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Ziynet Ondogan,

Cetin Erdogan
The Comparison of the Manual
and CAD Systems for Pattern Making,
Grading and Marker Making Processes
Ege University, Engineering Faculty,
Textile Engineering Department,
35100 Bornova-Izmir, TURKEY
Phone: 00.90.532.285 84 34
Fax: 00.90.232.339 92 22
E-mail: ondoganz@egenet.com.tr Abstract
E-mail: erdogan@textil.ege.edu.tr The objective of this research is to conduct a comparison in pattern and marker making
between the CAD and manual methods as regards individual course steps and total time
values, and to determine the effective of model complexity on these times. For this purpose,
four models starting from the simplest to the most complex were designed, and the course
steps of the traditional manual method and CAD were first established. Each course step was
carried out repeatedly by an expert according to statistical norms. In order to determine in
which steps and for which model CAD can be more productive, the data obtained for both
methods was compared with respect to the individual time value of each course step and the
total time values. Furthermore, the possible causes of the results obtained were discussed
and suggestions were put forward.

Keywords: development of CAD, functions of CAD, model complexity, pattern making,


marker making.

n Introduction day, or sometimes the following week. However, it needs some corrections by
These methods, such as transforming the the operator so as to improve cutting
Devices performing high-tech services work of the designer into the punches on quality and fabric usage productivity [7].
in the apparel industry are commonly re- the cards and arranging their positions in Today, the three-dimensional body scan-
ferred to as ‘CAD/CAM’. In the apparel jacquard weaves and knits, required long ner is a promising new technology that
industry, CAD systems are mainly used and arduous efforts during routine textile will contribute revolutionary changes
in various processes such as garment processes. This process was first put into to the conception, design, manufacture
design, pattern preparation, pattern grad- practice at MIT in the years 1963-4. In and distribution of apparel. Currently,
ing and marker making. CAM systems the beginning, the data was loaded onto the quantification of fit is complex and
include computerissed sewing machines, central computers simultaneously. Af- ambiguous, and objective methods, such
fabric spreading & cutting systems, and ter some time, graphic terminals were as comparison of linear measurements,
mover systems used during the sewing developed, which proved to be a great are inadequate. Body scanning provides
process of apparel production [14]. help. The real development, on the other multi-dimensional data that can provide
hand, which paved the way for creative new insights into sizing and grading
While computerised sewing machines, designing, started with the introduction systems [3].
spreading systems, cutting machines of interactive computers. Mini-comput-
and mover mechanisms provide a highly ers started to be used by small groups of The 3D PDS system, developed for 3D
technological support during the produc- people, and our modern-day PCs formed pattern designing, originates from the
tion phase, CAD systems are extensively strong networks with one another. It be- shape of the body. It is possible to apply
used during the preproduction phase, come possible to see on the screen what not only a standard mannequin within
which is labour-intensive [16]. the designer had in mind at a period no the system, but also models selected or
later than the time he would have spent if created by the user. Thus, more suitable
During the design and production phases, he had drawn the whole design himself. body measurements can be applied for
CAD/CAM systems indirectly improve Now, designers had no excuse not to made-to-measure garments [20].
the productivity and efficiency of compa- make use of the creative changes provid-
nies by contributing to the integration and ed by this favourable environment [8]. How functional the related software is
automation processes. CAD/CAM con- affects the continuation of development.
stitutes the technological infrastructure By the end of 1993, many CAD/CAM Tendencies are mostly towards auto-
of the concept of ‘CIM’, which has been vendors had automatic marker-making mated garment development from body
described as ‘the factory of the future’ [2]. capability. However, much work remains scan data. For body scanning to support
to be done, due to the heuristic nature automated garment development, auto-
of the process. The technique is only matic integration of measurement data
n Development of CAD systems employed for costing purposes, with the into commercially available CAD/CAM
In the 1960s, several brands of comput- interactive method being the choice for software must be achieved first. To date,
ers were introduced onto the market, and production markers. A programme that body scan data does not automatically
textile engineers started to think about enables an automatic marker-making integrate with any commercially avail-
CAD. These machines, called main- system to compact patterns (by placing able CAD/CAM system or measurement
frames, were gigantic devices. Punch- the pattern pieces as closely together as extraction algorithmic process. The lack
cards were prepared and then processed possible) in only 30-45 seconds has been of standard formats for transmitting body
in the computer using the technology of developed. This programme compacts scan data further impedes the process, in
the time. The result of the work that was markers automatically in less time, al- that a recipient of body scan data can-
ordered could only be obtained the next most as efficiently as an operator does. not currently be assured that the critical

