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11/11/2010

How to make perfect scrambled eggs |

How to make perfect scrambled eggs


Scrambled eggs are the king of the breakfast table. What's your method for attaining eggy perfection?

Perfect scram bled eggs. Photograph: Felicity Cloake

How would you like your eggs? What a question. The eternal struggle between what I want a creamy pile of golden deliciousness and what I suspect I'll get a pallid, quivering mess sucks me in every single time I treat myself to breakfast out. Wimpishly, I generally end up ordering fried instead or, if I'm feeling particularly brave, poached, because nothing brings on a hangover quicker than bad scrambled eggs. Equally, not much beats the lazy, luxurious pleasure of well-cooked ones and, unless you breakfast regularly in smart hotels, they're something best left to slow weekend mornings at home.

Classic eggs
Delia, the queen of eggs, having taught the nation once and for all how to boil them, seems a good place to start. In her Complete Cookery Course, she admits to being a "disciple of Escoffier" on the subject of scrambling, which sounds an uncharacteristically Francophile admission from our homely domestic goddess, but I'm willing to give the good monsieur's method a try on her recommendation.

Delia scrambled eggs. Photograph: Felicity Cloake I heat a "walnut of butter" in a "small solid saucepan over a gentle heat" and whisk two large eggs together with a pinch of salt and pepper. Once the butter is foaming

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("whatever you do, don't let it brown" cautions Delia) I pour in the eggs and "stir like mad" with a wooden spoon. When the eggs are almost, but not completely set I take the pan off the heat and add another knob of butter, "which will melt into it as it finishes cooking in the heat of the pan". The results are pleasing: a deep yellow colour, with a rich, buttery flavour, although I like my eggs slightly creamier in texture. Textbook eggs, but not quite velvety enough for my tastes.

Gordon

Gordon Ramsay scrambled eggs. Photograph: Felicity Cloake If anyone knows about poshing up scrambled eggs, it's a Michelin-starred chef, so I turn to Gordon Ramsay for advice. His method is quite different from Delia's I break the eggs into a cold pan over a very low heat, and add the butter, stirring the eggs frequently until they begin to set; a good six or seven minutes. In goes another knob of butter, there's more stirring (Gordon likens the process to making a risotto), and then, just before they're completely set, I take the pan off the heat and stir in a teaspoon of crme frache and season. The whole process has taken over 10 minutes, but the eggs are wonderfully rich and creamy; in fact, they're a little too smooth. Egg sauce doesn't have quite the right texture, however wonderful the flavour.

Bill
The best scrambled eggs in the world are popularly supposed to be served by sunnyfaced Australian chef Bill Granger, dubbed by no lesser authority than the New York Times, "the egg master of Sydney". They are, apparently, "divinely creamy" but also "as light as the breath of an angel". This, I have to try. I heat the "merest sliver" of butter in a non-stick pan over a high heat, and whisk together two eggs, a pinch of salt, and 6 tbsp single cream. After about a minute, I pour in the eggs, and leave them for 20 seconds, my hands twitching on the wooden spoon, then stir them very slowly, gently pushing the sides in to the centre of the pan: Bill tells me to think of them as "folded rather than scrambled eggs". They're allowed to cook unmolested for another 10 seconds, before I then dive in again with the spoon, and so on, until they're just set, with big, soft curds. Thanks to all that cream, the eggs are pale, and I regret to admit I'm disappointed by them; they're heinously rich, without tasting of much but cream, and I find their famous lightness of texture more akin to an egg mousse than anything I'd trust myself with when I was feeling a bit delicate. Maybe things just taste better in the sunshine.

Slow food
I forget where, but I once read that the scrambled eggs should be cooked so slowly and gently that, for optimum results, a candle would be the ideal heat source. I haven't got the strength of will or arm to stir a pan over a tealight for an hour, but the idea intrigues me, and I decide to try scrambling my eggs in a bowl over a pan of simmering water (as apparently favoured by "the French" according to one online sage). This takes bloody ages don't bother putting the toast on for at least quarter of an hour and the results

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resemble something you might step over outside Wetherspoons after a heavy Friday night. The taste is good, but no better than Gordon Ramsay's, and soured slightly for me by the extra washing up.

