Professional Documents
Culture Documents
After Charles II became king, a whim of the foreign princess became the
Drink of the Queen. This fact secured the success of tea first among
aristocracy, and then among other English citizens. The popularity was
formed slowly but forever.
The spreading of tea in England had very serious opponents — coffee and
beer merchants. Suspecting (not without grounds) that the new drink can be
a serious business rival, they lobbied (in 1684) high import duties on tea.
The duties quintupled the cost of the drink and led to the emergency of tea
smuggling (from the Netherlands) and wide spread of counterfeit tea. It was
in this period (the end of the 17th century) that the English began to show
preference for black tea and not green. Because black tea was more
difficult to imitate.
In 1708, East India Company was created.East India Company is one of the
wonders of the world. It is not an exaggeration. There has not been another
event like this in world history. It was this company, with its own fleet, own
army, and unlimited for that time financial capacity, that created the British
Empire. For us, however, the Empire is of no importance ; all the more
since nothing has remained of it. What is important is that for East India
Company to import tea was more profitable than to import coffee. Despite
the popularity and precedence of coffee, it was doomed (though finally tea
surpassed coffee by popularity only in the latter half of the 19th century).
From 1700 to 1721 import rates of tea into England increased fifty times.
Tea was brought from China ; until the middle of the 19 th century there was
no other tea but Chinese (Japan exported next to nothing).
There was one problem in the tea trade between England and China. The
Chinese sold tea only in exchange for silver. Shipping silver from England
was not profitable — in 1776 a splendid idea struck the English. They
started to bring opium from India into China; there they sold it to the
Chinese for silver, and this silver they used to pay for tea. Everything was
just fine — ships loaded with one herb came to China, and then ships with
another herb left China. Despite the illegality of such trade, the Chinese
tolerated it until 1839.
In 1784 English Parliament decreased tea import duties almost ten times. It
was tea lobbying this time and the initiator was Daniel Twining. Tea fell in
price and became national English drink. At the same time tea smuggling
failed. In 1802 tea was introduced into the ration of the British army. In 1824
a daily portion of rum at the Royal British Navy was decreased from a half-
pint to a quarter of a pint. Rum was partially replaced by tea in the ration.
The reaction was immediate — seamen called the mixture of tea with rum
grog after the nickname of Admiral Edward Vernon (Old Grogram — from
his grogram cloak), who initiated this change.
Foreseeing possible problems with the trade with China, the English were
trying to find ways to grow tea in their own colonies. In 1823, on the
government’s instructions, Charles Bruce smuggled tea seeds and saplings
from China. In 1820 (according to another version in 1826) in Assam, an
Indian state, wild growing tea trees were discovered — and the idea of
growing tea outside China from the revolutionary one began to become
evident. In 1834 a special committee on analysing possibilities of cultivating
tea in India was created. In 1835 first tea estates in Assam were marked
out. And, finally, in 1836 the first consignment of Assam tea appeared in
Calcutta’s markets.
In 1840 the most beautiful part of English tea history started. First, Anna
Maria Stanhope, the 7th Duchess of Bedford, completely formed the English
tea tradition, and invented afternoon tea — tea between lunch and dinner,
accompanied with refined conversation, sweet gossip and fine etiquette,
which was polished in Victorian time and exceeded any oriental tea
ceremony by complexity.
Second, at this time, the famous tea clipper (high-speed sailing vessel
designed in the USA and successfully reproduced in Britain) races began.
These beauties of vessels brought tea from China into England incredibly
fast — in 90-100 days. The speed was very important — regardless of any
packaging, during the sea voyage tea got spoiled and its price dropped.
One and a half century ago time was already money. On 30th May, 1866
dramatically ended the most famous tea clipper race. After 99 days of
sailing side by side Ariel was the first to enter the mouth of the Themes. But
having lower draft she could not moor and had to wait for the rising
tide. Taiping moored first and won the race, being only 12 minutes faster
than Ariel. The opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 made the tea races
senseless and clippers began to bring wool from Australia.