62 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / March 2006, Vol. 14, No. 1 (55)
measurements needed for the product de- below, the number of pieces were ar- CAD systems
sign have been appropriately extracted. ranged so as to increase the numbers Five different CAD systems were used
The principle of this research, to link crit- steadily; to obtain the findings: Assyst, Gerber,
ical garment sizing measurements with n Model 1; consists of 5 pieces (Figure 1), Investronica, Konsan, Lectra.
critical anthropometric measurements n Model 2; consists of 7 pieces (Figure 2),
extracted from body scans, is planned as n Model 3; consists of 9 pieces (Figure 3),
a three-year investigation. In years 2 and n Model 4; consists of 11 pieces (Figure 4). n Methodology
3 we will move toward the development Evaluation Research aims to demonstrate
and activation of the model, culminating Garment patterns to what extent previously stated targets
in the creation of the integration linkage Patterns belonging to all models were have been reached within the unity of
necessary for Automated Garment De- prepared according to the steps shown the research by trying to determine the
velopment [5]. below; relationship among input, output, process
n Main size pattern preparation, and performance variables in the studies
n Grading of main size patterns, being carried out [10].
n Material n Different sizes separated by copying
The material for this study consists of nest sizes on transparent pattern papers, Considering the fact that this research
garment models, patterns, transparent n Cardboard patterns obtained by trans- includes analytic assessments, the Evalu-
pattern papers, cardboards, CAD sys- ferring these transparent patterns on ation Survey Methodology was chosen,
tems, a chronometer and fabrics. cardboard. as it is the most suitable method for the
objective direction, application studies
Garment Models Fabrics and data evaluation of the research.
A basic t-shirt was chosen as a model, All fabrics are without pattern. The fabric
due to the fact that it is manufactured parameters are as stated below: Technical drawings and size set tables
widely in small-, medium- and large- n 120 g/m2 in weight, 88 cm in width, of the basic t-shirt which form the ma-
scale companies in the apparel sector, 100% cotton 30/1 single jersey tubular terial of this research were prepared by
and that it is in constant demand on the fabric, the author. These technical drawings are
market throughout the year. n 120 g/m2 in weight, 120 cm in width, proportional and equipped with neces-
100% cotton 30/1 single jersey open sary measurements, sewing instructions
Starting with the basic t-shirt, a total of width fabric, and fabric varieties for the preparation of
four t-shirt models were worked on and n 140 g/m2 in weight, 45 cm in width, garment patterns.
graded, increasing the number of pieces 100% cotton 30/1 1×1 rib tubular fab-
for each model steadily. As can be seen ric. Two methods were applied to obtain
the findings in the research, the manual
method and the CAD method. Then, the
stages for carrying out the research were
determined. On this basis the procedures
forming the research were also estab-
lished [18]. These were determined sepa-
rately for the manual and CAD working
methods.

Either of the two procedures stated below


can be followed to work the model with
the CAD system:
1- Digitising the main size patterns after
preparing them manually,
Figure 1. Model 1. Figure 2. Model 2. 2- Preparing from the beginning of the
main size patterns using CAD.

To follow the latter procedure, CAD


system operators have to be good pattern
designers at the same time. This is not a
frequently encountered situation in the
apparel industry. Mostly, the main size
patterns are prepared manually and then
digitised by following the former proce-
dure in the industry.

In this research, the main size patterns


were prepared manually by the author to
be digitised, due to the fact that a method
similar to the course of the work in the
Figure 3. Model 3. Figure 4. Model 4. industry was used.

