Part , Description , Radio Shack , Digi Key , Newark Notes IC1 LM741 Op-Amp 276-007 LM741CN-ND LM741CN NE741,A741,

etc. Q1 2N2222A transistor 276-2009 2N2222A-ND 2N3904 See text D1 1N4148 Diode 276-1122 1N4148GICT-ND 1N4001 1N4001, or others Th1 50K Thermistor KC005T-ND 96F3309 KC005T in prototype Re1 12V Relay 275-249 Z753-ND 83F8057 RS is 1A R1 15K, 5% resistor 84N2487 brown-green-orange R2,R5 10K, 5% resistor 84N2479 brown-black-orange R3 150K, 5% resistor 84N2485 brown-green-yellow R4 4K7, 5% resistor 271-1330 50N1628 yellow-purple-red R6 1K, 5% resistor 271-1321 50N6012 brown-black-red R7 1K8, 5% resistor P1 100K Trimmer Pot C1 10uF/25V Capacitor C2 0.01uF, Capacitor Led Red, 3mm brown-gray-red Bourns Electrolytic Ceramic

Light Emitting Diode Spare parts:

Auto Fan Part on Board Q1 = 2N3053, 2N3904, NTE123A, ECG123A, NTE128, ECG128, etc. D1 = 1N4001, NTE519, ECG519, NTE116 etc. Th1 = Thermistor, 22K 100K. 50K used in the prototype. Re1 = Relay, Type 842-1C-C Fashion Electronics. Order # 50-333-0 (1.55 $) Reed relay works well.

To give a better performance, the negative temperature coefficient thermistor (NTC) as the temperature sensor should be placed as close as possible to the IC power transistor to make sure a tight thermal contact, installing it on the heat sink is also a good idea. You also can set the VR1 at theheat sink temperature (70 degree Celcius). Another alternative (use at your own risk) is turn on your amplifier volume to maximum and use your finger to touch the heat sink regularly and adjust VR1 to activate the fan at heat intensity until the maximum temp you can stand to touch. And the LEDindicator will give you the information that the fan is active.

Read more: http://electronicsuite.com/regulate/automatic-fan-regulator-circuit-diagram-using-iclm311/#ixzz1Urm5dXQB

Replacement Parts:
Q1 D1 Th1 Re1 = = = = 2N3053, 2N3904, NTE123A, ECG123A, NTE128, ECG128, etc. 1N4001, NTE519, ECG519, NTE116 etc. Thermistor, 22K - 100K. Used 50K in prototype. Relay. A reed relay will work too.

Newark Electronics Digi-Key Radio Shack/Tandy Radio Shack's pittyful selection of parts these days is a real headache. So I'm no longer gonna waste my time looking for partnumbers. Unless I'm sure they carry the part. Too bad...

Couple Notes: Th1, the 50K thermistor, is a standard type. Mine was a bar or rectangular looking thingy. Available from Tandy/Radio-Shack. Almost any type will do. I experimented with different models from 22K to 100K and all worked fine after replacing the trimmer pot. The one used in the above circuit diagram was a 50K model made by Fenwal (#197503LAG-A01). This 50K was measured at exactly 25 C and with 10% tolerance. The resistance increases as the surrounding temperature decreases. Tolerance for my application (cooling a large powersupply coolrib) is 10%. Another name for this thing is 'NTC'. NTC stands for "Negative Temperature Coefficient" which means when the surrounding temperature decreases the resistance of this thermistor will increase. You may have to shop around to get the cheapest price. Some thermistors can be had for as

little as $4.00 but as much as $55.00 Canadian currency for the glass encapsulated type (the best). I replaced my thermistor for a 60K hermetically sealed glass type since the environment for my application may contain corrosive particles which may affect performance on a future date. P1 is a regular Bourns trimmer potentiometer and adjusts a wide range of temperatures for this circuit. I used the 10-turn type for a bit finer adjustment but the regular type may work for your application. R1 is a 'security' resistor just in case the trimmer pot P1 is adjusted all the way to '0' ohms. At which time the thermistor would get the full 12 volt and it will get so hot that it puts blisters on your fingers... :-) R3 feeds a bit of hysteresis back into the op-amp to eliminate relay 'chatter' when the temperature of the thermistor reaches its threshold point. Depending on your application and the type you use for Q1 and Re1, start with 330K or so and adjust its value downwards until your satisfied. The value of 150K shown in the diagram worked for me. Decreasing the value of R2 means more hysteresis, just don't use more then necessary. Or temporarily use a trimmer pot and read off the value. 120K worked for me. Transistor Q1 can be a 2N2222(A), 2N3904, NTE123A, ECG123A, etc. Not critical at all. It acts only as a switch for the relay so almost any type will work, as long as it can provide the current needed to activate the relay's coil. D1, the 1N4148, acts as a spark arrestor when the contacts of the relay open and eliminates false triggering. For my application the 1N4148 was good enough since the tiny relay I used was only 1 amp. However, you can use a large variety of diodes here, my next choice would be a regular purpose 1N4001 or something and should be used if your relay type can handle more then 1 amp. If you like to make your own pcb, try the one below. The pcb is fitted with holes for the relay but may not fit your particular relay. It was designed for a Aromat HB1DC12V type. The variety and model of relays is just to great. How to mount it then? Well, I left ample space on the pcb to mount your relay. You can even mount it upside-down and connect the wires individually. Use Silicon glue, cyanoacrylate ester (crazy glue), or double-sided tape to hold the relay in place. Works well. Note that the pcb and layout is not according to the circuit diagram in regards to the hookup of the fans. The PCB measures approximately 1.5 x 3 inches (4.8 x 7.6mm) If you print the pcb to an inkjet printer it is probably not to scale. Try to fit a 8-pin ic socket on the printed copy to make sure it fits before making the pcb...

