Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Guide to
Kanchipuram (Kanchi)
THE CITY OF TEMPLES
By
His articles for the young is very popular in “The Young World section” of
THE HINDU.
His books on Hindu Saints, and Temples of Pilgrimage centers have been well
received in the religious circle. His book “Guide to Chennai” – a comprehensive
Guide – is popular amongst tourists visiting the city.
Preface:
While every effort is taken to maintain the authenticity there can be certain areas
which are debatable, as references are collected from historical and
archaeological findings. Since there have been different versions in the religious
scriptures, views differ. The presentation in this book is made with the guidance
of learned scholars.
Contents:
History
Major Temples
Vaishnavite Temples
Saivite temples
Commercial importance
Kanchipuram (Kanchi)
A Tamil poem of the second century AD describes the existence of the temples in
Kanchi at Kamakottam of the Goddess and at Urakam of Vishnu. The earliest
Kamakottam still exists near the present Skanda temple, where a seated Goddess
with matted hair holding a noose, goad, and skull is found exhibiting the gestures
of fearlessness.
The city of Kanchipuram is also known as the Temple City of South India (Nearly
1008 temples are referred to have been found in the city and out of these only 200
or so remain now). There are 650 stone inscriptions in Kanchipuram belonging to
different dynasties and different periods. There was a famous poet by name
Bharavi in the court of King Harshavardhana who praised Kanchi as the best city
during that period, in his poem as under.
The temples of Kanchipuram were built during different dynasties, each enriching
and refining the architecture further. One can clearly see the evolution of the
south Indian style of temple architecture (Dravidian style) in these temples. It also
had the unique fame of being the centre for education in India during that period.
The then rulers patronized Sanskrit literature and supported Buddhism and
Jainism, which spread in this region during this period. Positioned at the cross
roads of land and sea trade, the Pallavas mediated culturally and religiously
between North and South India as well transmitting Indian civilization into
Thailand, Cambodia, Java and Vietnam. The harbour at Mamallapuram encouraged
maritime and trade with South East Asian countries. It became the imperial capital
of the Pallava rulers from the sixth to eighth century AD. The rulers of the Pallava
dynasty were great patrons of art, architecture and learning and under their reign,
the first south Indian stone temples were built at Mahabalipuram. The evolution of
the south Indian style is clearly visible in the temples at Mahabalipuram. The
Pallavas also built a number of temples in Kanchipuram. Subsequent kingdoms of
the Cholas, Chalukyas and Vijaynagar rulers continued to carry forward the
temple building activities started by the Pallava dynasty.
Kanchi, is sacred as one of the three Sakti peetams of India. Kamakshi is said to
be goddess Parasakti, having Saraswati, Lakshmi and Parvati as her eyes.
As the Sakthi sthalam, legend has it that Uma (Parvati), in a playful mood, once
closed the eyes of Lord Siva with her palms. This caused universal darkness for a
while. All the devas, rishis and humans stumbled and were terrified. Lord Siva was
angered and He ordained Shakti to be born on earth and remain there to atone for
her act. Shakti accordingly was born as Kamakshi in Mangadu and was awaiting
the arrival of the Lord, to marry Her, as promised by Him. As this did not happen,
she decided to perform a penance. She lit fire on all sides, in five homa kundams
leaping tongues of flame and stood on her left toe and went into a divine trance in
the kundam at the centre, for ages. Lord Shiva then asked her to go to
Kanchipuram, where He said He would marry her. She went to Kanchi where the
Lord apprared before her and married her.
It is believed that Parvati, in Her hurry to leave for Kanchi to join Lord Siva, did not
put off the fire that She had lit. When Adi Shankara came to Mangadu, as part of
his pilgrimage all over India, the people of Mangadu and its vicinity who could not
bear the heat requested him to help them by putting off the heat emanating from
the Homa kundams.
Adi Sankara installed the “Ardha-Meru Sri Chakra” and thus nullified the heat. The
Sri Chakra established by him has the shape of a koorma (tortoise) as its base.
