Yamaha TTR250 Dual Sport Kit Installation Manual

185 Bosstick Blvd. San Marcos California 92069 Phone 760.560.2252 Fax 760.560.0383 info@bajadesigns.com Page 1 of 10

Warranty:

Baja Designs manufactures its own products as well as resells products manufactured by others. Baja Designs makes no express or implied warranties on products not manufactured by Baja Designs including without limitation any warranties or merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. We will however, pass on all warranties made by the manufacturer, who has sole responsibility for performing such warranties. Baja Designs will repair or replace any item manufactured by us that we judge to be defective in workmanship or material within 30 days of shipment. We will not be responsible for any indirect or consequential damages in connection with defective merchandise. Products used in racing, competition or damaged by crash, abuse, or misuse are not warrantable.

Indemnification: Buyer hereby acknowledges motorcycle riding is a dangerous sport and that the products and/or supplies purchased from Baja Designs are used in an inherently dangerous activity that may endanger life and limb; and in no event shall the seller, or seller's heirs and assigns, be held liable for consequential damages, nor shall seller's liability on any claim for damages arising out of or connected with the sale, delivery, or use of purchased products and/or supplies exceed the purchase price of the products and/or supplies. Dual Sport Kit: Installation of a Baja Designs Dual Sport kit by itself does not make an off-road motorcycle street legal. Each state has different equipment requirements for street legal motorcycles, including but not limited to such items as DOT approved tires, left and right side mirrors, speedometers, quiet exhaust, chain guards, and side reflectors. Contact your states department of motor vehicles or highway patrol for a comprehensive list of equipment that is required for street motorcycles before riding your bike on the street. Street Riding: Riding a motorcycle on the street is very different than off road riding and requires special skills not learned off-road. Most states require an additional license beyond an automobile drivers license to operate a motorcycle on the street. Make sure to have the proper licensing and skills before riding your bike on the street. Baja Designs recommends contacting the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (800 446-9227) for a rider course near you.

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1. Remove the seat, fuel tank, & side panels. 2. Unplug and remove the stock headlight. 3. Unplug and remove the stock taillight (base, lens, & wiring) from the fender. Photo 1 shows the connections to unplug.

Photo 1
4. Unplug and remove the headlight on/off switch. It terminates with a plastic connector that unplugs from the stock wiring harness under the fuel tank. See Photo 2.

Photo 2
5. Clip the zip tie holding the headlight leads to the fork tube, coil it up and secure it to the frame in front of the voltage regulator as shown in Photos 3 and 4. Remove bracket shown in Photo 3.

Photo 4

Remove this bracket

Headlight Leads Photo 3

Coil up wires and secure with a zip tie

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6. Rear Turn Signal Installation: Drill a 3/8 hole in each side of the rear fender and mount the rear signals as shown in Photos 5 & 6. Also drill 3/16 zip-tie holes as shown and zip-tie the fender to the sub-frame. This will level out the turn signals and provide stability. Route the wires forward to along the sub-frame to the area on top of the airbox.

Drill 3/16 hole and zip-tie

Photo 5

Turn Signal Drill 3/16 hole and zip-tie

Photo 6

7. Taillight Installation: Attach the provided taillight to the rear fender using the two 4x16 Phillips head bolts and the 6x16 hex head bolt. The new taillight will cover the indentation left in the fender where the stock taillight was removed. Drill the upper holes 3/16 diameter as shown in Photo 7. Drill the lower diameter where the license plate mount attaches. Route the wires through the hole in the fender and along the sub-frame to the area on top of the airbox.

Drill two places, 3/16 diameter.

Photo 7

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8. Brake Light Switch Installation: The TTR250 uses a hydraulic brake switch. This requires replacing the rear master cylinder banjo bolt with a specially made switch. Installing the switch requires bleeding the rear brake. If you do not feel competent bleeding your rear brake, please refer this job to a qualified mechanic, as failure to do it correctly will make the brake inoperable. Locate the brake fluid reservoir and unbolt it from its stock location (Photo 8.) Temporarily bring the reservoir over to the right side of the bike to aid filling during bleeding. Loosen and remove the banjo bolt securing the rear brake line to the master cylinder and replace with the hydraulic switch. Make sure to install the copper crush washers from the stock bolt under the switch. Torque the switch assembly to 25 lbf-ft. Well plug in the wires in a later step. Bleeding the Brakes: (Do not begin this process unless you have a fresh can of brake fluid) Remove the lid to the brake fluid reservoir. Put the box end of 8mm wrench over the brake bleed nipple and install the bleed hose (supplied) tightly over the nipple. Position the loop on the hose above the nipple as shown in Photo 10 with the other end of the hose in a container to catch the fluid. Crack the bleed nipple open about 1/8 to a quarter turn keeping the loop in the hose vertical. Slowly depress the brake pedal to fill the hose with fluid. Pump slowly until you have brake fluid extending up into the loop, then you can pump the pedal fairly aggressively to drive air out of the system - The fluid above the bleed nipple will prevent air from re-entering the system. DO NOT LET THE RESERVOIR GO DRY - ADD FLUID AS NEEDED. Pump the pedal until there is no more bubbles, then close the nipple with the wrench. Double check that the pedal is firm and the brake works properly. Left Side of Bike

Photo 8

Brake Fluid Reservoir

Hydraulic Brake Switch

Copper Crush Washer

Photo 9

Photo 10

Keep loop above bleed nipple

8 mm Wrench

Bleed Nipple Container

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9. Switch Panel Installation: Note that the kill feature on the switch panel will not be utilized for this installation. The black/white & blue/white wires from the switch panel will remain unplugged. They are not hot leads. Install the switch panel assembly on the left handlebar next to the grip as shown in Photo 11. The switch panel has two screws that attach the two halves. Do not over tighten these screws as too much force can strip out the body of the switch. Route the wires along the bottom of the handlebar (so they cant get crushed by tie-downs) and over the front of the upper triple-clamp.

