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A STUDY ON GARMENT PRODUCTION MOBILITY IN TIRUPPUR

CONDUCTED BY LABOUR RESOURCE CENTER SAVE No.5, Iswarya Nagar, Dharapuram Road, K.N..P. Colony (Post), Tirupur- 641 608. Phone: +91-421-2428100, 2428200 E-mail: save@md4.vsnl.net.in, save-ngo@eth.net

PROJECT HOLDER Mr. A. Aloysius, Director, SAVE

A STUDY ON GARMENT PRODUCTION MOBILITY IN TIRUPPUR

CONTENTS
1. GENERAL INTRODUCTION 2. PROBLEM STATEMENT 3. OBJECTIVES OF THE STUDY 4. REVIEW OF RESEARCH STUDIES 5. RESEARCH METHODOLOGY 6. INDUSTRIAL SURVEY 7. DATA COLLECTION 8. ANALYSIS AND INTERPRETATION 9. MAJOR FINDINGS 10. RECOMMENDATIONS 2 3 4 4 8 9 12 12 40 44

LABOUR RESOURCE CENTRE SAVE, TIRUPPUR

A STUDY ON GARMENT PRODUCTION MOBILITY IN TIRUPPUR

A STUDY ON GARMENT PRODUCTION MOBILITY IN TIRUPPUR Abstract


This study carried out by Labour Resource Centre (LRC) of SAVE, Tiruppur attempts to find out the garment production mobility in terms of garment workers involvement in the production, wages prevailing in the industries and workers violation at workplace. Three pronged approaches were used in the data collection viz., industrial survey, focused group discussion and interview schedule survey. In industrial survey 25 industries were survey, in focused group discussion a group of 7 workers of various industries were interviewed, 120 individual workers were interviewed using interview schedule tool. Most of sampled industries are manufacturing and exporting garments in the ranges of 50000 to 80000 pieces per month. Seven tenth of the sampled industries are making an annual turnover of rupees 7 crores to 9 crores. Majority of the workers are in the adult age group of 28 to 37 years. Women workers are observed high in garment industries in equal proportion with the men workers. Psychological and sexual abuses are more prevalent in the industries, of whom women are more vulnerable.

1. GENERAL INTRODUCTION Garment Production, is termed as a manufacture and processing of knitwear products or merchandise, including its design, treatment at various stages, and financial services contributed by bankers. Various economic laws, price data, and available resources are among the factors in production that must be considered by both private and governmental producers. Tirupur and Chennai in Tamil Nadu is the bastion of garment export oriented industries, of which the former is the prominent one. SAVE organisation has been committed for the empowerment of garment workers in Tirupur and had a discontentment in the irregularities existing in the garment production mobility, and in this concern felt the necessities of analysing the mobility of garment production in the garment industries in Tamil Nadu, and thus this research has been propelled.

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A STUDY ON GARMENT PRODUCTION MOBILITY IN TIRUPPUR

2. PROBLEM STATEMENT Migrant populace from various parts of Tamil Nadu and

neighbouring states such as Kerala, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh throng Tiruppur region, since the region woos those indigent and unskilled workers for its knitwear and its ancillary industries that amount to more than 4500 industrial units in and around Tiruppur town. Urbanisation of the Tiruppur is improvising day to day in the context of its budding garment export trade and in the national development the garment exports yield a significant amount to a tune of more than Rs. 6000 crores per annum. As the hosiery industrial sectors open channel for employment opportunities many migrants from various parts of Tamil Nadu and neighbouring states come in Tiruppur for their survival. The population growth rate in Tiruppur is more than 100 percent, which is the largest recorded growth rate in the country. The direct garment workers in Tiruppur are more than 4,00,000 and the indirect workers constitute more than 2,00,000. The floating population in Tiruppur is around 50,000 people, who migrate to the region as daily labourers and employed in 6 towns around Tiruppur namely Dharapuram, Kangeyam, Mangalam, Avinashi, Palladam and Perumanallur. These migrants settle in slums and it is indicated that there are more than 80 slums around Tiruppur and that nearly 65 per cent of the population are migrants. The concentration of the migrants from southern parts of Tamil Nadu is high amongst other parts and they constitute 62 per cent. Typical profile of the migrants is men or women in the ages of 16 to 55 years working in the works as helpers, ironers, cutters, singars, flatlocks, chockers, overlocks, living in a constrained room, unvaried minimum wages for their survival, assigned in contract works, working for a prolonged hours of over 12 hours, involved in continuous shifts and not enjoyed the welfare measures. Thus, capital

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A STUDY ON GARMENT PRODUCTION MOBILITY IN TIRUPPUR

accumulation being nothing but the accumulation of labour, it requires the availability of cheap and tractable labour whenever and wherever it needs it.

3. OBJECTIVES OF THE STUDY To find out the kind of production processes adopted in garment industries. To analyse the production capacity per month in the industries. To correlate the turnover per annum and the wages received by the garment workers. To detect the market price fixation per pieces. To analyse problems of the workers with regard to wages, working conditions, etc. To find out the working conditions at the time of work orders. To enunciate the relationship between the factors of production and an industrys output. To measure the labour exploitation. To find out weaknesses of existing labour standards. 4. REVIEW OF RESEARCH STUDIES In Indian context not much research studies have been undertaken in the field of garment industrial workers, moreover in respect of garment workers in Tiruppur, the numbers are very less. The topics reviewed below give a picture of workers in organized and unorganized sectors in the context of industrial labour activities in relation to western and eastern countries with special concentration in India.

