Professional Documents
Culture Documents
.A.Z. Bangladesh
DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, N.I.F.T. Kolkata
Submitted by: Abhishek Nath Saptarshi Bagchi Subhodip Basu FT (2004 2008)
Acknowledgements
Our Six-week Internship at N.A.Z. Bangladesh has proved to be one of the most integral and important part of our course curriculum. We were able to gain an insight into the working the working of an industry from close proximity as well as being involved in intricate problems of production planning and the product development process. At N.A.Z. Bangladesh we would like to thank; Mr. Nasser Ahmed Mrs. Hasina Khatun Mr. Zakir Hossain All respective department heads and staff. At N.I.F.T. Kolkata we would like to thank; Mr. S.S.Ray Mrs. Binwant Kaur Mr. B. Bannerjee All our faculty members and staffs. Regional Industry Coordinator Head of Department, Fashion Technology Associate professor, N.I.F.T. Kolkata Managing Director, N.A.Z. Executive Director, N.A.Z. Chief Coordinator, N.A.Z.
NIFT, Kolkata
Contents
Part 1 y y y y y Company profile/ details List of buyers Departments/ Sections Organization chart Process Flow
Part 2 y Machinery Infrastructure y Guiding Principles of NAZ Bangladesh Part 3 y Project 1: Operator Grading and Skill Inventory for sewing department y Project 2: Development of an incentive system. y Project 3: Developing concepts for product development and studying the feasibility of a product development department in specific context to industry. y Project 4: Documentation of industrial responsibilities. y Project 5: Style Study (Time and Motion Study, Operation Breakdown, Work Sampling) y Project 6: Study of delays caused in lead time and their solutions y Project 7: Company website development y Project 8: Corporate presentation development for the company Part 4 y Interesting Learning Experiences y Appendices: Bibliography and References
NIFT, Kolkata
COMPANY PROFILE
Name of the Company Address: Head Office Contact Number Fax E-mail Address Factory Address Factory Telephone Number Factory Fax Number Factory E-mail Address Person to be contacted N. A. Z. BANGLADESH LIMITED House No. # 04, Road No. # 06, Baridhara, Gulshan, Dhaka-1212. 9861831, 9860445, 8854101. 880-2-9889078 info@nazbd.com; sawpan@nazbd.com; zakir@nazbd.com 5. BK Bari, Rajendrapur, Gazipur. 9289054-6 880-2-9289053 naz@aitlbd.net Mr. Nasir Uddin Ahmed (Managing Director) Mrs. Hasina Khatun, (Executive Director) Mr. Ali Arshad (Sr. Manager Marketing) Mr. Zakir Hossain (Marketing Manager) 1987 100% Export oriented Knit Fabrics Manufacturer & Ready- made knit garments exporter. Knit Fabrics & Knit Garments Knitting: 14 Tons/Day Dyeing & Finishing: 12 Tons/Day Garments: 55,000 Pcs/Day PC Printing : 10,000 Pcs/ Day Embroidery : 50,000,000 Stitches/Day
Production Capacity
YEARLY TURNOVER
01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11
1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006
US$ 7.02 MILLION US$ 8.20 MILLION US$ 9.65 MILLION US$ 10.56 MILLION US$ 12.76 MILLION US$ 15.86 MILLION US$ 17.65 MILLON US$ 19.40 MILLON US$ 21.25 MILLON US$ 25.50 MILLON US$ 28.00 MILLON
NIFT, Kolkata
SL. No. 1.
Address Islami Banking Branch Rajuk Avenue 9, D.I.T Avenue, Motijheel C/A Dhaka-1000, Bangladesh SWIFT: exbkbddha001.
BUYERS:
SL BUYER 01 H&M 02 ALDI 03 PUNTOROMA 04 T.P.G 05 E5 MODE 06 LI & FUNG 07 UMBRO 08 HAGGAR 09 MCKAYS 10 TEX-EBO 11 WAL MART 12 GOODYS 13 TRR 14 TESCO 15 TEMA 16 J C PENNEY COUNTRY SWEDEN GERMANY SPAIN GERMANY BELGIUM USA UK USA UK GERMANY CANADA USA ITALY UK TURKEY USA
NIFT, Kolkata
Types of Fabrics
GSM (Range)
Single Jersey Single Jersey (Lycra) Single Jersey (Auto Stripe) Single Jersey (Singed) Single Jersey (Pigment Dye) Single Jersey (Sueded / Ultra Soft)
100-280
Pique
7 8 9 10 11 Pique Pique (Auto Stripe) Pique (Sueded / Ultra Soft) Pique (Mercerized) Pique (Ultra soft) Interlock Interlock (Ultra soft) Interlock (Pigment Dye) Interlock D/N (Cotton) Interlock D/N (Polyester) Rib: Any Drop Needle Rib (Pigment Dye) Rib (Ultra soft) Rib Elasten Flat Back Rib Variegated Rib Semi Jacquard 140-300
Interlock
12 13 14 15 16 190-280
Rib
17 18 19 20 21 22
180-240
Jacquard
23 135-280
NIFT, Kolkata
Fleece
25 26 27 28 29 30 240-400
Lacoste
31 32 33 180-300
Waffle
34 180-240
Valor
35
Others
36 37 38 39
NIFT, Kolkata
ORGANIZATIONAL HIERARCHY
MANAGING DIRECTOR
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
GM KNITTING
GM DYEING
GM QA
GM SEWING
MANAGER MAINTENANCE
LAB IN CHARGE
PRODUCTION MANAGER
NIFT, Kolkata
SECTIONS/DEPARTMENTS
Head Office: y Accounts y Merchandising y Commercial Industry: y Executive Director y Accounts y Human Resource y Administration y IT y Store y Maintenance y Medical Unit y Merchandising y Sampling y Knitting y Dyeing y Finishing y Testing y Spreading and Cutting y Embroidery y Sewing y Finishing/Packaging
NIFT, Kolkata
DEPARTMENTAL ORGANOGRAMS
MERCHANDISING
Manager
Senior Merchandiser
Senior Merchandiser
Senior Merchandiser
NIFT, Kolkata
SAMPLING
Sample in Charge
Pattern in Charge
Coordinator
Sample Supervisor
Quality Checker
Operator
Cutter
NIFT, Kolkata
KNITTING
DGM
MANAGER
SAMPLING [3]
OPERATOR [150]
NIFT, Kolkata
KNITTING QUALITY
TESTING LAB
IN CHARGE [1]
NIFT, Kolkata
DYEING
GENERAL MANAGER
PRODUCTION MANAGER
JUNIOR TECHNICIAN [2] GENERAL SHIFT PRODUCTION OFFICER [1] GENERAL SHIFT
SUBCONTRAC T SUPERVISOR
SUPERVISOR [4]
TECHNICIAN [6]
ASSISTANT IN CHARGE
SUPERVISOR [3]
CUTTER
SPREADER
NIFT, Kolkata
PRINTING
PRINT MANAGER
SAMPLE MANAGER
FLOOR MANAGER
SCREEN SUPERVISOR
QUALITY CONTROLLER
HELPER
NIFT, Kolkata
IRONMAN [4]
PACKER [4]
NIFT, Kolkata
MAINTAINANCE
MAINTAINANCE MANAGER
FOREMAN [6]
FOREMAN [6]
HELPER [6]
HELPER [6]
NIFT, Kolkata
NIFT, Kolkata
PATTERN MAKING
SAMPLE TEST
NIFT, Kolkata
KNITTING
MERCHANDISER
YARN PROCURED
YARN STORE
PRODUCTION
QUALITY INSPECTION
NIFT, Kolkata
DYEING DEPARTMENT
GREY FABRIC TURNING DYEING TUBE SQUEEZER DRYER BRUSHING COMPACTION OPEN SQUEEZER/ SLITTING SHIRRING ULTRASOFT STENTERING QUALITY INSPECTION
QUALITY INSPECTION
1 KG. IS SENT FOR LAB DIP 150 KG FOR TRIAL RUN SCHEDULED FOR DYEING SCHEDULED FOR BATCH DYEING
NIFT, Kolkata
NO. OF PIECES/COLOR AND NO. OF PLIES/COLOR DETERMINED TRIAL CUTTING OF AROUND 200 PCS. FOR SEWING
BULK CUTTING AFTER MANUAL MARKER MAKING SIDES ARE OPENED [FOR TUBE FABRIC ROLL]
NIFT, Kolkata
SEWING
DESIGN / TECHNICAL SHEET FROM THE MERCHANDISER ELEMENTAL BREAKDOWN OF THE GARMENT NON-CONFORMING ALLOCATION OF OPERATORS CUT PIECES MUST BE RECEIVED AT LEAST WITH A CUSHION OF 24 HRS. IN LINE BUNDLE CHECKING/ PIECE COUNT TAGS AND LABELS ARE PRE-SORTED AND SUPPLIED TO OPERATOR BUNDLE FEED SEPARATE PIECES FOR SEPARATE OPERATIONS INLINE CHECKING AT SOME WORKSTATIONS
NIFT, Kolkata
NEEDLE DETECTION
STORING
NIFT, Kolkata
NIFT, Kolkata
PRODUCTION (NOTES)
Knitting and Dyeing department
y y y y y y y y y y Production is divided into shifts of three each of eight working hours. Production order is first received from the merchandising department. A sample production is done (usually 6-10 kg. according to the fabric type and color specified by the buyer. Testing is done (color matching only ample is sent to buyer for approval) Once approved the order is placed. Fabric made and sent for pre-production sample. Pre-production sample is approved and then only sent for bulk production. Machine scheduling is done for the execution of the order. Buyer wise daily knitting production status is maintained. If production falls short or time is limited subcontracts may be given.
