Professional Documents
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10th Edition
Advancing the State-of-the-Art in Art & Industry
TM
WELCOME!
Welcome to the 10th Edition of Polytek Development Corp.s MOLD MAKING & CASTING MANUAL & CATALOG. We wrote this manual to help you use the many products and materials Polytek offers to their maximum benefit. Mold making and casting are not easy. In fact, making molds and castings is a full-time career for many skilled craftsmen. An important part of a master mold maker's expertise is developing a feel for the way each different molding and casting material behaves. Developing this feel for each material and learning to anticipate and avoid common problems takes a great deal of practice with a variety of materials. Consequently, it is difficult for anyone to try a new technique or use a new material the first time and achieve perfect results. Thus, the old adage, "Practice makes perfect." Polytek has formulated a range of materials to help you achieve your molding and casting objectives, and we are constantly working to invent new products to make your job easier. As good as any material may be, however, the skill of the user is equally important in achieving the objective. When you use a material for the first time, we ask that you start small and simple to get a feel for the material before going on to larger projects. Our goal is to continue to produce dependable, quality materials and present their basic methods of use. The rest is up to you. We depend on your success and want to help whenever possible. Thank you for your patronage. Sincerely, Bob LeCompte Chairman
CUSTOMER SERVICE
When you call Polytek, you can speak to a member of our customer service team (Joe, Stan, Wendy, Dave, Laurie, Jill, Mary, Larry and Bill). They all have hands-on experience and the knowledge and ability to satisfy your needs quickly. Whether youre new to mold making and need help getting started or an expert mold maker looking for a fresh perspective, we welcome your questions. We know that our continued success is based on the quality of our products and service and the word of mouth of satisfied customers.
POLYTEKS LOCATION
Our state-of-the-art facility is located at 55 Hilton Street, Easton, PA -- just off I-78, Exit 75. You can see us from the highway! Stop in! We use our 5,000-ft2 mezzanine for product demonstrations, trials, and seminars. Take time to enjoy nearby historic Delaware River inns and attractions. Were only 90 minutes to New York City and Philadelphia.
(610)559-8620 (800)858-5990
BY PHONE (800) 858-5990 (610) 559-8620 Monday to Friday 8:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. BY MAIL Polytek 55 Hilton St. Easton, PA 18042 ONLINE sales@polytek.com www.polytek.com Secure credit card transactions BY FAX (610) 559-8626 24 hours a day
Specialty Molding/Casting Materials . . . . .57 Latex Rubber Products Poly Wax 15 Poly Skin-Wax Hydrogel N Mold Compound
DISCLAIMER: The information in this catalog and otherwise provided by Polytek is considered accurate. However, no warranty is expressed or implied regarding the accuracy of the data, the results to be obtained by the use thereof, or that any such use will not infringe any patent. Before using, the user shall determine the suitability of the product for the intended use and user assumes all risk and liability whatsoever in connection therewith. 2007 by Polytek Development Corp. All rights reserved. This manual may not be copied, in whole or in part, without written consent of Polytek Development Corp.
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Accessories 1
Accessories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61 Pol-Ease Releases PolyFiber, Bronze and Other Fillers Safety Equipment Mixers, Scales, Books, DVDs & More
Speciality Materials
Casting Plastics
CONTACT INFORMATION
Casting Plastics/Resins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 EasyFlo & Poly 15 Series Plastics Poly-Optic 14 Series Clear Casting Resins PolyFoam, LiteCast, Plasti-Flex & Polygels Epoxy Resins & Curatives
Use Polytek products creatively and enthusiastically for a variety of projects -- from creating fine art to producing functional pieces for home and industry. Mold making and casting are truly CREATIVITY WITH C HEMISTRY . The use of Polytek materials is limited only by the imagination -- may yours be limitless.
Silicone RTV Mold Rubbers . . . . . . . . . . . .40 TinSil 70 Series Silicone Rubbers PlatSil 71 Series Silicone Rubbers PlatSil 73 Series Silicone Rubbers PlatSil Gel 10 Silicone Rubber
The remarkable, life-size Carrara marble sculpture by E. Zocchi of a young, enthusiastic Michelangelo carving a gargoyle depicts four of our favorite things ... art ... creativity ... enthusiasm ... and gargoyles!
1 2 3 4 5 6
Polyurethane RTV Mold Rubbers . . . . . . .32 Poly 74, Poly 75 & Poly 77 Series Rubbers Polygel Brushable/Sprayable Rubbers Poly 81-Series Rubbers Poly-Fast 72-40 & Poly GlassRub Rubbers
Mold Making Methods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Mold Making & Casting Materials Types of Flexible Molds & Castings Mold Making & Casting Procedures Applications
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Mold Making Methods
GETTING STARTED
When making a flexible mold of an object in order to cast reproductions, you are faced with many choices of mold making and casting materials and methods -- it can be bewildering at first glance. In order to succeed, you must consider many factors before you start a project. Here are a few things to think about: What is the model made of? Does the shape of the model present mold making or demolding challenges? What will the casting be made of? How many castings do you envision making? How much money do you plan to spend? How much time do you have to complete the project? Think ahead. You need to plan your project from start to finish before you begin. Read the Methods sections entirely so that you understand all of the factors that need to be considered during the planning stage of your project.
Each mold making and casting compound is unique and may require special handling that differs from similar products. Spend time learning the special requirements of every new product and making a small test mix before using the product on a larger scale to avoid loss of valuable time and materials. Mold making and casting materials must be selected concurrently. This is because some casting resins work well only in certain mold materials (and vice versa). If you have a specific casting material in mind, then you select a mold material that works well with that casting material. Most often you can find mold and casting materials that work well together and satisfy all of of your project requirements. The illustration below helps to demonstrate this point.
Casting
Wax Concrete Plaster Epoxy
Mold Material
All (except Skin-Wax) Polyurethane All (usually polyurethane) Polyurethane or silicone Silicone or polyurethane Silicone or polyurethane Silicone or polyurethane Silicone or polyurethane
Selecting proper mold making and casting materials for the job at hand is the 1st step to success!
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Mold Making Methods 3
One-part mold materials usually present more disadvantages than two-part materials.
Body molds Pour Single-use molds Layup Body molds Brush-on Single-use molds Dip
Low strength Limited use Must melt prior to use Not dimensionally stable Takes days or weeks to
make mold
High strength
No release agent
needed High strength Excellent chemical resistance
All materials
(especially resins and lowtemperature melting metals)
No release agent
needed No shrink on cure Good cured storage life High strength Excellent chemical resistance
All material
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Mold Making Methods
Model Composition
A models composition or surface coating may restrict you to certain mold making materials. Certain mold materials do not cure properly over some model materials (i.e., platinum-cured silicones do not cure on sulfur-containing clay models). Sometimes, if the models composition presents a problem, it can be overcome by carefully sealing the model (see p. 11). Thoroughly review product technical bulletins to be sure that there are no compatibility issues between your model and the mold material youve selected. If your model is delicate or valuable, it is best to try the selected mold material on a small hidden area before you jump into mold making. Fragile models can be damaged in the mold making process. The resulting mold, however, can be used to make a reproduction out of a more durable material. [Note: If the model is a human body, there are obvious safety issues. Consider Hydrogel Mold Compound or Poly Skin Wax (see pp. 59-60).]
When using mold making or casting materials you are usually filling a given space. The lower the cost per cubic inch of material, the lower the cost of filling the space. Specific Volume, expressed in cubic inches per pound (in3/lb), is the key to calculating the real cost of a mold making and casting material. Some rubbers and plastics that have a low price per pound contain dense fillers such as powdered marble or silica. These fillers typically reduce the price per pound, but raise the price per cubic inch. Simple calculations reveal the real cost of your material in terms of cents per cubic inch. Poly 74 Series Rubbers (see p. 34) are low density and contain no heavy fillers. They yield 27.5 in3/lb. Poly-Fast 7240, a dense rubber, contains fillers and yields only 20 in3/lb -nearly 1/3 less rubber volume per pound! For example: An 80-lb trial unit of Poly 74-30 costs $336 or $4.20/lb ($336/80 lb). Dividing $4.20/lb by 27.5 in3/lb yields a cost of $0.15 per in3. A 49.5-lb trial unit of Poly-Fast 72-40 costs $194 or $3.92/lb ($194/49.5 lb). Dividing $3.92/lb by 20 in3/lb yields a cost of $0.20 per in3. Poly 74-30 = $0.15 per in3 Poly-Fast 72-40 = $0.20 per in3 At first glance it appears that Poly 74-30 is the more expensive product; however, to fill a given space, using Poly 74-30 actually costs nearly 25% less than higher density Poly-Fast 72-40 rubber. The photo below shows the dramatic density difference between these rubbers.
Cost per cubic inch is your real cost -price per pound can be misleading.
Cost
Both the volume of material needed and the price per unit volume must be considered in calculating project cost. The quantity of mold making material needed is dictated largely by the type of mold you choose to make -- a large model may mandate a brush-on mold since any other type of mold would require too much material. The quantity of material needed can be calculated by estimating the volume of mold making material needed (in cubic inches) and dividing by the specific volume (cubic inches per pound) of the material (see box to the right). To determine project costs more accurately, one also needs to consider the time it takes to make the mold (see below).
Time Considerations
Timing plays an important role in the selection of a mold making material. With some materials a mold can be completed in an afternoon (i.e., accelerated silicone and polyurethane mold rubbers), while with others, it can take weeks (i.e., latex rubber). To learn more about demold times, read the technical bulletins for individual products. Remember, the fastest material or method may not be the least expensive. Consider how long you intend to use and keep the mold. Some materials are only suitable for one casting (i.e., Hydrogel), while others will hold up for hundreds of castings (silicones and most polyurethanes). Also, consider library life: how long you expect the mold to remain useful after sitting on a shelf. Most properly cured rubber molds are useable for many years, but some degrade within 2 to 4 years (i.e., Poly 72-40 and TinSil rubbers). For molds with long library life, use polyurethane rubbers (except Poly 72-40) or PlatSil silicone rubbers. 4
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Mold Making Methods 5
Mold Material
Skin-Wax
Casting Material
Low-exotherm materials -polyurethane and silicone rubbers and select resins Materials that are not moisture sensitive -- wax, plaster, silicones and select resins Concrete, plaster and select resins Most casting materials are acceptable, except metals All casting materials are acceptable
Hydrogel
Latex Polyurethane
Silicone
Mold Composition
A molds composition may restrict you to certain casting materials. In a few cases, casting materials may rapidly degrade or even destroy the mold (i.e., exothermic epoxy resins will melt a wax mold). Carefully review product technical bulletins to be sure that there are no compatibility issues between your mold and the casting material. Molds made from Polytek products are non-porous and casting materials used in the molds should "cure" or set chemically. In most cases, air drying materials are not suitable since the rubber prevents them from drying except from the back. Water clay, paper-mache, and latex are often not suitable casting materials. The illustration above provides a general guideline regarding suitability of casting materials depending on mold composition. Disadvantages
Fragile High shrinkage Requires high heat to use Indoors only Brittle Heavy Rough surface Slow set Higher cost Expensive Difficult to use Strong odor Flammable Strong odor Health hazards Limited mass Moisture sensitive
Casting Material
Wax
Advantages
Easy demold
End Uses
Foundries Candles Resculpting Prototypes Parts Most indoor objects Moulding Statuary (indoor & outdoor) Architectural ornaments Many diverse uses (painting may be needed for outdoor use)
Vinyl Gypsum Plaster Concrete/ Specialty Concrete Design Cast and Forton MG Acrylic Resin
One-part liquid Fast Yields good quality Acceptable for outdoor use
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Mold Making Methods
Cost
Both the quantity of material needed and the price per cubic inch must be considered in calculating project cost. The quantity/weight of casting material needed is dictated by the volume of material needed (in cubic inches) divided by the specific volume (cubic inches per pound) of the casting material. Here is a general idea about the relative costs of casting materials.
To reduce costs and cast larger masses, ADD FILLERS to polyurethanes & epoxies.
Many fillers are suitable to add to liquid plastics to reduce costs and help dissipate exotherm, which can cause shrinkage and limit the size of the mass that can be cast at once. Heavy fillers absorb more exothermic heat, but result in a heavy casting. Lightweight fillers can make the casting lighter than wood so it will float and carve easily. Some fillers such as wood powder and nut shell flours may contain moisture and cause foaming of the plastic or other problems. Dry fillers that stir easily into the mixed resin are best. The cost per cubic inch of resin displaced is the real cost of these fillers. For example, some typical costs per cubic inch follow: Filler Dry Sand Bronze Powder Ground Limestone Extendospheres CG Q-Cel 2116 or 3M C/15 $/lb $0.05 5.00 0.15 0.50 6.00 Density (g/cc) 2.75 8.85 2.70 0.70 0.10 $/in3 0.005 1.590 0.015 0.013 0.022
COST
Unfilled polyurethanes and epoxies Filled resins, speciality concretes (i.e., Forton MG) Concrete, plaster, wax, filled polyester
Obviously, to determine true project cost one needs to consider the time it takes to make the casting (see below).
Time Considerations
Timing plays an important role in the selection of casting material. With some materials, a finished casting can be made in minutes (i.e., EasyFlo 60 Plastic); while with others, it can take days (i.e., concrete). The fastest material or method often is not the least expensive.
TIME
Adding an equal volume of low cost filler to a Poly Plastic can cut the cost of the casting nearly in half! For example, one cubic inch of resin at $0.14 plus an equal volume of filler at $0.015 yields approximately two cubic inches costing $0.155 or about $0.07 per cubic inch for the mix.
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Mold Making Methods
BLOCK MOLDS
Block molds are typically made by placing the model into a containment area (i.e., mold box) and pouring liquid rubber over the model. After curing, the rubber is removed from the model and the result is a single-piece, poured block mold. This is the simplest type of mold. Single-piece, poured block molds are best for models with a relatively flat base or back and no sharp undercuts that prevent the rubber from demolding from the model. This type of mold would be used for reproduction of a wall plaque. For a model with undercuts (i.e., the chin of a cherubs face) a softer rubber can be used or the mold may need to be cut to allow for removal of the model and castings: this is referred to as a split block mold. In some cases, the block mold may need to be cut into or poured in several pieces to allow for removal of the model and then carefully reassembled prior to casting: this is referred to as a multi-piece block mold. Sometimes, multi-piece block molds are made in sections, by pouring on one surface at a time, allowing to cure, then pouring on the adjoining surface against the previous pour. This technique is necessary when the model has details on all sides (i.e., does not have a flat base or back). Poured molds are sometimes free standing if the rubber is thick enough to hold its shape, but often a box or rigid shell is used with the mold to maintain its shape. Generally, the box or shell (mother mold) must be separate from the rubber mold in order to allow the mold to flex for removal of the model or casting.
Poured mold materials generally pick up detail with fewer entrapped air bubbles than materials that are applied by brush or spray, except where bubbles on the surface of the rising liquid are trapped under a ledge such as under the chin of a head model. Tilting the mold box while pouring is a useful technique for preventing air entrapment. If this does not help, a brush-on mold, or pouring one section at a time may be advised. For diagrams depicting the procedures to make a single-piece poured block mold, a split single-piece poured block mold, and a multi-piece poured block mold, see pp. 17-18. A note on the terminology: Since a block mold is often made in box shape, it is sometimes called a box mold. However, this type of mold can be made in any appropriate containment area (i.e., a cylinder such as a piece of PVC pipe). Also, block molds are sometimes referred to as poured molds since this is the method used to make them.
