INTRODUCTION

A handkerchief , also called a handkercher or hanky, is a form of a kerchief, typically a hemmed square of thin fabric that can be carried in the pocket or purse, and which is intended for personal hygiene purposes such as wiping one's hands or face, or blowing one's nose. A handkerchief is also sometimes used as a purely decorative accessory in a suit pocket. The material of a handkerchief can be symbolic of the social-economic class of the user, not only because some materials are more expensive, but because some materials are more absorbent and practical for those who use a handkerchief for more than style. Handkerchiefs can be made of cotton, cotton-synthetic blend, synthetic fabric, silk, or linen. Handkerchiefs were also used, especially by children, as an impromptu way to carry around small items when a bag or basket was unavailable. They could also serve as a substitute for a bandage over a small injury. In the United Kingdom, the habit of wearing a handkerchief with tied corners on one's head at the beach has become a seaside postcard stereotype, referenced by the Gumby characters in Monty Python's Flying Circus. Historically, white handkerchiefs have been used in place of a white flag to indicate surrender or a flag of truce; in addition to waving away sailors from port. King Richard II of England, who reigned from 1377 to 1399, is widely believed to have invented the cloth handkerchief, as surviving documents written by his courtiers describe his use of square pieces of cloth to wipe his nose. Certainly they were in existence by Shakespeare's time, and a handkerchief is an important plot device in his play Othello. The use of a cloth handkerchief is occasionally considered old-fashioned or unhygienic, or both, in some parts of the world, mainly due to the popularization of disposable paper handkerchiefs and the fact that they are stored in a pocket or a purse after being used. However they are a potentially more environment-conscious choice, as cloth handkerchiefs are reusable. At first the Kleenex company had not imagined that there would be a demand for a disposable paper handkerchief, so they initially marketed their product exclusively for make-up removal. It was only after they discovered that people were blowing their noses into the tissues that they began marketing them for this purpose. Handkerchiefs are also used to hold hair back, as a fashionable head accessory. Handkerchiefs designed for this purpose are usually printed in a vibrant color and with a paisley pattern, and are known as bandanas or kerchiefs. Signals may also be sent by handkerchief, such as the American LGBT handkerchief codes. In Spanish football or in bullfighting, it is a common sight to see supporters waving white handkerchiefs as an expression of deep emotion. It is used both positive in admiration of an exceptional performance by their team or a particular player (even an opposition player as was experienced by Ronaldinho during a victory for FC Barcelona over Real Madrid at the Santiago Bernabu Stadium, in which Madrid fans openly applauded his performance), or as a negative sign of disgust at an especially bad performance by their team.

History of handkerchiefs

The history of handkerchiefs, however, dates back thousands of years. The actors in the Ancient Rome in the II century AD. used white handkerchiefs playing comedies and satyrs. And the audience in the tribunes used to wave the handkerchiefs during games. In the Middle Ages ladies presented men with their handkerchiefs to show their favor. Decorated with luxury embroidery, silver and golden fibers and fringes, the handkerchiefs were practiced to perform church and coronation ceremonies. However, the bloom of vogue occurred during the Renaissance. And handkerchiefs had become an essential part of any upscale wardrobe. That time Italy and Spain were standards of fashion for the rest Europe. The way the natives of Venice and Madrid wear was widely replicated throughout the world, however, experiencing some sea changes. And the whole costume depended on the cut and style. Then women wore girdles, and to the XV century the fashion comes to the frame skirts vertyugali. That affected the plasticity as well. Ladies almost lost their ability to move, constrained with their splendid attires from golden velvet decorated with gold laces and precious stones. Besides, such a concept as etiquette appears with establishment of the world states and royal houses. There was the system of signs to express this or that wish, and one of the elements of this system was a handkerchief. This is not only an expensive accessory but also the symbol of wealth. The point is that handkerchiefs were produced from the rather expensive and very fashionable fabric, namely - lanolawn. It was the idea of a Venetian lady to cut a square out of pure flax and then decorate it with lace. She showed it to the people in a public garden, where the delicate handkerchief excited the general curiosity of the onlookers. Thus, the needle lacing was created. By time this technique was improved and new motives for embroidery appeared and were applied. And gradually, the entire Venice fell in love with these laced handkerchiefs which cost a fortune irrespective of widely use. The history of handkerchiefs closely connected with the history of embroidery and lace. Therefore, when in the XVII century bobbin lacing got popular, the practice of making handkerchiefs by this technique was spread. This was the simpler and cheaper method of production, while outcome was more elegant. Nevertheless, this accessory was affordable to noble persons only. The handkerchief is also an indispensable part of any stylish woman's wardrobe. Tastes of individuals at the end of the XVII-XVIII century dictated their style. They were oval, round or oblongate. And this trend was put to its end only in 1685 when the King Ludwig XIV decided that the length of a handkerchief should be equal to its width which is

effective in the territory of the whole kingdom". And since that time a small square piece of cloth remains the adopted form for handkerchiefs.