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Clay, Lisa (student author), "The effectiveness of the worker rights provisions of the generalized system of preferences: the Bangladesh case study", Transnational Law & Contemporary Problems v. 11 no1 (Spring 2001) p. 175-201 This Note discusses the operation of the worker rights provisions of the US Generalized Systems of Preferences (GSP). The author questions the efficacy of the United States GSP program in helping the cause of workers rights in the developing part of the world. Using the restrictive labor policies in the Export Processing Zones (EPZs) in Bangladesh as an example, the Note demonstrates the conflicting interests of US investors, workers' associations in the EPZs, and the AFL-CIO. The Note concludes that given the multiplicity of interests, the U.S. GSP has not been successful in promoting workers rights in Bangladesh. It argues instead that worker rights provision should be included in other international trade policies, that the ILO should be given stronger enforcement powers, and the GSP program itself should adopt a clear definition of internationally recognized worker rights. Russell-Brown, Sherrie, "Labor Rights as Human rights: The Situation of Women Workers in Jamaica's Export Free Zones", Berkeley Journal of Employment and Labor Law v. 24 no1 (2003) Russell-Brown presents a case study of Jamaicas export free zones (EFZs) that underscores the gap between the implementation and enforcement of labor regulations and the myriad of legal institutions that purport to protect labor rights. In 1997, there were 13,900 workers in these zones, of whom 95 percent were women. Unlike manufacturing in other parts of Jamaica, the export free zones are entirely non-union. Russell-Brown argues that one explanation for the lack of unions in the EFZs stems from the mismatch between a female workforce and male-dominated unions. Russell-Brown also points out that Jamaican trade unions have long been

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A STUDY ON GARMENT PRODUCTION MOBILITY IN TIRUPPUR

political allies of the elite so that the lack of organizing and labor regulation in the EFZs may be a result of that collusion. Russell-Brown argues that the suspension of worker rights in the EFZs violates Jamaican laws, international agreements, and U.S. trade regulations. Despite all of these legal regulations, no enforcement mechanisms have yet been mobilized to remedy the situation. Goolsby, John H. (note: student author), "Is the Garment Industry Trying to Pull the Wool Over Your Eyes? The Need for Open Communication to Promote Labor Rights in China", Law & Inequality: Journal of Theory and Practice v. 19 no2 (Summer 2001) p. 193-227 This Note addresses the interplay between labor conditions in China, principles of national sovereignty, free-market labor theory, and global human rights. Section II offers a description of five possible approaches for addressing labor violations in China relying on China's own municipal laws; advancing labor rights through Permanent Normal Trade Relations (PNTR) [formerly Most Favored Nation status]; applying business codes of conduct; implementing intergovernmental organizations' mechanisms for promoting compliance with treaties; and promoting greater awareness among Chinese workers of their own legal rights through communications media such as the Internet. Section III assesses the effectiveness of the various strategies by first looking at their limitations, and then discussing how those limitations might be overcome. The author argues that the unifying theme behind all the strategies for improving workers' rights in China must be a drive for more open communication; specifically, Chinese laborers must have greater access to information about their rights under international standards and the laws of their own country, they must be able to voice grievances effectively, and outsiders must have access to information concerning working conditions in Chinese factories. The

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A STUDY ON GARMENT PRODUCTION MOBILITY IN TIRUPPUR

Article concludes that a reduction in constraints on communication is necessary to advance each of these goals, and that the Internet holds unique promise for doing so. Thus for China to be open for business without trammeling workers' rights, it must also become open to the free flow of ideas. POOR INTAKE OF SELECTED NUTRIENTS BY WOMEN WORKERS IN A GARMENT FACTORY, B. Joseph, A. Chanda, A. A. Oommen & V. dAlmeida, Department of Community Health, St. Johns Medical College, Bangalore. Poor nutritional status was observed among garment industry workers in this study. Taking into account the WHO recommended criteria of BMI <18.5, general physical examination of the employees in the factory revealed that more than 25 per cent of women were undernourished. The study analysis revealed that a large proportion of the workers were consuming a diet which was below the recommended intake of calories in carbohydrates and proteins; and surprisingly, their intake of fat was more than the recommended level. The findings of the study show gross anomalies in the dietary pattern of women workers in the garment industry and calls for a more detailed investigation into the same. Attempts were also made in the present study to identify methods by which dietary intake of the female workers can be improved both in terms of quantity and quality. Rosen, Ellen Israel, "The Wal-Mart Effect: The World Trade Organization and the Race to the Bottom", Chapman Law Review v. 8 (Spring 2005) p. 261-282 This article discusses how the World Trade Organization's (WTO) new quota elimination policy negatively affects workers worldwide. Until January 2005, all textile and apparel trade was governed by a system of quotas in an effort to give developing countries access to major U.S. and

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European markets. The author argues that the new no-quota rule by the WTO will result in retailers, including Wal-Mart, moving to countries that can produce the largest volume of apparel at the lowest cost: namely, China and India. The author then looks at how Wal-Mart's business practice of using its power to pressure their suppliers to drive down prices is leading to harsh working conditions for American as well as Chinese workers, particularly women workers. The author concludes that WalMart's style of competition that involves driving down retail prices regardless of the human costs is leading to a "race to the bottom" in the garment industry. Pertinent to industrial productivity, wage structure, new economy demand for flexibility, occupational culture and the labour process, fair employment to equal employment opportunity, global governance, forced and slaved labour, child labour and health aspects are discussed and reviewed in the above stated studies. 5. RESEARCH METHODOLOGY The study adopted three pronged approaches for collecting primary data, they are: Industrial Survey Focused Group Discussion Interview Schedule Survey 5.a. RESEARCH DESIGN Research design is a logical and systematic plan prepared for directing a research study. The research design of this study is descriptive in nature. It constitutes the blueprint for the collection, measurement and analysis of data. This study describes the wage system prevailing in the industries,

LABOUR RESOURCE CENTRE SAVE, TIRUPPUR

A STUDY ON GARMENT PRODUCTION MOBILITY IN TIRUPPUR

garment market price fixation, trends in production and sales, factors influencing for large influx of immigrants in the creation of sweatshops, type of occupations the workers engaged, assurances rendered by the management, social security benefits available, and implementation of wage settlements.

5.b. LIMITATIONS OF THE STUDY Larger samples were not collected due to the job task of the workers and they have an illusory fear of being intimated by the employers, if the facts about their garment industries are disclosed.

6. INDUSTRIAL SURVEY The industrial survey was conducted in the Tiruppur industrial quarters to explore the prevailing wage system in the garment export oriented industries to disclose the top brand producing garment export companies. Since the industrial managements are more conscious in not disclosing their companies statistical data to outside persons, despite the research team collected the data through from known Personnel Executives and Managers. 25 companies were studies in this study that export major international brands. These companies Based on these 25 industries available data the report was prepared.