Mold Complexity
Multi-Piece Poured Blanket Mold Poured Blanket Mold Complexity Sprayed Blanket Mold Brushed Blanket Mold Multi-Piece Block Mold Single-Piece Block Mold Contributing Factors: Size Location Shape Time Materials
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Mold Making Methods
BLANKET MOLDS
As the name implies, blanket molds resemble a thin blanket carefully placed around the model. Blanket molds are made by either brushing or spraying the flexible mold material onto the model or pouring the mold material into a pre-constructed shell around the model. With a few mold materials (i.e, latex, wax), it is possible to make a blanket mold by dipping the model into the liquid material. Blanket molds are generally - to -inch thick. To hold a blanket mold in its proper shape after the cured rubber is removed from the model and during the casting process, a rigid or firm mold shell (mother mold) is required. Blanket molds are often mandated by the size and/or location of the model. Since blanket molds consume far less rubber than a conventional block mold, they are preferred for large or irregularly shaped models. Typically mold rubber is sprayed or brushed on large models. Often, blanket molds are the only choice for large, immovable models (i.e., large gargoyle high on a building facade). With some models, blanket molds can be made in one piece and lifted or peeled off the model and subsequent castings like a sock; this is sometimes called a glove mold. A bas relief or a figure with a pyramid shape (the bottom wider than the top) lend themselves to one-piece molds. Molds that are to be turned back on themselves and peeled off must be kept thin, usually less than 1/8-inch thick, to minimize stress and possible tearing of the rubber. As the mold is peeled off, it may need to be lubricated with silicone release or soapy water on the outside surface to allow it to slide easily against itself. For many types of models, the blanket mold must have a split down one side to allow for easy removal of the model and to reduce the chance of tearing the mold. The rubber at the end of the seam may be reinforced with fabric at the top where a tear may be likely to develop in the mold. For complex models, blanket molds can be made in two or more pieces. Shims or flanges are used to create seams or parting lines where required on blanket molds and their shells. A split blanket mold can be made by affixing a thin shim of aluminum flashing, cardboard or stiff plastic film to the model projecting several inches, applying release, and brushing/spraying the rubber up against the shim. The shim should have keys or indentations to allow the rubber flanges of each mold section to
One-piece, Polygel brushed blanket mold.
lock together to maintain position with respect to one another and to the shell. With the development of self-thickening and thixotropic (see definition below) mold materials, making brush-on and sprayed blanket molds has become routine. Not only do brush-on and spray molds use less rubber, but they are generally faster to make than poured blanket molds and offer the moldmaker visual control of rubber placement. In the past, blanket molds were often made by dipping the model into or brushing on latex. Since each layer of latex must dry overnight before the next layer can be applied, building up an adequate thickness of latex for a useable mold can take weeks. Trying to brush-on a pourable liquid without thickening usually produces less than satisfactory results since the the liquid flows off vertical surfaces. In order to make molds faster, moldmakers add fillers to pourable mold rubbers in order to thicken the uncured mix to a consistency that can be applied by brush. For example, Poly 74-30 Liquid Mold Rubber can be mixed with fumed silica (i.e, Cab-O-Sil) to make brush-on blanket molds (see photograph on p. 21). Many customers use this method because it allows them to thicken the rubber to the exact consistency that is desired and is the most economical method of making brush-on molds. For more information regarding thickening of liquid mold rubbers, refer to the product descriptions (see pp. 34-45) or call Polytek Customer Service. In 1992, Polytek received a patent for the Polygel technology, which enables the mixed Parts A and B liquids to immediately react to form a gel with a consistency perfect for brush-on application. Polygel 35, 40 and 50 Liquid Mold Rubbers are ideal for brushing on a properly prepared model right after Parts A and B are mixed. In addition, certain Polygel products have been specially formulated for spray application (Polygel Spray 35, Polygel Spray 50 and Quick Spray 50). See pp. 36-37 for information on Polygel products. Whether using liquid rubber thickened with Cab-O-Sil or the advanced Polygel products, a most important characteristic of the mixed mold material for brush-on or spray application is thixotropy (see box). To make a brush-on or spray-on blanket mold, the rubber must be thick enough to not sag after
THIXOTROPY:
The key to successful brush-on molds. Thix.ot.ro.py \thik-`so-tr -pe\ n [fr. Gk thixis act of touching]: the property of various gels becoming more fluid when disturbed (as by mixing) -- thixotropic adj
(Websters Ninth New Collegiate Dictionary)
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Mold Making Methods
Both brush-on and spray blanket molds are most easily made with Polygel Liquid Mold Rubbers.
application on the model, but also must be more fluid when it is mixed or moved around the model surface with a brush. Polygel products are thixotropic: they are thick enough to resist sagging when applied to a vertical surface, but are fluid when mixed and moved around the model surface. Basically, the more energy you put into a thixotropic material, the lower the viscosity -- the faster you stir it the more fluid it seems. A good liquid rubber for brush-on molds must become thixotropic shortly after Parts A and B are mixed together -- thats Polygel. For diagrams depicting the procedures to make a single-piece blanket mold, a split single-piece blanket mold, and a multipiece blanket mold, see pp. 18-23.
In the case of a poured blanket mold, the mother mold is typically made before the rubber mold is made. After the mother mold Polygel rubber mold and resin is cured, it is positioned over shell made of Poly 15-6 Liquid the model and the liquid Plastic thickened with Poly Fiber. mold rubber is poured into the void between the mother mold and model to make the blanket mold. For more on this technique, see pp. 22-23. A mother mold can last indefinitely and can help prolong the life of a mold since a rubber mold stored in its shell can maintain exact dimensions. The mold in its shell will last many years if it is stored in a cool, dry area out of sunlight. Still, when the rubber fails (as all flexible molds eventually do) the shell is simply repositioned over the model and a new mold is poured, ready for use the next day.
These three photos illustrate the construction of a poured blanket mold. First, the model, a gargoyle face, is covered with clay. Next, a rigid, plastic mold shell (i.e., Poly 1512X, see p. 49) is constructed over the clay blanket. After the plastic cures, it is removed and the clay is removed from the model. Then the plastic shell is repositioned over the model and liquid rubber (i.e., PlatSil 71-11, see p. 43) is poured through an opening in the shell and covers the model. Once the rubber cures, the model is removed and the mold is ready to use. Cast away!
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Mold Making Methods
TYPES OF CASTINGS
There are numerous types of castings and casting methods. Castings vary by the type of material that they are made of (see p. 2), and by the method employed to make them. The table below summarizes the most common casting methods along with the advantages and disadvantages inherent in each technique and the products for which one might use each method. The photo to the right shows numerous castings made from various Polytek casting plastics.
Casting Method
Solid Pour
Material is poured into the mold resulting in a solid casting.
Advantages
Fast
Disadvantages
Heavy Possible high cost
End Uses
Small objects Industrial tools
Slush Cast
Material is manually rotated in the mold creating a thin layer resulting in a lightweight hollow casting. Lightweight Less material used Time consuming Art objects Bonded bronze
Rotational Cast
A closed mold is rotated by machine as a small amount of material coats the surface and sets, resulting in a hollow, lightweight casting. Fast Easy Lightweight Six-sided parts Need a machine Larger statuary Hollow parts
Injection
Liquid is forced into the mold under pressure. Quality parts Requires setup time Often need a machine Manufactured parts
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Mold Making Methods 11
If you dont follow directions ... there is a lot that can go wrong ...
SAFETY FIRST!
Before you even open your containers of mold making or casting materials, understand the hazards of the materials that youll be working with.
Read material safety data sheets (MSDSs) and product labels - MSDSs are sent with every Polytek
product and contain very important safety information. Also, Polytek product labels have hazard warnings and precautionary statements. Read the MSDS and labels carefully so that you can use Polytek products safely. If you do not receive MSDSs with your shipment, call Polytek Customer Service and they will promptly get them to you.
Low Temperatures or Demolding Too Soon - Deformed parts can result. Fluctuating
temperatures during curing can cause bubbles and dimensional changes.
Material Hardens Before Its In Place Avoid delays once material is mixed. Watch a clock!
Use personal protective equipment (PPE) and engineering controls - Follow recommendations on
product MSDSs for use of PPE such as gloves, dust masks, safety glasses or goggles, aprons, and, in limited cases, airpurifying respirators with organic vapor cartridges. Use products in areas with adequate ventilation such as a large open room with air circulation.
READ DIRECTIONS
All too often, projects are spoiled because, in enthusiasm for completing a project, important directions are not followed. Before starting your project, read product technical bulletins and label directions thoroughly. Call Polytek Customer Service if you have any questions.
MODEL PREPARATION
Porous models, such as wood, plaster, stone, pottery or masonry, must be sealed, then coated with a release agent such as Pol-Ease 2300 Release Agent or PolyCoat.
Sealing prevents rubber or resin from penetrating pores in the model surface. Several coats of paste wax, allowed to dry and polished or melted paraffin, petroleum jelly, lacquer, shellac,
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Mold Making Methods
Cure time is often longer than demold time, sometimes even though a product feels cured and can be demolded, curing may continue for up to a week. Demold time is the soonest a cured product can be removed from the mold if it has been at recommended temperature. Demolding castings as soon as possible helps to extend mold life. Thin castings may require more time in the mold before demolding. Density is the weight of material that fills a given space. Water has a density of 1.0 g/cc and a pound of water takes up 27.5 cubic inches. Thus a pound of material with a density of 2 g/cc will only fill half the space or 13.75 cubic inches. When buying mold rubber or casting resin you must consider the price per volume, as the price per pound can be misleading. (See box on Cost per cubic inch, p. 4.) Elongation, reported in percent, is the length the material stretches before breaking. Hardness is measured with a Durometer. It pushes a needlelike probe into the rubber as it is pressed against it. The farther the needle penetrates into the sample the lower the reading. The Shore A scale is used for rubbers and the Shore D scale is used for plastics. Both scales go from 0 to 100. A rubber with a Shore A hardness of 0 is like warm chewing gum. Shore A10 to 20 is about as soft as any mold rubbers can be. Shore A50 rubber is like a car tire. Above A80, rubbers feel more like a plastic and may measure on the low end of the Shore D scale. Shore D90 is about as hard as plastics get. Pour time, working time, pot life or gel time give you an idea how much time youll have to work with a material from the time mixing begins until it gels. Most materials should be in place well before the end of this time to allow good flow into detail and for air bubbles to rise and break. Rheology describes how a liquid flows. A liquid is Newtonian if it flows and levels, even if very slowly. Pourable mold rubbers should be Newtonian. Brush-on mold rubbers may be thixotropic, that is they flow when brushed/troweled, but when undisturbed they stay where they are placed (see box on p. 8). Shrinkage is a reduction in size, which occurs with some plastics during cure or some rubbers after prolonged use. Casting materials draw oily materials out of the rubber causing it to shrink. Products that develop heat during cure shrink as they cool. The degree of shrinkage increases with the temperature increase during cure. Some plastics get warmer in the center than against the cool mold surface and tend to cause the still liquid resin against the mold to sink. (See box on Exotherm, p. 6.) Polytek products that stay cool during cure do not shrink while curing. Tear strength is reported as the force needed to tear a split one-inch long in a piece of material. Higher elongation rubbers generally have a higher perceived tear strength. Tensile strength is the force required to break a piece of material when pulled. It is reported in pounds required to break a one-inch square specimen of material. Viscosity, reported in centipoise (cP), describes if a liquid is thick or thin. Water is low viscosity (1 cP), while pancake syrup is higher (1000 cP), and honey is even higher (10,000 cP). Temperature affects viscosity -- the lower the temperature, the higher the viscosity. For best flow into detail, Polytek materials should be at least room temperature.
Pol-Ease 2300 Release Agent must be applied to nearly every surface before pouring or applying liquid rubber (except
silicones) or resin. It should be sprayed evenly and then gently brushed out with a dry brush to pick up any excess and to spread the release over any spots missed by the spray. The brush should be wiped with a paper towel periodically to prevent too heavy a coating being left on the surface. Too much release can cause pinhole defects in the surface of the liquid material poured against it. The coating of release should be allowed to dry for about 15 minutes prior to pouring. Silicone-based release agents like Pol-Ease 2300 may interfere with the cure of silicone mold materials. When pouring silicones, use Pol-Ease 2350 on surfaces that the liquid silicone will contact. Consider PolyCoat as a semi-permanent, dry sealer and release when using polyurethane rubbers.
If you have any question about the compatibility between the rubber and the prepared model surface, perform a test cure on an identical surface to determine that
complete curing and good release are obtained. Some materials such as sulfur-containing modeling clays and wood knots, inhibit curing of some rubbers and plastics.
Securely fasten and seal side boards or shells to the base to prevent leakage. Seal and apply release on all side
boards and shell interiors. Petroleum jelly is excellent for most non-critical surfaces like these, unless the material gets warm enough during cure to melt the petroleum jelly. Pol-Ease 2300 Release Agent is more heat resistant, but is not self-sealing, so surfaces must first be well sealed. Porous models must be vented from beneath to prevent trapped air from forming bubbles in the rubber. A hole at least -inch in diameter should be drilled through the base board into the porous model. The base of the model must be sealed around the perimeter with Poly Plasticene or glue to prevent liquid rubber from leaking under the model and through the vent hole.
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Mold Making Methods
Stir individual components before use if recommended. Some materials separate and will not cure properly if separated material is used. Weigh and measure accurately. Mix Ratios Vary! Check
the mix ratios for the specific product you are using. For liquid rubbers, most mix ratios are expressed by weight. Carefully weigh Parts A and B in proper ratio. Weighing components on an accurate scale is a must. Only materials with a mix ratio of 1:1 by volume can be measured by volume. Polytek does not recommend trying to measure any other mix ratio by volume. Before starting to mix rubber, have all materials at hand and at room temperature (75F). A Poly Paddle is an excellent tool for handmixing liquid rubber without introducing excess air into the mix. Scrape the sides and bottom of the mixing container thoroughly several times while mixing.
Time your actions with a clock. Start timing when you start
mixing. Try to have material poured and in place before half of the working time has elapsed so there is plenty of time for bubbles to rise away from the mold surface.
Mix well, but avoid whipping air into the mix. Scrape the
sides and bottom of the mixing container thoroughly several times while mixing. A Poly Paddle is invaluable for good mixing. Sometimes, to insure that no unmixed material is clinging to the sides or bottom, the mix can be poured into a clean container and mixed again for 1 to 2 minutes before pouring. For large mixes (i.e., >30 lb), a Jiffy Mixer (see p. 62) on a variable speed drill can be helpful, but care must be taken not to whip air into the mix or scrape the jiffy mixer blade against sides and bottom of the container.
Avoid being rushed. Careful planning allows for a deliberate pace without making mistakes.
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Mold Making Methods
Mold rubbers are typically applied to a model by pouring, brushing, or spraying. Liquid mold rubbers with thixotropic properties are ideal for brush and spray application. Think Polygel.
= 3.14
r = Radius ( diameter) h = Height
e.g., Using a 10-in tall section of 5-in diameter PVC pipe: 3.14 x (2.5 in x 2.5 in) x 10 in = 196 in3
2. Estimate the volume of the model. e.g., 8 in x 3 in x 3 in = 72 in3 3. Subtract the estimated volume of the model from the volume of the box. e.g., 250 in3 - 72 in3 = 178 in3 4. Use specific volume data (refer to Technical Bulletin for specific product) to convert the volume to quantity of liquid rubber needed in pounds. e.g., Using specific volume of Poly 74-30 Liquid Rubber (27.5 in3/lb): 178 in3 27.5 in3/lb = 6.5 lb Rubber
2. Estimate the volume of the model. e.g., 8 in x 3 in x 3 in = 72 in3 3. Subtract the estimated volume of the model from the volume of the cylinder. e.g., 196 in3 - 72 in3 = 124 in3 4. Use specific volume data to convert the volume to quantity of liquid rubber needed in pounds.
e.g., Using the specific volume of Poly 74-30 Liquid Rubber of 27.5 in3/lb: 124 in3 27.5 in3/lb = 4.5 lb Rubber
Note: For the hypothetical model above, far less liquid rubber is needed for the cylindrical mold. Choose your containment area carefully.
2.
3.
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Mold Making Methods 15
This blanket mold of a baluster is stored properly in its mold shell. The thin mold of PlatSil 73-45 is supported by a firm shell made from Poly 75-80 Liquid Rubber.
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Mold Making Methods
CLEANUP
Tools should be wiped clean with paper towels before the rubber cures. Casting plastics are extremely difficult to remove from tools once cured. Be sure to clean tools as soon as possible. Denatured ethanol is a good cleaning solvent, but it must be handled with extreme caution owing to its flammability and health hazards. Work surfaces can be waxed or coated with PolEase 2300 Release Agent so cured rubber and plastic can be removed.
An alternative to a traditional vacuum pump is a venturi vacuum pump from Vaccon Vacuum Products. This device is attached to a vacuum chamber and an air compressor. The high volume air from the compressor flows past the double venturi, creating a negative pressure area, which in turn evacuates the chamber. For some applications, the venturi pump is a less expensive and effective option. For more information, go to www.vaccon.com.
Pressure
Using pressure to eliminate bubbles can be even more useful. The process is like reversing the opening of a bottle of soda. When pressure is applied to liquid rubber or resin, small bubbles are forced into solution and disappear. To accomplish pressure casting, pour the resin or rubber and place the whole mold in a pressure pot before the material begins to set. Fasten the lid and pressurize to ~60 psi with compressed air or nitrogen. Allow the cure to take place under pressure. You will be amazed with the results. Inexpensive pressure pots typically used by spray painters are available from paint supply stores and industrial supply houses such as Grainger. Caution: Vacuum and pressure systems can be dangerous. If you have any questions about the construction or operation of your vacuum or pressure system, consult a qualified engineer. Never use glass parts unless they are certified for the purpose.