Automatic fan controller circuit

This circuit will turn on/off 12V DC fan or CPU fan when temperature above normal temperature.You can set turn on temperature by adjust VR1. This circuit use an NTC (Negative temperature coefficient)which is a thermistor is one in which the zero-power resistance decreases with an increase in temperature. So If temperature increate the voltage at pin 3 on LM311 will decreated .The resistance of NTC is about 10K at 25c. VR1 should be multi-turn potentiometer type such 10K/25 turn

Abstract: The automatic temperature control system is a very essential feature of a factory or an industry. In most of the case the temperature plays a vital role in the process of manufacturing or the process carried in that factory or industry. The most common and simplest way of controlling temperature is by using a fan

which is automatically connected to a network such as it is switched on when the temperature of the surroundings increases. The change in temperature of the surroundings can be sensed with the help of thermistor or a sensistor. These electronic components sense the temperature of the surroundings. When there is a change in the temperatue tempetature then these electronic components start to conduct the electric current. This is the main principle of the automatic control devices. These devices can be extended to an extent that we can set the temperature when the fan should rotate.

Overview

he circuits below are variations on basic thermostat designs that can

be used to control either heating or cooling devices. I've tried to make them as simple, cheap, and thrifty with power as possible. I'm rather fond of them. Potential applications include such diverse jobs as opening flaps or controlling heat in greenhouses, powering automatic fans that only cut in when needed, homebrew cooling and warming, air conditioning, space heating, incubators, and just about anything electrical that needs a thermostat to control it between the temperatures of -20 and 125C. They make use of small components called thermistors, which provide much more accurate response to temperature change than traditional mechanical thermostats.

Simple version
Choose this circuit unless you:

Need especially tight hysteresis (or control rangesee explanation below) Need to drive a heavier relay or other load that will draw more than 50mA Are powering it with small batteries and want to minimise power consumption

The above circuit uses three fewer components than the one below, thanks to the handy and unusual ability of the LM311 integrated circuit to sink up to 50mA directly through its output. This means that no separate transistor is needed for activating many common relay coils, such as the SY4062 from Jaycar that I've used. The 311 is a purpose-built comparator chip (these circuits work by comparing a set voltage with a changing one produced by the inversely temperature-sensitive thermistor). For this application, however, it's a bit like using a Ferrari to do the work of a wheelbarrow. The 311 is very sensitive and, unless significant feedback is provided, stray electrical noise will tend to make it oscillate (the relay will get jittery). In practice, this means adjusting the VR2 trimpot to achieve a minimum of about 1C of hysteresis at 25C (hysteresis is the interval between the points at which the circuit switches on and off, the range of control). One degree is perfectly appropriate for most uses; but if you need a really tight hysteresis zone, use the circuit below.

Note that keeping all the left-hand-side resistors physically as close as possible to the IC chip helps reduce stray noise. This circuit draws about 3.5 to 4mA of current in the resting state, which is peanuts in anyone's language, although the version below draws around 2mA (both measured using 16 volt supplyconsumption will be even less at lower voltages).

Versatile version
Choose this circuit if you:

Need especially tight hysteresis (or control rangesee explanation above) Need to drive a heavier relay or other load that will draw more than 50mA Are powering it with small batteries and need minimal power consumption (see paragraph above)

The above version replaces the LM311 comparator with a 741 operational amplifier integrated circuit acting as a comparator. It is

less sensitive to minute disturbances and will allow hysteresis down to 0.5C or less (at 25C) without becoming jittery. It can also drive much higher loads thanks to the use of a separate transistor (but see notes 2&3 below).

Instructions for both versions

Cooling or heating? Both circuits are displayed as cooling thermostats. But in both cases swapping the main inputs to pins 2 and 3 on the IC (integrated circuit, triangle symbol) converts these designs into heater control thermostats. If you do swap these two inputs for heater control, don't swap the hysteresis feedback to the IC [always leave it connected to the same pin as shown, i.e. pin 2 in the simple version and pin 3 in the versatile version]). Optionally, a double-pole-double-throw (DPDT) switch can be employed if you want your thermostat to perform both heating and cooling control. Wire the switch so that it acts as an intermediary, swapping the inputs to IC pins 2 & 3, as described above. Accessibility: Decide whether you want to use the thermostat as a readily-adjustable device (like a wall thermostat) or as a singletemperature, set-and-forget device. If the latter, a trimpot can be used at VR3, or a single trimpot (perhaps a 20k item) can be used in place of both VR1 and VR3although a single high-resistance trimpot will be touchier to adjust. Calibration: Start by setting VR2 to roughly the middle of its adjustment arc. Then, assuming you are using two trimpots in series as per the diagrams above, you will need to set the minimum temperature of your desired adjustment-range with the VR1 trimpot. Do this by setting VR3 to its maximum resistance, bringing the thermistor to the temperature you want to use as the minimum, then adjusting VR1 so that the circuit trips at that point. Next you can either set (if using a trimpot) or calibrate (if using a potentiometer and panel-mounted dial) VR3. If calibrating a scale, it will not be perfectly linear because of the thermistor's natural response curve, so you'll need to mark off several points. Before firmly committing to