6.i. GARMENT BRANDS Absolutely, all the garment industries are producing knitted garments of all kinds of men, women, children and sports wears based on the procured work orders from the buyers. A majority of the sampled industries are exporting the brands such as Jacquard, Trends, Provouge and Fulchand, 32 percent of the garment industries exports Jammie,

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Adidas, Basics and Thumps, 20 percent of the garment industries exports Tibre, Givo, Stickler and Vivia. United States is the prominent exporting country for most of the industries (76%) supply the brands, next comes, Swizterland, Canada and United Kingdom and then followed by Germany, Netherland, Australia, United Arab Emirates, Singapore, South Africa and Kenya. In the post quota regime and in the aftermath of the US-China textile pact, the garment industries are having a competitive edge with China due to its mass production, despite, in no way it seems to affect the garment exports of Tiruppur garment industries, since the pact ends by 2008. 6.ii. PRODUCTION CAPACITY Most (32%) of sampled industries are manufacturing and exporting garments in the ranges of 50000 to 80000 pieces per month. One fifth of the sampled industries are producing capacity in the continuum of 80000 and 110000 pieces. An equal proportionate of sampled industries (16%) produce the knitted garments in the ranges of 20000 50000 pieces and above 140000 pieces per month each. 6.iii. ANNUAL TURNOVER OF THE COMPANIES Annual sales turnover of the garment industries in Tiruppur shows that seven tenth of the sampled industries had made an annual turnover of rupees 7 crores to 9 crores, and more than five tenth of the industries had an annual turnover of rupees 9 crores to 11 crores. Three tenth of the industries had an annual turnover of above 9 crores, two tenth of the industries made sales turnover of rupees 5 crores to 3 crores and more than one tenth of the industries of annual sales turnover in the ranges of rupees 11 crores to 13 crores.

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6.iv. MINIMUM WAGE All the leading sampled garment industries they pay a minimum wage of Rs.87.72 per shift for Cutter and tailor, Rs.50.06 per shift for checking workers, Rs.45.11 per shift for sewing workers, Rs.43.87 per shift for Helper and Rs. 35.08 per shift for Rectifier. The workers who engage in continuous one shift get dearness allowance of Rs.38.91 and 5 percent of increment irrespective of all categories of workers.

6.v. WORKING HOURS Most of the garment industries in Tiruppur have fixed the regular working hours start at 8.30 am and finish at 11.30 pm. Most of these industries adopt one and half shifts i.e. 12 hours, total intermission hours is one hour. For a week most of the workers work for 60 to 80 hours per week irrespective of Sunday. Table 1: Time Schedule of the Regular Working Hours Time 08.30 am to 10.30 am 10.30 am to 10.45 am 10.45 am to 12.30 am 1.15 pm to 3.15 pm 3.15 pm to 3.30 pm 3.30 pm to 5.45 pm 5.45 pm to 6.00 pm Duration and activity Work for 2 hours Tea break for 15 minutes Work for 1 hour and 45 minutes Work for 2 hours 15 minutes tea break Work for 2 hours and 15 minutes Intermission for 15 minutes

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6.00 pm to 8.30 pm 8.30 pm to 8.45 pm 8.45 pm to 11.30 pm

Working hours for 2 hours and 30 minutes Supper Working hours for 2 hours and 30 minutes

There is no proper regulation system followed in the industries concern to weekly off and on casual and earned leave days. Table 6 shows the time schedule of the regular working hours. Except weekly off, none of the leave system is maintained in the industries and the workers are unaware of taking such leaves. Workers who had put their service more than five years have sparse knowledge on earned and casual leaves. Thus, they are ignorant of their workers rights.

7. DATA COLLECTION USING INTERVIEW SCHEDULE Out of the total garment workers in Tiruppur, 120 garment workers were picked up for collecting data using interview schedule. Based on accessibility and availability of the workers, the interviews were conducted. Initially, the workers were hesitant and scared to furnish information, later after the intervention of the research team; they were convinced and then supplied the needed data. 8. ANALYSIS AND INTERPRETATION The collected data was collated and fed into the computer using statistical package for social sciences (SPSS). Based on the objectives of the study, the data were analysed for interpretation and presented with statistical inferences using charts and tables.

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CHART 1: AGE DISTRIBUTION OF THE RESPONDENTS


41 % 38 % 45 40 35 PERCENTAGE 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 18-27 28-37 38-47 48 and above 5% 16 %

AGE GROUP

AGE GROUP In human growth and retardation, age plays a vital biological transition and which cannot be prevented and with relevant to the study it would project the productivity working age group of the garment industries. Chart 1 shows the age distribution of the workers who are involved as garment workers, it is apparent that majority (41%) of the workers were in the adult age group of 28 to 37 years and least (5%) among the total workers were in the threshold of the old ages of 48 years and above. Considerably 38 percent of the workers were in the young ages of 38 to 47 years. 16 percent of the workers were in the middle age group of 38

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to 47 years. It is evident from the analysed data that nearly four fifth of the workers were in the productive young ages of 18 to 37 years, and thus, the garment industries prefer more workers in these ages.

Chart 2: Gender Distribution

45% Male Female 55%

Gender Distribution Gender is an important sexual characteristic that points out the male and female working population distribution, concern to this study this factor would give a picture on gender variation in the garment industries in Tiruppur. Chart 2 shows the gender distribution of the workers. Just a variation of 5 percent exists between male (55%) and female population (45%) in the garment industries. It could be inferred that in a working population of 0.3 million garment workers, the majority of the population represent males, not much difference in line with female population was observed. Thus, the current trend is that the garment employers are preferring women workers to avoid unionization of workers and it could be easy for them to handle the conserved women than the exuberant men workers, who havent sensitised about their labour rights.

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Table 2: Category of Workers Category Helper Singar Overlock Checking Flatlock Rectifier Total Percentage 45.83 16.67 12.50 10.00 8.33 6.67 100.00

Category of Workers Category of workers, in this study context, is attributed as economic indicator, which would specify the nature of work involved in garment industries. Table 2 shows the category of workers in garment industries. Many workers (45.83%) were engaged as helpers in pressing and packing sections and a sizeable proportion (16.67%) of workers were employed in the garment industries as singars, 12.50 percent of them were engaged in Overlock, 10 percent of the workers in checking section, 8.33 percent of the workers in flatlock division and 6.67 percent of the workers engaged as rectifiers. Nearly one third of the workers were engaged in stitching. It is evident from the analysed data that two third of the workers were engaged in ironing and packing sections as helpers, thus, labour intensive plays a major role, as the garment employers do not have any technological advancement tools in India.

