Origami ( ori meaning “folding”, and kami meaning “paper”) is the traditional

Japanese folk art of paper folding, which started in the mid-1900s and has
evolved into a modern art form.

In the geometry of paper folding, a straight line becomes a crease or a fold. Instead

C
of drawing straight lines, one folds a piece of paper and flattens the crease. Folding

I
paper is analogous to mirroring one half of a plane in a crease. Thus folding means
both drawing a crease and mapping one half of a plane onto another. As in the usual

R
Geometry, the distinction is being made between experimentation with the physical
paper and the abstract theory of “paper folding”. “Abstract paper” may be folded

T
indefinitely although in practice the number of folds is by necessity limited. In the Paper

E
Folding Geometry, a straight line - a fold - is clearly a primary object; a point is defined as
the intersection of two folds.

O M
G E IT’S ALL IN
THE FOLD:
more than just origami.
 ry
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n tail re Th e ba e in into a velty, s

o
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tio of eh ps ly n ell the Meewisse‘s

r o llec desig eams ays b colla s love , as w out, nd

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ha vision is one in
e
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late -bas e”, th folds o lite sides d stu d is s r toug

d ry ‘ s
am ps he g t Be l an se the
which pure materials and
Frr sterd colla hat t he ba ther. ctica her u d ra

n t experimental construction lie

m “ t lea e pra leat te, an

u
A lled d for
cte of e at heart. The Dutchman‘s designer
Ca stru wing pile es ar se th elica

o
n
co y, allo e-like selv ecau om d bags are characterized by their
F
m r
wa elop the ful. B far f

er,
v s
en bag eaut gs is
i thick, rich, Aniline leather- known for only
a
the ply b he b becoming more beautiful with age and usage.
sim k of t rde.

is gn
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De ti t S
fflé
ou ps
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fo
Designer Ferry Meewisse and his line Frrry is very much so
origami-inspired. His bags can be uniquely contracted into a
small cute package or expanded into a larger baggie. What
makes this bag so clever is that he makes the seams coincide
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with the crease pattern and results in both a functional and a - side vie
beautiful aesthetic in these very stylish handbags.
 g
collapsin
- before

Hexagon Canvas
of one piece
This bag is made
of fabric

The surface of these simply rectangular bags is divided in

triangles
to enable them to fold back to a polygon. The series goes - after collapsing
from
square to decagon. Each item has its own characteristics,
expressed in construction, details and colors scheme.

De - afte
Wh cago r coll
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WEAR IT
LADY GAGA was the toast of the New York fashion crowd on Monday night (02Nov09)
- she was honoured for her eccentric style sense at an awards show in the city. The
Poker Face hit maker, dressed in a bizarre outfit, with her underwear over her clothes
and a black veil covering her face, attended the annual Accessories Council Excellence
(ACE) gala, which recognizes fashion’s leading players over the last year. Lady Gaga was
handed the coveted Stylemaker award for her innovative outfits and received a tribute

LIKE
from ACE President Karen Giberson. She told the crowd, “As an artist, (Lady Gaga) is
well-appointed in accessories. Just when you thought you saw everything in originality,
there she is again. People anticipate what she’s going to wear and it’s exciting to see
accessories as such a meaningful part of someone’s wardrobe.”

LADY
GAGA
ro
wn Orig
Jet ami in
e
f h he s
n y o e. S ate e’s s
a c e l
nigh spir
r
m n cr p u
s n o en peo colo
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es e t e int ren
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tt a t m hat ag dif
bo r
ver ess w
o fi t im ing
an ut d e
r m n o rea n th s us
in L o
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G ar a Th bur res