There are three steps over the base and a 16 petalled lotus and a yantra have been
installed over the steps. The Sri Chakra has 43 triangles, representing 43 devatas.
Since it is made of eight different herbs, abishekam is not performed to the Sri
Chakra. Puja is performed with sandal paste etc., along with kunkuma archana.
The Sri Chakra established by Adi Shankara is the speciality of Mangadu.
Even after the establishment of Sri Chakra, people were afraid of going to the
temple, because of the awe-inspiring posture of Kamakshi in penance, standing
on fire on her left toe, installed in the sanctum sanctorum known as Adi
Kamakshi.
This idol was later consecrated in a separate structure, to the left of the temple, by
His Holiness Sri Chandrasekarendra Saraswathi. He installed in its place an idol of
Kamakshi holding a parrot in one hand and sugarcane in the other.
KailashnatharTemple
The Kailashnatha temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is the oldest temple of Kanchi. It
reflects the freshness and simplicity of the early Dravidian style of temple
architecture and was built by the Pallava king Rayasimha. It can also be described
as the worthy successor of the rock temples at Mahabalipuram, which were also
built by the Pallava rulers. The bases of the pillars in the temples at
Mahabalipuram have seated lions while at Kancheepuram the lions stand on their
hind legs. This temple was constructed in the late seventh century AD and
Rayasimha's son added the front portion later. The eighth century remains of
murals within the temple are an indication of the magnificence of the original
temple. The temple is built of red sandstone and has innumerable carvings of
Pallava art, of which the Urdhva Tandava dance of Siva and the laughing face of
Parvati are worth seeing. There are a number of small shrines within this temple
dedicated to Lord Shiva, Goddess Parvati and their sons Ganesh and Murugan
(Subramanya)
Ekambareswara Temple.
This is one of the most revered temples to Siva located in Kanchipuram, and also
one of the Panchabhoota Stalams signifying the element of earth – Prithvi Lingam.
The presiding deity is Ekambara Nathar, Ekambreswarar and the Ambal Elavar
Kuzhali, Kamakshi. The great saivite saints Sambandar, Appar and Sundarar
composed the Pathigams, (hymns) in praise of the Lord.
Legend has it that Parvati worshipped Siva in the form of a Prithivi Lingam,
improvised out of sand, under a mango tree. When the neighboring Vegavati River
overflowed and threatened to engulf the Siva Lingam, Parvati or Kamakshi
embraced the Lingam to protect it from being destroyed. By the touch of Parvati,
Siva materialized in person and married her. It is in this context Siva is referred to
as 'Tazhuva kkuzhainthaar' in Tamil.
The mango tree in the temple, which is still green, is believed to be 3500 years old,
and is considered to be the embodiment of the four Vedas, and as evidence the
tree is said to bear fruits of four different tastes in each season.
The Saint poet Sundaramoorthy Nayanar is said to have recovered sight of his left
eye, upon offering worship at this shrine. The great texts, Tiruvacakam,
Tirukkovaiyaar, Kanchipuranam, Manimekalai speak the glory of Kanchi city
In 14th century another Prakaram and a gopura (Tower), huge and beautifully
carved, was built by the later Chola kings. This temple is one of the 108 Divya
desam. Lord Varadharaja Swamy resides in the upper prakaram. Beneath the
sannidhi there is a shrine for Lord Narasimha. There is a separate Shrine for
Perundevi Thayaar. Sudarshanaazhwar's Shrine is near the temple tank and it is in
the outer prakaram.
The Legend is that Lord Brahma worshipped Lord Varadharaja Swamy in Krita
Yuga, Gajendra in Treta Yuga, Brihaspati in Dvapara Yuga and Ananta Shesha in
Kali Yuga. It is believed that Airavata, the elephant of Indra in the form of a hill
bears the image of Lord Varadharaja Swamy. The wonders and the greatness of
this temple and the Lord Sri Varadaraja, who is also in other forms in the nearby
temples in the Kanchipuram, are very much elaborated in the sacred text called
"Sri Hastigiri Mahatmayam". Garuda Seva, in this temple is considered to be one
of the important festivals attracting a very large crowd of devotees.