either a scale or set-point, adjust the hysteresis trimpot, VR2, to provide an effect that suits your application. This change might throw off your scale or set-point slightly, so go back and check. My unit, which matches the above diagram, is adjusted for a minimum temperature of about 18 Celsius. The main 5k panel-mounted pot extends the range up to about 28C, marked in increments of one degree. If you want a wider range, use a 10k pot at VR3. If you wish to use the circuit for much lower or higher temperatures (the thermistor is rated for 20 to 125C), you can subject the thermistor to the target temperature range extremes, measure its resistances with a multimeter, and plan out your pot values accordingly. The thermistor has lower resistance at higher temperatures. Its rated resistance of 10k occurs at 25C. At 30C it is more like 7k and at 17C it's something like 14k. See note 6 below if you want to work with much colder or hotter temperatures. Warning: If you intend to use high voltage / household mains electricity in conjunction with these circuits, make sure you comply with local laws. Do not attempt to work with mains power unless you are suitably competent or qualified. I take no responsibility for damage or injury you might cause by electing to build, modify, or add to these circuits. Shopping: All parts used in these circuits should be readily available around the world. Radio Shack in the US carries an equivalent thermistor, for example, and possibly all the other parts too (or try Digikeysee Postscript 3 below). Here in Australia, Jaycar and Altronics, stock everything. Dick Smith only carry a 100k thermistor, which would suit a modified circuit for higher temps (note 6), but last I heard they were getting out of the components side of their business. Jaycar and Dick Smith are in NZ too. Parts in yellow are used in the second 'versatile version' circuit only.

Parts list
Component Detail Data Jaycar Cat Price

Sheet LM311 or LM741 PN200 or similar PNP type IN4148 or IN914 10k resistors 10k NTC thermistor 10k trimpot 500k or 1meg trimpot 5k linear potentiometer (or trimpot for set-&forget) PDF PDF PDF PDF PDF

No. ZL3311 ZL3741 ZT2284 ZR1100

approx, AUD 1.30 0.25 0.32 / 5pk 0.38?? / 8

IC Transistor Diode R1,2,3,4 R5 VR1 VR2

RN3440

0.95 0.32 0.32

VR3

2.25 / (0.32) $4-6 total !!

Extra components you might want

A power supply such as a plug pack or battery. 12 volts will provide easy compatibility with common relays, computer fans, bulbs, etc. A relay of some kind if you intend to switch high currents and/or voltages (I chose Jaycar's SY4062) A piece of punched fibreglass board on which to build the circuit, available in electronics supply shops. Alternatively, and if you have the expertise, you can make a printed circuit board using the files provided in the postscripts below. An 8-pin socket to suit the integrated circuit. For a few extra cents, this protects the IC from soldering heat.

A housing of some kind. Jaycar and Altronics have great project boxes if you're in Oz/NZ, otherwise electrical wholesalers carry big plastic junction-box thingos that can be used. A front panel knob for the temperature-set pot. Optionally, a double pole-double throw (DPDT) switch will allow the unit to control both heating and cooling apparatus. See above, under Heating or Cooling?.

Notes
1. The thermistor can be used as a remote probe. It can be encased in silicone, epoxy, or something similar for applications where it will be immersed in liquid. 2. In theory, this circuit should work with anything between 5 and 36 volts DC. If you deviate too far from the middle ground of this voltage range, however, you might need to tweak some of the righthand-side resistor values. I'm not sure. My circuits run at 16v, employing a 150 ohm / 0.5w resistor in series with the relay coil to drop the voltage to around the 12v it requires.