NIFT, Kolkata
Points of rejection a) Patta b) Continuous Tara c) Sinker mark d) Wrong Design e) Poor elasticity f) Major thick/thin. g) Needle line h) Yarn count mixing.
Penalty points a) Hole b) Oil Stain c) Rust Stain d) Missing Yarn e) FLY/ Contamination f) Slubs g) Needle drop h) Lycra out Notable points (EMBROIDERY): y The designs are done from a unit called TEXUS in Uttara, Dhaka. TEXUS converts the designs into machine readable form. This process can consume up to 5-6 hrs. y Design number is the same as the order number. y The designs are maintained/stored in a floppy disk drive.
NIFT, Kolkata
The Lab Dip Method: Fabric color solution + Glaubers salt [for penetration of color increases absorbency] [1 hour] 60 degree centigrade + soda [fixes the dye in fabric] Treated at 135 degree centigrade [for polyester] and for disperse dyes no soda is given. Washed with normal water to remove loose dyes from surface Treatment with soaping agent [90 degree] for 15 minutes Normal wash Acetic acid is used to make the fabric neutral in pH Dried and ironed Color matching is done by eye estimation/ spectrophotometer Sent to merchandising department (swatch sent) y y y Usually takes 1-2 days depending on the number of shades in a particular order GSM is acceptable within a tolerance level of 5-10 gms. In case of cotton and polyester blends preferential dyeing of cotton over polyester is done.
NIFT, Kolkata
Spreading and Cutting Types of Spread used: y The fabric is spread back to back. y The width of a fabric or lay is defined by the fabric diameter as developed by the knitting
department in correspondence with some predetermined calculations by the Merchandising department, which is done with repeat to the order specifications given by the buyer.
y Even the lay length is not fixed and is done or calculated while laying the fabric by trial and
error method.
y Only one thing is considered beforehand i.e. the number of bodies derived from one layer
should be complete and none of its parts should come from the next layer.
Marker Type:
y y y y Non-sectional marker is used irrespective of either order or style. The marker length is not pre-determined and a particular order style may have more than 1 spreads each with different marker lengths. The merchandising department pre-determines the marker width with reference to the fabric width. Marker is drawn on the top layer of fabric with contrasting chalks and sometimes even with pen. Therefore if the order size requires more than one spreads than the marker is developed that many times. Marker efficiency is not checked, thus there is no effort to gain or control marker efficiency. Since pattern pieces are few and simple we can use sectional markers as even non-sectional markers do not have very high efficiency. Pre-determined splice points/lines reduce wastage due to splicing. Workers should be aware of splicing at defext areas and leave such allowances during cutting. Infrastructure: There are 11 cutting tables.
y y
NIFT, Kolkata
Bundling/ ticketing:
It is always taken care that there are 25-30 pieces in a bundle according to ISO: 9001 norms. A ticket is attached to each of the bundles, which has the following parameters; y The tickets are made of scrap fabric and the band knife is used to cut them in equal sizes. y There is separate table/zone for ticketing. y The bundles are made according to specification and put into a lay to ensure that there is no problem of shade variation.
MIS: y The cutting in charge receives the fabric order sheet for each order from the merchandising department with the details of number of colors, the size details and the number of bodies to be laid along the width of the fabric. y A gate pass is issued by the fabric store before any lot of fabric is passed to the cutting department. y A daily production report of number of pieces cut per style of garment in terms of size and color is maintained. Size (number of Pieces): Order number: Color: Bundle number: Cut number:
NIFT, Kolkata
Sewing NOTES: y The entire production system is based on the coordination between the three production managers
and the production General Manager.
y There is a system of periodic inline checking. y Helper to operator ratio is 1:1 at some points it is even 2:1. y There is a system for grading of operators. MIS: y Buyer wise production registers are maintained. y Monthly production registers. y Input register.
y Line capacity planning. N.A.Z. Bangladesh boasts of 100% compliance with EU NEEDLE-COMPLIANCE RESTRICTIONS.
NIFT, Kolkata
FABRIC STORE
There are three huge racks that are placed along the length of the fabric store:
Process flow
Merchandising department sends the purchase order sheet
Store receives the order with the buyer name, style no. from the fabric finishing department
The store manager confirms the cutting-in-charge and the concerned merchandiser about the receiving of the fabric
Cutting in charge informs about his requirement of fabric of any particular style of clothing.
The store manager issues the fabric and enters in his register and gets it signed by the cutting in charge
The rolls of fabric to be issued are again inspected for fabric defects and all defects are marked.#
Then the gate challan for that issued fabric is generated which is held as a document supporting that issue
This is done to ensure that the spreading and cutting workers don t have to waste time in locating the defects while spreading the fabric. This was not present before. That area was occupied for the style-wise bundling recording area.
NIFT, Kolkata
N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. There is a mechanical scale in the store as knit fabrics are issued in measures of weight and not of roll. There is a shortage of space in the store so a lot of fabric is dumped on the fabric finishing area thereby causing problems in movements through the aisles as well as making the floor clumsy in appearance. Proper ventilation is not available.
ACCESSORY STORE
Sewing Thread Details: y y Sewing thread used is mainly cotton-polyester blend. The thread (Grey) is mainly sourced from SAXI International China and sometimes India. Sewing thread is procured in Lacchi form
Then the thread is dyed in house in the required color as specified by the Testing lab Then Hanks of sewing thread is made
Needle inventory:
The store has 22 types of needles which are required at different stages of production. There are two different slips for operators who break needles one which is given to the line supervisor for broken needle whose broken part is lost and for needles whose broken part is damaged. Averages of 200-300 needles are issued daily. UY-9, DC-9, DB-9 are consumed the maximum. They always keep an inventory cushion of one week for the process of giving the requisition to the accounts department and receiving the needles.
NIFT, Kolkata
MACHINERY DETAILS
Machine Profile (Knitting Section)
Single Jersey
SL/ NO .