Another time, while Lord Varadaraja was being fanned, Clive expressed his doubts
about the deity feeling hot. Upon hearing this, the priest fanning the Lord wiped
the deity’s face with a small towel and gave it to Clive, who was amazed to find it
wet.
As per the puranas, since Lord Varadaraja appeared from the sacrificial fire
performed by Lord Brahma, it is believed that the Lord acquired the pinkish spots
on His face, which is visible on the vigraha.
With temples spread over the whole city Kanch is divided as Vishnu Kanchi,
comprising the Vaishnavite temples and Siva Kanchi which has the Saivite shrines
This temple of Sri Pushpavalli samedha Ashtabhuja Swami temple is one of the
important 108 holy places (divya desams) of Vaishnavites. The Lord here is also
known as Adikesava Perumal, Ashtabhujakaran, Ashtabhujanga Swami,
Chakradharar and Gajedra Varadan and His Consort is known as Alamelumangai,
Pushpavalli Thayar and Padmasini. The temple tank is Gajendra Pushkarani.
The image of Goddess Mahalakshmi is on His right chest and He is seen wearing
the huge saligramam garland round his neck.
The story has it that the demons darkened the world in an attempt to disturb the
yagna (ritual) conducted by Bhrama. Vishnu is said to have manifested himself as
bright light, to enable the yagna to continue unimpeded, hence the name
Deepaprakasar.
Legend has it that Narasimhar while in his Hastisaila cave (the Attigiri sanctum hill
in the Varadaraja Perumaal temple, has a cave shrine to Narasimhar), manifested
himself yet again as Narasimhar, and proceeded westward to banish the asura
demons from the vicinity, where he stood in the posture of Yoga Narasimha, in
what is known now as Tiruvelukkai. The word Vel means desire; since Narasimha,
out of desire for this place, resided here, this shrine is known as Tiruvelukkai.
Legend also has it that Bhrigu muni was blessed with a vision of Narasimha at
this shrine.
Tiruneeragam – Jagadeeswarar
This Divya shetram is a small shrine within the inner prakaram of Sri
Ekambareswarar temple in Kanchipuram.
According to the sthala purana the Devas surrendered to the Lord when Vegavathi
(Saraswathi River) was forced by Asuras to flood and destroy the yagna of
Brahma. Responding to their prayers the Lord lay in the way forming a dam and
helped Brahma to complete the yagna. Hence this place gained the name Vegavati
anai, which in due course changed to Vegka.
Legend also has it that Poikai Azhwar was discovered on a lotus flower in the
Poikai pushkarini. It is also believed that Kanikannan, a disciple of
Tirumaisaiazhwar was banished from the kingdom by the then ruler of the place.
When Tirumaisaiazwar also accompanied his disciple the Lord joined them. Later
when the king revoked the order, at the request of Tirumaisaiazhwar the Lord
returned to His original shrine. Hence the Lord is called Sonnavannam seidha
perumal as He acted as per the request of the Azhwar.
This Divya shetram is located within the Kamakshi Amman temple in Kanchipuram
The moolavar is Aadi Varaha perumal in standing posture and the Thayar
Anjilaivalli Nachiyar. The Theertham is Nitya pushkarini and the Vimanam Vamana
Vimanam.
The legend has it that Parvati standing on one foot meditated upon Siva under a
mango tree to be united with him in marriage. She sought the blessings of her
brother Lord Vishnu and her prayers were answered. There is another story that
Parvarti sighted Lord Vishnu overhearing the conversation between her and
Lakshmi, upon which she addressed Him as Kalvan.
There are two shrines of Pachhi Vanna perumal and Pavala Vanna perumal, and
both these shrines are considered as one Divya shetram.
The legend has it that Brigu Maharshi worshipped at this shrine and had
pratyasha darsan.
It was built in its present form around 1915. But, the shrine of Sri Subramanya
Swami in Kanchipuram finds a significant place. For Devotees on a pilgrimage
trip, this temple is a mandatory place to visit. It gains its significance due to its
location.
