Professional Documents
Culture Documents
NOVI SAD
July - December 2009
EXIT FESTIVAL
Celebrate the jubilee with us
International Festival
N°2 of Street Musicians
www.inyourpocket.com Carnival touch in Novi Sad
Contents 3
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Arriving in Novi Sad 6
In praise of laid-back life
The Basics 7
History 9
Culture & Events 11
EXIT Festival 2009
A visitor‘s impression 22
Salaš 137 24
Where to stay 26
Sweet Dreams
Restaurants 30
Slow food movement
Cafés 34
Making New Friends
Nightlife 35
Tamburitsa, Wine & Clubing
What to see 37
Petrovaradin Fortress
Lifestyle Directory 46
Gifts & Souvenirs
Maps&Index
City centre map 48
Country map 50
Index & Street register 51
Cover story
Novi Sad will once again
meet tens of thousands
festival goers. This being In Your Pocket is Europe’s biggest publisher of
the 10th Exit festival, a lot locally produced travel guides, producing almost
has changed in the city: four million guides per year. With print guides to
the Varadine bridge is now more than 50 cities across the continent, tra-
li t wi th a t tracti ve ligh t, vellers ask for In Your Pocket guides by name:
they trust our content and our flawless levels of
Petrovaradin fortress (one
accuracy. In Your Pocket remains committed to
of the most important and its founding aim of covering the world with well
best preserved monuments researched and well written city guides. This year
of military architecture on around 112 hectares) we have already launched a new guide to Odesa,
has new stages and a new camp on the Danube, and will be launching new guides in Glasgow,
the longest river in the European Union. One Sarajevo and Vienna. If you think that you can
of the largest music festivals will be held from contribute, and think you have what it takes to pu-
July 9-12 and everybody will be dancing to the blish your own In Your Pocket guide, get in touch
festival beat. Come and dance with us! with us at pocketmycity@inyourpocket.com.
Local time
Serbia is in the Central European Time Zone: GMT + 1 hours
(in winter), GMT + 2 during daylight saving. When it is noon
in Novi Sad it is: 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 21:00
in Sydney and 14:00 in Moscow.
Money
The Serbian currency is the dinar (RSD). The first mention of a
‘Serbian dinar’ dates back to 1214. Each dinar is divided into
100 paras, no longer in use, thus prices at shops are rounded
off. Coins come in the following denominations: 1, 2, 5, 10
and 20 dinars. The banknotes come in denominations of 10,
20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1.000 and 5.000 dinars. National
currency is pegged to Euro. You can change money in a bank
or any of the exchange offices dotting the town (they are
marked with the logo of the National Bank of Serbia). The
differences in exchange rates are negligible. Most banks in
Novi Sad will change travellers cheques, American Express,
Thomas Cook, VISA and Eurocheques. Western Union money
transfers from abroad can be collected from the post office
and most banks. You can buy almost all goods and services
with bank cards, and you need cash only for green markets,
kiosks, and paying the parking. Throughout the town, there
is a large number of ATMs where you can collect money 24h.
Cards widely acceptable in Novi Sad are VISA, VISA Electron,
MasterCard, Eurocard, Maestro, Diners Club and local
DinaCard. American Express has recently been introduced
to Serbian market, and a rather limited number of shops
and ATMs will accept it.
Religion Smoking
Orthodox Christianity is the major religion. Serbian Orthodox In Novi Sad, coffee and cigarettes are generally considered
Church became autonomous in 1219. Other important a perfect way to start the day, so it is small wonder that
religious communities are Muslim, Catholic and Jewish, smoking is allowed in all restaurants and cafés. The problem
and Methodist Evangelical and Reformed communities also here is how to find a place with a non-smoking area. Smoking
have a fair number of followers. is outlawed only in public premises (banks, post offices,
hospitals, etc).
Geography
Serbia covers an area of 88,361km2. It has land borders Health
with Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Hungary, Romania, Tap water is safe to drink. The estimated number of AIDS
Bulgaria, FYR Macedonia, Albania and Montenegro. The cases is low. Doctors and medical staff in state-run hospitals
highest peak is Midžor (2169m) on Old Mountain (Stara are professional and reliable, and you need not worry about
planina). The Danube flows 588km through Serbia, the their skills if you should get ill. The worrisome part are poor
Sava River 206km, and the Drina River forms most of the maintenance of state run hospitals, which is a consequence
border to the West (220km). Another important Serbian of insufficient funds, and the red tape involved in hospital
river is Great Morava (185km), created by the confluence admission. If you have a minor health problem, you are
of Western Morava (308km) and Southern Morava (295km). well advised to visit a private practice so as to avoid an
Novi Sad lies on the Danube River agonizing wait.
Visas
If you are a citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, USA,
Israel, Japan, Russia, Canada, Argentina, Australia, Bosnia
and Herzegovina, Croatia, Cuba, Republic of Korea, you can
enter Serbia without a visa and may stay in the country for
90 days. Citizens of other countries must obtain a visa from
a Serbian consulate before travelling. Within 12 hours of your
arrival in Serbia, you are required to register with the nearest
police station. If you are staying in a hotel or hostel, they will
automatically do that for you. Failure to register carries a
massive fine. For all the details on how to extend your stay
or procure a working permit, contact the Ministry of Foreign
Affairs, Directorate of Consular Affairs in Belgrade,
Kneza Miloša 24-26, tel. 306 82 68 or Novi Sad Town
Police (Department for Foreigners) BBB, Bulevar kralja
Petra I 11, tel. 488 40 00.