Poached

Poached scrambled eggs. Photograph: Felicity Cloake San Francisco chef Daniel Patterson popped up in the New York Times a few years ago excitedly proclaiming he'd discovered a new way of scrambling eggs, after his environmental-lawyer fiance banished Teflon-coated pans from the kitchen, and he got sick of scraping egg from the new cast-iron set. He decided to whisk them together, and then poach them as one would a whole egg: "I expected that they would act much as the intact eggs did and bind quickly, but I did not expect them to set into the lightest, most delicate scrambled eggs imaginable," he exclaims breathlessly in the article. I'm suspicious how can eggs cooked without fat of any kind redeem themselves into a decent breakfast? but I give it a try nevertheless, sieving my eggs, as recommended by Daniel's friend Harold McGee, in order to get rid of the wateriest bit of the whites, given they're not fresh from the farm, beating them together, and then pouring them into a whirlpool in a pan of simmering water. I then cover the pan, count to 20, take a deep breath, and drain them into a sieve. The stuff is distressing to the eye; a weird, scrunched up mass of egg which, even when patted dry with kitchen paper and seasoned with copious amounts of melted butter and sea salt, is barely recognisable as the same foodstuff as I've been cooking all week. One for health fiends only.

Fine tuning
I find a video of Gordon Ramsay scrambling eggs online, in which he claims that whisking them beforehand is bad (something I'm happy to take on trust, given stirring them together in the pan saves on washing up), and adding salt before cooking "breaks down the eggs, turning them into something very watery". As I don't find retrospective seasoning entirely satisfactory (the salt doesn't seem to blend as well somehow, and I end up adding far more to compensate), I test this, and can detect no difference between the eggs salted during cooking, and those salted afterwards, except the first ones taste slightly better. Perhaps I'm imagining it, but I decide to ignore Mr Ramsay on this one. I also experiment with different fats: just butter, a la Delia, isn't creamy enough, but both milk and cream leave the eggs slightly loose and watery. Reluctantly, I concede that Gordon's fancy crme frache gives the best results; thick, rich, and ever-so-slightly tangy. In a rare concession to health, I deem the second lot of butter unnecessary. I'm still not happy with the final texture of Ramsay's recipe though, so, taking a leaf from Bill Granger's book, I turn up the heat and, after mixing the eggs together in the pan, leave them for a few seconds, then begin to stir, then leave them, and so on. This gives larger curds, which work perfectly with the creamy richness of the eggs. Great scrambled eggs require a generous hand with the fat, and single-minded devotion to stirring and watching leave them alone for a second, and they'll overcook. Get someone else to make the toast.

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Perfect scrambled eggs


Perfect scrambled eggs

Perfect scrambled eggs. Photograph: Felicity Cloake Serves 1 2 large free-range eggs Knob of butter Pinch of salt 1 tsp crme frache 1. Break the eggs into a small, heavy-based frying pan or saucepan and add the butter and salt. Place over a medium-high heat, and stir the eggs together with a wooden spoon. 2. Once well-combined, leave the eggs for 10 seconds, and then stir again. If they're setting too quickly, take them off the heat to stir and then replace. Repeat until they begin to set, and then stir continuously until they're nearly as cooked as you like them; always take them off the heat before they're done. 3. Whip the pan off the heat, stir in the crme frache, and serve immediately. Are scrambled eggs the king of the breakfast table, and if so, is this the best way to cook them? When bacon and black pudding just doesn't appeal, Huevos a la Mexicana, with tomatoes, chillies and coriander is my favourite variation what's yours? Previous Blog home

Comments in chronological order (Total 191 comments)


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Rainbowmomerath
11 November 2010 7:23AM The Delia ones look the best out of that lot. My way: break two large eggs into a jug or cup, whisk together, add a splash of milk, salt and coarse ground black pepper. Heat a knob of butter in a saucepan until it's just starting to bubble, then add the egg mixture and stir gently until they're done how you like them. Two slices of buttered brown toast is mandatory.