The fashion for handkerchiefs in America was quite similar to that in Europe. Love of colonial women to the square laced handkerchiefs is of the same effect as that of their cousins residing over the Atlantic Ocean. The fashion touched the linen, silky and laced handkerchiefs for both men and women. Quaker Women living in Pennsylvania were considered to have white handkerchiefs as a must accessory to complete a women costume. Previously handkerchiefs were made from fine linolawn and decorated with embroidery by one and the same scheme, thus empty center of the handkerchief is framed by a wide fringe at edges. Combination of the satin stitch technique and open-work allow a variety of options to develop the pattern structures. Ornamental motives include combination of geometry and plant forms. The influence of the Eastern theme is seen in some models. Elegance of patterns and skilled performance are incident to all models. This time Europe experiences the real flourishing of linen pieces of work. When Napoleon came to power, Jozephina announced handkerchiefs in vogue. Taletellers said that the Empress held her laced handkerchief at her lips to show her disapproval when talking to unwelcome court. Handkerchiefs with colorful trimming and trimmed corners at the edges were very popular in England. Primarily this fashion came from the Gothic. Young ladies had their pocket handkerchiefs trimmed with narrow piece of lace or colorful embroidery. The French considered handicraft embroidery or laces on handkerchiefs as the important element of every well-dressed styled woman. Reforming of dresses that took place in Germany vouched for production of any garment from wool, even handkerchiefs. This is the only case in history when such an accessory was manufactured in wool. Handkerchiefs for men, as well as other men's costume garments, tend to get simpler and not so chick. While women liked handkerchiefs with embroidery and laces, men announced their decision towards contrary. Handkerchiefs were large, approximately of 40 cm with simple trimming at the edge and with occasional monogram in the corner. White linen was always respected in public, though fashion allowed some color to complete this accessory. In the XX century when ready-made clothes got popular, handkerchiefs still were sorted for men and women. Handkerchiefs for men were larger in size and less elegant unlike those for women. In the second part of the XX century disposable cotton handkerchiefs were put to production that brought the centuries-old vogue to oblivion. To the discerning gentleman and woman, the splash of color and style is classic, fashionable and functional. The handkerchief is truly a timeless accessory.

PRODUCT ASSORTMENT
This little square of fabric has had other uses besides fashion accessory. When men in battle didn't have a white flag to raise in surrender, a white handkerchief was raised instead to signify defeat. The most functional use for them is to wipe one's hands or blow your nose into it. This latter use can be seen as unhygienic, especially if it needs to be used more than once. Some men prefer to carry tissues for this reason. However, handkerchiefs are often sported in a purely decorative capacity and aren't expected to be functional at all. You can usually find men's handkerchiefs for sale anywhere men's accessories such as socks and ties are sold. Specialty shops also carry them with initial monograms on them; most men choose the monogram that's the first letter of their last name. Because this is such an inexpensive accessory, it's easy even for the budget-conscious to have a good supply of men's handkerchiefs at hand.

Types of Mens Handkerchiefs

There are many different types of mens handkerchiefs available and these are made in different styles and from different materials in order the meet the varied needs of different people. o Standard Handkerchief -The typical "hankie" comes in several relatively small sizes and is intended for mucus reception duty, while useable large version are more versatile. Large Handkerchief- A 24x27 piece of cloth generally a courser cotton fabric, their large size makes them more versatile. Shemag- A shemag is a much large piece of fabric large enough to create a full head wrap, they are often too big for a pocket, but their great size makes them even more versatile.

Men are practical and simplicity is usually the order of the day for most of them. Plain white cotton handkerchiefs are thus the most suitable for most men.

Traditional patterns, such as those with plaid and geometric shapes will also be appropriate for men and these are available in a few earthy tones and hues. Simple elegance is classic and exudes professionalism.

For formal dos, slip a pocket square of a suit pocket handkerchief in the pocket of your suit or tuxedo and you'll be spiffy and trendy.