Toilets
Public toilets in Novi Sad are hard to find. The existing ones
are fairly decent and can be found next to the Town Hall on
Kralja Aleksandra Street, in Dunavski Park, at Sports and
Business Centre Vojvodina on Sutjeska Street C-2 and at
bus and train stations, open 06:00-20:00. If the need to go
comes on whilst you are strolling round the town, you can
use the toilet in the nearby café or restaurant.
Safety
Novi Sad is a fairly safe place. There is not a single part
of the town where a girl should not walk on her own in the
middle of the night. You may come across stray dogs, but
they are generally minding their own business and not giving
anyone a trouble.
Disabled travellers
Most hotels, restaurants and cafés are inaccessible to
disabled patrons and hardly any offers toilet facilities for
the disabled.
Guided tours Novi Sad
Climate Autoturist C-2, Mite Ružića 2, tel. 52 38 63
Donna Vista C-2, Dunavska 6, tel. 42 61 26
100 Elnostours C-2, Maksima Gorkog 10, tel. 52 82 44
Temperature (celsius) Rainfall (mm)
90
80
Market tours B-3, Bulevar Cara Lazara 55, tel.
70 636 76 12
60
Magelan corporation C-2, Zmaj Jovina 23, tel. 472
50
40
40 88, 662 48 23
30
20
10
0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Avg Sep Okt Nov Dec
4500 BC First settlement established in the area of the 1944 Red Army units and Yugoslav partisans liberate
present Petrovaradin Fortress. Novi Sad.
3000 BC First wooden fortifications erected around the 1945 Toll of war is 1,700,000 deaths, chiefly among
settlement. Serbs. Monarchy is abolished, Federal People’s Republic
6th century Slavic tribes colonise the Balkans. Slavs of Yugoslavia is proclaimed, and Josip Broz Tito is officially
embrace Christianity in 9th century. installed in power. Most of German population leaves Novi
1247 Hungary builds a fortress at the site of the present Sad. In the post-war period, Novi Sad becomes the capital
Petrovaradin Fortress. of Vojvodina region, grows rapidly and develops into an
1526 Fortress occupied by Ottoman Turkey. important centre of political, cultural and sporting life. Crown
1687 Fortress occupied by Austrians. Prince Aleksandar, son to King Peter II is born in Claridges
1692 Petrovaradin Fortress construction begins. On the Hotel in London.
opposite bank of the Danube river, at the location of the 1980 Josip Broz Tito dies. Yugoslavia is now governed by
present Novi Sad, a settlement springs up, composed of ‘Presidency’ comprised of 8 members (6 from the republics
Serbs, Jews, Greece and Germans, as non-Catholics were and 2 from Serbian provinces).
banned from residing within the limits of the Fortress’ Lower 1991 Ethnic and political divisions lead to the collapse of
Town. The settlement was initially called Raitzenstadt (Serb Yugoslavia. Slovenia and Croatia declare independence, civil
Town) and Petrovaradinski šanac (Petrovaradin Ditch). war erupts. Crown Prince Aleksandar II visits Serbia for the
1703 The first Serbian National School opens in Novi Sad. first time in his life.
1748 Affluent Serbs start raising money and buy for Novi Sad 1992 European Community recognises Croatia and Bosnia.
the status of the free royal city from Maria Theresia, Queen Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is proclaimed. UN Security
of Hungary and other territories. Maria Theresia renames Council imposes economic embargo on Yugoslavia over its
the town as Neoplanta (Latin), Uj-Videgh (Hungarian), Novi support to Serbs in Croatia and Bosnia who want to unify
Sad (Serbian). with federal Yugoslavia.
1820 Novi Sad has a population of 20,000. It is a cultural and 1993 The highest hyperin flation in the histor y - a
political centre of Serbs, who do not have their own national 500,000,000,000 dinar note is printed in Serbia.
state at the time. Poets hail it as the Athens of Serbia. Almost 1994 End of hyperinflation, new dinar introduced.
every Serbian novelist, poet, jurist and publicist of note at the 1995 In the aftermath of Croatian war, around 300,000
end of 19th century and at the beginning of 20th century live Serb refugees leave Croatia for Serbia.
or work in Novi Sad some time of their career. 1996 Massive protests against Slobodan Milošević over
1848 Hungarians demand national rights and autonomy electoral fraud at local elections.
within the Austrian Empire. Confronted with new Hungarian 1999 Long-lasting aspirations of Kosovo Albanians to
authorities and wishing to express their own national secede from Serbia escalate in violent conflicts between
individuality, Serbs in their turn proclaim Serbian Vojvodina Serbs and Albanians in Kosovo. The NATO forces bomb
(Serbian Duchy). Hungarian government replies by use Serbia for three months, without endorsement of the UN
of force. In 1849, the Hungarian army located on the Security Council. Slobodan Milošević is accused of crimes
Petrovaradin for tress shells and ravages the town, against humanity during the wars of Yugoslav succession.
killing many of its inhabitants. After the defeat of the In June, following a piece agreement, NATO troops are
revolution in 1849, the Austrian Emperor adopts a new stationed in Kosovo and Metohija. Around 200,000 Kosovo
constitution, guaranteeing Serbs broader rights and Serbs find refuge in Serbia. During the 78 days of bombing,
religious freedoms. Novi Sad is left without all of its three Danube bridges,
1861 Serbian National Theatre, the oldest professional communications, water, and electricity. Žeželj Bridge, the first
theatre among the South Slavs, is founded in Novi Sad. bridge made of prestressed concrete in Europe, the second
1864 Matica Srpska, the oldest cultural-scientific institution in the world, takes direct hits on four different days, before
of Serbia, is moved from Budapest to Novi Sad. it finally collapses into the water, hit again by six missiles.