Vacuum
Using vacuum to pull air bubbles out of mixed liquid rubber or resin can often be very helpful. Place the container of mixed liquid rubber or resin in a vacuum chamber and draw about 28 inches mercury so that the largest air bubbles rise to the surface. You must perform degassing while the mix is still liquid. Do not attempt to vacuum degas Polytek rubbers or resins with short work times -- this can result in creating more bubbles. Some liquids rise 2 to 3 times their original volume during degassing, so use a container with adequate head space. Once degassed, the liquid should be poured carefully so that air is not reintroduced into the mix. Simple vacuum chambers can be constructed from pressure pots as well as from sturdy commercial cooking pots. Its best to have a transparent cover. Vacuum pumps can be purchased from laboratory equipment dealers. A vacuum pump that is too small with insufficient capacity can be a frustration. You may find your material gelling before it is free of bubbles. Buy a large enough vacuum pump that will get down to maximum vacuum quickly so you can degas and pour before your mixed material thickens or gels. A Welch Model 1397 can often be purchased from equipment dealers for ~$3,000 new or ~$1,500 used. It pulls 17.7 CFM and works well with a 40-quart pot. 16
Welch Model 1397 vacuum pump with a 40 quart pot and lid made with Poly-Optic 1410 Clear Casting Resin.
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Mold Making Methods
POURED MOLDS
One-Piece Block Mold
To make a poured block mold the model must be securely fastened (e.g., screwed or glued) to a base board. Kitchen countertop sink cut outs make excellent base boards. If the model is porous, a vent hole should be drilled through the baseboard to the model to allow air to escape. Sides of the mold containment area must be positioned and sealed to the base board (e.g., with plasticene or hot melt glue) so that liquid rubber cannot leak out. If the mold will be used without being placed in a box for support, then be sure to position the sides far enough from the model such that the rubber mold will be thick enough that it will not deform when it is full of casting material (at least 0.5-inch thick). Sometimes a strap is placed around the finished mold box to ensure that it all holds together. Once the model and the
Poured mold rubber
Vent hole
base and sides of the box are properly sealed and released, slowly pour liquid rubber directing the flow to the bottom of the box and being careful not to trap air bubbles as the liquid rises. The rubber should be at least 0.5 inches above the highest point on the model (mark the mold box before you start pouring liquid rubber).
should be decided before the mold rubber is poured, marked on the mold box and then transferred to the cured rubber mold. To cut the mold, use a mold key knife (see p. 62), which has a sharp blade with a groove that creates a tongue and groove effect in the cut rubber. This makes reassembling the mold with the seams properly aligned possible. Vents and pour holes can be cut or drilled into the cured rubber, or can be formed with rods or plasticene prior to pouring the rubber. When casting, cut block molds are reassembled and typically placed back into the containment area with the pour hole at the top for filling with casting material. Sometimes, block molds poured as one piece are the fastest to make even for oddly shaped models; but they require more liquid rubber than blanket molds. Making quality, multi-piece block molds requires considerable practice and expertise. Multi-Piece Block Mold
Chunk cut out to remove ears
Vent
This horse mold is cut from a single block of mold rubber. After pouring, curing and cutting the mold, it is reassembled and placed back into the mold box upside down for casting. Casting material is poured through the feet. As an alternative, the mold of the horse model could be made as a blanket mold poured into a pre-constructed shell -- this would mean easier cutting of the thinner blanket mold and using less mold rubber.
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positioning key
clay
mold rubber
First pour
vent
BLANKET MOLDS
Poured Blanket Mold
Generally, to make a poured blanket mold, the model is covered with clay and the mold shell is built over the clay-covered model, then the clay is removed and the liquid mold rubber is poured in the void left by the clay. First the model must be properly prepared (e.g., sealed and released) and mounted. Then the model is covered with plastic wrap to protect it before the clay is applied. The clay blanket is formed around the model and must fill-in any undercuts so that the mold shell cannot lock to the rubber mold. Since the shell is often made in two (or more) pieces, the clay is formed with protruding flanges, which act as parting lines for the shell. In fact, since the rubber replicates the clay blanket exactly, parting or cut lines should be delineated in the clay for transfer to the rubber. Sometimes snaps are placed along the clay blanket so that the rubber mold will snap into position in the mold shell. Cover the model with clay, then build the mold shell.
Shell (1st half) Clay Vent Vent Clay flange with groove Shell Clay plug to make pour hole in shell
The shell is made overtop of the clay usually by brushing on liquid plastic. Plastic mold shells are lightweight and durable and are typically made of Polygel Plastic or another liquid plastic (e.g., 15-6 or 1512X) thickened with an additive (e.g., Poly Fiber, see p. 61). The first section of the mold shell is built up against the clay flange. When the first section of shell is hard, the clay flange is removed, wax and then release is applied to the edge of the first shell section and the second section is built against the first section for a perfect keyed fit of the shell sections. To make the rubber mold, the clay and plastic wrap is removed from the model and then rubber is poured into the shell filling the void left behind. The rubber mold can be poured in one piece and cut with a mold key knife after curing. Or, for a two-piece mold, half of the clay is removed and rubber is poured in the void along half of the model. After the rubber cures, clay on the other half is removed, release is applied to the model and cured rubber, and liquid rubber is poured into the void along the second half of the model (see story with photos on pp. 22-23). Then pour liquid rubber into the shell.
Liquid rubber Mold strap Shell parting line
Snaps
Model
The prepared model is protected with a covering of plastic wrap and then a clay blanket (~0.5-inch thick) is built over the model. The shell is made over the clay by brushing on liquid plastic. The shell plastic is first applied to one half and cured. Then the clay flanges are removed and release agent is applied to the exposed plastic and the second half of the shell is built up to the first half.
After the clay is removed, liquid rubber is poured into the void. When making a one-piece or cut mold, all of the clay is removed and the entire space is filled with rubber. If necessary, the cured rubber is cut to remove the model.
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in the rubber mold that can lock the shell onto the rubber when there is a casting/model inside the mold (see box). The parting line for the rigid shell is defined with a clay (i.e., Poly Plasticene) flange applied over the mold. A groove or depressions should be made in the clay where it contacts the shell material to create good locking and positioning of the shell halves. The mold shell is built one section at a time against the release coated rubber mold and clay flange. When one section of the shell is complete, the clay is removed, Vaseline or butchers wax is applied to the exposed shell followed by a release agent, and the next shell section is built against the first. The two halves of the shell compress the rubber flanges along the mold opening together making a good seal so that liquid casting material cannot leak out. First, the model is prepared for making the blanket mold. Then thixotropic mold rubber is brushed on.
The model is prepared (i.e., sealed and released) and securely mounted to a base. A vent is drilled through the base to release air trapped in the model. Thin shims are placed along the model and in spaces formed under the legs and arms. The shims form a parting line in the brush-on rubber blanket mold. Once the shims are secure, the rubber is brushed on in several coats to - to -inch thick.
Shims
Vent
After the rubber cures, the rubber-coated model is prepared for construction of the mold shell.
A clay flange is formed around the model to define Clay Flange the parting line of the rigid mold shell. Depressions are made in the clay that will form snaps in the mold shell to help properly lock the mold shell halves together. In addition, rubber Snaps snaps can be placed on the rubber mold so that the mold snaps to the mold shell. The first half of the rigid mold shell is built up to the clay flange. Then, the clay is removed and the second half of the shell is constructed. When complete, the two halves of the shell compress the rubber along the mold opening to make for a good seal along the mold opening.
Rubber-Covered Model
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Procedures - Brush-On Mold Making a Brush-On Blanket Mold with a Plastic Shell
The following example details the procedures involved in making a brushed mold. The rubber that has been chosen is Poly 74-20, a soft, stretchy, 1A:2B by weight mix ratio, polyurethane liquid mold rubber. Of course, there are many variations to this technique and several choices of rubbers. We could have chosen to make a one-piece brushed mold with shims similar to what is shown on page 19. We just as easily could have made a two-piece mold where we need no cuts to remove two separate halves of the rubber mold. This example specifically demonstrates how to create a onepiece brushed mold without shims, which requires cutting a seam in the rubber to remove the master and subsequent castings. The master, shown in Photo 1, is made of a nonporous, polyurethane plastic, EasyFlo 60. As with all sealed, non-porous masters, they must be sprayed with a silicone release such as Pol-Ease 2300 Release Agent (when using polyurethane liquid rubber) and brushed with a clean, dry brush to insure uniform distribution of the release. Care is taken not to spray too much release since brush marks can be left behind and picked up in the finished mold. Also, excess release can be accidentally pushed around when brushing liquid rubber resulting in delamination between coats or unwanted surface texture. In order to make the mixed Poly 74-20 liquid rubber thixotropic so it clings to vertical surfaces, Poly Fiber II or Cab-O-Sil must be added. In this example, Cab-O-Sil is added in small amounts (Photo 2) and the liquid is carefully folded over to wet the powder (so it doesn't come out of the cup), then it is whipped into the rubber to a creamy, uniform consistency. Only a slight amount of thickening is desired in the first coat of rubber so all surface detail is captured without trapping bubbles at the mold surface. Photo 3 shows a thin, first coat of lightly thickened Poly 74-20/Cab-O-Sil being applied with a China bristle brush. After the first layer of rubber gels enough to be undisturbed by the next coat (~45 min - faster with Part 74 Part X), a second coat of slightly thicker (a little more Cab-O-Sil used) 74-20 is brushed over the first coat (Photo 4) and allowed to gel. Before Cab-O-Sil is put into the rubber to create the mix used for the third layer, a little unthickened Poly 74-20 is poured into a PlatSil 71-20 silicone mold to make long 1-inch by 1-inch strips (Photo 5) for creating a thick rubber flange that will be placed into the freshly gelled third coat of rubber to define the location of the seam line. Notice that this model has several "through holes" (between the arms and the legs) that need to be filled completely with liquid rubber to provide a thick enough section of rubber which will be cut when cured to remove the original. This third layer is done with an even more thixotropic, non-sag mix of 74-20 and Cab-O-Sil (Photo 6). When this layer is complete, the freshly gelled strip of Poly 74-20 rubber is removed from the 71-20 silicone mold and positioned against the mold where the seam line will be cut once the mold cures (Photo 7). A final coat of lightly thickened rubber is applied after the prior coat gels to seal in the seam line strip and to make a smooth outer coating, which makes the rubber mold more attractive and fit better into its rigid support shell (Photo 8). Once the rubber mold cures (overnight, or later that day if 74 Part X accelerator is used), it is trimmed at the base and a clay wall is built up to a line that will define the parting line of the two shell sections (Photo 9). Since the shell will be rigid, there can be no undercuts that will lock it onto the rubber mold. More complicated models may require more shell sections to insure that they can be easily removed. Notice the keys/grooves in the clay wall that will insure proper registration of the shell halves. Butcher's wax is brushed over the rubber mold, allowed to dry for 10 minutes, then sprayed with a coat of Pol-Ease 2300 Release Agent. To make the shell, Poly 1512X Polyurethane Liquid Plastic is mixed together (1A:1B), then Poly Fiber thickener is added to make it thixotropic (Photo 10). Poly Fiber is added until the resulting mix clings to the side of the mixing container. The thickened 1512X is applied ~-inch thick and allowed to cure ~60 min (Photos 11). The clay wall is removed, butcher's wax and Pol-Ease 2300 applied to the other side of the mold and against the first shell section and the above procedure with 1512X is repeated. The completed shell is drilled, bolted and edges sanded for easier handling (Photo 12). When the shell is removed, a mold key knife is used to cut a notch in the rubber the length of the seam from head to toe. A sharp scalpel is then used to cut the rest of the way to the master. As the rubber is peeled open, cuts are made between the legs and arms as needed to remove the original. Cutting in these areas is done using a series of short, jagged, zig-zag cuts in order to create a series of tiny keys that keep the seam registration exact (see photo above). The finished mold and shell are now ready for production!
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Photo 1
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Photo 5
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Photo 12
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Procedures - Poured Blanket Mold Making a Two-Piece Poured Blanket Mold in a Plastic Shell
This page details the step-by-step production of a flexible rubber mold and plastic mother mold of the 19-inch-tall, 19th-century marble statue entitled Ice Skater by Gori Nello. To build the shell for the first half of the mold, Poly Fiber was stirred into mixed Poly 15-6 Liquid Plastic until it was the consistency of cake frosting. Then, the thickened resin was laid on the first half of the clay in a manner similar to icing a cake. [Note: When making larger shells, multiple mixes of resin and Poly Fiber can be patched against each The original marble and plaster other to cover the entire surface.] After the first half and plastic reproductions made in the Poly 74-30 blanket mold. of the shell cured (~4 hours), the aluminum shims were removed and paste wax (i.e., Butchers Wax) and then release agent were applied to the first half of the shell (Photo 4). The second half of the shell was built against the first half in the same manner (Photo 5).
The Casting
Plaster was poured into the mold to clean and check the mold. Finally, release agent was applied, brushed out and the mold was properly positioned in its shell. Poly 15-3X, a mineral-filled, fast-setting polyurethane casting resin, was poured into the mold (Photo 12). The final casting was demolded in less than an hour. The excellent reproductions are shown with the original above.
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Photo 1
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Photo 12
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Architectural Restoration
HR Cast Stone and GFRC of Brooklyn, NY, has restored many of the most architecturally significant buildings in New York City. Whether the medium is brownstone, limestone, terra-cotta, plaster, or stone, the artists, moldmakers, and casters at THR have reproduced and restored it to match its original beauty. Newly cast parts made from cast stone, glassfiber-reinforced concrete (GFRC), or glass-fiber-reinforced gypsum (GRG) appear original in every way. THR has used Polytek products to recreate ornamental architectural elements in theaters such as Lyric and Ed Sullivan, museums such as the Metropolitan, and hotels like the Plaza and Ansonia, as well as churches, schools, and private residences. THR prefers Polygel rubbers (see p. 36) for brush-on or sprayed molds that are created on-site from an element before it is removed from the building. For work back at the shop, THR often opts for Poly 74-45. Once a mold of the original is made, a casting is taken and the artists meticulously recreate any eroded or missing detail, based on other parts of the original still in good shape, historical photographs, etc. Once the master is completed, a mold and perfect reproductions are cast. Since many architectural features repeat on a building, a mold such as this may be used again & again -- no problem for high-performance rubbers from Polytek. 24
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A decorative drapery rod end was cast using EasyFlo 60 Liquid Plastic (see p. 48), a super low viscosity polyurethane product, filled with bronze powder to create this faux metal part. The two-piece poured block mold registers nicely due to keys/snaps, which keep the mold aligned properly during the casting process. A PlatSil or TinSil silicone mold could easily produce many dozen resin castings or more without the need for release agent.
A Poly 15-6 plastic column capital is demolded from a TinSil 70-11 silicone rubber mold. This rubber is very soft (Shore A10) and stretchy eliminating the need for seams in the mold to remove cast parts. The shell was made using Poly LiteCast, a very low density, pourable polyurethane plastic to reduce the weight of the shell for easier handling. The column posthole was made by inserting a plastic pipe as a plug in the 70-11 mold prior to casting.
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Applications - Concrete
Flexible formliners of every size and design are routinely created using Poly 74, 75 and 77-Series Polyurethane Liquid Rubbers. These Poly rubbers are tough and abrasion resistant making them ideal for the rigors of repeatedly casting large concrete parts and panels. These formliners can be made to reproduce any surface texture or design and can be bonded to plywood or attached to rigid supports for precast or castin-place applications.
Cast veneer stones are made by pouring concrete into rubber gang molds such as this one made from Poly 74-44 polyurethane rubber. Individual stones can be cast simultaneously into multicavity molds then applied to a wall to give the look and feel of real stone. Flexible formliners/molds can be made of entire wall sections for extremely large projects.
Poly 75 and 81 Series Polyurethane Liquid Rubbers are used to make concrete stamping tools and texturing skins. These stamping tools are made by pouring rubber about -inch thick onto a pattern that mimics the design that will be imprinted to the concrete. Patterns such as slate, brick, irregular flagstone or any custom design including leaves, fossils and much more turns otherwise boring, flat,concrete pathways, driveways and patios into beautifully colored and textured surfaces.
Poly 74-45, a popular 1:1 mix, polyurethane liquid rubber, was used to make a paver mold. Pavers cast from molds made from liquid rubbers have much better, life-like surface detail than those made from rigid molds owing to the fact that the liquid rubber flows readily into all available detail on the master before curing. Hundreds to thousands of concrete parts can be cast from a single mold depending upon surface texture, proper selection of mold rubber and release agent, and careful demolding.