Photo 11

10. Middle Wiring Harness Installation: Locate the black cable with white plastic multi-pin connectors at both ends provided with the kit. Position one of the multipin connectors (doesnt matter which both ends of the middle harness are identical) so it sits just to the left of the steering head near the black connector from the switch panel assembly. With the handlebars turned fully to the right, route the middle harness back along the left side of the frame following the stock wiring harness. The connector at the end of the middle wiring harness should end up at the area on top of the airbox. 11. Rear Wiring Harness Installation and Connections: Locate the rear wiring harness provided with the kit. It has a white plastic 6-pin connector with several sheathed power leads extending from it. Attach the 6-pin connector from the rear harness to its corresponding mate from the middle harness. Attach the ring terminal from the fused lead to the positive side of the battery. Attach the remaining black un-fused ring terminal to the negative side of the battery. Attach the white plastic 3-pin connector from the rear wiring harness to its corresponding mate from the taillight. Attach the green & black wire pair to the two wires from the right rear turn signal. Polarity is unimportant. Attach the brown & black wire pair to the two wires from the left rear turn signal. Polarity is unimportant. Route the red & blue wire pair down to the brake light switch and attach the two wires. Polarity is unimportant. The rear wiring is now completed. Secure your wiring with zip-ties.

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12. Front Wiring Connections & Headlight Installation: The 3-position power switch on the switch panel should be in its lowest off position when making the following connections. Attach the black plastic multi-pin connector from the headlight to its corresponding mate from the switch panel assembly. Attach the white plastic multi-pin connector from the headlight to its corresponding mate from the rear wiring harness (gray cable.) Attach the headlight to the fork tubes. Turn the steering from side to side to verify that the wiring does not bind or get caught in the steering stops. The following connections have been pre-made prior to shipping: Turn Signals: The green and black wires attach to the right turn signal. The brown and black wires attach to the left turn signal. Horn: The red/purple & pink wires attach to the horn. Flasher: The red/green and orange wires attach to the terminals on the flasher labeled X & L respectively. NOTE: Some flashers have a P instead of an X. Headlight and Running Light: The plastic H4 headlight connector attaches to the back of the headlight bulb. The brown and green leads from this connector attach to the brown and green leads from the headlamp running light. The wiring installation is now completed!! Proceed to the next section to test your work.

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System Checkout: The turn signal switch in this kit controls both the lighting and ignition functions in one compact package. Using the lighting selector, push the switch to the second P position. The taillight should come on and the brakelight, turn signals and horn should be operational. The third H switch position allows the high/low button to function. If everything is working properly congratulate yourself on a job well done. If not, don't worry, it's not rocket science and we should be able to figure it out. All the components were checked for operation prior to being shipped to you so something is probably not connected correctly. See the trouble-shooting list in a later section.

Engine kill button Headlight on position High beam indicator light

Parking light position

Off position Main power switch Horn button

Turn signal switch

Wrapping It Up: It is important that all the wires be properly routed and secured. Make sure the wires do not pass over any sharp edges, are pulled overly tight, or can be crushed by the seat, tank, fender, etc. Use all the zip ties provided to securely fasten the wires. Any unwanted movement or chafing means early failure. Make sure all the silicone rubber connector boots and the connectors are pushed firmly together and no bare metal is exposed. Put on the seat, tank, and side panels, go down to your local DMV, and then go roost!

TROUBLESHOOTING Page 8 of 10

Nothing Happens When You push the lighting selector to the first position. Fuse is blown. Check for bare wire or terminal shorting against the frame or another wire. Multi-pin connector not properly connected. Battery is dead. Measure voltage with voltmeter, or connect a 12 volt light across it. The Turn Signals Won't Come On, or Won't Flash The wires on the flasher are connected backward. The red wire goes to the terminal labeled "X". Check turn signal wire connections. Make sure you have connected the correct wires to the turn signals. Check instructions. Battery voltage is low. If the battery voltage is low, the turn signals won't flash, or will flash very slowly. Running the bike will cure this as well as charge the battery. The Brake Light Won't Come On . The rear brake system is not properly bled. Maybe it's on already. Brake and tail connections are reversed. The brake light is already on so their is no increase in light intensity when you activate the brake. Check the yellow and blue taillight connections. Short the two leads together at the brake switch. If the brakelight comes on, either the brake switch is defective, or the brake system is not properly bled. Everything Works Except the Headlight Make sure the three prong connector is correctly plugged in and that the wires leading to it are plugged into the harness. Does the high beam indicator come on when the bike is running and high beam selected? If so, the bulb is burned out or defective. If you still need assistance, call Baja Designs at 760.560.2252 Maintenance: Occasionally examine the wires in your lighting system to make sure they are not chaffing or binding so that they don't cause you a problem when you're out on the trail or on the road. A well-routed, properly secured wiring system is key to getting long life and trouble free performance from your conversion kit. The light bulbs take a beating on a dirt bike, especially the rear taillights. The continuous vibration and impact can cause the bulb contact to prematurely oxidize, causing the bulb to fail. Occasionally remove the bulbs (taillight and turn signals) and scrape the soft contact at the base of the bulb and clean its mating contact in the lamp assembly.

Baja Designs 185 Bosstick Blvd. Page 9 of 10

San Marcos, CA 92069

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