The Coca Cultivator's Handbook

by Manuel Coquero
Chapter 1: About Coca - History of its Cultivation and Use There are at present count more than a hundred drugs derived from psychotropic plants. More are being discovered every year. Nearly all of these natural, mind-altering drugs have an aura or legend and mystery surrounding them. For centuries drugs prepared from certain plants have shaped single lives, religions, even entire cultures. Among the more widely used of these drugs is marijuana (hash-hish, kif or charas in its more concentrated form) which has been a medium for religious ceremonials for an estimated 6,000 years and is cultivated worldwide in all but the hottest and coldest climates, mushrooms probably runs a good second. The most widely used is known as God's flesh, or teonanacatl, found in the U.S., Mexico, Central and South America. Another type of hallucinogenic mushroom just now making the scene again is Amanita muscaria, or fly agaric. This one may go back thousands of years to the ancient Hindus and the Zoroastrians where it is referred to as soma. One of the reasons for its connection to soma is that it can pass through the unaltered and can be consumed again, if one is really into it as per Hindus. (Care to join me in a little shot of soma piss, baby?). Peyote, or mescal buttons (The Divine Messenger) from the tops of a certain cactus known as Lophophora Williamsii is another of the more widely known and is used by natives of North America. A list of the lesser knowns might be headed by morning glory seeds, known as round things(ololuiqui) by 16th century Mexicans. Columbus, as well as his discovery of America, also discovered the natives in the West Indies gleefully snorting yopo, made from the bark of the Andenanthera tree. Another psychedelic found in South America, called yaje, is ingested in the form of a drink prepared from the stem bark of certain vines. Active ingredient: harmine, a very stable psychedelic. Iboga, a strong stimulant and psychedelic is used by the secret Bwiti cult in the Congo, and appears to be doing better than Christianity in making converts there. All of these drugs have been incorporated into cults for religious functions. They provide variously for the union with the divine or sacred, and for a self, transcendence, or relaxation, sometimes obliteration of the boundaries of the ego. They have served as special instructors, and have ushered many a primitive through the rites of puberty and into manhood. Generally, there is also an associated purging or purification of the mind and body. This may take the form of elaborate fasting and preparation for the ceremony of ingestion. It is also suggested by the nausea and vomiting which accompanies the use of certain varieties. The literal meaning of the term psychedelic (mind manifesting) gives suggestion to the release of the subconscious associated with the use of these drugs. The above discussion has been presented mainly to help illustrate the answer to the question: "What is coca?" by placing it in the schematic of psychotropic plants. The action and use of Erythroxylon coca is not nearly so widely known as that of cocaine, one of its most active alkaloids. As will be discussed later, coca is not cocaine and the rituals that surround its use vary greatly from that of cocaine. No religious experience, no physical or psychological rush,

but merely gave the power of endurance, freedom from fatigue and hunger. The Incas No discussion of the coca plant and its use may be separated from a discussion of the Incas. Coca has in fact been called "the divine plant of the Incas". Erythroxylon coca was first known to be cultivated on the eastern slopes of the Andes prior to 1200 AD, and its use goes back as far as 500 BC. About the time of the first cultivation, the Incas were assimilating, assembling, and building their empire -- one of the most extensive and unique in histories. As was their custom, the Incas were quick to recognize and assimilate beneficial aspects of conquered areas. Coca was no exception, although at first its use was limited to the Inca (literally Son of the Sun God) and his royal entourage, which most often numbered in the thousands. As the Incas became more ambitious in their endeavors of building roads, canals, and a vast empire, they allowed the use of the divine plant to filter down to the peasant class in order that they should work harder and become more industrious. Industrious they became! At the height of the empire, there were estimated 6,000,000 coca chewers transforming the land with vigor. In this area containing some of the highest mountains and the most arid deserts in the world, the Incas (with the help of the Incas, of course) irrigated and terraced and made non-arable land productive. With stone and bronze implements, they hacked out roads, tunnels, bridges, cities, and temples unrivaled by that of the most advanced of technological societies. They built over 9,000 miles of roads traversing this treacherous terrain roads on which horses could ride eight abreast. Montaigne said of the Inca roads: Neither Greece, nor Rome, nor Egypt can show anything to compare in usefulness, difficulties overcome, or nobility with these works. Modern science is still scratching its head at the size of stones quarried and moved for miles by the Incas. The Inca could sit in Cuzco, hundreds of miles from the coast, and receive fresh ocean fish daily by a runner who was amply supplied with coca leaves. He could relay messages to the other end of his empire in Quito, Ecuador in a matter of a few, short days. All of this activity was fueled by coca. Each task was assessed as to its difficulty and an appropriate amount of coca was provided to accomplish it. The spaniards and the Catholic Church, who later tried to abolish coca consumption as a pagan frivolity, reluctantly recognized that in order for the natives to accomplish difficult tasks, especially at high altitudes, they must be provided with coca, pagan though it may be. As usual, righteousness gave way to practicality. Even today in modern Peru there is still 8,000,000 coca chewers. Distances are still measured by the cocada the time that the influence of a chew of coca will carry the traveler, or about forty to forty-five minutes. It might be mentioned in passing that the continual daily use of coca by the Indians of Peru is an excellent attestation that a coca habit is purely a fiction. A normal Peruvian will begin chewing coca at the age of ten, will chew it daily and will need no more at the age of one hundred to accomplish a task than he did at the age of ten. A Peruvian Indian will consume tons of coca during his lifetime and the only habit he will acquire will be to lead a long and industrious life. Many live over a century. In short, bound and motivated by coca, the Incas had their shit together. Although the Inca and Incas showed great reference for coca, it was not because chewing the plant gave them a religious experience. Coca sprays and entire plants were replicated in gold and adorned much of the empire. The Inca himself never went without his coca pouch, or chuspa, and he ordered the leaves consumed and sacrificed at nearly all religious

