Professional Documents
Culture Documents
*The Formalist critic Boris Eikhenbaum expresses this idea in Tolstoy in the Seven-
ties, characterizing Anna Karenina as “a continuation of Eugene Onegin,” and Anna
as “a kind of reincarnation of Tatyana.”
the first two weeks. In the third week the village sent me to a
children’s camp at a beautiful historic town on the Danube.
All the female staff slept in a single cabin: me, a young English
teacher, and five gym teachers. Unknown parties had strongly
impressed upon the camp organizers that I, as an American,
ate nothing but corn and watermelon. Every day they brought
me cans and cans of corn, and nearly a whole watermelon,
which I ate alone in the cabin. In the absence of any formal
duties I was pursued in their every free minute by a group
of tiny, indefatigable Hungarian girls, who gently demanded
that I play badminton with them and braid their hair.
I was surviving this all OK until Saturday evening, when
the gym teachers organized a special entertainment: a boys’
leg contest.
“The American girl will judge the leg contest!” they an-
nounced. I was still hoping that I had misunderstood them,
even as German techno music was turned on and all the boys
in the camp, ages eight to fourteen, were paraded out behind
a screen that hid their bodies from the waist up; identify-
ing numbers had been pinned to their shorts. I was given a
clipboard with a form on which to rate their legs on a scale
from one to ten. Gripped by panic, I stared at the clipboard.
Nothing in either my life experience or my studies had pre-
pared me to judge an adolescent boys’ leg contest. Finally
the English teacher, who appeared to understand my predica-
ment, whispered to me some scores of her own devising, and
I wrote them on the form as if I had thought of them myself.
The next day, Sunday, I was alone in the cabin reading
when someone came crashing through the door. It was the
winner of the boys’ leg contest, a fourteen-year-old daredevil
named Gábor, his prizewinning left leg covered in blood.
“Can you help me?” he asked, handing me a first aid kit.
Closer inspection revealed a long, jagged gash on his
knee. I had opened the first aid kit and successfully identified
a bottle of iodine when we were joined by two of the gym
teachers.
“Lukács Gábor, you leave the American alone!” they
shouted and, steering the boy away, disinfected and bandaged
his knee in a visibly efficient fashion. The English teacher
appeared at my side: “He wants something from you,” she
said darkly.
During the lunch hour, as soon as they had brought me
my watermelon, I slipped away to the commuter rail station,
bought a phone card, and called Valya’s parents’ house in
Budapest. Valya asked where I was. Two hours later, he and
his mother drove up in his mother’s Opel, with a canoe tied
to the roof. His mother thought it would be fun for us to go
canoeing on the Danube. She drove back in the car, and we
actually paddled that canoe all the way back to Budapest,
which took more than seven hours. All around us, towering
sixteen-wheel trucks glided by on barges. Apparently it was
illegal for the trucks to drive on the streets on Sundays.
In Budapest, having missed the docking place, we ended
up moored in a swamp. Valya dragged the canoe aground,
helped me out, and then went to find a pay phone. I was sup-
posed to stay with the canoe.
“I should be back in fifteen or twenty minutes,” he said.
The sun sank behind some prehistoric-looking vegetation,
and a liquid blueness descended upon the world. Valya was
gone for two hours, which I spent guarding the canoe—from
whom? By what means? Noticing a willow nearby, I enter-
tained and dismissed the idea of concealing the canoe with
willow branches. As it happened, the only sentient beings I saw
in the whole two hours were a man with four goats, none of
whom evinced any interest in either me or the canoe, and two
policemen. The policemen stopped their mopeds when they
a car and drove to Cape Cod, to see just what kind of outfit
these people were running. The colony was located on the
grounds of a prerevolutionary lumber mill. I made my way
over a muddy wooden footpath to a boatlike building, where
a man was making a video recording of a machine apparently
designed to pour concrete onto the floor out of a vat. When I
asked him where the writers were, the artist waved his hand
at the window, at the teeming rain.
I located the writers in a trailer, huddled around a space
heater, wearing plaid shirts and plastic-rimmed glasses. The
program director, a windswept, gray-eyed local writer of
romantic appearance, treated me with remarkable kindness,
especially considering my status as the twenty-one-year-old
author of a first-person dog novella. Nonetheless, we weren’t
on the same page. Our priorities and our worldviews were
not synchronized.
“What will you do if you don’t come here?” he asked. I
told him I had applied to some graduate schools. There was
a long pause. “Well, if you want to be an academic, go to
graduate school,” he said. “If you want to be a writer, come
here.”
I wanted to be a writer, not an academic. But that after-
noon, standing under a noisy tin awning in a parking lot
facing the ocean, eating the peanut-butter sandwiches I had
made in the cafeteria at breakfast, I reached some conclu-
sive state of disillusionment with the transcendentalist New
England culture of “creative writing.” In this culture, to
which the writing workshop belonged, the academic study
of literature was understood to be bad for a writer’s forma-
tion. By what mechanism, I found myself wondering, was it
bad? Conversely, why was it automatically good for a writer
to live in a barn, reading short stories by short-story writers
who didn’t seem to be read by anyone other than writing
students?
• • •
*For example: “The morning after her granddaughter’s frantic phone call, Lorraine
skipped her usual coffee session at the Limestone Diner and drove out to the acci-
dent scene instead”; “Graves had been sick for three days when, on the long, straight
highway between Mazar and Kunduz, a dark blue truck coming toward them shed
its rear wheel in a spray of orange-yellow sparks.”
†The Best American anthologies of 2004 and 2005 each included one story involv-
ing the Islamic world, each with a character called Hassan.
This isn’t to say that graduate school was one long walk in
the park, especially not at first. I did have the good fortune
to strike an immediate friendship with one of my classmates,
Luba, a Russian émigré who had grown up in Tashkent. I feel
very lucky to have met such a wonderful person at that deli-
cate point in my career. In between sessions of a seminar on
an obscure school of 1920s Russian filmmakers, known for
their “eccentric” use of circus paraphernalia and human-size
rubber mannequins, we would take long walks around the
graduate-student housing complex, invariably getting lost,
and once even falling into some kind of a ditch. Like Mann’s
hero in his first weeks on the Magic Mountain, I thought:
This can’t last much longer.
In fact, between classes, conferences, teaching, and end-
less lunches, it became clear to me that I wasn’t going to get
anything but term papers written at Stanford. At the end of the
year, I filed for a leave of absence and moved to San Francisco
where, between odd jobs, I wrote a great deal. Nonetheless,