http://www.fixya.

com/support/r387833-maytag_washer_squeaking_problem

This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical
transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be
attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring
located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins.
You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the
washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub
support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this
will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the
machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems.
The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden
jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of
the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:

You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace
the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be
compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it
can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-
yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I
would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions
with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor
towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive
shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of
plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you
are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and
place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other
methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor,
stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves
compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all
the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake
stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place
the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the
washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back
on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the
shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber
ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled
correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go
back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

I hope you find these instructions helpful.

My Maytag Atlantis Washer sounds like a jet turbine when on spin. It spins fine but
even the cats complain its so loud. I live in an old house with plaster walls, you can hear
the washer on the second floor even though the washers in the base. Took it apart and
could not find any obvious issues, except for some powered plastic. Looked for warn
part or stainless still "rotor" dragging on plastic drum housing. Found lots of mold and
dirt. Cleaned everything. Made no difference. Any ideas. Is this a transmission issue?
If so how do I prove it and get a replacement. Only one year on labor.
Transmission assembly for 10 years (no labor). Can't believe I need to do this on a
machine so new. Did I get a lemon or is the whole brand suspect
ratherbfishin

check your pulleys on your pump, motor and tranmisson. remove belt under bottom of
machine, [no tools needed]. turn pulleys by hand, motor and pump pulleys should turn
freely with no resistance. i would suspect your pump. easy for small items to lodge
inside and make a noise similar to baseball cards on bicycle spokes and can be very
loud.

Pump turns fine. Transparent and looks fine. Will look at more later but, it looks like
someone killed a chicken inside the cabinet now. Dark red splotches on the walls.
Remember this is just over a year old washing machine!!! Suspect its a seal
ratherbfishin

if rusty brown stains are at same level as the bottom of outer tub, you need to pull off
agitator (nut under fabric softener dispenser. dispenser snaps out) see if something is
wrapped around tub seal (it's beige plastic with fins.) and transmission shaft. if that looks
ok you have a bad tub seal and hub bearing assembly. remove inner tub ( spinner) to
access hub assembly. both tub seal and hub have right hand threads. bearing asssembly is
mounted in outer tub underneath hub assembly.

I mispoke my washer is slightly over 2 years old. So the only parts covered by warranty
is basket, transmission and drive motor. I have already remove the basket and nothing
was wrapped around it. Yes the underside of the tub has the same splash marks on
(actually solid ring). Need to locate a more detailed drawing. It would appear I have to
take the entire shell off to be able to access bolts holding tub on. But which bolts? Bolts
on support brackets or bolts to metal mounting plate. Also looks like I have to remove 3
of the 6 springs. Looking at parts on this web site looks like seal kit, upper spin bearings
(remember the jet turbine sound) and some special tools. Seal kit requires special
spanner and I am worried the bearings are a press fit which I won't be able to handle.

Looks like the washers is

What do you think. I certainly don't think its worth the effort if this is going to happen
every two years.

you will have to remove all six springs to complete repair, also need specialty tools to
remove brake and stator with spring. depends on series which tub seals and bearings to
get for your machine.(first two numbers of serial number determine series). if you can
get transmission, tub seals and hub and bearings come with it.

Does anyone have a drawing? I got the shell and tub off but I don't know what the next
part is to disassemble. I supect its the one with the spanner. Could turn it but don't know
which way to turn. Also drive shaft and boot would still be in the way. Does drive shaft
just pull out? Don't see any E clips or retaining rings.

I don't mind spending money to get quality, but I am afraid I wasted my money on this
machine . Is this a common problem or did I just get unlucky? I had a Maytag
before. It required me to replace the direct coupling every 4 to 5 years but it wasn't hard
or expensive and I had it a long time before the transmission gave out.
ratherbfishin

tranmission comes as complete assembly, shaft does not come out. cast aluminum hub is
on with right hand threads, once you remove that you will have to remove springs and
brake stator. see previous post. your transmission didnot fail just your tub seal. you
might consider calling a authorized maytag guy. parts will depend on which series
washer you have. unless you can get the transmission replaced under warranty. it will
come with all new seals and new hub. see appliance breakdown diagram on banner.
seal kits and transmission come with directions

What about the spin bearings. Remember this thing sounds like a jet turbine. Running a
gas leaf blower in the house would be quieter!!! Are you thinking they will blame
damage to transmission on the seal and refuse to replace it?

Does anybody have an exploded diagram that shows the details of how to take the
support plate off? I can't figure out even if I manage to loosen the housing how to
remove it as it has a boot that wraps tightly under the transmission shaft

they shouldnt blame seal for any damage. to get to lower seal and bearing assembly you
will have to attack from underneath tub. , removing brake stator assembly will allow
access to screw holding tub support to seal in outer tub. spin bearing comes with
transmission assembly.

This diagram of the transmission might help.