Polygel Spray 35 was used to make a mold of this architectural element. The casting was made from glass fiber reinforced concrete (GFRC). The Polygel mold was created using a lowcost (~$4,000) machine designed to automatically meter/mix and spray the liquid rubber at a 1:1 ratio. The resulting mold is thin (~3/8-inch thick) so it is very economical and easy to peel away from complex shapes. Polygel rubber can be brushed for smaller jobs or sprayed when larger surface area molds are needed. This mold was sprayed in one continuous process, which took less than 20 minutes to complete! Polygel Spray 35 cures enough in 6-8 hours to allow a shell to be applied in the same day.
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Applications - Concrete
A decorative concrete panel was cast as part of a building restoration project by THR Cast Stone and GFRC of Brooklyn, NY. A Poly 74-45 mold is shown being carefully demolded. The thin poured blanket mold was supported by a GFRC shell and wood-framed box displayed in the background. An article in Handy Magazine described how to use Poly 7580 Liquid Rubber to make thin, low-cost texturing skins to impart a slate appearance to flat concrete. These texturing skins were made by pouring Poly 75-80 over real pieces of slate (properly sealed and released). Once the first pour gelled, a second pour was made with slightly less rubber so it didn't quite flow to the edge of the previous pour. Even less rubber was used for the third pour done to make a texturing skin that was thicker in the middle with tapered edges. This allowed the thin cured rubber mats to be overlapped at the edges to make a seamless pattern in the concrete. A thin Poly 75-80 tool is shown being removed from the freshly textured surface. With the use of concrete colors and stains the results are stunning!
Highway sound barriers are becoming more popular to keep traffic noise from residential areas. Poly 75 Series rubbers were used to make flexible formliners with wildlife images to enhance the visual appeal of the standard ribbed wall panel design. Formliner designs incorporating rock, slate, brick, fossil, wood-texture and other architectural and artistic designs are becoming more common as architects realize the endless possibilities available when flexible molds are used.
Polygel Spray 50 was sprayed onto this larger-than-life head to make a thin, yet durable, mold. With the right equipment, this type of mold can be made anywhere -- even several stories above street level.
A Poly Latex 60 mold was made to reproduce this concrete angel. The mother mold (rigid shell) was made from Poly 15-6 Liquid Plastic thickened with Poly Fiber to make it brushable. The thin blanket mold could also have been made using Polygel 35 or Polygel 40, highperformance two part brushable rubbers. Latex rubber is a onepart mold material, but 15-30 coats of rubber applied over several days are required to complete the mold. A Polygel mold can be made in a matter of hours! This Angel blanket mold is a one-piece glove mold with no seams, whereas the rigid shell is made in several sections to accommodate numerous undercuts.
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Mold Making Methods
Applications - Prototyping & Model Making Prototype Parts of All Kinds Made with Polytek Liquid Rubbers & Plastics
Larami Limited, headquartered in Mt. Laurel, NJ, is the originator and manufacturer of the internationally-recognized Super Soaker toy water guns. With engineering and prototype model development facilities in Whitehouse Station, NJ, Larami Limited has been using Polyteks mold rubbers, such as PlatSil RTV Silicones, and casting plastics, such as Poly 15-3X, Poly 1512 and Poly-Optic 1410, very successfully to create their new products. Producing the Prototype Many different techniques involving numerous Polytek products are employed in the production of a unique model or prototype part such as the Super Soaker. Master models can be carved from wood, sculpted from clay, machined from polyurethane board, wood or plaster using CNC equipment, or created from a liquid photopolymer using a stereolithography process. As with any mold making process, it is important to determine the most appropriate combination of mold making and casting materials for the project at hand. If wax castings are to be made (say for a lost wax process as is used for making many metal prototype parts), then a polyurethane mold rubber such as Poly 74-30 or Poly 74-45 (see p. 34) may be the best choice as they are most cost-effective and release waxes nicely. Many times plastic parts are the desired end result, as in the case of a Super Soaker. PlatSil and TinSil RTV Silicone Rubbers (see pp. 40-45) are the best choice for casting polyurethane plastic prototypes. These highperformance silicone rubbers offer the best mold life and resistance to damage from repeated casting with chemically aggressive liquid polyurethane resins. TinSil 70-25 and 70-39 are popular silicone rubbers for modelmakers since they are lower-cost, tincatalyzed systems and have hardnesses that makes difficult parts easy to demold. When using any tin-catalyzed silicone rubber, be sure to perform a test cure to insure the alcohol released during the rubbers cure does not interfere with the cure of the polyurethane plastic. If alcohol on the mold surface poses a problem, heating the mold to 200F for several hours can assist alcohol removal. Any PlatSil rubbers can be used for casting polyurethane plastics. PlatSil 71-20 is an easy 1:1 mix, Shore A20 rubber with a super low viscosity and 4-hour demold. For applications requiring firmer rubber, PlatSil 71-35, 73-45, or 73-60 provide excellent tear and suitable hardnesses. When pouring any one of the TinSil or PlatSil rubbers over a model, PolEase 2350 Release Agent (non-silicone) should be evaluated as a release. Poly Plastics Have Thermoplastic Feel The Poly 15-Series products (see p. 49) offer many types and speeds of cure for almost every application. Poly 1512 and 1512X are most popular for prototypers interested in a tough, high-performance product with a thermoplastic feel. It has a 1:1 mix, can be easily colored with PolyColors, has low viscosity, a fast (5 min) or slow (20 min) potlife, and very impressive physical properties when cured. It is non-brittle in thin sections and has a high tensile strength. It can be sanded, carved, machined or painted as needed. Other 15-Series plastics can be used for lower (Poly LiteCast, page 54) or higher density (Poly 15-3X) parts. Poly 15-8 is also available for modelmakers interested in making heat-resistant tools for vacuumforming applications. For rapid-casting applications of complex parts requiring a resin
Larami Ltd., originator of the Super Soaker, uses Polyteks rubber and plastic products to make molds and castings for various prototyping projects. with a super-low mixed viscosity, try EasyFlo 60 Liquid Plastic (see p. 48). Rotational Casting An additional use of Polytek fast casting plastics at Larami was to rotationally cast the large pressure tank prototype for the Super Soaker squirt gun by rotating the hollow tank mold with a small amount of a Poly Plastic such as Poly 15-3X coating all surfaces as it set. Poly 15-3X sets in about 15 minutes at room temperature, but the silicone rubber mold was heated to hasten the set and demolding time of the Poly 15-3X resin. All Poly 15 Series resins can also be accelerated with a few drops of Poly 15 Part X Accelerator. See pages 46-56 for more information on Polyteks Liquid Plastics and page 64 for more on rotocasting. Water-Clear Poly-Optic 1410 Another Polytek polyurethane plastic used by Larami is Poly-Optic 1410, a water-clear, low viscosity resin, which can be used for transparent parts such as face shields, toy-auto windshields, windows, headlights and eyes.
PlatSil 71 and 73 Series mold rubbers are widely used for model making and prototyping. This two-piece block mold made of PlatSil 71-35 is used to reproduce a thin-walled car model. Prototypers cast dimensionally accurate parts fast using EasyFlo 60 Liquid Plastic (see p. 48).
Pressure casting can help prototypes and model makers create perfect, bubble-free castings. See page 16.
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Mold Making Methods 29
Tony Lorino, Capitol Displays of Nashville, TN, uses Poly Latex 60 molds to produce polyester and fiberglass copies of original sculpted models. Poly Latex 60 is the rubber of choice because of its durability and ease of application. Being a single component material, Poly Latex 60 is brushed on without the limitation of a pot life. Ten to twenty coats are applied, two per day, to build up proper mold thickness. Gauze is often incorporated into the latex to lend additional strength to large molds. Lorino then builds a rigid polyester and fiberglass mold shell over the latex mold to maintain the shape of the mold during casting. Poly 15-6 and Poly Fiber, or Polygel Plastic-75 should also be considered for this application. The end result is a lightweight, high tear strength mold with good resistance to the swelling caused by polyester resin. Poly Latex 60 molds allow Capitol Displays to produce detailed parts with undercuts that would be impossible with rigid molds.
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Mold Making Methods
A poured blanket mold made of Poly 74-20 polyurethane rubber was made from a chainsaw-carved wooden bear to create lightweight duplicates. Notice the thickened seam line in the back of the mold that was cut with a mold key knife to permit easy demolding and minimal seam cleanup. Since this mold is larger, "snaps" or "buttons" were made in the clay blanket which ultimately became part of the rubber mold so the mold would not flop away from the shell while being rotated in the rotocasting machine.
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Mold Making Methods 31
A poured blanket mold was made using PlatSil 71-20 Liquid Silicone Rubber, a unique, 1:1 mix, 4-hour-cure system, which can be used to cast any medium. This gargoyle could now be cast in plaster, concrete or any pourable plastic using this PlatSil mold. This blanket mold was poured in a single piece, then cut, using a mold key knife, up both sides to create a mold which opens like a book.
& More!
The use of Polyteks liquid mold rubbers and casting plastics is not just limited to the applications described on the past several pages! Candle makers Soap manufacturers Jewelers Taxidermists Forensic scientists Hobbyists of all kinds Inventors & many others Use Polytek products to make their creations.
If you have an application you dont see here, call Polytek Customer Service for assistance. The use of Polytek materials is limited only by the imagination -- may yours be limitless.
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To learn more about additives, refer to product technical bulletins or call Polytek Customer Service. Additives and accessories for polyurethane mold rubbers are listed in the box to the right. CLEAN UP Tools should be wiped clean before the rubber cures. Denatured ethanol is a good cleaning solvent, but it must be handled with extreme caution owing to its flammability and health hazards. Work surfaces can be waxed or coated with Pol-Ease 2300 Release Agent so cured rubber can be removed. SAFETY Before use, read product labels and Material Safety Data Sheets. Follow safety precautions and directions. Contact with uncured products may cause eye, skin and/or respiratory irritation and dermal and/or respiratory sensitization. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. If skin contact occurs, remove with waterless hand cleaner or alcohol then soap and water. In case of eye contact, flush with water for 15 minutes and call a physician. Use only with adequate ventilation. Do not use polyurethane products where food or body contact may occur. Polyurethanes burn readily when ignited. STORAGE LIFE At least six months in unopened containers stored at room temperature (60-90F). Parts A and B react with atmospheric moisture
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and, therefore, should be used up as soon as possible after opening. After opening, spray Poly Purge Dry Gas Blanket into containers before resealing to displace moist air and extend storage life. Polyurethane rubber molds can last many years if stored in their proper shape in a cool, dry location out of direct sunlight. 33
FEATURES
Easy-to-use formulations Flexible, strong mold rubbers Reproduce fine details Make tough, long-lasting molds and parts
the working time is reduced to approximately 8 minutes -- in the time it takes to mix the next batch, the previous brushed layer gels enough to apply the next coat. Demolding is possible in as little as 4 hours after the final layer is applied. Rapid curing with Part X allows a firm, yet flexible shell or mother mold to be made in the same day. For example, by adding 1% Part X (by weight of total mix) to Poly 75-80, the working time is reduced to approximately 10 minutes and demolding is possible in as little as 6 hours. Exercise caution when using Part X for poured molds since the rapid onset of gelling may trap air bubbles on or near the surface of the master. Poly 74/75 Part X affects each product differently. Before use, testing to determine the best amount of Part X to use is advised. CLEAN UP: See p. 33. SAFETY: See p. 33.
74-30
(74-30 Clear)
1A:1B 30 30
* Some Part Bs darken with age, but cured rubber properties are not affected.
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Moldmaker Chan Oeur (looking at camera) demolds a Poly 74-30 brushed mold from one of six panels created by artist Kate Burke for the Minnesota Veterans Home. They sprayed the model with Pol-Ease 2300 Release Agent, so the separation was perfectly clean and trouble-free.
A satisfied seminar attendee displays her cold cast bronze pot demolded from a twopiece, poured block mold made from Poly 74-20. The keys, which register the top and bottom halves of the mold, worked perfectly to create a thin, uniform wall thickness on the cast part.
74- & 75-Series Packaging Product (Mix Ratio) Unit Weight (lb)
6 24 120 1,350 4 16 80 900 6 24 120 675 1,350 5 20 40 100 562.5
Unit Components
Part A (lb) 2.0 8.0 40.0 450 2.0 8.0 40.0 450 4.0 16.0 80.0 450 900 4.0 16.0 32.0 80.0 450 Part B (lb) 4.0 16.0 80.0 900 2.0 8.0 40.0 450 2.0 8.0 40.0 225 450 1.0 4.0 8.0 20.0 112.5 Part A (volume) 1 qt 1 gal 5 gal 55 gal 1 qt 1 gal 5 gal 55 gal 2 x 1 qt 2 x 1 gal 2 x 5 gal 55 gal 2 x 55 gal 2 x 1 qt 2 x 1 gal 5 gal 2 x 5 gal 55 gal Part B (volume) 2 x 1 qt 2 x 1 gal 2 x 5 gal
22 x 5 gal/2 x 55 gal
Poly 74-29, 74-30, 74-30 Clear, 74-45 Poly 75-59, 75-60, 75-70 Mix Ratio: 1A:1B Poly 74-40, 74-44 Poly 75-75, 75-79, 75-80, 75-90 Mix Ratio: 2A:1B
1 qt 1 gal 5 gal 55 gal/11 x 5 gal 1 qt 1 gal 5 gal 6 x 5 gal 55 gal 1 pt 2 x 1 qt 1 gal 5 gal 3 x 5 gal
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Poly 74-40 was used to make a poured blanket mold of this shelf bracket. The bracket was rotocast using Poly 15-3X polyurethane to make a hollow part that was then backfilled with Poly 15-6 and Part 15F Foamer to give it strength while keeping it lightweight and low cost.
FEATURES
Easy -- 1:1 mix by weight or volume Excellent for brush-on and spray applications Fast -- one-day molds Tough and strong Color-coded mix indication Molds have long library life Good flow into fine detail Good dimensional stability
BRUSH-ON MOLDS WITH POLYGEL RUBBER: When brushing Polygel rubber, allow the first coat to gel enough so that the second coat will not disturb it (usually about 1 hour is adequate, 30 minutes for Polygel 35), then apply a second coat being careful to cover any thin spots in the first coat. Do not allow prior layers to cure completely before applying subsequent coats. Sprayed molds should be made in one continuous application without the need for individual layers. Ideally, a blanket mold should be at least 1/8-inch thick but not more than 3/8-inch, since too thick a layer of rubber causes difficulty turning a mold back on itself during demolding. Allow to cure at room temperature prior to demolding or building the mold shell. Strength continues to develop for several days. REINFORCING BRUSH-ON MOLDS: Rubber molds can be reinforced with Tietex Fabric (see Accessories), which is strong and wets out better than other fabrics. Tietex can be laminated at the top of a seam or strips can be laid around the perimeter of a mold to prevent tearing. The fabric can be embedded in the second or third coat of rubber while tacky and covered with a subsequent coat, which should be as fluid as possible for best penetra-
Polygel Mold Rubbers are specifically designed for brush-on and spray application. After Parts A+B are mixed, they form a thixotropic gel that clings to vertical and overhang surfaces after application. (610)559-8620 (800)858-5990
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Using Polygel Spray 50 a mold was made of this this large cornice bracket.
tion of the cloth. If the fabric is too close to the model surface, the weave pattern may show through to the face of the mold. NOTE ON LAYERING DIFFERENT POLYGEL RUBBERS: Typically, brush-on molds should be completed with one rubber. For example, if the face coat is brushed with Polygel 40, then all subsequent coats should be with Polygel 40. In some cases, the initial coat can be brushed with lower viscosity Polygel 35 or 40 for better detail and the second (usually final) coat with thicker Polygel 50 to speed the mold making process. This technique is acceptable for molds that do not require long-term storage or use. When layering different products, oils can transfer from one rubber to another causing warping or curling of the mold. In extreme cases, a mold can distort enough that it will not fit properly into its shell. THICKER MIXES FOR FILLING UNDERCUTS: Polygel Mold Rubbers can be made even thicker by stirring Poly Fiber II or Cab-O-Sil into the mixed Parts A and B. USING THE MOLD: See p. 32. If a Polygel rubber mold is to be turned inside out like a sock, the outside surface must be lubricated with soapy water or petroleum jelly so that it slides over itself easily. The shell or mother mold can be made of Polygel Plastics, plaster, polyester resin and fiberglass, or Poly 15-6 or 1512X resin filled with Poly Fiber or fiberglass (see p. 61). If the shell is built with Polygel Plastics or other resin, the rubber must be thoroughly coated with paste wax then Pol-Ease 2300 Release Agent to prevent the plastic from sticking to the rubber. A plaster shell must be sealed with potters soap, shellac, lacquer or wax to prevent mold distortion during storage or use. CLEAN UP: See p. 33. SAFETY: See p. 33. When spraying Polygel products, use adequate ventilation and personal protective equipment (i.e., respirators, gloves, coveralls).