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
M/C TYPE
MC/ DIA
19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 28
M/C GAUGE
24 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 24
QTY
BRAND
ORIGIN
FABRIC S TYPE S/J, Pique S/J, Pique S/J, Pique S/J, Pique S/J, Pique S/J, Pique S/J, Pique S/J, Pique S/J, Pique
PRO. CAP/KG S
REMARKS
S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J Total
1 1 2 2 3 2 1 1 1 14
ORIZIO ORIZIO ORIZIO ORIZIO ORIZIO ORIZIO ORIZIO MAYER & CIE MAYER & CIE
M/C TYPE
MC/ DIA
28 30 32 34 32 34
M/C GAUGE
20,24 20,24 20,24 20,24 20,24,28 20,24,28
QT Y
1 1 1 1 1 1 6
BRAND
ORIGIN
FABRICS TYPE
S/J ,FLEECE S/J ,FLEECE S/J ,FLEECE S/J ,FLEECE S/J ,FLEECE S/J ,FLEECE
PRO. CAP/KG S
REMARKS
MAYER & CIE MAYER & CIE MAYER & CIE MAYER & CIE FUKAHAMA FUKAHAMA
Lycra Attachment Lycra Attachment Lycra Attachment Lycra Attachment Lycra Attachment Lycra Attachment
M/C TYPE
Rib +Interlock Rib +Interlock Rib +Interlock Rib +Interlock Rib +Interlock Rib +Interlock Rib +Interlock Rib Rib Interlock Interlock
MC/
DIA 30 34 36 38 36 38 40 40 42 38 40
.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
M/C GAUG E
14,18 14,19 14,20 14,21 16,22 16,23 18,22 16 18 24 24
QTY
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
BRAND
MAYER & CIE MAYER & CIE MAYER & CIE MAYER & CIE FUKAHAMA FUKAHAMA
ORIGIN
GERMAN Y GERMAN Y GERMAN Y GERMAN Y TAIWAN TAIWAN TAIWAN TAIWAN TAIWAN TAIWAN TAIWAN
FABRICS TYPE
Rib+I/L+F/Ri b Rib+I/L+F/Ri b Rib+I/L+F/Ri b Rib+I/L+F/Ri b Rib+I/L+F/Ri b Rib+I/L+F/Ri b Rib+I/L+F/Ri b Rib +F/Rib Rib +F/Rib INTERLOCK INTERLOCK
PRO.
CAP/KG S
REMARKS
Lycra Attachment Lycra Attachment Lycra Attachment Lycra Attachment Lycra Attachment Lycra Attachment Lycra Attachment F/Look lycra Attach F/Look lycra Attach Lycra Attachment Lycra Attachment
300 350 400 500 350 400 400 800 400 400 400
Juinn Long Juinn Long Juinn Long Juinn Long Juinn Long
NIFT, Kolkata
TAIWAN TAIWAN
INTERLOCK RIB
Lycra Attachment
MC/ DIA
42
M/C GAUGE
20
FEEDE R 68
QTY
2 2
ORIGI N
German y
FABRICS TYPE
Terry
REMARKS
Lycra Attachment
M/C TYPE
MC/ DIA
34 36 38
M/C GAUGE
24 24 24
FEEDE R 48 48 48
QTY
BRAND
ORIGIN
REMARKS
2 2 2 6
06.Flat Knit
SL/
1 2 Total
M/C TYPE
Flat Knit Flat Knit
MC/ DIA
0 0
M/C GAUGE
14 14
FEEDE R 8 12 3
QTY
2 1
ORIGIN
Japan Germany
FABRIC S TYPE
Collar/Cuff Collar/Cuff 2100
REMARKS
Lycra Attachment Lycra Attachment
NIFT, Kolkata
B. DYEING MACHINE SL. No. 1 2 3 5 6 7 8 9 Name of the Machine Machine Capacity (In Kg) 10.00 50.00 175.00 350.00 525.00 700.00 1050.00 1400.00 No. of Machine 01 2 01 01 01 01 01 01 Country of Origin
Dilmenler
Turkey
TOTAL ONE TIME LOADING : 4260.00 KGS TOTAL PER DAY CAPACITY: 4260 x 3 = 12780.00 KGS
NIFT, Kolkata
N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. C. FINISHING MACHINE Machine Category No. Of Machine Squeezer & Detuisting 01 Tensionless Dryer (Stream) 01 Compactor Brushing Sheering Sueding /Ultra soft /Pitch finish Stenter Equalizer & Shrinking, O/Width Compacting Unit Bag sewing m/c Dethreading machine 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01
SL. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Name of the Machine Bianco LK & LH (4 Chamber) Feraro LK & LH Laffer Laffer Bruckner Ferraro Acimit Acimit
Country of Origin Italy Taiwan Italy Taiwan Italy Italy Germany Italy (m/c on the way) Italy(m/c on the way) Italy(m/c on the way)
8 9
NIFT, Kolkata
Veridide
England
3 4 5 6 7
All being performed by experienced and qualified textile technician under the supervision and guidance of a textile engineer well trained for the purpose. We are using internationally accepted test procedures and materials.
NIFT, Kolkata
BRAND
NO.OF M/C
Country of Origin
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26
Single Needle lock stitch Single Needle lock stitch Over lock 4 thread Over lock 4 thread Over lock 4 thread Top dowen Over lock 4 thread Back latch Over lock 4 thread Cylinder Bad Over lock 6 thread Cylinder Bed Flat lock Cylinder Bed Flat lock Cylinder Bed Flat lock Cylinder Bed Flat lock Flat Bed Flat lock Flat Bed Flat lock Flat Bed Flat lock Feed of the Arm Button Hole Button Stitch Ber Tack Picoating Needle Detector Fusing Machine Rib Cutter (3 way) Rib Cutter (Single) Band Knife Cutting Machine
JUKI JUKI JUKI JUKI JUKI JUKI JUKI JUKI PEGASUS PEGASUS PEGASUS PEGASUS PEGASUS PEGASUS PEGASUS YAMATO JUKI JUKI JUKI KANSAI CINTEX HASHIMA CALIFORNIA
JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN ENGLAND JAPAN USA TAIWAN JAPAN JAPAN
EASTMAN KM
1 6
NIFT, Kolkata
27 28 29 30 31 32
Vacuam Table Heater less Iron Label Cutter and Folder Snap Button Machiine Thread Sucker 3 Needle ,5-Thread Cylinder bed Interlock Machine with Fab Trimmer
NAOMOTO NAOMOTO
30 30 1
10 2 2
NIFT, Kolkata
Guiding Principles and Implementation Procedures of Code of Conduct of NAZ Bangladesh Ltd
NAZ
Bangladesh Ltd will comply with the national legal requirements and International best practices in accordance with SA 8000 standards for ensuring the basic requirements of its all employees rights.
Ensure good employment condition; Good working condition; Ensure occupational health and safety, security and maintain its surrounding environment eco-friendly; Opinion of its employees in relation with freedom of expression will be ensured; Be an equal opportunity based on gender and diversity for all its employees; Ensure quality products as per ISO 9000; Develop workers capability through establishing human resource department; Improve productivity through implementation various activities in all areas.
NIFT, Kolkata
Employment condition
Discrimination: y The company shall employ workers without regard to race, colour, gender, nationality, religion, age, maternity or marital status. y The company shall pay workers wages and provides benefits without regard to race, colour, gender, nationality, religion, age, maternity or marital status. Forced Labour: The factory does not use any prison, indentured or forced labour. Child labour: NAZ Bangladesh Ltd shall not employ any worker below 14 years of age. Appointment:
NAZ Bangladesh Ltd shall provide the workers appointment letter during recruitment.
y NAZ Bangladesh Ltd shall provide the worker ID card (please see Annex-1) and Time card specifying his/her area (please see Annex-2), nature and classification of job and identification. y This factory maintains a register of adult workers, including the name of the worker, the nature of his work, shift of work etc.