1914 Outbreak of the First World War. Petrovaradin Fortress Residential areas are cluster bombed several times while its
serves as prison for arrested Serbs and POWs. oil refinery is bombarded daily, causing severe pollution and
1918 Following the defeat of Austria-Hungary, Army of the widespread ecological damage. The bombing of the refinery
Kingdom of Serbia enters Novi Sad. Grand Assembly of causes fires which burn 50,000 tons of crude oil, enveloping
Serbs, Bunjevci, and other nations of Vojvodina in Novi Sad Novi Sad in black smoke
proclaims the union of Vojvodina region with the Kingdom 20 0 0 Sl ob odan Mil oševi ć is ousted amidst h u ge
of Serbia. Serbs, Croats and Slovenes unite into one state demonstrations over electoral fraud. Relations with European
- Yugoslavia. countries and the US improve.
1929 Novi Sad becomes the capital of the Danube Banovina, 2003 Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is replaced by State
a province of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. Union of Serbia and Montenegro. Serbian Prime Minister,
1934 King Aleksandar of Yugoslavia visits Marseille in a bid Zoran Đinđić, is assassinated by a criminal clan. The
to strengthen a defence union with France against Germany clearance of the debris, the remains of the bridges destroyed
and is assassinated by Croatian Ustashe. during the NATO strikes, is completed and the Danube again
1941 The 27th March protests erupt against joining the Axis becomes navigable.
(Germany - Italy - Japan). Following a coup d’etat, 17-yer-old 2004 Before the eyes of NATO and UN forces, around
Crown Prince Petar assumes the throne. Nazi Germany 50,000 Albanians launch orchestrated attacks on remaining
attacks Yugoslavia on 6th April without declaration of war. Serbian villages in Kosovo and torch Serbian houses. In less
The King and the government go into exile. Emergence of two than 48 hours, Albanians desecrate and destroy 30 Serbian
Serbian resistance movement - chetnicks of Draža Mihailović churches and monasteries.
and Tito’s partisans. Yugoslav territory is divided between 2006 State Union of Serbia and Montenegro ceases to exist.
Germany, Italy, Bulgaria, Hungary and Independent State of Serbia is again an independent state.
Croatia. Novi Sad is occupied by Hungarian fascists. 2007 Negotiations between Serbia and Kosovo Albanians
1942 In the course of three days in January, Hungarian about the status of Kosovo. Serbia is offering broad
fascists conduct a raid in Novi Sad, force more then 1,300 autonomy, Albanians desire nothing less than independence.
Serbs and Jews out of their homes and kill them. Most of The international community is divided over this issue.
the bodies were thrown into the Danube. 2008 With support of the USA and some of the EU countries,
Political framework
Serbia is a parliamentary republic. The Serbian Parliament
has 250 seats. The MPs are elected for a term of 4 years, the
President is elected to serve a 5-year term. The most recent
parliamentary elections were held in January 2007 and the
presidential elections in January 2008. The current President
is Boris Tadić of the Democratic Party, and the Prime Minister
is Mirko Cvetković. Democratic Party, together with G17 Plus
and Socialist Party of Serbia (deceased Slobodan Milošević’s
party) form the ruling government coalition. The major
opposition parties are the Serbian Radical Party (the single
strongest party in Serbia), Democratic Party of Serbia and
Liberal Democratic Party.
July 10
19:00 – 04:00
Zoster, Fucked Up, Manic Street Preachers,Overdrive, KoRn,
Andy C & MC GQ, DJ Marky & MC Dynamite.
instrumentalist and a researcher.
Explosive Stage, the most extreme of all the stages, this year July 11
presents 40 bands from all over the world. 5000 Explosive 20:15 – 04:00
fans will listen to Metal, HC and Punk. Patti Smith, Kraftwerk, Moby, Grandmaster Flash, Fabio &
Happynovisad Stage with the capacity of 4000 people Grooverider +MC Rage
is always an alternative to the ones who like to try out
something new in electronic sound. July 12
Battery Elektrana, a stage for the ones ready to experiment, 20:15 – 04:00
explore and search for new musical treasure. Ebony Bones, Obojeni program, Madness, The Prodigy,
Chase feat MC I.D. + Status with Plan B, Bryan Gee & Kenny
Kenn + MC Skibadee.
EXIT Camp
Exit camp also celebrates tenth anniversary. This year, the
camp site is placed at the right bank, on the side of the
fortress, on the beach called “Officer’s beach”. The camp
gates open on July 6 at 8:00, and close on July 15 at 16:00.
Camp wrist band that allows the entrance to the camp, can
be bought via www.exitfest.org or at the camp reception,
provided you show the ticket for the festival and your ID.
Take your tents and sleeping bags and leave valuable objects
at the reception. Numerous toilettes, closed showers with
hot water, sinks, WiFi and Internet café, swimming, 24/7
monitoring and camp stuff help available. Food and drinks
available at Foodland.
EXIT Trip
Book your transportation and accommodation (apartment,
hotel, hostel) during the festival and get necessary
information at the official Exit Tourist service. www. Mts:Dance Arena
exittrip.org
“The Best of Novi Sad” is the official tourist Exit Festival July 9
brochure providing festival-goers and Novi Sad visitors with 21:30 – 06:00
important information on the festival and the city. Dark Angel , Dee Face b2b Vladimir Acic, Reboot live, Steve
Lawler b2b Lee Burridge, Sasha b2b John Digweed, James
EUFEST Zabiela b2b Nic Fanciulli.
