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An Adventure
Waiting to Happen
█ By the light of the silvery moon, the shoals along Real-Mauban Coastal Road.
Real, Quezon, it is an adventure waiting to happen at your my sleepiness away and a breeze coming from the shore
doorstep. blowing away the remnants of a dream from my eyes and
replacing it with something much better. I knew it was go-
I wouldn’t have suspected that I could simply catch a bus ing to be an interesting long weekend when I saw two men
near my house and get off at a fishing village where falls, fixing a 12 meter pontoon at the side of the highway.
skin diving sites and endless beaches are mere walking dis-
tance from each other. I couldn’t have known that in three Soon enough, my traveling companion and I were greeted
hours, I would have been transported into a place where the by our host at Imperial Beach Resort. When travel agencies
pace of life was much slower yet overflowing with honest pitch the Philippines to the world, they always made men-
and down to earth smiles. tion the hospitality of the Filipino. As locals, such a thing is
a non-feature because a friendly smile and genuine concern
No Plans, No Idea for a traveler’s welfare are common place - like chocolate
There is something appealing about having a backpack and in a chocolate factory. If it is not like that for the rest of the
not having a plan. I left home with only the knowledge that world then it must be such an unfriendly place outside these
I was suppose to go to Quezon Province. Even that was shores.
indefinite until I got off the bus and found my foot planted
firmly in Quezon soil. A Swig of Beer for Stories
Hospitality equals beer. The moment my rear end touched
From the bus station at Pasay, everything went by in a semi- the bench of a beach hut, a bottle of beer grande size was
conscious blur - I didn’t even notice my home town Antipolo shoved right at my face. From there, the late morning was
whiz by as we made our way through the province of Rizal. spent listening to tales from the ocean from fishermen stop-
Next thing I know, I was getting off the bus still half-asleep ping by our hut to take a swig of ice cold beer. For the price
and groggy. There to greet me was a brilliant sun dazzling of a short glass, you will hear fishing tales from the vast
traveling all the way to Palawan. The fishing
boats meant for the open waters of the Pa-
cific were larger and generally fish for Yellow
Fin Tuna, Marlin and other large catch using
fishing lines. There are other boats that are
equipped with compressors and these are the
interesting ones as they are for spear fisher-
men.
It never occurred to me
that there were differ-
ent ways to fish. Small
scale fishermen on one-
man outriggers would
trace the shore about a
kilometer out to sea and
cast their nets for smaller
catch. Medium scale fish-
ing boats would go out to
sea for weeks, sometimes
█ Lunok Falls, along the Real-Mauban Coastal Road.
Siesta over; let’s walk exchange pleasantries with a family composed of three gen-
Noontime came and gone like the bottles of beer and plat- erations of fishermen and their overlapping families.
ters of seafood dishes that were brought before us. Though
the stories were entertaining and awe-inspiring, there will If the shore whizzes past as you traverse the coastal road in
come a time when you will feel saturated by expectations a car, how can you chance upon children learning the ways
and think of nothing but grabbing your things and hitting the of the sea and profiting from it with their harpoons?
road to see for yourself.
I walk because I know that the way of life that I crane my
To ensure our safety and to act as guides, four young locals neck out to see behind these curtained windows will soon
accompanied us on our excursion. The only remuneration
that they expected was to share our meals as friends and to
tag along and find an excuse to revisit the palces that they
love.
You must tread past the line of thicket on the side of the road
to be able to tip a hat, ask to pass through their property, and
Walking, it is the only way to travel. To feel the hot pavement
on the soles of your feet is to absorb the character of a place
into your soul.
disappear. I know that the harpoons and goggles that the tographs of the flora and perhaps fauna and other sights
children there carry in their hands to play with will soon be along the banks.
replaced by culturally and socially irrelevant plastic robot
dinosaur toys. Soon the only songs that will be sung will be Beyond Lunok was a series of lesser falls. To trace the
irrelevant to their values and way of life. flow of the stream, I had to hug rock faces and do minor
bouldering to get to the other side of deep pools. Because
Lunok Falls of the camera, my progress was very slow. Apart from
Lunok Falls is five minutes by foot from the side of Real- taking photographs, I had to be very sure of my handholds
Mauban Coastal Road. The short trail is marked by a group and footing lest I fall into the deep pools. I wouldn’t mind
of structures perhaps meant a long time ago as accommo- getting wet but I doubt my digital camera shares the same
dation or amenities for tourists but since then had seemed sentiment.
largely unused.