In 1870, R. Twining & Co. Ltd. first began to blend teas to improve the taste
of the final drink, on the one hand, and to provide customers with the
stability of quality, on the other hand. The matter is that quality, taste, and
flavor of tea depend on many different things. There are no two identical
consignments of tea — even if they were plucked in the same tea garden.
The western business culture, however, is the culture of stable quality.
Buying tea labeled English Breakfast, the customer wants to get a particular
drink and he does not care what the weather was like in this or that tea
garden. Tea blending solved this problem. Nowadays almost all teas sold in
the West are blends of invariable quality and different content. Thanks to
the English.
In 1875, Thomas Lipton opened his first shop. Then he became the father
of the modern aggressive advertising, founder of the tea empire, and the
man who made Ceylon a tea island. The case with Ceylon was quite
amusing. Originally, it was an island of coffee (from 1825). But in 1869
some detrimental fungus destroyed almost all coffee plantations and they
were promptly replaced by tea gardens. And already in 1887, the amount of
tea brought from India and Ceylon to Britain exceeded the amount of tea
brought from China.
By the end of the 19th century, the forming of the Tea Britain was for the
most part over. Brooke Bond and Lipton (now both these trade marks
belong to Unilever NV/Plc) laid the foundation of the modern tea trade; in
England, blends of Indian and Ceylon teas became more popular than
Chinese tea; tea became an element of the English mass culture; tea
manufactories of India and Ceylon began to become tea industry.
Afternoon Tea is Born
Tea consumption increased dramatically during the early nineteenth century
and it is around this time that Anna Maria Stanhope, the 7th Duchess of
Bedford is said to have complained of "having that sinking feeling" during
the late afternoon. At the time it was usual for people to take only two main
meals a day, breakfast, and dinner at around 8 o'clock in the evening. The
solution for the Duchess was a pot a tea and a light snack, taken privately
in her boudoir during the afternoon.
Later friends were invited to join her in her rooms at Woburn Abbey and this
summer practice proved so popular that the Duchess continued it when she
returned to London, sending cards to her friends asking them to join her for
"tea and a walking the fields." Other social hostesses quickly picked up on
the idea and the practice became respectable enough to move it into the
drawing room. Before long all of fashionable society was sipping tea and
nibbling sandwiches in the middle of the afternoon.
Occasionally you will see hotels serving a ‘high tea'. Traditionally, the upper
classes would serve a ‘low' or ‘afternoon' tea around four o'clock, just
before the fashionable promenade in Hyde Park. The middle and lower
classes would have a more substantial ‘high' tea later in the day, at five or
six o'clock, in place of a late dinner. The names derive from the height of
the tables on which the meals are served, high tea being served at the
dinner table.
Many visitors from overseas still imagine that we are a nation where, in the
words of the well-known song, ‘at half past three, everything stops for tea'.
Sadly these days Afternoon Tea is usually only an occasional luxury for the
British; a birthday treat in a country house hotel, or a welcome break from a
hectic days shopping ‘in town'. Luckily the tourist is still able to indulge in a
little bit of British tradition for him or herself.
Types of tea
Introduction
With all the various kinds of tea on the market today – black, red, oolong, green, white –
it may surprise some people that all tea comes from the same plant. The different kinds
of tea are the result of how the leaves are processed after picking them.
The biggest factor that determines the kind of tea is the oxidation – sometimes called
fermentation – of the leaves. Oxidation is the natural chemical process that all vegetable
matter undergoes after being picked, and the level of oxidation of tea leaves produces
the various kinds of tea.
Of the three main kinds of tea, green tea has undergone the shortest oxidation period.
The leaves are steamed or fried as soon as possible after they are picked to stop the
oxidation process. Green tea is often referred to as an “un-oxidized” or “un-fermented”
tea.
Oolong tea is a semi-oxidized tea. The leaves undergo partial oxidation – somewhere
between 30% and 80%. The more the leaves are oxidized, the darker they become.
This brings us to the final and most popular of all the kinds of tea – black tea. Tea leaves
for black tea have been fully oxidized, and that is why they have a dark color and brew
to a dark liquid.
Green tea
As well as black teas, China produces five other principal types for which the country is famous: Green,
Oolong, White, Flavoured and Compressed teas. With some exceptions - such as Lapsang Souchong,
Gunpowder and Keemun - most teas from China are not easily found in the general marketplace.