Last edited on Wed Mar 22nd, 2006 22:37 by Samurai Appliance Repair Man

____________________

The picture helps but I am still not sure of the order of things. Take off pulley. Remove
load centering springs. Unbolt tub support arms. Could you give me a list by #'s in the
drawing?

I am have replaced brakes on my car and have some spring tools. But how strong are
those springs? Is the spring your are talking about spring 18 in the drawing? Totally
contained by the shaft? Or do I have to worry about a spring going wild?

Is item 10 the spinner bearing?

What is the water leakage path? Down the spin axle? What is rusted so badly that the
spray looks like dried blood?

item 9 is the bearing and seal assembly. item 18 is the spring that is under extreme
pressure. 1. remove all parts inside outer tub.(spinner or inner tub , tub seal,metal
hub.) 2. then remove all 6 tub balance springs, disconnect tub to pump hose and pressure
switch hose at outer tub.(be careful of air dome,could break off if catches on body when
removing tub and base assembly. 3. remove belt. 4. remove outer tub assembly and
base as whole assembly and turn upside down onto outer tub. should be looking at
transmission pulley, remove thrust bearing , brake stator and spring. spring under
extreme pressure. the only thing containing spring is the metal coverwith 6 5/16
screws. proceed with caution , do not remove cover to brake unless you can take pressure
off of spring. you will need special tool or could find post at this web site on how to
without. once you remove brake and spring assembly you will find three screws remove
those and six screws that house brake and springs. make sure to mark tub support pan
and tub bearing assembly orientation it will make a difference on reassembly.( in relation
to outer tub). again do remove brake stator without relieving pressure on spring 18 on
your diagram. ps. red stains caused by water mixing with grease inside tub seals and
rust from bearing. note. depending on series of your washer you
may be able to buy tub seal and bearing kit which would come with everything you need.
see prev post about series number! you might be able to borrrow or rent speciality tools
from where you buy parts.

Thanks for the information. I used channel locks to get item 5 ("nut") off.
Bearing is bad. It rattles and was most likely the source of the jet engine noise. The
spring did not seem that strong as the pressure is released by just backing out the
screws. ALready hand tub support off before I read you note on marking it. Which
way does the index hole for item 9 go in relation to cabinet? Sure hope I don't have

to do this every two years!! It is certainly a major operation.

ratherbfishin

what needs to line up are the hooks and slots for your supension springs in the tub
support. at this point you will have to check before and during reassembly.
RN
Grasshopper

I got the part and see that it has been redesigned. They tell me to grease parts but only
give a part number for grease. Any clues here.
ratherbfishin

if you look inside seals you shoud find that they have already been greased.

Last edited on Tue Feb 28th, 2006 03:34 by ratherbfishin

Yes they are after going to the store to get some since I was out.

OOPS I forgot does parts 22 & 23 go on before assembly to the base so that the spings
are the only things holding the transmission to the base or do they go on under the base
and act as a retainer.
ratherbfishin

note ... you completely assemble lower half of washer including transmission pulley
while upside down resting on outer tub, the tran pulley will drop thru opening in base.
replace tub seal and bearing into outer tub,don't forget black rubber seal,looks like big
rubber band. you should completely assemble bottom half of assembly, transmission,
snubber(keep clean remove any grease,oils off snubber) ,brake rotor,brake stator and
spring, screws go into lower transmission bearing, replace tub seal and bearing into outer
tub then invert and place back into machine, replace tub springs and then replace hub
and tub seal.
The trans pulley will go thru hole in base which means 22 and 23 must be on before
mounting to the base. (ie these parts same side of base as tub not the pulley.

Second comment then why did I need to remove the stator brake? I could of left it
assembled and just unbolted tube support base from the supports and not had to deal with
a 200 lb spring.

I put things back together. Washer did not spin. Took apart stator and put back together.
Did not spin. Then did it again but used a screw driver to force movement in stator. That
apparently solved the problem.

Anyone reading this please note that there is no need to remove the stator and its 200 lb
spring to replace the spin bearing / tub seal. If you do I found the trick to getting the
stator back on is to use two 1" long screws with the same threads as the 8 that hold the
stator on with to drive it down until the other screws can engage. then bakc out your
long screws and put in the correct length screws. Then make shure the the brake moves.
It has at least 1/8" movement. I pried under stator lip to center of brake with a curved pair
of heavy duty "needle nose" pliers. This also allowed me to get the pulley (pliers
reaching between spokes of pulley) and the E-clip back on.

http://www.applianceaid.com/norgewash.html#brake

http://209.85.173.104/search?
q=cache:tDCC0m7jCdkJ:appliance.justanswer.com/uploads/TheHomeSmithy/2008-06-
10_014441_thrust_washer.pdf+maytag+thrust+bearing&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=10&gl=us
appliance.justanswer.com/uploads/TheHomeSmithy/2008-06-
10_014441_thrust_washer.pdf –

http://applianceguru.com/forum2/17416.html