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / March 2006, Vol. 14, No. 1 (55) 63
Table 1. Stages and procedures for the manual working method. structions by the author, and the work
was carried out under her supervision.
Number Stages Procedures
of stage
1. Main size pattern preparation - Two procedures were followed to ob-
Main size pattern checking and A. Measurement check tain findings in the research. The stages
2. B. Checking of face to face sewing places
correction C. Main size pattern correction and procedures for the manual working
Putting necessary allowances on A. Production gathering allowances method are shown in Table 1.
3. B. Shrinkage allowances
patterns C. Seam allowances
4. Main size pattern size setting - Stages and procedures for the CAD
A. Measurement check working method are shown in Table 2.
5. Size set patterns check and correction B. Checking of face to face sewing places
C. Correction of size set patterns
A. Separation of sizes of nested patterns
B. Cutting of patterns on transparent papers
Each course step was timed by a dig-
C. Checking of patterns on transparent papers ital chronometer while carrying out the
D. Correction of patterns on transparent papers
6. Arrangements prior to marker making E. Transferring patterns on transparent papers to timing process; human activity and the
cardboard
F. Checking the patterns on cardboard
usage of production instruments for the
G. Correcting the patterns on cardboard person doing the work (or the production
H. Cutting the patterns on cardboard
instrument being used) were also taken
A. Fabric and rib marker making
7. Marker making and correction into consideration [19]. Based on these
B. Checking and correcting fabric and rib marker
8. Marker plotting A. Fabric marker plotting usage times and activities, timings were
B. Rib marker plotting
also taken for the ‘Main Activity’ and
‘Alternative Activity’, & the ‘Main Us-
Table 2. Stages and procedures for the CAD system working method. age’ and ‘Alternative Usage’.
Number Stages Procedures
of stage The concept of production loss is often
A. Main size pattern preparation manually expressed in terms of losses suffered
1. Main size pattern preparation B. Digitising main size patterns
A. Measurement check due to a failure to obtain appropriate and
Main size pattern checking and
2. B. Checking of face to face sewing places profitable returns from the investment.
correction C. Main size pattern correction
Putting necessary allowances on A. Production gathering allowances The three kinds of losses experienced
3. B. Shrinkage allowances
patterns C. Seam allowances in industrial establishments are losses in
4. Main size pattern size setting - work power, production activities, raw
A. Measurement check materials and accessories [4].
5. Size set patterns check and correction B. Checking of face to face sewing places
C. Correction of size set patterns
6. Arrangements prior to marker making A. Model file preparation Similar losses are also observed in the
B. Order file preparation
apparel sector. The share of raw materi-
A. Fabric and rib marker making
7. Marker making and correction als and accessories, which are the main
B. Fabric and rib marker check and correction
8. Marker plotting A. Fabric marker plotting items of the apparel industry, reaches
B. Rib marker plotting
50-60% of production costs. These losses
suffered in the apparel industry are pieces
The research was carried out in two The pattern designers had 15-20 years of called ‘waste and surplus fabric’, and
directions: In the first direction, the man- experience in the industry, and were ca- they often do not have any definite com-
ual method was compared with the CAD pable of preparing patterns on all kinds of mercial value [6]. Therefore, the effects
method to investigate the effects of model models. The pattern technicians chosen of the CAD system on the cost of fabric,
complexity. The course steps and proce- had the same level of experience and ex- which has the greatest share within the
dures for the model chosen were applied pertise as their colleagues in the industry. total product cost, were also included
both manually and by the CAD method. The CAD system operators were chosen into the scope of the research.
The course steps and procedures for the from among people who had good com-
manual method were realised by the au- mand of patterns and the CAD system. For this reason, after the completion
thor. Those for the CAD method were re- The required duties were presented to of all kinds of work related to patterns,
alised by an expert CAD system operator. both groups in the form of a list of in- markers were prepared both manually

During the studies carried out in the


second direction, the aim was to com-
pare the manual method with the CAD
method separately for each stage value
and the total values. At this point only
the ‘Model-1’ was handled, and related
stages and procedures were conducted
5 times by 5 different expert pattern
designers and pattern technicians, and 5
times by 5 different expert CAD system
operators and operator assistants by us- Figure 5. Comparison of the manual and Figure 6. Comparison of manual and CAD
ing five different CAD systems. CAD methods (4Models). systems.

