Go Green with Rainwater

By Paul Fiebich
09-17-10

Collecting and storing rainwater can reduce your lawn and garden watering expense as well as
contribute to a “green” environment. For the homeowner who is somewhat handy, here's how to make a
water storage unit holding about 100 gallons.

Obtain two containers such as the fifty-five gallon Coca-Cola syrup barrel and the forty gallon
discarded water softener tank shown. If possible, get two that are identical, I couldn't. Build a four-post
wooden framework to accommodate two of the larger sized containers. Framework size is based upon
the interior measurement of 24" X 48".

Use pressure treated fir or similar lumber suitable for outdoor, above grade structures. I used 4 X 4 (3-
1/2” X 3-1/2” actual size) recycled redwood for corner posts, and 2 X 4 (1-1/2” X 3-1/2” actual size)
pressure treated fir lumber elsewhere. For convenience, lumber is referred to by its nominal, not actual
size

Assembled and Finished (framework, barrels, foundation and piping)

 Material Cut List
(4) Posts 4” X 4” X 4 feet long
(2) Cross ties 2” X 4” X 2 feet long
(2) End rails 2” X 4” X 24 inches long
(2) Side rails 2” X 4” X 51 inches long
(2) Platform sides 2” X 4” X 4 feet long
(4) Platform stretchers 2” X 4” X 16 inches long

Framework annotated (Photo description identifying components)

Board Cutting Description

•
Cut both 8 foot long post in half to make four corner posts.
• Cut two, 2 X 4 X 8 foot long boards to include one side rail, one cross tie, and one stretcher
each.
• Cut two, 2 X 4 X 8 foot long boards to include one platform side, one platform end, and one
stretcher each.

For convenience, cut all pieces to length at once, leaving the cut-in pockets to be completed as needed.
The pre-cut lumber controls the framework's size. Assembly dimensions not provided, are left to the
builder's judgment.

Each corner post contains two, 3/4” inch deep X 1-1/2” wide, cut-in pockets on their inside surfaces to
receive the barrel platform and its supporting cross ties. These joints support the rain barrel load (up to
one thousand pounds) in compression rather than by using fastening screws only and no cut-in pockets,
which support in shear. When making the two cut-in pockets in each post, note that each pair of
diagonally opposite posts are different!
 Post cut-in joint pockets

A platform made from 2 X 4s supports the barrels and attaches to the posts. Make four 1/4” deep X 1-
1/2” wide cut-in pockets in one of the large surface of each platform side to receive the stretchers.

Assemble the barrel platform using three-inch long deck screws (not galvanized, which will stain the
wood) for all joints. Drill clearance holes in the first piece of wood the screw passes through, no pilot
holes are necessary in the piece of wood it screws into. Attach the four posts to the assembled barrel
platform. The platform is also supported by two cross ties fitted into the remaining cut-in post pockets
that should be installed now.

The retaining rail is fitted on the outside of the posts. It should be above the barrel's half-way height
measurement. The rail is screwed directly to the posts' outside surfaces. Install the two shorter end rails
first, then the front and rear rails noting how they overlap.

To improve appearance, allow the posts to extend above the railing several inches, add a decorative
finial, and bevel all sharp edges. A brushed coat of wood preservative will extend the structure's
durability and make it look better.

Rest this assembly on a footing that won't sink into the ground. Dig a four inch deep trench for each
pair of end posts. Add two inches of sand, then two inches of paver base. With a small board, screed the
top layer level and tamp firm. Output water pressure is determined by barrel/water height. Position,
level, and add cement blocks on this footing to achieve your goal. In earthquake-prone regions, secure
the framework to a solid structure.
Make a riser from wood or patio stones to elevate one barrel higher than the other, place the barrels in
the framework. Divert an eaves trough downspout to enter the higher barrel. Connect the barrels with
PVC pipe or similar conduit thus allowing water to overflow from the higher barrel to the lower one.
Make a similar overflow tube from the second tank to drain onto the lawn. Cut a hole near the bottom
of each barrel and Install a water tank heater drain valve, a rubber washer and a securing nut.

Assembled without barrels

Attach a (delivery) garden hose to a drain valve fitting and wait for rain to fill the barrels. Water flows
downhill by gravity, however it can be siphoned over structures higher than the barrels. The best
watering results are achieved by connecting the delivery hose to a soaker hose lying among the garden
plants. To avoid creating a mosquito breeding area, place one fourth of a biological mosquito control
tablet such as “Mosquito Dunks” and one cup of bleach in each barrel when it is refilled.
 Piping---Downspout entry, overflow to second tank,
overflow from second tank to ground level splash block

Congratulations! You have just done your part to conserve a natural resource and reduce your water
bill. Total cost of this system is about $75.00, dependent upon your scrounging ability and use of
recycled material. Prior to winter freezing, drain the tanks and reconnect the downspout, returning it to
its original position.

Watering directly from the delivery hose

All photos were taken by Paul Fiebich as construction progressed. July 21, 2010