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A cafe down the road from me does a few different types of scrambled eggs, including one with chilli flakes and one with red onion & Gruyre - lovely. Recommend? (34) Report abuse
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wishfulfilment
11 November 2010 7:44AM Let's have no whisking - too airy. Or rushing - it's not 'scramble' as in dash to the cockpit of the Spitfire. For me it's a question of stirring together the eggs, a splash of milk and seasoning then starting them off on a medium heat. Stir slowly if you want creamy, leaving them for a bit and then folding over if you want them firmer, take them off just before you think they're ready, and wait a few seconds before sliding them onto the toast. Chives? Always. Smoked Salmon: nein danke. Microwave? No no no. Elizabeth David has a glorious recipe for Piperade in which you cook the onions & pepper very slowly in a cast iron pan, then turn off the heat, stir in the eggs and let the remaining heat cook the eggs. That's the perfect one. Recommend? (10) Report abuse
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sparclear
11 November 2010 8:10AM Rather a lot of butter and rather a small amount of milk Three eggs for two people, blended to a consistent colour with a fork Fresh garlic chives and sprig of thyme, chopped very fine Non-stick saucepan, almost imperceptible gas flame, favourite tiny woden spoon Toast and pot of tea at the ready Heaven Recommend? (19) Report abuse
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davidabsalom
11 November 2010 8:25AM Delia's method is good, but you don't have to go mental with the stirring. Just be systematic about pulling the set egg off the bottom and out of the corners of the pan. Recommend? (17) Report abuse
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ThymeSupperclub
11 November 2010 8:27AM My method is almost exactly the same as Felicity's except that I add the creme fraiche at the beginning of cooking, not the end.

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My favourite flavour: a few thyme leaves in with the eggs at the start, prosciutto and a little finely grated parmesan stirred in at the end. Huevos a la Mexicana is definitely a kill or cure approach to a hangover - they're very fine, but there's nothing gentle about them. Recommend? (3) Report abuse
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besidethesea
11 November 2010 8:32AM I couldn't eat the eggs in the Felicity Cloake picture, they are too soft and runny for me. I like my scrambled egg well cooked and knobbly. Eggs, mixed with a small dash of milk, salt and pepper, little knob of butter, then cooked until completely set. Served with, not on, lavishly buttered toast and a large mug of tea. I don't imagine many chefs would think my version acceptable, but hey, that's the way I like them and that's all that counts. :-) Recommend? (74) Report abuse
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niallrb
11 November 2010 8:36AM 3 eggs for two people? bit mean, no? i usually do 2 whole eggs and one yolk for myself. the extra yolk makes it a really satisfying deep yellow and the extra fat content make it lovely and rich so you just need to add a bit of extra butter. then you heat on the lowest heat you can get on your cooker and stir. i learned this recipe on cif last time this subject came up. Recommend? (9) Report abuse
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ilikejazz
11 November 2010 8:41AM So you've not tried the microwaved option then? Recommend? (14) Report abuse
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InertiaticESP
11 November 2010 8:45AM The best way i've found to make egg's scramble is to chase them with a chainsaw. Recommend? (24)

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djhworld
11 November 2010 8:53AM The tip to make the best scrambled eggs are largely irrelevant, anyone can make scrambled eggs What you should be talking about is easier ways to clean the pan after making the bloody stuff Recommend? (111) Report abuse
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StrokerAce
11 November 2010 8:56AM No milk, lots of butter and some salt and pepper for me. Serve with toast, sausage, bacon, black pudding, kidneys, fried mushrooms, fried tomato, a pint mug of sweet tea. Recommend? (19) Report abuse
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ausmint
11 November 2010 8:56AM I use Gordon's method, and like you, found at first they were too creamy. So I turned the heat higher and stirred them less, so they set in bigger chunks. Recommend? (1) Report abuse
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ausmint
11 November 2010 8:59AM I must also say that scrambled eggs on buttered toast made from really good bread are my favourite food. Recommend? (3) Report abuse
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buntyman
11 November 2010 9:00AM no milk and no butter use a dash of walnut oil and they still end up being deliciously creamy throw in a handful of chopped spring onions about 40 seconds before they're done the bestest!