It doesn’t seem that people frequent the areas I’ve gone to
We were greeted at the falls by families picnicking and because the available handholds had thick layers of spider
around 10 children clambering up the sheer and slippery webs and the route through the boulder walls were full of
walls of the falls to dive bomb into the seven-foot deep debris. I often daintily slapped and brushed off debris from
pool. Women sat around together at the path of the rushing my handholds fearing I might squish a fat spider or some
water while men of different ages sat at the shore sharing other arthropod and slip from the slime or naked terror that
lambanog - a local distilled spirit derived from the sap of this might cause.
unopened coconut flowers.
Soon enough I was faced by cascades with vertical rock
Lunok Falls was beautiful and enticing to look at. Plunging faces on either side, somewhat like a small canyon. The
more than twenty feet, it made a fine and inviting rumble. water exits into a wide and deep pool which barred me
The volume of water draining from the mountains and out from continuing any further.
into this falls was fairly light allowing swimmers to easily
brave bathing underneath the falling water.
Shoal Soul Searching After swimming, dive bombing and eating, we gathered our
Back at camp, squids the size of a grown man’s upper arm things and made our way back to the Coastal Road, crossed
were roasting above a fire and the fish stew was steaming to the other side and sauntered down the shore. The shoreline
and spreading its delectable aroma all throughout the camp- in these parts were covered with pebbles of different shades
site. By then we had the campsite to ourselves except for a of gray and blue with some displaying streaks of green and
large uwak or crow jumping from one tree branch to another red. The pebbles were large and looked like - for lack of
curiously observing us, and a cat sitting across the stream anything better to compare it with - dinosaur eggs.
with an intent eye at our pot of fish.
In the dying light, we made camp on a clump of pine trees
The open area by the pool of the falls looked like a per- growing on a flattened coral bed. Our campsite resembles
fect place to set camp during the night, but our companions in texture, color and smell, the rough outside of an oyster
thought otherwise. According to them, nikniks - nasty biting shell. A light colored material formed a crisscross relief on
insects with an insatiable appetite for blood, congregate at the blackish surface. Though the surface is even, it is sharp
the banks of the Falls in the evening. and walking barefoot was a difficult undertaking.
█ A lesson on firebuilding
using coconut husks and
dried pine needles.
After setting up my tent, I went about stringing a hammock was difficult for me to shake off the immediacy and demands
between two pine trees. With my feet off the ground and my of urban living and the superficial, transient and personally
face staring at the darkening sky through the bristly needles irrelevant concerns that define it. It was hard for me to see
of pine trees, I came to thinking about the stories being told the sea the way they do but I tried nonetheless and found that
by our companions who had lived all their lives by the sea. I might almost be able to grasp it between the undulation that
the darkened world made while I lay still in my hammock.
The sea was their universe. They may speak of politics and In the easy cool humming of the sea, with our sleepy faces
things going on in Manila but all these things were spoken lit like ghosts by the bluish moon, I chanced upon a feeling
with indifference. What lit their eyes up and gave a smile to of oneness with everything around me. It is at that instance
their voices was talk of the sea, of her bounty, of far away when I let myself go at the edge of sleep that I felt the vast-
islands with brilliant white sandy beaches, of leaving shore ness of the universe embrace my fragile body. It is then that
before dawn and spear fishing with only the light of the I lost all desire.
moon as bait.
It was an eerie lesson in succumbing to fate, of succumbing
It was difficult for me to see the world through their eyes. It to a form of soft death. For that brief moment before my
consciousness fell into darkness, I saw the brilliance of the
blackened sea and yet I didn’t desire to own her or know
more of her. Curiosity had left me and I stared out know-
ingly into the horizon like a child does to his mother’s eyes.
At that brief moment, I understood everything that needed
to be understood and cared not for what I didn’t understand.
Dawn
I woke up in a place that was briefly unrecognizable. Most
of the shoreline features I had taken note of at dusk became
submerged at dawn. The vantage points where I planned to
catch the early rays of the sun were no longer there.
Peering into the dark deep blue, I can make out silver specks
hovering then streaking into the darkness below. Fishes!
They’d dart in and out of the dark bodies of coral underneath
with some getting swept into the shallows where they’d skim
across the thin water and plop right back into the ocean.