3. Likewise, if using higher currents through the transistor to power, say, a heavy-duty relay, solenoid, fan, or lamp, you might need to reduce the value of R4 down to 5k, 1k, or lower to ensure that the transistor remains saturated. The 10k item as depicted is known to work with a relay coil drawing 50mA, so any coil requiring less would be covered too, provided your circuit voltage is not too much lower than mine. In fact, the above also worked with R4 at 20k, so there's some leeway built in. If your circuit doesn't work for you, either consult some appropriate literature on configuring transistors, or maybe try a 500ohm resistor at R4, and work your way up. When the transistor is adequately saturated, the voltage at its collector (the 'C' pin) should be near Vcc (the circuit's full positive voltage). 4. The maximum current available to power the relay, solenoid, etc, is dictated by the "Ic" rating of the PNP transistor chosen. Consult the data sheets for your intended load device and transistor. The PN200 used here will handle up to 500mA. 5. The diode protects the IC from damaging voltage spikes caused by the collapse of the relay coil's field when it shuts off. Omit this component only if you're powering something without a coil. If powering a fan in equipment sensitive to radio noise, place an electrolytic capacitor across the fan junction (say, 1000 microfarad). 6. If you intend to control much higher or lower temperatures, you might want to consider using a thermistor better matched to your target temperatures. The NTC (negative thermal coefficient) thermistor will have a much higher resistance in sub-zero temperatures and much lower in, say, boiling water. A 4.7k or 1k thermistor would probably be more appropriate for cold conditions; a 47k item, at least, would better suit the hotter end of things (remembering that these thermistors are physically rated for -20 to 125C, so cryogenics and furnace work is out!). The point is to balance the comparator's voltage seesaw (so that the resistance feeding the "-" pin on the IC is similar to that feeding the "+" pin). You might notice that these circuits, operating around the 25C point, use two resistors at the top-left that coincide with the thermistor's resistance around that temperature (10k @ 25C).

Similarly, the temperature-control pots attempt to anticipate and match the thermistor's resistance swing through the operational temperature range. So if you know you will be working with more extreme temperatures, buy a thermistor at least one step removed in the series and you might be pleasantly surprised to find that the above circuits need minimal or no modification. See the thermistor data sheet for options.

[Update] Ilija has kindly tipped me off to this formula for calculating NTC resistance at a targeted temperature (where T is in degrees Kelvin). He provides the following example for 35C: R(35) = 10000*e^4100(1/273.15+25 1/273.15+35) = 6350 ohm. 7. Optionally, you might like to calculate and modify your circuit's expected hysteresis, and learn more about the Schmitt Trigger concept that these circuits employ at this site. There you will find a useful online calculator for key circuit values. Or you can refer to the following Schmitt Trigger formulae (again, thanks to Ilija).

8. Powering the circuits with a battery: To calculate how long a battery would last, you need to know how many 'milliamp-hours' it is

rated at. This information should be provided by the manufacturer, or you could look up ratings for a similar battery online. It is a number expressed as mAhr, mAh, ma/hr, or something similar. A large battery like a lead-acid car battery will be rated in amp-hours. One amp-hour is a thousand milliamp-hours. Say you're building the 'versatile version' circuit above, which draws 2mA, then a 2000 mA/h battery would last 1000 hours, or about 41 days. The 'simple version' circuit would draw up to twice as much, so the same battery would last maybe half as long. These currents were measured with my 16 volt supply. Using a lower voltage will also reduce the current draw significantly, so choose a 9v or 12v battery and you will do yourself a favour. An ordinary 9v alkaline battery of the type found in smoke alarms will be rated at something like 500 mA/h. A rechargeable NiMH equivalent will only be 200 mA/h or less. So neither will last for very many days, but the latter can be recharged at least. A stack of six AA NiMH rechargeable camera batteries in series, each typically rated at 2000 or 2500 mA/h, might be a useful solution, although NiMH cells are only 1.2 volts each, totaling 7.2v so see note (2) above. You can buy small 12v leadacid batteries from electronics or hobby suppliers for reasonable prices. These come in all sizes. Here's one from Jaycar, that gives you 6000 mA/h for 28 bucks Australian. In theory it'd last something like four months on the 'versatile version' circuit between charges (although lead-acid batteries, like the one in your car, gradually go flat over time even when they're doing nothing, so you'd probably need to charge it a bit more frequently). A very small solar panel hooked up to the battery would be perfect. If you have mains power available, a 12v DC plugpack won't cost much and will provide an easy solution. There's no reason to use a power supply with a higher voltage unless you have an old plugpack or transformer lying around already (which is why I used 16v for mine). 9. By the way, your power supply's negative is connected to the ground or earth symbol (lower) side of the circuit...

In conclusion
Please don't be fooled by the above into thinking that I know heaps about electronics. This has been a collaborative effort with the people listed below. If you have really serious technical questions, there's probably no point contacting me; but I'd be very pleased to hear any stories of success and obscure / creative uses.

Postscript 1
Ilija has very kindly provided a few files detailing his reportedly successful prototype adaptation of the LM741 circuit above. He has incorporated a simple mains / 10 volt power supply into the circuit which drives a TIC226 triac load. Many thanks Ilija! Note that the power supply portion of Ilija's circuit contains an error. The BZV10 is actually rated at 6.2V, not 10V. Ilija's intention was to use any 10V zener diode. Alternatively, he suggests a 7810 voltage regulator instead of the zener, which will provide for more stable voltage. Note also that I have not tested these variations myself and cannot vouch for their effectiveness. I presume that the PCB design would have to be slightly modified for a 7810, for example, and I see that the layout in the top picture does not quite match the photograph. Eagle format printed circuit board (5kb) Eagle format schematic (29kb) Browser image schematic (40kb)

Postscript 2 [October 2009]

A huge thank-you to Andrew, who has shared his PCB design files and notes for a caravan refrigerator controller. He found that the fridge's existing temperature regulation wasn't up to scratch, and my circuit brought things under control nicely. He has included an onboard filtered power supply for 12 volts and a LED indicator. Andrew has had his board produced by a commercial manufacturer, and it definitely works. Click these images for enlargements or see the Eagle files below:

Eagle format printed circuit board (24kb) Eagle format schematic (277kb) Explanatory notes in PDF format (33kb) Explanatory notes in Word format (54kb)

Fan control temperature using sensor LM35

Basic circuit of the LM35 are made to control the fan is either used on amplifier that requires automatic cooling. Its use on power amplifier circuit above and only requires DC fan. From basic sensors based on ic and amplifier op-amp is added again to the transistor Q1 to drive the fan.