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TABLE 3: Education Level of the Workers S.No. 1 2 3 4 5 Educational Qualification No education 1st to 8th standards 9th to 12th standards Technical education Degree Total Percentage (%) 25 34 33 8 0 100

Education provides a person with analytical and informative abilities and enables one to have an equity status with others. Educational standard of the workers is presented in the above table, from which it can be projected that more than three fifth (67%) of the workers had school education in the continuum of first to twelfth standards, paradoxically, one fourth (25%) of the workers had not stepped into school and smelled the taste of the education. Just 8 per cent of the workers who have entered the arena of stitching sections have technical education and none had done degree course. The data is apparent to disclose that blue collar jobs educational standards have not attained the benchmark in par with white collar jobs.

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Table 4: Monthly Income of the Workers S. No. 1 2 3 4 5 Monthly Income Rs. 1001 Rs.2500 Rs. 2501 Rs.4000 Rs. 4001 Rs. 5500 Rs. 5001 Rs. 6500 Above Rs. 6501 Percentage

43.33 31.67 11.67 9.16 4.17 100.00

Total

Economic indicator is one of the essential yardsticks, which determines the earning capacity of the workers in the garment industries. Table 4 gives a vivid picture on the family income of the workers, it can be inferred that more than two fifth (43.33%) of the workers were falling in the income group of Rs.1001 to Rs.2500 and followed by 31.67 percent of the workers who were in the income ranges of Rs. 2501 to Rs.4000, 11.67 percent in the range of Rs.4001 to Rs.5500, 9.16 percent in the continuum of Rs.5001 to Rs. 6500 and just 4.17 percent in the monthly income group of above Rs.6500. The monthly income of most of the workers had not improvised, unskilled helpers are the sufferer who were striving for fulfilling their subsistence needs.

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Table 5: Correlation between Caste and Monthly Income of the Family Category of workers Category of workers Sig. (2-tailed) N Monthly income Sig. (2-tailed) N 0.002 120 . 120 Pearson Correlation . 120 -0.312 0.002 120 1 Pearson Correlation 1 Monthly income -0.312

** Correlation is significant at 0.01 level (2-tailed). The above correlation table shows Pearson correlation coefficients, significance values, and the number of cases with non-missing values for category of workers and monthly income of the workers. The correlation coefficient for category of workers and Monthly income of the workers was -0.312. Since -0.312 is relatively close to -1, this indicated that category of workers and monthly income of the workers were negatively correlated. The significance level or p-value is 0.002, which indicates a very low significance. The small significance level indicates that category of workers and monthly income of the family were significantly positively correlated. In accordance to category of workers the income varies i.e. helpers and rectifiers are relatively earning less income than overlock, flatlock and singars. N is the number of cases with non-missing values.

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Chart 3: W orkers Level of Experience in Garments


60 50 40 30 20 10 0

Percentage

51.67 18.33 20.83 Less than 1 y ear 1 - 2 y ears 2 - 3 y ears 9.17 More than 3 y ears

No. of years

Experiences in garment industries, signifies the knowledge and skill acquired in the concern garments at various categories of works, and the involvement of the workers as well as the employers attitude in keeping the experienced workers in their fold. Chart 3 projects workers level of experience in garments. More than half of the sampled workers had been working for more than two years and less than three years. One fifth of the sampled workers were working for a period of one to two years and one tenth of the workers were working for less than one year. A sharp decline was observed that 9.17 percent of the sampled workers only working more than 3 years, which divulge that either the skilled workers are refuted to be taken as permanent workers by the employers. Health indicators Integral demographic indicators are health services for the workers in the garment sectors. Working Conditions Working conditions, a major factor, this encourages not only the job to be done but dignifies the human working at the environment and

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protecting their health condition against unpleasant hazardous condition. 78 percent of the workers worked in poor working conditions and 22 percent of the workers worked in a moderate condition. The succeeding table shows the level of working conditions in the garment industries. The analysed data projects that most of the garment industries havent maintained proper ventilation and circulation of air, free from dust and fume, seat knitted with plastic wires and supply of gloves. It could be observed from the table data that 34.86 percent of the workers had felt that the companies they work have low safeguard measures for prevention of hair struck while stitching. A considerable proportion (30.71%) of the workers stated that the garment companies had not made any protective gears and fabrication work. It could be stated from the analysed data that the garment industries who make a clean chit of projecting themselves as quality certified companies in papers, in reality, fail to do so. The trade unions and workers at large have to organise at massive scale to address this issue. Table 6: Level of Working Conditions Items Safeguard measures for hair struck in 42 (34.86) stitching machines Proper ventilation 61 (50.63) 21 (17.43) Free from dusts and 65 43 (35.69) 78 (64.74) 40 (33.2) 16 (13.28) 21 (17.43) 15 69 (57.27) 9 (7.47) 120 (100) Level of Working Conditions Low Moderate High Total

and circulation of air Proper lightning

120 (100)

120 (100) 120 (100)

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fumes Protective gears for fabrication works Seat knitted with

(53.95) 37 (30.71) 82 (68.06) 59 (48.97) 64 (53.12) 28 (23.24) 45 (37.35)

(12.45) 19 (15.77) 11 (9.13) 16 (13.28)

120 (100)

plastic wires Supply and usage of gloves

120 (100)

120 (100)

Working Hours and Days Working hours, a prime matter in ascertaining the workers management relationship based on standard hours of work. Most of the workers worked more than 15 hours. Hours spent by the workers at work spot were 90 hours per week (51.67%), 84 hours per week (23.33%), 72 hours per week (15.83%) and 60 hours per week (9.17%), this is shown
Chart 4: Distribution of Weekly Hours 60 51.67

Percentage of workers

50 40 30 20 10 0 90 hours 84 hours 72 hours 60 hours Weekly working hours 23.33 15.83 9.17

in chart 4. The mean value of hours the workers worked per week was 83 hours. The mean value of hours spent at the garment industries per day was 13.83 hours. The data show that the employers extract work in

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breach of section 51 and 54 of the Factories Act, 1948, which clearly states that no adult worker shall be required or allowed to work in a factory for more than 48 hours in any week and 9 hours in any day respectively. After the post end of quota regime, garment exporters in Tiruppur, making a mass production to woo buyers in US and Europe countries, furthermore, they have a competitive edge with China garment exporters after the US China pact. But the ultimate sufferers are the garment workers who toil for more hours with fewer benefits. Rest hours for the workers were 1 hour for taking food and tea and snacks (73.33%), half an hour for taking food (22.5%) and more than one hour (4.17%). Compensation off available for the workers were regular weekly off (29.16%), once in a month (36.67%) and one day off in a fortnight (17.5%). It is evident from the above analysed data that the garment employers squeeze the physical labour of the workers by getting quality and quantity work from them for prolonged hours of work. The clauses of Factories Act are being put under control by the colossal garment employers.