ceremonials and festivals. The fourth Inca, Manco Ccapac, designated his wife "Mama Coca" to afford her the highest title he could bestow. But the llama and maize (corn) were given the same reference, if on a somewhat lesser scale. This is because coca, maize and the llama fell into one general class: they were necessities for livelihood in the Andes. Without coca, it is unlikely the Inca would have an empire. There might not have been the energy to irrigate and terrace and make habitable this arid land. There were monumental tasks to be performed, and without coca enthusiasm may well have waned. Coca, aside from being used as a general stimulant to construct the empire, was employed in many other ways. The Incas applied it to sores, broken bones, to remove cold, and to preserve the teeth. Beyond daily use and the accompanying pleasure, it was used as a charm and was placed in each grave to give companionship and strength for the long trek to the great beyond, giving a greater assurance to reaching paradise. Last, but not least, coca was found to produce uterine contractions, and could be used as a general sexual stimulant. It accompanied many an Indian orgy of sexual excesses. Coca is not cocaine The modern people will need to be reminded again that coca is not cocaine. The action of coca and cocaine, while similar, is different. Each gives a peculiar sense of well-being, but cocaine affects the central nervous system more markedly - not because cocaine is in a more concentrated form, but because the associate substances present in coca, which are important in modifying its action, are not present in cocaine. The natives do not choose their coca for the amount of cocaine content, which in greater quantity would make it bitterer to the taste, but rather they choose it by its aroma and taste. As much as taste and aroma, this would suggest that they are also influenced by the homogeny of all the associate alkaloids, which will enhance the effects to the greatest degree. Though all these other bases, or alkaloids, are milder than cocaine in their psychological effects, they do differ somewhat and give an added dimension to cocaine. The effects of coca What happens to you when you chew coca? Persons who have snorted cocaine before may at first be somewhat disappointed when there is no strong physical or psychological rush. Coca is subtler and not designed for thrill seekers. In a few moments after beginning to chew, any previous hunger will give way to a sensation of warmth in the stomach. The feeling is similar to having eaten a good meal. There will be an aromatic taste in the mouth and an increased flow of saliva. This will be accompanied by an increased pulse beat and a more active digestion. Respiration will be deeper and more regular. In a short time ideas will begin to flow more readily in some respects resembling the mental activity after taking a small dose of opium. Weariness will disappear and will be replaced by a sense of eagerness. Sometimes there will be an initial sense of giddiness. The effects will last about three hours, peaking and gradually wearing off after the first hour. There is none of the traditional "crash" usually associated with stimulants as they wear off. The appetite is then renewed with vigor and one is inclined to rest, unless more leaves are chewed. The reason coca does not have the rise and fall pattern of traditional stimulant is based on the difference in physiological effects from other stimulants. The body is not "tricked" into not

being hungry or tired. On the contrary the action of coca instead flushes the system of waste products that are the cause of fatigue. For example, washing out a fatigued muscle with a common salt solution, even though it will add no new energy, will free the tissue from poisonous material and allow it to perform work again. Energy is not extracted immediately from the intake of food. This process takes about 24 hours. Energy then must be extracted rather from material stored up in the tissues. Without this conversion, the body is merely clogged up with the accumulation of fuel that impedes, rather than creates, energy. Retention of waste products is the retention of poison in the form of uric acid. Experiments have been conducted in a medical setting where rested muscle has been inoculated with urea from a fatigued muscle, making the rested muscle take on symptoms of fatigue. Coca interacts with uric acid and flushes it from the muscles and capillaries, removing the sense of fatigue at the same time. As a result, respiration becomes deeper and the heartbeat, instead of just increasing, becomes more regular and the cycle seems to gain force. It is no wonder that coca and cocaine gained the favor of quite a number of people before it was outlawed by the Pure Food and Drug Law in 1906. In the old days when Coca Cola was coca leaves and cola nuts, Angelo Mariani, a great experimentor and cultivator of coca, was turning on Popes, Queens, inventors, writers, artists and actors. The world was becoming turned on to a stimulant far superior to coffee and tea. All was nipped in the bud by blandbrained, blank-eyed bureaucratic history, when the plant was given the stigma of "narcotic". Whatever the word meant, when applied to coca and and cocaine, Angelo faded. Coca Cola took the cocaine out of the Coke, and users became criminal, to be arrested, imprisoned or "treated" for an illness. Since then, coca is left mainly to the Andean Indians, some 8,000,000 strong who keep on keeping on with their cheeks puffed out by a quid of coca. Cocaine, on the other hand, is left to the rich. Chapter 2: Selecting the Best Plant for Alkaloid Yield Although coca bushes can grow to the height of twelve feet, they are generally kept pruned down to the height of a man for easier harvest. They have straight branches that are sparsely covered with emerald green leaves, the underside tending toward gray. The leaves are shiny, thin, opaque, oval and more or less tapered at either end. A distinct characteristic of the leaf is an areolated portion, bounded by two longitudinal curved lines, one on each side of the midrib. The lines are much more conspicuous on the underside of the leaf. The flowers are about 1/2 inches - 3/8 inches long and are found in little clusters on short stalks. They are composed of five yellowish white petals, heart-shaped anthers and exhale a faint odor. Although the leaves of some species span to over a foot in length, those we are interested in are about 3/4 inches - 4 inches long and 3/4 inches - 1 3/4 inches at their widest point. The fruit, which encases the seed, is about 1/2 inches long and will be pale green when first formed, turning to red when ripe. It will look very much like a cranberry at this stage of its development. When it dries it will turn black, conforming to the shape of the enclosed seed, which has six longitudinal lobes, smooth and of a pale flesh color. The trunk of the bush is covered with rough bark. The branches are sparse and are ferngreen when new and will turn various tints of brown to gray as they mature. It is very common