Two and a half seconds of deafening silence followed when As I bobbed a fair distance from the shore, I took in the sight
a boy dropped from the branches. Time stood still. What- of the village as it lay sprawled along the beach while low
ever thought you might have in that span of time would be mountain ridges backed the shimmering scene. It got me
blown away by the loud deep crack that the diver’s slippers thinking about events earlier that morning when an outrigger
made when it hit the surface of the water. returned after two weeks out at sea. The community came
out in force to welcome it. You’d think that after seeing a
Bayanihan and a Slice of Fish thousand and one of these arrivals everyone would have got-
There are many places that I have been to which I didn’t ten used to it; but not here. When people greet the arrival of
want to leave at first. To put things in perspective though, I a boat, their intentions run deeper than curiosity.
always keep in mind that leaving is a good thing because it
provided endless opportunities to arrive. So, with a smile on The crew and their onshore counterparts laid out wood as
my face and a light heart to boot, I turned by back on Balag- thick and round as a grown man’s calf in a rail crosstie pat-
bag Falls, grateful for being an audience to her poetry and a tern up the beach. The outrigger aligned itself near the shore
dive-bomber to her rough edges. and powered itself up onto the wooden rail to beach itself.
Young and old, women and men, took up their positions at
Back at Imperial Beach Resort, the usual bottle of beer the lateral framework supporting the boats pontoons. With
█ A storm approaches the beaches
of Tignoan, Real, Quezon. Outriggers
anchored just offshore undulates with
the ebb and rise of a restless sea.
the heavy beams resting on their shoulders, they heaved in children had a field day. My friend and I were a bit at a lost
unison at the egging of a crew member. at this turn of events and we gingerly stepped back and out
of the way of everyone. Our hesitation was felt by a crew
“Isa...dalawa...tatlo!” (One...two...three!). On three, every- member and he walked up to us with two slices of fish and
one heaved and the outrigger slid up a few feet up the wood- motioned us to take them. Everyone was telling us to get the
en crossties. The woods left behind are brought up front fish and the learned reaction of first refusing any offer seem
hurriedly. After allowing everyone to catch their breaths, the so wrong at that moment that we felt we had no choice but
crew begins again, “Isa...dalawa...tatlo! Tulak!” The boat to accept.
was heavy and we struggled as our feet dug into the sand the
moment we heaved. Sand stung our eyes and rubbed pain- After giving away fish, the crew started work in hauling out
fully between our exposed shoulders and the wooden beams their catch. From below deck emerged fishes the length of a
of the boat. grown person. Children filled the deck and clung to beams
and post trying to catch a glimpse of shimmering giant sea
The power of the community working together was awe- creatures.
some. We could feel it as the heavy outrigger made its way
up the beach. The collective elation in fulfilling a communal Tout sinewy men took the giant fishes on their shoulders with
task was overpowering. Everyone was smiling and laughing their fingers on the fishes’ eye sockets for grip. With much
at the effort and a job well done. heaving, they brought the catch to a waiting vehicle that will
take them to Navotas - a central port in Metro Manila where
Immediately, a crew member signaled everyone to gather fishes are auctioned off or sold wholesale.
near the boat and they handed out sliced tuna about the size
of an open palm. There were many to go around and the
Though our minds were already engrossed It was odd to feel like a
stranger to this place all
with future tasks and schedules, I think we
of a sudden. The mere act
left our souls straddling the bow of an out- of preparing to leave had
rigger, riding the ebb and rise of the gentle eroded that strong sense
ocean of Real, Quezon... of community that we felt
while we shared beer with
fishermen, when we helped
I don’ wanna go home! to haul that outrigger onto
The rest of the day was spent soaking in the sun, sights and shore, while we looked out
smell of the place, in anticipation of our departure later in for children playing in the
the evening. We swam out from one anchored boat to an- water.
other, taking in the details of these crafts to deduce the boats
function and imagine the activities that would have gone on Without that commitment in
above deck when they were out at sea. being depended upon by the
community to work, share
We also helped in pushing an outrigger back into the water - and care about the welfare
though obviously that didn’t yield any fish for us but it gave of everyone, you become
us a strong and powerful sense of belonging. just like the countless face-
less nameless persons who
It was an idyllic end to a long weekend, loafing along the pass by the highway cutting
shore, lying on a hammock not minding the sand covering through their village.
most of my thighs and torso, watching children play and
adults do their tasks, listening to outriggers chug along to- The anomic existence of
wards the bright horizon. urban life has drawn our
consciousness away from
Evening came and it was time for us to depart. To return to this place the moment we
the hustle and bustle, all one had to do was step onto the side began to worry about our offices and deadlines. Before we
of the road and wait for the next bus. even lay our foot on the first metal step of the bus, we had
Details of
an outrigger that
was found resting
on the shore of
Lahuliana Beach.
Mostly made of
sealed plywood
and bamboo,
these crafts are
propelled by
powerful marine
engines.
already arrived in the city.