This Polygel mold was used to rotocast hollow plaster columns used routinely for home and office decor.
80 lb 900 lb 37
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A large, flexible rubber dome mold was made quickly using Polygel Spray 50 for the restoration of the St. Joseph County Courthouse in Southbend, IN.
FEATURES
High-performance, high-elongation rubbers Hardnesses ranging from Shore A50 to A65 Easy-to-use formulations with 1:1 mix ratios Easy demolding without damaging molds Make tough, long-lasting molds
Part B
(Volume)
FEATURES
Firm rubbers ranging from Shore A90 to D45 Easy-to-use formulations Reproduce fine details Make tough, long-lasting molds, tools and parts
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Part B
(Volume)
1 pt gal 5 gal
FEATURES
Glass-like appearance (clear, pale blue) Reproduces fine detail Easy-to-use formulation -- 1A to 1B mix ratio Low viscosity mix with excellent bubble-release Long working time
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Mix Ratio, By Weight or Volume Hardness, Shore A Pour Time, 1-lb mix (min) Demold Time (hr) Specific Gravity Color, Cured Viscosity, 2.5 min after mix (cP) Specific Volume(in3/lb) 1A:1B 45-50 45 16 1.0 Glass Like/Blue-Clear* 1000 27.5
Unit Weight
A (lb)
4 lb 16 lb 80 lb 900 lb
2 8 40 450
* Upon exposure to UV light (i.e., fluorescent light or sunlight), cured rubber may yellow with age.
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PlatSil 71/73X Accelerator 4 oz, 1 pt (1 lb), 1 gal (8 lb) PlatSil 71R Retarder 4 oz, 1 pt (1 lb), 1 gal (8 lb), 5 gal (40 lb) PlatThix 4 oz, 1 pt (1 lb) Barrier PF 1 qt (1.5 lb), 5 gal (35 lb) Cab-O-Sil/Fumed Silica 5 gal, 1 bag (10 lb) Smiths Theatrical Prosthetic Deadener 1 qt (2 lb), 1 gal (8 lb), 5 gal (40 lb)
CAUTION! -- Certain chemicals cause cure inhibition in silicone rubbers. Beware of amines, polyesters and tin compounds with PlatSil systems. Sulfur compounds can affect both PlatSil and TinSil systems. Perform a test cure!
Poly-Sil rubber blanket molds reproduce the fine details of models and are soft and tough enough to easily pull off complex castings. Usually, the more intricate the model/casting, the softer the mold rubber selected. This very ornate column capital was easily cast in TinSil 70-11. The gargoyle mold was made using PlatSil 7120. The large, multi-piece, Ronald McDonald mold was made using TinSil 70-30 to cast numerous polyester resin parts.
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TinSil 70 Series
DESCRIPTION: TinSil 70 Series RTV Silicone Rubbers are condensation-cure, tin-catalyzed, flexible mold rubbers. TinSil products consist of a liquid Part B base and Part A accelerator, which, after mixing at the proper ratio by weight, cure at room temperature to rubber with a tough, knotty tear property. TinSil molds have easy release properties and are resistant to high temperatures. TinSil molds are excellent for casting polyesters, epoxy and polyurethane resins; waxes and many other materials. Choose the appropriate hardness of rubber for your application. TinSil 70-11, 70-20 and Gel-10 are soft and, therefore, best for delicate castings. Gel-10 is translucent and especially useful for animatronics and special effects. TinSil 70-25 and 70-30 are Polyteks most popular and versatile, mid-range hardness, silicone rubbers. TinSil Spray-25 is sprayable or brushable and can be applied by hand or sprayed with a low-cost Plas-Pak spray gun or more sophisicated 1A:10B silicone spray equipment. Spray 25 is great for large scale blanket molds! TinSil 70-39 is firm with excellent tear properties making it popular for casting polyurethane foams and plastic prototypes. TinSil 70-60 is stable at higher temperatures making it suitable for casting low melting metals. TinSil 70-60 has limited tear strength because of its hardness. MODEL PREPARATION: See p. 40. MIXING AND CURING: See p. 40. CAUTION! TinSil products release alcohol while curing, which results in slight shrinkage of the rubber (up to 1%) and can inhibit the surface cure of some polyurethanes. If shrinkage cannot be tolerated, consider PlatSil rubbers. Before casting polyurethanes in a TinSil mold, evaporate alcohol by letting the mold sit in a warm location for 24 hours or by baking the mold for 4 hours at ~200F. USING THE MOLD: See p. 40. [Note: Molds made with excess catalyst may be subject to faster degradation on aging.] ACCELERATING CURE SPEED: Use TinSil FastCat in place of any TinSil Part A in order to accelerate cure and shorten demold time. FastCat can be used in a range of 2-6 parts per 100 parts B; see product technical bulletin for details. Use of FastCat can shorten the library life of cured TinSil rubber. THICKENING FOR BRUSH ON: Add TinThix liquid thickener or Cab-O-Sil to liquid TinSil rubbers for brushing on a blanket mold. TinThix can be mixed into the Part B (before mixing with Part A) to achieve varying levels of thixotropy. ACCESSORIES: See box on p. 41. SAFETY: See p. 41.
TinSil Product
Gel-10, 70-11, 70-20, 70-25, Spray 25 and 70-39 Mix Ratio 1A:10B
TinSil Packaging
Unit Sizes (lb) 1.0 2.0 (Spray 25 Cartridge) 9.0 44.0 495 1.02 8.3 40.8 448.8 1.05 8.4 42.0 Part A (lb) 0.1 0.2 0.9 4.0 45.0 0.02 0.2 0.8 8.8 0.05 0.4 2.0 Part B (lb) 0.9 1.8 8.1 40.0 450 1.0 8.1 40.0 440 1.0 8.0 40.0 (610)559-8620 (800)858-5990
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PlatSil 71 Series
DESCRIPTION: PlatSil 71 Series RTV Silicone Rubbers are two-component, addition-cure, platinum-catalyzed, flexible mold compounds. The 71 Series products exhibit a tough, knotty tear, making them especially valuable to the mold making industry. They are excellent mold materials for casting polyester, epoxy and polyurethane resins, as well as for waxes and many other materials. PlatSil 71 Series products offer advantages over tincatalyzed systems in certain applications because on curing they dont shrink and dont produce alcohol (like tin-catalyzed silicones), which can inhibit polyurethane castings. MODEL PREPARATION: See p. 40. MIXING & CURING: See p. 40. USING THE MOLD: See p. 40. ACCELERATING CURE SPEED: Accelerate the cure with heat or the addition of PlatSil 71/73X. Mix 71/73X with Part B prior to adding Part A. Weigh and add Part A to the accelerated Part B mixture and mix thoroughly. Pour over a properly prepared model as soon after mixing as possible. The addition of 1 part 71/73X per 100 parts of Part B decreases the gel time to ~1/3 the normal gel time. The addition of 2 parts decreases the normal gel time to ~1/4. The addition of 3 parts decreases the normal gel time to ~1/6. Experimentation on a small scale is recommended before making a larger mix.
FEATURES
Easy mix ratios; some 1:1 mixes available Cure at room temperature or accelerate with heat Easy release properties -- save on release agents High tear strength -- fewer prematurely torn molds Good chemical resistance for longer mold life Low/zero shrinkage for dimensional reproduction Range of hardnesses from A10 to A40 Silicone Mold Rubber 43
RETARDING CURE SPEED: PlatSil 71R added to PlatSil Part A prior to mixing with Part B slows the cure yielding longer working time and longer demold time. Adding ~1% of 71R to the total mixed weight of PlatSil A+B roughly doubles the working time. Adding ~2% of 71R triples working time. Do not use more than 4% as the system may not cure at all. THICKENING FOR BRUSH ON: For brushing on skin mold, thicken PlatSil 71 Series rubbers with PlatThix or Cab-O-Sil. When brushing PlatSil 71-11 or 71-20, apply subsequent coats to the previous layer within one hour to obtain best adhesion. ACCESSORIES: See box on p. 41. SAFETY: See p. 41.
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Mix Ratio (By Weight) Hardness, Shore A Pour Time (min) Demold Time (hr) @ 77F Color Mixed Viscosity (cP) Specific Volume (in3/lb) Specific Gravity Shrinkage Upon Cure 71-10 1A:10B 10 5 0.5 Pink 3,500 26 1.06 Nil 71-11 1A:1B 10 20 4 Blue Green 6,000 24.7 1.12 Nil 71-20 1A:1B 20 25 4 Lt. Purple 12,000 24.7 1.12 Nil PACKAGING Product PlatSil 71-11, 71-20 Mix Ratio 1A:1B PlatSil 71-10, 71-30, 71-35 Mix Ratio 1A:10B Unit Weight (lb) 2.0 16.0 80 1.0 9.0 44.0 495 9.8 48.0 528 Size A 1 pt 1 gal 5 gal 4 oz 1 pt gal 6 gal 1 qt 1 gal 2 x 6 gal B 1 pt 1 gal 5 gal 1 pt 1 gal 5 gal 55 gal 1 gal 5 gal 55 gal A 1.0 8.0 40.0 0.1 0.9 4.0 45.0 1.7 8.0 88 Net Weight (lb) B 1.0 8.0 40.0 0.9 8.1 40.0 450 8.1 40 440 71-30 1A:10B 30 60 24 Lt.Green 25,000 24.7 1.12 Nil 71-35 1A:10B 35 60 24 Blue 25,000 24.7 1.12 Nil 71-40 1A:5B 40 60 24 Hazy transparent 25,000 25 1.10 Nil
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PlatSil 73 Series
DESCRIPTION: PlatSil 73 Series RTV Silicone Rubbers are two-component, high-tear strength, flexible mold compounds. The 73 Series rubbers are excellent mold materials for many casting materials including polyester, epoxy and polyurethane resins. PlatSil 73 Series silicones are addition-cure, platinumcatalyzed systems and offer advantages over tin-catalyzed systems in certain applications because on curing they dont shrink, they dont produce alcohol, which can inhibit urethane castings, and their cure can be heat accelerated. MODEL PREPARATION: See p. 40. MIXING & CURING: See p. 40. Silicone Mold Rubber USING THE MOLD: See p. 40. ACCELERATING CURE SPEED: Accelerate the cure with heat or the addition of PlatSil 71/73X. Weigh and add 71/73X to Part B and mix. Weigh and add Part A to the accelerated Part B mixture and mix thoroughly. Pour over a properly prepared model as soon after mixing as possible. Demold when tack free. The addition of 1 part 71/73X per 100 parts of Part B decreases the gel time to ~35 min. The addition of 2 parts decreases the gel time to ~30 min. The addition of 3 parts decreases the gel time to ~25 min. The addition of 71/73X softens the cured rubber slightly. Remember, heat accelerates the cure; low temperatures slow the cure.
FEATURES
Low viscosity for excellent detail reproduction and easy degassing. Easy 10A:100B mix ratio -- can use with dispensing machines Cure at room temperature or accelerate with heat Easy release properties -- save on release agents High tear strength -- fewer prematurely torn molds Good chemical resistance for longer mold life Low/zero shrinkage for better dimensional reproduction Range of hardnesses from A30 to A60
THICKENING FOR BRUSH ON: PlatSil 73 Series rubbers can be thickened with PlatThix liquid thickener or with Cab-O-Sil for brushing on a blanket mold. ACCESSORIES: See box on p. 41. SAFETY: See p. 41.
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Mix Ratio, By Weight Hardness, Shore A Pour Time (min) Demold Time @ 77oF (hr) Color Mixed Viscosity (cP) Specific Volume (in3/lb) Specific Gravity Shrinkage Upon Cure 73-29 10A:100B 30 45 16 White 15,000 25.0 1.10 Nil 73-45 10A:100B 45 60 16 Green 35,000 21.3 1.30 Nil 73-60 10A:100B 60 45 16 Blue 40,000 21.3 1.30 Nil
PACKAGING
PlatSil 73-29, 73-45, 73-60 Mix Ratio 10A:100B Unit Weight (lb) 1.0 9.0 44.0 495 (73-29) 550 Size A 4 oz 1 pt 0.5 gal 6 gal 6 gal B 1 pt 1 gal 5 gal 55 gal 55 gal Components Net Weight (lb) A 0.1 0.9 4.0 45.0 50.0 B 0.9 8.1 40.0 450 500
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PlatSil Gel-10
DESCRIPTION: Platil Gel-10, a translucent, soft rubber, is an excellent mold material for delicate casting projects and creating special effects. Gel-10 is a two-part, addition cure, liquid silicone system with an easy 1:1 mix ratio. After mixing Parts A and B, Gel-10 cures within 30 minutes at room temperature to a soft, tough rubber. Gel-10 does not shrink on curing. For special effects, soften PlatSil Gel-10 by adding Smiths Theatrical Prosthetic Deadener. Deadened PlatSil Gel-10 is excellent for creating skins and self-sticking appliances. MODEL PREPARATION: See p. 40. MIXING AND CURING: See p. 40. Normal mixes gel in approximately 6 minutes at room temperature; faster if warm, slower if cold. Immediately place the mix over the model or in the mold. There is not normally adequate time for vacuum (unless retarder is used), but pressure casting may be useful to eliminate bubbles. Contamination with soaps, amines, sulfur, tin compounds and some RTV Silicone Rubbers may inhibit surface cure. USING THE MOLD: For best results, allow PlatSil Gel-10 to cure for at least 1 hour before use. No release agent is necessary for casting most materials in properly cured PlatSil Gel-10. For longer mold life, however, use a barrier coat or release agent when casting epoxy, polyurethane or polyester resins. ACCELERATING CURE SPEED:Mix PlatSil 71/73X into Part B prior to adding Part A to accelerate gel time and cure. See product technical bulletin for details. RETARDING CURE SPEED: Add PlatSil 71R to Part A prior to mixing with Part B to slow the cure for longer working time and demold time. Add 71R at 1% of the weight of total mix (A+B) to double the working time. Add up to 5% for a 60minute work time with 120-minute demold time. THICKENING FOR BRUSH ON: Thicken with TinThix liquid thickener or with Cab-O-Sil for brush-on application. Add 1% TinThix to the total mix weight for a light-bodied, non-sag gel. SMITHS THEATRICAL PROSTHETIC DEADENER: Add up to 250% of Smiths Deadener to the total Gel-10 mix weight (A+B) to create super soft, gel-like, self-sticking prosthetics or gel-filled appliances. If applied behind a casting of straight PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Mix ratio, by weight Hardness, Shore A Pour time, minimum Demold time @ 25C (77F) Color Viscosity, mixed Specific volume (in3/lb) Specific gravity @ 25C (77F) Shrinkage upon cure www.polytek.com 1A:1B 10 + 2 6 min 30 min Colorless 15,000 cP 25 1.10 Nil
FEATURES
Soft (~A10), translucent, silicone rubber Easy 1:1 mix ratio Fast 30-minute demold with 6-minute work time PlatSil 71R Retarder slows the cure PlatSil 71/73X Accelerator speeds the cure PlatThix thickens the mix to a brushable paste Bonds to Poly Plastics
The term deadener was coined by Gordon Smith of FXSmith, who developed this additive. Deadened Gel-10 does not have the springy, snappy feel typical of silicone rubber, but rather resembles the feel of human tissue. Go to www.fxsmith.com for more information. BONDING TO PLASTICS: PlatSil Gel-10 bonds to clean, cured Poly 15 Series plastics that are less than 24-hours old. See product technical bulletin for details. ACCESSORIES: See box on p. 41. SAFETY: See p. 41.
David Gavin and colleagues from Arran Studios in Cork, Ireland, proudly display their Velociraptor casting made with life-like PlatSil Gel-10 skin. PlatSil Gel-10 makes great animatronic skins. The product can be softened with the addition of Silicone Fluid and colored to make the look and feel just right.
PACKAGING
Mix Ratio: 1A:1B (By Volume) Unit Weight (lb) A 2.0 16.0 80.0 1 pt 1 gal 5 gal Size B 1 pt 1 gal 5 gal Containers Net Weight (lb) A 1.0 8.0 40.0 B 1.0 8.0 40.0
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PlatSil Gel-10, the underlying gel can mimic the slow stretch and recovery properties of human tissue. Pigments can be added to PlatSil Gel-10 and/or Deadener to achieve any color needed.
