime arrears) had not been paid to her by the bank. Widows were getting well belo
w the barest minimum limit of Rs 3500 as pension. Only a few ESM were getting co
rrect pension.
School children at Ghesh they look quite like the students of Greg Mortenson in
Badakshan(Afghanistan) & Hunza in Northern Areas of POK
7. On two days, i.e, on 25 & 26 Mar, ESM kept coming with their pension related
problems. In between we went to The children s school & were pleasantly surprise
d to be treated to a recital of We shall overcome , Nursery Rhymes & Multiplication
Tables. It was encouraging to see that the schools were being happily & regular
ly attended & that the teachers were doing a good job.
The suspension bridge over the gorge between Ghesh & Balaa en route to Aali-Bedu
ni Bugyal. Karan, here is holding the walls from falling.
The gorge becomes narrow & steep up stream. Will Brown Trout thrive here?
Such is the stock that fed soldiers to the British & Indian Army
A riding pony, veteran of Kedarnath route in chest deep snow!
8. Early morning on 26 Mar, Karan & Kunal proceeded on their trek to the Bugyals
. Mercifully they turned back an hour short of Ali Bugyal where the snow was wai
st deep otherwise they would have been stranded for the night that too in a bliz
zard. Expecting to do the round trip in one day was decidedly ill-conceived. N
evertheless some breath taking pictures had been by them taken en route.
Women with their load of Lichen on their way up to the oak trees
9. While Karan & Kunal struggled uphill, the local girls & boys sprinted ahead o
f them with great ease. They do this trip almost every day to collect lichen fro
m the oak trees, which they sell at Rs 60 per kg. They also harvest Morel mushr
ooms from the high altitude ridges. This mushroom is called Guhchi in Kashmir wh
ere it is used for specific occasions like religious & wedding feasts. Some mor
e fascinating, rare, popular & much sought after herbs are grown by these hardy
people.
10. For this memorable trip we thank Sub Maj Hony Capt Keshar Singh Bisht for in
viting us & taking great care that we were very well looked after. We also thank
all ESM & residents of Ghesh who have left an indelible mark in our minds. They
are very friendly, warm hearted, simple & hard working.
11. A good number of ESM are from 4 Garh Rif. One of them is Sub Balwant Singh w
ho was a PW during the 1962 Chinese Aggression. His narration of the circumstanc
es that led to his capture & subsequent release makes a fascinating story. One h
opes to record his narrative & one Rfn Sher Singh who now leads an active retire
d life at Ghat on the Nandprayag axis.
12. Details of cases noted for processing are as follows:-
(a) Rfn Nain Singh - Incorrect pension
(b) Smt Pavitri Devi Sub Harak Singh - LTA & Dependent Pension
(c)Nk Lachhi Singh Incorrect pension
(d) Sep Hari Ram - Incorrect pension
(e)Hav Rattan Singh - Incorrect pension
(f) Hav Ck Chander Singh- Incorrect pension -
(g)Smt Tulsi Devi Sep Raghubir- Incorrect pension
(h)Smt Mahshi Devi Hony Nb Sub Pushkar Singh- Incorrect pension
(j)Hony Nb Ris Ranbir Singh - Incorrect pension
(k) Smt Pari Devi Rfn Pan Singh- Incorrect pension
(l) Smt Bachuli Devi Nk Bahadur Singh- Incorrect pension
(m) Smt Narayani Devi Rfn Man Singh- Incorrect pension
(n) Nb Sub Sher Singh- Being paid correct pension
(o) Nk TS Gopal Singh- Incorrect pension
(p) Rfn Daleep Singh- Incorrect pension
(r) Smt Khimani Devi Rfn Roop Singh- Incorrect pension
13. Necessary Excel Sheets in respect of all the above ESM/ Dependents have been
prepared & will be forwarded to the CPPC, respective bank & individuals.