to see bud, leaf and flower on the same bush. The flower is also "perfect", in that it contains both male and female sexes and can thus pollinate itself. Choosing Your Plant The reason a physical or botanical description of coca was saved for this chapter is that there are many variations of physique as well as different compositions of alkaloids. There are more than a hundred species of coca. They are used as a snakebite remedy (E. anquifuqum), as purgatives (E. campestre), and two species (E.suberosum and E.tortuosum ) yield a red dye. One species (E.areolatum) grows to a height of eighteen feet, and is known as ironwood, or redwood. Some very fine timber is derived from it. The big "E" in the above botanical name stands for Erythroxylon, which is one of the two genera of coca, the one we're interested in. The majority of Erythroxylon species are found in South America, although several are found in Asia, Africa and Australia. Of all these, only two broad varieties are grown commercially for their alkaloids: E. bolivianum and E.novogranatense. The former is also called Huanuco or Bolivian coca and the latter is generally referred to as Truxillo, or Peruvian coca. Bolivian or Huanuco coca is the variety of coca that is grown exclusively for the alkaloid cocaine, and is the richest in that alkaloid. Truxillo or Peruvian coca is the bush preferred by the natives -- the coca chewers. The chewers, or those who make coca wine, prefer Truxillo primarily for its aromatic flavor. Besides being less bitter, it also contains several alkaloids that are non-crystalizable, each having its own effect and which are not prominent in the Huanuco variety. Native chewers call Huanuco hajas amargas, or "bitter leaf", whereas Truxillo is referred to as hajas dulces, or "sweet leaf". To Chew or to Snort In terms of cultivating for alkaloids there are essentially two varieties to choose from: Truxillo, the chewers coca; and Huanuco, the (for want of a better term) snorters coca. In fact, if it weren't for the eight million native chewers, commercial growers would cultivate Huanuco almost exclusively. The description at the beginning of this chapter holds true for both the Truxillo and Huanuco varieties. The basic physical difference between the two is that the Huanuco variety has larger leaves that are elliptical, oval and broader above the middle. The Truxillo variety has smaller, narrower leaves and is broadest in the middle making a more regular oval shape. For those only familiar with snorters coca (i.e. cocaine) the choice might seem quite easy. Who, including Sherlock Holmes, has not found snorting highly pleasurable? But it's suggested that before making a choice that consideration be given to chewers coca. Chewing the leaf and snorting the flake are definitely two different trips. Chewing the leaves gives little of the psychological rush generally associated with the ingestion of cocaine. The effect is somewhat subtler because it is in a less concentrated form. But it is important to remember that when cocaine is extracted from the leaves there are quite a number of uncrystalizable alkaloids that are left behind and are missed entirely. What are alkaloids? Alkaloids are nitrogenous compounds that are usually formed as salts of organic acids. Nearly all of the vegetable alkaloids are probably formed by the action of ammonia, or amino compounds that are derived from ammonia, upon nitrogenous bodies. All of which probably does not tell you a helluva lot. You're still asking just what alkaloids are. In more basic terms,

alkaloids are waste products, or excreta, of plants. They are regarded as waste products because they cannot enter the constructive metabolism of the plant though they are not directly excreted but are stored away, and may be soon shed off as in leaf or bark. Except for the manner of their expulsion they are analogous to human excreta: feces, and uric acids. We will assume you know from whence they come. You have no doubt gathered by this point in the discussion that cocaine is one of the alkaloids. What follows will be a brief description of the alkaloids that are left behind when cocaine is extracted. All of the bases are more mild than cocaine and are considerably different in their psychological action. The action of cocaine is more pronouncedly on the nervous system than all the associate alkaloids, while they affect the muscular system more directly. The Effects of Coca Ecognine is a second base that will crystalize with some difficulty. It has very little effect on the central nervous system unless a very large dose is taken. It also has no anesthetic properties and the motor nerves are not specifically influenced. Ingestion is followed by slight depression that is in turn very quickly followed by reflex irritability of the spinal cord. Benzoyl-ecognine is in turn an intermediate compound which has its effect directly on the muscle similar to caffeine. It has, in fact, so great an affinity for muscle that it is imbibed by adjacent muscles so thoroughly that more distant structures receive very little of the drug. Cocamine is a local anesthetic nearer in resemblance to cocaine than the other alkaloids. It has the effect of being a general stimulant, although it acts specifically on muscle. Upon ingestion the pupils become dilated at first, then become excessively small. Although it is of the same empirical composition as cocaine, it is somewhat weaker in anesthetic action. Hygrine is another of the bases and comes out in the form of a volatile liquid of a peculiar odor very much the same as that of nicotine. When ingested, this base causes a burning or tingling sensation of the tongue. Ever since the isolation of cocaine in the 1850's not nearly enough attention has been paid in researching these various alkaloids. They were at first described as "decomposition products" and not alkaloids at all. They were thought to be developed by changes taking place in the extraction of cocaine or in the deterioration of the leaves. The non-crystallizable substance has been called variously cocaicine, cocainoidine and cocamine. There has been considerable playing around with this substance and a great number of different chemical compositions have been arrived at, but unfortunately little attention has been paid to their combined physiological effect. There are, though, important principles in coca that are offering a distinctly different physiological effect than any one of its alkaloids. It is hard to believe that 8,000,000 Andeans can be wrong. The choice, though a difficult one without having chewed, is up to the cultivator: Truxillo or Peruvian coca bushes for the chewer; Huanuco, or Bolivian coca for the snorter, who wishes to go to the trouble of extracting the cocaine. Chapter 3: Constructing a Window Box Cocal Coca, even more so than the grape, is a highly specialized shrub and needs highly

specialized climatic conditions and soil in which to grow. Like vineyards, the best of which grow well only in northern California and e few scattered coastal regions in Europe and South America, cocals are generally grown in the mountains of South America. The montana of Brazil, Columbia and Peru where most types of Erythroxylon coca grow, is one of the few places that naturally provide this climate. Although some species have been known to grow at sea level, most (and the best) prefer the coolness and humidity of the higher altitudes. Cocals flourish best at 4,000 to 6,000 feet above sea level. These lofty heights provide the several conditions that are conducive to their growth. Temperature The temperatures of the montana are very equable. The variations between night and day, winter and summer, are a matter of only a few degrees. The temperature is nearly always in the middle to high 60's, although temperatures of over 68F generally tend to cause the coca leaves to become somewhat brittle, and the plant will lose its strength. Even though higher temperatures may cause more prolific growth, the leaves will not have the delicate aroma and flavor of choice coca. Too cool a climate will cause the plant to grow much smaller leaves and the alkaloid yield will be inferior. Even the slightest frost will probably destroy the most hardy coca bush. Humidity Humidity is water suspended in the air as a vapor. The familiar phrase relative humidity refers to the percentage of the moisture in the air at a given time and location, as measured against the total amount of moisture the air could hold without it condensing and becoming droplets. Another peculiar feature of the montana is the high degree of humidity present. It is either hazy or drizzling during some portion of the day, nearly every day of the year. A huge bank of fog is nearly always blocking the sun out. It follows then that the coca bush will want, and need, a constant supply of humid air. The warmer the climate the more humidity they need. If it is not forthcoming, the leaves will brown, yellow or drop off. Flower buds will shrivel and fail to open, and the bush becomes vulnerable to pest or disease attacks. Coca normally draws its water up from its roots to aid in the many processes of growth. Some of the water is transpired; that is, given off as a vapor from the plants stoma, or pores. Because heat without humidity will dry them out, the warmer it gets the more the bushes will transpire in an effort to raise the humidity in the atmosphere. But a coca bushs supply of water is limited, and once it is exhausted the plant will be left parched, lacking the moisture for other necessary operations. You will do well then to keep the relative humidity of your cocal between 60-80% - or even higher. This will allow the plants to use moisture drawn up through the roots for the growing process. Soil The soil of the montana where cocals grow is rich in mineral matter, yet free from any trace of limestone. Like the tomato, coca is truly an acid-loving plant. A small trace of alkalinity will cause the plant to grow poorly with scant foliage. Generally, a rich, red clay soil with good drainage is required. It is possible that metallic soil might have some influence on the production of alkaloid, but much more will be said about soil and alkalinity in a following chapter. It has probably become obvious that you will not grow your cocal out in your backyard, unless