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conjugatetheverb
11 November 2010 9:02AM Butter, crme frache..whatever....just never let the blighters sit still....that's the trick. Recommend? (6) Report abuse
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tattas
11 November 2010 9:02AM Put a sliver of butter in a hot frying pan. Crack the eggs inside as you would when making fried eggs, but just as the whites start to turn from transparent get scrambling! Take off the heat and let them cook slowly in the warmth of the pan. Add salt and pepper and a touch of sour cream. Serve on thick toast with avocado slices and a touch of cajun spice sprinkled on top..... or just with toast, its all good! Alternatively add a wee bit of chilli whilst cooking, then serve on warmed tortillas with guacamole - I can guarantee it will stop any hangover in its tracks! Mmmmm scrambled eggs - food of the gods :) Recommend? (4) Report abuse
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screamingmonkey
11 November 2010 9:03AM please tell me you spread these tests over more than one day. the idea of cooking (let alone eating or tasting) that many eggs in one day is turning me green Recommend? (4) Report abuse
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InvisibleDirigible
11 November 2010 9:04AM Two eggs per person, milk, healthy amount of butter, salt and a shed load of pepper. Nothing else. No chives. No spring onions. Nothing. Finding that lovely half way house between soft and squelchy. Mmmm. Lots of butter on the toast too. Recommend? (9) Report abuse
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sansucre
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The eggs pictured look far too liquidy and loose for my tastes. And am not sure about the addition of creme fraiche either, I always thought scrambled eggs were exactly that. 2 organic medium eggs (I've stopped using large eggs since reading that laying them hurts the chickens involved ) two knobs of butter, salt and pepper. In a small milk pan melt half the butter and when bubbling add beaten eggs and the rest of the butter, leave for a minute or until it looks slightly set, season, then scramble with fork and serve when set but still wobbly. Recommend? (21) Report abuse
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hojo
11 November 2010 9:05AM I tend towards Delia, but stir a la Bill Granger and add a drop of cream/milk to lengthen it out. It seems to give the same results as Bill's. However, the king of the breakfast table has to be poached eggs, not scrambled. Mmmm, tea tonight! Recommend? (2) Report abuse
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ButterflyBlu
11 November 2010 9:06AM God I love eggs! Lightly whisk 3 eggs (no milk!) and salt and pepper. Lots of butter in pan. Medium heat. Add eggs leave for about 30 seconds, then gently stir now and again until you get the effect you want. Only cook until just set and they keep on cooking even with the heat off. Sometimes I sprinkle some Guyere cheese if I have any. Serve with toast or whatever you fancy. Recommend? (4) Report abuse
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InvisibleDirigible
11 November 2010 9:06AM The picture of eggs you've got on the top looks like dogs diarhea (yes I can't spell it). Yuck. Recommend? (33) Report abuse
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babytiger
11 November 2010 9:06AM Two or three eggs (for two peeps) with a bit of tarragon, some pepper and half a glass of

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milk. Beat for a bit, stick in a pan with some marge or butter (actually doesn't matter which, much), cook for five minutes with occasional beating, stick on toast, eat. Bosh. And very, very tasty. The secret is the tarragon. Recommend? (2) Report abuse
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Lloyd23
11 November 2010 9:07AM All that butter makes for rich and golden scrambles, but since I developed a lactose intolerance olive oil does just as well ... slow and just underdone is perfect. Oh, and freerange eggs straight from the farm help too. Recommend? (3) Report abuse
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JohnnyVodka
11 November 2010 9:09AM It's not hard. Just eggs, milk and seasoning into a pan of melted butter. It's really about getting the right texture (I like mine a bit lumpy rather than too fine, so never use a whisk) and taking them off the heat at the right time. Recommend? (5) Report abuse
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treefrogdemon
11 November 2010 9:11AM Well, those eggs in the picture are far too runny for me, for a start. Recommend? (15) Report abuse
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CDids
11 November 2010 9:11AM What about the Marmite on the toast? Recommend? (14) Report abuse
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FiveEachForFighting
11 November 2010 9:12AM Whoa! Way too sloppy. Recommend? (18) Report abuse