Coming to Exit festival and need bus transfers from Zagreb,
Split or Budapest, bus transport or accommodation or July 10
just a bit of friendly advice? Eufest, the original Exit festival 21:00 – 06:00
transport company provides you with what you need. www. Tijana T, Vlada Janjić b2b Gordan Paunović, Heidi b2b Justin
eufest.com Martin, Gui Boratto live, Richie Hawtin b2b Dubfire, Loco
Dice b2b Magda.
July 11
21:00 – 05:30
Flip b2b MKDSL, Hannah Holland b2b Tayo, Kissy Sell Out
b2b Alex Metric, Etienne de Crecy live, Steve Angello b2b
Sebastian Ingrosso, Eric Prydz b2b Adam Beyer
July 12
21:30 – 06:30
Subotić, Paul Woolford b2b Yousef ,Marko Nastić b2b
Valentino Kanzyani, The Japanese Popstars live, Sander
Kleinenberg b2b Darren Emerson, Carl Cox b2b Green
Velvet.
www.inyourpocket.com
Fusion Stage
July 9
20:00 – 03:50
Bernays Propaganda, Pop-Ups, Repetitor, Partibrejkers, The
Herbaliser, Majke, E Play
July 10
20:00 – 03:50
Sweeper, Gravity Co., Elemental, Orthodox Celts, Max
Romeo, Hladno Pivo,zZz
July 11
20:00 – 04:15
Stillness,Jarboli, Stalingrad Cowgirls, Dubioza Kolektiv,
Milan Mumin & Undercover Maniacs, Baloji, Delinquent
Habits, Lollobrigida
July 12
19:15 – 04:00
Slaptrap, The MOOod, Nežni Dalibor, Elvis Jackson, Marčelo,
Buzzcocks, Mando Diao, , Atheist rap. Tuborg Happynovisad Stage
July 9
Suba stage 22:00 – 05:30
Scalamerya, Jan Nemeček Live!, Raresh (Arpiar), Pedro
July 9 (Arpiar), Rhadoo (Arpiar), Nikola Majdanović
20:30 – 01:00
Ritchaz & Kéke, Macacos do Chinês, Buraka Som Sistema July 10
LIVE, Addictive TV, DJ Marfox 22:00 – 05:00
KPK, Double B, Noiz, N-Type, Hatcha, Blakansky aka Cooh
July 10
19:00 – 01:00 July 11
Modern Quartet, Katia B, Cibelle, Trio Mocotó, DJ Jazzmate 22:00 – 05:30
Cnfsn DJs, Sinden, Fake Blood, Ahmaad, Billain
July 11
19:00 – 02:30 July 12
Knalpot, Eboman, The Moi Non Plus, DJ Cinnaman, DJ Juha, 22:00 – 04:00
DJ Rob Da Bank Mile Hund, mk vs NubiS, Orgasmic, Surkin, Das Glow
July 12
19:00 – 02:30 Battery Elektrana
R Point, Horkestar, Vuneny, These Monsters, Fedayi Pacha,
Amon Tobin July 9
18:00 – 02:30
Elektrana radio, Sixth June, Surreal Eternity, Blame,
Explosive Stage Faderhead, Albert Diehl, Colony 5, Gavra
July 9 July 10
19:00 – 03:20 18:00 – 05:00
Ormus, Infest, Rising Dream, Annathema, Keep of Kalessin, Elektrana radio, Kalson, Caligari, Dagobert, Bass Junkie,
Kataklysm, Death Angel, Casket Garden, The Stone, Direct Control, Diplomat + Lloyd da Zoyd, H!, Alavux
Draconic
July 11
July 10 18:00 – 04:00
19:00 – 03:55 Elektrana radio, Dj Retro + Dj Vito, Toy Corner, Toby
Sangre Eterna, Obscured, Hetera, The Revenge Project, Trashcotheque, Trike, Mixel, Felony Flatz, Lo-Fi-Fnk, Symbol
Dweal, Hobsons Choice, Never Lost, My Dying Bride, May One, Banana Rave
Result, Dickless Tracy
July 12
July 11 18:00 – 02:30
19:00 – 03:30 Elektrana radio, Stangliczky, Mekonin, Dragan Vukmirović,
Monument, Nadimač, Rain Delay, Oblomov, Amon Din, Näd Mika, Dead Trash Superstar, Gucci SoundSystem,
Sabaton, Deathstars, Dreddup, Omega Lithium, Abonos, Hadouken! Dj set
July 12
19:00 – 03:45 100Din. = €1.06; GBP0.91; US$1.49
Blank File, The Voldera Cult, Descending, Defeater,
Comeback Kid, The Red Chord, Walls Of Jericho, Deadrise, (27 June 2009)
Lock Down, Vrisak generacije
Kraftwerk
July 11 is reserved for Kraftwerk (a powerhouse in German),
the revolutionary band with strong influence on the
development of electro music. Emil Shult, painter and poet,
in charge of the visual identity of the group, Ralf Hutter,
Friz Hilpert and Henning Schmitz (Florian Schneider is not
coming), will be on stage continuing the search for new
music and proving once again that a computer is a musical
instrument. www.kraftwerk.com
Arctic Monkeys
Popular punk-rockers from Sheffield are authors of the most
popular début album (“Whatever People Say I Am, That ‘s
What I‘m Not”). Alex Turner, guitar and vocals, Jamie Cook,
guitar, Nick O’Malley, bass and Matt Helders, drums, are
said to be the best live performers. Be there and check for
yourself. www.articmonkeys.com
KoRn
Jonathan Davis, James „Munky“ Shaffer, Reginald „Fieldy“
Lily Allen Daniel Woodgate and Mike Bedford come to Exit. www.