you are favored with an exceptional climate. But this should certainly not discourage you from cultivating what might become your favorite shrub. There are simple and inexpensive methods of climate control, and the greater accuracy you care to achieve, the greater the regards your plants will bestow upon you. Because of the high degree of atmospheric control you will need for your coca, a green house becomes a necessity. But if your pocket book is short and you have visions o an expensive glass and metal piece of architecture rising up from the ground, dont despair. For the short pocketbook, a window greenhouse can be added to your house or apartment for next to nothing, and should be sufficient to house two well-pruned bushes. Below we will include in this chapter the basic design for a low cost greenhouse. If you feel a great deal more expansive, there are several ready-to-assemble kits that are available. For those of you who are both expansive and have a flair for building there are numerous plans available for every kind of greenhouse, from a simple lean-to to large geodesic domes, but they are unnecessary for the beginning cultivator and beyond the scope of this book. In any case, a simple windowbox cocal and a lot of love will be adequate for your plants. It is, in fact, best to start with a small unit and a couple of plants and expand after you are successful with those. Before we delve into greenhouse construction, it is important to note than any greenhouse, whether you buy or build it, must be modified slightly before it will be a good home for your coca bushes. Direct sun, allowed to strike your plants more than infrequently, will lower the alkaloid yield. Too much sun will wither and dry out the leaves of the plant. Prolonged sunlight could even kill a hardy plant. In any case, the south exposure favored and desired by most greenhouse growers can easily be avoided unless you live in the mildest of climates. Shade trees, another nemesis of most greenhouse growers, are a helpful item to coca growers. Deciduous trees are especially good to have around your greenhouse. They will shade the plants from the hot summer sun and will shed their leaves to allow you to cull what you want of the weak winter rays. A southern exposure with little shade will also drive the temperature of your greenhouse up to a very unfavorable range, making it difficult to control. Even if you used an air conditioner your utility bill would be enormous, and you would still have to be concerned about your cocal being too warm and bright. It is better that the location you select has too little sunlight than too much, particularly in the windowbox model. It is easier and cheaper to supply artificial light than have to artificially cool the air. Check all of your possible locations and calculate how much sunlight each will receive during the different seasons. Four or five hours a day is more than sufficient for your cocal. And remember: with sunlight comes heat, which you are to avoid. If all of the places you have to select from are too bright and hot, you still dont have an insurmountable problem. You will in any case want to construct sun filters from cheesecloth. There is also a filtering/reflecting paint available from most greenhouse suppliers that will help you reduce unwanted sunlight and heat. If you build a freestanding greenhouse you will without question need a humidifier. For this item again we refer you to books on greenhouse construction. There are many different models available and may cost from thirty dollars to thousands of dollars. In the small window greenhouse we are going to describe, we have found that a regular (daily at least) misting with a very fine spray from one of the commercially available plant misting bottles is

adequate, and at a cost of less than $2, much more practical. Besides raising the humidity, misting gives the bushes the regular moisture on their foliage that they enjoy. You can also keep the humidity up by keeping a shallow box filled with moist gravel. This will be described in more detail when we get to the actual construction later in this chapter. The frame is best constructed from redwood 2X2. Only two kinds of wood should be used in the framework of a greenhouse: redwood and cypress (although cedar has been found to be adequate). Both of these types of wood are resistant enough to moisture to withstand the high humidity of a greenhouse without rotting. Cypress is used less often because it is more difficult to buy. Redwood is light, durable, shrinks very little and is resistant to insects, moisture and decay. It is also easy to work with. In any case, buy only heartwood. The term refers to that part of the tree the wood has been cut from. Heartwood will be of much better quality because it is the older growth of the tree. The frame can be nailed together with 6d (six-penny) finishing nails. A half-pound of these will be more than adequate. For stability it is strongly suggested that L brackets be used on at least the frame sides and top. These can be purchased at any hardware store, and are best secured with the appropriate quantity of #8-1.5 screws. The sides of the windowbox can be screwed right to the window frame with #8-3 screws. A pair of small hinges will be needed for the top cover. This is important because it allows for ventilation. For the bottom of the box it is best that all seams be filled with silicone tub and tile caulk, then painted with one of the new water-resistant plastic enamel paints that are on the market. They are available at most paint and hardware stores (CAUTION: Do not put the plants into your cocal until the paint and sealer have dried completely, preferably with a day or two of airing out. The fumes are very detrimental to your plants and could possibly kill them). The covering you put over the frame is without a doubt the most important material as regards selection. Glass is best. It is most durable and best as a transmitter of light. It will outlast any other covering you use 10 to 1. Other factors to consider are the cost and ease of construction. Glass is considerably more expensive than plexiglass or polyethylene plastic and complicates the construction because it must be insert into the frame and glazed. If you decide to use glass, doublestrength window glass is best and can be purchased cut to size. Plexiglass will last nearly as long as glass and some manufacturers claim it is a better transmitter of light. It is somewhat less expensive than glass, depending on the strength and thickness you purchase, and will not shatter. It can also be cut with a good sharp handsaw. Polyethylene plastic is by far the cheapest covering for your cocal. It is extremely easy to work with and can be cut with a pair of scissors. The major drawback is its lack of durability. It must be replaced once a year or more often and will not stand up to a harsh climate, such as hot sun or snow. If you use polyethylene for your cocal, remember that direct sun will deteriorate it quickly and it should be watched (especially along the folds) for cracks or wear. Sears and Roebuck have a polyethylene substitute that is stronger and more durable. It is called butyrate and for only a slightly higher price than polyethylene will last two to three years. The following step-by-step construction is set out with an eye to cost, durability, ease and of construction and the application of the finished greenhouse to use as a cocal. Material