64 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / March 2006, Vol. 14, No. 1 (55)
and by CAD. If the difficulty of working Table 3. Time-related data according to stages for manual and CAD methods (4 Models);
with cardboard patterns in an area with a Unit time: second.
minimum width of 85-90 cm and a length
Model
of 10-15 m, and the greatness of fabric Number
1 2 3 4
waste are considered, the convenience of stage
Manual CAD Manual CAD Manual CAD Manual CAD
and utility of CAD systems in preparing 1 585 750 790 470 1,065 590 1,110 435
markers can be better understood [14]. 2 55 110 115 35 110 50 120 45
3 545 165 725 185 1,090 200 955 345
At this point, markers were initially pre- 4 1,200 345 1,210 0 1,330 30 1,575 45
pared by using cardboard patterns on a 5 490 55 245 150 480 170 220 180
long table, and replicated five times by 6 13,630 115 19,925 150 25,750 90 28,970 140
five different persons. Then the opera- 7 715 325 715 995 780 970 1,055 1,000
tors repeated the same procedure on the 8 940 1,640 2,030 1,645 1,705 2,020 2,145 1,380
CAD. The system enables the grain line Total 17,955 3,770 25,450 4,065 32,025 4,590 35.780 3,975
of the patterns to be parallel to the warp, Manual - CAD + 14,185 + 21,385 + 27,465 + 31,805
the pieces to be accurate, and the special
restrictions related to patterns determined
previously to be properly applied. The re- Table 4. Findings obtained as result of assessment of time-related data by Mann Whitney
Test (4 Models).
sults obtained using both methods were
compared. Statistical data
Model Methods Standard Standard
X Median P
Deviation Error
n Evaluation of findings 1
Manual 1,816 565 4,170 1,319
0.2413
CAD 350 140 505 160
The Mann Whitney U Test was used to Manual 2,575 720 6,128 1,938
evaluate the findings obtained. The Mann 2
CAD 363 122 545 172
0.2123
Whitney Test is a method of statistical Manual 3,231 922 7,933 2,509
evaluation which compares the medians 3 0.0963
CAD 412 100 644 204
of two independent samples, and which Manual 3,615 1,005 8,938 2,826
is nonparametric. It is used if the two in- 4 0.1859
CAD 357 122 469 148
dependent groups are the same. This test Manual 28,094 29,032 7,892 3,946
Toplam 0.0304
does not necessitate a normal or near- CAD 3,706 3,600 281 140
normal distribution, but it needs the ob-
tainment of the following hypothesis [1].
n Random sampling, Table 5. Time-related values based on stages for manual and CAD systems (Model 1); Unit
time: seconds.
n Independent sampling,
n Independent observations for each Number of Repeats
Methods
sampling. stage 1 2 3 4 5
MANUAL 420 460 430 500 440
1
Findings and discussion CAD 645 585 640 720 570

Time-related data obtained as a result of MANUAL 60 65 80 120 55


2
studies conducted can be seen below in CAD 280 25 200 365 200

Table 3. As can be seen in this table, the MANUAL 285 305 285 555 545
3
CAD 475 155 150 190 355
time difference between the manual and
MANUAL 1,110 1,030 990 1,170 1,080
CAD methods increases as one moves 4
CAD 275 345 245 480 380
from Model-1 to Model-4; in other
MANUAL 210 505 305 575 490
words, from the simple model to the 5
CAD 205 55 115 465 180
more complicated one.
MANUAL 5,870 6,000 6,040 6,185 6,255
6
CAD 190 115 145 210 70
Figure 5 shows the graph obtained as
MANUAL 500 530 325 420 470
a result of a comparison between the 7
CAD 345 150 475 510 445
manual and CAD methods with regard to
MANUAL 2,440 2,315 915 1,530 1,245
time-related data for the four models . 8
CAD 1,750 800 1,825 950 1,990
MANUAL 10,895 11,210 9,370 11,055 10,580
At this point, the time values increase in Total
CAD 4,165 2,230 3,795 3,890 4,190
the manual method as one moves from
Difference MANUAL - CAD 6,730 8,980 5,575 7,165 6,390
Model-1 to Model-4, whereas the values
for the CAD system remain within a
close range. value was seen to have reached its lowest level in Model 4, which has the highest
level in Model 3, which has the longest number of pieces.
Findings obtained after the data in Ta- pattern perimeter due to having long
ble 3 were assessed by the Mann Whit- sleeves. It has also been observed that Moreover, in the assessment of total
ney Test, as shown in Table 4. The ‘P’ the ‘P’ value reached its second lowest times for all models, where P:0.0304

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / March 2006, Vol. 14, No. 1 (55) 65
Table 6. Findings obtained as a result of assessment of values by means of Mann Whitney Test (Model 1).