This young woman (only 24), one of the most popular British madness.co.uk
singers, with singles on top of world charts, famous for
provocative and direct lyrics, will help EXIT celebrate 10th Moby
anniversary, and have fireworks named after her. www. The keyboard, guitar or drums, all is possible with this
lillyallenmusic.com American musician aged 43, playing at EXIT festival on July
11. This talented musician writes, plays and produces his
own music proving his great talent. www.moby.com
Patti Smith
Entering the world of music in early 70s, and rock ‘n’ roll hall
of fame in 2007, this godmother of punk music and one of the
most important characters in r ‘n’ r, plays the non-commercial
music on EXIT stage on July 11. www.pattismith.net
The Prodigy
Liam Howllet, Keith Flint and MC Maxim Reality, the creators
of numerous hit songs will perform at EXIT festival for the
second time and present their latest album “Invaders Must
Die”. Very popular band with clear and authentic punk
influence and guitar sound on electro music marked the
Prodigy as a cross-over band. www.theprodigy.com
Madness
Londoners once thought the earthquake hit them, but
it was only Madness in concert, playing some of the Performers – Dance Arena
well known songs like “One house”, “it must be love”,
“My girl”… Celebrating 30th anniversary, members of Carl Cox b2b Green Velvet
this ska greatness, Graham „Suggs“ McPherson, Mike Carl Cox and Green Velvet, the most popular DJs of all times,
Barson, Lee Thompson, Chris Foreman, Chas Smash, both like funky and typical Chicago “jack “ rhythms and mix
music for the first time on stage on July 12. This will be their
second appearance on the festival, while Cox’s previous Why EXIT
performers was declared Best Dance Arena performance.
www.carlcox.com, www.green.velvet.com “One of the best festival gigs that I have ever done. Amaz-
ing venue, thumping sound system and great crowd”
James Zabiela b2b Nic Fanciulli John Digweed
Since 2007 these two master DJs have performed and
worked on various projects together. www.myspace.com/ “I’ve never even dreamed that the hospitality and casual-
jameszabiela, www. myspace.com/nicfanciulli ness of these people would make me stay in Novi Sad for
much longer then I’d planned. I’ve never stayed anywhere
Sasha b2b John Digweed after the gig, by the way.”
Great DJs, legends of British trance and house sound,
Dave de Rose, Moloko
made world fame by performing together. This famous
DJ team performs on July 9. www.djsasha.com, www.
johndeegweed.com “It’s the best place I’ve ever performed at!”
Lottie
Performers – Fusion Stage “Serbia was fantastic we all really enjoyed it - the audi-
ence was amazing and it was the best show on the
Max Romeo tour so far.”
Loud singing and gentle and revolutionary music spreading the Billy Idol
idea of freedom come from Jamaican musician Max Romeo.
The ones that like reggae music will enjoy his performance “Exit Festival was great, amazing night, played from
on July 10. www.myspace.com/maxromeoepicdub 3am till 6.30 when the sun came up and to see so many
people in a moat was something else.”
Partibrejkers Carl Cox
On of the biggest and most important rock bands from
Serbia, playing rhythm and blues in combination with punk
“Exit festival was excellent... I had a really good time
energy, better and louder than ever, will perform on July 9.
www.myspace.com/partibrejkersbeograd playing. The site, the crowd, everything was really good.
Look forward to go back next year”.
Hernan Cattaneo
“The only thing I can say about EXIT 06, it was PERFECT!
Very professional, amazing sound system .......and.......
need I say more?
Junior Jack
www.exitfest.org
July 1-12
belgrade
Athletics, judo, football, basketball, fencing, volleyball,
swimming, rhy thmic gymnastics, diving, ar tistic
gymnastics, table tennis, archery, tens, taekwondo
and water polo: 15 sports and 208 disciplines, 9000
participants (the largest number by now) from 140
countries, all part of the world’s biggest sporting event
of the year, second in importance only to the Olympic
Games, and the biggest sporting and cultural festival
ever organised in Serbia – the 25th Summer Universiade. 49th Dragačevo Assembly
Students of 31 Belgrade faculties, the first established
in 1838, will welcome their colleagues from all over the August 5 – 9
world. It is organised under the supervision of FISU - Once a military instrument, today the trumpets of the small
International University Sports Federation, with the village of Guča invite to the dance, not war. The sound of
Assembly consisting of 141 National University Sports the trumpet traditionally accompanies every major event in
Federations. The first student competition under the Serbia's life: births, baptisms, weddings, state and church
name of Universiade was held in 1959 in Torino, Italy, festivals, harvesting, but also departing this world. The village
gathering 1400 participants from 43 counties. of Guča in western Serbia has gained world fame with its
A flag with five stars (blue, yellow, black, green and red) Assembly of Trumpet Players, the largest and the “craziest”
arranged in the shape of a “u” on the white background trumpet event on the planet. The competition for the best
is the symbol of the Universiade. The only anthem to trumpet orchestra starts at 7 in the morning and lasts till late
be heard is the Gaudeamus Igitur, emphasising the at night, thus entertaining around 500 000 visitors. While
international character of the manifestation and showing there, don’t miss wedding cabbage, grilled meat, homemade
that knowledge and spots know no borders. brandy, corn bread with cheese and kajmak, and enjoy
competitions for “harambaša”, best national dress, and the
3 jubilees ceremony of Assembly wedding. www.guca.rs
25th Summer Universiade
50th anniversary of Universiade
60th anniversary of FISU
www.universiade-belgrade2009.org
There have been some amazing changes over the last I’ve seen more change in Novi Sad over the last few years
two decades. In the early 90’s there was the Yugoslav than in all of the previous thirty. As long as I’ve been going
war, which ended with Serbia virtually isolated as one there, it has always struck me as a ‘young’ city, full of
country after another declared its independence from the smart, independent people who loved their music, even
Yugoslav Republic. Then in 1999, the city was bombed if they had to wait a few years to get their hands on what
by NATO in an attempt to destabilize the Milosevic we were listening to in the West. Now - firmly established
government. After three months of shelling, much of the at the centre of the European festival scene - Novi Sad is
city’s infrastructure was destroyed, including all three of tapping out a beat that the rest of Europe dances to.