Part List : R1___220K R2___100K R3___3K3 R4___22K R5___1M R6___150R R7___2K2 R8___33R 4W C1___100pF D1___1N4148 IC1__7915 IC2__TL072 IC3__LM35 F1___DC Fan 12V

In many times in some audio applications or other electronic applications we need a fan controller to keep the temperature of some elements from circuit on a constant temperature or just to keep the device at low temperature . In many applications we need to cooling the heatsink or ventilate the air inside the device . With this fan controller circuit from this schematic we can make an automatic ventilation . For this electronic fan controller circuit we need just few cheap and common electronic components . The fan controller circuit schematic presented in this sheet is build using a 741 operational amplifier , one thermistor and other few components . This fan control ( fan cooling ) circuit will control a 12 volt fan with maximum current required around 200 mA. For sensing the temperature is use a #271-110 thermistor which turns the fan on when the temperature exceeds 31 degrees C. If you would like to turn the fan on at a different temperature you can replace the 8.2K resistor ( R4) with a 10K trimmer pot. For this fan cooling controller circuit you can use a power supply with a output voltage between 12 and 15 volts dc .

Small-scale atmospheric circulation is the hot water boiler heating to forced circulation by pump. Burned when boiler water temperature about 85 , the need to manually start the pump, so water began circulating heat exchange; when the cycle of water temperature gradually dropped to about 50 , the need to manually turn off the pump, stop the water cycle, continue to burn boilers; until the water temperature rose again to 85 , and then manually start the pump to cycle. Kotelshchik need to always check the boiler temperature, and then decide whether to start and stop the pump, so as not to boil the water inside the boiler caused by increased pressure within the heating system safety hazard. This example describes the atmospheric pressure boiler automatic temperature controller that enables the boiler water temperature reaches 85 start automatically when the pump work, the water temperature dropped to 50 , the pump shut down automatically. Circuit Work The atmospheric pressure boiler automatic temperature controller circuit consists of power supply circuit, the temperature detection control circuit, trigger circuit and control the work of the implementation status indication circuit, as shown. Temperature detection control circuit by the temperature sensor RT, resistors R1 ~ R5, potentiometer RP1, RP2, and operational amplifier integrated circuit IC1

(N1, N2) components. Trigger NAND gate integrated circuit by four internal NAND gate IC2 D1 ~ D4 composition. Control the implementation of the circuit by the resistor R7, transistors V, diode VD and relays K composition. Working status indicator circuit consists of current limiting resistor R6 and the light-emitting diodes composed of VL. Power circuit from the power switch S, the power transformer T, rectifier bridge pile UR, three-terminal voltage regulator integrated circuit IC3 and filter capacitors C1, C2 composition. Turn the power switch S, AC 220V step-down voltage by T, UR rectifier, C1 filter and voltage regulator IC3, the two ends of the C2 +5 V voltage supply temperature detection control circuit, trigger and control the implementation of the circuit. Temperature sensor and resistor R1 form RT temperature detection circuit; potentiometer RP1 and resistors R2, R3 form the lower temperature limit setting circuit; RP2 and M, R5 form the upper temperature limit setting circuit. Adjusting the resistance of RP1, you can make A point (N1 op amp inverting input) voltage varies between 1.74 ~ 2.29V; adjust the resistance of RP2, can make the B (N2 op amp inverting input) voltage varied between 2.53 ~ 3V. The resistance temperature sensor RT decreases with increasing temperature. When the boiler water temperature exceeds a set temperature of the upper limit (eg 85 ) when, C point (M inverting input terminal and the N2 of the positive phase input terminal) voltage will b e higher than the B point voltage, N2 output high so that the output of D flip-flop goes high point, V full pass, K pull its normally open contact connected through the exchange of contacts (circuit not shown) to pump the work of the power-on, pump starts running, so that hot water to start the cycle. With the decline in water temperature, RT increases the resistance, so that gradually reduce the

voltage of C points. When the water temperature below the set temperature, the lower limit (eg 50 ),, C point voltage will be lower than the A point voltage, N1 output high level, so that point D goes low, V cut-off, K release, water pumps stop operation. Start the pump running, VL light; the pump stops working, VL off. Component selection R1 ~ R7 selected 1/4W carbon film resistors or metal film resistors. RP1 and RP2 are made of a linear potentiometer. RT NTC negative temperature coefficient selected thermistor (temperature is 5k). C1 and C2 are selected voltage is 16V aluminum electrolytic capacitors. VD use 1N4148 silicon switching diodes. 3mm or 5mm VL use light-emitting diodes. UR chosen 2A, 50V rectifier bridge heap. V use 58050 or C8050, 3DC8050 silicon NPN transistor. IC1 LM324-based selection of quad op amp IC; IC2 use or CC4011 CD4011 NAND gate integrated circuit type four; IC3 use LM7805-type three-terminal integrated voltage regulator. T use 3 ~ 5W, the second voltage is 9V power transformer. K selection JQX-14FF-type or 4098 Series 5V DC relay.