This factory also maintains personal file for every worker (details are Annex- 3)
NIFT, Kolkata
NIFT, Kolkata
The employee will be personally liable for the upkeep & safe keeping of the above items. 3. The employee will report to the concerned department following the induction.
Training and Probation: y The probation period of a worker whose function is of clerical nature shall be six months and for other workers such period shall be three months, which may be extended for another three months if the skill cannot be determined within three months. y y The training period of a trainee/apprentice (new worker with no previous experience) is three months. A person will be employed initially, as probationer and his/her salary will be fixed by the sole discretion of management according to his/her ability, qualification and for the permanent post being filled up. y The employee may leave the company any time during the probation period & similarly the company can terminate his/her service instantly without assigning any reason whatsoever. y Appraisal of a probationer's will be carried out at reasonable intervals & the appraisals will be the final basis of attaining a permanent worker status.
NIFT, Kolkata
Discharge: Definition: Discharge means the termination of services of a worker by the employer for reasons of physical or mental incapacity or continued ill health of the worker or such other similar reasons not amounting to misconduct.
NIFT, Kolkata
N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. Condition of discharge: A worker who has completed for more than one year of continuous service shall be paid compensation at the rate of thirty days wages for every completed year of service or any part thereof in excess of six months or gratuity, if any, whichever is higher. Dismissal: Definition: dismissal means the termination of services of a worker by the employer for misconduct. The company expects that all employees maintains a healthy working atmosphere and is not involved in any kind of misconduct in the factory. However, the company will take legal action in case any employee is involved in any misconduct. The following acts and omissions shall be treated as misconduct: y Willful insubordination or disobedience, whether alone or in combination with others, to any lawful or reasonable order of a superior; y y Theft, fraud or dishonesty in connection with the employers business or property; Taking or giving bribe or any illegal gratification in connection with his or any other workers employment under the employer; y y y y y y y y y y Habitual late attendances; Habitual absence without leave or absence without leave for more than ten days; Habitual breach of any law, order, instruction applicable to him. Riotous or disorderly behavior in the establishment, or any act subversive of discipline; Habitual negligence or neglect of work; Frequent repetition of any act or omission for which a fine may be imposed; Resorting to illegal strike or go-slow or inciting others to resort to illegal strike or go-slow; Falsifying, tampering with, damaging or causing loss of employers official records. Smoking within the premises of the company where it is prohibited Holding meeting within boundaries of the premises of the company without sanction of the employer: y y y y y y Leaving work without permission. Sleeping whole on duty. Giving false information regarding name, age, qualification, previous service etc. Sabotage or wastage caused to materials & stores of the company. Conviction in any court of law for any criminal offence. Improper uses or non-use of protective clothing uniforms (if any) while on duty.
NIFT, Kolkata
N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. Penalties for misconduct: The following are the penalties, which may be imposed by the employer upon an employee1. Dismissal from Service. 2. Recovery from the pay. 3. Stoppage of increment or promotion. 4. Censure. 5. Reduction in rank. The management shall have the discretion to revoke, refuse, change and extension of penalties.
Termination of employment: For terminating the employment of a permanent worker by the employer, 120 days notice in case of monthly rated worker and 60 day notice in case of other worker shall be given in writing by the employer. Wages for 120 days or 60 days, as the case may be paid in lieu of such notice.
The company shall pay the worker compensation at the rate of 30 day wages for every completed year of service or for any part thereof in excess of six months or 30 days thereof pay in lieu of and other applicable payments during termination. If any permanent employee who desire to resigns from service is required one-months notice in case of monthly rated worker and 14 days notice in case of other workers shall be given in writing by the company. Under such circumstances the worker shall not be entitled to any compensation as aforesaid. If the employment of a temporary worker is terminated not due to the completion, cessation, abolition or discontinuance of the temporary work, the employer shall give one months notice in case of monthly rated worker and 14 days notice in case of other cases in writing. Wages for one month or 14 days, as the case may be paid in lieu of such notice.
Provident Fund: Contributory provident fund will be provided for every permanent employee. Deductions from the basic pay at the prevailing rate (current rate 8.33%) will be made from each employee per month. Company will contribute the same amount towards the fund. The employee shall be entitled to receive the employer's contribution after completion of 3 (three) years of becoming member of the provident fund.
NIFT, Kolkata
N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. Employees must fill up a prescribed from after attaining eligibility to be a member of this fund.
Working condition
Wages: y y The wage of the employees will be paid by 1st week and overtime by the 3rd week of every month. The minimum wages for the workers of each skill level is divided into three components: a) medical that is fixed at taka 150.00: b) basic pay; and c) house rent that is 30 per cent of basic pay. y y y The minimum wage for a helper is Tk. 1200.00 per month. Trainees and apprentices shall be given Taka. 1800.00 per month for a maximum period of three months. An attendance allowance of Tk. 200 is given if any operator has 100% attendance for a particular month.
Gross wage - 150 Hence Basic pay = ----------------------------1.30 NAZ Bangladesh ltd may make deductions from wages as follows: 1. Fines 2. Absence from duty 3. Damage to or loss of goods or money expressly entrusted to the employed person where such damage or loss is directly attributable to his neglect or default 4. Living accommodations supplied 5. Government-authorized amenities and services supplied 6. Recovery of advancements or for adjustment of over-payments of wages 7. Income-tax payable to employed person 8. Subscriptions to or repayment of advances for provident fund 9. Payments to co-operative society
Working Hours: Normal working hours: 10 hours a day and 60 hours a week. Maximum hours of work and overtime: 10 hours a day or 60 hours a week and on the average 56 hours per week in a year. Overtime Payment: When a worker works for more than 10 hours in any day or more than 60 hours in a week, this worker shall be entitled to get overtime allowance.
NIFT, Kolkata
N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. NAZ Bangladesh ltd shall pay overtime on twice the basic wage. The overtime shall be calculated as follows: Overtime allowance = Basic hourly wage x 2 x no. of overtime hour Rest breaks: One-hour rest or meal after 5 hours of work (1.00pm-2.00 pm). Weekly rest: One day, usually on Friday. Compensation for work during weekly rest: Compensatory days of equal number to the days lost as soon as circumstances permit. Leave Rules: All permanent employee of NAZ Bangladesh ltd will be entitled to enjoy the following Leaves1. Casual leave: 10 days 2. Sick leave: 14 days 3. Earned Leave/Annual leave: 1 day for every 22 working days 4. Festival and other Govt. Holiday: 10 days in a year Casual Leave: Ten (10) Days casual Leave with full pay will be granted in a year. Employees cannot enjoy more than three (3) days of casual leave at a time. Casual leave cannot be carried forward to the next year and unutilized casual leave is normally not en-cashable. Sick Leave: Fourteen (14) days sick leave on half-average wages in a year. y Employees falling sick must inform the Dept. Manager by writing or other reasonable means of communication and must apply for medical leave on the date of joining work. y Medical Certificate/Prescription by a registered MBBS doctor for absence due to medical ground is required for leave more than 3 (three) days.
y
Earned Leave/annual leave: On completed 1 (one) year continuous service, every adult worker shall be entitled to 1 (one) day leave with pay for every 22 (twenty two) days of work, up to 20 days per year. The earn leave can be carried forward to the next year. Festival Holidays:
NIFT, Kolkata
N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. Every employee shall be allowed at least 10 (ten) days festival holidays with full pay in a calendar year. The day or dates of festival holidays shall be fixed & conspicuously notified in the beginning of the year as per Govt. notification. Leave Application Rules: y An employee has to apply for leave in a prescribed form to the Departmental Manger 3 (three) days prior to the proposed leave date. y y Approved leave forms will be sent to the Departmental Secretary. An employee remaining absent without leave for emergency reason must inform the Departmental Manager/Counselor/Supervisor/Dept. Secretary by any reasonable means of communication at a reasonable means of communication at a reasonable time. y Employees proceeding for leave must hand over their duties & responsibilities to supervisor & co-workers to ensure that work is not hampered during their absence. y The management has the right to extend, modify, revoke, reduce, replace & make any changes of leave at their discretion.