its bridges across the Danube.
Anna-Maria O’Flynn is director of specialist festival
Returning to Novi Sad in 2001 after 4 years away, what travel company eufest.com, which provides
struck me most was the impact these events had had transport to Exit, and other leading European
on the mood of the city. It seemed as if the younger festivals.
generation – tired of the old ways and of being stuck on the
Salaš 137
Međunarodni put 137
21233 Čenej (12km from Novi Sad)
Information and reservations:
+381 21 71 45 01 or +381 21 71 45 05
www.salas137.rs
24 salaš 137
salads, ham, and sausages served on a wooden platter.
Be sure to try the čekić (hammer) - a bite-size prune stuffed
with aromatic cheese and wrapped in grilled bacon. Ideally,
the ‘hammer’ should be followed by the chicken soup with
homemade noodles (made and cut by hand), after which you
can stretch your legs by taking a leisurely walk around the
compound until the main course arrives (nobody will touch
anything left on your table during your walk). We recommend
you try the stuffed zucchini or the smoked knuckle of
pork topped with horseradish and spices and baked in an
earthenware pot until golden-brown. One of the various types
of sweets on offer and a cup of freshly prepared Serbian
coffee would be a perfect way to end a perfect lunch. The
philosophy behind this type of cuisine is to be able to relish
good food and local wine without having to think about
calories and every-day responsibilities. During the summer
the cool shade of the walnut tree makes a perfect place for
eating outdoors.
On the salaš estates ‘slow food’ has always been ‘in’, so the
Salaš 137 restaurant offers specialties of the local Vojvodina
cuisine, prepared and served in this style. Before start the
meal you need to indulge yourself with aperitifs in the form
of local quince rakija (brandy) and then, while enjoying the
company of friends, nibble on a variety of cheeses, pies,
should doze off after lunch and lose sight of them, you are operating in 37 countries, great attention is given to wildlife
most likely to find them in the stable with various domestic conservation and outdoor education..
animals. You may also bring your dog along to this salaš
since boarding is offered (for both dogs and cats). If it’s well Salaš 137 is only 15 minutes’ drive from Novi Sad. Its
behaved, minds its own business and keeps away from the proximity makes it a tempting option for travellers who
plates of other guests, he will be allowed to run around the cannot find any place to stay in Novi Sad, or those who prefer
yard freely. the country ambiance, away from the hustle and bustle of
As to other adult activities available, archery might be an the city. The road from Novi Sad to Salaš 137 is a local road
interesting sport to try out, whereas golf enthusiasts can called Međunarodni put (International) which will take you
practice their tee shot. You can also take a ride around the directly to Salaš 137, with no turnings. If you are not sure
neighbourhood in a horse-drawn carriage or learn horseback whether you are on the right track, ask any passer-by for
riding. More experienced riders have over 20 horses at the road to Čenej. When you see a sign indicating a left-hand
their disposal for recreational riding. This salaš also offers turn to Čenej whilst on your way from Novi Sad, you should
a playground for children, a mini-football field, volleyball and
badminton, a small gym, sauna, and a massage service.
You can purchase interesting souvenirs at the 24-hour
open reception.
Vojvodina C-2, Trg Slobode 2, tel. 662 21 22, fax 661 €80, suites €80-109). Prices include VAT and breakfast.
54 45, www. hotelvojvodina.co.rs. The oldest hotel in AP HUD FRKGL ««««
town, opened in 1854. It is in the centre of the town on Trg
slobode, so it is ideal for those who prefer being right in the Ile de France B-3, Cara Dušana 41, tel. 636 23 82,
centre of the action to peace and quiet. The atmosphere in www.iledefrance.co.rs. Situated near Novi Sad Fair in
the hotel befits its age and the staff are sometimes sluggish a new building. The parquet-floored rooms are furnished
and disinterested. 59 rooms and 2 suites (singles €39, with balconies and the suits boast a Jacuzzi bath. The hotel
doubles €55, triples €68, suites €75). Prices include VAT feels intimate and homely, as if somebody put you up in
and breakfast. AK ««« their apartment. 14 suites (€45-66). Prices include VAT and
breakfast. PRL
Serbian
Astal šaren C-2, Mite Ružića 4, tel. 52 80 04. A tiny
restaurant with authentic Serbian cuisine and ambiance,
its tables covered with check tablecloths. The short menu
caters for meat fans, offering various grilled dishes and fresh
vegetable salads. The only home-made dish is a veal soup
which is a must order. The place is easy on the pocket and
the dishes are quickly served, so it is far better to come here
than waste your money away on fast food. 4Open 09:00 -
23:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Closed Sun. €. BPS
Ritmo Latino C-2, Sremska 9, tel. 52 80 95. As its name if you wish to have a pleasant conversation with friends.