Lord Shiva, in the "Soma Skandha" posture seated with the Goddess Shakthi to
his left, and His son Lord Subramanya seated between them. The Kandakottam
temple is located, right in between the shrine of Lord Shiva (Sri Ekambaranathar)
the shrine of Shakthi (Kamakshi Amman).
Kuranganilmuttam temple
Tirumaakaral temple
Tiruvothur temple
This Shivastalam is within an hours drive from Kanchipuram and it is known for
its association with Sambandar
Shiva is said to have revealed the Vedas to the Gods and Rishis from under a
banyan tree here. The four palm trees represent the 4 vedas. Sambandar, arriving
from Tiruvannamalai is said to have transformed a male palm tree to a female one,
responding to the pleas of an anxious devotee. There are several legends
connected with Sambandar here. Shiva is said to have appeared as a snake
charmer to save Sambandar from the clutches of a snake.
Panankattur temple
Taalapureeswarar and the Ambal Komala Pataambaal. This is a small temple with
a 3 tiered gopuram and a prakaram. A gajaprishta vimanam adorns the sanctum.
(The image above is that of the gajaprishta vimanam at Tirumazhisai near
Tiruvallur also in Tondai Naadu). This temple has been designed to echo the
voices of visitors. There are two shrines here, said to have been worshipped by
Agasthyar and Pulastiar. (Taalagireeswarar and Kripanatheswarar), bothfacing
east. Both the Ambal shrines adjacent to each other face the south. This temple is
rich in sculptural wealth
The temple has exquisite paintings on the wall, worth seeing. Unfortunately they
have faded due to exposure to weather conditions and want of proper
maintenance. Very recently the Archaeological department is taking necessary
steps to restore them to the original condition.
Chitragupta temple:
Apart from his link with Yama, he is also an Adi devata for Kethu, the
last of the Navagrahas, who delights in casting a malign influence on
the victim. To get release from the clutches of Kethu, and to appease
Yama, the Lord of Death, the blessing of Chitragupta are sought
Enathur:
In a rustic rural setting of this village, Kanchi Sankara Mutt has set up a University
for Advanced learning at Enathur. A Library with ancient books, palm leaf
manuscripts on various subjects are housed in this University comlex. A 60 feet-
high statue of Adi Sankara is put up in the front of the University. Hundreds and
thousands of pilgrims and scholars frequent this place regularly.
KANCHEEPURAM IDLIS
Kanchipuram Sarees
The sari both conceals and reveals, depending on the weaver’s whim and
conditioning. The versatile sari has its variety fashion in adorning in this
multicultural society of India .
Indian silk has been popular the world over - for its sheer variety of designs,
weaving and quality. This is largely due to the fact that India has the unique
distinction of producing different varieties of silk.
Silk is a protien fibre, produced by the silkworm for spinning around its cocoon.
This fibre (filament) is unwound to obtain silk. Yarn is produced by twisting the
fibre, which is then dyed, warped and finally woven to produce fabric.
The glamour of the Kancheepuram silk saree lies in its colour contrasts, and the
traditional designs of pyramidical temple borders, checks, stripes and floral
buttas. Kancheepuram silk sarees, are famous since the border, body and pallav
of the saree are woven separately and then interlocked together strongly, making
the saree to last long.
How to reach Kanchi:
One can motor down from Chennai in 2 hours time. There are regular buses, and
express trains operating from Chennai.
Where to stay?
There are a number of one star and budget hotels and It is difficult to find quality
accommodation in Kanchipuram. For those who prefer star hotels they can stay at
Chennai or at Mahabalipuram.
Hotel Saravana Bhavan has a branch at Kanchi, which maintains a high standard
restaurant.
Local Transport:
It may interest visitor to have a ride in a horse drawn vehicle, or a “Ricksha”, a
peddled Tricycle to go around the city.
There are also taxis (without meter) and auto rikshas, for faster transportation.
Local Transport: Bicycles can be hired from the shops near the bus stand for as
little as Rs 2 per hour. Cycle Rickshaws and auto rickshaws are also available on
hire to move in and around the city.