Chart 5: Distribution of Bonus


Percentage of workers

100 80 60 40 20 0

76.36 36.92 53.85 10.83 Rs. 1501 2500 Rs.2501 3500 Rs.3501 4500 3.33 1.67 Above Rs.4501 Piece rate Time rate

Bonus Amount

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BONUS AND INCENTIVES An employee in a business establishment worked for not less than 30 days is eligible for getting bonus. It is a statutory liability on the part of the garment employers. Majority (66%) of the workers havent received bonus and the remaining 34 per cent of the respondents had received the bonus. Among the workers who received the bonus, workers having job work on piece rate basis were more in number (89%) and less number of workers who received wages on time rate basis. From the chart on distribution of bonus, the piece rate workers had received the highest bonus amount of more than Rs.4501, whereas, workers on time rate basis have received at the maximum Rs. 3500. Moreover, none of the workers expressed that they have received any kind of incentives issued based on the work experiences. Women workers are being deprived of bonus, due to their ignorance about labour laws and rights and moreover, the garment industries ensure that the workers are not imprinted in the muster roll.

CONTINUOUS SHIFTS Most of the sampled workers had work in continuous shift, amongst the sampled workers 79 percent of them had continuously worked for 3 to 4 shifts once in a fortnight in a span of last 6 months. Paucity of workers due to flourishing agricultural activities in the recent monsoon rain and the intensity of mass production to export for the Wal-Mart and to compete with China manufacturers, since they deliver the product within three weeks, had pushed the workforce in a mechanized state to sew and pack the garment products on a large scale. Eventually, the workforce at their middle ages would have severe health repercussions, which eventually ruins their earning potential.

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OVERTIME AND PAYMENT Capacity expansion after the end of the quota regime and export of garments to the largest retailer, Wal-mart, had an adverse effect on the workers, who work on overtime basis, three fifth of the workers had expressed that they hadnt received any overtime payment, where as two fifth of the workers had received payment for the overtime work carried and among whom just 25 percent of them had received 20 percent of an additional Bata for the overtime work. Table 7: Number of Employees State Insurance Beneficiaries Category of workers Helper Singar Overlock Checking Flatlock Rectifier Total ESI Yes 5 (25) 2 (13.33) 2 (20) 9 (7.5) No 55 (100) 15 (75) 13 (86.67) 12 (100) 8 (80) 8 (100) 111 (92.5) Total 55 (100) 20 (100) 15 (100) 12 (100) 10 (100) 8 (100) 120 (100)

EMPLOYEES STATE INSURANCE (ESI) Employee State Insurance Act would gauge the level of provision of social insurance to garment workers in case of sickness, maternity and employment injury. Just 7.5 percent of the sampled workers had been covered under Employees State Insurance benefits, which is discernible from the preceding table on number of employees state insurance

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beneficiaries and thus, majority (92.5) of the workers were not covered under the ESI schemes. A few workers in the categories of Singar (25), overlock (13.33) and flatlock (20) were the insured workmen. It is discernible that the employers were least concerned about providing the ESI benefits to the workers to muster them as regular employees and enabling them to get the benefits covered under the purview of the ESI Act.

Table 8: Number of Employees Provident Fund Recipients Category of workers Helper Singar Overlock Checking Flatlock Rectifier Total EPF Yes 8 (40) 2 (13.33) 2 (20) 12 (10) No 55 (100) 12 (60) 13 (86.67) 12 (100) 8 (80) 8 (100) 108 (90) Total 55 (100) 20 (100) 15 (100) 12 (100) 10 (100) 8 (100) 120 (100)

EMPLOYEES PROVIDENT FUND (EPF) Employees Provident Fund is a vital indicator to measure the social security benefits in the distribution of provident funds and family pension and deposit linked insurance schemes for garment employees. From the table 8 on number of employees provident fund recipients, it could be ascertained that more than four fifth of the workers were not entitled for the employee provident funds and just one fifth of the workers were

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entitled for enjoying the benefits of the EPF. The stitching workers as singar (40), overlock (13.33) and flatlock (20) are the ones who had been covered under the EPF schemes and who have a ceiling earning amount of less than Rs. 6500. Whether contract or permanent workers, they have to be covered under EPF and most of the garment industries have the required employees more than 20. The employers have agile enough in ensuring that the workers are not enlisted in the industries muster roll as new employees to avoid the employers contribution in the PF.

UNIONISATION Trade Unions affiliated to various political parties and propelled to achieve workers right when it has been violated by the employees and in specific by the garment employers. The data in the table 9 on association of the workers with the trade unions, most of the workers (87.5%) disclosed that they were not enlisted in any trade unions, which shows that either they were unaware of the trade union activities in the region or having illusory fear of being crushed by the colossal giants. Only 12.5 percent of the workers had associated and joined in a trade union, who had more experiences in the stitching compared to other workers in other sections. None of the women workers have enlisted in any unions, which show that the women workers are low in trade union association and activities. The trade unions had to be educated in organising the workers who are novice to the industrial work and they could focus in enlisting the women workers are on the high rise in the flourishing garment sectors in Tiruppur. Workers rights to organise, rights to collective bargaining are questioned, if they are deprived of associating themselves in a union, which strive with them for their claiming their rights.

