You are on page 1of 19

Foundation Cookbook

Building Outer Can


Tools and Supplies:
(3) 1/2 inch electric impact wrenches (5) inch impact sockets J-hooks- take round bar and bend it into a "J" and then weld a plate on the top of the "J". the plate needs a 9/16" hole to accept a shackle.

NEED PICTURES

Setting Outer Can Dig hole that is the same height as the outer can and 2 foot larger in diameter.

Pick can using 3-20 foot slings with shackles and tail can with forklift

Once can is completely upright center over hole and then signal crane operator to lower can into hole.

Center can in excavation. Make sure you have enough clearance on all sides of can to meet engineering specifications.

Can needs to be level with high side of hole. Call supervisor to verify that placement of can is acceptable.

Place 2 plumb bobs on top of can 90 from each other, these plumb bobs should reach to within 1 of bottom of can.

Place eco blocks in 2 places 90 from each other and hook can to eco blocks using come alongs.

Using man basket, enter hole. Take shovels, pick, sledge hammer, and tape measure.

Using tools stated above, level can to +/- 1. Snug come alongs to keep can in place.

Fill any gaps between can and bottom of excavation with loose dirt from bottom of hole. Compact these areas so concrete can not run under can. Call supervisor so they can verify can is +- 1.

Remove plumb bobs and rigging on way out

Fill area between can and excavation with cement/slurry as per engineering specifications.

10 lifts then give cement/slurry cure time to avoid crushing can. Pay careful attention to distribute concrete/slurry evenly around can to avoid can movement (if can does move contact supervisor immediately). Check inside of can to make sure that no concrete/slurry is coming under can into the inside (if it does, stop immediately and contact supervisor). Concrete/slurry up to 4 feet from top of can. Let cure. Call electricians so they can install their fiber conduits and grounding. Continue to concrete/slurry until you have reached top of can. Using a concrete rake make a smooth level sidewalk around can for the outer form to set on. Dig pockets for inner can threaded rod.

Stuffing Bolts
Tools and Supplies:

Hoist-(YSFD-024-10-10 hoist with lug mounted trolley, purchased at Jack Rubin & Sons 310-635-5407, the sales man is Bill). 25 to 30 foot of 3/8 cable with loops and 1/4' shackles on both ends to go between hoist and bolts. Hooks that attach to cable and can grab bottom of anchor bolts. Moto-X shoulder pads (Must be worn by everybody that is in the hole while stuffing bolts. Generator. 100 foot extension cords.

Using a 10 foot strap, choke bolts and lower each bundle into the hole, spacing them evenly around the hole. Put plywood in bottom of hole if it is soft or muddy, so the bolts do not sink.

Center template over hole and crib evenly on all four corners in order to get the desired height from the engineering specifications. Pay special attention that cribbing is stacked in a fashion that it will not fall or shift.

Place trolley ring on top of template using crane or forklift.

Lower desired number of men into hole using crane and man basket (remove man basket from hole).

How ever number of bolt stuffing crews you have, have the same amount of men at the top guiding the bolts into the holes on the template.

Using the hoist, lower the hook to bottom of anchor bolt, hook the bolt then guide the anchor bolt through the template hole.

After bolt is thru hole, thread nut on it to the desired height specified by the engineer. After all bolts are stuffed, remove any extra bolts, and send man basket back in to get crew (pick up all trash prior to exiting hole). Remove trolley ring.

Pull bolt cage out of hole using crane and signal operator to move cage a safe distance from the hole.

Install embedment rings and splice plates. Make sure you put full nuts in the four leveling locations on the top and bottom of the embedment ring Hand tighten all nuts all the way around. Then use 2 wrench and pipe wrench to tighten nuts (pay special attention not to turn bolt, because if you do it will mess up the bolt elevation on top of the template). Check for bolt straightness, and to make sure they are not bowed (If they are loosen nut and adjust accordingly). Wrap wire around bottom of bolt to prevent nut from falling off.

Contact supervisor so they can inspect embedment ring.

Center bolt cage back over hole. Install rebar hoops as stated by engineer.

After all rebar hoops are installed, final set template centered in the hole (measure from outside anchor bolt to outer can in 4 spots 90 apart, tolerance is +-2). Shoot template in the same height as the top of your outside form, with a minimum of 15 between top of template and template frame. Reenter the hole using man basked and use #4 bar to center embedment ring. Wire tie top and bottom rebar on the inside and outside of embedment ring in 4 places 90 apart. Leave atleast 3 of rebar on the inside to make sure you get your clearance between the embedment ring and the inner can. Paint ground with bright paint where inner can should be set.

Setting Inner Can


Tools and Supplies:

Torch with atleast 100 of hose. 3/4 threaded rod

Hook up same rigging you used on outer can. Tail with forklift.

Center can over hole. Slowly lower can into hole, being careful not to move the template. Using spotlights make sure can is centered in the bottom of the hole and not touching embedment ring (3 min. clearance).

Set can on ground and take off rigging.

Torch holes in 4 places 90 apart(big enough for threaded rod to go thru) on inner can and outer can (where you dug the pockets), making sure the inner can holes are a few inches higher.

Center can in hole measuring from outer can to inner can, and secure with threaded rod in the 4 places where you torched the holes.

Make sure you use washers and flat plate on the inside and outside of both the inner and outer can to prevent movement.

Filling Inner Can


Tools and Supplies:
Tarp Shovel

Plug inner can with specified concrete from engineer (pay special attention that no concrete is running from under inner can.). If you believe this may be a problem, have 5 loads of crush run put in inner can before the placement of the concrete.

Place tarp over template frame into inner can to help prevent dirt from getting between inner and outer can. Fill can with dirt until you are 4 foot from top, then call electricians to come do the fiber conduits and grounding. Fill remainder of can with dirt, being extra careful not to spill any over the edge. When nearing the top it is best to use a worker to evenly spread out the dirt and make a level surface to as close to the top of the inner can as possible, without spilling dirt over the edge. Remove tarp.

Preparing Foundation for Structural Pour


Tools and Supplies: Tie wire Pliars Sprayers Wood Spacers for outside form

Place and bolt together outside form. Center outside form using wood spacers (make sure these are wired to
something so they cant fall into hole. Make sure outside form is level or higher than template.

Install foam blockouts over leveling nuts as specified by engineer.

Place cable tray in position as specified by engineer.

Install conduits (making sure to wire them to something so they wont fall) as specified by the engineer, foaming the ends to stop any concrete from entering them. Before tying rebar spray outer form, template and cable tray with form relaeas.

Tie rebar as specified by engineering, paying close attention to spacing


and clearances (min 3).

Ready for pour

Pouring Foundation
Tools and Supplies:
Generators Vibrators Shovels

Wet down foundation, paying special attention that there is no dirt or debris on embedment ring (if there is contact supervisor immediately).

Back concrete trucks up to the four sides.

Pour between outside form and bolts Watch for concrete balls and dispose of them.

Concrete shall be brought up uniformly and vibrated in accordance with ACI. The bottom 5 feet can be poured with slumps up to 7 and vibrated until the embedment ring has been completely surrounded.

Once you have reached to top, the concrete chute is moved into the middle of the foundation where it is completed.

Continue to vibrate concrete. Go all around the edge on the inside and outside of template to make sure concrete becomes flush with underside of template. Once foundation is full, make sure you have adequate concrete to fix any low spots.

Finish concrete with steel or wood trowel

Chamfer all edges. Spray with cure and seal.