Handkerchiefs are also used to hold hair back, as a fashionable head accessory. Handkerchiefs designed for this purpose are usually printed in a vibrant color and with a paisley pattern, and are known as bandanas or kerchiefs.

Handkerchief Materials Most plain handkerchiefs are made of an easy to care for fabric like cotton, but fancy pocket squares are also made of silk or linen. When it comes to wearing a handkerchief as accessory, the type of fold you want to do will sometimes depend on the material. Silk is too flimsy for a stiff design that's supposed to stand straight, so keep that in mind when choosing your men's handkerchiefs for accessory wear. The most common materials are:

Cotton Linen Polyester Silk Satin

Styles of Handkerchief Folding

A suit handkerchief isn't the necessity in the man's everyday look nevertheless it could be the significant accessory and a visit card which can accentuate your elegancy. It's so universal that it can be worn by representatives of all professions Methods of handkerchief folding - Aster

- Cooper 1. Throw a handkerchief over your hand so that its ends would dangle. Make a small cavity in the middle of it.

- Kagny 1. Lay out a handkerchief in the shape of rhomb.

- The Presidential Fold 1. Fold a handkerchief four times so that overlocked edges would be at the top and at the right.

- TV Fold a handkerchief four times so that the angles would look upwards-downwards and to the sides.

- One Corner Up Fold This type is the inverse "TV". The difference is that a handkerchief would initially be folded eight times.

- Two-Corner Up Fold Fold a handkerchief eight times in a shape of rhomb so that the fold lines would be below.

1. Displace the upper angle to the left so that the lower angle would be seen. - Three-Corner Up Fold Lay out a handkerchief in the shape of rhomb. Fold it in the shape of triangle.

1. Match the upper and lower angles (if you want three angles) or displace the upper angle concerning the lower one (if you want four angles).

- The Cloud 1. Take a handkerchief by its middle so that the angles would dangle.

- Inverse Cloud This type is folded the same way as the previous one but it's placed in the pocket with the angles outside.

- The Cloud With the Angle This type is the same as The Cloud but the handkerchief is placed in the pocket so that one angle would be seen.

- Folded Cloud Lay out a handkerchief so that the angles would look upwards-downwards and to the sides.

1. Fold the handkerchief in the shape of triangle, match top and lower angles. Let the fold line be atop.

- Straight Fold Fold a handkerchief four times in a shape of a square.

1. Make a fold by turning the lower part of the handkerchief upwards.

- Diagonal Fold 1. Fold a handkerchief four times in a shape of rhomb. Turn the lower angle upwards so that it would form a fold.

Accessorizing
When a handkerchief becomes more than a functional piece of material, the possibilities of how to accessorize it with your clothing become more interesting. The color and fold style you choose will be highly individual. You may find you prefer to wear one type of pocket square style to others, or you may enjoy trying all of the various techniques just to switch things up. once you've taken the plunge into pocket square fashion, you may as well explore all of your options. Some fashion matches you can try are:

If you're wearing a tie with red accents in it, sport a red pocket square to bring out the accents. Navy blue suits always enjoy a flash of red. Pink isn't just for baby girls. Many men have overcome the fear of pink in their clothes. A charcoal suit with a pink pocket square will look sharp and modern. A black suit can be complemented by any number of colors; don't always play it safe with white, but be adventurous and sport a bright color like red or chartreuse.

BRANDS
o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o Alexander Mcqueen Paul Smitrh Westside J.Crew Zodiac Stop Duchamp London Drakes London Bromleys Vicomtea Thomas Pink Linea Skopes Penrose London J.Press Gieves & Hawkes Raid & taylor Knighthood

Pricing and Retailing

Handkerchief is an important accessory carried by men usually with the formals. The pocket squares are for accessorizing mens suits. So, mainly the formal apparel manufactures and brands are retailers for handkerchiefs. Handkerchiefs are products for online retailers. This popularity can be attributed to their desirability as gifts and their universal sizing. Another reason for their popularity is that web sites can feature mall than just the item for sale. Some examples for vast pricing range for handkerchief,
Integriti INTEGRITI HANDKERCHIEFS Price: 199.00

RAID & TYLORS Price: 210.00

Tamielle Handkerchief Price: 420

Knighthood Mens Handkerchief

Price:

159

T&G Price: 80

REFERENCES
o o o o o Amazon.com Textilesindepth.com Wikihow.com Wikipedia.com Answers.encyclopedia.com

Submitted to: Mr. G.H.S.Prasad Associate Professor FMS Deptt.

Submitted by: Richa Sem-I,MFM NIFT,Hyderabad