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Table 9: Association of the Workers with the Trade Unions Category of workers Association with union Yes Male Helper Female Male Singar Female Male Overlock Female Male Checking Female Male Flatlock Female Male Rectifier Female 9 (50) 4 (36.37) 2 (28.57) 15 (12.5) No 21 (100) 34 (100) 9 (50) 2 (100) 7 (63.63) 4 (100) 4 (100) 8 (100) 5 (71.43) 3 (100) 5 (100) 3 (100) 105 (87.5) 21 (100) 34 (100) 18 (100) 2 (100) 11(100) 4(100) 4 (100) 8 (100) 7 (100) 3 (100) 5 (100) 3 (100) 120 (100)

Gender

Total

Total

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Table 10: Distribution the Wage Received by the Workers on a Day Basis Category / Wage Helper Singar Overlock Checking Flatlock Rectifier Total Below Rs. 70 21 (38.18) (75) 5 (41.67) (17.86) 2 (25) (7.14) 28 (23.33) (100) Rs. 71 90 32 (58.18) (71.11) 7 (58.33) (15.56) 6 (75) (13.33) 45 (37.5) (100) 27 (22.5) (100) 14 (11.67) (100) 6 (5) (100) 7 (70) (25.92) 3 (30) (21.43) Rs. 91 110 2 (3.64) (7.41) 10 (50) (37.04) 8 (53.33) (29.63) 6 (30) (42.86) 5 (33.33) (35.71) 4 (20) (66.67) 2 (13.34) (33.33) Rs. 111 130 Above Rs. 131 Total 55 (100) (45.83) 20 (100) (16.67) 15 (100) (12.50) 12 (100) (10.00) 10 (100) (8.33) 8 (100) (6.67) 120 (100) (100)

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Wage received by the Workers Wages, the price paid for work done, which is calculated based on time rate or piece rate scale in Tiruppur garment industries. Table 10 shows the wage received by the workers on a day basis. Most (37.5%) of the workers earned wages of Rs. 71 to Rs. 90, followed by 23.33 percent of the workers in the earnings of below Rs. 70, 22.5 percent of the workers were paid in the wage ranges of Rs. 91 to Rs. 110, 11.67 percent of the workers in the continuum of Rs. 111 to Rs. 130 and 5 percent of the workers earned wages above Rs. 130.

Table 11: Workers Grievance Redressal Item Demands for wage regulation Complaints about the incentive Complaints about a particular Yes 112 (93.33) 116 (96.67) 115 (95.83) 25 (20.83) Unsatisfactory conditions of work Inadequacy services of safety and health 78 (65) 82 (68.33) 95 (79.17) 42 (35) 38 (31.67) 120 (100) 120 (100) 120 (100) 5 (4.16) 120 (100) 4 (3.33) 120 (100) No 8 (6.67) Total 120 (100)

supervisor/manager Improper job assignment

GRIEVANCES REDRESSAL A worker has his own discontentment pertinent to work at the workplace, it is his right to think or feel that an item is wrong at the workplace. Table 11 shows the grievances expressed by the workers, which hadnt explicated not to the management but vented when

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interviewed. Excluding improper job assignment discontentment, majority of the workers had grievances to make demand for wage regulation, in need of incentives, to resolve problems with supervisor or manager, to make structural adjustment in the working conditions and to provide adequate safety and health measures. The data clearly specifies the garment industries do have proper grievance handling procedures to address and resolve the workers grievances, despite the workers didnt have the freedom to express their grievances to the management. There is no proper grievances redressal system adopted in the sampled factories. The workers express their grievances to the immediate supervisor or to the Manager, which is of traditional socialising approaches, but there is no fixed personnel policy adopted by the factories to redress the grievances of the workers. State and Central governments need to look the issue for enforcing the garment industries to implement grievance redressal machinery effectively. Table 12: Workers Benefits Workers Benefits Item Yes No No response Payment for health and 22 (18.33) 9 (37.5) 2 (1.67) 3 (2.5) 92 (76.67) 111 (92.5) 118 (98.33) 106 (88.33) 6 (5) 11 (9.17) Total

security benefits Payment for time not worked Payment for special duties Premium payments WORKERS BENEFITS

120 (100) 120 (100) 120 (100) 120 (100)

A worker who work for the profit of the employer have to be given monetary benefits in the case of holiday pay, pension, medical insurance and separation pay. Table 12 projects the workers benefits received, a

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majority (76.67%) of the workers had not enjoyed the payment for health and security benefits such as life and medical insurances, saving plans and supplement worker benefits. Many workers (92.5%), who got sick or emergency leave or call back time, were not made any payment for the time not worked. A preponderance (98.33%) of the workers were not paid for the labour contract negotiations, which is based on special duties. These payments for the workers benefits have to be provided by the garment industries that hire them, and need to provide them with financial protection. Table 13: Availability of Labour Services Item Canteen facilities Transport facilities Financial and legal services Recreational programmes Educational services Medical services Storing and drying facilities Sitting facilities clothing Availability of labour Services Yes No 28 92 (23.33) (76.67) 16 104 (13.33) (86.67) 120 (100) 120 (100) 120 (100) 36 (30) 84 (70) 104 (86.67) 75 (62.5) 112 (93.33) Total 120 (100) 120 (100) 120 (100) 120 (100) 120 (100) 120 (100) 120 (100) 120 (100) 120 (100) 120 (100)

16 (13.33) 45 (37.5) Washing facilities 8 (6.67) Sanitation facilities 120 (100) AVAILABILITY OF LABOUR SERVICES

Services provided to the workers who make tireless effort in yielding productivity in garment sectors, what is the proportion of facilities offered to the workers, is extracted through the table 13, which shows the availability of worker services made by the garment employers. Absolutely, none of the workers had enjoyed the financial legal services,

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recreational programmes and educational services; this was an effect of the garment employers shunning their responsibilities to offer such services. First aid services and other medical services are considerably provided to the workers as projected by 30 percent of the workers, but majority of the workers felt that the companies had not provided proper medical services to them. Most of the companies had not supplied the required storing and drying clothing facilities for the workers. Jobs such as tailoring are performed on sitting posture except that absolutely all the workers were not provided with sitting, and they all through the working hours had performed on standing postures, this might have adverse physical effects in the life of the workers. Most of the workers (76.67%) had stated that they didnt have cafeteria facilities instituted by the garment industry. Just 13.33 percent of the workers had the facility to reach their industry by their company bus, whereas, many workers (86.67%) had not enjoyed such facilities. A positive indication that could be observed from the data was that all the workers had the sanitation facilities in the garment industry. Trade unions had to make a strong collective bargaining at the negotiation table to provide worker welfare programmes by the garment industrialists.