Unauthorized Leave: An employee remaining absent due to reasons, which are unacceptable to the management, will be treated as unauthorized leave. Habitual Late: Definition: Any employee reporting late to work for more than 3 (three) days per month shall be treated as habitual late attendance. NAZ Bangladesh Ltd will observe following policy regarding unauthorized leave and habitual
absence.
1. A maximum of 10 (ten) days of unauthorized leave in a calendar year will be treated as habitual absence & unauthorized leave. 2. A warning letter will be served to an employee who will remain absent without authorized leave for 3 (three) days in calendar year. 3. Management will initiate legal proceedings on the 10th (tenth) day of unauthorized leave in a calendar year. NAZ Bangladesh Ltd will observe following policy regarding habitual late attendance. 1. 2. A warning letter will be issued to the employee who is late for the 4th (fourth) time in a month. Management will take necessary action if the employee continues to come late to work subsequent to the issue of warning letter.
NIFT, Kolkata
NIFT, Kolkata
N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. Attendance Allowance: NAZ Bangladesh Ltd provides attendance allowance for encouraging punctuality among the employees. Company expects all employees to attend on time and take advantage of the attendance scheme.
Criteria for getting Attendance allowance: Every employee must report to duty on time. An attendance allowance amounting to Tk. 200.00 per month will be paid to every employee subject to the following conditions.
Reason for disqualification of getting Attendance Allowance: y Five minutes late for two days per calendar month will be allowed. Late attendance over 2 (Two) days in a calendar month i. e. over 1 (one) minute in the third days will be disqualified for allowance. y Employees arriving late between 05-06 minutes any day during the moth will be disqualified for the allowance and an hour's salary will be deducted. y Employees arriving the between 61-120 minutes any day during the month will be disqualified for the allowance and two-hour salary will be deducted. y y Employees arriving late more than 2 (two) hours late will not be given work for the day. Employees who will avail unauthorized leave will not receive attendance allowance.
y Employees will be entitled for attendance allowance in case of pre-sanctioned authorized leave and subject to above condition. Overlapping shift: NAZ Bangladesh does not allow working more than one shift in a day.
NIFT, Kolkata
Employment of Women
Equality of opportunity: Women shall have equal rights with men in respect of employment and occupation.
Excessive work: This factory does not allow pregnant women to lift, carry, move by head or hand, any material, article, tools or appliance. Maternity Leave: 6 weeks before delivery and 6 weeks after delivery. Maternity benefits: A woman will be entitled to get maternity benefit-1. She must service for this factory for a period of not less than nine months immediately preceding the day of birth. 2. She should provide a notice either orally or in writing that she expects to be confined within six weeks. If she was unable to give advance notice she should give notice within seven days after the birth of her child. 3. She should also present a medical certificate. The notice may indicate the name of person to whom benefits must be paid in case the woman dies. If the woman dies on the day of confinement, maternity benefits will pay to the person who takes care of the child. If both the woman and the child die, the benefit will pay to the person she nominated, or if no such nomination has been made, to her legal successors. y y However the benefit shall be availed up to the 2nd child. Leave has to be granted by Departmental Manager in company's prescribed leave application form.
Amount: Maternity leave is granted with amount one hundred per cent of average daily earnings (calculated by dividing total wages earned during the three months immediately preceding the date the woman gives notice of pregnancy by the number of days she actually worked during that period). Health Protection: Pregnant women are prohibited to lift, carry, move by head or hand, any material, article, tools or appliance. Employment Security: We dont fire any pregnant woman. Abuses: There is no evidence of any form of abuses.
NIFT, Kolkata
Cleanliness Rules:
y y y y y y y y y Washy hand dries hand with liquid soap before starting work. Every employee is responsible to keep his work area and surroundings clean. Waste and garbage should be put away in specific place. Liquid soap/soap should be used as required any wastage is not permitted. Toilets should be flushed after use. Employees should help in keeping the toilet area clean and dry to maintain hygiene. Washbasins should also be cleaned after use. Wastage of water is not permitted at any time. Toilet and urinals maintained in a clean and sanitary condition at all times with suitable detergents and disinfectants.
NIFT, Kolkata
N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. Disposal of wastes and effluents: NAZ Bangladesh Ltd is committed to initiate effective arrangements for the disposal of wastages and effluents to create eco-friendly environment through: Proper sewerage and drainage systems has been developed 1. Effluent treatment plant in line with environmental impact assessment has been established. 2. A store for waste clothes has been established for keeping it on daily basis and take way outside the factory after seven days for recycling 4 Encourage sourcing of raw materials from environment friendly suppliers for use in production processes 5. Ensure adequate measures to minimize use of natural resources like gas, electricity and water. 6. Take effective steps to ensure proper accumulation and documentation of generated and disposed waste and periodically review trends on regular basis. Ventilation and temperature: This factory management provided adequate ventilation by the circulation of fresh air should be secured and maintained. Temperature is secure to workers reasonable conditions of comfort and prevents injury to health. Overcrowding: Adequate space has provided for every worker. Lighting: Factory management provides and maintains sufficient and suitable lighting natural and artificial. Drinking water: A sufficient supply of pure drinking water provided and maintained for all workers, legibly marked and situated conveniently placed away from hazards materials. Latrines: This factory has one latrine for every 25 workers up to the 1st 100 and one for every 50 workers thereafter. The male and female toilet is separate sign has displayed in Bangla including the sex of the workers. Urinals: This factory has one urinal for every 50 male workers up to the 1st 500 and one for every 100 workers thereafter. Spittoons: Spittoons shall be conveniently placed in the factory and maintained in a clean and hygiene condition. Machine Guard Machines are equipped with safety devises i.e. pulleys are guarded with guards.
NIFT, Kolkata
N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Appropriate Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is provided to the workers, e.g. mask to avoid cotton dust, gloves and mask provided for handling thinner spray, metal gloves for cutting section, earplugs are provided in noisy areas at no cost to the workers and instruction in its use is provided/ sage through training and supervision where appropriate. y Worker shall use during working hours the protective clothing/equipment provided to them and shall leave all factory at the end of the working day. y It is the responsibility of all workers to maintain and safety keeps any protective equipment provided to them. Explosive on inflammable dust, gas, fumes or vapour: The factory provided a vacuum spot cleaning, which is isolated and separated from the work area. Dust in the Eyes: 1. 2. 3. Wash the eyes with cold water to clear the dust. Open up the eyes in sufficient light, point the dust in corner of eyes with soft cloth. If the condition is still critical then consult the physician.
First aid: The factory has 1st aid kid for every 150 workers and trains specific staff in basic first aid and workers is informed of the person in charge of first and specific dress also provided for them for easy identification. Cut & Wound: 1. 2. 3. Ask help from the counselor of the floor. You can use First Aid Box placed in every floor. If the wound is of serious nature consult the doctor immediately.
Medical center: In order to provide basic medical facilitates to all employees in line with our E.H. & S policy a Medical Center has been set up in our premises. We have recruited a full time doctor and a nurse/paramedic. We are providing basic health services to the employees and also provide consultation/counseling on health awareness and family planning. Contraceptives will also be made assailable free of cost. y The company has also arranged a Health Card for every employee for the above purpose. The Health Card will be retained at the medical center that has to be produced at the doctors office for treatment. The Health Card will also contain basic medical statistics including an estimated age certification by the doctor.