as rn at
a e “
le in we Th to ed d
n g to o’s er pir
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a
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i Veg
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efa d is rvie nt two cc
i t u rig ns
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ag pare an in d m ffere
G p n t a i
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La age ine e o y G tw
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ex e s s”! re it
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 “Mystery is my inspiration,
TRY TO WALK
IN HER
the inherent logic and mystery in machines and their highly specific language of efficiency.
SHOES
This language has as much to do with concealing as it has with revealing and within this
contradiction lays a multitude of opportunities for interpretation,” says ten Bhömer.
“My work explores this void.”
Dutch Designer Marloes ten Bhömer produces
shoes that are both provocative and otherworldly.
Her work experiments with art and technology
allowing us to perceives shoes in a new light. They
have a design language that is built on clean lines,
materials, and construction techniques that are
closer to design and architecture than women’s
E S
fashion. They allow women the incredibly rare
MA R L O
chance of freedom from conventional style clichés
and codes, because they do not conform to the
existing codes.
Bhömer’s shoes are a synthesis of what seems to
be Japanese origami, modern architecture, and
avant-garde couture. Geometric folds, curvaceous
shapes and future-forward designs. It’s a shoe
engineering revolution. They’re stylized forms of
TEN
rebellion from the usual clichés of shoe lines and
shapes. Quoting from design and architecture
critic Shumon Basar, “If the key commandment of
glamorous, upscale shoe design for women is to
amplify and exaggerate the curves of the human
foot, ten Bhömer’s shoes are riotous and sensuous
sinners.” What could fuel such an eccentric
designer’s point of view?
B H ö M E R
er
Fashion/Industrial Design
Dear Marloes, what inspires you most when designing your shoes ?
Marloes ten Bhomer [MB]: I think the biggest influence in my work is that people are interested in the
non understandable and dark side of things. This is obviously something that has always existed, but I
think it is becoming more and more common. I think this is partly due to the fact that we are surrounded
by amazing amounts of electronic equipment and appliances.
Electronic equipment is becoming less and less understandable still there is great trust in technology.
People seem overwhelmed by these objects that are supposed to make ones life easier that they are
looking for challenges. They also want to be surrounded by non pleasing objects, objects that challenge
use with their appearance, way of thinking and feel. I would like to appeal to contemporary fantasies
and ideas of beauty.
How do you create your designs; by hand drawings, computer aided or both ways ?
MB: There are two ways in which I start a shoe design. I either use materials that I play with in order
to come to a shoe or I design something with a pencil and paper after which I need to find a way and
a material in order to make this design into reality. One project specifically employed 3D computer
drawing techniques to come to a design. The heel was been taken away. Instead of the heel there is a
bridge like construction, which leaves the back hollow. I wanted to give the impression of a monolithic
form, out of which a foot has been carved. This is also the way this shoe has been build.
Starting with a hardly shaped block in the computer, carving out all the parts where the foot wants to
be. The shoe was rapid prototyped in a rubber like material. The way I build this shoe is important,
for it is possible to build a flexible shoe without any stitches or traces of handwork in this shoe and no
reference to conventional shoemaking.
Do you design according to the materials you have or search for the right materials for your
designs ?
MB: In some shoes the elements and shapes come from the materials and techniques I am using.
For example; in one of the shoe designs I have used a paper like fabric that was folded around a foot
emulating a shoe form. The folds make direct the straight form of the shoe. Sometimes I have to search
for the right materials to create a technically sound shoe. I have just started a project for example,
in which I start off thinking about bridge and lifting constructions, rather than shoes. The heel in this
project is like as an object that needs to be held and lifted off the ground.
Black Folded Shoes
Materials: Vegetable tan
leather and stainless ste
Colou rs: Bla
Price: £2,250
ck wit h wh
ned
el heel
ite lines
Dutch shoe designer Marloes ten Bhömer
has created a pair of shoes made of
“Beige Folded Shoe”
a single piece of leather folded round Folded piece of leather with stainless
a stainless steel support. Marloes ten steel for the support of the entire
Bhömer launches ‘Beigefoldedshoe’, shoe heel type.
a shoe made from a single piece of 3715 U.S. dollar
folded leather and stainless steel heel
construction, which stems from one of her
visionary footwear concepts, transformed
into a wearable shoe through two years
of design and engineering development. This is a pair of innovative conceptual
Hand made in the UK, and incorporating shoes, if you really like fashion, then this
technical expertise from international pair of shoes definitely make you breath
manufacturers, this special edition shoe, more ahead of the fashion body.
the first to be commercially launched 1. Leather
by MARLOESTENBHÖMER®, is a truly 2. Stainless Steel
unique product.

Designer: Marloes Ten Bhömer

1 SIDE ELEVATION
A3.1 1:50 A3.1
 “Rational Moulded Shoes”
Rational moulding is a molding process for creating many
kinds of mostly hollow items, typically of plastic.
A heated mold causes the material within to melt and
form a puddle at the bottom of the mold cavity. The mold
is then slowly rotated (usually around two perpendicular
- side axes) causing the melted material to flow and stick to
view
the walls of the mold. In order to maintain even thickness
throughout the part, the mold continues to rotate during
the cooling phase.

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THGILF SEKAT NOIHSAF
NI NOSAES SIHT
CIRTEMOEG GNORTS
,DLOB DNA SEPAHS
ETAREGGAXE