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The place where two pieces of fabric are joined by application of a series of stitches or stitch types with a defined geometry to one or several thicknesses of fabric material is defined as Seam. There are different kinds of seam constructions, used depending on whether the seam is a decorative element of the design, the kind of fabric used, or how much stress is placed on the seam. Some of the most commonly used seam types are superimposed seams, lapped seams, bound seams, flat seams, edge finished seams, ornamental seams. There are subdivisions depending on the fabric layers and direction of stitching.
Elasticity: Elasticity of sewn seam should be slightly greater than that of the material which it joins. This will enable the material to support its shape of the forces encountered for the intended end use of the sewn item. The elements effecting the elasticity and strength of a sewn seam depends upon fabric type and strength, seam type, stitch type, stitch density (SPI), thread tension, and thread strength and elasticity. Durability: Durability of a sewn seam depends largely upon its strength relative to the elasticity of the seam and the elasticity of the material. For making durable sewn seam, the thread size and stitch density must be carefully chosen to avoid puckering. Security: Security of sewn seam depends chiefly upon the stitch type, SPI, and its susceptibility to become unravelled. The stitch must be well set to the material to prevent snagging that can cause rupture of the thread and unravelling of certain stitch types. Appearance: Appearance of a sewn seam generally is governed by the proper relationship between the size and type of thread, the stitch density, and the texture and weight of the fabric.
Flat Seam (FS): A flat seam is constructed by having two pieces of fabric meet precisely at their edges. A cover stitch is used to sew the two pieces of fabric together. This stitch has multiple needles and creates a stitch perpendicular to the seam line. This creates a flat seam. Plain seam is a flat seam. Edge Finished Seams (EF): This seam is used to prevent the edges of the fabric from rolling or curling. Primarily used for knit fabrics and is suitable for straight or curved seams and edges. Ornamental Seam (OS): this seam is made using machines with zigzag capability. It is used on a plain seam on woven or knit fabric. The zigzag stitch length (coverage) must be adjusted to accommodate and prevent fabric from ravelling. The more the fabric ravels, the closer together the stitches need to be (tighter or shorter stitch length).
Smooth and even in appearance on the inside and outside. (Properly adjust machine tension, stitch length, and presser foot pressure to suit the fabric and thread. Fabric should not pucker)
Even in width through out Pressed open or closed according to the type of seam and how it is used in the construction process
Loose Stitches Poorly formed stitches Crowded stitches Tight stitches Crooked stitches Skipped stitches
Puckers Twists Plaits Undulations Run-off (raised seams) Raw edges exposed (felled seams)
When stitched with thread, the thread should be appropriate to the fabric type and fibre content. Thread colour should match or slightly darkest.
Free from ravelling, stretching, rolling and curling. Should not be visible from right side of garment.
What is stitch?
One unit of confirmation of thread resulting from repeatedly passing a strand or strands or loops of thread into or through a material is called a stitch.
Stitch Items:
Intra-looping is passing of a loop of thread through another loop formed by the same thread, example stitch type 101.
Interloping is passing of a loop of thread through another loop formed by a different thread, example stitch type 401.
Interlacing is passing of a thread over or around another thread or loop of another thread, example stitch type 301.
Without a material
Stitch quality
Stitch quality is measured with stitch size (stitch length, width, and depth) tension, sequence, elongation, elasticity, resilience, fabric distortion, yarn severance, abrasive strength.
Class 100:
is chain stitch type, is formed with one or more needle threads introduced from one side of the material only.
chain stitch is elastic and thicker than lockstitch and can easily be ravelled; particular care is required to prevent runback from the last stitch. Used for temporary stitching or for Blind stitching.
Class 200:
is a hand stitch type, is formed by single thread passed from one side of the material to the other in successive needle penetrations.
a slow process and need huge manpower to finish bulk order. Used for handwork.
Class 300:
is a lock stitch type, is formed by a needle thread or threads, introduced from one side of the material, interlacing with an under thread
low bulk and thin, good strength and abrasion resistance Poor elasticity, non ravel limited sewing length, need to replace bobbin thread. for seams requiring stretch.
Class 400:
is multi thread chain stitch type, is formed with two/more groups of threads having general characteristic of interlacing interloping of the loops of the two groups.
non ravel, strong, good elasticity, less likely to cause seam pucker due to structural jamming good seam stretch does not need to wind bobbin lower resistance to runback and have increased bulk under the seam
Stitch classes
Stitch classes are designated and identified by the first digit of a 3 digit numeral system. Type of stitch within each class are designated and identified by 2nd and 3rd digit.
Class 500:
is over lock over edge stitch type, is formed with one or more needles and/or loopier threads with at least one thread passing round the edge of the material being sewn.
Excellent stretchable good recovery Seam or edge neatening suitable for many types of fabric subject to fraying or slippage.
Class 600:
is formed with two or more groups of threads, has for a general characteristic that two groups of thread cover surfaces of the material.
High elasticity, seam neatening and Flat seam stitch, Bulk, Fast machine speed No need of Bobbin Greater thread consumption Covering stitches for decorative purpose, Can be used to join two raw edges, suitable for knitted garments.