substitutions can be made if better materials are available, but the list provides adequate materials and methods at a low cost. The entire greenhouse can be built for less than $40. STEP 1: Find the best window as regards light, heat and size. A south window with no shade should be avoided unless the climate is very mild. If your cocal is to be two bushes strong, the window should be at least four feet in height and over three feet in width. Even with these dimensions, some adjustments will have to be made, so try to find a window at least this size. If you have no windows this large, you are not lost. You will just have to cut down on the access space to reach and care for your cocal. You will also not be able to see it as well and watch it grow. (This last consideration was found to be very important incidentally. A sympatico seems to develop between cultivator and cultivated until it is hard to distinguish one from the other). Note: if the window is too small, the exterior of the apartment building or house must be made of a material to which you can attach the cocal frame, i.e. wood. Brick or concrete, although not impossible, is difficult. STEP 2: Once you have located an appropriate window, the frame should be carefully measured. It would be best to consider carefully how a frame at least 78 high and 48 wide can be attached outside of it. Measure the window again! Now a plan, including measurements, should be sketched out carefully. In this step, as in all of them, care should be exercised. Many difficulties can be avoided by careful planning. After your plan and measurements have been sketched out, a materials list should be made out. STEP 3: Once the materials have been gathered you can begin construction. Begin with the frame as pictured. It is best, and easiest, to begin with the sides. The height of the sides should be a minimum of 78 (inside height), but can be more if you are blessed with a taller window. Remember that coca will grow to a height of twelve feet if it is not pruned. Wellpruned bushes will be about six feet high, so you must provide adequate space for them to grow properly. When the height is determined, cut four pieces of your redwood 2X2s to the proper length. At least make doubly sure that they are all the same lengths. The side cross members can be cut now. Eighteen inches is quite an adequate depth, and it is suggested to not make the box deeper or it will become unwieldly and difficult to support. Again, four side members should be cut, making sure they are the same lengths. Now you have the sides cut out and ready for assembly. Nail them together one at a time with 4d finishing nails. It is strongly suggested that you apply a liberal coat of white glue to all surfaces before joining them. This will give you considerable added strength. When finished youll have two rectangular frames for the sides. Do not screw on the L brackets until the sides have been joined together by the cross members. Allow the frame sides to dry and cut the four cross members. They will be a minimum of 48, more if you are blessed with a nice, wide, bay window. When these have been cut, and when the side frames have been allowed to dry, they can be nailed and glued to the sides. You will now have, hopefully, a good square rectangular frame. Use your framing square and make sure each of the corners is square in three directions. As each corner is squared the L brackets can be applied. Lay them on the corners and drill the holes with a 1/8 drill. Screw the brackets down tightly with #8 woodscrews. STEP 4: Now that the basic frame is complete, cut the bottom from marine plywood. (Other grades of plywoods will quickly deteriorate and cause an expensive and difficult repair job in a very short period of time). After it has been cut and tried for size, a liberal bead of silicone tub and tile sealant should be applied to the surface that will be connected to the frame then. The

bottom can then be nailed to the frame with 6d finishing nails. Now apply another generous bead of sealant to all inside bottom seams. The entire frame should be set aside to dry for at least 24 hours. In the meantime you can construct the top. The top will also be constructed of redwood 2X2. It is strongly suggested that the corners of the top be mitred for greater rigidity and durability. The top will, of course, be cut to measure the same size as the top of the frame. Once the four side pieces have been cut, they can be glued and nailed together. Now the hinges can be laid on the back cross member and the holes marked for drilling. Drill out all of the holes and screw and screw the hinges down tightly. Now take a piece of metal strap iron about 8 long. It is necessary that it has holes in it as the illustration. Most hardware stores or builders supply houses carry it with the holes already stamped out. It is no more costly than solid strap iron and is a lot less difficult than attempting to drill several holes in an iron strap. This can be screwed to the center inside of the front cross member. It will be used to prop the top open when ventilation is necessary. When the top is attached to the frame, a screw can be put part way into the top frame cross member corresponding with the piece of strap iron. In this manner the top can be raised or lowered by simply putting the appropriate hole in the strap iron over the screw. Before mounting the top to the frame, it is best if they are both covered with the Butyrate or polyethylene. STEP 5: The covering material should be cut to size for the sides, front and top. If possible try to cut full size pieces. The work will be much simplified if there are no seams in the covering material. The covering material will also last longer if there are no seams. If you find it absolutely necessary to have seams (i.e. you are not able to get the covering material in sufficient widths) use double, overlapping seams (look at the seams in the legs of your Levis). A thin coat of plastic cement will help hold it, or you can use a warm iron to seal it, provided you use tinfoil between the iron and the polyethylene, making sure the iron is not too hot. In any event, avoid seams if you can. Most of these covering materials are sold in sufficient widths. Polyethylene is sold in widths over twenty feet. IMPORTANT: when cutting the covering material leave an inch or two extra on all sides. It is much easier to trim with a pair of scissors than to try and stretch a short piece. After the material is cut to size, the wood lath can be cut. There should be a piece on every edge of the sides, front, and top. You can use the inside measurements of the frame itself for cutting the lath. Now apply the covering to each side one at a time. It is best to apply it on one edge, first making sure that it is kept taut as the piece of lath is nailed over it. When the first edge is complete, do the edge opposite it. The other two edges can be done in any order, but be sure the covering material is kept taut at all times. If the material is kept taut it will last longer, transmit light better, and give you a better-looking cocal. The front, top and both sides should be done in the same manner. STEP 6: You are now ready to attach the top. Set the top on the frame making sure it fits flush on all sides. Once it is sitting flush, mark the holes for the hinges and drill them out with a 1/8 drill bit. The hinges can now be screwed down tightly. STEP 7: You should now have a finished cocal ready to be attached around the window frame you have selected. Have a friend, or two, help you by holding the cocal in place. Blunt the ends of two 16d nails with a hammer so they do not split the wood, and drive them through either side of the frame, the top third preferably, into the building leaving about