Table 14: Status of Various items pertinent to Workplace Items Low Income Status Working Condition Social Security 90 (75) 53 (44.17) 110 (91.67) Level of Status Moderate 25 (20.83) 52 (43.33) 5 (4.17) High 5 (4.17) 15 (12.5) 5 (4.17) Total 120 (100) 120 (100) 120 (100)

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Measures Bonus Incentives and 253 (70.28) 82 (22.78) 25 (6.94) 360 (100)

LEVEL OF WORKING STATUS The condition of workers concern to income, working condition, social security measures and bonus and incentives was elicited from the workers perception. The preceding table shows the status of various items pertinent to Workplace, three fourth of the workers had low income status. Social security measures such as ESI, EPF, workmen compensation, etc., promoted by the garment industries were observed to be low in status, which was revealed by most (91.67%) of the workers. Most (70.28%) of the workers are disappointed with the low bonus and incentives that are paid by the industries. Though the variation between low and moderate status on working condition is ignorable, it could be demonstrated that the garment industries which deals with spun cotton threaded materials, need to maintain an excellent working environment, i.e., free from dust fume, with good ventilation and air circulation, but these have been placated by the employers as maintaining quality structure only in records but not in practice. Table 15: Workers Knowledge on Job Category / Knowledge Helper Singar Overlock Checking Poor Level of Knowledge on Job Fair 8 (14.55) 2 (10) 1 (6.67) 3 (25) Good 29 (52.73) 6 (30) 11 (73.33) 6 (50) Excellent 18 (32.72) 12 (60) 3 (20) 3 (25) Total 55 (100) 20 (100) 15 (100) 12 (100)

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Flatlock Rectifier Total

14 (11.67)

6 (60) 6 (75) 64 (53.33)

4 (40) 2 (25) 42 (35)

10 (100) 8 (100) 120 (100)

WORKERS KNOWLEDGE ON JOB Workers knowledge on job was observed to extract the evaluation ability of the workers to assess his own job abilities, from the preceding table that data disclose that the insight ability of the workers to assess their work on their own with optimistic view, in which, more than half of the sampled workers had evaluated their job performance as good and 35 percent of the workers had accentuated that the work they render is excellent. Workers as singars had evaluated their work to be excellent in a high proportion (60%). Retrospect focus gives a dimension that most of the workers carry out the work with quality, thereby, the garment employers get contented by meeting the customers requirements, but how far it is being reflected in monetary benefits for workers, is to be questioned. None of the workers had graded their work to be poor. It could be inferred that most of the industrial employers do not get the views and suggestions of the workers pertinent to their job assignment, for improvisation of work standards. Table 16: Level of Supervisors Cooperativeness Category / Knowledge Helper Singar Overlock Checking Managers / Supervisors Cooperativeness Poor 36 (65.46) 12 (60) 8 (53.33) 9 (75) Fair 7 (12.73) 4 (20) 4 (26.67) 1 (8.33) Good 8 (14.55) 1 (5) 2 (13.33) 2 (16.67) Excellent 4 (7.27) 3 (15) 1 (6.67) Total 55 (100) 20 (100) 15 (100) 12 (100)

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Flatlock Rectifier Total

6 (60) 4 (50) 75 (62.5)

3 (30) 2 (25) 21 (17.5)

1 (10) 2 (50) 16 (13.33)

8 (6.67)

10 (100) 8 (100) 120 (100)

LEVEL OF SUPERVISORS COOPERATIVENESS Supervision is not a mere close surveillance on the individual workers performance but in a larger perspective it is to making a coordination work with the workers in the aspects of delegating the work, resolving the problems existing at workplace, inducing safety and health measures than and motivating of the the total workers. sampled When the workers expressed were their questioned on the coordination efforts of the manager or supervisor, more three fifth workers discontentment on the poor coordination of the supervisor/manager with the workers. This is due to the more leaning aspects of the line managers and supervisors towards the management. Workers as checking, flatlock and rectifier, not rated their immediate higher officials coordination effort as excellent. A less proportion (17.5%) of workers had expressed that the supervisors are fair in doing coordinated work (shown in table 16). The managers and supervisors of the garment industries need to be given proper orientation on workers perspectives. On labour education programmes, the line managers and supervisors need to be mobilized to participate in the programmes, so as to sensitise them on workers rights. Table 17: Distribution of Wage Increases Category of workers Gender Male Helper Female Male Share of Labour (Per Cent) 17.50 28.33 15.00 Wage Increase (Per Cent) 0 0 + 28

Singar

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Female Male Overlock Female Male Checking Female Male Female Rectifier Total Male Female

1.67 9.17 3.33 3.33 6.67 5.83 2.50 4.17 2.50 120

+ 15 + 18 +8 +6 +3 + 18 + 11 +8 +6 100

Flatlock

DISTRIBUTION OF WAGE INCREASES Comparing the starting wage and the latest wage, the distribution of wages is not uniform. Table 17 represents distribution of wage increases. Based on regression analysis of the data of the starting and latest wages, it is observed that the skilled male workers in the occupation of singar, overlock and flatlock received higher wages that the female workers, this shows a clear gender discrimination prevailing in the garment industries. Helpers of both genders had no increase in wages. Male workers as checkers and rectifiers had received higher wages than the female workers in the same identical work. It could be estimated that the women workers are treated as temporary workers and resulting in high turnover, thus, the garment employers use them as labours of no voice. Moreover, the supply of unskilled labours is high, thus, the employers do not have any pressure in increasing the wages, in particular for women workers.

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8. FOCUSED GROUP DISCUSSION A focused-group interview was conducted for analyzing aspects of workplace discrimination with relevance to psychological and emotional abuses. The workers were chosen based on criteria: genders and different category of work in the garment industry. The focused group interview was conducted with 7 men workers, who represent different industries. The interview with men workers lasted for one hour. Two researchers moderated the interview and with use of a semi-structured tool, the questions were put to them. The qualitative inferences of the focused-group interview are: Men workers are explosive in revealing the issue concern to workplace discrimination, most of them expressed their concern that the industry expects them to produce more work quickly, efficiently and adequately and five of them agreed that due to this factor that at times they left the work. It is evident that the employers are more of task oriented than of establishing a labour-market relation. Concern to unionization, one worker expressed, Garment industries in Tiruppur now become to form their own unions free from political affiliation, and enlist members of pro-management personalities. Another worker stated, I have no time to associate with union members due to hectic work. All the workers accepted that the trade union is must in an industry but it should be an effective union striving to make demands for claiming the labour rights. The garment employers with money power buy union members just to crush the voice of the garment workers against any concerted and coordinated effort for claiming their rights. It was interesting to observe that marriage among co-workers has become common in Tiruppur, as in most of the garment industries; this has been transpired, as it could be confirmed from the supplied information.