Casting Plastics/Resins
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Casting Plastics/Resins
Foamer - A chemical foamer can be added to some liquid plastics to turn them into foams. Colors - PolyColors can be added to liquid plastics (see p. 61). Barrier Coat - A barrier coat (i.e., Barrier PF) is a fast drying, lacquer-like primer that is sprayed into a silicone mold and allowed to dry prior to pouring plastic. The plastic cures against the barrier coat and comes out on the plastic casting resulting in a primed part. Using a barrier coat often extends mold life.
eye contact, flush with water for 15 minutes and call a physician. Use only with adequate ventilation. Polytek plastics are not to be used where food or body contact may occur. Plastics burn readily when ignited. Care should be taken with sanding dust and other easily ignitable forms of these products. STORAGE LIFE Polytek liquid plastics can be stored for at least six months in unopened containers stored at room temperature (60-90F). Cured plastics will last indefinitely, but may discolor as noted above. In order to maintain dimensions, Poly Plastic mold shells must be stored in temperatures <100F. Also, the shells must not be distorted in storage (e.g., no heavy objects placed on top).
To learn more about additives, refer to product-specific technical bulletins or call Polytek Customer Service. Additives and accessories for Polytek plastics are listed in the box to the right. FINISHING Many cured plastics yellow slightly and chalk when exposed to sunlight and, therefore, should be painted or sealed for exterior use. If they are to be painted or coated, adhesion of the coating should be checked carefully over a period of time to determine that it is satisfactory for the intended use. If all mold release is removed by detergent washing, most oil paints work well. Castings can be drilled, sanded and machined. CLEAN UP Tools should be scraped clean before the plastic is hard. Denatured ethanol is a good cleaning solvent, but it must be handled with extreme caution owing to its flammability and health hazards. Work surfaces can be waxed or coated with Pol-Ease 2300 Release Agent so cured rubber can be removed. SAFETY Before use, read product labels and Material Safety Data Sheets. Follow safety precautions and directions. Contact with uncured products may cause eye, skin and/or respiratory irritation. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. If skin contact occurs, remove with waterless hand cleaner or alcohol then soap and water. In case of
Poly Fiber II 5 gal, 1 bag (10 lb) Pol-Ease 2300 Release Agent 12-oz can, case of 12 cans Pol-Ease 2500 Release Agent (Cleanable/Paintable) 12-oz can, case of 12 cans Pol-Ease PF Release Agent 1 qt (2.0 lb), 5 gal (40 lb) Barrier PF Barrier Coat 1 qt (2.0 lb), 5 gal (40 lb) Poly Purge 10-oz can, case of 12 cans PolyColors Red, Green, Yellow, Blue, Brown & Black 4-oz bottle (0.25 lb), 1.0 pint (1.0 lb)
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Casting Plastics
Casting Plastics/Resins
FEATURES
Easy 1:1 mix ratio by volume Extremely low viscosity -- pours like water Sets fast with rapid demold Reproduces finest details Tough, non-brittle formula Excellent bubble release without vacuum or pressure Readily accepts high filler levels Low odor
Casting Plastics
CURING: See p. 46. ADDITIVES: Various fillers (bronze powder, microballoons, calcium carbonate, sand, granite, etc.) can be added as desired. Fillers must be thoroughly dried before mixing with resin. PolyColors (see p. 61) can be added to EasyFlo Part B before mixing with Part A to create plastic of any color desired. FINISHING: See p. 47. CLEAN UP: See p. 47. SAFETY: See p. 47.
These bronze castings were created quickly and easily by mixing bronze powder with EasyFlo 60 Liquid Plastic. Large castings such as this 10-inch tall Zeus head can be rotocast with EasyFlo 120 to create hollow parts weighing a fraction of the weight of solid castings.
120 1A:1B
Clear 1A:1B
100A:90B 100A:90B 65 2-2.5 15-30 1.03 White 120 26.9 200 72 2-2.5 15-30 1.03 Amber 110 26.9 208
PACKAGING
Product(s) Part A (lb) 1 qt (2.0) EasyFlo 60, 95, 120, & Clear 1 gal (8.0) 5 gal (40.0) 55 gal (450) Part B (lb) 1 qt (1.8) 1 gal (7.2) 5 gal (36.0) 55 gal (405) Unit 3.8 lb 15.2 lb 76.0 lb 855 lb
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Casting Plastics/Resins
FEATURES
Easy -- 1:1 mix ratio formulations Reproduces fine details Can be machined, drilled, sanded Tough and hard, but not brittle Lightweight for mold shells Low shrinkage upon cure Air bubbles rise and break Long working time or instant set with 15X Low odor formula Castable in large masses Sprayable for hardcoating
PolyColors (see p. 61) can be added to some 15 Series Part Bs before mixing with Part A to create colored plastics. FINISHING: See p. 47. STORAGE: In order to maintain dimensions, Poly Plastic mold shells must be stored in temperatures <100F. Also, the shells must not be distorted in storage (e.g., no heavy objects placed on top). See p. 47. CLEAN UP: See p. 47. SAFETY: See p. 47.
15-6
1A:1B 72 5 203F (95C) 1-3 1.08 Tan 800 26 0.003*
15-8
26A:100B 80 30 131F (55C) 1-16 1.57 Gray 6,000 17.6 0.0002
1510
1A:1B 71 19 264F (129C) 1-16 1.08 Off-White 160 26 Very low*
1511
1A:1B 71 8-10 251F (122C) 0.5-1 1.10 White 400 25.1 Very low*
1512/1512X
1A:1B 71 22 (1512) 5 (1512X) 251F (122C) 1-16 (1512) 0.5 (1512X) 1.10 White 400 25.1 Very low*
*Shrinkage is primarily caused by gelling while hot then cooling. Parts that cure with minimal temperature rise usually exhibit minimal shrinkage.
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Casting Plastics
Add fillers as needed to vary the density and appearance of the cured plastic. Microballoons can be added to create a wood-like, density. Other fillers include metal (e.g., bronze) or stone (e.g., calcium carbonate) powders. Add fillers after Parts A and B are mixed. Fillers must be thoroughly dried before mixing with resin.
Casting Plastics/Resins
Polytek is proud to share its hometown, Easton, PA, with Crayola Inc. The larger-than-life crayons falling from the roof of the Crayola Factory Visitors Center were cast in Poly 15-6 Liquid Plastic.
Poly 15 Series Liquid Plastics reproduce the finest detail. Fillers can be added to Poly 15 Series Liquid Plastics to create castings with varying looks and densities.
Casting Plastics
Mother Earth Float in Macys 74th Annual Thanksgiving Day Parade was hard-coated with Poly 1512X Liquid Plastic to create a tough, paintable surface. The float, sponsored by Maytag Neptune Washer, was built at Macys Parade Studio.
15 Series Product
Unit Sizes (lb) Poly 15-3, 15-3X Mix Ratio 1A:1B 5.0 20.0 100 4.0 16.0 80.0 900 3.2 12.0 48.5
Packaging
Part A (lb) 1 qt (2.5) 1 gal (10) 5 gal (50) 1 qt (2.0) 1 gal (8.0) 5 gal (40.0) 55 gal (450) 1 pt (0.7) 1 qt (2.5) 1 gal (10.0) Part B (lb) 1 qt (2.5) 1 gal (10) 5 gal (50) 1 qt (2.0) 1 gal (8.0) 5 gal (40.0) 11 x 5 gal (450) 55 gal (450) 1510 only! 1 qt (2.5) 1 gal (9.6) 5 gal (38.0) (610)559-8620 (800)858-5990
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Casting Plastics/Resins
FEATURES
Crystal clear, like water Low viscosity for easy pouring Reproduces fine detail Can be machined, drilled and sanded Long working time Low shrinkage upon cure
MIXING: See p. 46 for information on proper mixing. VACUUM DEGASSING OR PRESSURE CASTING: For bubble-free Poly-Optic castings, vacuum degassing or pressure casting must be employed. See page 16 for more information on vacuum and pressure. A light spray of Pol-Ease 2300 or quickly passing the flame of a torch over the back of the casting helps break any bubbles on the back of the pour. Casting Plastics 51 CURING: Poly-Optic 1410, 1411 and 14-70 cure at room temperature. For castings less than 0.25-inch thick, 1411 is recommended because it can be demolded more quickly in thin sections. For thinner castings, or when using Poly-Optic 1410 for thin parts, add Part 14X Catalyst or heat cure (8 hr at 140-150F). Castings greater than 0.5-in thick do not require heat or 14X, but the addition or use of either will speed up the curing process considerably. Poly-Optic 1420 cures in 8 hours at 150F, or 16 hours for optimum physical properties. If cured at a higher temperatures, parts may be demolded sooner (e.g., 30 min at 180F depending on size. For brittle, glass-like parts, cure 1420 at room temperature. Wash mold release from surfaces prior to painting or bonding. ACCELERATING CURE SPEED: Mix Poly-Optic 14X Catalyst into Part B prior to adding Part A to accelerate the gel and cure time for Poly-Optic resins. 14X is recommended for castings less than 0.5-in thick. For best results, mix Parts A and B, degas if required, then add 14X and degas again if necessary. Adding 0.5% 14X to the total mix weight speeds the cure significantly. For example, 0.5g 14X in a 100g mix of Poly-Optic 1410 halves the
Poly-Optic 1420 cures to a tough, impact- and heat-resistant plastic that can be polished and machined. For strong plastic, heat cure 1420 at 150-180F. For brittle, glass-like castings, cure at room temperature. Poly-Optic 14-70 is a firm rubber. Blend 1410 and 14-70 to achieve any hardness between Shore D85 and Shore A70. (See table on next page.) MOLD PREPARATION: Poly-Optic products reproduce minute detail from a mold or pattern but may stick or foam when poured on improperly prepared surfaces. A trial casting on a surface finish similar to the final mold should be made to avoid damaging a valuable mold. Polyethylene and silicone rubber molds, such as PlatSil 71and 73 Series products, do not require a release agent. [CAUTION: Condensation-cure silicones (i.e., TinSil 70 Series) are not recommended for casting Poly-Optic since residual alcohol may inhibit the cure or result in hazy castings.] Latex, polyurethane or metal molds must be dry and require a coat of a suitable release agent, such as Pol-Ease 2300 Release Agent. For optically clear castings, use highly polished masters to create molds with excellent surface quality.
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Poly-Optic Product Mix Ratio Hardness (Shore A or D) Pour time (min), 2-lb mix Maximum exotherm, 2-lb mass Demold time (hr)* Specific gravity Viscosity, 2 min after mixed (cP) Specific Volume, in3/lb * 1410 3A:2B, by weight D80 15 265F (129C) 2 (1-in thick)* 1.07 700 27.5 1411 1A:1B, by volume D80 9 228F (109C) 0.5 (.5-in thick) 1.07 600 27.5 1420 2A:1B, by weight D85 15 311F (155C) 8 @150F/0.5 @175F 1.05 250 27.5 14-70 4A:5B, by weight A70 15 190F (88C) 24-48 1.06 340 27.5
Demold time varies with thickness of casting and the amount of Part 14X Catalyst added.
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Casting Plastics/Resins
PACKAGING
Product Poly-Optic 1410 Mix Ratio 3A:2B Poly-Optic 1411 Mix Ratio 1A:1B (By Volume)
pour and cure time. Exotherm (heat of reaction; see p. 6) and thus shrinkage on cooling is also increased. Experiment to determine the best amount of 14X to use, but do not use more than 1% 14X because final physical properties may be affected. RETARDING CURE SPEED: Poly-Optic 14R Retarder slows the cure of Poly-Optic systems. Slowing the cure also reduces exothermic heating that can cause distortion, waviness and shrinkage especially in castings >0.5-inch thick. Add 1.5% 14R to the total mix weight of Poly-Optic 1410 to increase pot-life from 15 minutes to 70 minutes. Add 1% 14R to 1411 to double the working time from 9 to 18 minutes. Depending on the size and mass of the part, post curing Poly-Optic 14-70 and 1410 parts in the mold at a minimum of 140F for 12 to 16 hours may be necessary. The extended pot-life creates a lower exotherm upon curing, allowing larger castings to be made without distortion. Never use more than 4% since the system may not cure properly. See table to right regarding 14R addition to 1410. COLORS: Add PolyColors (see p. 61) to 14 Series Part B before mixing with Part A to create clear plastics of any color. EXTERIOR USES: Although Poly-Optic 1410, 1411 and 1420 are non-yellowing formulas, they are not recommended for longterm exterior use. Poly UV Additive can be added to improve durability for exterior applications. Add 1% UV Additive to the total mix weight of Poly-Optic to reduce the onset of chalking and pitting of the outside surface for ~2 years. Add 3% Poly UV Additive to achieve good exterior stability beyond 5 years. CLEAN UP: See p. 47. SAFETY: See p. 47. STORAGE LIFE: Poly-Optic liquids can be stored for at least 6 months in unopened containers stored at room temperature. PolyOptic Part As may crystallize slightly or become viscous during storage. If crystallization occurs warm the container to 100-120F until crystals dissipate. Cool to room temperature before use.
Unit Weight (lb) 10.0 60.0 3.8 15.2 76.0 6.0 24.0 120.0 14.4 72.0
Casting Plastics
The clarity of Poly-Optic 1410 is remarkable. This amazing negative sculpture comes to life with overhead lighting.
1410 Part B
52
42
33
23
13
14-70 Part B Shore A Hardness Poly-Optic 1410 Liquid Plastic was poured into a cylindrical mold to form a rod, which was softened in hot water and coiled around a mandrel. Once cooled, it holds its shape to form a tough, spring-like coil. Shore D Hardness
25
44
62
82
100
NA
NA
95
88
75
87
77
60
37
25
* Note: Premix Poly-Optic 1410 and 14-70 Part Bs prior to mixing with Part A. Poly-Optic 1410 and 14-70 Part As are the same; therefore, premixing Part As is not necessary.
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Casting Plastics/Resins
FEATURES
Easy 1:1 mix ratios Self-skinning foams Rigid and flexible foams Densities range from 3 to 20 lb/ft3
POLYFOAM PHYSICAL PROPERTIES R-2 Mix Ratio (By Weight or Volume) Mix Viscosity (cP) Cream Time (sec) Rise Time (min) Tack-Free Time (min) Demold Time (min) Free-Rise Density (lb/ft3) Molded Density (lb/ft3) 1A:1B 500 30 3 10 30 2.5 4-8 R-5/R-8 1A:1B 1100 45 2 3 10-15 5 (R-5) 8 (R-8) 8-20 F-5 1A:1B 1400 45
25 30-60 5 8-15
Barrier PF, sprayed and allowed to dry in the mold before casting will result in a pre-primed part upon demolding. CLEAN UP & SAFETY: See p. 47.
POLYFOAM PACKAGING
Components Unit Weight (lb) Part A (lb) 4.0 16.0 80.0 900 1 qt (2.0) 1 gal (8.0) 5 gal (40.0) 55 gal (450) Part B (lb) 1 qt (2.0) 1 gal (8.0) 5 gal (40.0) 55 gal (450)
PolyFoam R-2, R-5, R-8 and F-5 Mix Ratio 1A:1B (By Weight or Volume)
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Casting Plastics
3-5
Casting Plastics/Resins
PACKAGING
Unit Weight (lb) A 3 12 60 1 qt 1 gal 5 gal Size B 1 qt 1 gal 5 gal Containers Net Weight (lb) A 1.5 6.0 30.0 B 1.5 6.0 30.0
FEATURES FLEXIBLE! Wood-like density Safe and easy to machine, drill or sand (no silica)
PACKAGING
Unit Weight (lb) A 8.1 38.5 192.5 1 qt 1 gal 5 gal Size B 1 gal 5 gal 5 x 5 gal Containers Net Weight (lb) A 2.1 10.0 50.0 B 6.0 28.5 142.5
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Casting Plastics/Resins
The photo below shows the brushed Polygel 35 mold supported by its thin, lightweight Polygel Plastic-75 shell. The hollow, rotocast part was cast using EasyFlo 120 and swirled PolyColor dye to achieve a marbled appearance.
PACKAGING Mix Ratio 1A:1B (by weight or volume) Unit Weight (lb) 4 16 80 900 80 55
Polygel Plastic-75
Polygel Shell
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Casting Plastics
This photo shows Polygel Plastic-75 being applied with a spatula over a Polygel 35 rubber mold to create a rigid plastic mold shell. Notice that the uncured plastic is thixotropic -- it can be moved around the mold surface but does not drip or sag.