protruding. Now drill 3 holes through the frame and into the building with your drill. Screw six #8-3 screws into these holes, making certain they are secure. Now, carefully, pull the 16d nails out. STEP 8: This step is not a necessity, but our experience has shown it to be very helpful in providing the necessary humidity. Obtain a sufficient quantity of pea rock from your nurseryman. (You should be good friends by now). Pour about 1-1/2 into the bottom of your cocal in an even layer. This layer of gravel will hold a considerable amount of water, which as it evaporates, will raise the humidity of your cocal. Chapter 4: Soil Preparation and Containers Soil is several things to a plant. It is the medium which holds the plant upright. It is also the medium that holds the nutrients so that the plant can gather them in order to grow, flower and fruit. Soil must also hold water in suspension. So the plants can gather nutrients from it. There many substances that, if modified slightly, might provide these three processes for a plant. Cat litter will hold a plant upright and will suspend water quite well. If the proper nutrients were added, cat litter would make an excellent medium in which to grow plants. The problem is that there are many such nutrients, elements and minerals. To provide them all, in very particular and sometimes minute quantities would be a difficult task. Not impossible, but difficult. Growing hydroponically uses such a process. Certainly we dont have to start with some neutral medium. Right in your neighborhood, or down at the local nursery, you can find soil that will fulfill the three basic requirements to support plant life. Some are better than others, some are easier than the others, but with some minor modifications, which will be described in this chapter, most soils will support your cocal. For beginners, it might be well to examine the three support systems that the soil will provide for your plants: 1) supports the plant 2) holds and provides nutrients, and 3) suspends water. In this way you can get a clearer conception of how to provide the proper soil for your coca. You can be as exacting as you wish, but there are certain basic minimum requirements. 1. SUPPORTING THE PLANT: Of course, the plant must be held upright in order that it can function, but the matter is somewhat more complex than that. It must be held gently but firmly. Firmly so that when it reaches six or more feet in height, it does not fall over. Gently so that the plant has room to move and expand to grow. The physical texture and structure of the soil also plays a vital part in its ability to store nutrients and provide them to the plants. Remember that the soil you choose must hold the young plant gently but firmly. 2. HOLDING NUTRIENTS: Pedologists (soil scientists) have learned that there are many nutrients that are important to plant growth and more particular for our purposes, coca growth. The main elements that must be in the soil for plant growth are nitrogen, phosporous, potassium, magnesium, and sulphur. If the particular soil you choose has a growth deficiency in any particular one of these it can be made up with the addition of some special substances. Sulphate of ammonia will provide nitrate and sulphate; superphosphate, bone meal and basic slag will provide phosphate; woodash and kainite will supply potash. Though these are a few of the main constituents of those used in plant tissues, they are by no means the only ones.

Others which occur in minute quantities, but which are just necessary for growth are known as trace elements. This list of trace elements is constantly being added to and increased until it may be soon shown that all of the chemical elements - in however small an amount are necessary - for really healthy plant growth. Although we only need concern ourselves here with the main constituents of the soil, it is well to note how complex the nutritive process is. The three main nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorus and potash are those contained in fertilizers. The three numbers on fertilizer bags are the indices of how much of each is contained in the fertilizer. The first number gives the amount of nitrogen, the second number the amount of phosphorus and the third number the amount of potash. The Sudbury Soil Testing Kit, which is available at nurseries, uses color charts to help the cultivator determine the percentage of each plant food that is needed in the fertilizer mixture when it is applied at the rate of 5 lbs. per square feet. The kits are easy to use and a must for a serious coca cultivator. The soil tests may show, for an example, that the fertilizer should contain 10% N, 20% P and 12% K. A fertilizer analyzing 10-20-12 would be ideal. Of course, fertilizer analyzed at 5-10-6 would work equally as well, but the amount added would have to be doubled. Caution should be exercised whenever fertilizer is added. Fertilizer is easily overdone and over fertilizing will burn your plants up. It would be a good idea for every grower to touch a bit of fertilizer to his tongue and see how it stings. It would give him a much better picture of why fertilizer must be applied with caution. 3. HOLDING WATER: The size of grain of which the soil is composed is of considerable importance to plants because this affects its water-holding capacity. Between the grains of soil there are gaps through which the water will travel. If the gaps are big, water will pass down very easily, but it will not pass up. It is only in soil where the gaps are small, as in clay or loam, that water will travel up as long as there is surface evaporation and enough water to keep supplying the surface. This process is called capillarity. Much less water is lost by evaporation when the surface of the soil is kept loose. In close conjunction with water, it is important to remember that the roots will need air as well. Therefore, it must not be concluded that plants need wet soil. Almost the opposite is true. If the soil were so wet and waterlogged that air couldn't penetrate, the roots would be unable to breathe and the plant would die. It follows then, that the texture of soil must be such that it can hold some water between its granules, yet be loose enough to allow the water to drain and the plant roots to breathe. Chapter 5: Selecting and Germinating Seeds It has been said that one of the most marvelous of all natural phenomena is the transformation of a single cell into a mature organism. A transformation that includes growth (increase in cell number) and development (differentiation and organization of cells). Differentiation is carried out by genetic information stored in the cells of each individual seed. It is important to remember that this information is turned on and off by the cells of the seeds themselves and signals obtained from the outside environment. What you do with your seeds is of prime importance, as important as what they are. You can provide optimum growing conditions for the seeds so they will grow optimally for you. All soils, containers and a place for the residence of the young shoots should be provided before attempting to germinate the seeds and plant them. They must be germinated very quickly after they are ready or they will lose their vitality. The seed should be red and not more than three weeks old before germination. The fruit, which is basically the seed with a