You are here: Home> schematics> control circuit> temperature control circuit NE555 constitute breeze ceiling fan temperature controller circuit time :2008-0921 11:50:39 Figure shows the breeze ceiling fan temperature control circuit. It consists of temperature control circuit and the step-down rectifier power circuit. The control circuit power supply circuit which provides DC voltage VDD = 5V. The core temperature control circuit for the IC (555) and R5, R7, W1, R6 and other components of the bistable flip-flop, and, R6, R7 NTC thermistor used as temperature measurement devices. When the ambient temperature increases, the corresponding R6, R7's resistance becomes smaller, the IC potential decreased due to less than 1/3VDD feet were set, 3 pin output high. So that the D2 ~ D5, SCR, BG1, BG2 and other components of the SCR AC switch is zero pressure, the fan power and running for D; when the ambient temperature decreases, the corresponding R7, R6 larger the resistance, 555 feet because of potential increased to more than 1/3VDD be reset, pin output low, so that the exchange of zero-voltage switching SCR off, disconnect the power supply fan D stopped by. When debugging, you can set the temperature points as needed. When the ambient temperature is higher than the set temperature, the fan automatically open; when the ambient temperature is below the set temperature, the fan from the stop. Stability for the adjustment potentiometer potentiometer W1, corresponding to the temperature dial can be marked. Top click Temperature controller circuit works: This example describes the intermittent controller can automatically control the electric heaters, humidifiers, electric set the single-phase AC motors, so that in intermittent working condition.

The controller circuit consists of intermittent power supply circuit, timer and control the implementation of circuit, as shown. Component selection R1 ~ R4, R6 and R7 are selected 1/4W metal film resistors: R5 are selected 1/2W metal film resistors. Selected monolithic capacitors C1; C2 use the CBB capacitor voltage is 450V; C3 use of electrolytic capacitors voltage is 16V; C4 voltage is 25V with aluminum electrolytic capacitors. Type 1N4001 silicon rectifier diode VD1 use; VD2 ~ VD4 are selected 1N4148 silicon switching diodes. VS selection 1N4742 (1W, 12V) silicon voltage regulator diodes. LEDs use 5mm VL. UR selected 1A, 100V rectifier bridge heap. V S8050 or use C8050, 3DG8050 silicon NPN transistor. Or CC4060 CD4060 IC type used 14-bit binary counter / divider integrated circuit. 4098 K-type 12V DC relay selection. KM use 220V AC coil voltage contactors, the contact current capacity should be based on the actual load power to choose. Power supply circuit by the capacitor C2 ~ C4, resistor R3 ~ R5, rectifier bridge pile UR, Zener diode and the power indicator LED VS VL composition. Timer circuit consists of counting / divider integrated circuit IC, capacitor C1, diode VD2 ~ VD4 and resistors R1, R2, R6 composition. In which R1, R2, C1 and IC clock oscillator circuit within the circuit, the oscillation period (T) R2 and C1 by the value of the decision. Control the implementation of the circuit by the transistor V, resistor R7, diode VD1, AC contactor relays K and KM composition. AC 220V step-down voltage by C2, UR rectifier, VS regulator, R5 and C3-limiting filter, the relay K and the IC to provide 12V DC voltage, while VL lit. IC power work, the clock oscillator and the oscillation frequency count signal processing, when the time delay on time (waiting time) at the end, IC of the Q14 side (3 feet) high output, so that V conduction , K, and KM pull, the load (the controlled setting of the power) the power supply connected. At the same time, IC has started regular working hours (working movement time) are counted,

when the end of regular working hours, IC of the Q14 side goes low, so that V cut-off, K and KM release, load power; the same time IC internal counter is reset, the next time cycle. Again and again, the load at the set time intermittently energized work. Adjusted R2, C1 or change the parameters of IC's Q4 ~ Q14 output control connection, you can set the delay on-time and regular working hours. By the circuit parameters, the delay Turn-on time 3h, regular working time is 20min.

Circuit diagram

Parts:

P1 22K Linear Potentiometer (See Notes) R1 15K @ 20C n.t.c. Thermistor (See Notes) R2 100K 1/4W Resistor R3,R6 10K 1/4W Resistors R4,R5 22K 1/4W Resistors R7 100R 1/4W Resistor R8 470R 1/4W Resistor R9 33K 4W Resistor C1 10nF 63V Polyester Capacitor

D1 BZX79C18 18V 500mW Zener Diode D2 TIC106D 400V 5A SCR D3-D6 1N4007 1000V 1A Diodes Q1,Q2 BC327 45V 800mA PNP Transistors Q2 BC337 45V 800mA NPN Transistor SK1 Female Mains socket PL1 Male Mains plug & cable

Device purpose:
This circuit adopt a rather old design technique as its purpose is to vary the speed of a fan related to temperature with a minimum parts counting and avoiding the use of special-purpose ICs, often difficult to obtain.