NIFT, Kolkata
N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. y The company is not liable for any medical expenses other than the above arrangement. The services provided are a privilege aimed the improving the health condition of the employees and the company reserves the right to amend or discontinue the services at any point of time.
Notice and reporting of accidents and occupational disease: Fatal or serious and minor accidents: We also maintain the record of Serious accidents/fatal and minor accident record by using the national labour law prescribed format and report to the concerned authorities. Occupational disease: We also maintain the record of occupational disease and send notices in given forms to the relevant authorities.
NIFT, Kolkata
Safety Measures
Fire: No door shall be locked, all exit doors isles and stairways are free of obstructions at all times. y Exits are distinctively marked with an exit sign, which understood by all. y Aisles are properly identified with black (yellow?) lines and directions to emergency exits are marked with visible (red colour) arrow sign. y y y Emergency and battery operated lights are installed above exits and stairways and properly charged. Emergency exit routes (evacuation routes) are clearly marked and posted in prominent place. Fire extinguishers are visibly marked, properly labeled and reasonably mounted (at least 2.5 feet high) easily accessible and kept free from obstruction at all times. y This factory has a fire safety plan. The plan has included important telephone numbers, the list of the fire fighting team, the evacuation team, the rescue team, the person responsible for switching off the alarm, the person responsible for switching off the main switch etc. y There is a fire fighting team trained on fire prevention procedures and certified by BGMEA Fire safety cell and the Fire and Civil defense personnel. y y 25% workers are trained in the fire fighting. This factory has two-trained officer responsible (for two shifts) for the proper maintenance and upkeep of all fire fighting equipments. y y y y y y y y Fire drills are conducting monthly/weekly? Fire extinguishers are faced less than 100 ft apart. Sand bucket and reserved water is provided in this factory. Hose has installed. Battery operated Fire alarms and manual alarms are installed. Fire extinguishers are fully charged and regularly inspected. CO2 cylinders are kept near switchboard, meter board and junction boxes. Hazardous materials are kept in well-ventilated storage under lock and key.
NIFT, Kolkata
Instruction for Fire: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Ring the bell at once after fire breaks out. Dont panic; go fast to the safe place and wait. Charge the Fire Extinguisher to the fire directly. Fireman should ensure their safety. Inform the Fire service & Civil Defense in the preliminary stage of any type of fire. Switch off the main switch in case of electrical fire. Charge to the fire with the fire extinguisher using procedure. Charge to the fire with the fire extinguisher using procedure. Rushing is cause of your danger; go slow to the safe place through emergency exit.
Uses of fire Extinguisher: 1. 2. 3. Remove the safety pin first. Target the extinguisher to the fire. Press the handle.
Electrical safety: y Electrical boxes, circuit breakers and outlets are covered with fire resisting material and main distribution board posted with Danger sign. y y Electrical boxes and circuit breakers are kept free of obstructions and covers are closed. An electrician is available to support the site at all times.
If Electrified: 1. If anyone get electrified with his/her dress please take the blanket from the Fire Point Box placed in front of the exit door, get it wet and embrace the burning Pearson. 2. 3. 4. 5. Let the electrified employee lie down. If electrified employee becomes thirsty, wet the lip with the wet cloth. If he/she faints, take the help from company's doctor at once. If the condition is still critical, send the patient to the hospital. `
Train and motivate the employees to fulfils their part of the responsibility on Environmental, Health and Safety issues and follow safe work practices in all activities.
NIFT, Kolkata
Welfare
Washing facilities: Separate and adequate screened washing facilities has provided for the use of male and female workers. Canteen: Canteen will be established and food, drink and other items served in the canteen and shall be sold on a nonprofit basis. The price charged shall be subject to the approval of the canteen management committee. The canteen management committee shall consist of an equal number of persons nominated by the manager and selected by the workers. Canteen Instruction: 1. Proceed to the canteen for meals at allocated time only. Employees missing the allotted time shall take their lunch with the last batch. 2. 3. Deposit the canteen token and stand in a Q to collect your lunch. More to the table after collecting lunch. 4 (four) persons will be seated per bench. Taka your lunch and give space to others. 4. 5. Wash your own plate & bowl after taking food and deposit them in designated place. Do not put the water and garbage in the canteen furniture & floor. Use bookplate and keep the table clean. 6. 7. 8. 9. During lunch period the company provided pure drinking water. Smoking is prohibited in the canteen. Any complaint regarding lunch, inform to the counselor. Do not enter canteen for taking lunch during unspecified time.
Crches/day care Centre: A crches/day care centre has been established for the use of children under age of 6 of such women. The room is adequately lighted and ventilated and maintain in a clean and sanitary condition and adequately furnished and equipped. Experienced trained women have appointed to take care of children. Prayer Room: 2 (Two) prayer rooms one for male (extreme west room at the 3rd floor) and one for female (extreme east room at the 3rd floor) has been provided. The prayer rooms are for praying purposes only and employees are requested to use the rooms accordingly and maintain the sanctity of the rooms. Post for Welfare Officer: A post for a welfare officer will be created for looking after the best interest of the workers.
NIFT, Kolkata
NIFT, Kolkata
Industrial relation
y y Workers are free to join associations of their own choosing. Factory management shall not threaten, penalize, restrict or interfere with workers who wish to lawful and peacefully associate, organize or began collectively. The decision whether or not to do so should be made solely by the workers. y Workers shall not be influenced, compelled or coerced y their co-workers or other persons to join or engage in any association. y y We have installed a suggestion box in and there is a formal procedure for handling suggestion. We organize meeting s with workers once every three months.
y y y y y
Management system: y y y y An organizational chart has been prepared and defines organizational relationship. A Job description has been specified for all. Establish Human research Department (HRD) The company shall actively pursue to hire the best human resource available in the country for employment.
NIFT, Kolkata
Security Instructions
1. Each employee has to display identity card provided by the company while entering into the factory gate. 2. Each employee has to wear identity card during working hours. 3. No one is allowed to take out any goods owned by the company without proper authorization. 4. Employees are not allowed to go out of the factory during working hours or enter the factory after working hours without proper authorization by the management. 5. Management reserves the right to search female employees by female security personnel. Similarly male employees are subject to be searched by male guards. 6. Outsiders are not allowed to enter in the office except permission from authority. 7. Any unauthorized possession of any company goods during working hours or during exit will be treated as a punishable offence. 8. Unauthorized movement of employees in the factory is also prohibited. 9. Visitors for employees can visit them at designated place with proper permission from the authority. 10. It remains the responsibility of the employees to report immediately any activity, which can cause harm to the security of the company.
NIFT, Kolkata
PROJECT 1 Operator Grading and Skill Inventory Chart for the sewing floor operators
We were involved in a project regarding the grading of operators on the sewing line. It was a revised grading in which the operator performance was re evaluated and their salaries were restructured according to the present performance of the workers.
y y y y y y y y y The main objective of the management was to have multiskilled operators as possible. Therefore that is one thing that we kept in mind while grading the operators. In our grading system we tried to strike a balance between specialisation of a particular operation and the multiskilled feature of any particular operator. In this system points are awarded to the operators for each operation that they do They earn more points if there efficiency is more in a particular operation This way the total points earned by the operators are displayed and according to the points earned they are graded The range of points needed to be earned to be earned to be put in a particular grade has been pre decided According to the grade the salary of a particular operator is automatically displayed. The chart also displays the skill inventory of a particular line. The total system shown below has been developed in consultation with the top level management and the financial team at NAZ Bangladesh Ltd.
NIFT, Kolkata
Revised Grading System for Operators Sewing Section Efficiency Scale Less than 40% >=40 but <50 >=50 to 60 61 to 70 71 to 80 81 to 100 >100 Points Obtained 25 and more 20 to 25 15 to 20 10 to 15 7 to 10 5 to 7 Operator Grading A+ A B+ B C Trainee Point Allocation 0.5 1 2 3 4 5.5 7 Salary Structure 3700 3200 2600 2100 1800 1600
NIFT, Kolkata
The Goals of the incentive program: y y y y The primary goal of the incentive program is to motivate employees towards achieving higher production volumes. It is also important to portray the scheme as a performance-linked reward to increase scales of compensation. Thus it is also important to calculate achievable target volumes. It has to serve as a major tool to stem worker attrition.