thin protective covering, is a light greenish yellow when first formed. As it matures it will turn to a deep red or vermilion and will then resemble a small oval cranberry when ripe. If it is permitted to remain on the bush, it becomes dark brown or black and shrivels to the irregular oval shape of the nut. When choosing the seeds for germination, all fruit that is obviously decayed should be discarded. In fact, any seed that is not red should probably be discarded. The balance of the fruit should be placed in a sufficient amount of water to float them. Those that are light enough to float should also be rejected. The remainder are then rotted in a cool damp place. The seed is then extracted, washed and dried in the sun. In order to preserve the seed for any length of time, the fruit should be sun dried so the fleshy portion will form into a thin protective coating. The plants that we have started from seed originate from the East Andean Montana of Peru. Availability was then one of the considerations in selecting the Truxillo variety of Erythroxylon coca. But, even though there is a somewhat lesser concentrate of the cocaine alkaloid, the higher concentrate of the other alkaloids add much to the ingestion. The Truxillo variety is also generally tastier when chewed and seems to be less harsh on your system, or rather, more mellow. On cocal plantations the seeds are generally germinated by keeping them in a heap three or four inches deep and saturated with water until they germinate. The sprouts are picked apart very carefully and planted in hills, though they are sometimes strewn on the grown to grow until they are moved to a hill. The young, tender shoots are kept well protected from the occasional but harsh sun and covered from the rain. This can be simulated quite well by germinating the seeds between two pieces of bandage gauze (several layers of paper towel can be used equally as effectively) and placed in a damp saucer. We keep our saucer right in the greenhouse where they will finally reside. With the sun filters drawn, of course. It is important that the seeds are kept damp during this sprouting period or they will dry out and die. The precaution of keeping them in the greenhouse until they sprout is not absolutely necessary. They have been sprouted by simply keeping them damp in the fashion described above and at a slightly cool room temperature: 18C to 20C, or 64 F to 68 F, much the same conditions as needed by the growing plants As soon as the seeds have formed sprouts, which might be anywhere between a day and two weeks, they should be placed slightly below the surface of the soil about 1/8 inch and certainly no more than1/4 inch with the soil loosely packed around them. To insure maximum success with each seed, proper placement in the soil can be important. The sprout would be underneath with the seed pointing slightly up, at about a 45 degree angle. This will allow the newly formed sprout to raise toward the surface of the soil quickly without having to bend and face the possibility of breaking itself. It will also give the sprout the shortest possible distance to travel to the surface of the soil, allowing the process of photosynthesis to begin as soon as possible. The sprout should break the surface of the soil in a week to ten days. Of course, when the sprout is visible and the process of photosynthesis begins, the young plant will have to be placed in the greenhouse cocal. If the seeds are started in Jiffy Pots or 2 inches clay pots, care should be taken to keep the humidity high and keep them sufficiently watered, for these

small pots will dry out quickly, and a dry pot will mean a dead seedling. The 2 inch pot should be sufficient for the young plant for several weeks, depending on how fast it grows. When it reaches two or three times the height of the pot it will be ready for its first transplanting. Chapter 6: Other Methods of Propagation If you have grown a bush from seedlings or have access to a mature bush, probably the easiest method of propagation is by inducing adventitious roots to grow on plant cuttings. The cutting method also gives more control over what type of plant will be produced, because the cutting will grow into a bush with all the characteristics of the parent bush, whereas reproducing by seed germination can yield widely varied results. Cuttings should be taken from the parent plant's growing tip or from the side shoots. Erythroxylon coca cuttings will be most successful if they are 5-6 inches long. The base should be cut very cleanly with a sharp knife. Tearing the base of the cutting will injure the plant and its ability to form roots. In choosing a shoot to use for a cutting, the stem must be neither too hard nor too soft. If it is very soft and pliable, it is of no use and the same applies if it has gone quite woody. It is difficult to indicate the precise optimum state for cuttings, but a general rule of thumb is to take cuttings at that point where growth is firm enough to snap when the twig is bent sharply. If the wood bends, the cutting is too old (or too young) for satisfactory rooting. (If the shoot is snapped off, care should be taken to trim it to make the cut clean). Avoid taking abnormal growth or weak shoots from the center of the plant. Once the shoot has been removed from the plant, remove all leaves that will be under the soil when it is inserted and remove some which will be above the soil level. The cuttings should be inserted into the soil about half their length, the soil replaced and firmed around them. The soil we are speaking of may be sand, perlite, vermiculite or kitty litter mixed with a small amount of potting soil. The more foliage the cutting has the more it will transpire and lose moisture, causing it to wilt. If it loses too much moisture from the leaves, it is likely that it will die before it has a chance to take root. One method of circumventing this is to cut the leaves in half, allowing less leaf surface for transpiration. A more effective method is to place an empty gallon container over the shoot, thereby creating a miniature greenhouse that will retain the humidity the shoot needs to take root. Rooting can be greatly speeded by treating the base of the cutting with a rooting hormone. Speed is important, because the quicker the cutting takes up water the less chance it will have to wilt. The brand names of two of these are Rootone and Hormodin. Again, this hormone can be purchased in nearly any store that sells plant or gardening supplies. Dip the moistened end of the stem into one of these powders, shake the excess powder off and insert the stem in the rooting medium. Be sure to read the instructions on the label and do not expect the hormone to make up for any mistakes you make in watering, shading or sanitation. Too much of these hormones is worse than none at all. Ground layering is another simple method of propagation in which branches are notched and brought into contact with the soil to make them take root while still attached to the parent plant. Once they have formed roots, they can be detached and planted, thus becoming new

plants. Select a low growing branch that can be bent to the soil of a new pot. Take a point a few inches from the end of the branch and just below a joint. On the underside of the branch at a selected point, make a slanting cut halfway through the branch and wedge it open with a people. Bend the branch into a hole in a pot placed nearby, placing the cut at the center and well toward the bottom. Anchor it with a heavy wire loop, fill the hole with soil, firm the soil and mulch the pot to conserve moisture. After several weeks, dig down carefully to see if the branch has taken root. If it has, sever it from the parent branch. If rooting has not taken place, put back the soil and wait. Sometimes this process will take several months. Air layering is another ancient and well-proved technique for propagation. Select a pencilsized branch. Below a joint either make a slanting cut 1/3 through the stem, inserting a piece of matchstick to keep it spread apart, or remove a ring of bark about 3/4 wide, scraping it down to the heartwood. Dust the cut lightly with rooting hormone powder, wrap the area with a generous handful of damp sphagnum moss, and enclose it in polyethylene. Bind it securely above and below the cut with string or wire ties. Chapter 7: Daily Care of Your Coca Most of what you need to know about the daily care of your cocal has been said in previous chapters. As a precautionary measure, it will be well to outline at least those factors which will have a major part to play in the well being of your plants. Soil It is of prime importance that the soil be light and airy and provide proper drainage. If water sits around the roots, they will rot and the plant may die. Soil that is too alkaline should be rigorously avoided. In any event, know the pH of your soil. If you use commercially packaged soil or one prepared by your nursery, you need not worry for quite some time about nutrients. They will be amply available. Watering Do not over-water. Your plants wont like it. Dig down a couple of inches before watering and if the soil is dry, water it. If it is moist at all, leave it alone. More critical attention should be paid to keeping the humidity high, than to drowning the roots. Humidity Your bushes will enjoy a good solid misting everyday. It will keep the leaves supple and breathing well. If gravel is used in the bottom of the cocal and kept moist, the misting can be lighter and less frequent. Remember, the higher the temperature, the higher the humidity should be kept. Also, the more the cocal is ventilated the more moisture will evaporate and will have to be replaced. Temperature and Sunlight Temperature should be kept as constant as possible around the 60s. A ten degree variance will not seriously injure your plants, but more than this should be avoided if possible. Frost is a sure killer, as are very high temperatures. Heat is a very close associate of sunlight. Because you dont want either of them beyond a moderate quantity, a sun filter is a necessity.