Circuit operation:
R3-R4 and P1-R1 are wired as a Wheatstone bridge in which R3-R4 generates a fixed two-thirds-supply "reference" voltage, P1-R1 generates a temperature-sensitive "variable" voltage, and Q1 is used as a bridge balance detector. P1 is adjusted so that the "reference" and "variable" voltages are equal at a temperature just below the required trigger value, and under this condition Q1 Base and Emitter are at equal voltages and Q1 is cut off. When the R1 temperature goes above this "balance" value the P1-R1 voltage falls below the "reference" value, so Q1 becomes forward biased, pulse-charging C1. This occurs because the whole circuit is supplied by a 100Hz half-wave voltage obtained from mains supply by means of D3-D6 diode bridge without a smoothing capacitor and fixed to 18V by R9 and Zener diode D1. Therefore the 18V supply of the circuit is not true DC but has a rather trapezoidal shape. C1 provides a variable phase-delay pulse-train related to temperature and synchronous with the mains supply "zero voltage" point of each half cycle, thus producing minimal switching RFI from the SCR. Q2 and Q3 form a trigger device, generating a short pulse suitable to drive the SCR.

Notes:

The circuit is designed for 230Vac operation. If your ac mains is rated at about 115V, you can change R9 value to 15K 2W. No other changes are required.

Circuit operation can be reversed, i.e. the fan increases its speed as temperature decreases, by simply transposing R1 and P1 positions. This mode of operation is useful in controlling a hot air flux, e.g. using heaters.

Thermistor value is not critical: I tried also 10K and 22K with good results. In this circuit, if R1 and Q1 are not mounted in the same environment, the precise trigger points are subject to slight variation with changes in Q1 temperature, due to the temperature dependence of its Base-Emitter junction characteristics. This circuit is thus not suitable for use in precision applications, unless Q1 and R1 operate at equal temperatures.

he temperature / speed-increase ratio can be varied changing C1 value. The lower the C1 value the steeper the temperature / speed-increase ratio curve and vice-versa.

Parts R1 noise R2,R9 R3,R8 R4,R7 R5 R6 diode P1

List: = 560 ohm = = = = = 100K 10K 1K 470 ohm 100 ohm, 2watt, wire-wound

Q1 = 2N2907 (NTE159M) low Q2 IC1 Led1 D1,D2,D3 D4 = = = = = MJE521 (NTE184) 741, op-amp LED, red 1N4148, signal diode 1N4004, general purpose

= 100K, trimmer pot

C1 = 2.2uF, 25V, electrolytic C2 = 47uF, 25V, electrolytic

This circuit controls very accurately a fan of any size. Just adjust the associated resistors for a different type like the R6 resistor of 100 ohm, 2 watt type and you're all set. The above circuit diagram is for a small 12 volt fan, the size and type determined by the user. Temperature is sampled via the 1N4148 diodes and presented at pins 2 and 3 of the differential type 741 op-amp. R7 (10K) is used to create a voltage difference between the inverted and non-inverted input pins 2 and 3 of the 741. All signals presented at pin 2 will be inverted on the output pin 6. Obviously then, the input pins are very important. When pin 2 goes more positive than pin 3, the output pin 6 of the 741 goes high and forward biasing the base of transistor Q1, which switches on transistor Q2 and the Led and puts 12V on the output pins for the fan. R9 functions as a feedback for the 741. Only DC type fans can be used with this schematic diagram without further modifications. The temperature sensor is made up of three easily available 1N4148 signal diodes mounted in parallel. Mount them in a thin aluminum, or plastic tube (depending on your application) and silicon the end of the tube to make this temperature sensor water-proof. As an additional note, I have seen this type of temperature sensor, with the diodes either in parallel or series and either 1 or more diodes, in all sorts of laboratory equipment like hot water baths and others. The water bath temperature setting ranged from room temperature to about 100 Celsius. Keep in mind that using the 1N4148 diode as a temperature sensor is very accurate when used within the specifications of the 1N4148.