Statistical data
Number Significant In favour
Methods Standart Standart P
of stage X Median of difference of method
Deviation Error P < 0.05
MANUAL 450.0 440.0 31.6 14.1
1 0.0122 significant manual
CAD 632.0 640.0 59.2 26.5
MANUAL 76.0 65.0 26.3 11.8 no significant between
2 0.1437
CAD 214.0 200.0 125.8 56.2 the two methods
MANUAL 395.0 305.0 141.8 63.4 no significant between
3 0.2101
CAD 265.0 190.0 144.2 64.5 the two methods
MANUAL 1,076.0 1,080.0 69.9 31.2
4 0.0122 significant CAD
CAD 345.0 345.0 92.7 41.4
MANUAL 417.0 490.0 152.8 68.3
5 0.0367 significant CAD
CAD 204.0 180.0 157.2 70.3
MANUAL 6,070.0 6,040.0 152.7 68.3
6 0.0122 significant CAD
CAD 146.0 145.0 56.5 25.3
MANUAL 449.0 470.0 80.3 35.9 between
7 0.6761 no significant
CAD 385.0 445.0 145.0 64.9 the two methods
MANUAL 1,689.0 1,530.0 667.0 298.0 between
8 0.6761 no significant
CAD 1,463.0 1,750.0 546.0 244.0 the two methods
MANUAL 10,622.0 10,895.0 738.0 330.0
Total 0.0122 difference significant CAD
CAD 3,654.0 3,890.0 814.0 364.0

(P<0.05), the difference stemming from the patterns to be processed increased, n In steps such as checking, correcting
the comparison of the manual method and this continued in the same manner and putting necessary allowances
with CAD has been found to be in favour at an increasing pace until the end of the on main size patterns, no significant
of CAD. eighth stage. difference has been found between
the two methods, due to effects of
Time-related data obtained as the result Findings obtained as a result of assess- personal skills and productivity in
of studies carried out in order to make ment of data given in Table 5 by means particular.
a comparison of manual and CAD of the Mann Whitney Test are shown in n Since grading main size patterns,
systems is seen in Table 5. An exami- Table 6 together with the comparison of checking graded patterns and making
nation of total values of time-related findings related to the manual method for arrangements prior to marker making
data will reveal the fact that the time each stage. procedures demand manual labour
periods related to CAD are shorter than and time, it is only natural for the
those for the manual system. The graph Keeping in mind that one of the most im- CAD systems to be advantageous in
obtained as a result of a comparison of portant aims of using CAD is to minimise these steps.
time-related data found for manual and the waste of fabric, patterns for 4 models n During marker-making preparation,
CAD systems in Model 1 is shown in were placed on a 120-cm wide fabric checking, correcting and plotting
Figure 6. using manual and CAD systems, in ac- procedures, neither method was found
cordance with distribution of sizes shown to be superior to the other, which was
As can be seen at this point, the situation in Table 7, markers prepared and marker unpredicted.
which was in favour of the manual meth- lengths measured (Table 8). n In assessing the total times for all
od in the first, second and third stage has stages, the level of significance be-
started to change in favour of the CAD tween the two methods was found in
method starting from the fourth stage, n Results favour of CAD, as predicted.
as the number of sizes and consequently n When the differences between the
In the study, the following results were marker lengths prepared manually and
Table 7. Distribution of sizes in marker. obtained on the basis of the CAD and by CAD are examined, it will be seen
manual methods. that the marker prepared by CAD was
Sizes XS S M L XL
Quantities 1 2 3 2 1
shorter even in Model 1, which is the
In the preparation of main size patterns, simplest one, and that the difference
the manual system seems to be superior between the marker lengths prepared
Table 8. Marker lengths (4 Models). due to the fact that the main size patterns manually and by CAD increased in
are prepared in advance manually and favour of CAD as the number of pat-
Lengths, m
then digitised. These methods were pre- terns increased and the size of patterns
Difference
Models Manual CAD system
Manual ferred since the system operators do not decreased, which can be seen in the
method method
- CAD have sufficient qualifications. other models.
1 9.85 9.49 0.36
2 11.60 10.19 1.41 The results obtained in the first stage are Making use of CAD helps economise
3 15.42 14.36 1.06 associated with the above mentioned ap- on fabric usage in addition to improving
4 10.90 9.75 1.15
plication. stage times. This clearly shows that CAD

66 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / March 2006, Vol. 14, No. 1 (55)
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FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / March 2006, Vol. 14, No. 1 (55) 67

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