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On question on sexual harassment, some men workers agreed that supervisors and managers in some industries had sexually abused women workers, and they showed their anger that it can be only vented but not questioned, as the management are in support of them because they do not want their industrial name to be brought to the forefront. One worker who after prolonged hesitation divulged, Please do not disclose my name in any circumstances, I know a garment industry who had supplied garment women workers to content the foreign buyers and other higher officials of the region. On further interrogation he revealed that the women workers not went out of interest or money but on intimidation of the employer, in these spoilsports, Kerala girls are more exploited, due to their fair skin and color. But he refuted to reveal the name of the industry. It is evident that women are treated as fleshy being and inferior in position, they are more vulnerable and susceptible to sexual harassment, and this seems to be in high proportion in Tiruppur. A careful drafting of sexual harassment policy and then conducting periodic and effective education programs based on those policies will create a zero-tolerance attitude. Pertinent to health problems most of the workers accepted that occupation related diseases such as back pain while stitching, inhaling problem while collecting and dumping the garments, piles due to long hour of sitting at a place while stitching and knee pain for those standing for more than 13 hours, are high in the garment industries. During the focused-group interview three workers were mouth-tied but they nodded their head for others view. They might be having a fear of being exposed, if they disclose the workplace issues.

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9. MAJOR FINDINGS It is apparent that majority of the workers are in the adult age group of 28 to 37 years. Least (5%) among the total workers are in the old ages of 48 years and above. Nearly four fifth of the workers are in the productive young ages of 18 to 37 years. Women workers are observed high in garment industries in equal proportion with the men workers. Many workers (45.83%) are engaged as helpers in pressing and packing sections. A sizeable proportion (16.67%) of the workers are employed in the garment industries as singars. 12.50 percent of them are engaged in Overlock, 10 percent of the workers in checking section, 8.33 percent of the workers in flatlock division and 6.67 percent of the workers engaged as rectifiers. More than three fifth (67%) of the workers have school education in the continuum of first to twelfth standards, paradoxically, one fourth (25%) of the workers have not stepped into school and smelled the taste of the education. More than two fifth (43.33%) of the workers are falling in the income group of Rs.1001 to Rs.2500 and followed by 31.67 percent of the workers who are in the income ranges of Rs. 2501 to Rs.4000, 11.67 percent in the range of Rs.4001 to Rs.5500, 9.16 percent in the continuum of Rs.5001 to Rs. 6500 and just 4.17 percent in the monthly income group of above Rs.6500. More than half of the sampled workers are working for more than two years and less than three years. Most of the workers worked more than 15 hours. Hours spent by the workers at work spot are 90 hours per week (51.67%), 84 hours per week (23.33%), 72 hours per week (15.83%) and 60 hours per week (9.17%).

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Rest hours for the workers are 1 hour for taking food and tea and snacks (73.33%), half an hour for taking food (22.5%) and more than one hour (4.17%). Compensation off available for the workers are regular weekly off (29.16%), once in a month (36.67%) and one day off in a fortnight (17.5%). Majority of the workers did not receive bonus. 79 percent of the workers are being engaged in continuous work for 3 to 4 shifts once in a fortnight in a span of last 6 months. Three fifth of the workers do not receive any overtime payment. Just 7.5 percent of the sampled workers are being covered under Employees State Insurance benefits. More than four fifth of the workers are not entitled for the employee provident funds and just one fifth of the workers are entitled for enjoying the benefits of the EPF. Most of the workers (87.5%) are not enlisted in any trade unions. Most (37.5%) of the workers get wages in the ranges of Rs. 71 to Rs. 90, followed by 23.33 percent of the workers in the earnings of below Rs. 70, 22.5 percent of the workers are paid in the wage ranges of Rs. 91 to Rs. 110, 11.67 percent of the workers in the continuum of Rs. 111 to Rs. 130 and 5 percent of the workers earned wages above Rs. 130.

Majority of the workers are having grievances to make demand for wage regulation, in need of incentives, to resolve problems with supervisor or manager, to make structural adjustment in the working conditions and to provide adequate safety and health measures.

A majority (76.67%) of the workers are not enjoyed the payment for health and security benefits such as life and medical insurances, saving plans and supplement worker benefits.

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A preponderance (98.33%) of the workers are not paid for the labour contract negotiations, which is based on special duties.

None of the workers had enjoyed the financial legal services, recreational programmes and educational services.

Most of the workers (76.67%) had stated that they didnt have cafeteria facilities instituted by the garment industry.

Just 13.33 percent of the workers had the facility to reach their industry by their company bus, whereas, many workers (86.67%) had not enjoyed such facilities.

Three fourth of the workers had lower income status. Social security measures such as ESI, EPF, workmen compensation, etc., promoted by the garment industries are observed to be low in status, which is revealed by most (91.67%) of the workers.

Most (70.28%) of the workers are disappointed with the low bonus and incentives that are paid by the industries.

More than half of the sampled workers had evaluated their job performance as good and 35 percent of the workers had accentuated that the work they render is excellent.

Workers as singars had evaluated their work to be excellent in a high proportion (60%).

A less proportion (17.5%) of workers had expressed that the supervisors are fair in doing coordinated work. The managers and supervisors of the garment industries need to be given proper orientation on workers perspectives.

Skilled male workers in the occupation of singar, overlock and flatlock received higher wages that the female workers.

From

the

focused

group

discussion,

the

data

reveal

that

psychological and sexual abuses are high in Tiruppur industries.

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10. RECOMMENDATIONS Based on the results, it can be observed that workplace violation is more prevalent are: Effective workplace violence prevention policy need to be drafted, which includes physical security, pre-employment screening, good termination practices, employee assistance programmes, etc. A careful drafting of sexual harassment policy and then conducting periodic and effective education programs based on those policies will create a zero-tolerance attitude. Workers must be education about what constitutes harassment. A massive campaign has to be conducted to sensitise the garment workers across the Tiruppur to know their labour rights. Violation of workers rights have to be discussed at international level and in which regional support needed to be garnered to get the workers mobilisation. Enabling the women garment workers in the process of developing their own collective organisation, sensitising to put forth a strong fight against all kinds of workplace discrimination. Federation among all unions needs to be initiated, shedding their difference of political affiliations and uniting for the common purpose of claiming the workers rights and preventing violation at workplace. The government of the country has to channelise the workers energy and power in a disciplined, organised and refined way and give a humanistic direction so that worker could, of their own volition, cooperate with one another in weathering the challenges posed by globalization and achieve economic prosperity. in garment industries, thus, in accordance to it, few recommendations are made for protecting the rights of the workers, they

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