suggests, this place features hot Latino rhythms bringing 4Open: 08.00-23.30, Friday-Saturday 08:00-01:00, Sunday
even the would-be wallflowers out onto the floor. Fridays are 08:00-23:00. B
usually reserved for RNB & Hip-Hop Night, and Saturdays for
D.J. performances or gigs. Very popular hangout, with nice Sterija C-2, Pozorišni trg 1. One of the more popular
interior decorated with flags from all over the world. 4Open clubs in town. Located in the building of the Serbian National
08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. BGPER Theatre, it is favourite with the actors. In daytime, you can chill
out in the large terrace, but in the evening, the main events
Route 66 B-3, Bulevar Despota Stefana 5, tel. 635 07 take place inside. There are live performances by local pop
90. A popular club, operating as a café by day, housed in an and rock bands almost every night. It does not seem that
airy, warehouse-feeling venue spread over two levels. It is too much care has been given to the interior design and the
spacious enough to support sizeable crowds drawn by pop, impression is further marred by a plasma TV hanging on a
rock, jazz and blues gigs (something to suit everyone’s taste) wall and featuring a local TV station. It is a universal truth that
which start around 23:00. The club sometimes features DJ TV sets in cafés have an uncanny way of absorbing attention
events. 4Open 08:00 - 01:00. BRPEL and killing the conversation. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
08:00 - 03:00. BPE
RST Club B-3, Bulevar despota Stefana 5, tel: 46 89 76.
A nice and unpretentious spot known for live events almost Wheels, Natošićeva 4, tel. 52 25 57. The only all jazz
every night, featuring local pop and rock or global mainstream club in town. Like any other jazz club, it draws people who
hits. The bar and the stage are on the lower level, and there come to listen to good music and weigh up the performers,
are comfy chairs on the upper level to provide a quieter place and who could not care less about the décor of the club or
to chill. While there are no wild parties, there is plenty of good the outfit of its patrons. Apart from the mainstream jazz, on
laid-back fun. 4Open 08:00 - 01:00. PER certain nights the club features French gitan jazz, electro
jazz, and even fado and flamenco performances. 4Open
Skipper, Ribarsko ostrvo bb. The club is located on a 19:00 - 01:00. PE
boat moored by the Fishing Island (don’t try to get there
on foot, take a taxi). As you dance to electronic music on
its glass-walled upper deck, you will enjoy a great view Symbol key
of the Danube and the Freedom Bridge. The dance floor
is surrounded with high tables and bar stools. The best P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
parties are on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. 4Open E Live music S Take away
23:00 - 03:00. PE
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
Skochko’s bar C-2, Zmaj Jovina 21/1, tel 021 66 16 G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
401. New bar with a vide range of both alcohol and non-
alcohol cocktails, based on coffee. Walls are covered with O Casino B Terrace
paintings of artists from Novi Sad, and space is filled with nice R Internet 6 Animal friendly
smell of Cuban cigars. This meeting point is the right choice
Essentials The street ends with the building of the Bishop’s Palace,
which is the see of the Bačka Episcopacy of the Serbian
Downtown - pedestrian zone C-2. The heart of the old Orthodox Church (built in 1901), with the Cathedral Church
town features almost all must-see attractions in Novi Sad. (Saborna) right behind.
The pedestrian zone consists of Zmaj Jovina, Pašićeva, The corner of Zmaj Jovina and Dunavska streets is the
Svetozara Miletića, Laze Telečkog, part of Dunavska location of the oldest preserved house in Novi Sad (1720)
streets, Katolička porta and Trg slobode squares. The known as ‘At the White Lion’s’, which nowadays houses the
Freedom Square (Trg slobode) has been the stage for most Irish Pub. Dunavska street, also packed with shops and
significant events, whether cultural or political. It is also cafés, leads towards the Danube Park and the Danube
the usual rendezvous point and the man place for feeding river. At the beginning of the street, you can see one of
fat pigeons. the pockmarks on the town face - the cannon ball which
remained buried in the building exterior walls (where it
landed during the 1849 shelling of the town). A characteristic
feature of these old streets are numerous passageways
and courtyards concealing many restaurants, cafés and
boutiques, so plunge in and enjoy. The latest town attraction
is the small street of Laze Telečkog, full of cafés, bars and
restaurants.
The green symbol of the town C-2 The living, green symbol
of Novi Sad is the Hackberry (Celtis Australis) tree located in
the promenade zone in Modene street. This 18 m tall giant
has a treetop 22 m in diameter and the perimeter of the trunk
is around 3,5 m. It was protected as a Natural monument in
1978 due to its biological and outstanding ambient value.
Museums
The Pavle Beljanski Memorial Collection C-2, Trg
Galerija 2, tel. 472 99 66. The legacy of Pavle Beljanski, a
diplomat and art collector. The collection features paintings
by finest Serbian artists of the first half of the 20th century
(including Nadežda Petrović, Sava Šumanović and Petar
Lubarda) as well as sculptures, drawings and tapestries.
4Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon, Tue.
Admission 100 dinars, children 50 dinars.