Fancontrol electronic circuit diagram

R1 15k ohm resistor NTC Thermistor- 10k ohm, sold at Radio Shack in the states. P1 10k ohm potentiometer - sets the low speed(voltage) of the fans at the cool temperature. P2 50K ohm potentiometer - sets the gain of the circuit - how fast the voltage will rise to full output when the temp is higher. TL082 a op-amp that I had handy, most any single voltage op-amp should work. The TL082 is a dual op-amp if you want more then one controller on a board. note that the power and ground connections for the op-amp are not shown on the schematic. R2 - The TL082 is a fast op-amp, needed R2 to reduce oscillation. IRF-510 A 4 amp mos-fet in a TO-220 case. Bascially as the voltage on the gate rises the mos-fet will conduct more current. note 1 there are also IRF-520 and 530 versions that will handle more current. note 2 Even at 5 watts the mos-fet will disapate some heat and will need to be heat-sinked or at least in the air flow path. the large metal part of the fet will be at drain(D) voltage level. Do not attach to case. D1, almost any diode, 1N4001 should work,it conducts back around the fan when the mos-fet turns off. As the fan continues spinning it will produce a voltage on the drain lead of the fet. D1 will limit that voltage. Adjustment, easiest if you have a voltmeter but can be done without. Get the thermistor at room temp. Adjust P1 for the low speed that you want your fans to run at. Heat the thermistor to the high temp you want the fans at full speed. ( I stuck it under my tongue) Adjust P2 until the fans are at full speed( with voltmeter the highest voltage you can get) then adjust P2 until the speed/voltage just begins to drop off. Most fan specs that I have seen show a low voltage limit of around 7 volts. Some of the smaller 80mm fans have a lower limit of 8 volts. If you set the low voltage to low the fans may stall until the thermistor heats up enough. Let me know if you build this circuit and how it works for you. corrected, single voltage op-amps should be used, OP07 is a dual voltage.
. MJE1100 1243. MJE1101 1244. MJE1102 1245. MJE1103 1246. MJE2100

1247. MJE2101 1248. MJE2102 1249. MJE2103 1250. MJE521 1251. MJE5740 1252. MJE5742 1253. MJE800 1254. MJE800T 1255. MJE801 1256. MJE801T 1257. MJE802 1258. MJE802T 1259. MJE803 1260. MJE803T

50K Thermistor Output Ta

Thermistors

THERMal resISTORS
Thermistors are special solid temperature sensors that behave like temperature-sensitive electrical resistors. No surprise then that their name is a contraction of "thermal" and "resistor". There are basically two broad types, NTC-Negative Temperature Coefficient, used mostly in temperature sensing and PTC-Positive Temperature Coefficient, used mostly in electric current control. There's even more history of the name and development of thermistors and facts about some key NTC parameters at the Kele Electronics website, just be prepared for some strong opinions about one brand of thermistor. They are mostly very small bits of special material that exhibit more than just temperature sensitivity. They are highly-sensitive and have very reproducible resistance Vs. temperature properties. During the last 60 years or so, only ceramic materials (a mix of different metal oxides) was employed for production of NTC thermistors. In 2003, AdSem, Inc. (Palo Alto, CA) developed and started manufacturing of Si and Ge high temperature NTC thermistors with better performance than any ceramic NTC thermistors. Thermistors, since they can be very small, are used inside many other devices as temperature sensing and correction devices as well as in specialty temperature sensing probes for commerce, science and industry. Some of those new-fangled digital medical thermometers that get stuck in one's mouth by a nurse with an electronic display in her other hand are based on thermistor sensors. They are probably inside your cell phone, automobile, stereo and television, too, but you'd never know it unless you were an engineer or visited here. Thermistors typically work over a relatively small temperature range, compared to other temperature sensors, and can be very accurate and precise within that range, although not all are.

Thermistor Terminology

A glossary slightly modified from that given in a US government publication: MIL-PRF23648D. Note that the term being described is in bold typeface. A thermistor is a thermally sensitive resistor that exhibits a change in electrical resistance with a change in its temperature. The resistance is measured by passing a small, measured direct current (dc) through it and measuring the voltage drop produced. The standard reference temperature is the thermistor body temperature at which nominal zero-power resistance is specified, usually 25C. The zero-power resistance is the dc resistance value of a thermistor measured at a specified temperature with a power dissipation by the thermistor low enough that any

further decrease in power will result in not more than 0.1 percent (or 1/10 of the specified measurement tolerance, whichever is smaller) change in resistance. The resistance ratio characteristic identifies the ratio of the zero-power resistance of a thermistor measured at 25C to that resistance measured at 125C. The zero-power temperature coefficient of resistance is the ratio at a specified temperature (T), of the rate of change of zero-power resistance with temperature to the zero-power resistance of the thermistor. A NTC thermistor is one in which the zero-power resistance decreases with an increase in temperature. A PTC thermistor is one in which the zero-power resistance increases with an increase in temperature. The maximum operating temperature is the maximum body temperature at which the thermistor will operate for an extended period of time with acceptable stability of its characteristics. This temperature is the result of internal or external heating, or both, and should not exceed the maximum value specified. . The maximum power rating of a thermistor is the maximum power which a thermistor will dissipate for an extended period of time with acceptable stability of its characteristics. The dissipation constant is the ratio, (in milliwatts per degree C) at a specified ambient temperature, of a change in power dissipation in a thermistor to the resultant body temperature change. The thermal time constant of a thermistor is the time required for a thermistor to change 63.2 percent of the total difference between its initial and final body temperature when subjected to a step function The resistance-temperature characteristic of a thermistor is the relationship between the zero-power resistance of a thermistor and its body temperature. The temperature-wattage characteristic of a thermistor is the relationship at a specified ambient temperature between the thermistor temperature and the applied steady state wattage. The current-time characteristic of a thermistor is the relationship at a specified ambient temperature between the current through a thermistor and time, upon application or interruption of voltage to it. The stability of a thermistor is the ability of a thermistor to retain specified characteristics after being subjected to designated environmental or electrical test conditions. Thanks for visiting; there's more info at the links highlighted below.