BLACK TEAS
Lapsang Souchon
Perhaps the most famous china tea, the best coming from the hills in north Fujian. It is a unique large leaf
tea distinguished by its smoky aroma and flavour. The tarry taste is acquired through drying over pine
wood fires.
The legend about the origin of Lapsang Souchong is that the smoking process was discovered
by accident. An army is said to have camped in a tea factory that was full of drying leaves which had to
be moved to accommodate the soldiers. When the soldiers left, the leaves needed to be dried quickly, so
the workers lit open fires of pinewood to speed up the drying. The tea reached the market on time and a
new flavour had been created.
The real story about why these teas from Fujian province have a smoky flavour is that in the early 17th
century when the Chinese tea producers began to export their teas to Europe and America, their
traditional green teas did not travel well and quickly lost quality during the 15-18 month journey across
land and sea. The producers developed a method of rolling, oxidising and drying their teas so that they
would hold their quality for longer. Once the teas had been oxidised, they were spread on bamboo
baskets which were placed on racks in the drying room. This was built over ovens that allowed the heat to
rise up through vents in the ceiling and into the drying room above. To fire the ovens, the tea
manufacturers used the local pine wood from the forests that surrounded (and still surround) the factories,
and as the wood slowly burned, it gave off a certain amount of smoke that was absorbed by the drying tea
and gave it a lightly smoked, sappy, pine character.
The factories that made those lightly smoked black teas in Fujian province still manufacture lightly smoked
Lapsangs in exactly the same way as they did 400 years ago. The teas are often called Bohea Lapsangs
- the term Bohea being a derivation of 'Wuyi', the name of the famous mountain area where these teas are
made. They also manufacture the much smokier Lapsang Souchongs that are popular today.
Keemun
A popular black tea from Anhui Province, this is a 'gonfu' tea - which means that it is made with disciplined
skill to produce the thin tight strips of leaf without breaking the leaves. The tight black leaves give a rich
brown liquor, which has a lightly scented nutty flavour and delicate aroma.
Yunnan
A black tea from the province of Yunnan in the south west of China. It has a rich, earthy, malty flavour
similar to Assam teas and is best drunk with milk. It makes an excellent breakfast tea.
Other recommended China black teas are Keemun Mao Feng (Hair Point) and Szechwan Imperial.
GREEN TEAS
Many green China teas are still traditionally made by hand using methods that have been handed down
from generation to generation. However, more and more teas are now made in mechanised factories.
Green teas are totally unoxidised (compared to black teas which are fully oxidised) and so the first stage
of the manufacturing process is to kill any enzymes that would otherwise cause oxidation to take place.
To de-enzyme them, the freshly plucked leaves are either steamed (to make 'sencha-type teas) or
tumbled quickly in a wok or panning machine (to make pan-fired teas) and are then rolled by hand or
machine to give the leaf a particular appearance - some teas are twisted, some curved, some rolled into
pellets, etc. To remove all but 2-3% of the remaining water, the tea is then dried in hot ovens or over
charcoal stoves.
Gunpowder
Most Gunpowder tea is produced in Pingshui in Zheijian Province. After it has been pan-fired to de-
enzyme it, the leaf is rolled into small pellets and then dried. The pellets look remarkably like lead shot or
gunpowder, giving the tea its descriptive name. The pellets come in different sizes - the smaller the leaf
plucked and rolled, the smaller the pellet - and grades range from tiny 'pinhead' gunpowder to larger
'peahead' gunpowder. Gunpowder tea has a soft honey or coppery liquor with a herby smooth light taste.
Chun Mee
Chun Mee literally means 'precious eyebrows' and the shape of the leaves give this tea its name. The
processing of 'eyebrow' teas demands great skill in order to hand roll and dry the leaves to the correct
shape at the right temperature for the correct length of time. These long, fine jade leaves give a clear, pale
yellow liquor with a smooth taste.
Other green teas from China include Longjing (Dragon's Well) from Zheijiang; Taiping Hon Kui (Monkey
King) from Anhui; and Youngxi Huo Qing (Firegreen).