NIFT, Kolkata
N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. The Constraints: y y y y Existing measures of productivity are inaccurate and unscientific. There was no established method for target allocation. Cost and revenue allocation remained a point of controversy. An emphasis on quality using penalty points was necessary to prevent quality problems in a volume driven incentive scheme.
Improved method of cost allocation: y The allocation of costs is done on a basis of an aggregate whole. Fixed, flexible and rotating overheads are allocated to various departments based on the utilization of resources. Cost/ department = Total Accumulated Overheads as a ratio of Resource Utilization. The total costs of the Sewing department are then distributed over the entire floor as cost per machine. Cost/Machine= Cost of department/ No. of machines on floor. The cost/line is calculated as a product of the number of machines in the line and the cost per machine. The total no. of machines in the line is considered as a fixed quantity even if the actual number of working machines is lesser. Cost/Line= No. of machines in line X Cost/Machine
Method of revenue allocation: y y Previously the revenue allocated per garment was decided as a sub-contract value. The sub-contract value was held to be the amount which the manufacturer would accord to a subcontractor; thus determining the value addition at the garment stage. This value had no connection with ground realities or with Vendor CM earnings. A further reason for such a system to be unscientific is that subcontract values consider job workers overheads which were already accounted for in our cost allocation system. We prevailed on the costing department to use actual CM values which had previously been hindered only because of disagreements with the merchandising department
NIFT, Kolkata
N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. Method of target allocation: y y y y Earlier targets were allocated based on manpower allocated to a line by the work study department. This only considered the number of workers registered as present on the line neither taking into account that number actually working nor the operators engaged as helpers. We encouraged the development of the concept of workstations where individual operations contributed actual minutes to an operation. This helped us to monitor efficiency as a ratio of calculated actual minutes to observed actual minutes. Calculated actual minutes = No. of workstations x No. of working hours x 60 Observed actual minutes = No. of pieces produced x s.a.m. of the garment Efficiency = Observed / Calculated x 100
Choice of incentive scheme (Group incentive scheme): y y y y y y Economics theory indicates that small numbers of individuals work better under individual incentive schemes while large groups perform better under a group incentive scheme. In the absence of effective infrastructure it is easier to monitor groups instead of individuals. Self- monitoring within groups is expectable. It encourages development of team spirit and work ethics. Group incentive schemes however work well only within small groups. Even within a closed group it is necessary to monitor the progress and performance of individuals so that neither the individual nor the groups suffer as a result of each other.
Method of disbursement: y y y y y Incentives were only disbursed if the actual production crossed the break-even production limits. The Break-even quantity = Cost per line / Revenue generated per garment. Incentives were to be distributed as a profit sharing scheme i.e. a percentage of CM revenues generated over and above the break even quantity. Only those pieces would be considered as produced which would satisfy final inspection tests. The actual percentage of sharing was decided by the management and costing departments to which we have no direct access.
NIFT, Kolkata
We did a project on trend analysis of the upcoming season. It was done by us so that some improvements could be suggested on the designer artwork. The improvement would basically be some addition of trims and accessory on the predecided garment design as sent by the buyer. Also some improvement in the colour of the garment and surface texture could be suggested as ours is a vertically integrated firm. So the product development could be done right from the fabric construction stage. Therefore the unmodified sample according to the designer artwork would be sent to the buyer and along with it a modified sample of the design sent by the buyer can also be made. The modified sample would also be sent to the buyer to provide the buyer with more options while it places the order. y As there are a number of composite knitwear units in Bangladesh a strong product development team would be really beneficial to rope in moe orders y Also NAZ is planning to set up a brand of its own in a few years time. In that regard trend analysis and product development would be really beneficial. y In this project we mainly worked with the merchandisers to give them a brief description about fashion cycles and trend analysis. y A training module was conducted for the merchandisers on the below mentioned lines y The product development techniques according to the upcoming trends were practically displayed and explained y The project was done for the Europe based buyer Springfield.inc but the concepts of this project is very general The need for forecasting y y y y The only thing constant in fashion is change. Fashion is only what is considered acceptable by contemporary society Moving up the value chain requires responding to quick style changes and shorter lead-times. A knowledge of trends helps the merchandiser identify what he is selling to the customer.
NIFT, Kolkata
NIFT, Kolkata
NIFT, Kolkata
Order Illustration:
NIFT, Kolkata
Labels
NIFT, Kolkata
WORK STUDY DEPARTMENT y y y y Preparing the daily, weekly, monthly line wise productivit6y report. To make sure that each operator is giving productivity as per his/her grading. To keep a track and record the daily input of the line size wise and colour wise. To find out the SAM of a particular garment during the sample development.
NIFT, Kolkata
CUTTING
Pre-Requisites:y The fabric would be received by the cutting section after assuring that the particular lot of fabric conforms to the buyer specified colour, shrinkage, diameter, spirality, G.S.M etc. The test reports on that particular fabric should also be considered. y The quality department in cutting should fill up the required approval sheet to prevent any confusion thereafter. The fabric would be layed, marked and cut only after the approval from the quality department. y Before the bulk cutting of any new order or style starts its trial cutting must be done. According to the order quantity the trial cutting volume would vary from 20pcs to 200pcs. y During the trial cutting all sizes of a particular style should be cut and at least one piece of each size would be produced to the concerned merchandiser for approval. y The concerned merchandiser should match the cut samples with the buyer approved samples and sign on the approved pieces. y The defective parts in the fabric which are identified by the stickers would be removed by the technique of splicing. y The cut piece reaching the sewing floor should be flawless. y During the trial cutting the fabric consumption should be matched with the proposed consumption and if there are any major ambiguities they should be immediately reported. Bulk Cutting:y Pre cutting fabric balance for at least the next two days for a particular line must be at the helm of the cutting department. y The person in charge of the fabric input should ensure the above mentioned criteria y If the order quantity is huge that is if its more than 150000 pieces then pre cutting balance for the next 5 days must be kept before cutting of that particular style starts. y Cut parts must be sent to the embroidery and printing section in bundles consisting of a specified number of cut pieces so that there are no mismatch of sizes among those cut parts during sending and receiving of the goods to and from those sections. y In an ideal situation the cutting department should have a 3 day post cutting stock. y For each line the pre sewing balance for each day must be kept in separate racks which have been provided. A Bin Card in which style no, purchase order no, size, colour, quantity etc would be mentioned would be attached to the content of each rack. y After the completion of a days work the next days input for each line along with matching rib and other smaller parts must be supplied to the line chiefs and their approval should be taken. y The smaller parts like collar, cuff, facing, waist band etc to be cut by band knife only. The cutting of the smaller parts to be done in accordance with the main body parts and its sizes. y Special attention to be given for striped fabrics and fabrics which are difficult to handle like polyamides. Experienced spreaders and cutters to be allotted these jobs as accuracy in cutting for the above cases is of paramount importance. y For a particular style all the main body parts of a particular size are to be tied with rope of same colour and bundle card should also be of the same colour.