Out of Town
Fruška Gora Mountain. Fruška Gora mountain stretches
over the southern border of the Panonia plain except a
small western section which lies Croatia. Its highest peak
is „Crveni čot“ at 539 m. This is a natural habitat of rare
animals and herbs, a large part of it was declared National
park in 1960. During the Roman time, Emperor Probus
brought the wine grapes to the Fruška Gora. Since than, the
Fruška Gora slopes have well suited for grapes and there
are many wine makers. The best sorts of wines are Riesling,
Traminer and Bermet . Fruška Gora is close to Novi Sad
(20 minutes drive), but far enough so visitors can enjoy and
rest in the beautiful surroundings. This „small mountain“
also offers artificial lakes, mountain paths (800 km marked
Dial-up connection
Post Internet access that does not requre any sign-up or adjusting
Post office C-2, Narodnih Heroja 2, tel. 61 47 08, 4Open the settings, charged through your monthly telephone invoice,
07:00 - 19:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00 tel. 042 21 01 10. Username and password: Any.
Post office B-3, Vojvođanska 5, tel. 46 71 01, 4Open
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun
Post office C-2, Trg Marije Trandafil 10, tel. 42 30 85, WiFi Hotspots
4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun. Dunavski Park C-2
Ritmo Latino C-2, Sremska 9, tel. 52 80 95
Route 66 B-3, Bulevar Despota Stefana 5, tel. 635 07 90
Express Mail
DHL C-2, Apolo Centre, Trg Slobode 3, tel. 661 48 92.
4Open 08:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun.
Post Express, tel. (011)360 76 07. Operating in the
territory of Srbija. 4Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00,
Closed Sun.
Making a phonecall
To call a local number within Novi Sad, dial the number
directly, and to make a call to another area, dial
the relevant area code first. To call abroad, dial the
international access code (99), followed by the country
code, the area code and the phone number. When you
are making a call to a mobile, first dial the prefix of the
mobile phone. To call a land line from a mobile, you need
to dial the area code before the phone number (the area
code for Novi Sad is 021).
You can make a telephone call from Halo telephone booths.
You will need a Halo telephone card (for local and international
calls) or Halo Plus telephone card (for international calls only)
available at kiosks and post offices for 300 and 600 dinars
respectively. A call to the UK or the USA with one Halo card
will last about 8.5 and 4.5 minutes respectively. A Halo Plus
card allows longer calls: 40 minuta with the UK or 30 minutes
with the USA. When buying Halo Plus card you must choose
between three types of the card: for overseas calls, for calls
to European countries, and for calls to the countries of the
former Yugoslavia.
Mobile phones
There are three mobile operators in Serbia: MTS (064, 065),
Telenor, (062, 063) and VIP Mobile (060, 061). Pre-paid
packages and recharge cards for all three networks are
available at their retail shops, kiosks and supermarkets, and
in case of MTS network in post offices as well.
Banks
Banca Intesa C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 4 Office furniture
Erste Bank B-2, Bulevar oslobođenja 5, tel. 0800 Astra, Đakona Avakuma 33, tel. 641 15 14, www.
201 201 astrans.net
Komercijalna Bank B-2, Kralja Petra I 11, tel. 52 12 86 Ivex B-3, Cara Dušana 26, tel. 46 90 25, www.ivexns.
Meridian Bank- Credit Agricole Group B-2, Braće co.rs
Ribnikar 4-6, tel. 487 68 76
Metals Bank C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 25, tel.
557347 Translators
NLB Continental Bank C-2, Trg Mladenaca 1-3, tel. Proverbum B-2, Hajduk Veljkova 11/IV, tel. 472 52 27,
661 55 00 www.proverbum.com.
OTP Bank C-2, Grčkoškolska 2, tel. 42 61 93 Udruženje naučnih i stručnih prevodilaca Vojvodine C-3,
Piraeus Bank C-2, Kralja Aleksandra 3, tel. 42 01 08 Resavska 3, tel. 635 06 64
Lifestyle directory 47
Photo service
Key cuts Canon M B-2, Bulevar Oslobođenja 4b, tel. 477 00 00
Tresor A-3, Stevana hladnog bb. If you lock yourself out
late at night call tel. (063)68 05 65.
Shoe repair
Krle B-2, Bulevar Kralja Petra I 26, tel. 633 04 22.
Dry cleaners 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun
Elegant B-3, Lasla Gala 9, tel. 661 51 15. 4Open 08:30
- 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:00, Closed Sun.
Pop’s B -2, Mercator Shopping Centre, Bulevar Bookshops
oslobođenja 102, tel. 636 76 45. 4Open 08:00 - 22:00, Mamut Megastore C-2, Zmaj Jovina 15, tel. 661 41 31.
Sun 08:00 - 20:00. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun.
IPS Bazar Store C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 1, tel.
423-810. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
Launderettes
Una A-1, Rumenačka 39, 51 05 40. 4Open 09:00 -
18:00, Closed Sun. Gifts & Souvenirs
NS Škrinja C-2, Dunavska 17 (Passage), (063)41 21 69.
4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun.
Libraries Prestige C-2, Zmaj Jovina 2, tel. 57 11 31.
City Library C-2, Dunavska 1, tel. 45 12 33. 4Open Tradicija B-2, Jevrejska 23 (Passage Papilon), tel.
07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00, Closed Sun. (063)36 40 02. Orthodox Icons. 4Open 09:30 - 20:00,
Sat 09:30 - 14:00, Closed Sun.
Markets
Futoška pijaca B-2, Jevrejska 42, tel. 661 67 42. 4Open
06:00 - 17:00, Sun 06:00 - 14:00.
Riblja pijaca C-2, Trg Republike 18, tel. 52 49 27,
4Open 06:00 - 17:00, Sun 06:00 - 14:00.
www.inyourpocket.com
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Novi Sad
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Serbia
Index 51