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MrEurope
11 November 2010 9:13AM The most important thing is that the egg-white is solid and NOT runny. Nothing quite as unpleasant as a snot-like blog of semi-transparent eggwhite goo to put you off eating the rest.... Recommend? (14) Report abuse
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Iagomaus
11 November 2010 9:14AM Nigel Slater's scrambled eggs with cheese and herbs in his "Real Fast Food" book are a revelation. It never ceases to amaze me how something simple can be so good. Recommend? (5) Report abuse
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Rabbitinthehat
11 November 2010 9:14AM http://www.tjbd.co.uk/content/food/scrambled-eggs-james-bond.htm Scrambled eggs a la James Bond/Ian Fleming... very good indeed Recommend? (2) Report abuse
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PhilippaB
11 November 2010 9:15AM I'm with Delia, but use two whole eggs plus an extra yolk for added sunny-yellowness, and don't put in more butter at the end, as this can render things a bit greasy. lovely on wholemeal toast with a side of chopped tomatoes with a bit of mango chutney. hungry now. bah. Recommend? (4) Report abuse
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Ell0
11 November 2010 9:17AM At the moment, I'm making sweet scarmbled eggs - two eggs and half a teaspoon of sugar, whisked, whilst a teaspoon of coconut oil melts in a medium-to-large frying pan. When the oil has melted and is moderately hot, add the eggs and stir/scrape rapidly with

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a large flat spatula. Remove from the pan when the eggs have a discernable structure yet slightly runny and served with generously buttered toast. Recommend? (0) Report abuse
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mezbrighton
11 November 2010 9:17AM I've been using Delia's version since it was first broadcast in '95 or so - delicious and unctuous. When I was going through a health-concious phase, I used skimmed milk instead of butter, and finished off with half-fat creme fraich; lovely, but slightly tart. Incredibly pale, too. I used to hate the microwave method HOWEVER, am needing to shift some hefty poundage at the moment, so this version is helping me do that: 1 egg + 3 -4tbs liquid egg white OR 2 whole eggs pinch sea salt, WHITE pepper (white pepper works better than black in eggs and potatoes imho) Whisk together in a small bowl Microwave for 30 secs Stir/whisk again Microwave another 30 secs The important thing is to make sure the eggs haven't completely cooked and are dry make sure there is some moistness left. Surprisingly creamy and rich, with no added fat. I have it for lunch, on a slice of toasted wholemeal and have lost 11kg since October. Recommend? (2) Report abuse
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TarzanofNazareth
11 November 2010 9:18AM min 2 egss per person. splash o milk and grinds o salt black pepper. whisk. hearty knob o butter to foam. lower the heat and pour in the mixture. let it almost set before then stiring, kind of like the afore mentioned folding method. bigger pieces of egg. and do not let them dry out.... Recommend? (0) Report abuse
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ophiochos
11 November 2010 9:19AM Trust me, spend an hour cooking them and you won't regret it. And put in implausible amounts of pepper. Heat the pan, sliver of butter, put them in, turn heat on and off, stir. 45 minutes is a good time for it. Never got round to the candle version but it'll be about right. Recommend? (0) Report abuse