Casting Plastics/Resins
Polypoxy Resins
DESCRIPTION: Polypoxy Resins and Poly Cure Hardeners are liquids that, after mixing in proper ratio, cure at room temperature to high-strength plastics. Resins can be cured with various curatives enabling users to select the best system for a particular use. The mix ratio for each curing agent and resin blend varies. For best results, carefully weigh the components. Polypoxy 1010 is a clear resin for use with fast Poly Cure 1212 for small castings such as bonded bronze or with fiberglass or fillers for lay-up and mother molds. Use with Poly Cure 1220 for decoupage clear coatings, glass bonding and many other uses where a nearly colorless, clear, low viscosity resin is required. Polypoxy 1030 is an aluminum- and mineral-filled resin for lay-up or small castings when cured with Poly Cure 1212. For larger vacuum forming molds and other tooling uses, cure with Poly Cure 1230. Parts made with Polypoxy 1030 can be machined, drilled and burnished with steel wool to a pewter finish. SURFACE PREPARATION: Polypoxy Resins are adhesives and bond to many surfaces. If adhesion is not desired, surfaces must be made non-porous with a suitable sealer, such as wax, PVA, lacquer or other coatings. The surfaces must then be coated with a release agent such as Pol-Ease 2300. Poly 74 Series rubber molds require only a light, thorough coating of Pol-Ease 2300 for excellent release of epoxy castings. Perform a small test cure. MIXING: Polypoxy and Poly Cure must be mixed in the ratios shown below. Mix ratios are by weight except for Polypoxy 1010 and Cure 1220, which can be mixed 1:1 by volume. Polypoxy and Cure must be thoroughly mixed and poured as soon as possible after mixing to ensure low viscosity and good flow. Watch a clock to avoid being caught with unused, cured material. HEAT RESISTANT CASTINGS: Polypoxy 1030 offers good heat resistance. Call Polytek for more information. CLEAN UP: See p. 47. SAFETY: Before use, read product labels and Material Safety Data Sheets. Follow safety precautions and directions. Poly Cure Hardeners cause severe eye and skin burns. Do not get in eyes or on skin. WARNING: The epoxy cure reaction is very exothermic (see p. 6). Do not cast large masses -- doing so can result in a fire!
APPLICATIONS
Polypoxy 1010 + Poly Cure 1212 Bonded bronze Polypoxy 1010 + Poly Cure 1220 Decoupage coatings and glass bonding Polypoxy 1030 + Poly Cure 1212 Small castings and tooling applications Polypoxy 1030 + Poly Cure 1230 Larger vacuum molds
PACKAGING
Product Polypoxy 1010 Unit Weight (lb) 2.0 9.0 45.0 3.0 12.0 60.0 0.25 2.0 0.25 2.0 8.0 40.0 0.25 2.0 8.0 Container 1 qt 1 gal 5 gal 1 qt 1 gal 5 gal 4 oz 1 qt 4 oz 1 qt 1 gal 6 gal 4 oz 1 qt 1 gal
Casting Plastics
Polypoxy 1030
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Polypoxy + Poly Cure Parts Cure per 100 of Polypoxy Mixed Viscosity(cP) Pour Time, 150 g mix @ 77F (min) Demold Time @ 77F (hr) Maximum Casting Thickness (in) Shore D Hardness Specific Gravity Specific Volume (in3/lb) Density (lb/in3) 1010 + 1212 15 3,000 25 48 0.5 95 1.13 24.5 0.0408 1010 + 1220 85 (1:1 by vol) 3,000 30 48 1.5 80 1.07 26.0 0.0386 1030 + 1212 6 10,000 30 24 3.0 98 1.70 16.3 0.0614 1030 + 1230 15 5,000 120 24 8.0 95 1.70 16.3 0.0614
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Speciality Materials
Poly Latex 60
DESCRIPTION: Poly Latex 60 is a one-part, brush-on liquid that, after multiple coats, builds up to form a tough rubber blanket mold. Use Poly Latex 60 molds for casting plaster, concrete and limited casting with some resins. Poly Latex 60 has better tear strength than synthetic rubbers and is sometimes preferred for molds that are peeled off the casting like a sock. However, two-part, synthetic rubbers like Polygel products can be brushed on to final thickness in an afternoon and should be considered as a latex alternative (see p. 36). MODEL PREPARATION: The model should be free of oil, grease and dirt. Wood, oil-based clay, stone and glazed ceramics generally do not require any sealer. Plaster, unglazed ceramics, copper containing metals, water clay and cement should be sealed with shellac. Models made of other materials should be patch tested by applying a coat or two of latex to a small area. If the latex turns dark or sticks after drying, a sealer should be applied. Models with sharp edges or points may yield a better mold if the points are dulled slightly by sanding prior to sealing. Firmly mount the model on a suitable base board (i.e., plywood or a sink cutout available from kitchen counter shops). Drill a hole through the base board to allow air to escape from within the model so that trapped air does not cause defects in the mold. APPLYING & CURING: Brush a thin coat of latex on the model. Be careful not to puddle the latex. A gentle stream of air can help to blow latex into the finest detail and break any bubbles. Let each coat dry for 4 to 16 hours in a warm, ventilated room. Drying time depends on temperature and humidity. Warm, dry air is necessary for fast drying. When dry, the latex loses its milky appearance, and becomes slightly transparent and amber in color. Apply the next coat as soon as the first coat is dry. Apply 6 to 30 coats depending on the desired mold thickness. Molds are typically 1/16- to 1/8-inch thick. For large, flat models, apply latex in a checkerboard pattern, alternating squares between coats. Since there is some shrinkage on drying, the patchwork method reduces stress and warping of the latex as it dries. Latex can be thickened with ground cork, sawdust or Cab-O-Sil in order to fill undercuts. Thickeners must be completely wet out with latex and applied to the outside surface of the mold. The thickened latex must be allowed to dry completely as wet spots trapped in the latex can cause delamination of the mold. If needed, reinforce latex molds by placing fabric (e.g., muslin, burlap, polyester) into a coat of wet latex and then saturate with latex. Allow the fabric coat to dry completely before applying more latex.
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FEATURES Brush-on liquid Great for casting highly ornamental plaster and concrete One part, no mixing or weighing needed Tougher than any other mold rubber
For spray application with a cup gun, mix 1 part Poly Latex 60 with 1 part Poly Latex N. Poly Latex N is available in the same package sizes as Poly Latex 60. Before removing from the model, the latex must be thoroughly dry or heat cured. Heat in a warm oven at 110-150F for 6 to 8 hours to ensure a complete cure. If heat curing is not feasible, place the mold in a warm area for a week to strengthen the rubber. Clean up wet latex with soap and water. Dried latex can be softened with waterless hand cleaner and washed away. USING THE MOLD: Avoid exposing the mold to oils, grease or solvents. Molds can be washed with soap and water. Before casting plaster or cement, wet the mold with a 1% solution of detergent in water to aid air bubble release from the mold surface. Usually, no other release is necessary. For resin casting, a release agent such as Pol-Ease 2300 or PVA is needed. Most resins shorten the life of a latex mold -- Polygel or Poly-Sil rubber molds may last longer. SAFETY: Before use, read product label and Material Safety Data Sheet. WARNING! Latex products contain ammonia and causes eye and skin irritation. Avoid skin and eye contact. Use with adequate ventilation. In case of contact, flush eyes with plenty of water for 15 minutes and seek medical attention. Remove from skin and clothing with soap and water. STORAGE LIFE: At least 3 months in unopened containers stored at room temperature (50-70F). Tightly reseal opened containers. As latex ages beyond 3 months, it will not cure to as supple a rubber and shrinkage on drying may increase and toughness of the mold will decrease. Exposure to temperatures below 40F and above 80F may damage latex, causing irreversible coagulation. DO NOT ALLOW TO FREEZE. PACKAGING
Unit Weight (lb) 2.0 8.0 40.0 400 Container 1 qt 1 gal 5 gal 55 gal
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Speciality Materials
Speciality Materials
FEATURES Easy one-part rubberno mixing or weighing Tougher than any other mold rubber Good reproduction of fine detail Forms hollow castings without roto-molding
absorbent and thicknesses build slower. Allow False Face to dry in the mold for 24 hours at room temperature. Elevated temperatures accelerate drying time. Clean up wet latex with soap and water. Dried latex can be softened with waterless hand cleaner and washed away. USING THE CASTING: Lightly dust the inside of the casting with talc in order to prevent the dry rubber from sticking to itself. Avoid exposing the casting to oils, greases or solvents. Castings should be stored out of direct sunlight. SAFETY & STORAGE: Same as Poly Latex 60 (see p. 57). PACKAGING
Unit Weight 2.0 8.0 40.0 Container 1 qt 1 gal 5 gal
Poly Wax 15
Speciality Materials DESCRIPTION: Poly Wax 15 is a white, hard, low shrinkage, mineral-filled wax, which can be cast and carved. When cast, it replicates the mold surface in detail and finish. Tool cuts are smooth and lustrous. Dull surfaces can be hand polished with a soft cloth to a satin luster. MELTING AND CASTING: Poly Wax 15 softens below 130F and is quite fluid at 160F. Viscosity decreases rapidly as temperature is increased. At 200F, components of the wax separate slightly. Mix the melted wax thoroughly before pouring. Complete mixing is quick and easy to determine visually -- mixed liquid wax is uniformly colored with no streaks. Use a nonporous, heat resistant stirrer such as a metal spatula. Pour temperatures are typically 210F-280F; however, the ideal temperature is dependent on the mold size, shape and material. Poly Wax 15 holds temperature for a long time, so large or multiple molds can be filled in a single pour. When slush molding, excessively high temperatures will cause remelting of layers already laid down and PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Softening point Use temperature Viscosity @ 100C (212F) @ 25C (77F) Density (in3/lb) @ 100C (212F) 126F 210 - 280F 116 cP 19.5 21.6
FEATURES Ideal for prototypes Cast carving blanks from rubber molds of rough originals Suitable for master models Smooth and lustrous surfaces significantly prolong the procedure. Casting temperatures that are too low will result in surface bubbles and knit marks because the wax solidifies too rapidly on the mold surface. Poly Wax 15 can be poured in Poly 74 Series, Poly-Fast 72-40, Poly-Sil, Polygel or Hydrogel molds. Latex will be softened by continual pours of Poly Wax 15. Most heat resistant resins and metal molds are also suitable; however, a small trial casting is always recommended to be sure castings release satisfactorily and do not damage the mold material. SAFETY: Before use, read product labels and Material Safety Safety Sheets. Hot wax can cause severe burns and ignites easily. Avoid skin contact. Do not heat with an open flame. Do not heat above 280F since vapors can ignite. STORAGE LIFE: At least 12 months from date of shipment. PACKAGING
Poly Wax 15 is available in 5-lb blocks (610)559-8620 (800)858-5990
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Speciality Materials
Poly Skin-Wax
DESCRIPTION: Poly Skin-Wax is a liquid at temperatures as low as 125F and it is somewhat elastic after solidifying. It can be applied to models using dip or brush-on techniques. Poly SkinWax has been formulated with non-toxic materials and is safe for skin contact provided temperature is carefully controlled. MODEL PREPARATION: When making a mold of a body part, coat skin and hair with baby oil before applying Skin-Wax. Molds can only be made of body parts that are covered with short and light hair -- do NOT attempt to make molds from hairy areas. For most other non-porous models, Poly Skin-Wax is self releasing and, therefore, no release agent is needed. Make a small test mold on a surface identical to the model to determine that release properties and hardening of Skin-Wax is suitable. PROCEDURE: Use a therapeutic paraffin bath, available from medical supply stores, to melt Poly Skin-Wax. A crock pot can be used to melt Skin-Wax; however, extreme caution must be exercised to ensure that the wax is not overheated. To melt Poly SkinWax, heat to 160-180F. Skin-Wax must be cooled to 125-135F before contact with skin! Even this temperature may cause discomfort in some individuals. Do not use Skin-Wax on sensitive areas such as the face. The wax must be just hot enough to produce good results; a few degrees hotter can cause considerable discomfort. Test judiciously on small areas. Stir Skin-Wax often during melting and use since temperature variations in an unstirred bath can result in solidified wax in one area of the bath while another area heats enough to cause burns. Monitor temperature in several places in the bath (i.e., near walls, center and at several depths). Use an accurate thermometer. Apply Skin-Wax by dipping the model, brushing on or slowly pouring over the model surface. For rapid cooling, immerse the wax-coated model in cool water between coats. Skin-Wax can be reinforced by laying fabric such as cheese cloth onto the previous coat and then applying wax to saturate the fabric. Although some flexibility remains in Poly Skin-Wax at room temperature, if flexibility is needed to remove the model, it is best to remove it as soon as the wax cools into the elastic (temporarily deformable) state. For model shapes that do not allow removal with the mold intact, the mold may be carefully cut and later rejoined using a warm metal spatula or by welding with molten wax. Small air vents punctured in the mold using a pin or wire may help release the mold from the model; for example, in casting a hand, pinholes at the end of each finger facilitate removal of the hand. Holes can be sealed later with a dab of molten wax. PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Softening Temperature Use Temperature Viscosity @ 180F Specific Volume (in /lb)
3
FEATURES Safe for skin contact One-part mold making compound No mixing -- simply melt and use Fast -- make a mold in 5 to 10 minutes Easily repaired with a dab of warm wax Flexible when warm Self releasing from most surfaces Reusable
SAFETY: Before use, read product labels and Material Safety Safety Sheets. Follow safety precautions and directions. Do not heat with open flame. Do not heat above 280F since vapors can ignite. Use with adequate ventilation. Do not use in the presence of sparks or open flame. Exercise extreme caution when applying Poly Skin-Wax to the skin. While Poly Skin-Wax is safe for skin contact, it is not recommended that repeated castings be made over a short period as the hot wax tends to remove skin oils and can cause irritation. For skin applications, avoid reusing wax that may have absorbed irritating substances from casting materials. STORAGE LIFE: At least 12 months from date of shipment. PACKAGING
Poly Skin-Wax is available in 5-lb blocks
The hand is dipped into melted Poly Skin-Wax (125F) then into cold water to harden the wax. Over the next few minutes the process is repeated 2 or 3 times to buildup mold thickness. After the wax is hardened, the mold is slipped off the hand and is ready for casting. Plaster, cement, rubber or plastic can be poured into the hand mold. Be careful not to use a casting material that generates significant heat upon cure. The wax is removed from the casting and can be melted for reuse. That casting is detailed -fingerprints and all!
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Speciality Materials
Speciality Materials
FEATURES Non-toxic-- Safe for body casts Easy to use: just add water and mix Good reproduction of fine detail Early strength for fast demold Variable working time Low cost
Hands up and on the table! With the use of HydrogelN, these children each made a plaster cast of their own hand at a Vacation Bible School craft session. Molds for 35 hands were made in less than 2 hours!
plaster shell is set, remove the Hydrogel N mold/plaster shell. For best dimensional stability, make a positive casting immediately. USING THE MOLD: Plaster or waxes below 212F may be poured in Hydrogel N molds. For best results use the mold when it is as fresh as possible, since Hydrogel N molds shrink as they dry. Molds can be kept useable in plastic bags or sealed containers for up to a few days. Molds should then be discarded SAFETY: Before use, read product label and Material Safety Data Sheet. Follow safety precautions and directions. Handle Hydrogel N carefully to avoid dust generation. Wear a dust mask. Avoid eye contact. Hydrogel N is not for human consumption or use against mucous membranes. Keep skin contact as brief as possible. Prior to placing Hydrogel N on hair, hair should be slicked down with petroleum jelly or cholesterol hair conditioning cream. STORAGE LIFE: At least six months in unopened containers. LIQUID RETARDER (OPTIONAL)
% Retarder in Water 0 3 6 9 Approximate Working Time 5 min 7 min 8 min 10 min
Speciality Materials
PACKAGING
Product Hydrogel N Hiram Ball, of Ball Consulting Ltd., demonstrates making a livebody mold using Hydrogel N. The safe-for-skin-contact alginate yields excellent mold impressions if wax or plaster is cast right after demolding.