NIFT, Kolkata
N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. y For different sizes different coloured rope and bundle card must be used to avoid mismatching and confusion. SEWING
Pre Condition:y All the machines in the sewing floor should have a particular serial no and it should match with the serial no. on the stand. y The people in charge of the machine maintenance should reach the sewing floor 30 mins before the production starts to check for any machine related problem. y After the completion of each days work a piece of cloth must be put beneath the presser foot and kept till the next days work starts to check for any oil leakage. y The person in charge of the machine maintenance of a particular line must check for the following: If there is oil leakage in any machine then that machine should immediately be replaced. The thread tension and the presser foot thrust should be checked daily and modified if they are not perfect. Repair the defective machines as quickly as possible. All the machines on the floor should be in running condition. The preventive maintenance schedule must be followed and the maintainance chart s to be approved by the production manager of that sewing section. y The line chief should ensure the next days input from the cutting dept. at the end of each days work. The required approval sheet should be signed by the planning officer. y There should never be shortage of input for the sewing lines. y At least the number of pieces input per line per day must be 20% more than the required output to get the required output. y In an ideal situation at least two days pre sewing balance for each line must be there at the helm of each sewing line. y For each new style or even a running style the trims and accessories must be ensured first and even the size and care labels must be at the disposal of the line chief. y In each line there should be 2-3 such helpers who can operate machines so that they can act as replacements in case of operator absenteeism. y Before the start of bulk production the necessary folders must be attached to the machine y Before the issuance of folders the concerned line chief and the maintenance dept. officer must sign on the register in the maintenance dept. The same procedure is to be followed while returning the folder. y Spare needles and extra sewing thread cones should be there at the disposal of the line chief so that no time is wasted for needle breakage or changing the cone. Bulk Sewing:y The person in charge of the cut fabric input for a particular line must keep a track of the number of pieces input in the line colour and size wise. y The first operator in a particular line should be very efficient so that he can achieve at least 10 more pieces than the hourly target. y For a particular style there should be a consistency in layouts of all the lines in the floor in which the style is running that is those lines should have the same layout. y The needle type must be changed with variation in fabric type.
NIFT, Kolkata
N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. y y To have best results lesser number lines for longer time period should be technique used in the production line for separate styles. There should be specializations of operations among the operators. So in a particular line operators should not be shifted from his operation at least till that particular style is running on that line. There should be hourly monitoring of the line wise production to see whether the lines are achieving the target. If any line is off target by a good margin then the target as well as the performance of the line needs to be reviewed. The line chiefs should try to go for quality assurance and not quality control. Taking a cue from the above point if there are any recurring defects from a particular workstation or operation then that operation should be reviewed and corrected rather than just sending the defective pieces for alteration. There should be special care taken to prevent mismatch of size and care labels when a different size of the same style has been input in that line. The rejected garments should immediately be kept aside to avoid mixing of the rejected pieces with the correct pieces. Under no circumstances should the pieces to be altered go into the production line. Separate machines would have to be put for alterations near the needle detection area. All the sewed pieces which are defect free have to pass through the needle detector machine before going into the finishing section.
y y
y y y y y
NIFT, Kolkata
Identifying solutions
y y y y y y y y y Development of a sample requisition checklist. Improving flow of buyer information between merchandising and product development teams. Speed up fit-approval process by using buyer approved dress forms. Record problems at sampling stage. Problems with appropriate solutions should form a style history record. IE department should work out exact requirements of work-aids for critical operations before anew style hits the floor. Pilot run for a new style should be executed on the same assembly line as planned for bulk production. Reduce high rate of internal rejections by treating internal customers through a debit system. Develop reliable vendor base. Change process of manual approval to electronic approval system.
NIFT, Kolkata
N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. y Use incentives to counter absenteeism and encourage multi-skilling of operators.
NIFT, Kolkata
NIFT, Kolkata
Proposed solutions y Proper documentation needs to be implemented. y The proposed ERP system should be able to create detailed style histories. Mid-level management should be instructed in the use of the system. y The company has recently implemented a CAD software solution. The marker plans should be saved on a centralized server for ready access. For marker plan to be efficiently executed the diameter and the Fabric shrinkage should be regulated from the beginning of the supply chain. y During production planning there should be an adequate plan to utilize maximum similar marker plans on optimum lay heights to minimize wastage. y New concepts such as stepped lays may be introduced. y Introduction of cutting tools such as round knives and Computer Aided Manufacture (CAM) may be justified to maximize efficiency from the department y Optimize the use of spreading machine as it reduces spreading time especially over longer lays and reduces manpower. y The cutting department MUST NOT cut any fabric without the assurance of quality managers who must decide whether a fabric conforms to buyer specifications. y Give special care to striped and check fabrics.
NIFT, Kolkata
N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. Problems faced by the sewing department y y y y y y y y High rate of labour migration. Different layouts are implemented for the same style of garment. Skill inventory is not maintained. Helper : Operator ratio is high. High rate of inline and final rejections. Pieces are altered within the line itself destroying the line balance. Preventive quality assurance is not done. There are no defined roles for line supervisors and chiefs who act as additional helpers.
Proposed solutions y y y y y y y y Productivity based incentive plans must be implemented. Standardize layouts for similar garments. Skill inventory should be maintained. Attitude towards work should be changed, as more helpers result in lesser productivity. Operator training should be introduced. There should be alternative machines within the line plan for alters. Implement preventive quality assurance. Define exhaustive duties for line supervisors and chiefs.
Problems in the workstudy department y y y y y Lack of proper target allocation. Lack of technical knowledge. No defined means to calculate S.M.V.s. The above mentioned problems constitute a direct and specific hindrance to the incentive program. Layouts provided by the work study department are not implemented.
Proposed solutions y There should be scientific procedures to know the capability of a line, the bottlenecks should be considered, the number of workstations should be considered. y Work study officers should be familiar with terms like WIP, throughput, PFD, SAM, standard, normal, scheduling, skill inventory etc. y A basic idea about the SMV should be gained during the sampling.proper SMV is really necessary to show us the actual results y Layouts for specific styles should be provided by the work study department and they should tally with the requirements of the production department y For the incentive scheme to be implemented successfully the role of this department is paramount
NIFT, Kolkata
N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. Other problems y y y y y CM earnings as shown in the report is not accurate. Crisis control measures are not implemented Lack of information flow between various departments. Canteen for workers yet not established Overtime is almost a daily practice
Proposed solutions y The merchandising and accounts department should coordinate to provide a CM earning which should vary from style to style and not only buyer to buyer. y Proper agendas should be there for emergency cases like generator breakdown y All the departments should coordinate rather than blaming each other. y Overtime to be minimized.
NIFT, Kolkata
Aldi Order (Dealing with Polyamide fabric): Aldi an Italian sportswear manufacturer and a major customer of N.A.Z. had ordered 150,000 pieces of tracksuit leggings made entirely out of a polyamide fabric. Problems were encountered with the fabric at every stage of the manufacturing process. Especially during dyeing it was found out that regular polyamide dyeing techniques lead to heavy color bleeding at the fabric edges. A special enzyme wash was required to stabilize the color on the fabric. Even during the spreading and cutting process it was found to be very cumbersome due to inter-ply slippage. On the sewing floor the fabric was very difficult o handle especially in lock-stitch machines and the merchandising department had agreed to very strict quality restrictions thus leading to a large number of rejects. Moreover the garmenting lead time was very short. This created a large number of problems for the management and the supervisory staff. Lessons learned: The merchandising department should have proper knowledge of fabric handling characteristics and operational difficulties. No order should be taken without consultation with the product development team and the planning manager. Problems in the Cutting department: The day we joined the industry we learnt that he cutting-incharge Mr. Nazim Ud Din had left the industry with almost all the skilled workers of the department it was thus found out that inputs from the cutting department had become a major bottleneck for the sewing floor a situation which was considerably worsening by the day. This was only managed when a cutting master from our sister industry CA Knitwear was brought in. The introduction of CAD marker making under our supervision also provided a psychological boost to the inexperienced workers. Cutting and spreading remain the most unorganized part of any Bangladeshi industry and technological improvements are necessary to bring them up to international standards.
NIFT, Kolkata
NIFT, Kolkata
NIFT, Kolkata
NIFT, Kolkata