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After ensuring the completion of pattern drawing for any particular style and
size, the parts are stored in a separate file. Later it is opened with the 3D image
software packages, which is again the internal part of the pattern design
software. A 3D wire frame or dress form is created for the body image and a
garment is generated. The generated garment is modelled on to the body image.
The system understands ³Surface Topology´ and can also make necessary
calculations for stretch, cling and drape etc., according to the parameters set by
the designers.
In relation to pattern design the ability to move from 2D to 3D is perhaps the
area of most interest. The creation of 2D pattern shapes that can be wrapped
around a virtual mannequin fits nicely within the 2D CAD pattern development
application used within the industry. To move on from this point of develo pment
seems the most likely acceptable way forward for the designer and pattern
maker. The 3D garments that are produced, originate from 2D CAD patterns of
real garments and correspond to the regular sizes.
Apparel companies have used computers since the early 1980¶s. Pattern Design
systems (PDS) have become invaluable tools to the patternmaker, assisting in
much of the repetitive tasks associated with patternmaking. PDS systems are
capable of storing an incredible amount of data that can be quickly retrieved,
tweaked and re-filed. Using a mouse or stylus, patternmakers are able to swiftly
add style details and make changes. There are many benefits to PDS ± speed,
accuracy and ease of data transmission being some of the most obvious. In
today¶s competitive environment, software companies are zeroing in on the
growing demands of the apparel manufacturer.
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1. POINT ON
MOVE POINT
The Move Point tool is used to move a single p oint in an X/Y Direction.
MOVE PROPORTIONAL
MOVE PARALLEL
The Move Parallel tool moves a segment of a piece in an X/Y direction while
maintaining the original shape of the segment.
MOVE ALONG
The Move Along tool is used to move the point along the contour of the piece.
X Click on a point and drag the mouse along the contour of the piece.
X Dialog Box appears.
X Positive value = Clockwise.
X Negative value= Counter Clockwise.
X Click OK.
MOVE POINTS
The Move Points tool is used to move multiple points on a segment in an X/Y
direction for each selected point.
MULTI MOVE
The Multi Move tool is used to move selected segments on more than one piece in
a parallel direction.
ALIGN POINTS
The Align Points Tool command aligns a selected group of points horizontally,
vertically or by a specified angle. Other option is to align the intermediate points.
The default angle is the angle between the first and the last selected points when
choosing the Align Points command, more than one point must be selected. To
select points, use the select tool and click and drag the cursor clockwise. Then
click the Align Points Tool.
To Align Points
X Click and drag to select the points to be aligned with a help of select tool.
X Click on the Align Points Tool.
X hen the Align Points dialog box displays.
X Select Reference Point : First or last.
X Click the Horizontal or Vertical button to align the points.
X All Points will align to the reference point.
X Or Input Angle, and Click By Angle Button.
X Or Align ONLY Intermediate Points so First and Last point will not
change.
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Fabric Pattern
Use this dialog to create a Fabric Pattern File (.FPF). This profile can be used
to upload image files and assign them to different materials in the style. Click
in the ³BITMAP FILE´ column to browse for image file or Right mouse click
in the Material column to add a material. By default the first field is used for
any pieces that have an unnamed Material. This image will show on the
working area using the show Fabric Full Screen Button on the Fabric and
Stripes Toolbar.
It shows the selected fabric(s) ( IMAGE FILE) inside the pieces on the
working area. Images files (.Bmp,.Jpeg,.Tiff,etc) are loaded using the Fabric
Pattern
Editor located in the File Menu.
Circle
The circle to contour tool is used convert an internal circle to an internal contour
with points.
Text
Text tool is used to add text to a piece. It is also used to move the annotation of
the piece to a location other than on top of the grain line.
Join Contours
It is used to join two separate internal segments into one internal segment at a
common point.
Extend Internal
Trim Internal
Types of pleats :-
There are many different types of pleats. Some of the most common are : Knife
pleats, which are pressed to keep an edge, and face in the same direction ; box
pleats, the edges of which face in opposite directions; inverted pleats with edges
brought to face each other at a center line ; sunburst or accordion pleats that are
narrower at the top and wider at the bottom, and kick pleats, generally a single
pleat placed at the bottom of a narrow skirt.
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Use these buttons to move from Grade point to Grade point. The arrow keys on
the keyboard will also do the same function.
Copy Grading
Clicking the Paste Grading button will the ³X´ & ³Y´ values that were copied to
the windows clipboard.
Paste X Grading
It is used to paste only the ³X´ grading that was copied onto the clipboard. This
command is used after copy grading.
Paste Y Grading
It is used to paste only the ³Y´ grading that was copied onto the clipboard. This
command is used after Copy Grading.
It will paste the average grading values that were copied to the clipboard. The is
done by selecting multiple grade points around a segment and then clicking
Paste Grading Around button.
Delete Grading
It is used to put a zero value in both X and Y for the selected Grade Point(s).
Delete X Grading
It will delete the grading for all sizes in the X axis. The X axis column will show
zero.
X Select the Graded Point or points to delete X Grading.
X Click the Delete X Grading button.
Delete Y Grading
It will delete the grading for all sizes in the Y axis. The Y axis column will show
zero.
X Select the Graded Point or Points to delete Y Grading.
X Click the Delete Y Grading button.
Smart paste
This feature when activated will automatically paste the opposite grading values
that you first copied. This save you time not having to flip your grading sign.
hen the function is not activated the paste button will paste exactly what you
copied.
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The short arrow represents the X axis and the long arrow represents the Y axis.
Click the arrow buttons in the angle field to move the axis lines. To find the angle
quickly click the Next point button. This will point the short arrow to the next
grading point and the angle will be shown in the field. Once the Angle has been
determined you can grade either in the X or Y axis and the grading will follow
that angle. The Picture above shows grading at a 57 degree angle for 2 points.
Flip X Grading
It is used to change the X grading sign from positive to negative or from negative
to positive.
X Select the Grading Point or Points to Flip X Grading.
X Click the Flip X Grading button in the Grading Table.
Flip Y Grading
It is used to change the Y grading sign from positive to negative or from negative
to positive.
X Select the Grading Point or Points to Flip Y Grading.
X Click the Flip Y Grading button in the Grading Table.
Equal X Grading
It is used to assign the same grading value to all sizes in the X axis based on the
first value typed in the X axis.
Equal Y Grading
It is used to assign the same grading value to all sizes in the Y axis based on the
first value keyed in the Y axis.
Absolute
It is a display tool. By default the Grading Table and Grading Library grades
incrementally from size to size. hen the Absolute button is activated the
displays changes to show total grading amounts fr om the Base Size.
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ANS 8 :- Introduction to 2D :-
The most common 2D pattern making methods are flat, and drafting. In the flat
method, a pattern is generated from an existing foundation pattern called a
sloper or block. A sloper is a pattern that has no seam allowances or style lines.
From a sloper a myriad of garment styles can be generated. The patternmaker
creates a new style by adding design details such as a collar, pocket and pleats.
The flat pattern making method is widely used in the ready-to-wear market
because it is fast and accurate.
In the drafting method, patterns are made directly from measurements taken
from a pre-existing garment, an individual or a body form. Using the collected
measurement, the pattern is drawn directly onto paper.