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meepmeep
11 November 2010 9:19AM Put eggs in saucepan over heat. Scramble. I honestly didn't realise there could be anything more to it. Recommend? (14) Report abuse
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WolfieKate
11 November 2010 9:21AM Yup the main picture looks like sick. The eggs should be firm and fluffy not loose and vomitty. Recommend? (19) Report abuse
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mestizo
11 November 2010 9:22AM I've been doing them 'Ramsey style' for a few years now with excellent results. I like the idea of a brief fix of heat at the start to form 'bits' though, so I'll add that to my method. People: Adding milk is just for bulk when you don't have enough eggs! Recommend? (3) Report abuse
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walnut
11 November 2010 9:23AM Oddly enough, I was reading some Ian Fleming on the bus into work and ran across this: --SCRAMBLED EGGS 'JAMES BOND'. For FOUR individualists: 12 fresh eggs Salt and pepper 5-6 oz. of fresh butter Break the eggs into a bowl. Beat thoroughly with a fork and season well. IN a small copper (or heavy-bottomed saucepan) melt four oz. of the butter. When melted, pour in the eggs and cook over a very low heat, whisking continuously with a small egg whisk. While the eggs are slightly more moist than you would wish for eating, remove pan from heat, add rest of butter and continue whisking for half a minute, adding the while finely chopped chives or fine herbs. Serve on hot buttered toast in individual copper dishes (for appearance only) with pink champagne (Tattinger) and low music. --Must give it a go... The pink champagne, I mean.... Recommend? (3)

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symball
11 November 2010 9:25AM (I've stopped using large eggs since reading that laying them hurts the chickens involved ) Large eggs just come from larger chickens- usually the dominant one (who gets irst dibs on the feed bowl. Nothing to worry about- as long as they are free range. Recommend? (3) Report abuse
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shostakovich
11 November 2010 9:25AM I love Gordon's method. Very easy an never goes wrong. If you find it too watery keep it a few seconds longer in the pan. Great with fresh garden herbs. mmmh Recommend? (0) Report abuse
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IWasThere
11 November 2010 9:25AM Melt big knob butter in non stick pan. Just when it's starting to bubble crack in 2 medium eggs and add one egg yolk. Whether the yolks break or not doesn't matter, but leave everything alone until the whites are half cooked. Grind in some black pepper, add salt, then stir to break up the yolks. Serve when it's about to reach your preferred consistency - don't forget it will continue cooking while it cools down. Apply to face. Recommend? (0) Report abuse
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WelshPaul
11 November 2010 9:26AM Not to be contrary but black pudding is the king of the breakfast table. No black pudding = no full English. Recommend? (4) Report abuse
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ExPatJon
11 November 2010 9:27AM I'm sure I remember a Nigel Slater one with anchovies and Parmesan, which was

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sorted. Recommend? (1) Report abuse
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scrummy. Never tried it with creme fraiche, but it sounds like a good idea so that's lunch

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ado16
11 November 2010 9:28AM Looks like different types of Cat sick! Recommend? (7) Report abuse
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redmullet
11 November 2010 9:28AM A revuelto is a common way of cooking eggs in Spain and is often used as a first course. It involves using a base of vegetables, in my case usually freshly steamed chopped up asparagus lightly fried with a small amount of Spanish black pudding to add flavor, to which you add a couple of well whisk and seasoned eggs. Do not overcook the eggs , they should be a bit liquid, in fact I normally get the pan with the asparagus really hot and then turn of the gas off before throwing in the eggs and just let them cook by absorbing the heat from the pan and its contents. Serve immediately. At this time off year there are a lot of wild mushrooms to be had in the market which fried with a bit garlic make a really tasty revuelto as well. Recommend? (1) Report abuse
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Jadabh
11 November 2010 9:28AM Coat the toast in a wafer-thin layer of mature cheddar and top the eggs with green pesto :) LAvely Recommend? (2) Report abuse
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foxette
11 November 2010 9:29AM Wasn't there a virtually identical article and comments posted a couple of months ago?? Obviously an inspirational discussion... Recommend? (0) Report abuse
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velocirapt0r
11 November 2010 9:29AM (I've stopped using large eggs since reading that laying them hurts the chickens involved ) Also I think chicken have not much choice of their egg size. Nature is cruel. Honestly. Anyway I make my scrambled with just little bit vegetable oil, black pepper and little salt and serve them with smoked salmon. Would see them more like a side to compliment not a overly tasty/heavy main dish. Recommend? (0) Report abuse
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