Retarder Solution
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Accessories
MATERIALS
HEMP - Long, natural fiber that has been the traditional reinforcement for plaster mother molds. Available in convenient 10-lb bundles or economical ~40-lb bales. POLY FIBER II - Add to liquid rubbers to thicken for brush-on application or plastics for mold shells or layup castings. Add to resin (up to 5% total weight) to produce thin gels to thick pastes. (5-gal pail or 10 lb bag) TIETEX FABRIC Strong, conformable reinforcing fabric that wets out very well. Small pieces can be laminated in at the top of a seam in brushed or sprayed molds to prevent tearing. A sheet can be laid into the back of an open poured mold to increase durability. Use as bridging material for spanning undercuts in sprayed or brushed molds. 10-ft sheet (40-in wide) 324-ft roll (40-in wide) FIBERGLASS MAT - Non-woven, 1.5 oz per sq. ft., chopped strand mat for reinforcing Polytek resins. 3 square yards POLYPLASTICENE - Non-hardening, sulfur-free modeling clay. Non-toxic and odorless, with a smooth, firm consistency for sculpting. Also makes great reusable caulk for mold boxes. 1-lb block or 50-lb box. FUMED SILICA/CAB-O-SIL - Add to mixed liquid rubbers and plastics to make thicker and thixotropic mixes for brush-on application. 5-gal pail 10-lb bag Cab-O-Sil is a registered trademark of the Cabot Corp., Tuscola, IL BRONZE POWDER - Use with unfilled resins for "cold-cast bronze." One part bronze powder to one part EasyFlo (by volume) makes beautiful castings! 2-lb can 10-lb can 110-lb can POL-EASE MOLD RINSE - Liquid concentrate reduces surface air bubbles on plaster castings made in Polytek rubber molds. Dip or spray mold with 1 part Pol-Ease Mold Rinse diluted with 10 parts water. Molds should be wet when plaster is poured. 5 gal (40 lb) POL-EASE MOLD DRESSING - Protects and rejuvenates Poly Rubber molds that have been exposed to harsh conditions created by the use of solvents and petroleum oils contained in certain form releases and casting resins. 5 gal (40 lb) or 55 gal (450 lb). POLYCOLORS - NEW! Dyes for coloring Polyteks polyurethane rubbers and plastics. Available in red, blue, green, yellow, brown and black. 0.25-lb bottle or 1.0-lb bottle. UV ADDITIVE - For Improved Exterior Exposure - Thoroughly stir this liquid additive into polyurethane liquid rubber to improve exterior durability; greatly reducing characteristic surface degradation caused by sunlight or other UV light sources. Add 0.5% of the total weight of liquid mix prior to curing. 4-oz bottle or 1-pint bottle (1 lb). POTTERS SOAP - Use to seal plaster models. Plaster should be damp when soaped. Available as a concentrate from Crystal Inc, Philadelphia, PA, (215) 368-1661.
RELEASE AGENTS
POL-EASE 2300 RELEASE AGENT - A blend of silicone oils and resins in a convenient aerosol spray. Pol-Ease 2300 is an effective release for use with most Polytek products. Use a soft brush to distribute evenly. 12-oz can or Case of 12 cans POL-EASE 2500 RELEASE AGENT - An aerosol spray release agent that can be easily washed off cast parts for easy finishing. Spray a thin mist over mold surface, then brush gently for uniform coverage. 12-oz can or Case of 12 cans POL-EASE 2350 RELEASE AGENT - Mineral spirits solution for use with RTV liquid silicone rubbers. Can be brushed or sprayed. Use of a soft brush to spread the release agent evenly to improve results. 1 qt (1.5 lb) or 5 gal (26 lb) POL-EASE 2450 RELEASE AGENT - A fast drying, silicone-based release, which can be brushed or sprayed. Flammable! 1 qt (1.5 lb) or 5 gal (30 lb) POL-EASE 2601 RELEASE AGENT - Water-based emulsion of silicone oils and resins. Spray with the Sure Shot Mini Atomizer for an economical alternative to aerosol release agents. After spraying, distribute evenly with a soft brush. 1 qt, 5 gal (40 lb) or 55 gal (450 lb) POL-EASE 2650 RELEASE AGENT - A high performance, silicone-free, release agent for use in polyurethane molds when casting concrete or plaster. 1 qt (1.5 lb) or 5 gal (35 lb) POLY PVA SOLUTION - Water soluble coating for use as a barrier coat on certain rubber molds (i.e, Poly-Fast 72-40) to allow resins to cure without sticky surfaces. While Poly 74, 70 and 71 Series molds do not cause sticky surfaces on resin castings, PVA may be used as a barrier coat to prevent resin attack on the mold. Can be used as a removable sealer for porous surfaces alone or in conjunction with paste wax. The green film of PVA washes off with water. (Specify Clear or Green) 1 qt (2.0 lb) or 5 gal (35 lb) POLYCOAT - A semi-permanent sealer and release agent that can be sprayed or brushed onto a model when using liquid polyurethanes. In most cases no additional release is needed to demold the polyurethane rubber. 1 qt or 1 gal SURE SHOT MINI ATOMIZER -Use with PolEase 2601, 2350 and 2450 Release Agents. Mini Atomizer (7-oz capacity)
ADHESIVES
POLYPOXY QUICK STICK ADHESIVE - Two-part epoxy adhesive with a 1:1 mix ratio by weight or volume. Bonds quickly to most clean, dry surfaces. Sets in 3-5 minutes. 2-lb kit POLYBOND - A polyurethane adhesive thats great for repairing torn molds. PolyBond has 1A:3B mix ratio (by weight), a ~3 minute working time and a ~15 minute cure. 2-lb kit EPOXYBOND - A low viscosity, epoxy adhesive, which deeply penetrates porous surfaces creating an excellent bond. It has an easy 1A:1B mix ratio (by volume), a long working time (120 min.), and overnight cure. 2-lb kit
www.polytek.com
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MIXING EQUIPMENT
POLY PADDLE The 16-inch Poly Paddle allows complete mixing of material by thoroughly scraping the sides and bottom of rounded or straight sided mixing containers. SPATULAS Top quality, all purpose spatula with a comfortable, cushion-grip, vinyl handle is unbreakable, and heat and chemical resistant. The stainless steel blade is semi-flexible for durability and easy mixing. The mirror finish wipes clean easily. Available in two sizes for most small mixing needs. 4-in Blade Spatula 6-in Blade Spatula JIFFY MIXERS Heavy-duty, efficient, commercial mixer, specially designed for tough-to-mix, viscous materials. Mixes quickly and thoroughly without splashing or whipping air into the mix. The patented protective-ring design prevents puncture or damage to the mixing container. Made entirely of stainless steel 304 for maximum durability. Jiffy mixers fit all - to -inch chucked power tools. Tools with 450-700 rpm give the best mixing results. Jiffy Mixer, 1 gal Jiffy Mixer, 5 gal TURBO MIXERS Ingenious, patented, high efficiency mixers fit any power drill with -inch chuck and mix more efficiently than a Jiffy Mixer. Must be kept free of built up material. Its worth the price! Turbo Mixer, -gal Turbo Mixer, 1-2 gal Turbo Mixer, 3-10 gal Turbo Mixer, 11-55 gal TONGUE DEPRESSORS - Made of straight-grained white birch for consistent quality. Convenient, low cost mixing tools for test cures or small quantity mixes. 6-in length, box of 500
BRUSHES
ACID BRUSHES - Tinhandle, disposable -inch wide brushes with 100% horsehair bristles. Excellent for making small brush-on molds. Bundle of 30 or Box of 1 gross (144) CHINA BRISTLE BRUSHES - Wooden handle chip brushes. 100% China Bristle available in 1inch and 2- inch width. Use to apply brush-on molds or release agent. 1-in Brush, bundle of 10; or 2-in Brush, bundle of 10
SAFETY
NITRILE GLOVES Disposable, powder-free, 4mil nitrile gloves offer comfort, dexterity and a broad range of chemical resistance. These gloves offer protection against intermittent contact with nearly all Polytek products. Contain no natural rubber proteins. 100 per box, Size L SAFETY GLASSES - With a sleek wrap-around polycarbonate lens, Uvex Bandido safety glass offers excellent eye protection, comfort and sporty styling. Meets ANSI Z87.1-1989 Standard. Made in USA. 1 pair (one size) PROTECTIVE COVERALL Kappler NexGen coveralls are made of a micro-porous fabric that is aerosol and liquid proof. Disposable, but durable enough to be reworn. Large size and light weight allows mobility. The perfect cover-up for quick, dirty jobs. Coverall, Size L SOLVENT DISPENSING CAN - Plunger can for dispensing flammable liquid features brass flame arrestor screens and pump assembly. Simply press a cloth or wiper on the plunger to moisten. Two-quart capacity.
MOLD BOX
MOLD BOX Adjustable to any size up to 24-in x 24-in x 6-in. The base is smooth, plastic faced particle board. This mold box provides a quick way to pour a rubber mold. (C-clamps not included.)
MOLD-KEY KNIFE
MOLD-KEY KNIFE - NEW! Use this unique notched knife to cut tongue-and-groove seams in molds. Makes proper mold registration easy.
Accessories
Although we dont offer a full line of safety supplies, well help you get what you need to work safely! Call Polytek and ask for our safety specialist.
PAILS/OPENER
PAILS FOR MIXING - High density polyethylene pails with handles, both 1-gal and 5-gal sizes are now available in cartons. These are the same pails that Polytek uses for its products. They are excellent for mixing Parts A & B and often the cured residue can be stripped out, leaving a clean pail ready for reuse. Lids can be ordered separately. 1-gal Pails (Box of 10) 5-gal Pails (Box of 5) PAIL OPENER - Pail Pal pail opener designed to open and close most plastic pails with ease. Constructed of rugged cast aluminum. (610)559-8620 (800)858-5990
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SCALES
OHAUS CS-2000 PORTABLE SCALE - The ideal scale for users who need a scale in a variety of locations during the work day. Battery operated with an automatic shut-off switch. The CS-2000 has a capacity of 2000 grams (~5 lb) and readability to 1 gram. The digital display reads in grams or pounds and ounces. The scale offers simple operation with a full capacity tare. The CS2000 has an easy-to-clean weighing surface. The AC adapter is sold separately. OHAUS ES50R ELECTRONIC BENCH SCALE This all-purpose, rugged bench scale is equipped with a large, stainless steel weighing pan to withstand heavy industrial use. The ES50R has a 110-lb capacity, a digital display readable to 0.05 lb and a full capacity tare. Can be used with the AC adapter (included) or batteries for portability. An automatic shut-off circuit extends battery life. OHAUS 760-00 TRIPLE-BEAM BALANCE Quality, mechanical balance with readability to 0.1 gram and weighing capacity to 2610 grams (5+ lb) makes this balance more than adequate for weighing small quantities. Weight set included.
DVDS/VIDEOS
Polytek offers DVDs and video tapes to help customers better understand mold making materials and processes. POLYTEK MOLDMAKING DVD Watch step-by-step demonstrations showing how to make a poured block mold; brushed blanket mold with plastic shell; and a poured blanket mold with a plastic shell. See how to use Polytek polyurethane and silicone rubbers and plastics. Only $5.95! POLYTEK BODY CASTING AND SPECIAL EFFECTS SEMINAR/WORKSHOP Body & Face Casting with Hydrogel Alginate, 115 min. BALL CONSULTING LTD. MOLD MAKING AND CASTING A practical how-to video showing the making of a poured mold, a brush-on mold and a poured blanket mold. Casting of Forton MG with a metal powder filled face mix and a glass fiber reinforce back-up. Covers patinas and other finishing techniques. Use of Forton MG to spray-up a large, rigid column mold and rigid carrier molds also shown. Approx. 40-min. SUCCESS WITH FULL BODY MOLDS AND FORTON CASTINGS The definitive video on full-body molding. This Mark Prent video also includes useful information on casting with Forton MG. Approx. 70 min. BETTER ONE-PIECE HEAD MOLDS FROM LIFE Master sculptor Mark Prent takes you step-bystep through every detail of using alginate mold compounds to make head molds of live models (i.e., Hydrogel N). Approx. 75 min. THE USERS GUIDE TO REDUCIT RUBBER MOLDS, AND INNOVATIVE PLASTIC SUPPORT STRUCTURES Mark Prent uses Polytek Mold Rubbers and alginate compounds to reduce a life size sculpture to -scale in two steps. This video offers the solution to an age old problem while maintaining every detail of the original. Approx. 60 min.
BOOKS
METHODS FOR MODERN SCULPTORS By Ronald D. Young & Robert A. Fennell Published in 1980, this is still one of the best general texts on the subject, including a very good chapter on mold making. (292 pp)
POLYTEK CURED SAMPLE STRIPS Two pages of cured sample strips of most Polytek rubbers and resins in a 3-ring binder. A handy reference when selecting a material for a particular job.
ROTATIONAL CASTING
Rotational casting involves rotating a closed mold while a liquid casting material flows over the inner surface of the mold. The liquid clings to the mold surface just enough to create a thin layer of cured material, which creates a hollow casting. Rotational casting is an efficient method of creating large, lightweight pieces such as mannequins and figurines. Fast-setting liquids are used so that pieces can be produced with short cycle times. The 2 machines pictured below are at our PA facility and are available for demos and test runs.
OTHER ACCESSORIES
POLY PURGE DRY GAS BLANKET - Blast Poly Purge into an open container just before resealing the lid to displace moist air and extend the life of polyurethane liquids. Poly Purge is heavier than air and is non-flammable and non-ozone depleting. It is packaged in an aerosol can with a special nozzle extension useful for directing the gas into the desired space. 10-oz can or Case of 12 cans www.polytek.com
Small machines cost ~$5,000 and can support mold loads of ~ 200 lb. Table-top versions are available. Large machines can carry many molds and cost ~ $12,000.
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POLYGEL SPRAYER
Drierite Cartridge
Drum Deheader
Meters, mixes and sprays select Polygel rubbers and plastics. Makes superior quality molds and shells much faster than hand application using self thickening Polygel rubbers and plastics.
Meter mix and dispensing equipment automatically measures, mixes, pumps or sprays Polytek liquid rubbers and plastics. For recommendations on this type of equipment, call Polytek Customer Service at 800-858-5990.
Hand Truck
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Pallet Truck
For larger volume applications, Polytek products can be purchased in totes. Polytek also offers accessories for handling and dispensing products from totes. Call Polytek for details.
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(610)559-8620 (800)858-5990
Accessories
GLOSSARY
Blanket Mold: A thin blanket-like rubber mold, usually - to -inch thick. A rigid shell (mother mold) is required to hold the floppy blanket mold in perfect shape. Chasing: The process of cleaning unwanted material (flashing) from a casting. Flashing: 1. Unwanted fin-like projections of casting materials that have flowed into mold vents and parting lines. 2. Thin aluminum sheet used to divide mold sections. Inhibition: Failure of a compound to cure against a surface within the recommended cure time. The surface in contact with the pattern remains gummy or uncured. Inhibition is most likely to occur in addition-cure (PlatSil) silicone systems. Keys: Tongue-and-groove, or button-like impressions to align mold or shell sections. Mother Mold (Mold Shell): The rigid shell over a flexible mold that holds the flexible mold in the desired configuration. Model: The original shape over which a mold is made. Parting Line: The line where sections of a mold or mold shell divide. Release Agent: A coating applied to prevent liquid rubbers and resins from sticking to surfaces. Resin: A liquid that can be cured to a solid plastic. RTV: Room temperature vulcanizing. Shims: thin strips of material used to form parting lines. Undercuts: A configuration such as an overhang between two mated surfaces, such as a mold and model, that tends to prevent them from separating when pulled apart. Flexible mold materials allow molds to be made with limited undercuts because the flexible mold material bends as the part is demolded. Accessories 65
TRADEMARKS
Polytek, Polygel, Polypoxy, Poly-Optic, Poly-Sil, FormRub, Hydrogel, PlatSil, TinSil and Pol-Ease are registered trademarks of Polytek Development Corp., Easton, PA 18042 USA. Registration is pending for EasyFlo, PolyFoam, Poly LiteCast, EpoxyBond, Poly Purge and PolyBond. Cab-O-Sil, Tietex and Forton are marks of their respective manufacturers.
www.polytek.com
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Polytek offers many accessories so you can obtain all your mold-making supplies from a single source! Pol-Ease Release Agents - Aerosol Pol-Ease 2300 & 2500 and waterbased Pol-Ease 2601 allow for easy release of rubbers from models and resins from molds. Pol-Ease 2650 is best for high volume concrete and plaster applications. Poly Adhesives & Bonding Agents - PolyBond is a flexible, high performance, polyurethane adhesive for many applications. EpoxyBond & Quick Stick are epoxy systems for similar rigid bonding applications. PolyFiber, Bronze and Other Fillers Safety Equipment - Polytek sells gloves, coveralls, solvent cans and more. Work safe! Mixers, Scales, Books and Videos & Other Equipment Our latest training DVD demonstrates various mold making techniques and is only $5.95! Polytek can suggest rotocast machines and meter-mix pumps/sprayers to dispense liquid rubbers & plastics to meet your particular requirements. Please call to let us help!