Oolong
Traditionally from China's Fujian province and Taiwan, these are semi-oxidised teas that vary from
greenish rolled oolongs (that give a light, floral liquor reminiscent of lily of the valley, narcissus, orchid or
hyacinth) to dark brown leafed oolongs (that yield liquors with deeper, earthier flavours and lingering hints
of peach and apricot).
There are two distinct types of oolong tea: the dark one and the green one.
To manufacture the darker leafed oolongs, the freshly plucked leaf is withered, then shaken or 'rattled' in
bamboo baskets or in a bamboo tumbling machine to lightly bruise parts of the leaf, then oxidised for a
short time so that the bruised parts of the leaf begin to oxidise. When 60-70% oxidation has been
reached, the leaf is dried.
To manufacture the greener oolongs, the leaf is withered and then wrapped inside a large cloth and rolled
in a special machine. The bag is then opened and the leaf is spread out briefly to oxidise lightly. The leaf
is repeatedly wrapped, rolled and oxidised until approximately 30% oxidation has been achieved. The tea
is then dried to remove all but 2-3% of the remaining water. The most famous of these greener, light,
fragrant oolongs is Tie Kuan YIn which has a hyacinth or narcissus character.
All oolongs are better drunk without milk.
WHITE TEAS
White teas traditionally come from China's Fujian province and are made from leaf buds and leaves of the
Da Bai (Big White) tea varietal by the simplest process of all teas. Very young new leaf buds and baby
leaves are simply gathered and dried - often in the sun. The manufacturing process includes no withering,
no steaming, no rolling, no oxidising and no shaping. The best known white teas are Pai Mu Tan (White
Peony) which is made using new leaf buds and a few very young leaves, and Yin Zhen (Silver Needles)
which is made from just the new leaf buds.
Yin Zhen
From the Fuijan province, this tea is made from tender new buds that are covered in silvery white hairs
and it's name means 'Silver Needles'.
PUERH TEAS
The official Chinese definition for Puerh tea is "Products fermented from green tea of big leaves picked
within Yunnan province". However, even Chinese specialists cannot agree on the true definition but, in
general terms, Puerh teas are teas from Yunnan that are aged for up to 50 years in humidity- and
temperature-controlled conditions to produce teas that have a typically earthy, mature, smooth flavour and
aroma.
There are two types of Puerh tea made by two different methods of manufacture: Naturally Fermented
Puerh tea (also known as Raw Tea or Sheng Tea) and Artificially Fermented Puerh tea (also known as
Ripe Tea or Shou Tea).
To make Naturally Fermented Puerh tea, fresh leaves from the bush are withered, de-enzymed in a
large wok, twisted and rolled by hand, dried in the sun, steamed to soften them and then left loose or
compressed into flat cakes or blocks of various shapes. The tea is then stored in controlled conditions to
age and acquire its typically earthy character.
To make Artificially Fermented Puerh tea, fresh tea leaves are withered, de-enzymed in a large wok,
twisted and rolled by hand, dried in the sun and then mixed with a fixed quantity of water, piled, covered
with large 'blankets' made from hide and left to ferment. The tea is stirred at intervals and the whole
process takes several weeks. When the teas have fermented to a suitable level, they are steamed and
then left loose or compressed in the same way as Naturally Fermented Puerh teas.
The teas are then stored in damp, cool conditions to age. Naturally Fermented Puerh teas are left for at
least 15 and up to 50 years; Artificially Fermented Puerh teas are aged for only a few weeks or months.
When ready, each cake of Puerh tea is wrapped in tissue paper or dried bamboo leaves.
The reason for manufacturing Puerh teas by artificial fermentation is to allow the tea producers to make
more Puerh in a shorter time. 50 years is a long time to wait for a good Puerh so the more modern
artificial method was developed to meet a growing demand for these teas.
Puerh tea is named after Puerh city in Yunnan province which was once the main trading centre
for teas made in the area.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/tea/html/types.shtml
http://www.enjoyengland.com/ideas/food-and-drink/drink/tea-in-england/tea-drinking-
customs.aspx