Ventilation Regular ventilation is important to get rid of stale, stagnant air. Stale air may lack nitrogen and the bushes will suffer. Fertilizing Keep your hands off the fertilizer until the plant is off to a good and healthy start. Overfertilizing, or fertilizing too early in the plants growth is worse than none at all. An underfertilized plant will at least live. That can not be said with the same certainty of one burned up by an overdose of Rapid Gro. Touch some to your tongue again and you'll know why. Transplanting There will be times, as your bush grows and matures, when transplanting will be necessary. The general rule of thumb to follow is to move plants to larger containers when their root systems fill their present container. They should be moved to the next size pot, not to a very large one. Too large a pot will cause the root fibers to grow out too fast and eventually cause the ends of the roots to die. When moving plants up to larger pots, allow an inch for fresh soil on all sides. When you reach the largest container, a deep 10" pot, and the root mass fills it, simply shave away 1" of the old roots on all sides with a knife. Then you can re-plant in the old pot using some new soil around it. The plant should be removed from the old container and the outside of the root-ball shaken to loosen the root ends. Care should be taken not to get too vigorous, or root ends may be damaged. A light spray of water will loosen the outside edge of the root-ball gently. The rootball can then be set in the new container and the remainder filled with soil, which should be compacted lightly with a stick. Finally, it should be said that transplanting isn't magic and with reasonable care and some practice, it can be accomplished almost without disturbance to the plant. Chapter 8: Harvest Time! Curing the Leaves & Chewing There comes a time when man can reap what he has sown. The reward for proper care of your cocal has come. It is time to pick and dry the leaves. You are about to become one of the paladores, or coca gatherers. Aside from actually chewing, or other ingestion, this will be the most rewarding. The first harvest, as well as the first harvest every year from your bush is called Quita Calzon. The second yearly harvest is called Mitta de Marzo. It is generally the largest. The third is called Mitta de San Juan, the Festival of St.John, and the last harvest is called Mitta de Todos Santos, or Harvest of All Saints. In any case, the first harvest is really more a trimming than a real harvest, and will commence when your plant is about eighteen months to two years old. Care must be taken that the first harvest of the bush not takes place before it is mature. Although picking generally has a beneficial effect on the bush, growing tips and shoots should not be injured. It must be remembered that coca cultivation requires care and patience. Greedily taking the leaves too early will only injure the bush. The leaves will be ready for plucking when they have begun to get a slight yellow tint to them, making them more an olive green. The soft pliable quality they had previously will give way to a tendency to break or crack on being bent. A good harvest will take place about eight days before the leaves would have fallen on their own accord. To pluck the leaves simply take between the thumb and forefinger and pull lightly with a twisting motion. They can be cut with a sharp scissors at their base, but this is unnecessary if they are picked at the correct time,

because they will then detached fairly easily. Never take more of the leaves than are ready according to the above criteria. The final sprout, if it is injured, will cause the plant to wither. Drying the Leaves Once picked, care must also be taken to give them a proper drying. The entire harvest could be ruined if it is not dried properly. If the leaves can not be dried immediately after harvest, they can be preserved for a few days if care is taken that they are not kept in heaps. This would induce sweating and decomposition. The first rule to follow is that the leaves do not get damp. Wet will spoil them and they will decompose and turn black in color, which the Indians term Coca Gonupa, or Yana Coca. One method for drying is to simply spread them thinly in the sun. When dried in this manner, the first drying can be done in six hours, if the weather is good. It may take longer if the humidity is high. After the first drying, the leaves will have become crisp. They should then be placed gently in a pile to induce sweating process that will cause them to be somewhat pliable again. After a short sweating (not more than three days ) the leaves can be placed in the sun again for a second and final drying. The second drying will be shorter than the first. Sometimes it will take as little as an hour. A well-cured coca leaf is olive green on the upper surface, gray green on the lower. They are pliable, uncurled, clean, smooth and slightly glossy. They will have dried out to less than half of their original weight, and will have an odor slightly suggestive of vanilla or a fine china tea. Depending on the variety, they will be more or less bitter to the taste. Peruvian or Truxillo coca will have a pleasant pungent taste. If the leaves are properly cured they can even be stored in a hot humid place for a year. In a cooler place, they may be kept for a much longer time. This is for informational purposes only, for we have found that there are generally no storage problems. At least we have never had a problem with old, stale leaves. An alternative method of drying, one that seems to give a perceptably higher yield of alkaloid, is as follows: spread the leaves thin upon a cloth and dry them in the shade for 24 hours, or slightly longer. When they have become slightly crisp, roll each leaf by hand from end to end. Cure the rolled leaves for a few hours in the same shaded place, then place them, still rolled, high over a charcoal fire for their final drying. Take care that they are not too close to the fire or they will browned and will not be of a good quality. When you have properly dried leaves, you will have coca del dia, or coca of the day. If at any time during the process the leaves are sweated too much or become too damp, they will have a musty odor, called coca ccaspada. Chewing the Leaves After the leaves have been properly dried the truly fun part begins. Chewing them. You are about to become a coquero. Or coca chewer. The Indians first take a quid of leaves from their chuspa, or coca pouch, and place it in their mouths. They then take some Ilipta or mambi (alkalai) from the iscupuru (literally "lime gourd") and wipe it across the quid. They spit out the first saliva, but afterwards swallow it. It is chewed and moved from side to side until it loses flavor. It is then thrown away, but immediately replaced by fresh leaves and fresh Ilipta. You may follow much the same method as the Peruvians, replacing the lime with bicarbonate of soda for your own Ilipta. The first sensation you will receive while chewing will be dryness in the throat, which will leave and not be experienced again. There will follow an aromatic taste in the mouth and an increased flow of saliva. There will be a comfort in the stomach as though a meal had been eaten, and all physical weariness will disappear. The pulse will increase and perspiration will be executed. These sensations will last for about three hours, at which time you will no doubt have a new chew in your mouth.